Author Topic: Mike's AR-10 Build (Read 40224 times)

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #150 on:** June 21, 2017, 06:51:08 AM »

So, the only place I can think to stake the buffer tube, would be around the shoulder edge where it meets the back of the receiver as if "it" we're the castle nut; how many places do you think I need to smack it with a center punch? Which direction, down and towards the receiver?

Atkinsmatt · « **Reply #151 on:** June 21, 2017, 09:01:38 AM »

very nice. Hope you get that catch sorted out. Hate to have to take a dremmel to a new piece but if that is what it takes.

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #152 on:** June 21, 2017, 12:22:13 PM »

So sitting here struggling to remove this stuck bolt-catch detent; figure that is what's preventing the catcher from traveling high enough to stop the bolt. Have a replacement for it, so thinking of getting after it with a tiny dremel jewelers drill to get a grip on it. Gonna let the PB Blast soak awhile. Been tapping on it with a countersink punch on a slight angle outward trying to move/loosen it too. Bet there's no spring behind it!

Solution :

Drilling with a tiny jewelers bit in a dremel allowed me to insert an old fashioned compass tip and tap it out with a hammer. Spring apparently was weak along with the jammed button, because when I replaced both with my spares, the bolt catch works as it should with solid engagement!

Now end of the month I get some extra $, so it's off to the range as soon as I procure the scope and mount!

(Bottom photo is the offending Bolt Catch button (removed) with drilled hole & my thumb for scale)

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #153 on:** June 23, 2017, 09:15:52 AM »

Two scopes I'm really interested in; hoping that AIM Surplus gets the last one back in stock.

http://www.customar15.net/product/vortex-viper-pst-2-5-10x32-ffp-ebr-1-moa/

https://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XVOPST416F1A&name=Vortex+PST+4-16x50+FFP+Riflescope+EBR-1+(MOA)+Reticle%2f+30mm+Tube&groupid=7903

I also like the 1x8 Strike Eagle that Bobby has suggested, but not thrilled about having to crank the scope to high power to be accurate for wind/drop compensation with the Second Focal Plane scopes.

Thoughts, or suggestion on a brand/model I'm not looking at?

Bear9350 · « **Reply #154 on:** June 23, 2017, 10:00:51 AM »

You might look into the Burris XTR lineup. I am happy with the 5-25 I put on my 308 and many of the guys on the shooting forums I frequent recommend Burris over Vortex.

JR · « **Reply #155 on:** June 23, 2017, 10:54:56 AM »

I like the 50mm vs the 32. Get all the light you can. Both do have the lite CH.

Can you look at either?

BobbyB · « **Reply #156 on:** June 26, 2017, 06:19:21 PM »

2.5-10x is in stock, that will work for you.

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #157 on:** June 26, 2017, 06:43:57 PM »

Quote from: BobbyB on June 26, 2017, 06:19:21 PM

2.5-10x is in stock, that will work for you.

I like it, just waiting for the money truck to stop by end of the month!

BobbyB · « **Reply #158 on:** June 26, 2017, 10:01:18 PM »

Quote from: cudakidd53 on June 26, 2017, 06:43:57 PM

I like it, just waiting for the money truck to stop by end of the month!

That's 4 days, 96 hrs and change.... well less but you get my point.

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #159 on:** June 29, 2017, 04:26:42 PM »

Well, the scope fairy came today! Actually stopped into the local gun range and store to look at and handle the scope I was thinking of topping of my AR 10 with. Low and behold, they had a used one (Vortex) in 2.5 X 10 with tactical turrets & illuminated reticle. It's second focal plane, so that was a bummer, but being in great condition and selling for $375, I jumped on it! Screwed up and forget to suspend the fraud alert on the debit card and got busted by the "warden" who took exception to the purchase without clearance from the tower!

Additionally purchased lens covers and a Vortex off-set mount, as the one that was left attached by the previous owner wasn't up to par for my liking. With state political excise fees and extras, total amount was $550.

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #160 on:** June 29, 2017, 04:35:12 PM »

Here's my "Redneck Suburbanite" method to plumb my reticle after squaring the top rail and my solution to not having a gun vice! Used yellow construction cord hanging from the overhead garage door with a plumb bob attached for my vertical reference! Love slide clamps!

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #161 on:** June 29, 2017, 04:43:14 PM »

Finally completed and awaiting test firing and sight in! Will probably add a bipod at some point, and toying with the idea of painting the skull with rattle cans - didn't send away for Cerekote to avoid going through a dealer to "handle" the transaction.

