REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL

TOOLS, CONSTRUCTION, ALTERNATIVE ENERGY => What are you building? => Topic started by: Flyin6 on December 03, 2017, 09:34:56 AM

Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on December 03, 2017, 09:34:56 AM
Folks,

Jared did not start this, I did. I did because it is my custom to recognize intelligence and at times brilliance (No, not you Tex, Shawn,Ken ;-) And push them into the limelight.

So Jared has shown himself worthy of advising men who, have questions about building techniques, has shown himself to restrain the DOT in him (Unlike others here) and I believe is capable of herding cats (Managing the men here).

Therefore by the authority vested in me (Cause I pay the bills!) here on this noble web site, I hereby knight thee, Sir Jared, and declare he be from this day fortwith

"Knower and Sayer of All Things Buildith" (NATB)

So let it be written, so let it be done.

Set by decree on this, the day the third day of the twelveth month in the year of our Lord, two thousand and seventeen.










Now get your butt busy!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 03, 2017, 10:56:57 AM
Jared

Your advice has been very helpful on my build.

Would appreciate a discussion of window installation since there is much conflicting information and that is where a lot of leaks occur.

Wood frame construction with tyvek. Fiberglass windows.

I’m planning on using the flex flashing seal on the bottoms and up the side about 6 inches. Cutting house wrap flap at top. Caulk three sides and flash tape sides then top. Going to try to beat the sill up and use shims to make the slope outward since I didn’t plan it when I Built it.

Why the extra housewrap/moisture barrier apron below the window when tyvek is already in place??? 

Help a novice please.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 03, 2017, 12:30:48 PM
It sounds like you are on the right track with your installation plan. I have installed both vinyl windows and aluminum. I will give some installation thoughts.
I go back and forth in the debate over aluminum vs vinyl. Each group swears their chosen type is best. They both have strong points and weak points. Here are some of my personal pros and cons for each. Personally i have no preference and just install what a customer has chosen.
Aluminum
Pros:
Cheaper
No rot
Easy to replace glass and other parts
Cons:
Transfer of hot and cold
Prone to sweat in the winter
Status as a cheap window

Vinyl
Pros
Easy nail flange for installation
Easy to replace glass and parts
Much less transfer of hot and cold
Less window sweating
Better r value due to thermal transfer
Cons
Cost
Shrinkage
Deterioration. This is supposed to be fixed with new formulations.  But, most windows we have to switch out are vinyl due to hail breaking the brittle vinyl. Plastics vs the sun in Texas and the sun wins. 

When purchasing standard windows aluminum and vinyl have different rough openings. Usually***** For discussion I will consider a 3’0” X5’0”. Vinyl rough opening would be 3’1/2”X5’1/2” where the aluminum would be 3’X5’ even. This can change and to get around this if the openings were done backwards would be to special order or alter the rough openings.
Here is a brief rundown of how i install a window. If using the zip system use their tape on the sill and window. I have used the zip system once now and there are good and bad sides to the product. I am not a fan yet.
The house wrap system has a bit different process and that is the one i will spend the most time explaining.
Before i start i cut the tyvek to wrap into the window opening. The top can be cut without wrapping it inside the opening but i wrap it in. This gives me a layer between the window and wood to provide a moisture barrier for the sweating that may occur.
Then i use the moist stop product to wrap the sill and sides up six inches. I am of the opinion that the moist stop product helps because when windows sweat the moisture runs down hill. Due to wrapping the tyvek in you end up with a triangle in the corner that is exposed. It is this corner or corners that will see the most moisture due to gravity and if the window is not perfectly level the water will favor one side. Also, i have had water pass through tyvek. I do not think it should but when we use the stuff to cover holes in roofing or to use as a tarp temporarily water passes. The moist stop will not pass moisture. But, it will not breathe either. Hence why it is used in smaller areas. Just a different product with a different purpose.
The moist stop gets lined up on the inside and extends out. The corners get cut and the product folded over the outer edge. Staple the horizontal piece to the sheeting. Then the sides get folded over but not stapled. I then cut two 6” by 12” pieces one for each corner. This piece goes over the horizontal piece and under the side piece then everything is stapled. These pieces end up pretty diagonal for best coverage. Just do your best to layer the products and shed water out. Any exposed or bad areas then can be taped over with window tape.
The next step is to read the installation instructions for the window you are putting in. They all vary in small ways. Some will want the perimeter siliconed before install. Some will not. Some will require some site applied silicone for best performance and the instructions list these areas. They are usually the upper corners. Some will have a fastener pattern that must be used to retain warranty as well. Then fasten the window to the opening. Most manufacturers will void the warranty if a nail gun is used. They are brutal in their impact of the fastener and this leads to windows which bind. The vinyl windows have a fastener flange. The metal windows need pilot holes drilled. I find the hole is best to drill because it minimizes the risk of damage to a window when you try to hammer a nail through or force a screw to bore through the metal mounting flange.
I use two speed squares to lift the window off the sill which aids in leveling it. Center the window in the opening from side to side. Level the window. Make sure the gap at the top is neither too large or too small. If it is too large add lumber to close the gap at this time. If it is too small use paint stir sticks to reduce the bottom gap. I use a mix of one gallon and five gallon sticks for spacers. This pattern of spacing and gapping should be consistent with all the windows so they do not end up at different levels. This is important if windows are close to each other and trimmed out as a unit.
From here i check everything about the window and its function. Once fastened i window tape the sides and top. There are different thoughts on taping the bottom. Here is what i do since i use moist stop. I tape the bottom leaving a small gap in the center which lacks tape. About 1/2” so water can get out. This keeps it sealed up well for air penetration. Moisture will be able to get out between the moist stop and tyvek already since the window tape does not reach that horizontal area.
These are the steps I use. I have had good luck with them but there are other methods as well that are correct.
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 03, 2017, 01:04:54 PM
Here are two images of a window i did recently. The tape on the bottom runs the length but does not show the slit in the center for any moisture to drain out. You can see how i did the moist stop, tyvek, and tape. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171203/0be73cac39d0e4658401a73dfd9be1e4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171203/b83f84b9c2834fb99b636b7969d99b5b.jpg)
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 03, 2017, 01:10:28 PM
Welcome to the team Jared

Good luck herding the cats  around here


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 03, 2017, 01:15:59 PM
Thanks. This is pretty intimidating for me. I looked up the definition for oracle and it is one who gives advise that is ambiguous or obscure so it took some of the intimidation factor away.
Really though i do enjoy construction and would like to help others if possible. I am certain i will also be learning from everyone else at the same time.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: BobbyB on December 03, 2017, 07:29:58 PM


Set by decree on this, the day the third day of the eleventh month in the year of our Lord, two thousand and seventeen.


I believe that December 3rd is in the twelfth (12th) month of the year. Day 337 on the Julian calendar.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on December 04, 2017, 11:00:03 AM


Set by decree on this, the day the third day of the eleventh month in the year of our Lord, two thousand and seventeen.


I believe that December 3rd is in the twelfth (12th) month of the year. Day 337 on the Julian calendar.
Frickin' NCO's
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on December 04, 2017, 11:03:44 AM
Good job J  :likebutton:

And you looked up "Oracle"...Outstanding!  :likebutton:

^^^This one is gonna work out (Unlike some others around here) :angry:
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: BobbyB on December 04, 2017, 01:31:11 PM
Frickin' NCO's

Such despicable language from someone who belongs to a group of people who wish to be considered Officers and Gentlemen. If I hadn't some decency I would have had to respond in kind.  :cool:
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: cudakidd53 on December 04, 2017, 02:38:13 PM
Frickin' NCO's

Such despicable language from someone who belongs to a group of people who wish to be considered Officers and Gentlemen. If I hadn't some decency I would have had to respond in kind.  :cool:

That’s correct Bobby; such conduct doesn’t “Warrant” a response!  :grin:
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on December 04, 2017, 02:55:18 PM
Frickin' NCO's

Such despicable language from someone who belongs to a group of people who wish to be considered Officers and Gentlemen. If I hadn't some decency I would have had to respond in kind.  :cool:

That’s correct Bobby; such conduct doesn’t “Warrant” a response!  :grin:
Bravo!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 08, 2017, 12:47:50 AM
So what do you guys want me to do with this thread? I am not certain what to do. I have builds and such i can post. But, should those go in a different build thread? A build thread for each one? Or should i start posting stuff we are doing in the hopes it promotes conversation?
How would it be best to proceed? What is the vision for this section? What would be most helpful to the membership?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: OldKooT on December 08, 2017, 07:40:02 AM
Jared... welcome to the forum :laugh:

My advice is to not have any real goal here in this forum. What will happen is topic deviation, due to assorted causes. It's just a matter of time.

Since your the oracle I do have a question. Any thoughts on why Tyvek prints their name all over EVERYTHING that will be covered up?

I just once want to see a house wrapped that says "this side out"
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 08, 2017, 08:28:13 AM
You could start a builder tips portion,  I know when I framed with different guys we all did things a little different, from how each person sheeted a wall before standing it, or what method they used to put in a header over a door, things of that nature might be helpful or tools that you use and review good or bad than buy more new tools


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 08, 2017, 08:34:21 AM
I’d like to see tips on common mistakes that builders make that we should look out for if we are building or checking over someone who is building for us.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: OldKooT on December 08, 2017, 08:49:13 AM
Ok TRN.... I can take pictures of my home remodeling if you really want to see all the things not to do.  :laugh:

I have learned this week that you shouldn't use a chainsaw to remove plaster and lathe. Even with a fan running your wife will smell the chain-saw fumes and declare you a "neanderthal" otherwise it works very well.

On a very less serious note: The proper way to hang a pre hung door would be handy. I need to replace the front door some time in the near future. And I don't want yet another door hanging fiasco like the last one I clearly did something wrong with.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 08, 2017, 10:13:21 AM
Norm me too. I have three 6’0 double doors across the back of my house in the living room and I want to remove and install better quality doors so a primer on installing door would be awesome.  Also should I leave the 2x6 baseplate at the bottom of the rough opening of the entry door in the casita or does that get removed?


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on December 08, 2017, 11:38:07 AM
Just thought of something

Jared is the Oracle of building

You could say "Oracle Jared"

or "OJ" for short

       That's no good!

But if he is the Oracle of Building

Could he be the, "JOB"

Jared, Oracle of building

or

Jared, Oracle of construction, "JOC"

Yea, that's it, JOC

So if you want to ask a question about buildin' something, then, "Ask the JOC"

So let it be written, so let it be done!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 10, 2017, 08:09:25 AM
Pulled over from JRs room addition thread:

Regarding PEX, which is simply the type of cross linked polyethylene tubing, there are several ways to connect it.

There are crimp rings and barb shanks, of which there are hard copper (?) rings that get crushed with a circular crimp pliers, crimp hose clamps that get pinched on one side like a hose clamp. 

There are tool less shark bite fittings where the hose is pressed into a retention and o-ring sealed fitting.

There are fittings over barbs where hard plastic rings are expanded mechanically and then allowed to shrink back to size to secure the joint.

It appears that the tool to crimp the hose clamp style, side crimp are much more affodable than the circular crimpers, and expanders for the plastic rings.

