AEV Gladiator Rubicon

[EL TATE]

Just thought but does Tate’s new icon company do shocks that are replicas of the falcon shock. Better look

https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/accessory/17706/icon%2Daccessories%2D20%2Dup%2Djt%2D15%2Drear%2D25%2Dvs%2Dpb%2Dcdev%2Dpair/

Tate?

I may have missed something


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They are good, but only for 2.5" lift. They have nothing for the 3.5" lift, and Clayton told me their lift was really 4".

Yes, Icon are good, but, no, they do not fit.

concurred

[Flyin6]

Just completed the first fuel consumption check post-gear change, and guess what?

Tate was correct. The motor was laboring with the 4.56 gears and never or seldom saw the 8th gear and locked converter and it usually returned 16.14. But this tank which covered 256 miles returned an average of 17.53 mpg. That's a solid almost 1.5 mpg increase.

The gear change made sense. Soon now after I change the fluid I will do some acceleration checks, but for now, I am still keeping the speed down to no more than 65mph. That is actually about how I drove it before!

Parts are trickling in. I am in receipt of the Adams driveshaft so far.

[EL TATE]

Right on!

[Flyin6]

Look what just showed up:

That would be a complete Clayton Off Road Overlanding suspension system. Essentially nothing stock will remain after the installation. The big box contains some wild-looking Falcon 3.3 adjustable shocks and rounding it all out is the new Adams 1350 Double Cardan driveshaft that will allow the front to droop to the max, far more than stock or AEV.

[Flyin6]

Almost ready to continue the modifications

I've been doing a minor garage makeover since it's getting old and cluttered in there, and I'm now looking at a whole new host of modifications on this Jeep.

In the meantime I am busy stacking up the boxes

Just added this to the growing pile:

[Flyin6]

The beauty of that exhaust is that it creates a nice mellow tone. It does not make any extra horsepower, but it will shave 40 pounds off the vehicle, and that's huge!

[JR]

Loosing weight is HP, long as not added back on elsewhere.

Same on my Tahoe. Better sound, muffler is 1/3 the size.

[Flyin6]

Loosing weight is HP, long as not added back on elsewhere.

Same on my Tahoe. Better sound, muffler is 1/3 the size.

Yea, as I outlined way back near the beginning of the thread, I plan to agressively lose weight all over the Jeep. This was easy and allows me to hear where the engine is in the RPM band...Hard to hear now.
Other things:
Remove 70% of the rear seat.
Switch to a lithium Ion primary battery
Aluminum rear bumper
Possibly aluminum stubby front bumper
and...I've lost over 10 pounds the past two weeks!

On the negative side:
I think the clayton suspension I will be adding shortly weighs more than the stock pieces

[Bob Smith]

“On the negative side:
I think the clayton suspension I will be adding shortly weighs more than the stock pieces”



Yes but it will allow much more movement before something breaks

[JR]

Lithium Ion and poly go poof. Lithium Lifo do not.

[Flyin6]

Lithium Ion and poly go poof. Lithium Lifo do not.

Lithium Ion and poly go poof. Lithium Lifo do not.

It's made of the safe chemistry structure

[Flyin6]

Today I changed the rear diff fluid following the break-in of the new Yukon 5.13 gears.

There was the normal metallic "Scheen" from the gears wearing in, but nothing surprising.

I used Lucas 85W-140 for the refill. I also installed one of Yukon's thick ductile iron differential covers. I reused the stock gasket which is a multi-use rubber embossed steel core type. Randy's supplied allen headed hardware which I torqued into place. I understand the Yukon covers allow more fluid to be added than is normal for a factory configuration.

[Flyin6]

The only critical comment I will make is in regard to the fill plug placement.

It is positioned EXACTLY beneath a close-fitting rear sway bar. TO properly install, you really need to pull the rear sway bar as I ended up doing. Otherwise, it's a crap shoot whether or not you can even get the plug started into its threads.

[Flyin6]

Time to bolt on an exhaust.

Here is that MBRP exhaust ai spoke about a few posts back.

It's the cheapo, aluminized system. I decided this was plenty good enough and didn't want to bolt on anything expensive in case I later opt for a hemi conversion.