BobbyB · « **Reply #162 on:** June 29, 2017, 09:01:59 PM »

Ain't nothing wrong with a spray paint job. Don't look right or how you wanted it... paint over it.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #163 on:** June 29, 2017, 09:06:15 PM »

Step 1 to break in a new AR.

throw it on the ground and scratch it all up

Step 2

rattle can a cammo job

Step 3

run 1000 rounds through it...

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #164 on:** June 29, 2017, 10:18:23 PM »

Charles- how would you sight in? 30/200 dead on, or get it on paper x" high at 50, then x" high at 100 and tune dead on at 200?

Planned on getting on paper/groups using PPU M80 147g and then tuning at distance using Federal GMM 168g and 175g.

Could you run ballistic numbers for those 3 rounds for me?

Hints and pointers are welcome - should I clean the barrel after each group to break it in properly?

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #165 on:** June 30, 2017, 06:11:38 AM »

I'll happily run some numbers for you. What was the barrel length again? It may be week after next since I'm about to check out for a week and the software is on my desktop computer.

I always Zero at a 100 and dial from there.

I'd consult your barrel mfg for their recommendations but iirc my builder said 5 slow rounds letting the barrel cool between rounds and then a patch of sweets 7.62 always from chamber to muzzle 10 times until clean. Three times of that routine and then I clean about every 50 rounds.

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cudakidd53 · « **Reply #166 on:** June 30, 2017, 09:35:45 AM »

Thanks Charles! Barrel length is 16"

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #167 on:** July 03, 2017, 07:54:48 AM »

So now that I've got the rifle topped off with a quality scope: http://www.vortexoptics.com/product/vortex-viper-pst-2-5-10x44-riflescope-with-ebr-1-moa-reticle [Don, check it out! It'd be sweet atop your M14]

I need some suggestions for sources to learn how best to use a precision scope with a tactical reticle (MOA) such as a book, internet etc. Possibly some "Cliff Notes" style suggestions from those of you experienced in such endeavors. Wanting to be able to range with it, calculate (or dial) hold over for shots past 200 yrds, and read and adjust for wind drift or a moving target.

Looking to do this so that the coming "slingin' of lead" is done with purpose and I'm able to accelerate the learning curve beyond my current (limited) knowledge base of sighting in and then "leaving it alone" aside from the rare and occasional use of "Kentucky Windage" to get it in the neighborhood.

I can get "dope tables" made by Vortex, that slide into the inside of the lens cap so I know that'll help tremendously, once I know how best to use and understand "what" information will be most useful.

The scope booklet has some basic information, along with "subtensions" of the reticle......not sure how I'd use .15 moa (thickness of the reticle hair) in calculation of things?

So, there lies my knowledge gap that I'm hoping you all can help fill it in. I'm also aware that there's no substitute for actually being behind the scope "doing it"......just want to maximize the efficiency of that time!

cruizng · « **Reply #168 on:** July 03, 2017, 11:32:22 AM »

Well I always need pictures and crayons to help me so this video was actually pretty good for me when I was looking for a scope.

https://youtu.be/VA2PZBD5Tjg

Looks like your scope is 1/4 clicks per MOA so it should be pretty relevant.

Sling some lead. Wait.. in IL can you still use lead? OR do you need to use unobtaium?

Bear9350 · « **Reply #169 on:** July 03, 2017, 12:09:05 PM »

It's all geometry. Moa stands for minute of angle. In a circle there is 360 degrees and each degree can be divided into 60 minutes. At 100 yards 1 minute comes out to 1.047 inches. So if you draw a triangle with a really long leg equal to 100 yards and a really short leg of 1.047 inches the corresponding acute angle would be 1 minute. Generally 1.047 is rounded to 1. This is fine unless you are making large adjustments.

If you push out to 200 yards and make the same 1 minute adjustment your short leg will be about 2. You can use the 1 to 100 yard ratio to determine your adjustment at any yardage. You can use the same adjustment backwards to determine the amount of minutes adjustment needed to change your point of impact at a known distance. 1 click is a 1/4 moa, so 4 clicks is 1 moa of adjustment.

Bear9350 · « **Reply #170 on:** July 03, 2017, 12:23:58 PM »

Using your reticle to range is a similar concept in reverse. You will need to know the size of what ever object you are ranging to. So say you know you are looking at an object through your scope. You know the size of the object and how many minutes tall it appears. Using the same triangle/ ratio you can determine the long leg of the triangle to determine the range. Remember the second focal plane scope will only be accurate on the highest power for ranging and hold overs.

