REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: JR on December 29, 2015, 11:39:04 PM
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I have some surgery coming up and will be off each leg for 6+ weeks. With this in mind I need something I could drive that I didn't have to climb up into, fall down into and could haul 5 of us since I chauffeur kids around for school, not just my own.
I was looking for either an XJ or a blazer and found a 1998 S10 blazer for $1350. They wanted 2350 so I offered 1500 sight unseen until I could see it.
Has no power anything and KKBd at 1400 in good shape. It needed front end work, 2 new tires and died sometimes for no known reason. So I offered 1250 and we ended at 1350. Tags good till May and just ran $72 to transfer.
Drove it home, no issues but it had 6-8 inches of play in the steering. went to smog and "FAIL" (slightly high NoX) which probably just meant a tuneup. Get it home and it won't run. Start getting parts and being familiar with GM I went right to the Ign module (no run) then the coil (we have winner) and I am just out $20.
Got her cleaned up and my 13 year old daughter is eyeing it already as it has pink stripes.
So parts are coming in as we speak but here are a few pics for a primer;
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Dug a little more and found a ripped boot, worn out front bumpstops and an oil leak.
Got a boot as the grease looks good so the CV should be sound.
Bumpstops, well there is some left,,,,,,,,,,, ::)
The 4.3 has a remote filter up front with a bypass thermo. But just like the dmax the crimps are crap. That lower line drips when it runs.
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Under neath it had a rattle in gear. Not sure if it is the well used stock muffler (cat back on the way) or the tranny cover yet.
While there I found this nice strap holding the tank up. I was told it has a new pump and the rope does look new! :P
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Dude that's awesome! I think you should test how long that rope actually lasts!
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Imagine if polypropylene were fuel soluble!
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On the front end I knew it needed help so got an entire front end setup including steering arm and idler.
The left front has toe in wobble, the right has camber wobble, so I added new spindles.
Oh and it is getting a fluid change (non Don style) 8)
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Oh the fram filter came with it (fuel) as I like most t is the last choice.
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Looks like it's well on its way to beings straight driver real soon
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Pulled the front end apart, turned the rotors and got new pads.
Air intake pulled apart as I flush the radiator.
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So I was under the impression that getting rotors turned was a thing of the past. I can't remember the last time I didn't just buy a loaded caliper and disk set
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Those $20 rotors you buy have to be turned half the time when new. Plus I turn my own. Big rotors can run a lot more than what it costs to turn them. Pads were $21 and calipers were fine.
I did find a brake line that was pretty bad. Looks frayed by the A arm, but Napa is supposed to have it for me now.
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It's hard to beat the original "made in usa (or Canada/mexico)" rotors Dave. The problem you can run into, is if the rotors are warped only after reaching a certain temp. This can happen after superheating and changing the temper of the steel. When that is the case, they're fairly true when cold so turning won't fix the issue.
I don't turn for customers anymore, just for financial reasons.
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So my d max read end has some good braking hop. I was going to just replace them. But I should get them turned down ?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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I always have them turned especially on the large trucks as mentioned they can get expensive.
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I would Dave. 20-30 bucks for the pair is average.
ok JR, you can have your thread back. :)
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DOT on, we're used to it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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I have learned from the best
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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I have found that bendix is about the only quality heavy duty brand left that is worth anything.
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If I had a dollar for every rotor I turned as a kid working in a parts store....
I bribe the guy at the local brake shop to let me turn my own. I just don't trust kids on lathes not to take .050 of each side when all I want to do is freshen the surface with .003-.005 removed.
Ken, your comments cause me to ask. My LML has a bit of a wobble in the brakes but only when towing and braking from speed. Could it be that the rotors are straight when cool and a little warped when hot??
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Yes. Mine are the same way. Just waiting on extra funds so I can get them from the dealer.
I caused it when my truck was heating up and double downshifting, which caused me to have to go into neutral and smoke the brakes w/16k on the back.
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Basically it has turned into the entire front end on this. Boot was a breeze but need to get a shaft seal now.
Ball joints are gone too but they bolt in or have been changed before.
On the drivers hub I thought was good, it began to pull apart when I unbolted it.
Bout the only thing not changed now will be the steering arm as I have to pull the box out for that.
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Starting to sound like a "Don oil change"
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Starting to sound like a "Don oil change"
When we are staring at a mountain of boxes and a bare frame, we'll be sure!
