1991/1985 Suburban 2500 build and flip, again!

[JR]

I really was curious as to what the inside of the motor looked like so I ordered a 7mm endoscope off ebay.

I took pics of each cylinder and saw nothing that would alarm me at all. I could even see crosshatch in most of them. Unfortunetly I could not use the side adapter as it goes over the end and the camera barely fit into the injector hole as it was. The pictures were just 640/480 but weren't really that sharp but they looked good on the laptop. I did take video but it came out to almost a gig for 30-50 seconds so unless I can compress it I would post them.

I did see a little debris on a couple pistons, but the holes were open when I got it.

This is the PPump which is supposed to have over 320k miles!!

[JR]

Here is piston 3-4

[JR]

Here is the rest 5-6

[JR]

I may figure out a little led to slid in there from the exhaust as the led on the camera (5) doesn't really do enough.

[Flyin6]

Cool little tool!

[Dustoff35]

The title for this chapter: "The 6BT gets a Colonoscopy" or something to that effect...

[JR]

The title for this chapter: "The 6BT gets a Colonoscopy" or something to that effect...

Any volunteers??

[Flyin6]

The title for this chapter: "The 6BT gets a Colonoscopy" or something to that effect...

Any volunteers??

Just checked that block, no thanks!

[JR]

Just checked that block, no thanks!

Fun ain't it. You will all get your turn.

Kinda like painting, it's all the prep work, not the procedure.

[JR]

Haven't done much in the last week. Took a few days with the family before Easter then had Easter dinner with the inlaws here at home.

Ordered a complete crossover/high steer setup for the 60 from Chassis Unlimited here in Kali, had a great sale and free shipping.

Going to order a new Motive Carrier from Summit with a Grizzly locker. Coupons and free shipping just work for this item.


Don, what offset did you get with those H1 Centers? My new engine stand will also be a great welding turn table when finished and be the same bolt pattern to boot!

[Flyin6]

Don, what offset did you get with those H1 Centers? My new engine stand will also be a great welding turn table when finished and be the same bolt pattern to boot!

Errr, not sure if I specified anything, they just come punched out the way he makes them. I want to say the wheels set up around 3.5" B.S. though...

[JR]

Thats what I was thinking with the dish angle after re-reading that section. Looks Like I will have to go for a flatter style to suck it into around 4.5in.

[JR]

Well, I sold the VE and made a little profit on it to boot. I think he liked the VE better but profit is good to!

Since the drive train is a known now, time to RR the rims. Found a local place (1hr) Performance Cryogenics that works on H1 wheel. They have centers, beadlocks and will cut mine out for just $15 ea. Thats a deal when you look at time and cleanup. Plus they work on firearms or can cryo whatever you want! http://www.performancecryogenics.com/contact.html

In fact there are several places semi close to where I am that do all this stuff and even Summit is just 2.5 hours away and is a nice stop as I look at property out of kali.

So I am going with a Truetrac is the rear too. Reviews look good, Has Tates approval and I want good street manors with good off road ability.

 

[Flyin6]

Trutracks! Now that's a blast from the past.

I'm intrigued. I'll eagerly await your observations about the trucks street as well as off road manners.

[JR]

Did some cleanup on the top but wind and foul weather has stopped me from priming it. Looks much better but still have to fill those 3 holes up there.

Above the pass area I sanded more and much the dent popped out. I still need a real body guy has to do some more detail on the sides, wifes SUV and the neighbors bed I scratch up a little  ::) I can do some but those "dentless" guys do wonders!


Now back onto the wheels and axles. Staying with the d60 up front and a 14ff out back but thinking of going to DRW hubs and a wide rear. I need to do some checking still but this will allow me to use the STOCK H1 wheels with no re-centering. That would give me the option of using all 8 tires and wheels I have.

[Flyin6]

Did some cleanup on the top but wind and foul weather has stopped me from priming it. Looks much better but still have to fill those 3 holes up there.

Above the pass area I sanded more and much the dent popped out. I still need a real body guy has to do some more detail on the sides, wifes SUV and the neighbors bed I scratch up a little  ::) I can do some but those "dentless" guys do wonders!


Now back onto the wheels and axles. Staying with the d60 up front and a 14ff out back but thinking of going to DRW hubs and a wide rear. I need to do some checking still but this will allow me to use the STOCK H1 wheels with no re-centering. That would give me the option of using all 8 tires and wheels I have.

That sure looks familiar!