KensAuto · « **Reply #171 on:** July 03, 2017, 05:38:45 PM »

Hey Bear, this is 'Merica...how 'bout some dang English!

Seriously, I've never used the scope to judge distance...too much work for my little brain. It's sooo much easier to use a good range finder. If Mike doesn't have a mil dot for size reference, and just trying to calculate with 1/4 moa lines, or spacing between lines, he might need a calculator in the field!

Bear9350 · « **Reply #172 on:** July 03, 2017, 07:01:47 PM »

He asked. He can make some tables up to reference but its always could to understand the reasonings for it. Looking at his reticle type I would think he should be able to use it on high power to range out a ways and get a decent estimate.

KensAuto · « **Reply #173 on:** July 03, 2017, 07:15:50 PM »

I agree...just couldn't refrain from giving you a hard time about being smart, at the same time giving myself credit for being an idiot. (redneck reasoning 101)

Bear9350 · « **Reply #174 on:** July 03, 2017, 07:21:29 PM »

If you are going to be cranking on the turrets or doing holdovers to take shots you need to make sure you got your scope on level. Simple way to test it is a tall target test. At the bottom of taller target place an aim point. Draw a vertical line to the top of the target using a level. With your scope zeroed place a group on your aim point. Crank the turrets up nearly the length of your target. Using the same aim point shoot a second group. The second group should be on the line. You can then measure the distance between your to groups to then determine how accurate your turrets are.

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #175 on:** July 03, 2017, 08:27:34 PM »

Thanks Bear - good info and ideas

Bear9350 · « **Reply #176 on:** July 03, 2017, 08:41:33 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on July 03, 2017, 07:15:50 PM

I agree...just couldn't refrain from giving you a hard time about being smart, at the same time giving myself credit for being an idiot. (redneck reasoning 101)

Math isn't supposed to be wrote out in words. It always makes it look a lot more confusing.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #177 on:** July 03, 2017, 10:17:13 PM »

I don't do MOA. I only do MIL. What ever system you choose make sure that all your weapons systems are the same. Only one system to learn. Computers can give you trajectory tables but only real world shooting can show you the real dope. Get a log book and keep detailed meticulous records. Temp humidity wind ammo distance all factor into your dope book. Shoot a lot and keep records

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cudakidd53 · « **Reply #178 on:** July 07, 2017, 08:06:19 PM »

This book came yesterday- easy read so far and good information and explainations. http://vortexoptics.com/product/the-ultimate-optics-guide-to-rifle-shooting

Finished odds and ends like installing a Magpul angled foregrip, some grip panels on the handguard and a quick throw lever on the magnification ring of the scope as its pretty stiff.

I then ran a patch down the barrel to dry it in preparation for sight-in.... holy cats was it dirty! Patch came out BLACK and I ended up braking out the entire cleaning kit to take care of it. The only thing I can figure out is it was manufacturing grime? Being the first time I've put one together instead of purchasing a completed rifle, it never dawned on me to fully clean the barrel - really glad I did since the amount of grime wouldn't have done barrel break-in any good and seems to me like it might have ruined the sub MOA accuracy potential of it. Breach was crud laden as well- NOW I'm starting with a clean, unfired rifle.

Question: Will a 6" - 9" bipod be high enough for shooting prone - thoughts?

JR · « **Reply #179 on:** July 07, 2017, 08:16:58 PM »

I like the quick throw ring, need to look into that.

20rd on the ar keeps it flush with the grip so if the grip clears you should be good.

Anyone tried the new 25rd Magpul's?

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #180 on:** July 20, 2017, 04:42:45 PM »

Barrel Break-in/Sight-in Day:

After mounting scope, I visually bore sighted it off the kitchen table using a spot on the neighbors house for a point of aim. So first couple of shots at 25yrds, I expected on the paper, but not this close!

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #181 on:** July 20, 2017, 04:47:44 PM »

First snag, bolt wasn't moving at all....? Turns out that the adjustable gas block was tightened down all the way, so we opened it a turn and shot some more.

JR · « **Reply #182 on:** July 20, 2017, 04:57:56 PM »

Very nice for a new barrel.

