0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.
What axles do you think it has under it?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: TexasRedNeck on October 24, 2019, 08:29:52 AMWhat axles do you think it has under it?Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkUnless I am mistaken on the later year units it should have a 60/14 sm465/205 454
Don't think there is any way oil can drip from the booster.Maybe something you lubed and its dripping, steering univ
What about your hokie park brake valve? Is that leaking? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For sure the booster.Don, did you put stiffer valve springs in? Don't remember.When he looked at the data, the fuel trims looked ok? Usually if there's an issue the fuel trims reflect it.And, did you replace the O2 sensors?
Quote from: KensAuto on October 25, 2019, 12:56:46 AMFor sure the booster.Don, did you put stiffer valve springs in? Don't remember.When he looked at the data, the fuel trims looked ok? Usually if there's an issue the fuel trims reflect it.And, did you replace the O2 sensors?Ken, I think you are on it...where I was thinkingValve train noise sounding like detonation to the knock sensorsYes, double springs, moly pushrods, Z06 liftersHe mentioned spark knock, retarding timing, not getting into the fuel enrichment cycle.O2 Sensors same old ones
Quote from: Bigdave_185 on October 24, 2019, 10:31:20 PMWhat about your hokie park brake valve? Is that leaking? Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIt's not hokie, nothing I build is hokie, my life is not hokie, the world is n.....
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
That is a beautyI would be interested if I didn't already have mineI am having a difficult time not picking up one of these:
Playing around with this thing a bit more. I don't work on it all the time, I have plenty of other things to do, but from time to time I do continue messing with this truckSo, I pulled a good data log and sent that off to Justin at Black Bear Performance. We'll see what he finds outMeanwhile, I noticed a rumble, almost a vibration that starts being noticable around 60mph and is obvious and making a humming sound at 70. I was thinking while driving in the rain yesterday that that it sure sounded like the front driveshaft was spinning. When I turned off the exit on a wet road I hit the gas some and it did not spin out. That got me thinking. It wouldn't spin out if it was in 4WD...Today I climbed underneath it and discovered a couple things. Fitst, that new Fomoto oil drain valve is leaking through the threaded body (Its bad!). Secondly, there were drips of transmission fluid around the pan, so that needs addressing and, finally, the front driveshaft was not free spinning. So, yep, it is either in 4WD or the front axle uncoupler is not functioning.Now that would account for a bunch of the lost performance, being in eternal 4WD with all its associated drag, but not for the total lack of power this vehicle seems to have.So I continue, pressing ever onward toward eventual ...DURAMAX SWAP
Don, don’t listen to them. That 6.0 should run a lot better than you are describing. I say get the tune right, fully powered and running right so you are happy with it. Then swap in a Duramax and donate the 6.0 to me for the Blazer swap. ;)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don I don’t think you need aftermarket. You just need the factory parts and they’ll plug right up. Easiest to find a same year model 2500hd with the duramax and buy a rollover or rear end collisonSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: TexasRedNeck on November 04, 2019, 12:35:56 PMDon I don’t think you need aftermarket. You just need the factory parts and they’ll plug right up. Easiest to find a same year model 2500hd with the duramax and buy a rollover or rear end collisonSent from my iPhone using TapatalkI'm going to start a new thread discussing D-Max conversion of this 2500
And the answer to the fuel question?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
any way your TPS could be off/sending odd signals to ECM?
Florence speedway in Walton has Sunoco racing fuel.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Understood Don. I just tend to follow a simple process of elimination based on the capabilities I have at hand.There is the possibility of bad sensors or something else, so I would bump the octane to 105 or so just to data log and use that as process of elimination. If it still wont run right with 105 then you absolutely know there is an electronics problem of some kind or you have to investigate the valve springs a little further.It’s a cheap way to start the process and requires no wrenching.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Well if you hear valve train noise then so do the sensors.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Quote from: TexasRedNeck on November 13, 2019, 09:57:02 AMWell if you hear valve train noise then so do the sensors.Sent from my iPad using TapatalkStill waiting to hear from Justin,But, I wonder how does one check those?
I thought I read somewhere that they could tune out the knock sensors or tone them down.Justin would know I would guess.I would try the racing fuel and if its really not knocking but picking up the valve noise, you’ll know because it won’t run any better with the higher octaneThenMaybe readjust the lash and see if that quiets them down and or replace with singles.Singles should be good to 6k rpm easy.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
These springs, dual springs were recommended by the cam grinder, so I'm pretty sure they are OK