3+3 2500

[JR]

That is nice. So Duramax to squarebody?

[swbhobie16]

welds are about 1/2 way done and cleaned up.



front core support/spring brackets clamped in place.



only 1 hole lines up 



all good though. i’ll drill them out. and make a large plate for the back to act as a washer/cover for the older holes.

[swbhobie16]

holes drilled and make shift hardware holding it in place. just went and bought all new graded bolts to hold it in place after powder. i think it turned out nicely

[swbhobie16]

front upper shackle hangers (FUSH) installed.

was a really straight forward install. kit was complete and very easy to use. nearly fool proof.

started by cutting the rivet heads off the front cab mounts and clean off wheeled down to the frame. drove the the rivets out alittle and then pried the mount off. the bolted the template in to place and drilled the 1/4” pilot hole



took it off and drilled a 1.75” hole in the frame. then sand drummed the hole to 1.875” to put the bracket in/on



bolted the cab mount on the other side and put the FUSH inside with provided hardware.



pushed bushings in and hung the boomerang shackles on with ARP hardware.



rinse and repeat



52” swap FUSH installed



gooseneck plate located. 1/4” pilot holes drilled through plate and frame. it’s pushed as far back as it can be without hitting the under bed stringer in this location



now.. question:

the B&W install for this C/K model truck called for holes to be drilled through the bed and into the plate from the top. basically the bottom of the bed sits on the top of the gray plate. but i don’t want 4 more holes than needed in my bed. so.. my thought is: drill the plate to 1/2” diameter. countersink a bevel and use a grade 8 pan head machine screw/bolt to sit flush with the top of the gray plate and under the bed completely. or.. tap the hole to 1/2” threads and bolt it in from the bottom.

thoughts?

[JR]

That way heavier than mine from DIY. I just use the stock holes (4), no template.

[swbhobie16]

That way heavier than mine from DIY. I just use the stock holes (4), no template.

he’s got an HD version for factory location. the 4 holes at the front will small pilot hole are for ‘factory’ location for doing a 4wd conversion. i just decided to do 52” for a better ride.

[KensAuto]

I don't like the panhead idea, nor the tapping holes idea.
Maybe weld some other brackets on the sides?

[swbhobie16]

I don't like the panhead idea, nor the tapping holes idea.
Maybe weld some other brackets on the sides?

what are your concerns with the ideas?

if it helps, the areas to be tapped/machined are 5/8”-11/16” of material. 1/4” plate of the main the body with 3/8”-7/16” plate welded to the corners where the bolts pass

[Bear9350]

I don't like the panhead idea, nor the tapping holes idea.
Maybe weld some other brackets on the sides?

what are your concerns with the ideas?

if it helps, the areas to be tapped/machined are 5/8”-11/16” of material. 1/4” plate of the main the body with 3/8”-7/16” plate welded to the corners where the bolts pass

It might be thick enough, but it is just mild steel.

[KensAuto]

Didn't realize it was that thick.
3 or4 per side ?, large...5/8"+ w/red loctite and lockwashers sounds maybe reasonable...?
Still doesn't give me warm and fuzzies Tbh, but I also tend to over engineer crap like this...but then again it's only going to be as strong as that section of frame.

[stlaser]

Right Ken, it’s still just a square body...... poke poke 

[KensAuto]

Right Ken, it’s still just a square body...... poke poke 

Don't you have a 24v to de-tune by installing a 210 pump?

[swbhobie16]

y’all are hilarious.

i talked to the machine shop guy. he’s doing 4 1/2x20 fine thread holes tapped all the way though. 1 1/2” grade 8 bolt has a single shear of 22k lbs. the threads will be deeper than the supplied nut from B&W and the grade 8s are stronger than the supplied carriage bolts as well (supplied were 1/2” coarse thread grade 5 [i believe] with a nut and washer)

but y’all are probably right.. i think that the frame will be the weak point in this whole deal. which i’m ok with. can’t do much about that..

[JR]

Seems like many of us like SB,,,,,,,,,

[swbhobie16]

Seems like many of us like SB,,,,,,,,,

SB..?

[JR]

Square Body

[swbhobie16]

Square Body

ahh. right. of course. lol. does anyone else here have a gooseneck hitch in a truck? i guess i should have asked before drilling holes in frames.. but the ball looks to be 4-5” forward of axle centerline. any issues with that? i think i’m ~5’ from the bed corner to ball and i think most goosenecks are at least 6’ to the front..

[KensAuto]

Just measured my '12 gmc w/B&W, 6.5' box. The center of the goose is about 5" forward of the center of the wheel wells, 35" from the front of the bed.

