Author Topic: M715.9 (Read 146700 times)

JR · « **Reply #350 on:** May 04, 2016, 07:17:19 PM »

Very clean looking steering there, nice job.

I know you already did the cluster but what about the speedo, tach and say oil in one line on top, with 5 across the bottom?

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #351 on:** May 04, 2016, 07:30:00 PM »

honestly, it came down to what gauges (application) came in what sweep style (full or half).
the top row, all full sweep. and moving from most to least important. bottom, half sweeps and (arguably) most to least important. and all 3 'temp' gauges are all the way to the right. it was mostly design/aesthetics then functionality.. and what needed to be seen first I suppose.

but the main reason they are split is bc of gauge availability/application

Flyin6 · « **Reply #352 on:** May 04, 2016, 10:05:32 PM »

Really nice work!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #353 on:** May 04, 2016, 11:01:53 PM »

thank ya sir. hoping to have it cut down to size, cleaned up on the sides and painted.

im thinking of putting a a 4x4 indicator light to the left of the speedo. any good ideas..? don't want anything too big. something subtle.

JR · « **Reply #354 on:** May 05, 2016, 12:48:19 AM »

Do a little search on ebay. I find so much there it is crazy.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #355 on:** May 05, 2016, 09:05:17 PM »

gauge cluster cut down to size/all cleaned up

thinking of just leaving it this color/finish and seal it with some satin clear. it has a cool patena on it. the edges are just about as straight as i could make them. a few hours with a file, 320 sand paper on a durablock and some fine steel wool almost make it look lazer cut! hahah

JR · « **Reply #356 on:** May 05, 2016, 09:13:56 PM »

Nice work, looks so uncluttered with the bezels removed.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #357 on:** May 05, 2016, 09:21:49 PM »

Quote from: JR on May 05, 2016, 09:13:56 PM

Nice work, looks so uncluttered with the bezels removed.

yea. it does look fairly seperated. I was trying to working within a defined space. if I could have pushed it out some, I might would have. but didn't want to get too scattered or cut up the original dash more than needed. as it stands, we only have to removed a piece is the 45* corners on the drivers side of the cluster to have it fit nicely. and.. there will be another plate very close to it on the passenger side (build/ID plate) that I've been able to locate new badges for that will be made from the same sheet of metal. Hope to have it come out with a similar finish.

thoughts on just clearing the piece..?

JR · « **Reply #358 on:** May 05, 2016, 09:27:31 PM »

Clear coating?

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #359 on:** May 05, 2016, 09:31:48 PM »

Quote from: JR on May 05, 2016, 09:27:31 PM

Clear coating?

yes. to seal the metal from further wear and keep its old look.

JR · « **Reply #360 on:** May 05, 2016, 09:49:18 PM »

Just a clear spray MAY work but once the corrosion starts it may not stop even sealed.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #361 on:** May 05, 2016, 10:02:17 PM »

gotcha. there is absolutely zero rust or loose debris on it. it's had an air wheel, 320 sand paper and steel wool all over it on both sides. and files down to bare metal in the edges. it will be thoroughly degreased. I guess if it does happen i can always pull it off and paint. hahah.

I like the way it give it an old, worn aircraft look. maybe that's what's so appealing to me

JR · « **Reply #362 on:** May 05, 2016, 11:48:26 PM »

True, and the rustic look will be nice. To bad you already have the gauges as they do make them for the time era.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #363 on:** May 06, 2016, 12:29:50 AM »

we still have the full set from the original. full wiring harness as well. just wanted some modern accuracy to accompany the newer drivetrain. hahah. plus.. I rather like the juxtaposition of vintage rustic and shiny penny new. (even though they almost look as if they could have been from that era..)

JR · « **Reply #364 on:** May 06, 2016, 12:45:38 AM »

Vintage at Summit;

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nvu-40141-01/overview/

Flyin6 · « **Reply #365 on:** May 06, 2016, 07:39:47 AM »

That's steel?

I thought it was aluminum...

Aircraft thing

I put a totally new dash in my Piper Comanche 250 airplane. We made that from .125" aluminum. Pretty easy to work with. Sprayed it with my favorite Lycoming gray paint...looked 50's classic. Since my Comanche was a 1960 model, it worked quite well.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #366 on:** May 06, 2016, 07:51:41 AM »

yes sir. steel. I think it's 12-14 gauge. been awhile since I bought that particular piece. hahah. just the way it's worn and patena'd makes me want to keep it. can't make metal look like that ovenight. lol. I don't know, I'll stick the gauges in once the trans temp comes and snap a pic.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #367 on:** May 08, 2016, 12:18:21 AM »

crossover high steer done

started some gauge plumbing. all running through the copper line back to the firewall. oil pressure, tach and water temp all coming from the front opening. pyro and boost coming from just a above the turbo and between the 4th and 5th valve covers.

