REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: Flyin6 on November 16, 2018, 03:27:56 PM
-
Well, now he went and did it!
Yep, I just purchased a Suburban!
I have been off looking at all sorts of vehicles, a XJ for the oldest pre-ranger, something for me, and a newer jeep for the Mrs.
I have always scanned the classifieds for a great Suburban and this morning I ran across one. It is somewhat of a time capsule in that it looks almost new. Only the undercarriage gives a clue to its real age, but even that is in really great condition. The selling dealer who sells classic vehicles does a comprehensive inspection to everything he intakes. He didn't find a single gripe on this pristine example.
So, it's a 2002 Suburban 2500, 8 lug axle, heavy duty burb with the LQ4 6.0 liter and a 4l80-E transmission and has 4.10 gears.
-
Suburbans have to be my favorite vehicles of all time. We have owned them in the past and without one I have felt "Without" since that time. Sure the D-Max truck fills the void, but I just like all the room in that burb.
As you can see, it is in great condition!
-
Even on top!
-
There is no LTZ in this year, so the LT was as nice as you could get. After decoding the build tag, I discovered premium acrutments literally everywhere.
-
Congrats. I’ll just leave this here for you
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mps-011959983bl/make/gmc
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Just look at the underhood scene:
-
Congrats. I’ll just leave this here for you
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mps-011959983bl/make/gmc
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
;-)
-
Is that an AWACS pod on top?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
The interior looks equally as good
-
I'll be starting with 96,000 miles
These 6.0 LS motors last a very long time
-
Dash:
-
some more shots:
-
Craigslist items:
-
Undercarriage:
-
I purchased it from Rob at 4-Wheel Classics in Michigan
https://www.4-wheelclassics.com/vehicles
-
The plan for this thing is to make it a fun driver/adventure vehicle that will see a lot of farm related off road ventures. It will tow trailers and carry my wife to broadway on occasion.
First, after receiving it, (It must be shipped from MI to KY) I'll go all over it and see if it needs anything and probably (Just) change the oils. Assuming there is little to do here, I'll just drive it for a time to see what it needs.
I can see a quick upgrade to HID headlights followed by a new head unit with GPS and smart phone blue tooth.
Of course the engine will get more power, or maybe, possibly see a duramax fall into the fenders...possibly.
More than likely, I'd just retain the services of this venerable 6.0
I can see a 6" lift along with 35" tires
I think some tuning and transmission tuning is in the works.
It already has 4.10 gears, so I am not anticipating a change there staying with a 35" tire
It has the largest brakes offered on a HD truck already, so no improvements required there
I can see front and rear bumpers with the aft member carrying the spare
I see a roof rack to replace the AWACS unit and additional lighting
I definitely see some AMP research steps to help the high-heeled family members ingress and egress operations.
It should get some weapons, some pioneer gear a bug out bag, some recovery equipment, a winch and a prayer for a long safe life.
-
Very clean for a Midwest truck... :likebutton:
-
Very clean for a Midwest truck... :likebutton:
The truck came from Oregon
The dealer searches OR, CA, WA, TX and so forth for rust free examples
-
And yet the square land mark gets pushed Farther into the weeds
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
DURABURB! DURABURB! Seriously jealous right now sir. Almost messed myself laughing at the AWACS comment Tex.
-
Oh SNAP! he said “oil change”
Seriously Don that is one sweet truck. I’d have bought it too
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
That is the cleanest 2002 I have seen. Sweet!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Surprised you didn't do the Duraburb, getting real common.
You found a nice one there, 9.5SF rear with tires/wheels and my favorite color!!
Start with a nice tune, exhaust and level kit.
I say mount the guns in the AWAC pod,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
-
Surprised you didn't do the Duraburb, getting real common.
You found a nice one there, 9.5SF rear with tires/wheels and my favorite color!!
Start with a nice tune, exhaust and level kit.
I say mount the guns in the AWAC pod,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Semi-floater JR?
That's a no-go!
No problem, Duane has a new 14 bolt full floater out of an 8.1L surb, about the same year. He scored a takeout from a brand new burb which was being upgraded nearby for work in Baghdad.
I was going to go after a grizzly locker anyway, so all the more reason!
-
That is a nice burb for sure. Not only is it sweet, it still has a drain on the factory radiator!
..oh, and cabin filters!
-
And yet the square land mark gets pushed Farther into the weeds
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yea, so
I have been struggling with this for some time. It needs a bit of work to get it across the finish line. But then it can seat two, maybe three. That was always a sticking point for me.
The burb answers all the space problems
So I'll probably break down SquareD into parts and sell them off or use them on this current project. Unfortunately it's worth more in parts than as a whole. Anyone interested in it before disassembly starts PM me.
-
That is a nice burb for sure. Not only is it sweet, it still has a drain on the factory radiator!
..oh, and cabin filters!
What do I need to change out/improve to get the thing bullet proof Ken?
And as far as the motor
Supercharger?
Turbocharger?
Heads/cam/headers/tune?
Stay 4.10 or go 4.56?
Lift?? (I could never leave it un-lifted with the terrain it will have to negotiate. 4" or 6"?
Trans??? Shift kit, or tuning or both?
-
Saw that roof carrier and thought it might be the next tac-topper...
That’s a gem of a truck right there Don. I’d love a mid-2000’s burb but the wife wants newer...$$$$
I learned to drive in a 2002 burb (and a land yacht Buick), so this build will be near and dear to me lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Have to lift it? You and Mike were able to get your trailers to The Farm, and they didn't appear to be lifted. ;)
I probably love to modify things (close to) as much as you, but...
Honestly, I would consider leaving it non-molested, being the peach that it is. Maybe some 31s, synthetics everywhere, and GTG past 200k.
-
^^^^^YES^^^^^ :beercheers:
-
You won't be happy with mileage I am sure. Same setup my 06 had and 10-13 was normal not pushing it.
-
I like it.
-
I think it looks good the way it sits Don. I wouldnt lift it. Free up the exhaust and maybe a supercharger,
Those interior parts are getting harder and harder to find. The Graphite I have in the 2001 is super hard to find and I am always on the lookout for spares. I would start keeping an eye out for parts that are going to wear eventually as they aren't made any more and NOS is almost non existent.
-
Not lift it?
Are you people crazy?
Have you lost your minds?
I'm going to sign off, then sign back in and try to forget those words were EVER spoken
I need to find that button that fires everyone all at once!!!!!!!
;-))
-
Sh!t I didn’t say not to lift it. Put that puppy 10 inches in the air solid axle swap it and 1ton running gear!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Sh!t I didn’t say not to lift it. Put that puppy 10 inches in the air solid axle swap it and 1ton running gear!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now you're talkin'
-
I feel better now
Dave...
At least one person here has some sense!
-
I think it looks good the way it sits Don. I wouldnt lift it. Free up the exhaust and maybe a supercharger,
Those interior parts are getting harder and harder to find. The Graphite I have in the 2001 is super hard to find and I am always on the lookout for spares. I would start keeping an eye out for parts that are going to wear eventually as they aren't made any more and NOS is almost non existent.
Copy that Tex
So I was looking at crutchfield for a head unit. I am wanting a GPS/receiver with smart phone compatibility.
But the dash takes some reworking. I noticed that a new dash overlay plastic piece is offered that opens the physical space up to modern dimensions. I'll be adding that to be sure.
-
I like it.
Ah, a man with good taste!
I always liked you!
-
You won't be happy with mileage I am sure. Same setup my 06 had and 10-13 was normal not pushing it.
Yea, I owned a Hummer H2 with the LQ4. I'd say around 10MPG is normal
-
Saw that roof carrier and thought it might be the next tac-topper...
That’s a gem of a truck right there Don. I’d love a mid-2000’s burb but the wife wants newer...$$$$
I learned to drive in a 2002 burb (and a land yacht Buick), so this build will be near and dear to me lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don't listen to her!
Do it, get into the "Older is better" thing
I mean, hey, just look at me!
Anyway, what's a divorce cost these days? Not much, and you'll be in the clear in 20-30 years!
-
Don. There is a company that retro fits the stock headunit to have Bluetooth and line outs for an amp. Keep it stick looking. The bezel you speak of is only made in black
Also if you ignore sage advice and do lift it. I need the crossmember and the little piece you have to saw off the crossmember mounting pocket please.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I agree don’t lift it to the moon, at most a 2-3inch & even then I think it’s a poor choice. If you want larger tires I would say mod the fender wells.
-
I agree don’t lift it to the moon, at most a 2-3inch & even then I think it’s a poor choice. If you want larger tires I would say mod the fender wells.
Blasphemy!
I'll hear no more, and you all will hear no more from this peasant, I'll ban him right away...If I can remember how to do that...
Seriously, it just looks too low for my liking. And although the lower stockish stance would fit better with the family vibe, it would not do so well on the terrain at the farm while pulling a trailer up and over the berms
-
Here is the same generation burb on 35's with a 6 in lift
-
To tall, keep a lower cog.....
Especially if you’re planning on a rack / basket system
Ground clearance? You’re not rock crawling, you’re navigating a farm that had rv’s pulled into it with relative ease.....
-
To tall, keep a lower cog.....
Especially if you’re planning on a rack / basket system
Ground clearance? You’re not rock crawling, you’re navigating a farm that had rv’s pulled into it with relative ease.....
Man, I've lost it!
I thought that 6" looks like the way it should have been built at the factory
Well maybe a bit above that, but I like the stance.
On the other hand it would cost a whole lot less to have a 33" tire and not need steps with a 3" lift, and handle a bit better, and...and...and, well, I'm starting to not like myself 8-/
-
I looked up the build codes for this thing:
-
I like it.
Ah, a man with good taste!
I always liked you!
You just want someone to come clear cut trees.
-
Don, if you decide to regear and lift. I have a front 9.5 IFS housing with the ear off, 4.56 gears and setup stuff from randys for a killer price!
Unless you go SAS????????????
-
Don. There is a company that retro fits the stock headunit to have Bluetooth and line outs for an amp. Keep it stick looking. The bezel you speak of is only made in black
Also if you ignore sage advice and do lift it. I need the crossmember and the little piece you have to saw off the crossmember mounting pocket please.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And on that note, the pre-2003 trucks cant accept a double-din stereo in that opening without hacking things up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Ryan there is a new bezel kit that allows double din wo cutting.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Man am I behind the times, I don't even know what a double din is! Something like two scoops of icecream in my waffle cone, just biggerer?
-
Don't feel bad Don, I have no idea either. Push a button and the sound happens, don't like the sound turn the button.
-
I may be wrong but I am pretty sure you can get the dash piece from a newer version chev truck or burb that has the double din dash in it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I thought there was an issue in the dash too, not just the outer bezel. Obviously I haven’t really researched it. I’ll leave that up to y’all ;)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Well, I least of all know, but will be learning soon enough
After getting the thing, I'll do the general maintenance thing, then install HIDs then probably next up will be the receiver/GPS thing.
At the moment, our newest member is Rob, the gentleman who sold the truck to me, is trying to schedule shipping of the Burb to me for Monday late afternoon. More on that to come.
-
Well shoot, has anyone warned Rob about you yet?
-
Well shoot, has anyone warned Rob about you yet?
What warning? The fires everyone when he feels like it? Or starts lots of projects but doesn’t finish? Warn him of the bosses underlying fear that if he finishes square D we will all leave the forum and he will be left to his own thoughts and Christmas related rants?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
No. Using a bezel from a later model does not work. There are YouTube vids on guys that did it but they have to get the radio basket and modify the ac controls too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
OK, I've investigated this on YouTube and now know a bit more than I did earlier.
It seems the 2002 is a din and a half. So is Din a unit of measurement?
Anyway, here is a good vid of a gentleman who did the mod. There are apparently other ways to get this done, but this seems reasonable enough.
Below is a pic of my stock radio in the burb.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=installing+double+din+radio+into+2002+suburban&&view=detail&mid=A8E85A8C6344C5A394A0A8E85A8C6344C5A394A0&&FORM=VRDGAR
-
Not sure about din but I had a unit of measurement in my shop called dim & it went something like this.
You know that guy over their licking the window is really dim! :tongue:
-
Not sure about din but I had a unit of measurement in my shop called dim & it went something like this.
You know that guy over their licking the window is really dim! :tongue:
Seen a few of those...
-
Nice find Chief! That’ll be a good rig, especially once it’s duraburbed!!! However I too am on the minimal lift crowd.
I mean, once it’s got a duramax, just put some 1/2” bumpers on both ends, and some home made rock sliders to direct vehicles being pushed out of the way by the bumpers!!! No need for a giant lift.
Also, that guy has some nice rigs in there, particularly the Bronco Sport.
-
Double Din? As in " I doubly din do nuffin" ?
Shawn says that all the time, right before he gets fired.
-
Think my dmax could use a new head with GPS.
Now lets not DOT this up to much until it gets delivered at least!
-
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-Double-Install-1999-02-Silverado/dp/B01D28EHYG/ref=asc_df_B01D28EHYG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142335725&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16126251238741970652&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027124&hvtargid=pla-569790244024&psc=1
https://www.silveradosierra.com/mobile-electronics/1999-2002-double-din-install-t450953.html
And in case you want to do it the hard way
https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/stereo-buildup-dd-convert-coming.77575/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Here is ours. We've got 175K trouble free miles. Rebuild the front end, add the pit man and idle arm support kit.
Schedule and appointment with Black Bear Performance and have it tuned.
I leveled the front of ours and bumped the tires up to 265/75/16. 4.10s and 35s will be a dog. Been there done that.
Put a bigger transmission cooler on it.
I also ditched the clutch fan due to wanting better AC performance in Texas summers. On road trips we see 15 MPG (barely) and ave 12 every where else.
Dont pull into a gas station on a road trip and not turn it off: https://www.rv.net/FORUM/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23822076/
Before spending cash on HID, try grounding the low beam to the frame that way when you kick the highs on the lows will stay on. More than enough light.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e244/akcooper9/2500%20Yukon%20XL/2015-05-13%2018.26.05_zpskccawriy.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e244/akcooper9/2500%20Yukon%20XL/2015-05-13%2018.25.45_zpsg7uz9i14.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e244/akcooper9/2500%20Yukon%20XL/2016-05-22%2020.05.20_zpswdmukerf.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e244/akcooper9/2500%20Yukon%20XL/2015-06-062008.34.28_zpsknkycpde.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e244/akcooper9/2500%20Yukon%20XL/2015-09-26%2014.32.24_zpsvbtbgboi.jpg)
-
That’s a good lookin rig too. I want a Burb when I get old now to.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
The outpouring against lifting this truck is amazing, something I never expected.