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It's a good thing that you got that thing cheap!
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Getting there but not near a Don FC yet,,,,,,,,,,,
After pulling the steering access to the oil lines was way easier! Used a HF die grinder and cut a slot in all 4 ends. Pried open with a big flathead and cleaned the ends of real well.
Had Napa 1/2 id trans line that should work just fine. New clamps of course and it is all sano now. The ends of the line is not flared, but has many ribs so it should be fine. Pulled and it was solid, but I was thinking of double clamping.
Rebuilt the left outer CV and found the seal was cut so it got a new one.
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While I was doing all this I also cleaned up the throttle body. There is a wing in the way at part throttle that I removed. Next was cleaning up all the ridges in there and just a good cleaning. It was dirty!
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Trued up the base with piece granite I got just things like this. Tach a piece of wet/dry down, some oil and hone away. Works on about everything
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I had never thought about getting a pieces of granite like that for that. I have used plate but a piece of granite like that size would be easy to locate I think. Thanks JR
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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I had never thought about getting a pieces of granite like that for that. I have used plate but a piece of granite like that size would be easy to locate I think. Thanks JR
Raising boys into RealMen!!
The NASA boys use a dead flat piede of granite to assemble rocket engines where clearances gotta' be right on!
Duane uses granite in a climate controlled room, oriented to true north, encased in anti static cloth and prayed over by Buddhist mountain monks (Special variety) for his work bench surface!
Anything born from a volcano has got to be strong!
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You can get them both on ebay,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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For those wanting something flat to sand on.... the lid off a toilet works very well. Just saying.....if you use them upside down you can fill with water and wet sand flat... slick huh?
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Been going slow as the rains have finally started here. Garage is still a tad busy, so in the driveway under a pop up.
Changed the trans filter and what a pain. pan came right with just one bad bolt under the shift line. Going back in it would just not go. Not feeling right and found I had broke a 1-2 shift solenoid. Luckily it is a common part and napa had em for $20. Trick is to unbolt the rear mount, jack up the trans and the pan goes on with tweaking parts.
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Next as I got soaked as I am laying on cardboard with water running right under me. S10 is parked in driveway where a gutter drains, (finally fixed the runoff with a 3 inch drain kicking it off to the side 10 ft).
I fixed the tank strap (AKA ROPE) with a simple J bolt. Put a little bend in it so it clears the tank and she was done,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Then I cut this lug of a stock muffler off since I had this new Magnaflow for it. 2.5 in/out vs the stock 2.25 out. Just adding a 90 and it will kick out IFO the rear right tire.
Still have to do the final welding but it looks good in there. Even got to use the stock flange in the front and rear hanger! Going to add a little turn down to keep the exhaust away somewhat. You can see the 90 just over the spring with a block under it.
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When I finished the front end I found the tranny line resting on the idler bolt. It was a little worn but solid. A little push and it was clear. Looks like a good spot to cut for a tranny cooler in the near future.
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Definitely giving it some love, the toilet lid idea was really good btw......
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Got this part done and off the racks, muffler sounds great, then it stops again!!
ERRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!! (leaning towards the crank sensor, another common issue)
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Got this part done and off the racks, muffler sounds great, then it stops again!!
ERRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!! (leaning towards the crank sensor, another common issue)
Be handy if I had one of those for the Mrs. - sends a text message that says, "bring home flowers" or "good night to work late" or just "keep mouth shut"...... :-X
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Psssst JR... The thread title has a typo ;)
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Psssst JR... The thread title has a typo ;)
DOOOOOHHHH,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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I said it
When we start seeing a bare freshly painted frame awaiting a body, with fresh fluids of course, then the job is nearing completion!
Did I say completion
Actually not a word in my working vocabulary! :o
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Got this part done and off the racks, muffler sounds great, then it stops again!!
ERRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!! (leaning towards the crank sensor, another common issue)
Had a indy pace car Beretta back in 98 that would do that. crank sensor was broken internally. $15 part, 5 min fix, 4 days of diagnostics.
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Ran fine for a few days with the new coil.
It hits but doesnt catch. Crank sensor or wire to ing mod.
Have to wait a few days now. In Ontario for AMA show.
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I did replace the crank sensor today. Came out in 2 pieces so I suspect it. It didn't start still so I started moving wires around.
I found if I moved the 3 pin plug going to the coil around it would run or not. This is also a known issues and where I started looking today.
