TOOLS, CONSTRUCTION, ALTERNATIVE ENERGY > What are you building?

Moving the wall around and new floors

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JR:
When I added to the house after the fire, they added a shear wall right in the middle of the living room Has always driven me nuts. Right now it holds the TV.

When this happened I planned ahead some and added a post for a beam that was to be the accent for the addition. I poured a 3x3x3 footing and this post holds up the main beam. This was cut to match the accent beam, then tied together with 2inch angle and lags from above.(I redid the roof then too)

Now 15 years later, retired and the temp carpet looking like garbage (gotta love pets), we are going for new flooring. But first the wall needs to be removed without loosing the "shear".

So doing the research I found Simpson makes a OSB strongwall that replaces the 6 ft wall I have now. 1 ft replaces 4 ft, I am going with 2ft for the 6ft wall.

At this time the footing is secure with a 6x6 post up to another strong tie where it meets the beams. Few bolts to go but solid!

New strong wall goes along the original foundation left from the addition of this side of the house. The addition is 14x35 and 6ft shear is dead center of where the old outside wall was.

JR:
The wall coming out as I said is 6ft wide, house is 24ft arcoss there. The wall is not attached really to anything, but the inspectors liked it.

TV goes to the opposite wall by the fireplace (we have a real one hear!) That post will hold it all up easily. Main beam above is 24in. You can see the accent beam going to the far wall in this picture.

JR:
So now the fun starts. First was getting the Strongwall. HD never called back from the order desk. Went to what was called Meeks (just sold to some LLC, hope the wood stays the same, just 2 blocks from here) and had it in a week. Not cheap at $700, but should work. Heavy is not the right word here. 3 of us can just move it around. Standing it up will be fun!

Next came opening the flooring, ceiling and the wall. Not the hardest but messy and the wife hate ANY noise, so I work when she's at work.

You can see the Simpson wall in the pic and the bay window for the new kitchen and the old will become a bedroom.

JR:
Mounting requires two 1 inch rods glued into the foundation, 6 inches remain for mounting the wall. It then gets strapped to the roof joists and the wall behind it. All the hardware is included, less the threaded rods and glue.

Marking it out I drilled the holes using Bauer SDS MAX drill. Started with a new 1 in drill, then hit rebar about 12 inches down. There is 6 inches of wood under the floor too.

At first I was going to modify the HF bit, but it wasn't rated for rebar. Found that Diablo makes a rebar bit just for this and I went to 1 1/8 dia to allow for better glueing. And the Diablo was 36inch long, HF was just 24. Finally got the bit from Amazon after a week, was $108!! Now check out the box it came in, that is a 10x12 envelope in there!

JR:
Had to make an extention for the wood hole saw too. Was a 3/4 bolt, head cut off then turned down to fit the regular drill. Like I said, there over 6in of wood first.

Drilling the concrate was not that bad. I had started with the 1in, then hit rebar so I got the Diablo. It took well over an hour to get though the 1/2 rebar. Bauer SDS MAX did the job without breaking a sweat. It stalled a couple time on the bar, but made it. By the way the hole is 30in deep, leaving the 6in required to bolt the wall on.

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