Author Topic: SquareD Part 6 Bumpers, Winches, wiring, lights, assembly (Read 455882 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1300 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:05:37 PM »

Next I created a mounting plate for the hand winch out of .250" plate and drilled it for 3/8" bolts

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1301 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:07:01 PM »

Then I added two "feet" to mount directly to the steel bar cross tube

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1302 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:08:17 PM »

After marking about where the tire would rest, I welded in the winch mount allowing room for the hand crank and a couple sizes larger tire should that ever happen.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1303 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:11:16 PM »

This gives the strap a direct shot to the back of the tire mount, but that strap will have to make a 90 degree turn. For now, I simply created this simple mount to capture a piece of PVC so that the nylon would run against something plastic and relatively friction free

The hose clamp threaded through the steel section holds the PVC very securely

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1304 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:12:45 PM »

That piece was welded on top of the "V" which lies directly behind the center of the wheel mount

Here you can see how it all lies

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1305 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:14:08 PM »

That hand crank picks up that tire with little problem

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1306 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:15:58 PM »

Once it gets close its a simple matter to just push the tire home or winch it there then engage the latch and tighten it down

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1307 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:17:45 PM »

The angle is about right and it's high enough to stay out of stuff I might catch on a severe departure angle.

The bump stops are doing their job as well.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1308 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:19:47 PM »

The latch clears nicely and if you wanted to get sneaky, just thread a nut onto this stud, not visible from the front and that tire/wheel is not coming off unless the thief is smarter than most are and is very determined

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1309 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:21:17 PM »

I'm using one of my tractor clips to retain the handle. I could pull the pin and store the handle and again, you'd have quite the problem hefting all that off the rack!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1310 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:22:41 PM »

Some different angles of the setup

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1311 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:25:33 PM »

OK from the department of redundancy department, department, I wanted to pin the legs in a locked upright position to take all the load off that latch and make jumping canyons a safer venture

Using .250" angle, I started with a 3/8" hole for now, but final hole diameter will depend on the size pin I pickup over at the tractor store

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1312 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:27:06 PM »

Once welding those to the gate, I punched the corresponding holes into the swing-down tire carrier

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1313 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:28:04 PM »

I did both sides for redundant redundancy.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1314 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:30:22 PM »

I think I'm going to bevel those carrier mounts and wrap then with a layer of steel as well

A couple/few water cans will be fitted right here. I think I'll just get lazy here and weld the water cans right onto the tailgate, heck, no one would expect that!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1315 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:32:04 PM »

OHHH, that tail gate drooped quite a bit!

Yikes

Guess I'm going to have to reinforce the curved part some...can't have things moving about!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1316 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:33:43 PM »

Red dog is still upset about getting power washed.

Good! Maybe the thing will run off and torment someone else!

I think all this rain caused my mulch pile to grow again...I think I'm back up to 10 yards!

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #1317 on:** July 15, 2015, 07:45:14 PM »

Nice work- could flare your PVC with some heat and your gloved hand n save on strap wear?

KensAuto · « **Reply #1318 on:** July 15, 2015, 10:01:30 PM »

Nice, and very original.

Sammconn · « **Reply #1319 on:** July 15, 2015, 10:39:25 PM »

Fantastic! With the redundant redundant bolts, a nut or two, a removed handle and the latch, you'd need to have more than your everyday thief to make off with the tire.
The winch seems to work well and that will make handling the spare a simple one person job instead of two grunts and a monkey.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1320 on:** July 15, 2015, 10:58:13 PM »

Quote from: cudakidd53 on July 15, 2015, 07:45:14 PM

Nice work- could flare your PVC with some heat and your gloved hand n save on strap wear?

Mikey,

You were reading my mind!

Going to do exactly that after I look over the PVC joints at the local SLOWES

Higher Caliber · « **Reply #1321 on:** July 16, 2015, 03:04:04 AM »

Why can't the winch go on the passengers side of the rack, somewhere on the curve so it doesn't interfere with the gas cans and other gear?

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JR · « **Reply #1322 on:** July 16, 2015, 03:05:17 AM »

I really like the idea and out of the box thinking.

Or just make a roller from PVC?

Dustoff35 · « **Reply #1323 on:** July 16, 2015, 06:17:38 AM »

You could also buy a boat-trailer roller from a boat supply house, Bass Pro in Cinci has a boat hardware section or any of the local marinas or online...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1324 on:** July 16, 2015, 11:13:08 AM »

Quote from: Higher Caliber on July 16, 2015, 03:04:04 AM

Why can't the winch go on the passengers side of the rack, somewhere on the curve so it doesn't interfere with the gas cans and other gear?

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It just can't! ;-)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1325 on:** July 16, 2015, 11:17:09 AM »

Quote from: Dustoff35 on July 16, 2015, 06:17:38 AM

You could also buy a boat-trailer roller from a boat supply house, Bass Pro in Cinci has a boat hardware section or any of the local marinas or online...

That's a great idea!

Just checked that out

I think one of those "V" shaped "Yates" rollers on a 1/2" axle would work nicely

Guess I'm not done!