Was going to get it aligned, but the steering arm is shot. Replaced everything BUT that since the steering box has to come out to change. Schwabe was cool and told me before.
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Mine also came out in two pieces. Cheap, heat sensitive plastic over a low grade quality magnet. The steering arms on those are a BEAR so plan your time accordingly or just let the boys at LS do it for you.
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Put new tires and wheels on it. $800 for both then $75 in rebates. Cranked the front about an inch to clear. A little narrow, but the price and fit was right. he stock wheels suck at just 15 inch with a 5 in bs.
Got some noise under it now (just what I need) and thinking a tranny bolt came loose. It is a ping vs a cluck like a rod or something and came on slow. Motor seems smooth as silk really, no lights, starts right up. The 4L60 doesn't have an inspection cover like older trannys so even looking is a bear. I thought it was the cat heat shield at first.
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Nice. Got a little "Cali lean" to it now.
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W&T package helped it's looks a bit.
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W&T package helped it's looks a bit.
Thx, they are flush with the wells, just right. Just an inch taller than stock so power is still fine.
Not to find the noise!
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"when" is the noise coming on JR?
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It was coming from under near the tranny, and was just a slight rattle only in gear. Thought is was the cat heat shield. It has grown to all the time now but coming from tranny pan area.
Pulled the inspection cover on the tranny and all the bolts are tight. Noise is still a rattle, not clunking or slapping like a rod. Good oil pressure, no CEL and runs smooth.
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if you can get the dust cover off the flywheel, get in there and look for little rust lines radiating out from the center. common issue for "rattling in gear" is a cracked flywheel. i guess it's a known issue on these per my transmission buddy. Donny at Wilson's Trans & 4x4 in Porterville.
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I got the dust cover off but you can barely see the bolts much less the center. It is about 2 inch dia.
That sounds plausible though with the noise as it does not sound like the engine. I will dig a little deeper as a flywheel is better than a motor and it does need a rear seal.
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Traded in my 245 for 265s but lowered the profile to keep the same height.
The noise comes and goes, strange. Still have to do the pitman arm. Problem on this is the box must be pulled to do it and the weather has said no! Looks like we have a good week or so coming up so I will get it on. Finish the paver patio I started last fall and put a solar system up to augment what I have now.
The hitch in all this is my 1st surgery is scheduled for March 4th. Then nothing big goes until I am up from that. I can see lots of cleaning up in those 6+ weeks.
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Praying for speedy recovery JR
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Pray your surgery goes well. What is this solar system you speak of?
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Got the front end done. Hopefully I don't need new upper offset bushings. Had some bad camber and I adjusted it some but the alignment will tell the story.
Bump stops were in bad shape, well no shape really. Also have to trim the front wheel wells as the 265s rub a little.
Put a tach bezel in, just plug and play (if you get the right year) and it works great. Had another 3k miles on it from LKQ but that is minor. I will be adding remote locks later. Need new plastic bumper trim too, 1 is pushed in and the other has a hole in it.
Little more cleaning to get the smoking smell out and it looks like the flexplate is gone too. Made rear shackles giving it about an inch of lift to match cranking up the TB about 3 turns.
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interested to see if the replacement of said flexplate fixes your ticking noise problems.
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interested to see if the replacement of said flexplate fixes your ticking noise problems.
I need to find out quick as I get cut in a few weeks and need it. Plus I am finishing up a paver patio and doing a 4000watt solar system all before!
Kids are off next week and they are still young enough I have to keep em busy. Lets work on the house during the day and vehicles at night. Wouldn't mind getting sparty running too so I don't have 2 dead subs in the driveway!
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my experience from having an ankle reconstructed, its really not that bad and you will be surprised at what you can and cannot do with a cast on. hell, I fenced half of my yard with the cast and crutches, but then again I also had this
https://www.google.com/search?q=game+ready+half+leg+boot+wrap&biw=1351&bih=756&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj808WQ8vDKAhVFVyYKHcLyARsQ_AUIBSgA&dpr=0.85
and the half leg boot wrap
http://www.gameready.com/professional-cold-compression-wraps
hit your insurance company up and make them give you one of these! this will truly be a life saver and you will be able to feel it thru the plaster and fiberglass cast.
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Kaiser is fairly good on giving stuff.