I'll thoughtfully consider everyone's sentiment...
I do not think I will dura-max this one. I was thinking of doing something subtle but amazing with the 6.0
Take a look at "On-3 performance."
They make turbocharger parts and kits and for this application. The kits are pretty simple bolt ons that produce striking results. On bone stock 5.3's they make 550 HP and 575 torque at 7 psi. On 6.0's they are pushing 600 hp with the smaller turbo. Step up to their next turbo and tune for 10 psi and these engines make 700+ HP and 750+ Torque. You can always lean on the thing and push well over a thousand HP.
A small turbo kit coming in at 600/600 would be just fine and make for a surprising driver.
-
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-Double-Install-1999-02-Silverado/dp/B01D28EHYG/ref=asc_df_B01D28EHYG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142335725&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16126251238741970652&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027124&hvtargid=pla-569790244024&psc=1
https://www.silveradosierra.com/mobile-electronics/1999-2002-double-din-install-t450953.html
And in case you want to do it the hard way
https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/stereo-buildup-dd-convert-coming.77575/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you sir, good reference
Now
That earned you a bonus pass
You can use it the next time you get fired or banned here to immediately reinstate.
(People like Shawn and anyone named Dave has never seen such a thing)
-
That’s a good lookin rig too. I want a Burb when I get old now to.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First off, you're fired
See the above post
Secondly, you're right, being old and driving a kia crusher is definitely the way to go
-
I think leveled or a small lift would be about perfect. When it comes time for the bumpers let me know if I can be of assistance. I built a set for a 2001 2500 truck last winter. The front bumper was a cross between a 1500 and 2500HD I believe. The rear was the same 1500 bumper I build for every GM truck from 2001 to 2013.
-
I think leveled or a small lift would be about perfect. When it comes time for the bumpers let me know if I can be of assistance. I built a set for a 2001 2500 truck last winter. The front bumper was a cross between a 1500 and 2500HD I believe. The rear was the same 1500 bumper I build for every GM truck from 2001 to 2013.
This sounds cool on the bumper thing...gettin you knuckleheads involved in this project...
So for a front bumper I was either going to purchase an ARB bull bar setup or build it meself.
For the rear, I'd like something like the Road Armor on C-Max. Spare tire and gas/water can rack
-
OK, found a lift kit that looks like a good compromise.
A Rough Country 3"
Run that with 32" or 33" tires
Could I get an ah-men on that?
From anybody (Not named Dave)
-
That, and add in the cognito HD idler, truss kit, HD tie rods, flip the U-bolts (Shawn), and air bag it
Still lookin' for that Ah-men
Remember who you're dealin' with here
Hold out too long and I'll have a 12" lift and tractor tires on it!
-
Ok...aaaaamennnnn, even tho it's still a lift.
-
I know my name is Dave and I am fired but isn’t there a rancho 4 inch that would allow the 33’s more room? Tough country has one also
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
12inch lift with tractor tires??? DARE YA :facepalm:
-
That, and add in the cognito HD idler, truss kit, HD tie rods, flip the U-bolts (Shawn), and air bag it
Still lookin' for that Ah-men
Remember who you're dealin' with here
Hold out too long and I'll have a 12" lift and tractor tires on it!
I do have some hd top plates for a ubolt flip
-
I know my name is Dave and I am fired but isn’t there a rancho 4 inch that would allow the 33’s more room? Tough country has one also
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Buy a quality small lift if you’re going that route, those are about rock bottom....
-
That, and add in the cognito HD idler, truss kit, HD tie rods, flip the U-bolts (Shawn), and air bag it
Still lookin' for that Ah-men
Remember who you're dealin' with here
Hold out too long and I'll have a 12" lift and tractor tires on it!
I do have some hd top plates for a ubolt flip
I'm still running yours on my D-Max truck
I'll be putting together an order from you after I get the truck
The HD U-Bolt plates, a diff cover, not sure what else yet...
-
I know my name is Dave and I am fired but isn’t there a rancho 4 inch that would allow the 33’s more room? Tough country has one also
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Buy a quality small lift if you’re going that route, those are about rock bottom....
Suggestions??
I have the recommendation from Dave, but he's currently fired, so I have to disregard ;-0
He thinks I'd be GTG with the tuff country 4"
Personally I was thinking of one of the 4/6 inch kits that drop the front diff and hopefully don't space out the front wheels
-
I don’t think you can lift an OBS truck without increasing the track width. Unless you drop the upper a arm with a bracket lift.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Keep in mind that on that year truck, the front diff on the drivers side dosent like to release the cv shaft due to the "C" clip that was used on the inside of that diff.
-
If you stick with a spindle loft your track width stays the same. Or do I have that backwards?
Why are we not just ordering a kit from WFO and putting 37’s on this truck so the tires are double duty between the c max and the “S-maX”?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
That, and add in the cognito HD idler, truss kit, HD tie rods, flip the U-bolts (Shawn), and air bag it
Still lookin' for that Ah-men
Remember who you're dealin' with here
Hold out too long and I'll have a 12" lift and tractor tires on it!
I do have some hd top plates for a ubolt flip
I'm still running yours on my D-Max truck
I'll be putting together an order from you after I get the truck
The HD U-Bolt plates, a diff cover, not sure what else yet...
:likebutton:
-
I think you have it backwards.
Spindles have to clear the tire so the tire has to move out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Zone has a 3” I’d look at if it were me....
-
If you stick with a spindle loft your track width stays the same. Or do I have that backwards?
Why are we not just ordering a kit from WFO and putting 37’s on this truck so the tires are double duty between the c max and the “S-maX”?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No worky senor'
2002: 8 on 6.5"
2011: 8 on 180 mm (Bit mo bigger)
-
THis may be the most active build thread on the interweb that doesn't actually have a vehicle yet!
-
THis may be the most active build thread on the interweb that doesn't actually have a vehicle yet!
This wouldn’t be anything new really. I mean sq d is probably the most active thread on the Intarweb that hasn’t been touched in a coons age....
-
I’m just waiting to see what he does to the engine, I’m pretty sure it’s the same one I have in my 04 2500 Express. Of course I probably won’t be putting on the lift or the tires....plus mine has about 480k on it too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I like the turbo idea. I wish the 6.2td made that power.
I did the level kit Don and eat parts all day. Reason I am going with SAS over the lift.
Now the Conito lift NTBD only adds 1/2 width, but is pricy (now that I sold mine) You will want better shocks and 35s push a level kit!
-
Keep in mind that on that year truck, the front diff on the drivers side dosent like to release the cv shaft due to the "C" clip that was used on the inside of that diff.
X5000!^^^^ remove the breather assembly to gain access to the end of the stub shaft, contact with a long punch and have the pre-ranger on the flange with the slide hammer and coordinate your strikes, you should be gtg. get it even the slightest bit off center and you might be buying JR's case to replace the one you just fragged.
Full floater from Duane should work perfectly, 00-04 are of the same lineage.
I know from Les Schwab days you can stuff 33" under the existing suspension with a level kit and bumper trim. I've had guys just crank up the torsion bars to achieve this, albeit the wrong way, but you could just get the right porkchops, throw some good billstiens on there and be done with it.
-
Keep in mind that on that year truck, the front diff on the drivers side doesn't like to release the cv shaft due to the "C" clip that was used on the inside of that diff.
I don't quite understand this, and what Tate agreed with 5,000 times. So don't the CV shafts just unbolt with the six standard bolts from these front shafts? I'm just not picturing what's different.
-
Yeah, they unbolt, but the axle stub shaft is a pain to get out, on the right side.
-
2002 Suburban loaded on trailer and will be delivered tomorrow.
Thanks Don!
-
check out this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fwKwbz4ZB4
-
2002 Suburban loaded on trailer and will be delivered tomorrow.
Thanks Don!
Rob,
You're welcome!
I got a call from Ken, the driver. He tells me I will be getting the Burb TONIGHT around 2030!
Wow
That about as quick as I could walk into a local dealership, search for, find, negotiate, and take delivery of something
Folks,
This was a pleasant experience working with Rob. I'll say that, yes it is a bit unusual purchasing a vehicle you have never seen before, and having to wire loads of money off without anything to show for it. But good things do happen, and when this "Super-Burb" shows up it will serve as a testimony that these transactions can work out.
-
Don, the stub axles are retained in the housing with clips that supposed to just pull out, but don't like to.
I am running 35s with a level kit and trimmed fenders, no rubbing.
-
Careful Big D, you know how those guys named Ken can be....
-
His GF scares me more.
-
^^^ You people! ^^^^
-
5 pages of talkin' and still no truck on my proper-tee!
Gossipers
So, yea, meee too, I know, yada, yada, yada
five pages of thread cloggin, and no Suburban! And, I just laid down some green over at OReillys for a Wix oil filter, some Mobil uno, some other chems and things to get me started buildin' a new driveway off memory lane with this next money pit.
Truck should be here in a few hours.
-
OK, we now have a build thread with a truck!
It was delivered an hour ago, which was fast since it was picked up at the dealership somewhere around noon.
-
Those marks on the side are part reflection and part road dust from the transport drive down
The paint is nearly flawless. I found one retouched area so far, a small one where a nick on one of the fender flares was retouched.
It has two key fobs, the owners manual, both wireless headsets, the remote for the rear video player, wheel and topper keys
-
The leather is supple and without any tears, it looks nearly as good as the exterior
-
This, however, will have to change!
-
So thinking that topper can sport a hidden mini gun right?
-
Hey, my ides already!!
I don't think the wheel well space is an issue as long as you fill it from the bottom and sides.
I can hear the TB crank debate starting again!
-
So did square D just get shoved outside in the weeds to make room for this one?!? :cry:
It does look really good though. Kind of afraid to say I am also in the camp of "leave it alone". It's probably the best example left. But we all know you won't. So at least let us watch the train wreck! :popcorn:
-
So did square D just get shoved outside in the weeds to make room for this one?!? :cry:
It does look really good though. Kind of afraid to say I am also in the camp of "leave it alone". It's probably the best example left. But we all know you won't. So at least let us watch the train wreck! :popcorn:
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
-
So did square D just get shoved outside in the weeds to make room for this one?!? :cry:
It does look really good though. Kind of afraid to say I am also in the camp of "leave it alone". It's probably the best example left. But we all know you won't. So at least let us watch the train wreck! :popcorn:
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Gotta say I’m in the leave it camp too.
Maybe a bit more tire with a different backspace to allow a fit.
But since we all know what a big D oil change means...
:popcorn:
:popcorn:
-
So did square D just get shoved outside in the weeds to make room for this one?!? :cry:
It does look really good though. Kind of afraid to say I am also in the camp of "leave it alone". It's probably the best example left. But we all know you won't. So at least let us watch the train wreck! :popcorn:
Square D has been parked at a shop a few miles away for months now lol.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Well, I didn't buy it to leave it alone
I mean are you kiddin' me?
I can see, more and more that maybe it doesn't need to be transformed into a Bradley fighting vehicle but I JUST DON'T LIKE STOCK!
I'd be happy with subtle mods that work vs something that is way off of normal.
To me, that could be a 3" lift along with the correct offset wheels (Thinking 4.75" BS on a 9" wheel) 17" wheels instead of the 16" stockers and 33" tires. The tires would not be AT's but MT's because of the mud I have to work with, and I think I'll add a Grizzly locker out back. I can see building the trans some and going to a turbo setup on the engine but keeping it all quiet. I want something like an ARB bull bumper with a 12K winch and a rear bumper with a tire carrier. I want a roof rack where I can mount things like a tent and a bunch of additional lighting, although some may be hidden. I want seat covers, something perhaps water resistant, a nice GPS receiver, and the HID's I mentioned before. Aside from that, I plan to ditch the third row and kit the back cargo area out with some rescue/survival stuff leaving enough space for me to snuggle in a sleeping bag if I want to.
All of that will take a year or more to get done, while fitting those projects in with the farm, domestic stuff, church, family and who knows what. We'll see how it unfolds...
I didn't get to it today. I worked on my garage 7.5 hours, reconfiguring it to hold two big Chevies now. By the time I was done it was 1900 and I was pooped and frozen. The chicken my lovely wife cooked put the last nail in the coffin, I'm ready for my much needed beauty sleep!
-
Beauty sleep, definitely something we can’t argue that big D doesn’t need....
I did notice my mini gun idea got filed in the oval file cabinet though!
-
Do the tires in square D still have air? Did the shop owner that moved shop ever move the truck?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Do the tires in square D still have air? Did the shop owner that moved shop ever move the truck?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ya know, I don't know. He said he was moving it some time ago, I just took him at his word, I never checked
-
Do the tires in square D still have air? Did the shop owner that moved shop ever move the truck?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ya know, I don't know. He said he was moving it some time ago, I just took him at his word, I never checked
You should probably go get it and bring it home. Let it rest and protect concrete at home while you figure out the plan....
-
I can confirm that it was moved......or stolen, it wasn’t in the same spot anymore last Friday.
Scratch that, nobody could have stolen it without a tow truck, owner must have moved it. :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Do we want to just dig a big hole farmside and plant it under a big oak tree?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Maybe he could park it at the entrance of the farm and have it ready block the gate when SHTF!!
Store stuff in the back, extra diesel in the tanks and he never has to worry about blowing up the rear as Koot told him.
Now hear is a funny thing, I am liking the 6.2TD so far. Its no Dmax, but runs good.
-
I started watching the walking dead series and I see old trucks like square D sitting in over grown grass and it just sounds like a good idea. We park it in front of the gate at the hide, anyone who sees it recognizes it as a sign of safety ahead and can come with hands held high as we know done will be there to run us over with a green tractor
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I started watching the walking dead series and I see old trucks like square D sitting in over grown grass and it just sounds like a good idea. We park it in front of the gate at the hide, anyone who sees it recognizes it as a sign of safety ahead and can come with hands held high as we know done will be there to run us over with a green tractor
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dave,
In all likelihood, the green tractor will be broken down.
I am seriously considering breaking it down into parts and selling to recoup my investment. I don't know if I have the time or "drive" to tackle that thing anymore. So much else that I do is more important. I mentioned that there is a "problem" with the thing that is nearly insurmountable, and aside from that when I finally get it done, it will only fit two peeps.
Kat suggested yesterday that I remove all the expensive parts, then install a "Normal" engine and transmission and give it to the oldest pre-ranger as his first "Car." That suggestion is actually gaining some traction in my mind...