For the occasional use, small job DIY, which is the best system and why?  I am leaning towards the side crimp hose rings because one tool works on 3/8 up to 1 inch

https://youtu.be/Ltu1RdArHAM
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 10, 2017, 09:58:37 AM
I have started looking at other systems also. I think they will all do fine. The key is removing steps which someone could skip which may lead to a leak. When we have guys working for us we try to make it idiot proof or it will get messed up. Too many guys just do not care and when dealing with plumbing this could be expensive.
I use Viega. I just happened into it when my supplier recommended the stuff. The parts are impossible to get last minute on a weekend as they are not readily available like the systems at Lowes and Home Depot.
If i had to do it all over i would do Viega or the sharkbite kit with copper compression rings. I do not trust the barbed fittings with o rings. No reason other than i just wonder how long the o ring will last in the different water quality areas. With some wells around here we have a lot of sulfur and i have seen water eat parts up until properly treated.
The two size tools to stick with for normal installs is 1/2” and 3/4”. The 3/8” in my kit has never been used. The 1” is rarely used and the 1” parts are expensive. I have found it better to design my system using only 1/2” and 3/4”. When i need more flow i feed my manifolds from each end with 3/4” rather than 1” from one end.
The clasp pinch type kit would be ok if you are careful not to over or under tighten it. I think Apollo does that type.
Uponor is the heat stretch/shrink system. I have not used this one yet. I do know our supplier will not carry it because as part of the deal with Uponor they can not carry any other system. When we do repairs or remodels and come across pex we must make sure not to use any other system with the stretch system. I do not know if this has changed yet but that is what we were told a year ago. The plastics act differently so they can not share fitting type.
When we rough in slabs we use a grey pex with memory. It is made by Viega. It has a metal layer that retains shape. When we make connections inside we have a stripper that goes over the outer grey layer and the second metal layer and exposes the inner layer where the fitting crimps.
Here is one manifold i did last week. I fed the manifold on the cold side with 3/4”. It then runs to all my cold drops. After the last drop i feed it again with another full 3/4”. This ensures the water heater gets good flow and the second feed can back feed the manifold if needed to retain balanced flow. The grey pile near the slab is the memory pipe.   (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171210/db182f9e726d26541f9505960f90fe21.jpg)
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 10, 2017, 11:05:11 AM
I am going to go through the steps i use to set doors. This is very hard to teach someone without being with them. There are many steps which are hard to put into words. I will do my best to walk everyone through it. Please ask for clarification if needed.
I can not even begin to describe the pain i feel when i see a door thrown in with no care or concern for looks and function. Sometimes they are in so poorly that they do not even latch. Or so out of wack that the knob and lock are hard to use and snag.
Most of my doors are installed into a hole I framed. Having a properly sized hole and a level/plumb/square hole makes hanging a door much easier. On my current home i am framing it with my daughter. We did the whole frame just the two of us and my wife which included hanging all the beams. I was under no time constraint or budget on the framing so i opted to make my threshold for acceptability be 0-1/8” on everything. I did this because i wanted her to see the correct math and how to apply it. I used ratchet straps and come alongs to hold my walls exactly where i wanted them. This will make installing doors easy.
When you rough in a door (i will assume a 3’0” door for these purposes) you go 2” over the door size. So the rough in width is 3’ 2” or 38”. A 6’ patio door would be 6’2” wide or 74”. I have had some framers go 2 1/2” over because the holes are not square. This leaves a more difficult job as now you have to downsize the hole to center the door.
When i approach an install i check everything about the opening. Use the longest level you can fit. Some doors have bows in the frame that are not easily worked out with short levels. I prefer a 6’ level especially on 8’ doors but a 4’ is fine for setting doors. I check all four ends. If the floor is not level i must know so the reveal on the top is good and the threshold works. I check wall lean. If it leans in the door will want to open and stay partially open. If the wall leans back the door will want to either fully open or fully close. On interior doors there is no threshold but there is a reveal on the top that must be taken in to account. For today i will explain how to install an exterior door.
So i check the floor. The hinge side must be set up with a level floor or the hinge side must be the high side. If it is the low side raise it now before attaching the hinges. This is where most people mess up and by the time they realize it the door is done and they must start over. I set doors with two people for speed and less complexity.
I dry fit the door to get a general idea of what is needed. Then i remove the door and silicone the threshold to the floor.  Do not use liquid nails or any other adhesive that makes it hard or impossible to remove it later. Silicone is pliable once cured. Place a level on the frame hinge side and starting at the top install a 3” screw. This holds the door in place now. Check all door to frame gaps now. If they are close proceed. Add one screw near the hinge on the outside for the second and third hinge. Now raise the knob side if needed to properly gap the top between the door and frame. Hold the frame in position on the wall and put one screw on the top corner side outside first. Then make sure the door properly touches the exterior door frame gasket and attach the remaining two exterior screws. Check door for function and clearance now.
There are five wedge points on a hinge side. These five points can be used to move and adjust a door. They are top corner, hinge one, hinge two, hinge three, and threshold. 
Top corner: use this to pull or push the top.
Hinges all three: these can be wedged to push a door towards the knob side or a screw can be added in place of a hinge screw to pull the door over.
Threshold: you can shim one end or the other to adjust reveals here. Most thresholds are made with a sweep adjustment. Once the door is fully set remove the covers and expose the adjustment screw. This raises or lowers the top of the threshold. Ideally you want the sweep to contact the threshold in such a way as to get a good seal. Too loose and air and insects get in. Too tight and the door is hard to swing and the threshold will prematurely wear out.
A shim placed anywhere else on the hinge side only serves to move the immediate area.
I always remove at least one screw per hinge. I remove the one with the most grab on a stud and replace it with a like colored 3”-4” screw for strength.
On the knob side any shimming only acts locally unless at the top or bottom corner where the threshold or top can force the door to move.
If i like the door i then finish fastening the knob side. I use three more 3” screws mirroring the ones used outside. Use shims to keep the screws from pulling the door and opening up the reveal.
I have seen many improperly installed dead bolts. I like to use screws to grab framing so the door is secure. The rod that extends from the lock must click and lock down. If the hole is too shallow the rod does not lock in the proper position and a flat tool can walk it back in and unlock the door.
I am a fan of jigs. I have jigs for everything. On my doors i use a 1/2” thick jig to simulate sheetrock thickness. This will place my frame into the room in the proper position for sheetrock.
Patio doors and french doors use the same techniques to install. They just have an extra hinge side to adjust. I have stopped installing french doors on my personal homes.  They are not secure as shipped. You can press the door at the top and bottom on the knob side to reveal the keeper of the fixed side. A screw driver then lifts the stops and the door swings in with the deadbolt still in the locked position. Two of my homes have been broken into this way. We ended up putting floor pins in to keep this from happening.  I also like to install reinforcement in the form of metal straps placed between the frame and wall or placed on the outside of the stud under the sheetrock. Anything added to make it take longer to kick in is a good thing. It buys you more time to prepare for an intruder.
It is important to make sure the door works with flooring and is not a trip hazard so sill plates are removed before doors go in.
I know i have probably left more questions than i answered. The variables are many when setting doors and you just take your time and work through them. So please if anyone wants to add anything please do. If there are questions or if clarification is needed please ask.
Here is a photo of my rear door installed. There is a strap near the lock to help make it a bit more secure. The lock is only the construction lock. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171210/32cff4163a2d9fb6bb8b44b7aa5cee46.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171210/d7a3aff53c2961a667f587764be4378f.jpg)
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 10, 2017, 11:29:33 AM
Jared... welcome to the forum :laugh:

My advice is to not have any real goal here in this forum. What will happen is topic deviation, due to assorted causes. It's just a matter of time.

Since your the oracle I do have a question. Any thoughts on why Tyvek prints their name all over EVERYTHING that will be covered up?

I just once want to see a house wrapped that says "this side out"
I invite all forms of conversation including all deviations from the material currently discussed. I think tyvek printed their name everywhere so they could see my head explode when i drive around and see it upside down.  If that was not bad enough now the retailers have their name all over it as well. Mine reads Lowes about every 12” also.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 10, 2017, 11:29:44 AM
good stuff Jared.  thanks for sharing.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 10, 2017, 12:11:41 PM
I found a good chart on the pex universe website describing the three different types. From the look of it i am using type b and should keep doing so. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171210/27edc387fd7b7e5a86792b920fac4735.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171210/307fb5b1c3b29028a9b99cca45a429ea.jpg)
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: OldKooT on December 10, 2017, 12:13:13 PM
Interesting reading....ty

I found with my door install it went much simpler one I started "machining" my framing lumber. My home is built of Fir... if you try to use modern pine while remodeling it ends poorly. The shrink/swell rates are much different.

You couldn't give me a modern "pine" home.

Interesting trivia: I have enough reclaimed oak/fir/white pine/ash in my lumber racks to build a 2800sq ft home. This includes 3/4 x10" tong n groove planks for the outside walls/roof. Oak/maple hard wood flooring....main floor joists (3x12) you name it. Between all that wood, the pella windows, copper pipe, and about 40 oak doors I have $1700 invested. I figure since I can dig my own hole for the foundation...I should be able to build it for $30k.  If I ever get the ambition and time LoL









Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 10, 2017, 01:30:01 PM
You are fortunate to have access to such great materials. I would be tempted to find the time just to see something like that get built and last way into the future when we are all gone.
I have a large surplus of materials since i use to keep all the leftovers from jobs to carry forward to the next. Before i knew it i had forgotten what i had. I inventoried most of it when i sold my home and am using it on my new home to cut costs. I have since gone to a keep nothing policy and return what i can. What i can not use i give to friends and family to use.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on December 10, 2017, 06:07:43 PM
Wow Jared, you have great timing. I'm helping my brother install doors next weekend, 5 exterior and a truck load of interior. I've done a couple in the past, but you laid it out in a way that should help greatly Thank you.

We are doing all copper in his house, no pex. Call us old school, but the idea of all those crimp connections, (along with using plastic in Az) makes me feel like J. Comey...all queasy.

Sidenote: had a professional plumber (30+years), and a good friend, replace the shower mixer that failed in my old casa recently. He doesn't ever use o-ring, Sharkbite style fittings for copper or pex. He said the o-rings can, and will, fail eventually. Mine was right at 10 years old and was starting to leak....I had installed a high dollar Kohler and used Sharkbite fittings on a couple lines.
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 10, 2017, 06:27:45 PM
Copper is great. We still use it at the customers request. The issue is with its quality. It is not like it use to be. It is thinner than the stuff from 20 years ago. It has also gotten very expensive. I find that i have to shape it to get it round again.
One good quality that is rarely talked about with copper is that the fittings go on the outside of the pipe. This allows for greater flow than any of the pex fittings i have seen which go in the pipe and choke flow.
Just make sure it does not touch different metals especially galvanized pipe. Also make sure it does not contact any rebar in the slab. When we run copper in concrete i use utility sleeve to protect it. It is the heavy low pressure black stuff you see run on ranches for troughs and drip irrigation systems and such. No rebar can reach it now and it is safe from the concrete and rebar guys. Then if it pops a leak you can see which conduit it is in and pull another piece of copper through.
We had one house with a metal roof get hit by lightning. It actually caused the solder joints to start leaking. Almost as if the solder melted. I have always wondered exactly what happened before it failed. But, lightning messes stuff up and pex would be damaged as well.  It was just an odd situation.
I use sharkbite o ring fittings for emergency repair work. The type of repair where i do not have my tools and need the water on right away. I come back and remove the sharkbite and pinch another pipe or fitting in.
Thinking about it i can remember why i switched to pex. No salvage value. I had two spec homes going in in New Braunfels and there was a crime wave. This was in 05 ish. The thieves would rip the copper out the night after it was installed. Right before rebar went in. I had to switch to pex so they would leave it alone. The black utility sleeve may have hid it but i could not risk it.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on December 10, 2017, 09:36:49 PM
Yeah, copper thieves were really bad around here a few years back, when new construction was hot and heavy. Some were hooking trucks to service panels and ripping out the underground power feeds from the transformers, not to mention the plumbing. The police got together with the salvage yards and got them to start documenting scrap copper. If you go there now, better have a fake ID and a great story as to how you came up with 5 wheelbarrows full of #002 cable with the insulation burned off! lol
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 10, 2017, 10:22:18 PM
well in Dallas some thieves got burned (literally) when they tried to steal some live wire

(https://ashlianne.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/image006.jpg)
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 11, 2017, 05:21:41 AM
 Not sure what to say. I hate thieves but that is terrible. Thinning the gene pool.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: OldKooT on December 11, 2017, 10:30:13 AM
I will agree quality thick copper is not as easy to buy as it use to be. I got lucky, a local city tore down a old school. I bought the gym floor and the copper boiler pluming for $300. I have been using that stash for 10 years now and haven't hardly dented it LoL

Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 11, 2017, 01:04:37 PM
Norm, you been featured on an episode of “Hoarders” yet?? :stickpoke


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: OldKooT on December 11, 2017, 01:11:31 PM
No TRN.... much like they won't allow me on Naked and Afraid because.... skills =P

Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on December 11, 2017, 06:35:58 PM
^^^^Oh boy.

I'm waiting for American Pickers to show up. I have a feeling they would need counciling afterwards!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on December 11, 2017, 11:55:10 PM
I see Norms place as a kind of Sanford and son setup.

Norm always trying to do the right thing and a lot of loud complaining and of course thousands of square feet covered in junk!