[swbhobie16]

Just measured my '12 gmc w/B&W, 6.5' box. The center of the goose is about 5" forward of the center of the wheel wells, 35" from the front of the bed.

how far is the balk from the bed corner? i’ll have to measure how far it is from the front of the bed. i’d guess somewhere in the 30-32” range? i think i’m 4’ from the back of the bed. and these are truly 6’6” beds. i think the newer ones (at least my f250) is 6’9” maybe..?

either way.. i guess i’m pretty close to being ‘right’ (with the manufacturer lol)

[JR]

Shouldn't it be forward of the axle a little? Wouldn't you need a little weight transfer and on a steep hill the CL would be behind the CL if centered, not good.

Axle CL seems the way to go.

[KensAuto]

What do you mean from the bed corner?

4 or 5" forward is probably perfect. Really doesn't matter about bed placement, unless needing room for a fifth wheel to keep from hitting the cab, but still needs to be forward of the axle.

[swbhobie16]

Shouldn't it be forward of the axle a little? Wouldn't you need a little weight transfer and on a steep hill the CL would be behind the CL if centered, not good.

Axle CL seems the way to go.

i agree. plus is helps push some weight on the front axle too. somewhat. not trying to pick it up from the back.

it may not ever get used but i want it to be there and capable lol. i mean why else put 7-800ft lbs in a truck and never hook to it?

[stlaser]

For what it’s worth in a former life when we would build a custom bed we placed them 6” forward of rear axle centerline.

[TexasRedNeck]

All good suggestions. You want weight transfer to the front axle. That’s where some of the extra capacity of the hitch system comes from. I’d go 6as hippy suggested.


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[swbhobie16]

so.. measured it today. 34.5” from the front. and. ~6” forward of axle center line.

i’m glad my guesstimating lined up with everyone’s suggestions. hopefully the hole comes out correct.

[swbhobie16]

i think i’m going to bump them down to 1 1/4” long.









also, the safety chain hooks will need to moved. in current location, they’re literally on the slope od the bed corrugations. so i’m going to move them 2” outboard so they’re in the bottom of the next channel.

[KensAuto]

Looks good.

Have you seen this truck? They used a 12v but the truck is similar in concept. I also didn't realize the rear seat was capable of folding into a bed on the Western Hauler crew cabs like the donor I have. Pretty cool.

https://youtu.be/vZ17YHSQ22A

[swbhobie16]

Looks good.

Have you seen this truck? They used a 12v but the truck is similar in concept. I also didn't realize the rear seat was capable of folding into a bed on the Western Hauler crew cabs like the donor I have. Pretty cool.

https://youtu.be/vZ17YHSQ22A

i like the extended cab area. but will be doing it on mine. it is a pretty slick ride though. for sure. may have just found the steering column too. i like that short little guy.

[TexasRedNeck]

What a cool truck


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[swbhobie16]

when doing these things.. i guess it’s expected that there will be custom mod on custom mod. this one included redrilled the safety chain hook holes. for some reason, they lined up with the interior slope of the next inboard corrugation. i couldn’t have that. so i lined the body up, measured out and redrilled to where the hooks sat center is the lower channel.









now that that is done and the rear cross member has been removed so the bed is sitting flat down on all 4 stringers.. i think the bed is ready to come off. along with the cab.

my real issue that i can see now is that the bed is sitting -1° down in the back while all the rest of the flat spots on the frame are at 0°? i even measured the rocker on the truck thinking it was off but it was dead on 0° too. any square body owners, do any of you have shims under the bed anywhere? i was worried that when i cut the frame and put it back together i dropped the tail end some but the rear section of frame all the way at the rear bumper is sitting at 0° as well. matches up to the section i cut both in front of an behind the cut, the main section under the cab and the flat section up front where the motor mounts bolt to the frame. i can’t tell where i’m off. or if my bed had shims under it from the factory. i don’t know but i just got the bed from a friend who pulled it out of a junk yard. i know it wasn’t as precise then as it is now.. i just want to make sure i didn’t royally mess something up or doing something wrong by shimming the bed and the cab some

[KensAuto]

If you want it perfect, shim it. Won't hurt a thing.

.. front of my bed.

[JR]

I shimmed my cab as it slopped down to the level bed, never an issue.

[swbhobie16]

awesome. i was hoping to see some shims under a bed out there somewhere. idk how much it’ll need. but i’m going to have to do something. it’s gotta be right.