-
I think we move it to another state where that insurmountable mountain is much easier to pass with a simple phone call and a “lost something or another” filed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I started watching the walking dead series and I see old trucks like square D sitting in over grown grass and it just sounds like a good idea. We park it in front of the gate at the hide, anyone who sees it recognizes it as a sign of safety ahead and can come with hands held high as we know done will be there to run us over with a green tractor
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dave,
In all likelihood, the green tractor will be broken down.
I am seriously considering breaking it down into parts and selling to recoup my investment. I don't know if I have the time or "drive" to tackle that thing anymore. So much else that I do is more important. I mentioned that there is a "problem" with the thing that is nearly insurmountable, and aside from that when I finally get it done, it will only fit two peeps.
Kat suggested yesterday that I remove all the expensive parts, then install a "Normal" engine and transmission and give it to the oldest pre-ranger as his first "Car." That suggestion is actually gaining some traction in my mind...
So something such as a 318?
-
318?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Guessing he meant a v8 5.2L gasser?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_LA_engine
-
Guessing he meant a v8 5.2L gasser?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_LA_engine
Yep, one of those. I’m pretty sure it was still an offering in 92, which I think is the model year of sq d. It’s definitely on the small scale of the V8s, but it would be a direct bolt in as far as I’m aware. However I may be wrong so don’t quote me :)
Or maybe the 5.9l that dodge also rocked many years?
-
Sell those bumpers, shed about 1000lbs and then the 318 might be able to move it too.
-
How about destroying the truck even more and slap in a 3 speed behind a 225 slant 6.
:rollseyeswith45pointedatmyhead
Hmm... emoji broken
-
I only suggest because I want to see a build thread based on one, not because it would really work very well with this big of a truck. How about you drop in a cummins 2.8R crate motor and use a known good transmission that is designed to work with that engine. At least you would avoid the engine and transmission concerns. I think the rest of the truck works fine as it is. Still probably want to take off the expensive parts and return it to a cheaper (more teenage friendly) version.
-
So Tate what happens when the axle is hit with the punch? Does it break the c clip?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Sell those bumpers, shed about 1000lbs and then the 318 might be able to move it too.
It moves ours well enough! But ours also only weighed out at 5450!!!
-
GOOD STUFF!! Ive always got a spot for family hauler that's done up just right and that's a good platform. I just sold my excursion :cry: and went back to a duramax.. been a short 2 years ish.. but I just missed the truck so much.. but ill tell you my wife thought I was crazy that I was considering a DURABURB to replace the excursion.. CHEKC THIS OUT
https://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/d/duramax-suburban/6750240826.html
-
I started watching the walking dead series and I see old trucks like square D sitting in over grown grass and it just sounds like a good idea. We park it in front of the gate at the hide, anyone who sees it recognizes it as a sign of safety ahead and can come with hands held high as we know done will be there to run us over with a green tractor
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dave,
In all likelihood, the green tractor will be broken down.
I am seriously considering breaking it down into parts and selling to recoup my investment. I don't know if I have the time or "drive" to tackle that thing anymore. So much else that I do is more important. I mentioned that there is a "problem" with the thing that is nearly insurmountable, and aside from that when I finally get it done, it will only fit two peeps.
Kat suggested yesterday that I remove all the expensive parts, then install a "Normal" engine and transmission and give it to the oldest pre-ranger as his first "Car." That suggestion is actually gaining some traction in my mind...
So something such as a 318?
No. a 6BT with the rotary pump, as in what came stock in it
-
I started watching the walking dead series and I see old trucks like square D sitting in over grown grass and it just sounds like a good idea. We park it in front of the gate at the hide, anyone who sees it recognizes it as a sign of safety ahead and can come with hands held high as we know done will be there to run us over with a green tractor
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dave,
In all likelihood, the green tractor will be broken down.
I am seriously considering breaking it down into parts and selling to recoup my investment. I don't know if I have the time or "drive" to tackle that thing anymore. So much else that I do is more important. I mentioned that there is a "problem" with the thing that is nearly insurmountable, and aside from that when I finally get it done, it will only fit two peeps.
Kat suggested yesterday that I remove all the expensive parts, then install a "Normal" engine and transmission and give it to the oldest pre-ranger as his first "Car." That suggestion is actually gaining some traction in my mind...
So something such as a 318?
No. a 6BT with the rotary pump, as in what came stock in it
Well shoot, I got a fully functional one of those in the garage!!! Call me sometime if that’s the route you want to go maybe I can afford to trade you.
-
Nice looking suburban there Chief. A coworker of mine has just enough lift on a f150 to run 285/75r17 Toyos . I think they measure out around 34.5”. If I remember correctly he gained over 5” at the frame from stock with that setup. That is a darn good sounding compromise to me. A tire that size shouldn’t have any trouble clearing with this BDS 4.5” kit.
(the link will pull up the 7” kit but there a tab to see the 4.5” version)
http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=5&mo=5&ty=1&yr=2001-2010
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Nice looking suburban there Chief. A coworker of mine has just enough lift on a f150 to run 285/75r17 Toyos . I think they measure out around 34.5”. If I remember correctly he gained over 5” at the frame from stock with that setup. That is a darn good sounding compromise to me. A tire that size shouldn’t have any trouble clearing with this BDS 4.5” kit.
(the link will pull up the 7” kit but there a tab to see the 4.5” version)
http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=5&mo=5&ty=1&yr=2001-2010
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I like that!
-
So Tate what happens when the axle is hit with the punch? Does it break the c clip?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Slide hammer and punch simultaneously allow that spiral wound snap ring to roll out as intended without snagging on the lip of the case half and taking it with it.
-
GOOD STUFF!! Ive always got a spot for family hauler that's done up just right and that's a good platform. I just sold my excursion :cry: and went back to a duramax.. been a short 2 years ish.. but I just missed the truck so much.. but ill tell you my wife thought I was crazy that I was considering a DURABURB to replace the excursion.. CHEKC THIS OUT
https://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/d/duramax-suburban/6750240826.html
whoa, that's in my neck of the woods and I'm still down a Yukon... hmmm.
-
That's a deal for that. I'm at 160k and going strong.
-
Can I have my thread for just a minute?
Thanks...
So I got started on the evaluation of the vehicle mechanically, and it is about what I expected.
I'll post pics this evening, but when I pulled a spark plug (Man, that was weird...haven't seen one of those things for a good while), I noted the electrode to be red. Haven't seen that before. Chocolate brown, yes, Black, yes, white, yes, but red? I also noted it to be gapped at a wide .065"
Next item: I noted the radiator coolant to be redish/orange and at the proper level. THe reservoir tank was somewhat cloudy and ugly looking inside, so I have decided to change the coolant. I think I'll install a new T-stat. What are the recommendations out there as to what temp T-stat to install.
I'm just working to baseline the truck for now. Unlike SquareD, I do not plan to tear it all down for three years, but, rather, drive it while it is being modded. By getting everything perfect, I can probably only have to react to problems I create, and not ones that are lurking and awaiting to entrap me in some distant mudhole!
-
Don't remember red spark plugs but years ago when I had a little hot rod I ran Exxon Super Unleaded in when the timing was retarded for street use, it had a red dye and it turned the intake runners in the manifold and heads turn red.....
I'd keep the t stat at stock temp. Too many computer controlled devices dependent upon coolant temp to chance a change in t stat temp.
Now can we get back to Dottin'?
-
Oh and check/replace the heater hose connections at the firewall. They are a plastic QD type and they break and fail and will leave you stranded. You can run standard hose clamps and be fail proof.
-
You know, thinking Don is getting soft in his older age. I mean we used to Dot for pages and now if someone comments about his stockish looking tires in one post he gets all uptight! :popcorn:
-
You know, thinking Don is getting soft in his older age. I mean we used to Dot for pages and now if someone comments about his stockish looking tires in one post he gets all uptight! :popcorn:
Not uptight
Just a little hungry
Need a snickers...
-
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/a2ec31ff5aca1daa70151c2e49b123cb.jpg)
I’m fired
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
ROFL
-
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/a2ec31ff5aca1daa70151c2e49b123cb.jpg)
I’m fired
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, Yes you are
Check back in a few years for reinstatement follow on refusal...
-
Getting started on it finally
Trying to scratch out a few minutes here and there can be a real challenge sometimes
Anyway, starting with the evaluation, everything I checked in here, visually was in tip-top condition, mostly.
-
I pulled the air filter...
Seems fine to me. It had been rubbing against the snorkel in the lower section of the box, but other than that, was not too old
-
Here is that strange red colored electrode insulator. Gap is big, and I haven't checked, but I think it is supposed to be. Looking at a bit over .065" I think
-
Belts and hoses were fine, but I think I'll put on a new belt, idler and tensioner when I change out the radiator fluid and T-stat
I do not like those gaudy mud flaps so they went the way of the trash
-
Some rust, some dirt, but also evidence of recent work. I see someone had been working the UCA cams to set alignment
-
A new Wix oil filter and some fresh dino to get things rolling
-
The truck came with two sets of floor mats. I replaced the carpet ones for the aftermarket hard rubber even though they did not match.
-
I folded up the third seat for now, although my intention is to remove it altogether and slid the factory carpet forward and placed the aftermarket mat behind it
-
And this is one of the reasons I wanted to get back into a Suburban, the cavernous rear area. I'll have another foot with the removal of that third seat. If you can fold one of the second row seats forward, you can actually catch a catnap back there in a sleeping bag if the drive gets too long and you stumble across a rest stop with semis.
-
This three car + garage is pretty well filled with GM, HD sheet metal at the moment. The new wood fired boiler is keeping things very temperate in there.
-
Drop whatever you are doing and go check the fire..Don't let it get to low and have to start over
-
Is your spare under the rear on this thing? Think they did that and put a saddle tank in it.
-
Is your spare under the rear on this thing? Think they did that and put a saddle tank in it.
Yes it would be on this year truck. They stopped doing the spare in the cargo area in the late 90s I believe.
Garage looks better with the GM stuff rather than Mopar... ;)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Red plugs? Maybe farm fuel? :)
Fuel additives can cause a reddish tint, Seafoam in particular.
-
Is your spare under the rear on this thing? Think they did that and put a saddle tank in it.
JR,
It does have the spare under the back, something I will certainly change.
No knowledge as to if there is an aux tank there or not. From my reading I noted that the 8.1 burbs got the saddle/aux tank, but did the 6.0's also net one??? Dunno, off to discovery!
-
Is your spare under the rear on this thing? Think they did that and put a saddle tank in it.
Yes it would be on this year truck. They stopped doing the spare in the cargo area in the late 90s I believe.
Garage looks better with the GM stuff rather than Mopar... ;)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
;-))
I doubt you'll get very many standing in agreement though!
-
Red plugs? Maybe farm fuel? :)
Fuel additives can cause a reddish tint, Seafoam in particular.
Farm gas? Didn't know such a thing existed. I've heard of and used red diesel, off road stuff, but gasoline? Proof that one is never done with learnin'
Now I can believe seafoam was used as it commonly is
-
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/a2ec31ff5aca1daa70151c2e49b123cb.jpg)
Im fired
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
now that made me spit coffee all over the place laughing so hard!
-
Gentlemen, I think I have officially moved to a higher level of DOTing. Big D doesn’t fire me anymore you see & rarely responds to my comments. Then again maybe I’ve been fired permanently? I can’t recall getting a check lately and the benefits always were a little skimpy to start with so maybe I was just permanently fired. Or.... Hey Nate is there a way to block my comments? Maybe Dons blood pressure was getting to high and he just muted me? :tongue:
What’s next? I’ll try to access the site and it will say “you have been banned for eternity!”
:popcorn:
-
unfortunately there is not a way to mute specific users comments.....lol
-
Ban hammer!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Looking at the snickers like she is about to start a fluid change on something,,,,,,,,,,,,
-
unfortunately there is not a way to mute specific users comments.....lol
Oh but I wish there was!
-
I have used this stuff for decades as a chassis lube. Used it today on all the usual places. Now have to spend some time cleaning up the overspray
All door hinges checked out tight as was the rear hatch. The lift cylinders were a bit on the weak side so I picked up a new pair. Ouch, those are spendy!
-
Next up is bulb replacement
I like LEDs for more light output, daytime lighting colors, and reduced voltage pull
-
Everyone already knows, but the headlights in these trucks are so easy to pull. Just lift the two retaining rads and you can pull the assembly right out
-
Here is a poor side by side comparo between the halogens on the left and the LED's on the right, single bulb in each on.
-
One of you folks, Cruzin?? Repar?? suggested I do the four lights on mod, so I did. Its easy and will keep the lows on when the highs are switched on for double the light output. I confirmed that the critical wire was indeed the single yellow on the drivers side. I used a wire tap which I connected to a short piece of 14 gage with a ring terminal grounded to a body bolt
-
And just like that I have four much brighter lights on at the same time.
-
I am suspicious of that battery. I tested it to have only 11.5 volts after some use of stuff on the truck. I charged it several times. 12.4, 13.3, and finally 14.3 volts. I don't recall seeing one holding 14 volts, so we'll see how it performs
-
Next up is bulb replacement
I like LEDs for more light output, daytime lighting colors, and reduced voltage pull
I had a set of those Luyed backup bulbs in my F-150. Bees knees they were. What’s this high/low both on mod you’re doing? I had the fleece performance all light on module in my Duramax but it only worked when it felt like it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I want that mod too. I use a summit relay but it kills the driving lights on high beam.
And why those bulbs?
-
Next up is bulb replacement
I like LEDs for more light output, daytime lighting colors, and reduced voltage pull
I had a set of those Luyed backup bulbs in my F-150. Bees knees they were. What’s this high/low both on mod you’re doing? I had the fleece performance all light on module in my Duramax but it only worked when it felt like it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The Fleece all on chip thing is for 03 newer classic trucks, does not fit the 02 configuration
-
I want that mod too. I use a summit relay but it kills the driving lights on high beam.
And why those bulbs?
So easy JR, takes maybe 5 min
You can also jump the wiring to the DRL and Fogs to bring them on as well.
Me: Not sure what I am going to do with the DRL. Since GM cuts the voltage to drive them, I FIRST need to know that circuit will not diminish the voltage to the LEDs which would then be responsible for a shortened lifespan.
Generally, I just pull the DRL fuse and rock on
This one, I need to read a bit more.
JTM bulbs because I have loads of positive experience with them. They are a good compromise between the best (Costly) and the Econ bulbs and these put out lumens right up there with the best.
-
JDM? $70 a set is not bad if they are good.
Your burb has the same house as mine so if they work that's great!
-
JDM? $70 a set is not bad if they are good.
Your burb has the same house as mine so if they work that's great!
It should work, JR, although I do not know what affect the peripheral electronics you added may have.
-
Someone also mentioned BlackBear performance.
