TOOLS, CONSTRUCTION, ALTERNATIVE ENERGY > What are you building?

Any concrete guys here?

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TexasRedNeck:
Also working on plans for a 40x60 metal building. Starting with the concrete.

I understand that its all about uniform load bearing subgrade, subbase and base.

I have a spot picked out and need to remove a few small trees and one or two 18-24inch trees and bring in some fill/base

So once I clear the trees and remove the stumps,

1. compact all the disturbed soil (or should I till and then compact ALL the soil?)
2. bring in sub base about 3-4 inches and compact
3. bring in fine base and compact
4. 1/2 rebar on 16 inch center

questions -

will using a dozer to compact the  ground be sufficient?
when buying sub base and base, what are the industry terms and specs I need to look for when buying these fills?
Are beams absolutely necessary or is a 6 inch slab sufficient?

Would I save much by doing all the prep and forming myself and just hiring labor to finish the concrete when I have the trucks deliver? or will I be on the wrong side of the cost benefit curve ? 

Am I missing anthing?  Remember I'm in a frost free area in Texas.

Thanks

KensAuto:
No experts it appears, so I'll give some second hand advise.

The ones I've helped on, done myself, or paid for (out here) they just compact the current base...but maybe it's about location. Also the local experts don't use steel in the concrete anymore. They prefer to use a high strength mix and saw cutting every 100 sq ft or less. They say that it's better than having the steel rust and fail in 20 years. Dunno..
I do know there's 2 types of pours; monolithic and the other one. lol   Mono for pouring the footings and the floor at the same time. I believe you have to use rebar to tie the 2 together. Concrete guys like this type because it's easier, faster...doing it all at the same time....but it may not even be an option as far as passing code in some areas.
The other type; Foundations/footers are poured, then the floor seperately, allowing it to float as the building settles.

I don't believe a dozer would compact very well....they're meant to have a light footprint.

At my shop, we poured 7" of high strength...no steel, and it's holding fine.

Atkinsmatt:
I have saved time and money at work (Corps of Engineer projects/ one was a tank maintenance bay) on slabs doing a mix with 3-4k strength and adding structural fiber to strengthen the concrete as opposed to rebar.  There are issues with rebar like Ken said and they add the fiber at the plant when they mix it and done.  I would go with the monolithic placement as you knock it out all at once.  The only thing you would need to install is the anchorage for the steel and any rough-in items.  Concrete is going to crack and sawing is like telling it where.

Need a roller as the dozer wouldn't achieve uniform compaction.  57 stone would be fine for the base.  Not sure what type sub base you have around to select from.  Something with some clay as moisture will help with the compaction.  How much you need to add on top of existing is based on the site selected.

Dawg25385:
I know on our build site, they are going to bring in a roller for the slabs even after the 700 JD dozer tracked the dirt in... and for what it's worth, our slabs (1200 sq ft in the garage, and almost 1700 in the shop) will not have rebar, but structural fiber in the mud instead.

TexasRedNeck:
What kind of a roller?  I've seen the vibratory plates and the jumping foot type but would rather have something a bit larger

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