I mean that boy has everything under the sun. Wouldn't be surprised is when he removes some pile of wood, he finds another crew cab dodge sitting there!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on December 17, 2017, 10:50:44 PM
I had a buddy in Santa Rosa who had stuff like Norm. Mostly outside but I could walk for hours looking for vehicles and parts. Alway bought everyone lunch and nothing but cash.                                 
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 21, 2017, 08:17:12 AM
I thought i would take a second to write about a couple of items that would be helpful to those doing construction. Recently we got a job to help finish a home another builder had started and semi abandoned. The home is about 6000 ft and custom. I had forgotten how helpful a couple of my tricks are that this home does not have.
1) BEFORE sheetrock go around each wall and make a pencil/sharpie mark on the floor to show all hazards. Then mark each and every stud. If the home is going to have stained concrete where marks can not be made do them in such a way that the trim will hide them. This makes installing cabinets and trim MUCH faster and easier. There is no guessing where studs are and no damage to wiring or plumbing. After sheetrock/tape/float/and paint transfer the marks to the wall but under where the trim will be. If the room gets carpet just leave them on the floor. This makes doing trim exponentially faster and the trim holds better when nailed to the studs. This particular home has 5/8” sheetrock on all walls and most are insulated. This makes the use of a stud finder more difficult and inaccurate. Right before insulation and sheetrock video tape the entire home. This along with your marks will help locate any boxes that the sheet rockers fail to cut out when hanging the drywall. 
2) Do not use compression type shutoff valves for plumbing fixtures. If the stub outs are too short and a valve needs to be replaced you will be doing demo of the cabinet or wall to get to the pipe to add another valve. Once a compression ring is pressed on it will no longer slide off the pipe. What i do is use 1/2” male adaptors soldered on. This makes it easy to install a brass cap to pressure test then just screw on the valve after walls are painted. If it ever fails just unscrew it and add another. 
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on December 21, 2017, 10:56:07 AM
Good ideas. Did that on my add on with the studs plus I had wiring that were in other spots. All marked. Blue/green tape on the floor works good to and you can write on it so no floor issues.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: OldKooT on December 21, 2017, 11:04:59 AM
I always predrill and use loose fitting nails for base trim because the person who built our home used 5" long structural nails to hold on the trim. He's lucky he's already dead....
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 21, 2017, 01:04:46 PM
When using that wide butyl tape to flash windows be extra careful and don't let ANY of the butyl tape touch its self.........

It instantly welds itself to itself....

Don't ask me how I know.....
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on December 21, 2017, 03:54:22 PM
I found that out also ^^. We must have wasted 10 feet of that crap.
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 21, 2017, 04:05:51 PM
If you ever want better adhesion of window tape to window tape or window to tape use a heat gun. 
This house we are doing is a mess without any markings or photos of any kind. The builder skipped ceiling boxes, light boxes, no care or concern for a quality build.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on December 21, 2017, 09:13:04 PM
I'm thinking of capturing these pearls and putting them in a sticky

Who's moddin' this area?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on December 23, 2017, 02:36:18 AM
Jared, Adding 1 inch foil backed foam to a wall that gets lots of direct summer heat. Wall is standard 2x4 and will have roxul r15 batt for insulation.

Plan on spacing the wall out for the 1in foam as not to compress the roxul. Foil side goes out vs in like on a roof?
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 23, 2017, 09:30:32 AM
JR, yes the foil faces out when installed on a wall. Your project is looking great. I do not know the science behind this but would imagine on a roof that the foil facing out would make for a very slippery surface. Years ago, when the manufacturers started adding this shield to roof decks, i read about why the foil faces in on an attic and there was another reason discussed. Now you have me curious also. I will look it up. Great question.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 23, 2017, 09:52:29 AM
JR, i looked this up and am seeing different answers. The foam board we have installed always had two foil sides. The side with the writing was more reflective and went out. On roofing the foil faces in because the foil is more effective when facing an air space and is installed in such a way as to minimize dust staying on it. When installed on a wall neither side has a better air space as it will touch either insulation or siding/facade. With the foil facing out any condensation that forms on the foil layer could be weatherproofed to shed water out. Whereas if that layer was facing in waterproofing would be a bit more difficult.
Does the manufacturer of the product you have chosen have a specific installation procedure?
Does anyone else know the best way to install the product?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 23, 2017, 10:09:26 AM
JR, i think i am turned around. Your home and addition has siding on if i remember correctly. Is the foam going on the inside of the wall under the sheetrock? If so i would face the reflective side out. You will need to make sure the sheetrock screws to wood and not the foam as the screw will be difficult to keep hidden under joint compound. The material would pop off of the head exposing the screw on a finished wall. It is not a hard enough surface between the sheetrock and stud wall.
There are other products that look like reflective foil bubble wrap that might be better suited for an installation between the sheetrock and wood stud. Just make sure that the product you use can be installed in the manner you want to install it.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 23, 2017, 10:49:39 AM
My understanding is that the foil is only effective if it does not touch anything. It blocks radiation but is still conductive. If anything is touching it, like insulation then it’s better just to use plain foam.  It must have an air space to keep the radiation from transmitting


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on December 23, 2017, 12:02:58 PM
From what I have read and why I asked is when facing in on the roof you need the ventilated airspace with foil down. I have the airspace with reflective OSB.

For the wall the foam would be against the outside wall. So between the OSB with housewrap, then the insulation, vapor barrier and sheetrock.

I understand with the foil only barriers they need an airspace, moving or not.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on December 23, 2017, 01:06:15 PM
Back in 05 i was framing a house out on some farm land. The neighbor was also framing his home next door. At the end of the day he came over and ripped on us for using osb sheeting. He had done osb on the corners and foam board everywhere else. We were both sheeting that same day. That night we had straight line winds. There was zero foam board left on his house. So i made sure to walk over and see how he liked his foam board.
We have also used gyp lap in the past. I do not see it as often anymore. Went in just like sheeting the outside. If i remember correctly they were 2’X8’ pieces.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 23, 2017, 08:07:15 PM
Not sure I’m tracking 100% JR. However as long as you have airspace the foil will be effective. I suppose that if you are keeping heat out then foil goes out. If I’m cold climate the foil would go in?


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on December 23, 2017, 09:24:52 PM
Yep, think we're on the same page.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on December 23, 2017, 09:26:14 PM
Good. I was worried for a
Minute. I’m getting slow


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Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on December 25, 2017, 08:55:22 AM
Well now I am slightly confused,   I have intention of insulating my enclosed cargo trailer.  I was planning on putting my aluminum insulation facing out.   I would put 1 inch in between the vertical wall supports ( wall supports are 1inch) , than put some small 1/2 inch wood strips over that foam and apply more insulation over that wood and tape seams.    Which direction would I want my aluminum backed foam?   In the summer I would want to keep heat out, winter I will want to keep heat in.    Trailer will be heated and air conditioned as well

Thoughts?


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 04, 2018, 08:49:52 AM
Jared, bought a prehung fiberglass door yesterday and it was hung for 2x4 walls.  I get the need for jamb extensions, but the threshhold is confusing me a bit.

I followed your instructions on hanging the door.  sub floor was level (thank the Lord) and plumbed the hinge side.

I accounted for the depth of sheetrock to be installed so that the frame will be flush with the sheetrock when installed.

The door is not perfectly true and the upper corner of the door lacks about 3/16 from being flush with the frame when shut, like the bottom is (it still engages the weather strip)

question 1: Should I install the latch side out of plumb by that amount to make the door sit perfectly flush to the frame?

question 2: The threshold of the door when framed into the 2x6 wall leaves a small part of the subfloor/subsill exposed in front of the threshold.  How do you deal with that?  A metal pan, a ripped down piece of treated calked and painted?

Any advice or pictures would be appreciated
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on January 04, 2018, 06:24:38 PM
When i buy doors that go into a 2x6 wall i get threshold extensions. I also have frames made to fit a 2x6 opening. I prefer to order these extensions and or thicker jambs to avoid the build out. I usually get these from Mccoys. If you can not get an extension you will need to seal that area well. Otherwise water will run under the door and rot the underlayment. You can flush the door out with the exterior and build up the inside. The only issue with this is if the door opens too wide before it hits a stop then the door contacts these extensions and ruins the door and hinges if they get hit hard enough. This is why doors and frames get flushed out with the hinge side wall most often. Ideally you want your threshold to extend beyond the floor so as to create a drip lip so water is shed away from the underlayment. If you do not want to move the door out you can make one from cedar or hardwood as a threshold extension. Also, trex or the composite deck stuff works well. Just seal it to the metal one. If your door is protected by a porch you should be golden as much less water will run down the face of the door.
If you can not find a threshold extension flush the door out with the outside area. I always plumb my hinge side first. If the wall is crooked with the top wall leaning in or out i split the difference. Then go to the knob side top and match it to what you did on the hinge side at the top. Then from there you do not use a level. If the hinge side is plumb and level and the top knob side is in or out or flush to match the hinge side top you use the door as a guide and equally touch the door to the seal. This matches the frame to the door seal. You do not want to plumb the knob side in such a way that leaves you with poor seal contact.
My daughter and i just got done hanging doors in a 6000 ft house. These are solid core paint grade doors and weigh a ton. The framers were in a hurry and the door rough openings are neither plumb or square. All doors were ordered for 2x4 walls and many are 2x6. On top of that the frames were for 1/2” sheetrock. The whole home ceiling and walls are 5/8 sheetrock. So it was a nightmare to hang all the doors. Some rough openings were so bad that they went 1/2” over normal and i pinned the doors corner to corner square and tight and ran out of room. The doors look perfect but it was not easy. Tomorrow I start trimming them and that is going to be a party.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on January 04, 2018, 06:33:16 PM
I will get photos tomorrow to help describe what i am doing. This will also show all the issues I had and the solutions i chose to make the doors work and look great. It will not be easy but when i am done no one will ever have any idea of the opening issues. All doors also sit and function perfectly. No automatic openers or closers or doors that move because it is hung wrong.
The variables with hanging a door are limitless. The doors have built in pressure points that can move the entire door one way or another with just some shimming or hinge work. I am finding the companies that hang these doors are letting the pre hung quality really slip. I usually work on every single door i install to make corrections before i ever hang it. At some point I will be forced into slabs and a hinge jig to avoid all these issues.
If anyone ever wants to call me with specific questions pm me and i will give you my number.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on January 04, 2018, 10:06:06 PM
One thing that has helped with these heavy doors is using screws through the jams so they could be sucked up or let loose while adjustments are being made. Nails are harder to adjust. When you get the door hung where you want it set the shims with some brads or finish nails. These screws make making small adjustments easier. Do not forget to counter sink the screws. I use a pilot bit with a bore tip so it is a one step process. Then i start three screws on each side so they are ready when the door is in the proper location.
Brad nailing the shims is the last step. Otherwise they always end up falling out for me and the door gets out of wack.
If the door contacts the knob side remove a hinge screw that is closest to the center of the jamb so it will catch stud and replace the 3/4” screw with a 3” black screw or brass screw etc so they match. This pulls the door away from the knob side of the jamb.
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: rpar86 on January 05, 2018, 01:15:45 AM
I had a door hung the way Jared described (flushed to the outside with jamb extensions on the inside). It was annoying having the striker running across those extensions every time you closed it. I ended up pulling it out and reinstalled it with the jamb extensions on the outside and got a sill extender. I think it was sold as a kit at Home Depot... maybe special order for the JeldWen door, can’t remember.

Here’s said door before I fixed it (deck had been torn down outside, hence the caution tape).