I was just shooting for one huge step, a turbo which would certainly answer any current or future power needs.
But, as is usually the case, I got to thinking about it. Do I need 600-700HP? I am thinking that probably not, as this is not a racing vehicle, and never will be. So what amount of power would I need in this "Practical" model we are looking at here?
I have read that the BlackBear LQ4 tune can add an astounding 63 HP! That is remarkable. If I were to open the exhaust (Long tubes) and the intake, I could possibly be looking at 400HP, which with respect to the considerable weight of a burb start to approach the bottom tier of acceptable performance.
Should I then in a second stage of modifications bolt in a cam and some good heads along with the proper transmission tuning, would I arrive at the desired performance level?
Going a third step of adding a blower would not make sense from a cost perspective, and If I planned initially to go that route, then I'd be better off just bolting on the turbo, tune it and drive .
So, I sent an email to Black Bear to get their read on the proposal. Lets see what they say...
-
Focus on torque improvement. HP usually equals high rpm and I hated my 2001 gasser because to make any power it was at 4100 rpm
4100 IIRC is the factory max torque RPM. A low overlap camshaft and a small centrifugal supercharger would be the ticket.
Think Grunt
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Now your thinking straight on the power needs. Tunes, exhaust/intake and gearing will get you what you need without big bucks and work.
-
You can also use a small 1001 diode and forward bias the headlight relays in the fuse box.
All on mod on the other forums will give you the details.
Literally a few seconds to do the mod if you just stick the diode in with the relay posts.
-
You can also use a small 1001 diode and forward bias the headlight relays in the fuse box.
All on mod on the other forums will give you the details.
Literally a few seconds to do the mod if you just stick the diode in with the relay posts.
Sounds like a plan.
-
I suggest scrapping the burb
Buy this
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/8a4729b8a528137e50f64d82b647ace3.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I want that, looks like I could even fit all the kids in there........or be able to effectively run away from them in comfort.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Think Grunt
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Like a Cummins? Hehe
-
Grunt, got it
Seems I spent half my life surrounded by em
Now I'm supposed to produce more?
Well, both pre-rangers want to be in the infantry, so is that good enough? I made two...
Serious note, first, nothing heard back from BlackBear yet
So I went around and stuck LED's in all the door entry illumination lights. They made a huge improvement
-
I suggest scrapping the burb
Buy this
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/8a4729b8a528137e50f64d82b647ace3.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TRN, couldn’t he just hire a full blown rebuild of the burb for the less than the cost of that thing? Definitely a hired duramax swap or two....
-
Then I went after the interior dome lights. It seems the center seat row lights were replaced with a DVD unit for bonehead entertainment, but there remains dual map lights.
Behind that in the cargo area was two domes which I changed over to LEDs
-
I suggest scrapping the burb
Buy this
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/8a4729b8a528137e50f64d82b647ace3.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TRN, couldn’t he just hire a full blown rebuild of the burb for the less than the cost of that thing? Definitely a hired duramax swap or two....
Sure could
And besides
I don't like the new stuff
I MUCH prefer the mostly simpler to work on and understand earlier stuff. I'll keep my cards and play em just as they are thank U very much!
-
Of course, I replaced the rear back up lights with LEds which increased the available illumination many times over stock.
Note how clean the inner body is. No hint of corrosion!
-
Next, I got after those worn out rear hatch struts. The new ones were spendy, but they did the trick
-
They are easily replaced by pulling out a retention clip and just pulling the strut off of the stud to which either end mounts.
-
I almost never used the third row seating, and I want to guarantee I don't end up with some baby or kids seats back there, so I ripped out the third row to make room for stuff
-
Lot of room in there now ^^^^^^^
Next up was the Glock mod. I pulled the lower panel and the dash surround trim, which does not really have to be pulled (I think) and went to work on my newest mount.
I'm staying with the familiar G19/G17/G23 platform I train with. This weapon is a gen 3, whereas my carry weapon and the one in the DMax are gen 4.
Also I decided to run with a right holster this time and mount it upright. It is not perfect to grab, but it mounts and tucks in much better than the cross mount I have used in the past.
I used #10 machine screws and thread-serts to hold things in place.
-
Note the upright attitude of the mount
-
The draw is still fast
Filmed at one million frames per second, here are four consecutive frames
Whew!
-
Did you corner the market on LEDs?
That glock needs night sights,,,,,,,,,,,
You going to add a drawer setup back there? Lots of secure storage and a long gun or 2.
So far I like the direction!
-
He keeps canting that rig and he’ll need some of these
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181130/73339a86d1fbb4f659e9454d746cf64e.png)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
He keeps canting that rig and he’ll need some of these
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181130/73339a86d1fbb4f659e9454d746cf64e.png)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:popcorn:
-
Brutal.. LOL This is my fav part. :shocked:
-
He keeps canting that rig and he’ll need some of these
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181130/73339a86d1fbb4f659e9454d746cf64e.png)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah, young grasshopper
You need to review strong arm shooting
Whatever angle is natural is the one you use
No extra time to "Right" the weapon and align it with the standard datum plane...
Rookies... ;-)))
-
Did you corner the market on LEDs?
That glock needs night sights,,,,,,,,,,,
You going to add a drawer setup back there? Lots of secure storage and a long gun or 2.
So far I like the direction!
JR,
Word of thanks and you are awarded a new nickname,
"Old Faithful!"
You see everytime I make an entry in one of my build threads, the "IBs" (incessant boneheads) pay no attention what so ever, except to look for some obscure angle to kidnap and use for their clever little (Puny, really small, insignificant, down right agravatin') comments.
But you, my friend, actually pay attention and offer some commentary about what actually took place, and not just some comment for the sake of squawkin'
Good for you! You are promoted to the next billet, whatever that is, and the rest of them remain on my "Bad boys and girls" Christmas list.
Note: A small increase in compensation accompanies this recognition!
-
Cool a raise, Merry Christmas to me!
HoMeboy sights? At least they are night sights, but how would a holster work?? That is point and shoot range anyway.
Off to load the rig for 2 nights in the snow. This is tent camping to boot.
-
My work as a (dot) artist is so under appreciated
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Only by some Charles, only by some :beercheers:
-
Work as a DOT artist...
And I thought cats and dogs sleepin' together was the craziest thing I ever saw
Now it has become a job title
We have slidden oh so far...
OK, so I've been driving the thing some. Finally registered it after crawling over it for a few days. I have to say, it is a bit more spunky than my Suburban of old which had the 5.3. This one gets right with the program. Not neck snappin' or anything, but it feels like it has that grunt everyone who is not an infantryman talks about.
So having driven a mile or two, I can concur that the thing might do well with the bolt on/tune thing. At least for awhile.
I think I'll start with the standards
Intake
LT headers
Free exhaust
Better plugs
Then that BlackBear tune
-
OK, so help the warrant select his headers
Going with Speed Engineering headers and Y-Pipe and a DynoMax 4" cat back. Actually, no cats, so technically, a flange back.
They have 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" headers, which ones should I be looking at?
Linky to the biggins:
https://www.speed-engineering.com/shop-by-vehicle/1999-13-lsx-trucks/exhaust/headers/speed-engineering-truck-suv-1-7-8-longtube-headers-y-pipe-1999-2006.html
Please keep in mind I will be upgrading to the L-92 heads and a good torque cam in the not too distant future.
So, obviously, the closer I stay to LQ4 architecture, the more the needle swings toward 1 3/4"
But start throwing in some deep breathing where I'm swing for the fence and 500-550 HP, the 1 7/8 would fit in better. Knowing me like I do, a blower would not be out of the question after a gold strike at the farm.
I'll also add the GM gaskets, good bolts, O2 sensor extensions, and mo-gooder spark plug wireses.
-
I’ll do my best to redeem myself.
I’d stick with the smaller diameter unless you are for sure going forced induction.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
My work as a (dot) artist is so under appreciated
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Join the club....
-
Don, before you build a dragster here’s some light reading for you.
Careful on the bigger is better train.
You can make big power on that motor but it come above 4000 rpm and that’s not a real drivable combination.
Note on this 550hp project they still use 1 3/4 headers and they lost 20+ lbs of torque down low, and that was probably already down from stock since they changed the cam before the heads.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0705-chevrolet-ls2-l92-cylinder-heads/
For reference
https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4809/~/chevy-lq4-engine-specs
Discussion on torque. I’d still recommend a tighter rv/towing cam that lends itself to a super charger later as an upgrade to your set up.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/lq4-2500hd-towing-cam-509771/page2/
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Charles, what are you doing? Bigger is always better, more HP always is best response. Your messing up the whole plan to get us replacement thread for square d. We need a super charger swap, SAS, a sleeping corders and a gun turret. No one wants to see that wimpy stuff.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Charles, what are you doing? Bigger is always better, more HP always is best response. Your messing up the whole plan to get us replacement thread for square d. We need a super charger swap, SAS, a sleeping corders and a gun turret. No one wants to see that wimpy stuff.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m kinda the opposite, he should keep it closer to stock and drive it. Let’s face it the last build didn’t get completed because his priorities changed, boys got older and he has this farm. Now he added wood heat which will consume more time than he may realize. Keep the thing closer to stock and use and abuse it. He doesn’t need another toy he still has cmax & sq d (which will need parted out at some point too btw) more man hours.
-
The LQ4 was a bit of a dog with 8-9K behind it. I do endorse tuning and RV/tow cam and maybe a little port work on the heads along with freeing up the intake and exhaust.
Will improve mileage and give it some more go while maintaining drivability
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Was looking at this cam:
www.vincicams.com
DUR @ .050" 210*/218*
LIFT .552 / .552
LSA 114*
4A "BUTT KICKER"
POWER RANGE 1600 TO 6000
PROVIDES HIGH TORQUE & HP GAINS WITHOUT LOW END LOSSES
GOOD THROTTLE RESPONSE
5.3L - 6.0L
PERFECT FOR THAT "DRIVE-IN" SOUND
GREAT CHOP TO THE IDLE
Torque cam used by 2500 HD drivers for towing boats and heavy loads. Loads of good reports
Headers/exhaust/Intake ordered
-
I like it. Still got good LSA that would lend itself to some FI later.
Makes me want to mod my LT1 in the Denali.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
So, as I continue to evolve the possible direction of this build, you folks had it right from the beginning.
That is, do some additions to the stocker and drive it. I intepret that as: build a NA motor bit by bit while its fun, I can afford it in terms of money and time, and did I mention, as long as its fun.
I always look to create something unique, so in all honesty I doubt I would hold at the tune and cam line.
So Now that I have renewed my store of knowledge on these LS motors, I will start adding parts to the stocker. Along with the parts I mentioned, inexpensive beehive springs, fresh seals, and moly pushrods to bullet proof the valvetrain for the next 100K+ and maybe a throttle body and some intake porting, dunno.
But in addition to that, I have taken note of the relative low cost of stroker kits.
I may just decide to do a parallel engine build of a replacement motor while driving my tweaked one. more cubes always makes sense and it looks like the 408 cu in kits are low cost and a 427 may not be a stretch either. Going to a more exotic 454, well, I don't know since building a high torque 500+ HP 408 is almost hard not to do. The 408 would make more than the peak torque of the stock 6.8 at like 2200 rpm, and that's straight up pulling power.
So lets see how the improvements evolve this truck while the thing gets other improvements as well. Off to the races!
-
if you are talking about building a swappable motor while you drive it, don't you have a high dollar built cummins just sitting there? was that cummins not built for pure power, or am I missing something completely here?
by no means am I trying to throw you off your intended course, just a question that was going thru my grey matter.
-
if you are talking about building a swappable motor while you drive it, don't you have a high dollar built cummins just sitting there? was that cummins not built for pure power, or am I missing something completely here?
by no means am I trying to throw you off your intended course, just a question that was going thru my grey matter.
Boss, needs to suck it up and just finish SQ D & add it to the fleet. Why don’t you go pick that up Nate and drag it back to Norm? :popcorn: I heard thru grapevein he was still willing to get it running.. :tongue:
-
if you are talking about building a swappable motor while you drive it, don't you have a high dollar built cummins just sitting there? was that cummins not built for pure power, or am I missing something completely here?
by no means am I trying to throw you off your intended course, just a question that was going thru my grey matter.
Boss, needs to suck it up and just finish SQ D & add it to the fleet. Why don’t you go pick that up Bate and drag it back to Norm? :popcorn: I heard thru grapevein he was still willing to get it running.. :tongue:
Nate could probably go get it and Chief not know it’s gone!!! Since it has moved to a new shop it could move to another without anybody really knowing... the whole out of site out of mind thing....
-
Can one of the mods open up a donation or a go fund me to pay for transportation?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I would highly recommend talking to the tuners first, before buying any parts. They've got those chevys figured out and can steer you to the right combo. I'm guessing headers probably aren't needed, nor a cam, but I could be wrong.
-
I would highly recommend talking to the tuners first, before buying any parts. They've got those chevys figured out and can steer you to the right combo. I'm guessing headers probably aren't needed, nor a cam, but I could be wrong.
Ken,
Headers are def a power adder, and most threads call the LT a solid 25 RWHP.
The cam as installed from chevy is as close to junk as they can build. From what I remember building these motors (Yes I built a couple LS motors in my past) the cam in these is where all the power is up to the limit of the port configuration. There is a hundred horsepower, easily in a cam in the sickly cammed LQ4. These motors, Cam/tune/LT are 450 HP motors and with better mileage.
I am looking at combos, but as per your suggestion, I started with an email to BlackBear. No response so far, so tomorrow, I plan to chat with the cam guy and get his take on the right combo.
-
Can one of the mods open up a donation or a go fund me to pay for transportation?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Love ya man, but under no circumstances will anyone spend a single dime on anything for me. Not that anyone would actually do it, but its not the way I roll. I'll accept donations for our Christmas giveaways or for the aid to folks in need, but not for me. God has blessed me abundantly so I'm good.
As for SquareD, I mentioned an issue with it that is hard to solve that is not mechanical in nature. As for unbolting all that stuff and sorting the converter/flywheel, it's just work. I do not however want to get into that now (Ever??) The other thing is that in the end it is a straight up two person truck, something I have never been comfortable with, but was willing to roll with along with the concept of it pulling a tactical trailer. If it goes on, it will be with that notion. For now, I'm not sure...
-
if you are talking about building a swappable motor while you drive it, don't you have a high dollar built cummins just sitting there? was that cummins not built for pure power, or am I missing something completely here?
by no means am I trying to throw you off your intended course, just a question that was going thru my grey matter.