[Flyin6]

Tiny muffler, hugh?

The stock system comes off easily in about 5 minutes.

Since I will never reuse it, I sawed it in half above the rear axle to make removal super easy.

Here's the old/heavy system.

[Flyin6]

I don't think this cat-back system adds any additional power, but it does cut the weight. That old system was 45 lbs or better, and I'll bet the new system was around 15 lbs. or a tiny bit more.

Here it is going back on starting at the front.

[Flyin6]

You essentially just slip-fit the successive parts together. Every other part mates up with a factory hanger. Those are easily removed from the frame, so you just slide on the pipe, line up the holes in the mount and reinstall the mount, It's super easy.

Another positive about this system is how it tucks up well inside the frame. The factory system hangs much lower and below the frame rails. This MBRP is way better than the earlier setup

[Flyin6]

And the exit is nicely tucked away much higher.

It's simple, cost-effective, easy to install and it makes for a pretty quiet mellow tone. I'm happy!

[Atkinsmatt]

Looks good too.

[Flyin6]

Looks good too.

Thanks, and I agree.

The last tank of gas was much different only scoring 14.6 mpg. I am trying different driving styles so I can establish planning numbers. This new exhaust should put me to the high 30's mpg, but if it doesn't, well, I'll just continue to test. Currently, I changed up the highway driving to a 75mph cruise. The trip computer is showing 15.7 at the moment.

[JR]

Loved how my MBRP went in also. They make nice stuff.

Cool you can keep the spare down there too. They don't fall off and need to get "bought back".

[Flyin6]

Loved how my MBRP went in also. They make nice stuff.

Cool you can keep the spare down there too. They don't fall off and need to get "bought back".

I HOPE it doesn't fall off!

[Flyin6]

OK, the time has arrived to install the Clayton suspension.

To refresh your memories, I have selected the Clayton 3.5" overland suspension system that replaces just about everything that flexes and I will be running the Falcon series 3.3 adjustable shocks.

Oh, the tailgate got its identifying decal. Found that one while looking for tax documents yesterday. It was still good, so today, it is proudly displayed.

I started by measuring the height from the top of the aluminum wheel to the bottom of the fender lip and from the ground to the fender lip. I can gage overall height changes as well as changes in clearance before and after.

[Flyin6]

Here are the cool parts for the rear suspension which I will tackle first. Clayton makes some super high-quality stuff. They build longevity into their suspensions. These parts will last as long as I care to adventure the JT.

For the record, I am starting out with the Falcon rear shocks set to firm, position 4 on the big selector, and to the mildest setting within that range on the small micro adjustment inner knob.

[Flyin6]

I needed the new/longer brake lines very quickly once the parts started coming off and going on

The bump stops will work with these new extensions for the smash pad. Just look at how well this stuff is built!

[Flyin6]

I suppose aside from following the instructions line by line, individual technique oftentimes intervenes. That is certainly the case with me. Having watched several install vids, once I jacked it up, I started by loosening all the control arm bolts and then removed the Bilstein's.

Next, I set the control arms to the specified length which Clayton provides. I used a 1/2" bolt in the bushings to make sure either side was identical lengths.

[Flyin6]

After setting my valving setting, and checking hardware which I always treat to a brushing with grease, I hung the rear shocks

[Flyin6]

Then I removed the lower control arms and fitted the new Clayton pieces into the factory mounts with a film of grease. I did that first to the lower arms, then to the upper control arms too.

Here is a comparo between the stockers and the Clayton pieces which are longer

[Flyin6]

In the previous picture, I had the Claytons installed backward, so I had to swap ends to place the rod end part up and forward into the frame pocket.

At this point with everything really hanging, I removed the factory-stretched brake lines and installed the new and longer Clayton lines.

[Flyin6]

Now this is interesting. The silver spring is the AEV 2.5" spring and the black one is the Clayton 3.5". They appear to be the same height. But if you look carefully the Clayton unit has several different and tighter primary wraps which equate to the rate of the spring. The AEV springs are all bunched at the top and that will all collapse as soon as it gets any load at all but will keep the spring seated as the suspension flexes. But since AEV really just uses the factory suspension it will not droop all that much. That IS NOT the case with Clayton. There will be a lot more travel in this new suspension.