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/8327fc5a2e6433a2e066c68f8bd89e19.jpg)


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 05, 2018, 01:52:54 PM
I got it all in and adjusted the strike side to fit the weather strip. Just need to rip jamb extensions and figure out a threshold extension.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 05, 2018, 01:53:48 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/911ed236417d70d4b32795216a13c86b.jpg)

Since this is under a porch I won’t lose sleep over it.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on January 05, 2018, 06:51:55 PM
Here is a problematic door i did today. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/2015b673ab6832dbc21ff1d89a875ab3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/b7e4be9298a955bebb339293e87ec069.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/d598ad82f535fee7cf39c391544f5546.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/f50a9d3920f4947e688c75b8c92ad54e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/1c95a7ab01e88c2f9982d6dd17145996.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/4375b10195129de9f4fb344f8e551177.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/74c44d93c6896c590de578b938232d81.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/af263ed800c33151a8b4596d3245b9da.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/06ebf059fdf89920cab72c0040af6682.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/a30cd9faff605a7b3e82f3c7494e9633.jpg)
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 06, 2018, 03:50:14 PM
Minus the shims still there. How do you like this frame to door (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180106/1dd19232e518b587378ce85d96b5b267.jpg)

Buddy called and asked if I knew how to hang a door.  I laughed and said yeah.  Just read a how to on it lol

It’s been a few years but as definitely a good refresh


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Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on January 06, 2018, 08:44:06 PM
It looks good. One thing to watch for is the clearance on the knob side top. In the photo it looks tight. But, that could just be an illusion with my phone due to the angle and the door not being 100% shut. But other than that the door looks well done. Your hinge side gap looks perfect. That door is hung better than 99% of the doors i see. That is a good percentage as i am never 100% satisfied with my own door hanging. Sometimes there is a give and take with a poorly framed opening. I have seen doors so bad that the knob strike does not grab. I have had homeowners just deal with that for years. I have also had doors bind so bad that the knob binds. The hinges were spring putting a lot of pressure on the door to pull away from the stop knob side.
One issue i am seeing is the companies hanging these doors on the frames before we purchase them are installing the back cut in the wrong direction. When you get into thicker doors or fine finishing the knob side of the door must be back cut. The door companies usually buy slabs and hang the door, template and route out the hinges and drill out the knob. The diagonal point of the door where the door approaches the knob side of the frame is shorter on the side of the door that touches the stop. This allows it to pivot close to the frame without touching. Then the opposite side of the door on the knob side is longer. This closes the reveal to a tighter tolerance. If you look at the top of your doors you will likely see a back cut. Sometimes it is hard to see unless you have a square. It is usually about 1/8”.
When this back cut is backwards the stop side of the door impacts the frame. Then when you force it shut it gaps. This leaves a less than ideal gap. Then if the door is close but not impacting the frame the installer walks away and the painter shows up. The paint thickness on the door and the frame eat away at your once tight clearance and it impacts again.
When door manufacturers get this back cut wrong it complicates things. Sometimes this back cut which should be on the knob side is on the hinge side. This causes gapping issues.
One of these gapping issues is a door that feels like it is springing away from the frame stop knob side. This is because the hinges were installed incorrectly or this back cut is on the wrong side. There are times where i loosen a hinge and slide in a plastic spacer. These spacers go under the leading or trailing edge of the hinge jamb side. The sort of plastic that is used for banding on cardboard boxes. If the plastic is installed on the outer edge of the door under the hinge close to the edge it will open the reveal on the hinge side in turn closing the gap on the knob side. This takes the springy feeling away if the gap was too tight and the door is impacting the frame on the hinge side. Some of this springy feeling is because the manufacturer did not fully route under the hinge on either side. Or they installed the screws crooked and a screw head is impacting the hinge face binding it.
The opposite will happen if that plastic strip is put under the hinge closer to the stop. This will close the gap on the hinge side and give you more room on the knob side. These plastic bands can be doubled up or tripled up. Any more than that and other methods need to be used. It is unlikely to ever need more than two.
I am afraid i am starting to muddy the waters. There are hundreds of large and small techniques to adjust a door. I have all those in a bag of tricks i have used for twenty years. These are very hard to teach someone over the internet. It takes someone standing beside me with a bad door and a worse opening.
It will be interesting to see how the doors go in on my personal home. I framed it with my daughter and walked her very slowly through the framing process. My house is mathematically perfect. Something that is hard to do on a paying job. One area where i miscalculated is shrinkage. When i patterned my top plate to my bottom plate i did not account for the extra shrinkage of the wet pressure treated wood. This has allowed the bottom to contract more than the top. In some areas where we have nine foot ceilings the difference from base to top is 1/16” in that span. But, that is the worst area i could fine. Everything else is set to absolute zero.
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on January 06, 2018, 09:30:01 PM
I have been trying to figure out the best way to move this thread forward. I have gone back and forth. Here is my plan and i will leave it here. If there are no objections and if Don is ok with this format we will proceed. If not we will figure something else out.
I see this thread as a discussion and question and answer area. A place where we all share knowledge and learn from each other. I am planning on learning from the input given to me from you guys. I want to improve my own skillset as well as help others avoid pitfalls i have personally been in. I would like my mistakes pointed out so i can better my work. I am never offended at all especially with constructive criticism.
I do many different trades and jump around from job to job as well as building my own home slowly with my family. If i had a thread for every job or task i think we would be jumping back and forth and something would be lost and it would be confusing for everyone especially me. I am afraid i will have questions asked to me that i overlook. What i am considering is just posting my work here in the hopes that it will start a discussion on every aspect that you guys have interest in. Personally i do not care where the discussion goes based on the jobs we are all doing and the questions we all have. I would like to make it picture heavy. This will take some time on my part to gather images and post when i have wifi or a way to upload quickly.
I am planning on going back to square one with my personal home on here. I have tons of photos. Then just add work that i am doing for customers.
Anyway, what do you guys want to do? Where do we go from here?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on January 06, 2018, 09:33:16 PM
I like the way this thread is working!
 :likebutton:
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on January 06, 2018, 09:53:42 PM
Good plan Jared
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 06, 2018, 11:00:29 PM
I think the question answer portion can be very helpful.  Much like the what did you do today thread that has many topics of many actions it leads to good learning and communication. Maybe as we find detailed descriptions of how to do something here we can have one of the mods pull it out into its own searchable thread

As for posting photos it’s super easy on a smart phone with the Tapatalk app, I think a large portion of us use it that way. Don posts on his computer where I would have to unload a house to find mine.

I would like to see how to do finish work, did lots of ruff framing but maybe one or two homes of trim, base, case and so forth. 

With my home we are building I will be doing all of the tile work and will document as I do that.


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Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on January 08, 2018, 04:43:41 PM
Today i picked up a handy tool at Home Depot. The house we are installing trim on has 5/8” fire rated sheetrock walls with a very thick Monterey drag texture. The original builder did not transfer stud marks or hazards to the ground so now it is a guessing game. My stud finder is having a hard time getting through these thick walls. I was looking at better stud finders and came across a cheap solution from a company that focusses on hiring vets and is made in the USA sold at homedepot. 
The concept is so simple i did not think this $10 tool would work. It is a plastic pointed handle with two magnets in it. You go back and forth on the wall until it finds a sheetrock screw or nail. I was shocked at what happened when i found the first nail. The magnet is so strong it pulled the tool out of my hand and cut my finger when it slapped against the wall. The top magnet grabbed a fastener and the lower magnet pivoted the upper magnet against the metal and it dropped pointing down with gravity. Shockingly great in its function and simplicity. I give this item two thumbs and one bloody finger up. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180108/7e9dd8d7fa6f16f511d6e61a5afd0ca1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180108/cf5ad76c7664205549c04c93e437b6b7.jpg)
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 08, 2018, 05:22:47 PM
What if the drywaller sucks and misses lol


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on January 09, 2018, 08:08:25 AM
Usually the screw will not be sub flush with a mis. If it is a nail then usually the drywall will pop off and expose the loose nail. The real issue is this thing may pull the nails and screws out of the wood.LOL. It is amazing that some magnets can be so strong. There are warnings about placing this magnet near anything like credit cards and pacemakers.
I have two rolling magnets we use to remove roofing nails from job sites after a new roof is installed. We also use them to clean up after a framing job. The first time i thought the magnet was just real heavy but it was magnetized to the rebar in the concrete. I hate moving that magnet in anything but my trailer. I always wondered if it would ruin the trucks computers. One customer with a pacemaker took one look at the magnet and could not leave fast enough.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 09, 2018, 12:28:20 PM
Yes. I have some collar stays for my dress shirts that have neodymium magnets to hold the collar. About the size of a small hearing aid battery and hard to pull apart.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 19, 2018, 07:06:06 PM
Insulation under the basement concrete floor?
I feel like I have seen this done before, dig foundation hole, underlay pipe, backfill gravel, lay down blue insulation, pour concrete on top of..... am I up in the night?
Is this of value?


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on January 19, 2018, 07:20:15 PM
I am afraid i am of little help here. In Texas we do not use basements. When we hide bunkers underground and under buildings due to our climate insulation down there is of little value.
Does anyone else know the answer?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on January 19, 2018, 08:31:22 PM
In kentucky, the basements receive natural heating from the still... So I guess I couldn't comment  :facepalm:
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Sammconn on January 19, 2018, 08:48:33 PM
I've noticed some of it in some of the new construction up here.
Have no idea on details.

But yes I've seen blue under the slab.
Blue on the walls, and several feet out from the walls at about the four foot level.

I have no ideas on the what fors, and we deal in permafrost at depth, but yes I've seen it.

Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on January 25, 2018, 06:04:56 AM
basements in texas are indoor swimming holes...

Dave, what I udnerstand, and I am by no means an expert, is that insulating under a slab is really only done for slabs that will have radiant heat.

Areas above grade are usually insulated in colder climates because they become an unlimited heat sink.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on January 25, 2018, 06:56:55 AM
Dave, unless you live in the artic it’s not needed under a basement slab. Reality is it has to do with how deep the frost line is in your area. Here in Co where I live it is 30” max, NE IN was more around 40” or so. Obviously you want to be below frost lines with the insulation. We just set it on outside of wall at top of footer in Indiana. Guys who cheated would back fill a bit & cut foam board in half. Inspectors would see it sticking out of ground once the entire basement was backfilled and sign off on the inspection, so pay attention there. Here in Colorado they don’t seem to run blue board on the outside (most likely due to higher cost). What they do here is line all the exterior walls inside with bat insulation covered in a white plastic. It’s not near as good as the foam blue board we use on exteriors back in Indiana in my opinion but it meets the min R value. We used blue board on exterior shop foundations as well to help with heating them which is worth noting.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on January 25, 2018, 08:39:02 AM
So I have dug a bit more into it.  Seems as my house will be out of the ground mostly.  Only 40 inches for me to dig in for the basement, my home will mostly be a daylight basement as they call it.   No point in insulation under the slab.  Or on the exterior walls since it will be a really short concrete wall.  Regular expanding foam is what’s on the plan. Or blown in behind the mesh net


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on February 20, 2018, 08:52:25 AM
I wanted to walk through some steps i use to do trim work inside a house. Before i learned how to do trim i just cut every corner at a 45. This was time consuming and not very accurate. If the board was too short it got tossed aside. If it was too long the joints would not work properly and the wall would/could develop a crack just above the joint. Or i would be making small incremental cuts on the saw.
What i do now is work through a room counter clock wise because i am right handed. If a wall is longer than the material those pieces get 45 degree cuts. I try to end those spots on a stud if the trim is 5 1/4” or taller. The shorter stuff can be nailed into the baseplate and hold ok. But, i still try to find a stud. When i have to join two pieces i have the shorter length be at least 32”. If the material is too short it looks odd to me. Every joint that is made to lengthen a run is glued with wood glue or some similar paintable material.
The first piece of trim will sit square in the corner with 90 degree cuts. If the piece is too long trim it to fit. If the piece is slightly too short tighten it up on the right side. This leaves it maybe 1/8” short on the left. This is ok. The second piece will cover any shortfall. This is where the trim goes faster with this method as the pieces can be short and not perfect and are still usable. I still try to get my tolerances to 1/16” though.
Place the second trim piece on the chop saw and cut the end off at a 45 degree cut. This will reveal the trim pattern that you will cut with a sharp coping saw.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/b4225806b944f327984122540555d0f4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/7fe4a78f98a6ac4b053847bfed394213.jpg)
The coped part will be slightly back cut also.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/7ebefac8349a8e321de4ae776069fd10.jpg)
If your first piece was too short the shortfall will be hidden as the pieces puzzle together.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/6ff492bb9e1afd2edcbefe74c55cbda8.jpg)
That takes care of all inside corners. Outside corners get a 45 or 22 1/2 degree cut. Also glue these cuts together for a better installation. When you have rounded corners the flat back of the rounded piece will measure 5/8” 9 out if 10 times. Most round corners are the same. There is a smaller version but those get trimmed with a 90 degree.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/583e2124ab052894933356d96c1ac20b.jpg)
In the above photo you will see jigs. I use jigs everywhere to eliminate guessing. Every rounded corner gets 1 1/8” 18 gauge brads and the piece glued down. If a larger fastener is used the trim will crack. The remaining trim gets 15 or 16 gauge 2” fasteners.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/95811786db10c7ea93b6c15caa65fe08.jpg)
There is not much more to trim than that. Just a lot of practice will improve the results.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on February 20, 2018, 09:59:41 AM
Nice write up on the trim, never had to deal with rounded corners but now I know.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on February 20, 2018, 10:31:44 AM
Coping the profile is the way to go. Especially on crown molding.  When I first started I thought I needed a fancy saw for crown but learned better.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on February 20, 2018, 11:48:15 AM
Right on time I am about ready to do mine and have a couple round corners. Sure wish they made a piece for that.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on February 20, 2018, 03:56:35 PM
Right on time I am about ready to do mine and have a couple round corners. Sure wish they made a piece for that.

You could always soak a piece then form it & make your own.....
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on February 20, 2018, 06:12:16 PM
I thought about making one, well 2. Maybe on my lathe. Not made for wood but a little can't hurt.