Ya, Nate, I just want to stay gasser and LS with this burb. It would be converted to a Duramax if I went diesel. But the LS motor is cool and it gives me options...gas or diesel to DD. That Cummins motor is one pretty powerful and very heavy power plant. It should make 1200-1300 ft/lbs and that would be a bunch for that burb. A healthy gasser belting out 450-500 ft/lbs but using 350 at driving speed would be plenty good enough and sporty to make for a satisfying ride. So I'll keep this one a bit more sane than some of the things I have concocted in the past.
-
Agreeing with most here Don. Add on's will get you going more to your needs. Yes the 6.0 heads are often swapped for 5.3 as they flow better. Heck the 5.3 can do almost 400hp with mild tuning and exhaust.
Another thing is LS exhaust manifolds flow very well. Headers are cool but for your needs and longevity stay with cast. Hooker makes a nice set of coated cat that better than stock.
Do the exhaust, a new cat and throttle body (you have a manual throttle, right?). Headers will get that 25hp, but at 5000 rpm! Have it tuned, add a shift kit and tune the trans so it doesn't defuel as bad and shift.
If you build a motor, look for a 6.2 vs the 6.0. They were rated for around 350 stock and have bushed piston pins. May as well get aftermarket heads if you go that far.
I think 450+hp with good low end torque should be very easy. Plus it is with little to no down time. Even the rear OK for what you want unless you tow something crazy.
-
Agreeing with most here Don. Add on's will get you going more to your needs. Yes the 6.0 heads are often swapped for 5.3 as they flow better. Heck the 5.3 can do almost 400hp with mild tuning and exhaust.
Another thing is LS exhaust manifolds flow very well. Headers are cool but for your needs and longevity stay with cast. Hooker makes a nice set of coated cat that better than stock.
Do the exhaust, a new cat and throttle body (you have a manual throttle, right?). Headers will get that 25hp, but at 5000 rpm! Have it tuned, add a shift kit and tune the trans so it doesn't defuel as bad and shift.
If you build a motor, look for a 6.2 vs the 6.0. They were rated for around 350 stock and have bushed piston pins. May as well get aftermarket heads if you go that far.
I think 450+hp with good low end torque should be very easy. Plus it is with little to no down time. Even the rear OK for what you want unless you tow something crazy.
Well, I already ordered the 1 3/4" LTs and big ole' exhaust. I have an inbound tracking numbs on it. I will chat it up with the cam guy tomorrow, and may close on the rumble stick while on the phone. I like the Trail blazer/SS 6.0 intake along with a 90mm TB with now thinking I stay with cathedral post heads like those 5.3L castings you mentioned, although ported. 300CFM from those heads is sick.
As for cubic inches. I'd have to factor in cost effectiveness. So my 6.0 is good for another 100K+ so no point in getting another LQ4 and building it to swap. a 6.2 I just found is retailing for $1800 with 96K. So a 408 stroker kit is less than $2500 which is a difference of a few hundred for 44 cu/in more. So I buy another 6.0 and build it the way I want. Torque monster 408, then one weekend, swap it in place of the 6.0. My LQ4 sells for what I spent on the 6.0 core so that's a wash. It is a sub $4K for a very reliable 500HP+, nearly 500 ft lbs motor. That is what makes the most sense to me at the moment. I'll sort out the other stuff like manifold and throttle body and base tunes along with transmission stuff now so that the eventual swap will be much more forgiving.
-
Can I ask a dumb question? I can't seem to see it mentioned so maybe it is obvious. What transmission is in it? :facepalm:
-
Can I ask a dumb question? I can't seem to see it mentioned so maybe it is obvious. What transmission is in it? :facepalm:
I’ve been wondering the same thing. On my 2001 Silverado I could adjust pressure and shift points with a basic tuner but I’m curious if it will hold the type of power Chief is after.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Can I ask a dumb question? I can't seem to see it mentioned so maybe it is obvious. What transmission is in it? :facepalm:
4L80
-
Can I ask a dumb question? I can't seem to see it mentioned so maybe it is obvious. What transmission is in it? :facepalm:
I’ve been wondering the same thing. On my 2001 Silverado I could adjust pressure and shift points with a basic tuner but I’m curious if it will hold the type of power Chief is after.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'll address the transmission a little later. I think I'll concentrate on getting it shifting properly, and shift points at the right place for the cam/heads, then go inside and add a couple more clutches and the proper converter. The GM 4L85 which is my trans with two extra clutches holds 680 ft lbs
-
Starting to tighten up the shot group on this motor thing
Not there but so far:
Spec'd cam
Tomphson performance ported GM 243 heads
Stock size valves
.030 head gaskets
Long tubes
Open exhaust
90mm TB
Silverado SS intake
36 or 42 pph injectors
2800 ish stall converter
then a bit later on:
408 short block (6.7 L)
More cam to equal the same port velocities as the torque cam on the 6.0
That will start me off in the 450-480 RWHP range/450 tq and down low
Then raise that bar to 550 HP/ 500-525 tq at the wheels.
That should move that burb very nicely and with the 2800 launch it pdq while maintaining a tow happy rig.
-
I’ll just leave this here
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19331576.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I’ll just leave this here
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19331576.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah man, I can't do that
A huge departure from stock and the LS can make all that power easily without the added weight and fuss
Would look cool though!
-
Why not just a GM longblock if going that far? Has about all you are doing, just swap the intakes.
-
I’ll just leave this here
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19331576.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah man, I can't do that
A huge departure from stock and the LS can make all that power easily without the added weight and fuss
Would look cool though!
Since when has that ever slowed You Down? Plus, more mass to take cover behind....
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
:popcorn:
-
Why not just a GM longblock if going that far? Has about all you are doing, just swap the intakes.
Well, does GM offer a 408 long block?
The other point is I'd want to build it myself and select the parts I want.
Right now, I think you can only get a 6.2 and a 427, LS7 but that is over 10K
I can do this well under 3K including the new cam!
-
Hey Chief- I was under the impression that Norm might have the work around for your Square D issue in stock/barn/field/neighborhood? Have you checked that route yet? Solves both issues if you drop the challenge on him! :beercheers:
-
Hey Chief- I was under the impression that Norm might have the work around for your Square D issue in stock/barn/field/neighborhood? Have you checked that route yet? Solves both issues if you drop the challenge on him! :beercheers:
No comment
-
So today I removed an easy 100 pounds of ugly weight
Yea liking that much better
-
Then I made a mess of my driveway accidentally spilling all the old Dexi-Cool out of both the radiator and block
-
Popping off the front Oregon plate revealed some stains, nothing more. But look right below the bumper
There's a tow hitch there! How flippin cool is that!
-
Then I went to work on the running boards. Low hanging fruit which some chunk of limestone on my property is just waiting to engage.
They are gone now. Probably a good 30-35 lbs for the both of them so all in all, I reduced weight of my Burb by nearly 150 lbs today
-
Much cleaner appearance
-
Then I replaced the old looking tail light lenses with new ones
-
Added some windshield washer fluid and changed the wiper blades
-
The top of the console is hard plastic and anything you place there slides away on the first turn. So, using tool box drawer liner, I cut out some sections
-
And caught another small area
And that was that for today. Tomorrow it starts to get a bit more serious. I have parts showing up, performance parts which I should begin installation of shortly after getting them
-
Here I thought you’d keep the yuppie ski carrier & running boards...
-
You just got 10 years younger looking by that “old man” stuff off the burb
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Here I thought you’d keep the yuppie ski carrier & running boards...
I could turn the rooftop carrier into a boat for the pond, loan it to the local hippies after I get my camera set up
-
And...
Got a response from Justin at BlackBear Performance.
I'll get the conversation going and get some tuning happening
-
I would love that style of running boards on my duramax. To bad they don’t work
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Is that the new guy you are using from Canada?
-
Is that the new guy you are using from Canada?
I'm pretty sure BlackBear has been around for years. They are just in the gasser world though. Unless there is another company with a similar name that I am thinking of?
-
You're right Bear. Just gassers. JR is thinking of Motorops, I think.
-
I think this needs a V12 LS swap.....
https://youtu.be/P7ZkRuuU30E
-
Is that the new guy you are using from Canada?
No,
Justin of Black Bear Performance. Pretty well known and regarded in the gasser world as was mentioned. I have heard of his tuning talent for many years now
http://store.blackbearperformance.com/
-
I like this V12 idea, simple power increase. I wonder what actual cost would be
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I think this needs a V12 LS swap.....
https://youtu.be/P7ZkRuuU30E
That is amazing!
-
I don't know, saw this guy in person at SEMA 2015 and think you've got more room than he did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxtHaceb6kw
twin 427LS '69 Camaro
-
Don I’m sure you could get $200-300 for those running boards. As I recall from our ‘02 burb back in the day they were like a $600-700 dealer option installed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Nice Burb Don..... Very urban of you =)
Bummer on parting out Square D....
-
Don I’m sure you could get $200-300 for those running boards. As I recall from our ‘02 burb back in the day they were like a $600-700 dealer option installed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I gave them to the saw!
-
Nice Burb Don..... Very urban of you =)
Bummer on parting out Square D....
Yea, Norm, not completely sure about the course SquareD has yet to sail.
-
Well, the headers, the DynoMax exhaust, the intake, and some other stuff just showed up
Right in the middle of a nice Gout attack I am currently enjoying!
-
I’ve got the same engine in my 2004 Express if you want to send them down. I’ll try them out for you and see what they are like. :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I’ve got the same engine in my 2004 Express if you want to send them down. I’ll try them out for you and see what they are like. :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
;-)
-
Some teaser shots
-
This is the last point where the truck will be stock. First up is the intake air piping. So out with the stock stuff
-
I think I've seen that stock air tube in the movie "Aliens."
OK, all gone, and ready to install new stuff
-
I started to install the new air box, then after looking at the assembly technique using screws and nuts, I decided to modify the piece with nutserts
-
I cleaned and spray painted the inside of the intake tube which is thin wall steel
-
The box fits quite well
-
I'm leaving the MAF stock with the screens installed for now. I'll get the first data logging after the headers for a tune with this thing as is
-
The air filter and base unit seem to be will built
-
The air filter/MAF assembly.
This kit uses rubber in lieu of the more popular silicone couplers. But this kit was $69.95 whereas a K&N will set you back four bills or more, and for what exactly?
-
Refreshing as you post!!
-
The box contained some pinch fit weather stripping used to seal the box to the hood. Frankly, I don't know why as there are voids along the sides
-
And just like that, I had a new intake!
-
I threw on my typical decals on the back, units I served in, in combat.
Check out how the dark Chinook silhouette hids in the tinted glass well
-
The headers will be fun, super tight in there.
So intake and wires today?
-
So after the start and some idling and throttle "blipping" all seems normal
BTW, I have noted that this truck has little of what I'd call power. It motors along but floor it and it rewards you with, really, nothing
So this intake alone will make no difference. I am only improving the highway and bridges in anticipation of upcoming heavier traffic.
We won't make any more power, I think until after headers and a tune. I should see a good 50-60 HP increase once Justin optimizes the tune.
The real power will come next with a new cam, ported 243 heads and an SS intake manifold. I should be looking at close to 550 at the crank and putting down close to 500 to the ground (Guessing 480).
That will be substantial and should be a good point to hold while I source a block for the 408" stroker kit.
-
The headers will be fun, super tight in there.
So intake and wires today?
Wires and plugs, maybe, tomorrow
I have installed headers twice before on these trucks. I thought it was easy, but I did a 2008 and a 2010, both 6.2's
I'm sure it will not be easy, but sa live'
-
The extra power will be nice. Mine never impressed me at all.
-
Can you say why you painted the inside of the intake tube?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Can you say why you painted the inside of the intake tube?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lead based paint, so when it flakes off it will lubricate the injectors.... :tongue:
-
I was hoping for Teflon paint so the air doesn’t stick?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Can you say why you painted the inside of the intake tube?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lead based paint, so when it flakes off it will lubricate the injectors.... :tongue:
Doesn't TSC have paint made for just that?
-
Idk, they have graphite paint for the inside of corn hopper wagons. Works good on leaf springs I might add....
:facepalm:
-
I was hoping for Teflon paint so the air doesnt stick?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
that's actually a pretty funny comment!
-
Paint on the intake will help the tube not rust when the open air cleaner lets water in during T storms. :grin:
-
Can you say why you painted the inside of the intake tube?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sure: Anti corrosion barrier (Rust)
-
List of people who just got banned:
Norm
Shawn
Anyone named Dave
Nate (Well, maybe Nate, I mean if I ban him, who's gonna work on the site fixin' stuff)
Any other no-good who doesn't make gud comments bout Don's work!
-
Can't even make the fun list anymore,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Just don't get the high end coils. Always heard they don't do a thing.
-
Can't even make the fun list anymore,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Just don't get the high end coils. Always heard they don't do a thing.
Fun list?
No, that's "The wall of shame"
You're one of the very few goodins
Those other people are not good role models at all
Shameful really ;-))
Ya, stock coils are fine, thanks, and I knew that
I have some LS experience. Built a 11 sec Camaro SS I owned
And I did the Hummer H2, a Caddy 6.2 and a Denali 6.2 too.
This one will be leaps and bounds ahead of those builds (Except for the Camaro) I have long been impressed with the potential in this little GM motor that could.
-
Can't even make the fun list anymore,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Just don't get the high end coils. Always heard they don't do a thing.
Suck up
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Suck up
Jealous? I'm not "that" good, I just pic my battles,,,,,,,,
-
Suck up ain't the same as jealous JR.
..crap I just sided with a trouble maker.
:(
Never mind..guessing you called Dave jealous. Lol
-
Go play with your new toy!
-
Ken gets a new toy and gets all abrasive with everyone while trying to make a point! Don't be so edgy Ken, sharpen that keen rapier whit of yours and go cut-up on someone else!
(Can't believe I crammed all that into two sentences!)
-
The hostility on this place, can you believe it?
;-))
-
Great burn Mike. That's all I have.
-
:beercheers:
-
Great burn Mike. That's all I have.
You actually work, I just hone that punnyness on SA teenagers over the last 33 years!
-
Great burn Mike. That's all I have.
You actually work, I just hone that punnyness on SA teenagers over the last 33 years!
It shows!
-
Don's 64th build/gossip thread...
So as I got busy starting on the headers and exhaust, I got tangled up with the spare and spent some time wranglin' through all of that. Anyway, in true "Don" fashion I'll get a bit more involved in the project with a divergence or two. You see pulling on stuff, old stuff, I got some Oregon dirt in my Mark-1 eyeballs and decided right then and there, that this truck gets a good pressure washing before all that purdy new stuff goes on.