They are removing a few chips and re-attaching tendons tore loose from the ankle I assume with screws. (just what I need is to beep) I don't understand the 6 week off the leg as I have heard and seen just 2-3 weeks.
Anyway I do not plan on just laying around. I have plenty to do that does not involve heavy objects (besides me).
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Probably due to age and circulation there JR, tendon attachment is "iffy" on good candidates, and the percentages decrease with age. :(.
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Who the heck is old!! I turn 58 this year,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,crud
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Probably due to age and circulation there JR, tendon attachment is "iffy" on good candidates, and the percentages decrease with age. :(.
Yes, that^^. Not a knock on your age there young fella, but Dad's Achilles re-attachment turned into a do it again, go back in do it right, whoops we got you infected, go back in, wound draining, vacuum pumping, year and a half nightmare. Do what you need to do but don't push it too hard there JR.
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I will follow dr orders. My leg healed good. Got 2 specialists on this at once and they have a good rep.
I know about infections, can you say vasectomy!!!!!!!!!!!
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Now there's an insult added to injury! Yuck!
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ouch.
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Thats an understatement,,,,,,,,,,
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Thats an understatement,,,,,,,,,,
I was contemplating the knife myself, but I think now I'll give it a little more time.
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Thats an understatement,,,,,,,,,,
I was contemplating the knife myself, but I think now I'll give it a little more time.
I have another son thinking the same.
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Blazer is running fine but the rattle is still there. Took it to a trans shop I trust and they believe it is the flexplate too.
Long story short I am dropping the coin to have them do it. I trust them and they let me buy the parts (rear main and flexplate was under $60)
I am now getting a grown from under the front end (neither this or the SP was an issue when I purchased). Seems to happen when cruising at highway speeds and coming from the right front. All new parts but the driveline and you can hear it ratchet down when you stop. I am thinking the axle disconnect but having them check that too.
Off to finish the patio!
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Isn't retirement relaxing?!!!!!
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Isn't retirement relaxing?!!!!!
Maybe I should get a part time job so I can relax,,,,,,,,
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I didn't have much to add here. I hope your healing goes well...I can well relate to being unable to do stuff due to soreness atm.
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I didn't have much to add here. I hope your healing goes well...I can well relate to being unable to do stuff due to soreness atm.
Oh do I feel age right now.
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Got it back today and the FP was cracked all around. Found the starter was bad so he did that also only charging me dealer for the starter ($110)
Seems to run well but still have the hum up front that I have tracked down to the axle disconnect. It uses vacuum via the trans case and switching on/off fixed the noise temp.
Now on the way home the CEL came on. My deal truck has lost its appeal.
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you're dealing w/ all the BS the previous owner didn't want to deal with. you're too deep now to back out, so go on full plow. CEL is probably something emissions related now that you've got it up and running for the most part. considering your 4wd disconnect issues, I'm betting vacuum leak which will trip evap codes. glad to hear the flex plate was the simple solution.
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It passed all but Nox when I tried to smog before. Done a complete tuneup since then and drove it for a full tank and just today the CEL came on running the kids around.
One day to go and still have about 1/5 of the patio to finish. If the rain holds for tomorrow I am good. (little rain tonight, none tomorrow and then 3-4 more says the weather man who is always right!)
Yup, not giving up at all now. Need to make it the best I can. (I just found an 93 Cherokee a guy is almost giving away!) Must not be tempted, must not!!!
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That CEL thing, you mean it's not supposed to be on? Our S10 has pretty orange blinking lights all over the dash and has for many years. I never worry about it, since when driving it your far too busy trying to steer the thing in some semblance of a straight line. Did you know IFS stands for "Impressively Freakish Steering"
As for the weather.... it's suppose to be nice this weekend. But I spent too long on my feet at the auction yesterday, so I have planned an entire weekend of sitting in the lawn chair watching Kay do something productive.
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Lots of name for the IFS, they all fit. At least mine is new.
As for sitting around and watching Kay, that sounds great.
I have moved so many bricks, crawled around and cut bricks my whole body hurts. The ankle surgery tomorrow will be a vacation.
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Now that I am moving some I did a little on the Blazer. I need to flip this now, just to small and it did what I needed for a month or so.
The cat rattles like HELP and it shows a CEL 420, bank 1, cat efficiency below threshold, so I pulled it and got a new Walker bolt in.
The center console was broken, so pulled that out and both seat recline handles were gone.