Bending that corner will not work, too tight.
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on February 20, 2018, 06:12:22 PM
We have talked about pex in the past here. I am helping finish this 6000 ft house and they used a mix of sharkbite and apollo clamps. They used a mix of apollo and sharkbite fittings. Everything was the clamp style. I usually use Viega and am comfortable with it. But, at half the price for the fittings i did a TON more research to see how to handle this. About two days worth with calls to sharkbite and apollo.
Here is what i found. The pex is the same size in each type being A, B, or C. So i use type b and can buy any brand type b and be ok. I will use either Viega or sharkbite pex pipe. They are made in the US. Apollo pex pipe is made in China. Viega fittings are made in Italy or the US. Sharkbite and apollo are Chinese fittings. Apollo tools are Chinese made. Sharkbite tools are US made. Around here Lowes has sharkbite and Home Depot has Apollo and a few sharkbite mixed in. The stuff at Home Depot is the sharkbite fittings only. They do not sell the sharkbite clamps.
The fittings are generally, almost 100%, the same OD so the fittings work with each others clamps. The builder here mixed apollo and sharkbite clamps with the fittings. But, they only had an apollo clamping tool. They said this was ok but my research says it is not. Some were leaking. I had to reclamp several. All will have issues where the apollo tool clamped a sharkbite clamp and vice versa. The sharkbite tool is calibrated to pinch their own clamps. Apollo will pinch their own clamps. DO NOT MIX APOLLO CLAMPS WITH A SHARKBITE TOOL. DO NOT MIX A SHARKBITE CLAMP WITH APOLLO TOOL. The sharkbite tool is calibrated to its own clamp and does not close as far as an apollo tool will on their own clamp. This could lead to leaks or broken clamps which may present themselves some time in the future. No leak now equals a possible leak later. One way would be to recalibrate the tool with the go no go gauge. This may allow the tool to basically crimp a competitors clamp. The difference is .001”. 
The Viega fittings are expensive. They are bronze. The sharkbite and apollo fittings are copper. The copper could suffer dezincification. This is likely with manufacturing of the materials in China. There were recent lawsuits with Zurn fittings that had the zinc leach out and the fittings crumbled. This issue is not one a bronze fitting will suffer.
So now i own the viega tools and the sharkbite tools. The sharkbite tools are much cheaper and one tool crimps 3/8-1”. Where the viega has a separate tool for each size.
I will only be using Viega on my personal homes. If a customer chooses i will do sharkbite. I can also source fittings more easily when we do repair work. Viega is only offered at actual plumbing shops around here. 
I did find the sharkbite push to connect fittings are rated for wall burial where access is limited or non existent. I wonder how this will pan out in the future when the o ring that seals dries up and starts leaking. Maybe they never will but that is not what i have seen of very old o rings.
Apollo and Sharkbite also have a copper crimp ring tool and kit. These must have each crimp checked with a go no go gauge. This copper ring is not to be buried. The stainless clamps are rated for ground burial if that matters.
Anyway, what are you guys seeing or finding about this pex stuff? I imagine in the near future these clamps will be standardized or maybe not. Using a mix of fittings and clamps with the wrong tool could be an out on a warranty claim.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on February 20, 2018, 08:29:37 PM
I personally would never install a fitting that contains an o-ring connection, behind a wall. O-rings will fail at some point, just the nature of the beast. The one time I did (sharkbite quick connect style), it failed. Of course, this is just my opinion, and probably worthless...so carry on.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bob Smith on February 20, 2018, 09:12:26 PM
Ken, I don't think that is just your opinion. It is so hard to get the right stuff to repair a problem area. 
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: rpar86 on February 20, 2018, 09:55:30 PM
My house is all Uponor expander-type fittings. Recently I cut and re-routed my 1” main line to the garage so I could plumb in a water softener and the 20-30 joints I made have had zero leaks. Piece of cake to do with the Milwaukee expander tool I rented from Ferguson.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on February 20, 2018, 10:38:51 PM
I think pex is fine. The issue may or may not be the actual correct installation with the pex type a,b,or c matching the specific fittings matching the clamps/rings/collars matching the proper tool for the application. When i was researching this stuff it is like the opinions are all over the place. The experts do not even agree. This leads to confusion and mistakes. I spent tons of time just on hold waiting for answers from sharkbite and apollo. The answers were cut and paste type responses.
I have never been on a job where Uponor was used. I know that the fittings are not easily bought locally when i need them on the weekend for an emergency repair. Sort of back to the same issue i am currently having with Viega. I have heard some homeowners claim that a fitting for type b pex worked on type a pex. But, for how long is the real issue i think.
I am enjoying not using map gas while crouching inside a wall cavity while i solder together a copper manifold. The copper we buy now is not as tough feeling like the old stuff was. It feels thin and is not round. I also question its purity and susceptibility to galvanic corrosion. I know we have some sketchy well water around here that eats copper up. This is where the Uponor may shine. I am not fond of the viega, sharkbite, or apollo composite “plastic” fittings. I have seen too many cracked. 
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: rpar86 on February 20, 2018, 11:34:58 PM
Yeah, you can’t get Uponor at Home Depot or Lowe’s :(. I made a mistake on one fitting and needed another fitting and of course it was Sunday and Ferguson isn’t open on the weekend. By chance I found a plumber in the parking lot of a local store that caters to electrical and plumbing supplies and he had the fitting I needed and gave it to me for no charge.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on February 24, 2018, 09:22:37 PM
Jared,

I'm a bit confused about pex and I'm about ready to install the water in the casita.

If I buy pex-b, the trick is buying the same brand ring and same brand fitting?  Is that correct?

I've seen types like Bluefin and sharkbite that look like automotive clamps and some others are solid copper/brass clamps.   I don't want to invest a lot in tools to do maybe 20-30 connections.  I want mechanical crimp connection and not a push fit.

If I stay with the same brand, e.g. the sharkbite that Lowe's carries, same tools and rings and pipe, should I be OK?

Or can you safley mix the base fitting with a different brand ring?  Like Souix Chief , etc?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: rpar86 on February 24, 2018, 09:44:10 PM
Charles, here’s some reading for ya to start with.

https://www.pexuniverse.com/content/types-of-pex-tubing


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on February 24, 2018, 10:04:59 PM
thanks Ryan.  I read it.  Wondering about fittings and rings.  Seems like everybody and their dog makes fittings

Or for a small job like this should I just use CPVC?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on February 24, 2018, 10:29:53 PM
I recommend that you go to lowes. Get sharkbite pex. Type b. It is made in the USA. The Apollo pex from H Depot is made in China. Then get the sharkbite crimp tool for clamps. Also made in the USA. Use the stainless clamps. Sharkbite also has a tool that crimps copper rings. They must be checked with the go no go gauge every crimp. They are two different tools. The other tool that crimps the clamps is what i just bought. The copper rings are not rated for burial. The stainless clamps are. That is really the cheapest way to do what you are wanting to do. My tools are sitting here in the truck with me so here is a shot of the tool and clamps. If you will be closer to me near Austin you can borrow my tool. After all my research this is what i got to use when Viega is not possible. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/156ed66af25c6793a7f8707bdb598ceb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/1ea9b1a4c389fa137e8a4bdfc3d43664.jpg)
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on February 24, 2018, 10:34:10 PM
thanks Jared very helpful.  Can I use the sharkbite crimps on a different brand of fitting? Like everhot or souix chief?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on February 24, 2018, 10:36:50 PM
How i understand it is this. Match the tool to their specific brand and manufacturer of clamp or ring. The pex is all the same ID and OD. Since this is so the fittings are all the same OD. So the tool must match or be calibrated to the clamp or ring being used. The fitting can be any brand so sharkbite or apollo work. I still plan to stick to one brand and not mix and match for my customers warranty purposes and simplicity.
Pex b is the most common. It is easily bought at lowes h depot ace and just about everywhere. Just make sure not to use pex a. I have only seen pex a at the plumbing stores and they do not sell much of it. Uponor makes the outlet stop selling any other brand is what moore supply told me. So they do not carry the uponor brand because of the contractual conflict. Plus the chemical leaching of type a has me concerned since pex b is safe. Pex c is rare. Never seen it. Hope this helps with what i have found to be a very confusing subject from a customer standpoint.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on February 24, 2018, 10:45:17 PM
Perfect, thanks.  I just don't know that Lowes will carry the exact type of fitting that I need, like a drop ear 3/4 tee with a 1/2 pipe thread.
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on February 24, 2018, 11:42:22 PM
The viega tools i have match the copper crimp ring tool in size. It must go around the pipe which is at times hard in confined spaces. The clamp tool only needs to grab one side of the clamp and the same tool crimps 3/8” to 1” fittings.  My plan is to buy a 100 count pack of 3/4” sharkbite clamps and a 100 count pack of 1/2” sharkbite clamps and use these with my tool. I will use them on Apollo fittings when necessary but, otherwise i want to stick to either Viega or sharkbite when i can plan out the jobs. In an emergency i will be able to use this setup with most brands of fittings.
When i do plumbing i do manifolds. I run pex al pex under the slab when it is Viega. They call it fosta pex. This style has an aluminum inner layer. So it is pex-aluminum-pex. The outer layer of pex with the aluminum gets removed or stripped with a special tool. This lets the pex have memory and will retain bends like copper. It also can be in the sun. Pex b must be out of the direct and indirect sunlight within six months. I believe it is the same way with pex a and c also. It can be covered with insulation.
My manifolds are sized to keep good flow based on fixtures. It is best to limit the fitting count as this slows the water flow down since the fittings go inside the pipe. The water also has to make sharp turns. So have gentle non kinked bends when possible. Sharkbite also has some nice copper manifolds. These limit the number of expensive fittings needed and with Viega the cost adds up quickly. I like to use 3/4” and 1/2” stuff as much as possible. 1” fittings are real expensive and harder to work with. They also hold more water so the time it takes to get hot to a fixture increases. Most homes on a tap are fed by a 5/8” ID meter anyway. From the meter or well to the house i run parallel 1” or 1 1/4” pipe. From there i feed a manifold with (2) 3/4” pex runs. Here are some photos of what i just did at my home along with the sharkbite copper manifold piece. They have manifolds with different amounts of runs coming off of them. You can feed from manifold to manifold.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/19b9d4f7989f1d595de4cad48cb8bbc6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/1dd0c7ea16ee7a0f75b53efe82ed87e4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/98f8b86528caac5d09b4bd6af3878d89.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/236cd0c8284fe99cf518886304069a91.jpg)
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on February 24, 2018, 11:47:04 PM
Perfect, thanks.  I just don't know that Lowes will carry the exact type of fitting that I need, like a drop ear 3/4 tee with a 1/2 pipe thread.
Those are common if i am understanding. They are used on tubs and showers to stub out. You can also get rigid copper stub outs. From there you use compression shutoff valves. Apollo and sharkbite also make shutoff valves that hook right to the pex. If you run under your pier and beam you can come out right into the cabinet and add a straight or 90 shutoff valve.

***** This is important. When doing a tub valve you CAN NOT use pex to the tub spout. To the shower head yes. Tub no. It restricts the water just enough that it will trip the diverter valve.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on February 25, 2018, 04:42:26 PM
FYI

I have used exclusively HD brand stuff, using 1/2" white and red, and 3/4" white and red tubing with the compression/crimping copper rings and the expensive tool. Have never had a single leak or failure. Even when the winter ice expands the PEX to double size, my pipes have not failed.

Never look back at CPVC again in my humble opinion...
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on March 21, 2018, 08:58:33 AM
Spring is right around the corner so our paint work is going to pick up drastically. This reminded me that others here are probably going to be painting as well. PM me for the discount number to use at checkout at Home Depot to get 20% off at the register. I prefer not to post the number here as it is my phone number and it may get picked up by a bot to put me on more calling lists.
The deal is this. You will get 20% off of Behr paints and primers. If i understand it correctly it is on all Behr paints, stains, and primers. If anyone is concerned i recommend going to the pro desk and verifying the deal or have your concerns addressed before mixing the paint. For me to keep the discount and have it automatically renewed every January i have to spend $7500 during the previous year. Some years i am under that number and some years i am way above it. Our rep said to use it and give the number to employees, friends, and family. So all of this is above board and approved by our rep. No strings attached and the savings is given at point of sale and is instant.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on March 21, 2018, 09:02:57 AM
On another note i keep an eye on this thread for questions. My goal is to put my entire home build here along with photos of customer work and some of the work of others we are called in to fix. You guys will be shocked by some of the stuff i find and see hidden from homeowners who trusted the wrong contractor.
I am waiting to set up a router to add photos more easily. From my phone the pictures are not loading properly using data and my data is limited. I have not forgotten about these photos at all. I should have the internet connection soon.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on March 21, 2018, 10:22:41 AM
Jarod, sure you are savvy to save data but I always load pictures at home on my wifi. My daughter kills my data since her freinds are on diff carriers.