Pressure washin' begat some weather proofin' and paintin' n' such, so I think I saw some of the exhaust system off to get more access to what lies beneath and get that done in the morrow
-
So now we know for sure, 14 bolt semi floater :cry:
Yea, I know its OK, but I really wanted a FF hangin out back there
-
All the stock stuff is still there. Spare looks period correct and the spare tire tools which will not be replaced or reused were complete in Chevy packaging. I think I'll sell that stuff off, unless someone on here actually needs it, then its shipping only.
-
Things got dicey when I tried my best to lower the spare tire the normal way. Something wasn't meshing and I never got the tire winch to move! I ended up cutting the tire retainer off and just dropped the tire
-
Next up, the spare tire which will move to the back bumper shortly is supported by a heavy cross member and a backing plate. I always pull that junk and save the weight. I think all in total I'm somewhere between 75-100 lbs removed today. That total is getting up there, and will grow as I replace that massively huge stock exhaust system and replace with the lightweight stainless stuff.
And here it is, all gone!
-
And
We see this truck has the dual tank thing going on
Good sized sucker, what close to 10 gallons??
-
Wait, that thing has dual tanks? I don't believe I've had one of those in the shop, in that body style.
-
That tank will likely stay, although I could fab a tank that got a bunch deeper if I took a notion to do so, we'll see.
Look at all the junk liberated from my truck. That stuff will NOT be going back on
-
Wait, that thing has dual tanks? I don't believe I've had one of those in the shop, in that body style.
BK (Brother Ken), you see it. Pretty sure it's not a DEF tank or smugglers device, so my monnee sez its a gas tank!
-
Next up, these are history...CYA
-
That's all I got through today
I would have had the exhaust off, but monkeying with that spare tire took a bunch of time up. Stay tuned...
-
Oh and BTW, that air intake made no difference at all save a bit more noise (Of the good kind) and it looks performance oriented.
But
When a cammed six liter starts gulping loads of air, in that engine bay, it will weigh in substantially
-
Things got dicey when I tried my best to lower the spare tire the normal way. Something wasn't meshing and I never got the tire winch to move! I ended up cutting the tire retainer off and just dropped the tire
They never function properly on those GM’s, I believe there is an official GM bulletin that in fact states you have to cut the retainer to use the spare. It’s really handy when your tire blows crossing the Ohio river on I75 north bound into Cinci, not that I have any experience with that... :popcorn:
-
Things got dicey when I tried my best to lower the spare tire the normal way. Something wasn't meshing and I never got the tire winch to move! I ended up cutting the tire retainer off and just dropped the tire
They never function properly on those GM’s, I believe there is an official GM bulletin that in fact states you have to cut the retainer to use the spare. It’s really handy when your tire blows crossing the Ohio river on I75 north bound into Cinci, not that I have any experience with that... :popcorn:
Oh No!
-
I have had to cut two off of the trucks in the past, the current spare tires doesn’t fit there anyway so it’s be all removed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Things got dicey when I tried my best to lower the spare tire the normal way. Something wasn't meshing and I never got the tire winch to move! I ended up cutting the tire retainer off and just dropped the tire
They never function properly on those GM’s, I believe there is an official GM bulletin that in fact states you have to cut the retainer to use the spare. It’s really handy when your tire blows crossing the Ohio river on I75 north bound into Cinci, not that I have any experience with that... :popcorn:
That’s not a good place to blow a tire anytime. The fact there is no where to pull over anywhere close is bad enough, the other irate idiot drivers make it even more dangerous.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Things got dicey when I tried my best to lower the spare tire the normal way. Something wasn't meshing and I never got the tire winch to move! I ended up cutting the tire retainer off and just dropped the tire
They never function properly on those GM’s, I believe there is an official GM bulletin that in fact states you have to cut the retainer to use the spare. It’s really handy when your tire blows crossing the Ohio river on I75 north bound into Cinci, not that I have any experience with that... :popcorn:
That’s not a good place to blow a tire anytime. The fact there is no where to pull over anywhere close is bad enough, the other irate idiot drivers make it even more dangerous.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Copy, fun times as they were
-
That's all I got through today
I would have had the exhaust off, but monkeying with that spare tire took a bunch of time up. Stay tuned...
So you’re saying your spare tire was getting in your way? Sounds like time for a new exercise program. :)
Let me know if you need someone to throw headers at, or someone to take pictures as you’re dropping exhaust parts on your head.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
That's all I got through today
I would have had the exhaust off, but monkeying with that spare tire took a bunch of time up. Stay tuned...
So you’re saying your spare tire was getting in your way? Sounds like time for a new exercise program. :)
Let me know if you need someone to throw headers at, or someone to take pictures as you’re dropping exhaust parts on your head.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You aren't gettin' my headers!
-
Guess I should check my spare operation. Got a 35 to hang there but would like it to come down when asked.
-
Guess I should check my spare operation. Got a 35 to hang there but would like it to come down when asked.
How’d you manage to get a 35 under there? I didn’t think anything bigger than a 285 would fit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I had my bfg there but couldn’t get the nitto. To wide and rubbed on my differential
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Things got dicey when I tried my best to lower the spare tire the normal way. Something wasn't meshing and I never got the tire winch to move! I ended up cutting the tire retainer off and just dropped the tire
They never function properly on those GM’s, I believe there is an official GM bulletin that in fact states you have to cut the retainer to use the spare. It’s really handy when your tire blows crossing the Ohio river on I75 north bound into Cinci, not that I have any experience with that... :popcorn:
The plastic gear teeth in the winch assembly bring the tire up, but most people get them caught on the receiver or the backside of the bumper, and crank and crank until there's some nice flat spots once they get it all the way up. they're not very waterproof, either, so couple corrosion with a flywheel missing some teeth and she'll go up but not back down, not without a fat guy hanging off the spare. like Shawn, pulled that move in the snow at night on US2.
-
How do you get a flat in the snow Tate?
-
Got some more done, but have domestic stuff to do before posting.
Question: Before and after the cats about transfer case longitude there are a couple of O2 sensors. The new exhaust has no where to mount them, so what do I do?
I'm thinking there is an O2 sensor "Fooler" plugin that attaches to the wiring harness and keeps the computer happy. Am I correct?
-
Hope you are not going too radical on the cat back system. I did and man was it loud inside the cab.
-
Sometimes the front 02s are not heated and the rears are.
Tuning could fix all that, but 02s are good for closed loop running.
-
Hope you are not going too radical on the cat back system. I did and man was it loud inside the cab.
Bob, I purchased a dynomax
Primary reason was cost. With respect to this build, everything is going to be inexpensive, sourced used, done myself and so forth to see just what one of these old burbs can be made into with a low expenditure. The Dynomax was hundreds less than comparable systems.
Now it has a straight through 4" muffla' so that does not speak to quiet running. But I have a trick or two up my sleeve. Remember that discarded MBRP 4" muffler off C-Max??? Well, it wouldn't be unusual for me to run two mufflers, in line to tone down the noise. I do not like loud exhausts.
-
Sometimes the front 02s are not heated and the rears are.
Tuning could fix all that, but 02s are good for closed loop running.
They are heated, they are 4-wire sensors
-
So today with the help of a new recip saw I picked up at HF, I cut off the factory monstrosity of an exhaust. THis is going to be another big weight savings.
Starting here aft of a really big muffler
-
Just look at all of this stuff!
-
My hand serves as a point to compare the huge volume of that muffler. It almost looks like it just stores up the exhaust, never expelling it!
-
It's way too heavy, too complicated, just space hoggin, performance killin unnecessary hippie junk!
-
And the new system side by side.
The new system is not a bolt on. I'll have to cut it at the point where the two 3" pipes blend into the 4" diameter of the massive muffler connection. I have done this before, twice. Not a big deal really, just work
-
Muffler size...See any differences?
That dynomax muffler is really light weight, heck everything is. It's only a couple of pounds, not 40+ like the stocker.
-
I make the factory tailpipe to be either 2 3/4" or 3"
The Dynomax is 4" ID
-
And there's some silly looking 5" stainless exhaust tip thing
Coffee can exhaust. I can Craigs list that sucker to the jap car crowd for some pretty good $$$ I bet
-
All kinds of space is opening up under the Burb!
-
Leaky front seal!
I know how to fix that.
Remove the drive shaft, then pinion nut.
Pull the yoke and ring and pinion, install a grizzly locker, then rap in a new seal and reinstall everything.
-
So with frozen ground outside, I did what came naturally.
Fire up the pressure washer and get coated with grease, grit and cold water
Took maybe an hour, but I think I have the underside spic n span and ready for the undercoating and cavity sealer I have planned for the morrow
-
Pretty sure they can tune those rear ones out Don. I would ask before buying the foolers.
-
Can you just do an early out exhaust like you did on cmax, stick it out just under the rear tire?
What are the plans for gearing on the front?
Did you ever decide on lift?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I have setup for the 9.5 front and 4.56 if you go that deep.
:popcorn:
-
Can you just do an early out exhaust like you did on cmax, stick it out just under the rear tire?
What are the plans for gearing on the front?
Did you ever decide on lift?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would like to do that, but I also think it would be noisy
The turbo does things to quiet the diesel, would on a gasser as well. But in this arrangement I have here, the exhaust which used to be very sound controlled will be a open pipe port to tailpipe. With that in mind it might be wise to get a couple more feet and some more sound deadening between me and the exhaust note
Lift, I've been looking at the 3" to 4" and I don't like any of that. Everytime I see a burb lifted 6" or more, it starts to look right. So no decisions yet
Gearing? To remain the stock 4.10
Driving down the highway with the 30" tall tires it tacks at like 2350ish RPM
The cam I am going to buy comes on at 2100 with like 80% of peak torque, so the 33" tire should cut the RPM to around 2100. The overall effect is that the truck will want to cruise around 75 to 80 is my guess. If I had to regear, I'd go to 4.88 and run a 35" tire.
This motor is going to make over 500 ft lbs, so it may not have a big problem moving along. I'll just have to see how it shakes out
-
I have setup for the 9.5 front and 4.56 if you go that deep.
:popcorn:
Ya know, I may be a player on that JR
Already set up in the diff, or new in the box?
-
All still in package.
-
How do you get a flat in the snow Tate?
All bolts matter JR.
-
I think I just found a good set of 243 heads.
These are the best of the cathedral port heads which are great for torque production. Also used on the LS6 motor of old. These can push upwards of 300 CFM and are the basis for +500 HP builds.
Here we go!
-
Have been busy and not on the site for awhile. The Suburban is looking awesome and is going to be so cool when it is done. Great job so far!!! I keep looking for another one to sell but no luck. So hard to find.
Keep it up!!!
-
The undercarriage cleaned up well enough
Note the ink stamp on the underside of the leaf spring!
-
No surprises, it all looks pretty good
-
I'm trying this Chassis paint from HF. Inexpensive enough and I've been noticing an improvement in product from there. Heck everything else is made in China, the difference being the other stuff is marketed by American companies and marked up
-
And sure enough, it did a decent job. Heck the undercarriage will likely get muddy like the truck, so who cares really!
-
The frame and some crossmembers were sprayed with undercoating after some cleaning
-
I pulled the front wheels for the header install. I planned to go in through the wheel well. It turned out that by doing so the dreaded manifold removal was a non event
-
The previous owner must have installed this front bumper hitch, perhaps to move a boat trailer around?
Anyway, it's added weight that I don't need, so off it came
-
Pop off a few plastic retainers and voila'
easy access to the side of the engine
-
You could have used that mount for a winch receiver....
-
Have you alresdy sourced the transfer case pump rub kit from merchant auto yet?
-
Have you alresdy sourced the transfer case pump rub kit from merchant auto yet?
Is mine one of the suspect trucks??
-
Everything I read told me to just pull the heat shield, so I did. It, will go back in when the headers are installed
-
Next this EGR thing was yanked off. It left a gaping hole in the intake which I will need to address, but you can bet that thing was killing some performance!
-
Then just like that, the right manifold was unbolted and fell right out!
-
What model of x-case do you have?
-
The quality of these pipes is pretty good. The welds were nice, the inside of the ports showed signs of smoothing with a sander, and the collector was fitted with a spike to blend the flow from adjacent tubes. Not bad for stainless pipes under $400!
-
What model of x-case do you have?
dunno Nate
Has the auto 4WD feature, 2H, Neutral, 4H, and 4L
-
What is the year range of the suspect transfers?
Ya know, when I was under there, I was thinking the transfer case looked pretty new. I noted the fasteners were shiny and the aluminum wasn't showing the age of other aluminum components nearby. I wonder if its already been replaced?
Another thing, I found copper anti-seize on the manifold bolts and copper gasket sealer on the exhaust manifold gasket. Finally, the gasket was a composition type. I thought GM used the layered steel gaskets.
-
Here's the aero spike in the collector:
-
I took care to mark the gaskets for proper installation
-
I had to trim off a part of the old exhaust system support hanger system, but when I did the header fell right into place. You can drop it in from the top or slide it in from below, easily
-
Bolting these pipes in was almost a non event...so far...
-
I installed new spark plugs and wires, then the dipstick tube for the win!
-
Anyone know if it would be of some benefit to try to fit the stock spark plug boot heat shields onto my aftermarket wires?
-
Why not buy some aftermarket spark plug boots from jegs etc?
-
Why not buy some aftermarket spark plug boots from jegs etc?
$$$$$$
-
??? Really? $50 bucks? You can put them on and forget about em
-
I may get fired for not mentioning this earlier, but I'll risk it. I would have heat wrapped the headers to keep the heat down. Maybe when you swap the heads.
-
Yeah Chief, your transfer case makes the list. They also have an option to add a magnetic drain plug.
(https://i.imgur.com/f6GOhyj.png)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I would do the plug boots too. Headers do like to burn wires!
How do the motor mounts look? 16 years old, that rubber may not be happy and now would be a good time with the access.
Heck, still haven't done my case. JB is holding up but I need a new rear and the front yoke kit.
-
Been a long time since I had to wok on anything with plug wires. Memories.....
-
I second the motion for the heat shields on the plug wires, the heat wrap on the headers might not be a terrible idea either. If you wrap them with heat wrap it will hide that unsightly shine of those headers too
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
You could have used that mount for a winch receiver....
probably what it was there for so they didn't have to cut into or replace the bumper
-
I may get fired for not mentioning this earlier, but I'll risk it. I would have heat wrapped the headers to keep the heat down. Maybe when you swap the heads.
It's cold outside, I like heat
Remember you earned a get out of bein' fired card. I'll only fire you when I know I can ban you right afterward. That takes a bit more of a grievance.