[OldKooT]

I am trying to remember but I believe a few searches would tell the tale. But the dually hubs/rotors on the front and a dual rear step van 14 bolt allow stock hummer wheels with no spacers. "I think"

I'd still just recenter them personally LoL This would allow common 8 lug wheels to be used in a pinch if required.

I can't seem to get into my E mail but I have a fan with your name on it when/if you need it. I refuse to use those power sucking noisy expensive propellers Dodge called a fan.

[KensAuto]

JR, I have a chevy d60 dually at the shop with the hubs still on if you need some measurements.

[JR]

JR, I have a chevy d60 dually at the shop with the hubs still on if you need some measurements.

Yes I would, thanks. But I am thinking of the gm 14bt with the 10.5 ring gear.  Isn't that the one you and Don just scored? I believe its around 72 and the later models have the disc brakes and all.

Not a huge fan of the 14mm studs since then I have to change them. The 9/16 are stronger than the 14mm from my research.

I see many are in favor of recentering which is not a huge issue.

[JR]

After a touch more searching it could be as wide as 75in and there are hubs to adjust that.

Now a set of dually hubs for the D60 front and I am set and they should be way cheaper and easier to find than the standard hubs. I also think the Yukon hubs will still work just fine.

[OldKooT]

A Dually front 60 is 8" wider than a single wheel. So....  than you'd need to be 75" wide to match exactly. The widest 14 Bolt is your dually at 72"  So a 3" stagger. Or 1.5" more stagger than a OEM Chevy 1 ton single wheel 4x4.

Anyway just thinking out loud a bit, as I have contemplated this same swap a time or two for my daily driver pickup.

You could run a 70HD rear axle and use 14 bolt single wheel hubs and get to 74" wide.... but you will need to custom fab some weld on disk brake brackets. One advantage to that is you'd likely be able to find a power-lok equipped 70HD and not need to buy a aftermarket L/S then.

[KensAuto]

Without taking the wheels off (lugs are pretty rusted) I come up with 77" (very close) on the front and about 67-68" on the back. This was a late 70's 1 ton chevy....so old school drums with pressed studs.

[JR]

Not crazy about a dana 70. Seen how they hold up after taking apart. Plus the 14bt is easier to find and setup find parts for.

All the duallys are in the front are a spacer or Hub depending on the make. The so called 14bt bible shows the widest at 72, but I don't think it includes the newer trucks/subs with the higher offset wheels.

Heck, might be simpler to just go with steel spacers (just a little more $$) and run the stock h1 wheels and I get the option of bolting any stock wheel in there if needed in a pinch. 

[OldKooT]

I can't say for the real new stuff. But my 14 Bolt is a 98 ish 3/4 ton pickup and it's 67" on the head. I know Dodge Dana 80's as an example are wider in single wheel applications...but that's another entire bag of worms. I think all your newer GM's like the Duramax as an example would be the larger ring gear axles. But you could measure yours and find out the width LoL It would be food for thought, if it's actually wider.

[JR]

Yeah, the 11.5 and the 10.5 should be the same width. Motor/tranny dictated the rear.

Looks like my 11.5 is about 72 with just poking it through the wheels. Still better than 67.

So 72 with a 9 inch wheel and 7 inch BS gives me 76 rim bead to bead. Burbs are 80 wide so if the tires is out 2 inches per side we MAY be good.

[JR]

OK, so here is what I have gone too.

Keeping the 60 front but it will get dually hubs giving me a 72in wms. Still works with all my parts and I got a set for 100 plus shipping. Heck I can double that if I sell the standard hubs, but will keep them for now and I still have the externals to sell with hubs that should bring a fair penny. I don't quite have an endless bank or income. Plus the house is getting upgrades to get it up to date and possibly keep wifey happier.

The Rear is still getting a 14bt ff but looking for a 72 inch. Will have to cut and remount the pads but thats the norm.

Measured the tires and I get 4in from wms to side of the tire (2.5in to rim edge). This gets me close to the 80in wide the Sparty is so I am going to do some mock ups to see what it looks like. I can also play with the 2.5 spacers I have to see if I like the stance. Don't want the tire WAY out, nor tucked in. Plus since this is the current width of many trucks out there now "finding" spares should nit be a challenge if needed.

Took the front springs to Valley Spring Works in Dixon and they are adding a military wrap spring under the main. Couple bones but still a few less than custom springs.

Talked to 2 tranny guys seeing which direction to go there. Since I kept the 94 engine I now have a 91 tranny so this is in the air until I see the budget. I can get a rebuilt or go custom, but we all know which way we go around here.