I would not be surprised at all seeing what some will do. Heck I am sure I have done a couple things not right in my room addition, but nothing I'm ashamed of!

I understand using PVA primer does almost the same as a vapor barrier. true?

I can see now why people pay for mudding rooms. I am a week into mine, just the skim om the closet to go.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on March 22, 2018, 09:24:18 AM
JR, your build looks great. You tackled a job most would have shied away from. For me remodeling is harder. You just have to make things you already have in place work and generally improve the product as you go.
My comment about uncovering hidden wrongs was geared toward professionals. I do see homeowners trying their best and this is great. They ask questions and generally want their home to be right. What is disheartening is when a homeowner is too overwhelmed or intimidated to take on a project. This drives them to take their hard earned money and pay someone who claims to be a professional. This person then either does not know what he is doing or is just a crook and takes advantage. I have literally seen multiple load bearing walls removed and hidden. After a year or so the house was falling in on itself. We had to raise it back up and install beams.
I think that is what this section and forum is for. To help each other learn and build the confidence to move forward on our own projects and have people willing to give advice and help out if a snag is hit. 
I am about to drywall my house. I will hire out the hanging of the material due to an old back injury which makes my hanging sheetrock slow and too costly. I am going to do all the tape and float. I have started prerocking for the AC coming Saturday. I do not mind floating at all. It does get monotonous though. The trick is to have a good set of tools and always use the same set so you get use to the feel. Then secondly make sure the mud is the right consistency for the layer you are doing.
I just picked up PVA primer. I got the Kilz brand of new drywall primer. It was under $50 for 5 gallons. I looked at the Behr primer but was not happy with its reviews.
I would not count on the primer as the only vapor barrier. Every region of the country has different needs. Here it is wet and humid much of the year then hot and humid the rest of the year. I feel primer is extremely important. It is way cheaper than premium paints. What i have found is that it is usually much wetter than paint. This allows it to soak into the raw texture and drywall. This soaking in bonds the mud to the paint and the sheetrock. The texture becomes much more durable.
On my homes i have other layers that keep moisture from making it that far into the room. By the time moisture from the exterior makes it up against the primer and paint you may see several issues. IMO it is better to stop the moisture much earlier. 
I will get an internet connection soon. We are living onsite where we are building our home and have for a while. It has been painful going this route but i am trying to get into the house without borrowing bank money. I usually run up to the library and use their internet but work has picked up and time is at a premium. 
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on March 22, 2018, 09:37:55 AM
I have been researching sheetrock and have gone way down into that rat hole. What do you guys think of the lightweight sheetrock on the market? It is all that is available at HomeDepot and Lowes. It is also more expensive. I bought six sheets to prerock. I must admit i am against the use if it due to the higher cost and the addition of air into the board. I never buy in bulk from the box stores. I usually get it from the contractor outlets that only deal in drywall. It is much cheaper that way and they deliver it into the house and sort it into the rooms for the same delivery fee everyone else charges to just drop it in the driveway.
I usually just make sure it is made in the US and is a name brand. I also prefer a deeper bevel on the joints. The last brand i used was American Gypsum brand and it worked well. My hangers charge the same price per sheet to hang the heavy stuff.
My only experience with lightweight is in remodels where we remove the old lightweight stuff. It just crumbles more easily and some is actually mushy. There is also generally more cracking with it. But, this stuff is probably five years old or so which would put it at the beginning of hitting the market so maybe it has gotten better.
The house in question is also my personal home. I do have a small budget so this time i foamed the attic and batted the walls with R15 fiberglass insulation. This has proven to be great. I do not want an airtight house because the prepper in me wants to be able to live in it without electricity and not rely on air exchangers and dehumidifiers that an airtight house needs. They did the insulation on a cool day. A week has passed and it has become much hotter here and it is still very cool inside the house. Since the home is in central Texas i need to keep heat from the attic and roof out of the house.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on March 22, 2018, 10:24:54 AM
First, thanks for the feedback. I know what you mean about adding onto old, what a pain!

I used the lightweight on my build, 15 sheets and still had to piece the closet a little. Did seem a little pricey, but worked OK for my skills.

I am very happy with my roxul insulation. Sure it cost more but was super easy to put in, no stapling and no itching! I am thinking of using for the rest of the garage roof. It really gets hot here and the little extra spent there would be easy to justify. It is wrapped with good ventilation so far from air tight.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Tommy13 on March 22, 2018, 02:25:37 PM
Jared, my builder and his drywall guy say the same things you have.  In fact the drywall sub we used flat refused to use the stuff Lowes carries.  Everything in our new home came from Meeks.  He claimed the light weight sheetrock doesn't hold up and he said after using it a time or two he doesn't feel comfortable guaranteeing his work when using the stuff.  Hanger joints and other trouble spots only become more troublesome.   
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on March 22, 2018, 10:41:16 PM
Tommy, thanks for verifying what i was worried about. I will go with standard weight sheetrock on my house. Probably fire rated 1/2” on the walls in addition to the normal fire rated 5/8” on the ceiling. The sheetrock companies can charge more and provide less product in the form of gypsum with the lightweight stuff so it is a win for them. But, we as homeowners have to deal with the possibly of a more inferior product.
This reminds me of one home i worked on for an elderly lady in her 90’s. She was a retired Dr. she used 1/2” 4x8 sheets of hardi plank on all her interior walls. The same stuff you see at the store for showers but in a 3x5 size. It looked great and even floated out nicely.
JR, i looked real hard at the Roxul insulation you went with. The spec on it is outstanding. I have opened walls with the stuff in it but never understood what it was until you recommended its use.
I was convinced i would go with fiberglass mesh tape instead of paper drywall tape. But, after researching the advantages and disadvantages i think i will be doing paper tape this time around.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on March 23, 2018, 12:39:38 AM
Yep, I used paper too. Can't believe I used a 150' roll up, so 3' of the closet is FG.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on March 23, 2018, 08:55:45 AM
Closets are time machines. I would rather tape, float, and paint a room than a closet. They take about the same time IMO.
I need to look around. I think i remember seeing some drywall paper tape with small pin holes to grab the mud. I am thinking it will hold better but have not had any issues with the plain old paper tape. Come to think of it i have not had issues with fiberglass tape either. Researched it a bit yesterday and it appears you must use hot mud or setting compound with the mesh tape. I have a homemade taping machine that takes the all purpose mud and paper tape. I will most likely have the wife and daughter use that to tape the house and come behind and float it out. One thing i have seen done wrong at some sites is the taper uses too much pressure and forces too much of the mud from under the tape. It pretty much pushes all the mud out. It holds for a while but will eventually come loose and sag and then crack away and need attention. So when using tape press it in but not so much that there is no mud left underneath.
I have spent many years floating new homes and making repairs on remodels. I hated it at first. Then you get a technique and it becomes enjoyable. I am floating my house to both stay on budget and to keep with the trend here of teaching my daughter how to do the work and greatly minimize the use of outside labor. The issue of taping and floating is one we will all face. This particular trade has gotten pretty expensive to hire out. The cost per sheet for labor has doubled in the last five years.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 30, 2018, 04:44:17 PM
Found this on our house we took over from another builder

The half walls. The didn’t pull layout from the correct spot or something so instead of re placing studs they turned them sideways and stapled to them

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/d72efe366a5ea4493c48b9daae33d704.jpg)


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on March 30, 2018, 07:00:39 PM
Interesting. I have also seen that before. Probably so the osb did not have to be cut. There is a plate joint above it also.  I guess at least they put wood there other than just seam tape.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 30, 2018, 07:34:44 PM
Yeah these guys missed a page and a half of punch list four way inspection stuff. It was pretty bad, hangers, seams, bracing and of course sheeting.

Thankfully this was mostly another crew.

Jared what do you use to haul your tooling in? We just picked up a box van.   What does your shelving look like?


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Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on March 30, 2018, 08:55:11 PM
Here is what i do. I have a weatherguard tool box that is the deep wide contractors box. It is full. Probably about 800-1000 lbs. Every nook and cranny in my truck is full of tools and parts. Under the seat is full. In floor storage full. Door pockets and glove box full. Every seating position can be used. I scaled the truck with an empty bed and me 200 and daughter 120 and no fuel (fuel light was on) and i was 9600lbs.
When needed i pull a job site trailer. I leave it at the site if i can unless theft is a concern. I use to leave all tools inside the home being built. I was burglarized three times and lost $15,000 the first week in lost tools and materials. I was hit twice in the same week. So i got a S&H trailer. It is an 04 and been in constant use since then. It is heavy duty. It has seen 100 mph sustained. It has been floated in a river during a flash flood where i had to get out. This trailer has been wonderful. No issues. Likely north of 200,000 miles on it. I pull it through ditches and into sites where there are no roads. It never came off the truck, for one stretch that was over two years. If i went the trailer came with me.
My shelves are 3/4” plywood 12” deep. I installed 1/2” plywood to the trailer sides and screwed it to the boxed tubing. Then i glued and screwed 1x2 to the back in strips for each 3/4” x12” shelf to sit on. The front has props of 2x3 face nailed. Then a second piece is glued and screwed behind the front prop to hold the shelf. Then another 1x3 is put on the face and extends above the shelf. This keeps stuff from bouncing out of the shelves. This has proven very strong. I strap hundreds and hundreds of pounds to these shelves with no parts ever working loose. I have a job box that i can lock in the nose. This thing was way too much for a couple of Tundras i tried pulling it with. They wanted to go straight through the corners and their suspensions were bottomed out.
I have had several other contractors and framers copy my design(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/245ab37d40c8fa9dbf5fc30f822ad629.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/7b0afb252eab7cf23ea184d1366f21f0.jpg) and they are happy. This system would also mount well into a box van. I just prefer to pull the trailer when necessary and leave it behind if the truck is enough. I told one framer who was looking to try and rip a shelf off. The whole trailer was rocking but nothing inside came loose. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/9cfcccb58c8d53f09ffbaff8a4b8e744.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/765ce583be457a3375da8a9b13359d41.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/2898dc21d6edddc9fd18f7485ac877f8.jpg)
The truck is a 15 with Cummins and Aisin. I had a 14 Ram with Cummins and 68rfe and broke two complete transmissions before 14,700 miles. Completely burned up both times. I also had a 12 LML which was a lemon and the dealer never fixed it. Pyro 4 was stuck at 1832 degrees and not towing i was at 9 mpg with regens every 100-150 miles. They would reset the computer and it was great and at 18 mpg or so then it would fall to 9 again. That lasted for 20,000 miles before i was done.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 30, 2018, 10:07:40 PM
I’ll post a picture of our current set up on Monday,   We have a trailer and a box van.  The box is empty needing built out. The trailer is set up pretty good.  Just need better storage foor drills, long handle shovel type things and boxes of nails and staples.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on March 31, 2018, 12:16:29 AM
Dave, are those cables under the beam?

Nice trailer setup there.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 31, 2018, 08:25:18 AM
Honestly I can’t say I paired enough attention to them.  I’ll look and see if the hvac guy messed up. 


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: cruizng on April 02, 2018, 08:52:31 AM
Being the Internet Surfer that I am I thought I would share this guy (Ron Paulk) in the PNW youtube channel. He is a home builder and has tons of ideas on trailers and box trucks that he has used over the years. He also sells sketchup designs for some of his stuff. I have used them for tool cubbies and drawers and have liked them.

https://youtu.be/Vb3c0ZRYt90



Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Nate on May 04, 2018, 09:58:36 AM
Jared,

I have 2 questions for you.

1. Since when can you not use galvanized screws with pressure treated wood? 

Some numbskull at menards tried to tell me that you cannot use galvanized screws with pressure treated lumber, and that you can only use these high dollar square bit screws that have a million coatings of ant piss all over them!