-
Hmmm, not a good mornin'
Dogs ran off, had to run em down
Got em back but then this
Plug wire booties
Transfer case is all ganked up and ready to crack in half
need to put a diaper on the headers
and some Dave doesn't like the shine
-
Maybe there's a quake coming Don?
Going contact the seller on that case? Should be something you can do with a long distance buy and a checkout before hand.
-
What model of x-case do you have?
dunno Nate
Has the auto 4WD feature, 2H, Neutral, 4H, and 4L
NP246G. I have case saver kits, but you should only NEED it if the rear case half is magnesium. if it's aluminum you're gtg
-
Tate, can you get the yoke kit for the 263hd for the dmax?
-
Maybe there's a quake coming Don?
Going contact the seller on that case? Should be something you can do with a long distance buy and a checkout before hand.
Longshot JR
I bought it from Rob in Michigan who business is hunting the world over for finds like this, then reselling. He found this one in Oregon. But good idea, I'll reach out to him.
-
JR, thanks again!
I found the owner and talked to him
What a gentleman! And what a truck! He was able to tell me the history of it. He owned it since 2006 and only used it for long highway trips, never as a daily driver. I know the service record somewhat now, and what it needs. I was right when I suspected the manifold had been removed. He said the mani cracked and he replaced it himself. I thought the alternator looked newer-check! He had replaced it along with the AC compressor, the rear brakes and had the transmission serviced. He had difficulty removing the front calipers, so I'm going to address that (today??)
Oh and I have procured a set of "243" casting LS GM heads which are now headed my way. Its coming together!
-
Talking to Vinci cams...
-
Power is good. I was looking at heads and they are pricey for the LS. Sounds like you got some standup sellers there.
Think I found an LS intake for my 5.3 swap in the elky, the tall intake is a problem and looks funky.
-
did he happen to say anything about the transfer case?
-
did he happen to say anything about the transfer case?
Sure did. It has never been touched...
-
Polished this heat shield up. Don't know why, just did.
-
Then got after the drivers side
I expected that side to be awful, but it was not. Not very hard at all, just busier with all the wire looms.
-
Then in a quick minute, that side was on the ground. It had also been removed once, showing a non stock gasket
-
Last moment of life without attachment
-
The fit without a hitch. Easy to install from below, plenty of room. Now both tubes are in, time to see what fits and what doesn't in the exhaust.
-
But since the prior owner told me he did not change the front brakes, I will. So in preparation for all that, I pressure washed the front suspension best I could to get ready. I did find some dirt built up behind the fender well liner, so I cleaned all that up. I'll apply undercoating to that area prior to reassembly just to be sure
-
And here it was when I went in to ruin supper. BTW that heater I installed in my garage is kickin' booty! I haven't had a chill one this winter!
-
Looks great so far.
-
Does it NEED front brakes? My 2001 had 125,000 and brakes were close to 50%
-
My LBZ has 160k and the brakes are fine.
-
Tate, can you get the yoke kit for the 263hd for the dmax?
If he doesn’t have it I would call Jesse at high angle
-
More shiny parts like polished heat shields? Are you going to put on that fancy exhaust tip next lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
He was going to use that as a megaphone next time he has to scream at the sky.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Tate, can you get the yoke kit for the 263hd for the dmax?
If he doesn’t have it I would call Jesse at high angle
Looks like good stuff, but I bet he got burned out :embarrassed:
-
Tate, can you get the yoke kit for the 263hd for the dmax?
If he doesn’t have it I would call Jesse at high angle
Looks like good stuff, but I bet he got burned out :embarrassed:
Heck, I hadn’t thought about that. Guess I’ll call tomorrow & check on him....
-
I'd leave the brakes alone. Like others said, those factory ones go forever. The rear ones will usually go first on those.
-
I'd leave the brakes alone. Like others said, those factory ones go forever. The rear ones will usually go first on those.
From experience hauling H around? :tongue:
-
I've got 3 of those t cases remanned with the pump saver kits sitting over in the Florence warehouse if you wind up yarding that one. I don't have slip yoke eliminator kits, but I do have the stockers available.
-
Does it NEED front brakes? My 2001 had 125,000 and brakes were close to 50%
They look to be around 50% or so. But the rotors were pretty scaly with rust, and I question the integrity of the caliper O rings and possible pitting behind the pistons.
I think for safety's sake, I may just change out the wearable items
-
More shiny parts like polished heat shields? Are you going to put on that fancy exhaust tip next lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You secretly want it for your truck??? ;-)
-
I'd leave the brakes alone. Like others said, those factory ones go forever. The rear ones will usually go first on those.
I can confirm that. The previous owner replaced the rear brakes already.
-
I've got 3 of those t cases remanned with the pump saver kits sitting over in the Florence warehouse if you wind up yarding that one. I don't have slip yoke eliminator kits, but I do have the stockers available.
I don't understand what I'm dealing with here. Have no knowledge of this T-Case rub issue. What am I look ing for to access?
Do all of them eventually fail?
At about which point?
Previous owner stated that almost all of the miles on this truck were long drive highway miles, would that affect T-Case were of this nature one way or the other?
-
I think the answer, Don, is "it depends". I've heard of trucks never having an issue with "pump rub", and some failing sub 100K miles.
To remedy the situation, you have to drop and split the case, then replace the oil pump inside. Let me dig up some pics from when I did mine and get them attached here... maybe I'll start a thread.
-
I think every truck is different. A buddy’s case failed at 50k miles. When I put the kit in mine at 145k miles it was just starting to show signs of wear. I caught it just in time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Sam did a write up on his I think... the pump has tabs that slide back and forth against the magnesium and wear tiny pinholes that slowly drain the fluid while underway, so you never really notice till it's too late. The actual cause of complete catastrophic failure on my truck and the reason I have a new Malibu...
-
Speaking of Tate... any update on the Tahoe?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
It’s not that hard to do.
I was late but on time. Had a pinhole didn’t lose the case.
Whatever stuff I put on is still holding too.
Get the kit and do it before it’s too late.
I’ll look if my pics are still good.
-
I think the answer, Don, is "it depends". I've heard of trucks never having an issue with "pump rub", and some failing sub 100K miles.
To remedy the situation, you have to drop and split the case, then replace the oil pump inside. Let me dig up some pics from when I did mine and get them attached here... maybe I'll start a thread.
This sounds painful!
-
Well, it sounds like I can dovetail into something else
I'm corresponding with Joe of Vinci cams. He is going to build the camshaft for my motor. He asked today if I was replacing the torque converter or leaving it stock.
Since I need to pull the transfer to fix this d)(#%! wobblin' pump part, I'd be half way there to the converter swap out...hmmm...
-
So, here's the rest of the Speed Engineering exhaust, the Y-Pipe
-
And of course this inquisitive little guy was all in my business. Named Trooper, I call him "Bub."
-
Bernese mountain mutt ^^^^^^^
(Bern Switzerland)
-
And here it is going in
I have to say, those narrow clamps are junk, pure junk!
I'll replace them with the good stainless wide band clamps
Oh and BTW, I did order the spark plug heat boots so you all will quit squawking!
-
It all ends here and here is where I had to start getting creative
-
So starting with the factory flange I cut it to size, then opened it up
-
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/1fc22f5fff53fe2fc1e2ded7a82823e7.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Using that flange and a combination of new and old 4" tube, I started running the system aft
-
Using these parts, I created the stub, which I welded to another curved section of pipe to run past a crossmember to the muffler
-
I decided to make that whole run one piece, and weld on a hanger to start supporting the weight
-
Now the muffler ends about 14"-16" from where that massive tailpipe begins. So considering I only have a straight through 4" muffler to quiet things, I actually have the room to add a second muffler!
Remember that little one I took off of C-Max when I added the larger quieter one??? Well it just might see action once again.
I cut it down to get it as short as possible. With it slid all the way into the front muffler, the tailpipe is a few inches too long, so next up I may have to cut the front of it shorter to fit. But If I can swing it, I'll have two inline MBRP style mufflers which just may do a satisfactory job of controlling the noise.
-
That tail pipe is absolutely massive!
-
And that's where she ended up at the end of the day
-
NO!!!! We have to wait again!
Miss the green thing,,,,,,,,,,
-
Dropping the T-case is way easy. Lots more to get trans out. But I suppose it would be the time if you so choose to do he converter.
-
You need a car lift! Nice job so far. No CARep though. :(
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Wait until he drives it.
-
Wait until he drives it.
Don't speak that into my life!
Good vibes...Send good vibes
So, the cylinder heads arrived today...Gettin started!
-
No pictures, it didn't happen.
-
Don, I assume you mean a replacement engine build is starting? Surely you didn't just install headers, to remove heads
-
Don, I assume you mean a replacement engine build is starting? Surely you didn't just install headers, to remove heads
Oddly enough, the way the timing of this thing is shaping up, it may turn out exactly that way.
I mean you's guyz threw this T-Case thing on me, so what's a guy to do.
I had planned to tune it with the stock engine now, then get on the cam and heads and intake manifold, but I have the heads already, just a few hours of porting and polishin' away from producin' scads of horse powers, so we is where we is!
Update: I am corresponding with Justin at Black Bear Performance. We are trying to work out my using the Autocal from C-Max tunin' time to download tunes and record engine data. Answer on all that is forthcoming. Meanwhile the cam discussion is awaiting some more input from the builder. I have asked him if, all things considered, do I need to bolt in the converter now or wait?
So, no these heads are not a part of the big inch next engine, however, they will be bolted onto that motor more than likely.
Really, though, I need to get this first combo driving to evaluate it. Who knows it may surprise me and be a good point to stop at...
-
Who knows it may surprise me and be a good point to stop at...
Said Don, never
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Right b4 he broke something and had to do a full oil change..
-
Who knows it may surprise me and be a good point to stop at...
Here we go... :popcorn:
-
Anybody want to buy some property in Arizona? Great view of the ocean. ;-)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Speaking of Tate... any update on the Tahoe?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The Yukon is still sitting in the driveway with just flat no time to deal with it. probably will be there till after the holidays. Oil analysis came back clean, which only proves they had it in the pits long enough to drain and refill to cover their tracks... we're making due with two cars between the 3 of us for now. I do however have some serious GM SUV envy at this point.
-
Yea, sorry for your luck, bummer
But
You may be able to recover that jewel just fine
I copy. These big GM's are really hard not to love. I started with them in 2004 with our first burb. Owned a Yukon Denali, an a Caddy Escalade. Both were super fine, just loved them.
This 2500 is more of a bare knuckle bar-room brawler. Not as refined, rougher ride and just "Trucky" everywhere...Just like I like em'
Settled on the camshaft tonight. Emailing with Mr. Joe Vinci, of Vinci Cams, he recommends a pick they call the "Butt-Kicker."
Big HP and torque gains and 1600-6000 power range.
I'll drop that in after accumulating just a few more parts.
Z06 lifters
moly pushrods
Chevy high volume oil pump
gaskets
Trunion kit
Roller timing chain TBSS intake
90mm TB
-
Cam specs:
DUR @ .050"210*/218*
LIFT .552 / .552
LSA 114*
4A
From the Vinci Website:
"BUTT KICKER"
POWER RANGE 1600 TO 6000
PROVIDES HIGH TORQUE & HP GAINS WITHOUT LOW END LOSSES
GOOD THROTTLE RESPONSE
5.3L - 6.0L
PERFECT FOR THAT "DRIVE-IN" SOUND
GREAT CHOP TO THE IDLE
DUAL VALVE SPRING KIT & MOLY PUSHRODS SUGGESTED
HI-TENSILE 'SINGLE" STEEL SPRINGS
SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR STREET LS APPLICATIONS
-
Cam is purchased and on the way...
Next quest: TBSS intake/injectors/TB
-
Cam is purchased and on the way...
Next quest: TBSS intake/injectors/TB
Nice!!
-
Note I just got from Joe Vinci, Vinci Cams:
Don,
1. LS7 lifters & new lifter trays.
2. Use the stock GM MLS head gaskets
3. I would install a new GM factory timing set
4. If you decide to change the oil pump I would use the Melling high volume pump, but make sure you use the correct oil pump tube seal.
5. I would not recommend using the the TBSS intake or throttle body. It will impede the low end performance of your vehicle. You would be better served installing a torque converter.
So, search for TBSS is now over!
Guess I'll go with the factory 78mm Throttle body
Haven't really decided on the oil pump. I mean this engine has had mostly loafing highway miles, steady state where virtually no wear ever takes place.
Torque converter??? Hmmm, Maybe
-
Note I just got from Joe Vinci, Vinci Cams:
Don,
1. LS7 lifters & new lifter trays.
2. Use the stock GM MLS head gaskets
3. I would install a new GM factory timing set
4. If you decide to change the oil pump I would use the Melling high volume pump, but make sure you use the correct oil pump tube seal.
5. I would not recommend using the the TBSS intake or throttle body. It will impede the low end performance of your vehicle. You would be better served installing a torque converter.
So, search for TBSS is now over!
Guess I'll go with the factory 78mm Throttle body
Haven't really decided on the oil pump. I mean this engine has had mostly loafing highway miles, steady state where virtually no wear ever takes place.
Torque converter??? Hmmm, Maybe
The new factory ones are supposed to be updated to combat timing chain slap I hear too. let me know what you find out, if I wind up tearing down the front cover for an oil pump I'll be doing that as well.
-
Wilco!
-
So, have all the parts on order
GM PErformance: .051 MLS Head gaskets
Timing chain
Cam bolts
Balancer bolts
GM Front cover gasket set
LS7 lifters and lifter trays
odds and ends
Kiss another $500 goodbye!
-
Really thinking this thing through
I did not waste money on stuff I really did not need
Want?? Why yes, but Need, I don't think so
I picked up a new roller timing chain but did not get either gear
I went with the stock oil pump. A gerotor (Spelling??) style pump hardly wears at all...
If I upgrade to the 408" stroker short block, I'll update that stuff then
Saving on the short end here in hopes of maybe affording a torque converter to get the motor a bit more into the torque band with the slightly taller tire without having to go 4.56
Now I am going to search out a full floater 14 bolt from a 2500-3500 silverado. Should be easy to find. If I need to upgrade gear sets, that is when I'll do it.
-
Finding a 14bt will be easy, finding one that fits a Sub will not. Most likely you will have to change all the mounts.
I see head gaskets, you doing the heads now? I would do bolts too.
-
Finding a 14bt will be easy, finding one that fits a Sub will not. Most likely you will have to change all the mounts.
I see head gaskets, you doing the heads now? I would do bolts too.
JR, I think in this year range, the silverado 2500/3500 14 bolt is a direct swap into the burb. Dimensions appear the same. Shock mounts, spring pads also look to be exactly the same. Am I mistaken?