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #183 on:** July 20, 2017, 04:59:11 PM »

So, with another 1 1/2 turns opening the gas block, its cycling correctly AND it doesn't kick hardly at all! These are the final 5 shots before moving to the 100 yrd. range. This was with M80 147g PPU ammo

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #184 on:** July 20, 2017, 05:17:55 PM »

So, all previous images were of break-in rounds WITHOUT any adjustment to the scope. The next 5 rounds were about 9" high and somewhat right ~3", but I figured most of that was me. So, after another cleaning (did that every 5 rounds) I brought it down 32 clicks (8 MOA) and was close. Finished breaking in with M80 rounds and cleaned it for a final time and switched to Federal Gold Medal Match 175g. Shot 3 which were a little high still, corrected 1/2" down and shot the remaining without "waiting" between shots for the barrel to cool! WAY more enjoyable!

Sammconn · « **Reply #185 on:** July 20, 2017, 05:51:14 PM »

Nice, glad to hear you've got it running!

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #186 on:** July 20, 2017, 06:09:48 PM »

Love .30 holes

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KensAuto · « **Reply #187 on:** July 20, 2017, 06:55:44 PM »

Heck Ya!!

Nate · « **Reply #188 on:** July 20, 2017, 08:20:21 PM »

so just a recommendation for yah mike, and others if they want it.....

in future sight adjustments. say your doing groups of three (it makes it easier to keep track of on the target) after every three rounds, triangulate (with a sharpie)your three shots and place a 1, 2, 3, 4, etc to correspond with which shot group it was. you should not make any adjustments until you have had at least 3 shot groups (9 rounds). by doing this, you will be able to get a better understanding of what your gun/sight is doing as well as if you are following the 4 basic fundamentals of marksmanship (steady position, aiming, breath control and trigger squeeze).

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #189 on:** July 20, 2017, 09:50:04 PM »

Good suggestion Nate, did similar with the first large target at 100yrd. marking through each hole, changing the O'clock of the mark for each group. Didn't show that target as it didn't photograph well. I've got a video of me shooting; it shows how little recoil there is. I'll send it to you Nate, maybe you can figure how to post it. I tried but got a malfunctioning link so I deleted it.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #190 on:** July 20, 2017, 09:52:33 PM »

Also probably a good idea to shoot the box

http://www.hipointfirearmsforums.com/How-to-Box-Track-a-Scope.html

Nate · « **Reply #191 on:** July 20, 2017, 10:57:31 PM »

here yah go mike.

https://youtu.be/2fQARZdRd-Y

Thanks Nate! This short video shows how little it kicks and was right after we got the gas block functioning properly; hence the look for ejected brass.

Bear9350 · « **Reply #192 on:** September 13, 2017, 01:35:44 PM »

Would you mind sharing what you have spent on this build? I'm thinking about doing a similar build. Only difference is I am thinking about 6.5CM instead of .308.

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #193 on:** September 13, 2017, 08:49:17 PM »

I will not put that down in writing as my HH6 thinks the cost of the used scope is the price

I will say that it's about as much as my wife thinks I spent less, than the Georgia Precision AR10. Mine has a Giesselle 2 stage trigger which is an add-on at GA Precision last I looked. That, the muzzle break / flash suppressor and the Heavy Buffer and spring are KEY to how managed recoil and recovery are. Barrel selection is a factor that I have no read on yet as I'm certain it's better than my skills are at this point.

JR · « **Reply #194 on:** September 13, 2017, 09:01:04 PM »

Hope mine turns out as good.

stlaser · « **Reply #195 on:** September 13, 2017, 11:06:06 PM »

Quote from: cudakidd53 on September 13, 2017, 08:49:17 PM

I will not put that down in writing as my HH6 thinks the cost of the used scope is the price

This reminds me of building trucks, someone would come over (in front of HH6 no less

) and ask how much I had in the build!

I never kept receipts or a build total for a reason..........

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #196 on:** September 14, 2017, 09:57:20 AM »

Here's a link Bear! Close to mine, with better barrel possibly; some features I have are additional costs for GA Precision version. Mine's about that all in w/ scope and all "upgrades" that GAP would charge for their stock model.

http://www.gaprecision.net/ga-precision-2016-custom-rifles/ga-precision-gap-10-g2.html

Bear9350 · « **Reply #197 on:** September 14, 2017, 11:01:17 AM »

Ok, that gives me a good idea of where you were at. I'm guessing your gun without scope is close to where I would like my budget to be for it.

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #198 on:** March 04, 2019, 03:08:45 PM »

So, after my brother visited yesterday to re-hook the plumbing the counter guys screwed up, I showed him this weapon and came up with a name for it after he left based upon the gun that shall not be mentioned....."Voldemorte" (Harry Potter reference) - LOL!

BobbyB · « **Reply #199 on:** March 06, 2019, 08:30:18 PM »

How's it been shooting? Decide to change anything up on it after spending sometime behind the trigger?