JR · « **Reply #368 on:** May 08, 2016, 12:27:30 AM »

Nice and clean. What bender you using for the DOM?

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #369 on:** May 08, 2016, 08:10:35 AM »

it's a manual hydraulic bender. I'll snap a pick of it when I get back to the house

KensAuto · « **Reply #370 on:** May 08, 2016, 10:26:06 AM »

Clean work !

Sammconn · « **Reply #371 on:** May 08, 2016, 10:38:01 AM »

Looks great. Nice work on the steering!

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #372 on:** May 08, 2016, 10:43:53 AM »

Caution on the copper riser coming of your exhaust manifolds holding the wire housing - it's a highly efficient transmitter of HEAT so though it looks awesome, might want to change out for a less efficient conductor. Great idea for tidying up the wires!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #373 on:** May 08, 2016, 12:05:44 PM »

I'd thought about the risers. but was going for continuity of material. hahah. if I can come up with a decent alternative, definitely going to go that route. I just realized that the braided wire from the pyro may bring heat inside the loom and might not jive well with the plastic tube from the oil and boost.. :-[

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #374 on:** May 08, 2016, 07:50:29 PM »

cleaned up with all the wiring run through and into the firewall.

OldKooT · « **Reply #375 on:** May 09, 2016, 09:23:23 AM »

It may not be an issue but I have found copper and plastic to fatigue and break on Cummins. These days when I run gauges I now just use braided line. Yours looks to be nicely routed so it may like I said be a non issue.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #376 on:** May 09, 2016, 09:50:37 AM »

I was hoping that since it's not really hooked to anything that the copper won't fail. as mentioned before, the risers are all that have any sort of contact and compression on them. the 3/4" line is just suspended. I suppose we will see. hahah

just wanted to see something alittle different on there, and almost look like it could have been bought like that. I dunno.. maybe I'm just alittle weird

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #377 on:** May 10, 2016, 08:25:42 PM »

slipped the last gauge in place

and decided to do alittle wiring

no light/not quite dark outside

and 20 sec later hooked to a 4wheeler battery with small gauge alligator clips (still.. not too bad)

slipped back into place in the dash

Flyin6 · « **Reply #378 on:** May 10, 2016, 08:53:39 PM »

That is just outstanding!

JR · « **Reply #379 on:** May 10, 2016, 11:23:38 PM »

All put together it lost much of that cluttered look. Much Better!!

cj7ox · « **Reply #380 on:** May 11, 2016, 11:18:33 AM »

Very nice work!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sammconn · « **Reply #381 on:** May 11, 2016, 11:55:55 AM »

Looks great!

KensAuto · « **Reply #382 on:** May 11, 2016, 01:09:21 PM »

Great job!

BobbyB · « **Reply #383 on:** May 11, 2016, 02:53:07 PM »

Looks great.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #384 on:** May 13, 2016, 10:50:10 AM »

thanks to all. I'm at a stand still for the moment. fuel tank should be done soon, but have to compile an order to hopefully get it rolling again. down to brakes, wiring, shifting and fixing the fuel leak. I think that just about covers it. but it's gonna take quite a bit of work yet..

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #385 on:** May 16, 2016, 09:03:39 PM »

95% certain I have fixed the fuel leaks on #3 and #5 injectors. need to grab some carb cleaner to get it fully dried to double check. but it wasn't pouring out like it was. (I think there were paint chips down in the line flare.. but I also replaced return line washers on those 2 as well)

cranked it up and the tires immediately turned all the way left, PS pump and gear box worked. hahah. but.. why would it push it all the way left. and, when I grabbed and turned the steering shaft right, it was dead.. it bumped and then pushed itself all the way right with no input. I grabbed it again and pulled it center where it stayed. shut the engine off, turned it back on and it stayed the next 2 or so cranks. maybe it just needed to be worked both ways alittle..?

KensAuto · « **Reply #386 on:** May 16, 2016, 10:27:15 PM »

Could be air, too much pressure from the pump, a bad box, or..........

....hoses hooked up backwards!

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #387 on:** May 16, 2016, 10:41:29 PM »

I like the first couple of possibilities. hahah. I don't think it's even possible with the fitting size that it's hooked up backwards. how could it be regulated down to appropriate line pressure, assuming that's what's causing it and not air? I'll inspect more tmrw once I get some brake cleaner for the injector check and have it run alittle longer as well. I'm hoping that once I hook up the hydroboost itll create enough resistance to bring the pressure down some. it moved. both directions on its own the first full movement. then after that seemed to only be responding to my inputs. I'll check again. was more concerned with fuel leak than that, but once I know I've solved to first, I'll move on to the latter.