2. Do you do any commercial construction?
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on May 04, 2018, 11:01:17 AM
I do light commercial construction at times. We do office additions and have been called in to do punch out for large commercial contractors. Most of my work is residential though.
The treated woods have changed. They are or were treated with formaldehyde and now are treated with copper or borate. The EPA wanted to get the formaldehyde wood out of the houses. So we have switched to borate base plates and a foam gasket to keep the wood from contacting the concrete and also help seal out air. Also, the galvanized stuff has gotten weaker IMO. The galvanized layer is paper thin so any damage to the coating and corrosion sets in. This can happen when the driver on the gun contacts the fastener or anything in the wood causes an abrasion as the nail penetrates the wood. Drills also tear the head up if the bit skips. The nails my grandfather has used and still has around in his huge boxes are much better. Those nails will be around hundreds of years from now. I have seen the borate treated wood we use eat through galvanized deck staples and standard framing nails. It takes a while but at some point the wood treatment eats through the fasteners and there is no longer anything holding the base plates to the wall studs. I use ACQ rated treated screws and fasteners in my base plates. So when i nail walls together i use a different nail in the treated baseplates than i do the rest of the areas that are nailed during framing.
Certain fasteners also cause streaking in fencing. IIRC galvanized screws streak with cedar. The coated screws for ACQ lumber are pretty good. I have been buying special fasteners lately and they are expensive for sure. Everything is getting expensive.
Currently i am doing a home addition. The guy is like me and is trying to take steps to increase strength. So the nails we are using are the fattest nail my gun will run plus galvanized, coated with glue, and ring shank. I am nailing into LVL’s so at times the nail only goes half way in at the max 120 psi the gun will take. We are also screwing and glueing as much as we can. He provided advantec adhesive which is brutally strong stuff and comes in a pressurized can with a required special handle and trigger. I have also been using Spax screws. These screws are uncoated for the interior and coated for the exterior. They are great structural screws. There are two head styles we have used on this job which are ledger lock and timber lock. I used the small interior version of these screws on my tornado room and hidden gun closet when we screwed the 3/4” plywood to the walls.
On another note i will finally be getting a computer connection next week so i can get this thread going with the photos i have been taking and wanting to post up here.
Dave, what are you doing about baseplate fasteners with your framing crews in regards to treated wood and their required fasteners?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Nate on May 04, 2018, 11:35:19 AM
Thank you for the information, that was what i was trying to get from the genius at menards, but obviously i forgot they are min wage folks and dont really care.

So the reason i asked the second question, is because i am trying to figure out why people are either stupid when they install toilet paper dispensers so damn low or if there is an actual code put out by the ADA or something like that?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 04, 2018, 12:46:41 PM
Nice info Jared, thx!

I like the spax/torx head screws also. Used #2 phillips for years but they always seem to require extra effort and skip all the time.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: cudakidd53 on May 04, 2018, 12:48:17 PM
Thank you for the information, that was what i was trying to get from the genius at menards, but obviously i forgot they are min wage folks and dont really care.

So the reason i asked the second question, is because i am trying to figure out why people are either stupid when they install toilet paper dispensers so damn low or if there is an actual code put out by the ADA or something like that?

That height is required by the Snowflake Protection Agency.......otherwise the Millennials don't know to bend over to wipe and end up just rubbing the paper atop their heads!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on May 04, 2018, 07:37:10 PM
The rules governing the commercial side due to peoples stupidity tests my patience. I had an inspector test every door closure i did. About 200 doors. They test close speed for the initial sweep. The door must slow down right before the actual close and do a cushioned soft close that locks but not too tight all without exerting too much pressure. This is complicated as the pressure in a building changes as AC cycles and other doors may be open or closed. We were also supervised by the army core of engineers who has their own inspectors. OSHA is what most people go by. Their philosophy was that OSHA set a minimum standard so they have their own more ultra crazy standard. Cost does not matter for the government. So these government contracts take our tax money to build projects with crazy safety in place. For example i spent about six hours tightening and replacing two pieces of iron. Without the safety crap ,after hours with the inspector gone, i increased my productivity to do the same in 15 minutes. I got written up twice in one day. I was the only person on site on a Saturday, with the exception of the company safety officer, and an Army corp inspector showed up. If they show up they stay until they can write someone up. I got written up when my hard hat fell off when i looked up into the ceiling grid. Then i got written up for a Dr Pepper in a bottle with a lid in a spill proof cart in a rubber daycare where everything is made to be cleaned daily. The drink on site decision was made by the super that they were allowed. He just had nothing else to write up and wanted to go home. I filed the write ups in the folder with all job write ups.  There were just over 5000 in there. When the job is done they get tossed and no one cares. Laughable at best.
The ADA people really have gotten out of hand. There is a group here in Austin that goes to small businesses and sits on the toilet to take measurements. If anything is off or out of spec a law suit is filed for discrimination. They check wheelchair ramp angles and handrails. Even the TP holder must be in spec.
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on May 04, 2018, 08:13:55 PM
I have been working on my personal house this week due to weather. The first photo is a hidden room above the kids room that we are calling the kid hideout. I still need to get carpet but it is done. It will be storage while we sheetrock and will then be accessed by a rock wall with tunnel from my sons room. We plan to mount a flatscreen and make it a place for the kids to hangout and watch tv and have the xbox. This area is 11’4” X 14’6”. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180505/b2f8a09d28455b145c7073c1cd391703.jpg)
This second area is my closet. It is reinforced with 3/4” plywood and screwed down. This is much harder to get into than sheetrock. I have hidden panels and storage behind the 3/4” plywood for some survival food and gun storage. The base plate is wedged down every 16”. I used this strong box to brace off of in the attic. I was trying to decide if I should attach it to the house framing or have the house blow away leaving the box behind. I ultimately used it as in interior structural cube. Same with the kid hideout. The entire house in fortified to withstand heavy winds and stand as long as i can get it to. I have customers show me their hidden rooms. I always ask why they used sheetrock. I do not think they know how weak it is. I can get through a sheetrock wall in less than a minute. Even quicker if i am pissed. For those customers i recommend they have weapons in the room and know they can shoot right out of it into the intruder through the sheetrock. I will get a photo of the hidden area tomorrow. For now here is where i am with it. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180505/fb7594197cb021420bbd2f63ca5d2347.jpg)
I need to get a steel door but have not decided what to do. My partner and i do blast type doors but that would be overkill here. It would weigh about 600-800 pounds for that size. So i am considering just going steel and mounting it in such a way that it can not be kicked in. There will be pins or wooden blocks that can be dropped in from the inside. From there i may fill it with two part epoxy or concrete. This may still also be overkill. I have not decided anything yet. My wife and daughter have had gun training from our groups weapons expert and i want them to be able to get to the weapons quickly and be able to fire those weapons through the door and walls if need be without someone being able to get in too easily. This closet is 6X10.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 04, 2018, 09:18:56 PM
Love the built in and the storage ideas. I have a couple spots in my house no one but I know about and more coming.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bob Smith on May 04, 2018, 09:50:34 PM
JR, you have to let some one know about them just in case you tip over in the night. When I had to face my health issues, I woke up and let someone know the safe combo and my hiding places. The thought of family not getting my stuff made me change my mind of keeping secret places. Yes someone could get the safe open if needed but then the repair bill would suck.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on May 04, 2018, 10:19:53 PM
Hiding spots are important. So is letting your family know what is where if they can be trusted. I have seen some crazy stuff i may get into here at a later time.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 04, 2018, 10:32:29 PM
All wise words
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 04, 2018, 10:42:45 PM
Jared,

We use a blue or white foam under our “green plate” and the bolts provided by foundation guys,  they are usually raw steel bolts.   When attaching walls to the floor with our power/powder nailed we aren’t using anything different there either.  I do have a pocket full in the truck. 
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180505/558ead558b7e1df4ded59f897080a689.jpg)
Does that answer the question?  We haven’t changed process since I framed almost ten years ago.   


I have seen folks use a seam sealer type stuff on the outside edge of the plate and concrete to keep water from wicking under the board.  But I have yet to talk our crew into implementing it


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 04, 2018, 11:47:47 PM
Jared,


Our nail supplier is trying to talk me into using the newer style barbed nails on my sub floor of my house, not using glue just the nails and supplied gun as a test for the house

What are your thoughts?


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 05, 2018, 08:28:22 AM
I know you didn’t ask me but I’d say test someone else’s house. I’d want glue and screws


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 05, 2018, 08:57:40 AM
We haven’t screwed floors here in Utah yet that I have seen.  Going to breakfast with the boss today. I think the screw guns where I don’t bend over look great!


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 05, 2018, 09:38:56 AM
So per five min convo, we won’t screw your floor.  The tensile strength of the screw is not high enough for the constant movement of the floor. The movement pops the heads off of the screws and they back out.   


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Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on May 05, 2018, 10:45:58 AM
We use the exact nails in our base plates. We also have the concrete guys do anchor bolts so our setup is the same as yours in your state.
I am never a fan of trying something new. This is both good and bad. Usually i let others experiment first. Too many times i hear that the idea to change was wrong and we are going back to the old way. The new method came with a lifetime warranty which is no good as the company went under and opened in another name three days later and such. One area where this bit me was with hardi. I waited for it to be proven before i switched. So i kept using masonite and wood which we eventually, years later, ripped off and replaced with the hardi.
On this addition we are doing the homeowner has advantec subfloor adhesive we are using. It is the first time i have used this with the advantec floor. So far it is great. It comes out of the gun like spray foam and shrinks back leaving some mean blue adhesive. It is supposed to work wet or dry and even when freezing. It is messy to work with.
Most of my homes are ranch style one story homes. Or a different country style but still one story. I usually do custom homes which cost more than the cookie cutter homes they build here. This leaves me with older customers rather than someone buying their first home where they are younger with kids so opt for the best bang for the buck to get the most square footage. The older people shy away from anything with stairs. Even sidewalks and such get ramps as they plan for the future and their aging bodies.
My framers do not screw sub flooring very often. I usually come back and just add screws to their nail pattern to make myself feel better. On my home everything is nailed, glued, and screwed. My personal home is going slow as i do the entire thing with two of my kids daughter (18) and son (13) so they can learn the process. It has been nice to not have a customer looking over my shoulder and no deadlines. I can work an area until i am satisfied. I am paying cash for it as i go so it will take another year to complete. Then i will do the garage and guest house. I felt very strongly that i should never again let a bank have a note on my property. If work dries up they can not take my home. My problem was that with equity from past homes rolled in (due to no capital gains on your homestead if you live there for two years) and all my labor done for free i end up with something of increasing value where i could lose everything. All my money and labor is in property. I just wish something could be done about property tax. I am tired of these crazy school bonds driving up taxes. The county portion of the tax for all the county services is @$500. The other $6000 is the dang schools. It gets me riled up especially since we homeschool and they will not even loan books.  It feels like i am renting my property from the state and will never really own anything.
Dave, i skipped your question on your supplier wanting you to stop using glue and just use barbed nails. Glue is cheap. It is also almost impossible to go back and add it later. The nails will probably be fine but i would still use glue. Once the adhesive soaks into both pieces you are glueing together that area is very strong. IMO they may want you to skip glue to offset the cost of their nails to justify their higher price. I would do both even if it is a bit much or unnecessary for a specific fastener.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on May 05, 2018, 02:45:11 PM
Here is a quick photo of the hidden closet. The plywood has specific #2 screws that get removed and three pieces slide down and out. It is for boxed food and guns with ammo. This is one of several. I will update with a photo of it closed once i load it up. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180505/8198d47e05610af70d47c1efe9c14cf7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180505/af8f8d38a3c47eb87f9c6f115f812a76.jpg)
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 05, 2018, 02:57:14 PM
Thank god for prop 13 hear. My property tax is around $3k and can only go up 1.5% py no matter the value!

On a side not though we pay 13% state income tax and is why so many are leaving the state. Add that to the recent gas/fuel tax increase and we getting hammered!

Now if it really went to what is was supposed to it would not be as bad. Hardly any makes it to the classroom or the roads but we have nice bike paths and great school admin buildings!


I know what you mean about doing it until you are happy, thats why my add on is past 6 months vs the 6 weeks I hoped. I glue and screw almost everything. 2 second story floors now one over 10 years old with a 22ft span. No squeaks or movement at all.

So yes, glue!!!!

I have plans for a false wall upstairs when I get a little more time. With 2 long storage areas the end of them is just right for that.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 05, 2018, 03:19:36 PM
These are what the rep wants me to try (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180505/3b3d1e9ad413cb636c76de7c5adf2b28.jpg)


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 05, 2018, 03:29:31 PM
I like the ring shank but is it full dia there or not centered for the cut?

I would still glue, you can't come back for that later like you can with nails.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on May 05, 2018, 04:08:56 PM
Agree with these guys... glue!
Just because they're hammer in"screws" won't prevent the top plank from moving, especially with expansion and shrinkage. IMO
... Although I am a mechanic and not a carpenter. Lol

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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: rpar86 on May 05, 2018, 07:19:20 PM

On a side not though we pay 13% state income tax and is why so many are leaving the state. Add that to the recent gas/fuel tax increase and we getting hammered!



Yeah, all your damn ex-neighbors are moving up here and cluttering up our roads! I see so many Cali plates.