[swbhobie16]

ok. so the bed is off for hopefully the final time. however, after some suspension about frame alignment, i found some C/K frame measurement diagrams.

and now there is some disturbing info. in my semi-haste to get the frame back together and just checking for square, it appears i was correct. the back of the frame is roughly 3/4” lower than it should be.

so.. question to both welders and body guys. should i cut the frame again and correct it? if i do cut.. do i cut it on same line i did originally or do i find somewhere else? i’m going to leave the top connected just to keep the length and square right.

or.. do i just body space the back up? i’d rather it be just frame.. 

[KensAuto]

3/4" is a pretty decent amount.

Judging by the quality of work you and your father do, I can imagine you kicking yourself in the butt if you don't"fix" it now while it's somewhat easy.

Other problem with shimming that much gap is that the ribs of the bed are meant to be supported by the frame along it's entirety (pretty sure), and would have to figure out how to retain shims where there isn't bolts.

That being said, guys have used body lifts forever and don't worry about bed support between the bolts.

[swbhobie16]

so.. here’s the situation



with both As at the same level (jacked it up to achieve) both Bs are suppose to be the same height from the ground. they’re not. by a fair amount. (3/4-7/8”)

(this information was found from a diagram online)

the next question is where to cut (assuming that’s the decision)



see if this makes sense. since all the bolt holes line up and the frame is dead on square, cut up from the bottom at either points A or B towards the top with cab supported. stop maybe 1” from top of frame or until movement can be achieved. set bed back on. lower jack until bed/body gap along with middle and rear measurements line up. tack on place. removed bed reweld and grind back clean. plate frame on inside and then for added assurance, box it there as well

i think it all occurred by being even 1/16” out top and bottom of cut and ground sections. 1/8” of play overall could easily account for 3/4”+ out 5’ away. my buddy i’m working with thinks it’s something with the frame and not what we did. it’s at his shop. hoping i can show him that between human error and missing that single measurement it’s off. not a huge error at the cut but the effects are shown down the line/frame. i told him it was my fault. which it was. i didn’t fully research it to ensure i had all the info and reference points.

does this seem like a reasonable fix? anyone see any strength issues i’m missing?

[stlaser]

I’d cut it on same line all the way up the vertical then do as you stated. I’d form a piece in a c shape to fit inside long enough if you scribed a 30 degree angle from top and bottom of cut in both directions the c shape would extend at least as far as those scribed lines. Then only box if you are doing that in other areas (not sure of your build plans exactly).

[JR]

I think as far out as it is, I would leave it unless you are doing something for a show vehicle that has to be right.

Shims don't hurt a thing. The bed is supported by the crossrails that the bolts run down through. As long as where the bolts go through you have support to the frame you are good for strength.

[stlaser]

Unless it’s Sema then it would fit right in JR..... 

[swbhobie16]

Unless it’s Sema then it would fit right in JR..... 

was that a jab at me.. or SEMA?  hahah.

i think ive decided to cut it and fix it now. otherwise i’ll be fighting and compromising from
now until the truck is done. and even after knowing it’s wonky. bumpers won’t fit right. hitch will be down. etc.

still have a few days to mull it over. i’ve been searching for reasons to not.. but i keep coming back to just fixing it

[stlaser]

Definitely not your work, some of the guys sending stuff to SEMA though leaves a lot to be desired.....

[swbhobie16]

so. do you agree that it needs to be sliced again and fixed??

[stlaser]

so. do you agree that it needs to be sliced again and fixed??

Yes, as I stated above. Otherwise knowing your build quality this is going to bother you. It’s a bummer but take the several hours and fix it now as it’s fairly easy to do.

[swbhobie16]

you’re not wrong. it’s all i would be able to think about while driving. or changing the oil. or just it sitting in the drive way.

[Bob Smith]

you’re not wrong. it’s all i would be able to think about while driving. or changing the oil. or just it sitting in the drive way.

And there is the answer to your question.. Shim it up and face these things or straighten it up and be done with it.. Better to be talking about how you needed to redo something than doing it the easy way and never being happy with the fix.

[JR]

Can't argue with that, I know the feeling. Get her right so it doesn't bother you forever.

[KensAuto]

so. do you agree that it needs to be sliced again and fixed??

Yes, as I stated above. Otherwise knowing your build quality this is going to bother you. It’s a bummer but take the several hours and fix it now as it’s fairly easy to do.

Exactly

[TexasRedNeck]

 Saw this.


https://frontstreet.media/2020/02/28/the-secrets-of-the-3200-horsepower-executioner-diesel-engine/


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[swbhobie16]

Saw this.


https://frontstreet.media/2020/02/28/the-secrets-of-the-3200-horsepower-executioner-diesel-engine/


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good gracious murphy..

it’s like the formula 1 motor for cummins. holy cow

[TexasRedNeck]

https://youtu.be/z-_RgB_-Ue0
Yup


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