KensAuto · « **Reply #388 on:** May 16, 2016, 10:46:56 PM »

I only mentioned backwards because that's what can happen (bumping both directions with no input), and thinking that maybe you built the hoses.
The hydro should make a difference, pressure wise.. Was the truck jacked up when this happened?

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #389 on:** May 16, 2016, 10:55:25 PM »

no sir. sitting on the ground, with worn out 36s holding up the whole weight of the 12 valve. I was surprised it turned it so easily. at first I was just glad it worked, then I started to wonder what would cause it to do that! hahah.

I wasn't thinking about the hydroboost not being hooked up yet, and I've already alloted for a PS fluid cooler as well. (smaller than the trans fluid cooler I'll be ordering in a few days.. but needed none the less)

hoping to have the brake pedal assembly at least mocked up in the next day or so. going to use the original Chevy push rod and build an adapter to go from the M715 pedal to pushrod. so long as it applies pressure and pushing in a near straight line, it should be just fine.. correct? (as if it were still in the Chevy) also, I shouldn't be able to push the pedal with no PS fluid in the HB or engine running.. correct? cause it's pretty tight at the moment. lol.

KensAuto · « **Reply #390 on:** May 16, 2016, 11:00:08 PM »

It will be real tough to push, but you can still push it.

Oh, and yeah, just keep it straight...no side force...should be gtg

I hate to harp on the "lines being crossed" theory, but if they are, you could easily break your arm, so please double check it. Pressure line towards the radiator, return towards the column....and I'm pretty sure they can be swapped on a dodge (but maybe I'm just getting old and can't remember important facts anymore...ha)

JR · « **Reply #391 on:** May 16, 2016, 11:52:13 PM »

Without going back through the thread does it have ram assist? I don't see how a regular steering box could do that alone as it only responds to input.

If the ram is hooked up backwards, that would account for it unless there is a bad seal inside.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #392 on:** May 17, 2016, 06:48:16 AM »

no ram assist. it was/is supposedly a remanufactured unit for a 70s/80s FSJ.

OldKooT · « **Reply #393 on:** May 17, 2016, 09:20:05 AM »

Like Ken said the hoses reversed...or even more likely, there is a broken O ring in the direction control valve. They are very easy to tear while reassembling the box. Worse case deal just rebuild the box. The seal kits are inexpensive enough...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #394 on:** May 17, 2016, 09:20:57 AM »

Quote from: swbhobie16 on May 16, 2016, 09:03:39 PM

95% certain I have fixed the fuel leaks on #3 and #5 injectors. need to grab some carb cleaner to get it fully dried to double check. but it wasn't pouring out like it was. (I think there were paint chips down in the line flare.. but I also replaced return line washers on those 2 as well)

cranked it up and the tires immediately turned all the way left, PS pump and gear box worked. hahah. but.. why would it push it all the way left. and, when I grabbed and turned the steering shaft right, it was dead.. it bumped and then pushed itself all the way right with no input. I grabbed it again and pulled it center where it stayed. shut the engine off, turned it back on and it stayed the next 2 or so cranks. maybe it just needed to be worked both ways alittle..?

That's a hydraulic control valve
Either failed, broke in half, leaking internally, or assembled backwards.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #395 on:** May 17, 2016, 11:47:05 AM »

could it be the sector shaft preload adjustment on the top
of the box not putting pressure down on it? I vaguely remember my dad messing with it.. maybe took all the pressure off it?

I'll have to double check what its doing when I get home and fire it back up..

JR · « **Reply #396 on:** May 17, 2016, 11:50:07 AM »

No expert but doesn't the shaft just affect gear mesh?

KensAuto · « **Reply #397 on:** May 17, 2016, 12:09:42 PM »

The input shaft has a spring steel tang down the center (that's what the roll pin is at the top). When you turn the wheel, that thin tang flexes and opens the passage way in the valve. That's why you have a little bit of play in the wheel even when the box is adjusted up tight, because the first bit of movement is the "flex" valving.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #398 on:** May 17, 2016, 07:15:06 PM »

well.. I think I fixed the leaking injectors!

and the steering didn't do anything funky when running today. alittle jerky, but I think it's bc of air. nothing serious. it turns well enough.

now, ordering electric fans, trans cooler and shifter. brake lines will need to be run soon too..

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #399 on:** May 19, 2016, 01:58:44 PM »

mocked up.. notice the straps suspending it. hahah

Author Topic: M715.9 (Read 146700 times)

OldKooT

OldKooT