Got another order coming in from LMC with a lot of interior parts, padding and insulation. The roof is getting pathed now and the dent guys comes right after the first,,,,,,,,,,$$$$

Oh, the new compressor is sweet. Goes from 140 to 175 in 2 minutes and you can stand next to it. Sold the other for $250 right away! Not bad for a 20 year old craftsman. 

[KensAuto]

So you have a narrower d60? I double checked mine and it hasn't shrunk...still 77" wms.

[JR]

front or rear?

My 60 front is 67 wms to wms. I think the gm is 69?

[KensAuto]

that was the front, with dually hubs. back was 67.

[JR]

So the hubs are 5in then which sounds right since I have 67 now. So the tires should be 1 inch wider on both sides, about.

Standard hubs are 4.5

[JR]

Got the hood off so I could finish off the vent area. This thing had to be sitting with the hood open for some time to get all this junk in there. That is under the hood hinge behind a big rubber seal for the hinge.

[Flyin6]

You're getting it!

Good time to prime that area and spray that OD Green paint in there!

[JR]

You're getting it!

Good time to prime that area and spray that OD Green paint in there!

Prep and spray with semi black, hood will be black to, truck will be black. Hmm, I have alot of touchup to do with a white truck!!

[Flyin6]

You're getting it!

Good time to prime that area and spray that OD Green paint in there!

Prep and spray with semi black, hood will be black to, truck will be black. Hmm, I have alot of touchup to do with a white truck!!

Seriously!

[KensAuto]

That will be menacing, lookin' forward to it!

[JR]

That will be menacing, lookin' forward to it!

Some intimidation is fine, let em guess it keeps the trouble down.

[JR]

Simple green, Green scuff pads, toilet brush and water does pretty good. Then a little wipe down with thinner and a few coats of Ace Anti rust paint.

[JR]

I had to transfer my makeshift storage shed from one to the other so I can gut the rear.

[Flyin6]

Man, just look at all those barn doors!

[JR]

And look at all the stuff!! That was inside the 2500 but I need to gut that thing. Between Randys boxes, Summit and a big LMC box and the seats it filled up quick!!

Then I found this outside my house again today  ;D that contains floor insulation and door/window seals.

[JR]

Need a little help guys with insulation. Layers are better, so lets hear from ya!!

Looking at the dynamat and other stuff like Lizard Skin plus a layer over that for the roof and maybe the doors. Floors will get inside and outside treatment.

So besides the regular insuation (gray matt with foil) what about the others? I see foil over thin white foam, the foil bubble stuff like at home stores and the such.


What have you used, what ideas do you have

[Flyin6]

Primer, then under coating, followed by Lizard skin, then dynamat. That would be an acoustically dead surface

[JR]

So will my wallet. Good for the floor where most of the sound is. Maybe the doors.

[JR]

So onward a little with stripping the rear. Put the youngest to work probably violating a couple child labor codes, but hey he liked it. Besides that he could almost stand up in there!!

[JR]

Cleaned up the rear step a little using an 12v Nextec oscillating tool with a scrapper that worked great. Ground off the rust and it looks solid enough to just treat and paint.

Now the receiver is another matter. I have never seen anything rusted up this bad on dry land. I used a 6lb sledge on the clip, then a air chisel to knock out the pin and that barely worked. Hitch is solid. Been soaking now for a couple days with wd and now another break free type lube and still it won't move. I may have to cut the hitch out, it is really that bad.

I will say the roof is very clean. I expected a lot more rust from what I saw when pulling parts.

[Flyin6]

Excellent use of child labor!

Gonna employ some myself today on the farm!

[JR]

As you can see that headliner is in fine shape. The good part of that is it is just a flat cardboard cutout so I use it as a pattern. The bad news is the cheapest headliner I have found is still well over $400 and is only for the rear AC burbs, mine is not.

If I can get it to lay flat I have used fiberglass to RR them before with great results.

Sounds like the farm is getting the attention it deserves, will be good some of the progress as I doubt it will all make it here,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[OldKooT]

Floor: Make your own Lizard Skin...it's MUCH cheaper. I have done this in the past with excellent results. A quick Google search will provide you the recipe.

I'd epoxy the floor/lizard skin and then use whatever you'd like above that. Just keep in mind that's a large floor, and you will increase weight the more layers you use. 

Hitch: Mix some acetone and ATF 50/50 and soak that reliever once a day for a few days, and then try and remove.

[JR]

I found a cheaper coating and have been looking into that. Never thought about making my own, thx.

I have used ATF before, it does wonders, but never with acetone.

[JR]

Got what I need to make my own and already have new padding a matts.

Found this picture, wish I was this far but you get the idea.