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Did an RnR on the console cover. They sell a plate that fixes it. First I filled the entire base with a think epoxy, flared the edges and screwed-riveted it in. After drying a couple days.
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Then I pulled the cat and boy did I find a rattle!!! I have heard of but never seen one this bad. It was a pile melted material and most fell out of the inlet. I would guess the 02 is OK as it was saying it was bad,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
The new one is a Walker bolt in with a rebate to boot. Getting a Carb legal cat can be a pricey chore but this was just $150 shipped with a $30 rebate. Plus no messing with welding and fitting.
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Next come this little vacuum switch. Mounts on top of the transfer case and sends vacuum to another actuator under the battery that locks the front axle (simple GM, right) The transfer case is actually switched via a dash switch for actuator on the transfer.
What has been happening is when I cruise the front end was trying to engauge and I had to cycle the 4x4 button as I drove. Simple temp fix was I cut and plugged the line until I can replace the $15 switch.
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Nice job on the console. And wow on the cat! Seriously melted.
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That cat looks like what we used to do to em back in the day. Take em off use a rose bud & heat the internals cherry then stand the cat on end & drive guts out with a solid round bar into a bucket. Finally weld the shell back in place and it always had a better sound & fuel mileage/ power......
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If you look earlier in the thread you can see the muffler was blown out good. At least this uses 3 bolt flanges on each end. I spent more time getting it off than unbolting it as there was a xmember there.
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Cat all finished up, no more codes or rattle. Kept the old 02 sensor so saved a few $$ there.
Switch was just $13 with discount. Bad it was as the ball should be OUT. It is located above the front driveshaft where size 10 hand might fit, mine is well bigger than that.
Detail and a couple of seat release levers and away it goes!!
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Getting it all fixed up for the new owners.....
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Getting it all fixed up for the new owners.....
Yep. I will loose some on this but want the most I can get without going nuts. Its actually pretty clean inside, almost no smoking smell left. Fabreeze and LOTS of freah air going through it. Now the 4x4 works as it should and it will pass smog. The new tires and wheels along with a rebuilt front end should help it sell fast.
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Thought maybe your daughter was gunna keep it.
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I thought about it but we are talking 3-5 years. Here in Ca you get a CDL at 16 if you pay up the wazoo for lessons. No drivers ED anymore so most wait until they are 18 now.
Insurance is high here too for what I have and I need to cut the fleet down for parking and $$$ flow.
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Selling anything interesting?
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98 Blazer and 91 Suburban (not Spartan). Maybe the XR600 and the Samurai. I just have to many projects and need to thin em out and improve cash flow.
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98 Blazer and 91 Suburban (not Spartan). Maybe the XR600 and the Samurai. I just have to many projects and need to thin em out and improve cash flow.
Put them up for sale in the "For Sale" section with pics. Let's see if that thing works!
I'm thinking that XR600 is a sure sell to a survivalist somewhere
Suzi...Not so much, could be wrong
Burb...Hmmm, burb...hmmm...cummins burb...
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The 600 needs some work but it runs and I have all the parts, street legal too. Just want something ready to ride.
Blazer, obvious.
Sami should go fine. They are in demand and getting harder to find. Lots of stuff, new motor, tires wheels, 3 t cases iwth low gear kits, extra axles with lockers.
Sub is the 1500 (Spartan is the 2500) with just 85k miles. Great condition cept paint getting setup with a 3/4 rear, new tires wheels lifted 4 inches.
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Ya know JR, I'm not so sure I shouldn't own that burb...
It, along with a old crew cab dodge or chevy 3/4 ton are my absolute favorites.
But I own a crew cab chev already...and I don't have a burb...
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Now that would be a road trip! I need to get it running (darn alarm wiring) and fix the very common roof rust. Still a small project to get to, finishing the patio today!
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Those sami's have a cult following, selling shouldn't be an issue.
98 Blazer and 91 Suburban (not Spartan). Maybe the XR600 and the Samurai. I just have to many projects and need to thin em out and improve cash flow.
Put them up for sale in the "For Sale" section with pics. Let's see if that thing works!
I'm thinking that XR600 is a sure sell to a survivalist somewhere
Suzi...Not so much, could be wrong
Burb...Hmmm, burb...hmmm...cummins burb...
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I've got a few knuckleheads out this way that might be interested in that samurai. if you can shoot me some pics via text that would be great.