Wilbur · « **Reply #1326 on:** July 17, 2015, 01:39:58 PM »

Don- having just read an interesting article on shock damping and the tuning of shocks for off-road I realized I hadn't seen exactly what shocks you put into SD. I couldn't seem to find anything either through the search function in the thread(s) (I saw the brackets but not specifically which shocks you used). I was thinking given all the suspension changes you have made and the weight of SD it would be hard to know exactly what shock would be best no? Did you go with adjustable ones? Again, thinking that some of this may end up being trial and error to get it tuned correctly for full payload, where you want to travel and how fast you want to go. Anyhoo....just curious.

Here was the article which (at least for a novice like me on this subject) I found pretty interesting:

http://www.offroadxtreme.com/engine-tech/brakes-suspension/inside-shock-tuning-how-it-works/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=inside-shock-tuning-how-it-works

hopefully not considered DOT ha

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1327 on:** July 17, 2015, 07:56:32 PM »

I am just using some Nitro Rancho shocks at the moment. Some very long ones set up for a 3/4 ton Dodge with a 8" lift.

It is going to be trial and error. There is a lot of things to get sorted and while that is happening I'll start to get into shocks. What I have is fine, however, not what I want which are some custom King 2.5" units front and back with remote reservoirs and very long travel.

After I stick in two more leaves up front and install the late model Silverado rear springs, I'll be much closer to a functional system. That will give me ride height and stuff/droop out measurements, but really I need to drive it some to see what's going on if anything.

The truck is going to be a world apart from a stock Dodge. Much stiffening of the frame, more cross members, springs that are 4" longer and 14" longer than stock. The addition of front and rear sway bars. The relocation of the actual shock mounts and angle change, the anti-torque bar and a lot more weight with significant weight out back. All of this mixes up the pot of dynamics, so who knows what right now?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1328 on:** July 17, 2015, 07:58:39 PM »

Was working on the water can carrier today in the sweltering heat. I was dripping wet all day even with a fan pushing a breeze in the shop.

Anyway I chose three suitable victims to build around

Cleaned the shotgun while I was playing with the cans

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1329 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:00:27 PM »

Sensitive to adding gobs of weight, I will be using 16 gage for this carrier. But I will be doing something special to the panels to strengthen them

Here's the bottom and the start of many lightening holes

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1330 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:01:40 PM »

Next up, the front and back halo panels

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1331 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:02:24 PM »

Here's the one on the Chevy which I will approximate here on the Dodge

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1332 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:03:58 PM »

I'm going to press in flares into the lightening holes to stiffen the panel a bunch

Here is the dimple die I will be using along with a 30 ton press

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1333 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:05:32 PM »

Those are pricey little tools right there, but they do a pretty good job.

Here is the first side panel with 5ea holes which have been pressed into the "Dimple"

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1334 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:06:59 PM »

That stiffened up that panel so much, I could barely flex it at all, when I could play it like a hand saw blade before the dimple operation

Here's the parts shaping up for the can carrier

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1335 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:08:10 PM »

Next I did the dimple treatment on the carrier bottom. There are 12 new holes there:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1336 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:10:27 PM »

That sucker stiffened right up as well.

Ashamed we can't do a similar operation to new Army privates!

Next I carefully assembled the upper halo using the 3/16" strap and bending it to be close. Turns out I got it a bit too close!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1337 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:11:28 PM »

Next these three parts got clamped up and tack welded together

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1338 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:12:24 PM »

And before you knew it, all those parts became one!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1339 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:13:57 PM »

Then the basic part got 4 3/16" uprights to box it all in and finish off the corners

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1340 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:16:25 PM »

To save weight, this carrier will weld directly to the two 3/4" sections you see here.

I purposely angled them inward a bit to keep the departure angles friendly and keep bouncy cans where they belong

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1341 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:17:39 PM »

Here the carrier is welded to the uprights. This is permanent

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1342 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:18:47 PM »

I added this side brace in on the spare tire side

The winch handle clears all, but to use it you will have to remove the water cans first

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1343 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:19:33 PM »

And with the very snug fitting cans

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1344 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:20:55 PM »

Some more angles

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1345 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:21:49 PM »

And that is all there is for build day 281

Sammconn · « **Reply #1346 on:** July 17, 2015, 11:41:06 PM »

Looks really good Don. Did you get the sag out that had happened with the weight of the spare? I know you had mentioned it, and now the holes to shave weight. Or is it going to be a fact of life with the swing gate, and it will be secure and straight on its base in the closed position.

JR · « **Reply #1347 on:** July 18, 2015, 12:46:49 AM »

Did those dies come from Bonny or custom made?

I sure like em, nice work.

Wilbur · « **Reply #1348 on:** July 18, 2015, 01:38:41 AM »

Looks really great. Could you remove the winch handle and use an extension or drill to lower the tire so you wouldn't have to remove the cans?

akraven · « **Reply #1349 on:** July 18, 2015, 01:47:09 AM »

Those dimple dies look really good as well as helping stiffen that up. I too would be curious where you got them.