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 05, 2018, 09:32:36 PM
That’s why I drive a diesel, black coal, Smokey burn outs and a middle finger out the window.   


Oh wrong thread lol


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 06, 2018, 12:04:30 AM
That’s why I drive a diesel, black coal, Smokey burn outs and a middle finger out the window.   


Oh wrong thread lol


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Not a bad thing,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 20, 2018, 06:48:12 PM
Sending these out to be built, 2inch square tube, 3ft vertical X 3ft horizontal and a 45 attachment in the middle to eliminate the post to the garage floor.

Welder said $130 bucks a piece and we will sell them to our home owner for maybe 50% more.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180520/3a4937982fb54d9806cc352045a67518.jpg)


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bob Smith on May 20, 2018, 10:28:25 PM
And just why would you do that? Why not at best charge what it cost you over the original plan, Is it a change order that makes the difference in how much you charge the homeowner?
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 20, 2018, 11:13:23 PM
The fabricator is not positive on his price (buddy who hasn’t introduced himself here) my logic was sell it for more to increase his  bottom line and ours for a bit

Not a change order just an option for home owner to check off


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 21, 2018, 12:18:41 AM
Heck, that is perfect place for floor jacks and such!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 21, 2018, 02:15:41 PM
Heck, that is perfect place for floor jacks and such!
A lot of times the home designer didn’t account for suv or larger sedan cars with the garage foot print so they can only get small compact cars in the garage. But with these braces they can at least nose the car under the porch if need be. 


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bob Smith on May 21, 2018, 03:49:40 PM
Interesting, our place in AZ has an oversized garage because the builders thought everyone owned a boat. I was looking at pontoon boats last year but it would not have fit while on the trailer. My wife solved that problem " easier to fish from the beach than have a boat that is too high for the door opening.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 21, 2018, 04:02:18 PM
Interesting. Must be a pretty exclusive beach in Arizona. Didn’t know such things existed

:-O


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 21, 2018, 04:21:35 PM
Curious about how you guys have seen corners like this finished

We have the country modern style trim in most our homes.  3/4 overhang on outside edges for the header

I just dove them into each other. 

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180521/962fb870a6e4806593241220a84c3d3f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180521/cbc65239b896a338cb617ebdf2752469.jpg)


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bob Smith on May 21, 2018, 06:56:47 PM

Interesting. Must be a pretty exclusive beach in Arizona. Didn?t know such things existed

:-O


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Nope, nothin exclusive at all. Just the Colorado river and Lake Mohave, with lake Havasu just down river. The area really draws the people in since it isn't too far from L.A. and Laughlin NV is just across the river.
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 21, 2018, 07:10:39 PM
Lol. I was just thinking of George Strait. Ocean front property in AZ...when you said “beach”


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 28, 2018, 05:50:58 PM
Jared, I have a venting problem in my upstairs main room. It has a versalam (16x6) ridge and 2x10 on 16c. I am going to insulate this with roxul 30 which leaves a 3in space up top I need to vent.

I was thinking about leaving a little space next to the beam so when I sheetrock I can pull the air out the bottom with a small fan pulling the air down and over/out.

Other idea is to drill a hole in each rafter near the top to pull the air across still using a fan to move the air.

So any ideas would be great!!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 28, 2018, 08:51:48 PM
so, JR, your roxul wont be touching the radiant barrier?, have you thought about a ridge vent, where you cut away the plywood along each side of the ridge beam?  Then you just need soffit venting at the lower eaves to get the air moving up along the underside of the plywood and out the ridge?

Just a thought
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 28, 2018, 11:45:56 PM
Nope, can't do that with this structure. The OSB is nailed to the beam in shear as part of the structure. A few holes are fine noted with 2 vents I have up there now for the open structure.

I think my only real option is a forced vent system either pushing the air down next to the beam or drilling a hole in the 2x10 on each rafter. However as seen by the pic I already have a notch on the bottom and
plan on leaving a gap there since the beam drops about 2 inches below the rafter. It would have to have a fan to work correct pulling the air out of the 2 roof vents now.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bear9350 on May 29, 2018, 08:07:47 AM
Would it just be easier and possibly cheaper in the long run to spray foam that area? 
Title: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Jared Herzog on May 29, 2018, 08:38:42 AM
JR,
Sorry for the late response. I agree with the foam as long as it can be used with the existing insulation and venting. But, it is not always easy to have a home with different insulation types and venting/nonventing methods. This is further compounded when you try to calculate the ac loads and distribution to keep every room the same temperature when some rooms are better insulated than others.
I am not a fan of powered ventilation. It works well at moving air but requires power to run the fan. I have seen so many fans burned out here in Texas due to running all the time that i fear they could be a fire hazard and are counter productive to an energy efficient home. When we must use such a vent i try to use the solar powered type.
I have had a similar situation that you have. Air will travel through the structure through the notches and holes naturally found in framing. What i have done when a cut can not be made along the entire ridge is to drill holes. These holes should not be so large as to weaken the structure. These holes allow the connection of osb to ridge to be maintained. The air that gets heated will naturally rise up and pull in fresh air below. Make sure you have a way for fresh air to enter at a lower point than the ridge holes. This will create a draw that will circulate air through the structure. This principle is reliable and never needs maintenance as long as the vents are clear. When i drilled these holes through the osb roof deck i did a 1” hole and had six or so holes between every 16” OC truss. Holes on both sides of the ridge. I did not have to drill holes through the trusses though. You may want to drill cross holes through your rafters but keep them small and from weakening the rafter. I am not sure how to figure how many holes you would need and of what size.
If holes and a continuous ridge vent is not possible you may want to consider an air hawk. They are the round turtle looking vents found on most homes around here. They mount just below the ridge so the connection you have can be maintained. The down side to them in your situation is that they will not ventilate every rafter chamber as well as a continuous vent so you would have to rely on the side to side travel of air through the framing and rafter notches. Small holes could be drilled through the rafters if your local code will allow.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 29, 2018, 04:33:32 PM
I think in the long run keeping the roof as is will be the best route and using a solar fan to pull air out is an option I thought of.

There will be quite a bit of space for the air to be pulled through, just have to get it out somewhere.

Sprayfoam for an r30 would be pricey and I still need to address the venting.

Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on May 29, 2018, 04:36:36 PM
I would do the holes up top JR. Fairly simple, efficient, and no fan needed.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on May 29, 2018, 04:41:35 PM
I would do the holes up top JR. Fairly simple, efficient, and no fan needed.

I agree with Ken (wow, did I just say that?)  :shocked:
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 29, 2018, 04:47:18 PM
I would do the holes up top JR. Fairly simple, efficient, and no fan needed.

Not sure, the ridge beam is 6in wide.  Small holes may work but I would need a 16in+ cap to cover both sides.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on May 29, 2018, 06:31:37 PM
I would do the holes up top JR. Fairly simple, efficient, and no fan needed.

Not sure, the ridge beam is 6in wide.  Small holes may work but I would need a 16in+ cap to cover both sides.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

So the beam is 6 inch wide, the holes are 1 inch diameter x 2 so 8 inch total or a tad more. Ridge vent is 13.75 wide (quick google of Lowe’s & HD) am I missing something?

If the hole diameter is concern go smaller & more of them. Thinking you can figure out how many holes you actually need pretty easy. Where I live there is code for venting & calculating the amount of holes for surface area is easy too.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 29, 2018, 09:23:05 PM
I would do the holes up top JR. Fairly simple, efficient, and no fan needed.

I agree with Ken (wow, did I just say that?)  :shocked:
If you start wearing Sandals and vote for Hillary we will put you down 


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on May 29, 2018, 09:27:42 PM
I already wear sandals...... :tongue:
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 29, 2018, 10:15:52 PM
I already wear sandals...... :tongue:

There you have it!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 29, 2018, 11:01:53 PM
The hippies are taking over...


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 30, 2018, 12:05:26 AM
Don I need to report a problem!!!  Ken is turning this forum into a hippie joint! One person at a time.   Can’t you  handle this?


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on May 30, 2018, 12:18:22 AM
Wait... what!
I don't wear sandals, nor Bermuda shorts (no names mentioned)
...and hippies are normally found near large democrat cities, like Denver, and Houston...they can't survive in dry climates.

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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on May 30, 2018, 12:19:59 AM
Don I need to report a problem!!!  Ken is turning this forum into a hippie joint! One person at a time.   Can’t you  handle this?


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I agree Ken is a problem & should probably be fired again. However, I think Don got consumed by a mulch bed & is currently Mia.....
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 30, 2018, 12:27:20 AM
watch it lefty.  Houston is still.....well....mostly red.....ish.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on May 30, 2018, 12:36:54 AM
watch it lefty.  Houston is still.....well....mostly red.....ish.

Pink?  :rolleyes:
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: rpar86 on May 30, 2018, 02:37:16 AM
Pink?  :rolleyes:
With two red trucks and now a white one, i'd say that makes pink.  (only counting the trucks here, not the wife's rides)
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 30, 2018, 07:22:43 AM
Yeah Tex might need a name change also, cityboy or Texas city slicker with that fancy new pickup with every option and the pool cloths


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on May 30, 2018, 07:25:56 AM
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Nate on May 30, 2018, 09:49:20 AM
well damn, that went sideways REAL QUICK...…………………..

SQUIRREL!
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Flyin6 on May 30, 2018, 11:20:00 AM
Yeah Tex might need a name change also, cityboy or Texas city slicker with that fancy new pickup with every option and the pool cloths


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Rutt-Rhoo...
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 30, 2018, 12:29:03 PM
Hey, they are "venting",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 30, 2018, 01:56:20 PM
Hey, they are "venting",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Lol just cut holes in the roof and use computer fans with 9v batteries change out every month for best performance


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on May 30, 2018, 02:03:10 PM
Hey, they are "venting",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Lol just cut holes in the roof and use computer fans with 9v batteries change out every month for best performance


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For best results add smoke detector beepers so you & all your neighbors will know when it’s time to change batteries, for added fun disable the blinking light so it’s a guessing game which battery is dead......
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 30, 2018, 03:49:41 PM
I am leaning towards the holes, say 3 per section. Issue is still the vent material above it as it is designed for cutting a 4in or so slot in the ridge. Then they seal outside that with the cap over that.

So lets say 3-4 holes in each section. Puts the width to seal around 10 inches to be safe. That does not to sound crazy but most venting is made for that narrow center ridge. I was thinking of mesh that I can use wider and found something called smartvent; https://dciproducts.com/smartvent-off-peak-firewall/

So I have some options but need to look more.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 30, 2018, 04:10:52 PM
This looks interesting and is 14.5 wide vs 11-12 of most others.

https://www.amazon.com/Lomanco-Lor30-Lo-Omniroll-2inx30ft-Black/dp/B000IOAKLW
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on May 30, 2018, 04:49:18 PM
JR, why couldn't you make your own? Essentially build up that ridge (lets say make it 4" taller or whatever) as long as you have enough overhang so water can't get back up inside. Use a fine mesh for air to flow out and cover it with shingles and then cap it like a normal ridge vent. Use vinyl or alum flashing and facia where the mesh isn't on the sides?
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: JR on May 30, 2018, 05:38:03 PM
Yep, I thought about that but thought I would search first, thx. My pitch is low (3/12)so I want to address it correctly.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: KensAuto on May 30, 2018, 06:01:24 PM
Boy oh boy, Jarod is going to freak when he sees what you guys did to his thread.
JR, you could buy about 47 boxes of scotch Brite, split some steel drums in half, and spray paint to match shingles...be sure and pick the right color of SB pads (I would go with red). : popcorn

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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 30, 2018, 06:22:21 PM
Yeah Tex might need a name change also, cityboy or Texas city slicker with that fancy new pickup with every option and the pool cloths


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I debated whether to take the bait......

Anyone remember Roy D Mercer, the comedian??

"how big an ole boy are you, Dave?"

:stickpoke
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 30, 2018, 06:36:27 PM
Big enough to put a pop knot on your head so big you’ll have to pay for a second hair cut!!

I love me some good ol ROY D! Mercer 


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 30, 2018, 06:37:00 PM
Or stomp ya into a mud puddle than stomp it dry is one I use regularly. 


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Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: stlaser on May 30, 2018, 06:52:42 PM
Or stomp ya into a mud puddle than stomp it dry is one I use regularly. 


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I had a good friend as a teenager who’s no longer with us (country boy from back woods of ky) who used that line and backed it up on occasion......

Now I know where it came from.
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 30, 2018, 07:07:04 PM
As Roy D said, "then I'ma gonna have to pack a lunch....."
Title: Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 30, 2018, 09:17:33 PM
“That’s just right fur a$$whoopin size”


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