[JR]

Nice looking stuff. Bet the "stock" parts will fetch a good price from someone with a really stock J.

[Flyin6]

I shoved both new springs into the saddles and perches and called it a night. I'll get after it tomorrow.

[Flyin6]

Nice looking stuff. Bet the "stock" parts will fetch a good price from someone with a really stock J.

I won't charge much, but I'll bet you're right!

[Flyin6]

Next, I installed the protective hard plastic shrouds onto the Falcon shocks. There are integral to the shock and mount securely to a "T"-shaped lug on the lower mount. There was a lot of thought that went into these shocks. Not sure if there are any better out there?

[Flyin6]

I then bolted them up to their lower mounts. No bolts have been tightened yet. Everything is loose for the time being.

There is a warning that accompanies the shocks which states the user MUST install longer brake lines because these shocks allow the axle to droop out further than it did in the past

[Flyin6]

Next, I installed the rear axle bump stops backward! Yup tightened them all down and went on to the next step and then I read the directions.

Ya

So, I removed them and turned them both around so they would actually work when things got tight in there.

[Flyin6]

Shows the wrong direction to bolt these in!

Ouch

I snapped a shot of the axle build tag that had been covered by the AEV bump stop

[Flyin6]

Falcon supplies a cool metal self-adhesive tag that I installed inside my driver's door

[Flyin6]

The directions spoke of cutting down the supplied threaded rods to properly align the sway bar.

I fitted either end to full depth and, by golly, it seemed to come out to be about the correct direction. I know the sway bar ends should be just a litle up from parallel to the ground, and that is about where the bar rests.

[Flyin6]

Next, I fitted the rear track bar after setting its initial length to a nominal 34". That measurement is supposed to center the axle side to side at a lift height of 3.5"

I cannot comment on that just yet, but I can say the attention to detail given to this bar as illustrated in the photos is striking! No one else puts a bend in the bar to clear the stock location spare tire, and in fact, many people find it impossible to fit a 37" spare against a stock-like straight bar. This one is both bent and twisted to clear everything and work in its arc of travel without touching anything. Well done Clayton!

[stlaser]

Looks good 

[Flyin6]

It took some time, but I am finally happee with the axle location and driveshaft angle.

I am not so good with that strange-looking joint on that odd-looking driveshaft. I am thinking a standard one-piece double-cardan shaft with 1350 joints would be better.

[Flyin6]

I am not rushing anything on this install so today my only goal was to finish the rear install, and I was able to get to that point.

[Flyin6]

I greased all bolts, all the bushings, and mating surfaces, my cheek, and forearm.

It shows up as a shiny spot in some photos.

[Flyin6]

I bolted on the wheels after switching them side to side, sort of a cheapo rotation, then put it down on the ground.

I checked it against my pre-install measurements and I am showing 5/8" to 1.24" additional height clearance. Those are preliminary measurements that will be retaken once I finish the front and test drive it.

[Flyin6]

Front end parts set up for tomorrow...

[JR]

Dang, about as much work as a regular ifs lift.

[Flyin6]

Dang, about as much work as a regular ifs lift.

Having done both several times, this one is not difficult, but it does take some work. If I had that lift I wanted...The one that turned into a 2.02-carat diamond...that one. Well, if I had that lift the job would be infinitely easier.

It's like a good core workout as one constantly is lying down on the creeper, then balancing while getting back up. In the old lemons into lemonade adage, I just look at it as some abdominal conditioning. And wouldn't you know it, just before I get busy doing hard work farmside.

[Flyin6]

Got started on the front suspension today

All jacked up and ready to start shedding parts:

[Flyin6]

And the shedding begins. the shocks, control arm bolts, track bar, and a myriad of other fasteners are all loosened. After loosening the bolts, I remove both bars from one side and get the Clayton bars installed on one end. Then I loosen a control arm on the opposite side and quickly shove in the new bars, which tend to hold the axle more or less in one place.