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why 15" instead of 16"...? if I remember correctly, there is only one manufacture that makes 15" load range E tires and they want an arm and a leg for 1?
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
guess things have come along a bit since I last owned a trailer with 15" tires
5k jack seems a little light..I would go with at least an 8k. If you ever have to unload from your truck with something heavy on the trailer, and you haven't kept the screw oiled (like most people), you'll apreciate it. Just my opinion bud.
Looking good. Little wire wheel burn for chief...That is a lot of gap in the hitch. Hope the washer is a solution. Definitely be nice to have it tight.
Do the wheels have a PSI rating stamped on them? "D" tires at 65lbs should be fine but if you upgrade to the E's at 80lbs PSI the wheels might object at some point if they aren't rated high enough. It is good however to have the extra weight reserve the E's will give you.
It's not as high quality as some of the custom welding tables on here but it gets the job done. At one point in its life it had a nice oak veneer top. That was long ago charred off. You just got to make sure you lock the legs out square before you drop to much weight on it.
I just got a new 24Ft equipment trailer a couple months ago. I went with 82" but the fenders are removable to give me extra width for loading if I need it.
Looking good Bear. Nice progress. Are you going to gusset the angles where you jogged in for the axle width?
Jogging the main frame rails in doesn't worry you at all? I realize it's not that heavy duty of a trailer but the way a trailer flexes from the hitch to the rear the main frame rails can move. A simple explanation is if you have ever looked at an aluminum flat deck semi trailer. They have a ton of camber built in and unloaded almost frown front to rear. Load them down fully & they are almost straight. My concern is that you have two weld joints each side that will not flex. So what may happen over the long term are at first stress cracks and then the steel to start tearing. Probably wouldn't happen all at once. It will take time & stress to kill it. We used to tear the front a-frame from the front of our bumper pull deck over steel hauling trailers. They would always fatigue right where the a-frame hitch came out from under front of the deck. I fixed & reinforced many, they all survived a long life after the fix. So with all that stated I would be keeping an eye on that area from time to time. I also wouldn't over gusset it from the start myself. I would run it & see how the metal fatigues if at all then address it as needed. This way you are not adding extra weight where it's not needed. Just my 2 cents.
Dovetail, here's an idea no one has mentioned. I built an 18' equipment trailer once with torsion axles & pintle hitch. I used an extra hd jack & it had a 4' dovetail. I dislike ramps immensely, so the way I had it setup it didn't need ramps. Jack was heavy enough to lift front of trailer & back of truck. Could drive just about anything up on it. With a 4' dovetail the the rear angle wasn't steep. Just a thought. I also agree I don't like the 18"-24" dovetails for what it's worth.
It takes what, 2 minutes to set a couple ramps? Jeez you're getting lazy Shawn.I also find dovetails useless, unless you're running 35s for tires. LolSent from a spaceship