Yes, getting ready to port the heads. Afterward I'll bolt them on and slap the cam in as well. Doing it all at once
-
Not positive, but doubt the truck an SUV share the same frame. Fronts are same for sure.
-
Not positive, but doubt the truck an SUV share the same frame. Fronts are same for sure.
Yea, the only thing I have found different so far is the rear leaf spring in the burb has a slightly different dimension, about 2" different overall.
Why do I know you ask?
Well, I happen to have a set of brand new Silverado, non HD rear leafs sitting in my garage. Want to install in the burb...may install in the burb...
-
Measure your stock rear end Don and I’ll give you measurements from my 2001 hd
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
2001 to 2010 should be the same.
Don't just discount the 9.5 though. They are a stout and have been used for Dmax conversions.
-
If you have the oil pump out, I would change it. They have a tendency to gaul the pressure release valve, which causes them to bypass pressure occasionally.
-
Measure your stock rear end Don and I’ll give you measurements from my 2001 hd
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OK
-
If you have the oil pump out, I would change it. They have a tendency to gaul the pressure release valve, which causes them to bypass pressure occasionally.
There goes another $150
Joe Vinci says to use a Melling high volume replacement pump
-
2001 to 2010 should be the same.
Don't just discount the 9.5 though. They are a stout and have been used for Dmax conversions.
OK, I'm listening. I have wheeled (Hard) on one before. Was stock in my Hummer H2. I remember hammering on it during a long hillclimb at an off road park. If it was going to break, it should have done so then.
But choice for lockers is poor
-
2001 to 2010 should be the same.
Don't just discount the 9.5 though. They are a stout and have been used for Dmax conversions.
OK, I'm listening. I have wheeled (Hard) on one before. Was stock in my Hummer H2. I remember hammering on it during a long hillclimb at an off road park. If it was going to break, it should have done so then.
But choice for lockers is poor
Do you have any photos of this h2 you have spoke about?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
2001 to 2010 should be the same.
Don't just discount the 9.5 though. They are a stout and have been used for Dmax conversions.
OK, I'm listening. I have wheeled (Hard) on one before. Was stock in my Hummer H2. I remember hammering on it during a long hillclimb at an off road park. If it was going to break, it should have done so then.
But choice for lockers is poor
Do you have any photos of this h2 you have spoke about?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Preferably with a big yuppie toothie smile? :tongue:
-
I recall many complaints :cool:
-
Nice acquisition, Don! So, when do you start adding armor plate to the doors, body sides, windows, and windshield? How about a sunroof with foldout mini-gun CROWS system? :cheesy:
-
I can see it now,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
-
I can see it now,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Man, I haven't thought about Tango & Cash in years! :laugh:
-
Nice acquisition, Don! So, when do you start adding armor plate to the doors, body sides, windows, and windshield? How about a sunroof with foldout mini-gun CROWS system? :cheesy:
This crows system, have an extra one handy? or a NSN?? ;-))
Merry Christmas there, Army!
-
2001 to 2010 should be the same.
Don't just discount the 9.5 though. They are a stout and have been used for Dmax conversions.
OK, I'm listening. I have wheeled (Hard) on one before. Was stock in my Hummer H2. I remember hammering on it during a long hillclimb at an off road park. If it was going to break, it should have done so then.
But choice for lockers is poor
Do you have any photos of this h2 you have spoke about?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2001 to 2010 should be the same.
Don't just discount the 9.5 though. They are a stout and have been used for Dmax conversions.
OK, I'm listening. I have wheeled (Hard) on one before. Was stock in my Hummer H2. I remember hammering on it during a long hillclimb at an off road park. If it was going to break, it should have done so then.
But choice for lockers is poor
Do you have any photos of this h2 you have spoke about?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yea
-
Finding a 14bt will be easy, finding one that fits a Sub will not. Most likely you will have to change all the mounts.
I see head gaskets, you doing the heads now? I would do bolts too.
JR, I think in this year range, the silverado 2500/3500 14 bolt is a direct swap into the burb. Dimensions appear the same. Shock mounts, spring pads also look to be exactly the same. Am I mistaken?
Yes, getting ready to port the heads. Afterward I'll bolt them on and slap the cam in as well. Doing it all at once
01-05 2500 all the same truck or suv sir.
-
What was the short list of mods to that? Looks pretty stockish
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Nice acquisition, Don! So, when do you start adding armor plate to the doors, body sides, windows, and windshield? How about a sunroof with foldout mini-gun CROWS system? :cheesy:
This crows system, have an extra one handy? or a NSN?? ;-))
Merry Christmas there, Army!
Let me look around the warehouse.....LOL! Maybe Santa will be nice to you....if your CARREPs don't put you on the naughty list!
Merry Christmas!
-
Finding a 14bt will be easy, finding one that fits a Sub will not. Most likely you will have to change all the mounts.
I see head gaskets, you doing the heads now? I would do bolts too.
JR, I think in this year range, the silverado 2500/3500 14 bolt is a direct swap into the burb. Dimensions appear the same. Shock mounts, spring pads also look to be exactly the same. Am I mistaken?
Yes, getting ready to port the heads. Afterward I'll bolt them on and slap the cam in as well. Doing it all at once
01-05 2500 all the same truck or suv sir.
Good info, Tater...Thanks!
-
OK, Christmas, done-Check!
So back to the build
I nearly finished the exhaust, just lacking one butt joint clamp to fasten it all back together
The fit appears to be OK, with one spot where the pipe touches a transmission heat shield. I'll bend accordingly
I need more room to place the second muffler in line, using the old MBRP unit I still had off of C-Max. To gain the room I slid the tail pipe hanger aft several inches, then cut 1.75" off the front of the massive 4" tailpipe.
-
I coated the spotty aluminum shield with some flammable stuff to keep things dicey and safety nazis in tears. then threw on the 3" full band clamps I sourced from Summit replacing that hick crap supplied by the header guys
-
I had a new 4" lap joint clamp so I employed that sucker keepin' those wonderful carbon foot prints inside the pipage and not leaking all over my rusty and grimy undercarriage!
-
Mind-you, the tail pipe is not connected to the muffler outlet at this point, but it's close enough to start looking at exit strategies. They sent me this gaudy 5" polished tip thing which is the envy of all the honda kids and can be seen from low orbit, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do here...
Maybe work with it, maybe mount it on the wall, maybe sell it to a jap car kid for $2,500, dunno, but this is the approximate outlet location at the moment.
-
My Summit supplied porting burrs and a smokin half bushel of cartridge rolls will show tomorrow, so I almost started disassembling the heads...
They look nice. Those are spendy .660" lift dual springs and goodin steel retainers to keep the stuff in the same configuration whilst beatin' the valve seats to an early death!
-
When I run into a work stoppage, like, no butt joint clamp, I just switch to another project and push that down the road some more.
Since I needed to order that clamp, I started construction of two 5.5' deep drawers that will fit in the area behind the second row.
I am on a specific build plan and a clock. I have something to use the burb for in mid may and it really has to be in the configuration I planned by that time. I'll need storage space and still room for a mattress on top of that for a pre-ranger to catch a cat nap between guard duty shifts.
This pic is of the start. The cabinet construction is progressing right along, but I'll wait till it's done to post all that up...
-
Looking good. There is lots of room in those side compartment areas too. Good for stashing odd things,,,,,,,,,
Saw a burb today with the 10.5. Saw 3 last week with US plates going a little fast up 80 near Sac also. Quite a few out there!
-
Yea, let's talk about that 10.5 vs the 9.5
Tate????
I was looking at that thing yesterday and I am just unimpressed.
The pinion loads just like a regular carrier, mounts directly into the housing, no un-boltable pinion lump thing. Ya know, I am just not in love with that axle, although remembering my H2 full throttle, locked, going up that freaky hill...If it was going to break, it would have broken then. I think I tore a sway bar link apart on that same climb...
So why this tiny car axle vs a dana 95?? or a 17 bolt? ;-))
-
Anything with the 8.1L will have the 10.5 FF, and some 6.0 w/ heavy suspension config. the 9.5 is an OK unit, but the GovLoc is always suspect. Solution? stick a Detroit in there right? new problem is now you're apt to snap one of those spindly axles with all the weight on the bearing journal and have it slide right out of the housing while the pre-rangers and HH6 hand on to the O.S. handles for dear life! No, for what you want to do, and just how you are in general, you need the full float housing. If Duane's falls through, and you can't seem to find one locally, let me know, I've got a guy in PA that is kinda like Norm and just buys up scads of military surplus housings. Read lots of full float 14 bolts with 4.56 gears and lockers sittin on a pallet waitin for the day they get to play with uncle Don.
Oh, and your 9.5 in the H2 survived because it was an eaton electric locker and not a GovLoc. Much less mickey mouse little parts to fail and cause carnage.
-
Anything with the 8.1L will have the 10.5 FF, and some 6.0 w/ heavy suspension config. the 9.5 is an OK unit, but the GovLoc is always suspect. Solution? stick a Detroit in there right? new problem is now you're apt to snap one of those spindly axles with all the weight on the bearing journal and have it slide right out of the housing while the pre-rangers and HH6 hand on to the O.S. handles for dear life! No, for what you want to do, and just how you are in general, you need the full float housing. If Duane's falls through, and you can't seem to find one locally, let me know, I've got a guy in PA that is kinda like Norm and just buys up scads of military surplus housings. Read lots of full float 14 bolts with 4.56 gears and lockers sittin on a pallet waitin for the day they get to play with uncle Don.
Oh, and your 9.5 in the H2 survived because it was an eaton electric locker and not a GovLoc. Much less mickey mouse little parts to fail and cause carnage.
You've confirmed my suspicions, again.
I've been checking Craigslist and FB marketplace. A couple 14 bolt have come and gone, one with a 3.73, and another with an unheard of 3.07!
-
Got more done on the rear storage, as I evaluate what I am going to specifically task that area with and how to manage that stuff. The base turned out really strong. That drill gig thing is very effective, but ultimately the glue does the real holding.
Next up the side pieces, framing out two small storage areas which will have a lid to augment the slide out drawers
Once again, I'll post up an entire thread about how to build this once it is completed, this is just a summary as it were
-
At least it will be easy to setup!
-
Oh, and I have an inbound on the camshaft. So, when I get the exhaust clamp, I'll finish the exhaust and start it up and do the fit and leak check thing, then shut down. I'll probably finish the rear storage cabinet, then immediately switch to porting the heads, followed by tearing the engine down to a short block.
-
At least it will be easy to setup!
Sure will.
So, JR, ever sleep in the back of your burb(s)?
Pre-ranger number 2 is 5'10" at the moment, so I'm thinking he can get away with bunking back there while the other pre-ranger and I occupy the rooftop tent. Sound plausible?
-
Not the current square bodies, but the Dmax yes and in the front this last weekend up in Reno!
I have done memory foam on camping trips, but now I go air mattress. Plus you actually gain room as you store it when not in use.
So on your block. You pulling it to build or getting a new block? No rush/downtime if you go new or used block.
-
Not the current square bodies, but the Dmax yes and in the front this last weekend up in Reno!
I have done memory foam on camping trips, but now I go air mattress. Plus you actually gain room as you store it when not in use.
So on your block. You pulling it to build or getting a new block? No rush/downtime if you go new or used block.
THis engine/vehicle is so babied, well cared for, I'd be a fool not to use the current motor for a time. Naw, I'll get another LQ4 or maybe a LQ9 block to save 90 lbs and build up the new 408 for installation later on.
Right now, I want to add another 100-150 HP, (well, 100 ft/lbs really) and get ready for a possible adventure...
-
Anything with the 8.1L will have the 10.5 FF, and some 6.0 w/ heavy suspension config. the 9.5 is an OK unit, but the GovLoc is always suspect. Solution? stick a Detroit in there right? new problem is now you're apt to snap one of those spindly axles with all the weight on the bearing journal and have it slide right out of the housing while the pre-rangers and HH6 hand on to the O.S. handles for dear life! No, for what you want to do, and just how you are in general, you need the full float housing. If Duane's falls through, and you can't seem to find one locally, let me know, I've got a guy in PA that is kinda like Norm and just buys up scads of military surplus housings. Read lots of full float 14 bolts with 4.56 gears and lockers sittin on a pallet waitin for the day they get to play with uncle Don.
Oh, and your 9.5 in the H2 survived because it was an eaton electric locker and not a GovLoc. Much less mickey mouse little parts to fail and cause carnage.
You've confirmed my suspicions, again.
I've been checking Craigslist and FB marketplace. A couple 14 bolt have come and gone, one with a 3.73, and another with an unheard of 3.07!
The 3.07 is likely either a calculation error or a 9.5 and the seller doesn't understand the difference between full and semi float axles. 3.21 is the tallest configuration the 14t 10.5 ever offered. If you find a prospect you want me to vet, just shoot me a text on the specs and I'll do my thang for ya.
-
Anything with the 8.1L will have the 10.5 FF, and some 6.0 w/ heavy suspension config. the 9.5 is an OK unit, but the GovLoc is always suspect. Solution? stick a Detroit in there right? new problem is now you're apt to snap one of those spindly axles with all the weight on the bearing journal and have it slide right out of the housing while the pre-rangers and HH6 hand on to the O.S. handles for dear life! No, for what you want to do, and just how you are in general, you need the full float housing. If Duane's falls through, and you can't seem to find one locally, let me know, I've got a guy in PA that is kinda like Norm and just buys up scads of military surplus housings. Read lots of full float 14 bolts with 4.56 gears and lockers sittin on a pallet waitin for the day they get to play with uncle Don.
Oh, and your 9.5 in the H2 survived because it was an eaton electric locker and not a GovLoc. Much less mickey mouse little parts to fail and cause carnage.
You've confirmed my suspicions, again.
I've been checking Craigslist and FB marketplace. A couple 14 bolt have come and gone, one with a 3.73, and another with an unheard of 3.07!
The 3.07 is likely either a calculation error or a 9.5 and the seller doesn't understand the difference between full and semi float axles. 3.21 is the tallest configuration the 14t 10.5 ever offered. If you find a prospect you want me to vet, just shoot me a text on the specs and I'll do my thang for ya.
It is so good being backed up like this
So that post is bogus. The pic clearly shows an old style (No ribs) 14bolt FF. That means it is some other ratio.
Oh and I found a posting of a Dana 60 which was actually a semi-float 9.5 15 bolt from a hummer. Hmmm, wonder if that might not be a choice...Eaton...
So Tater, this guy in PE who squirrels away the mil's 14 bolts. Lockers and 4.56...
I am wondering what I could buy one for???
Also that opens the gear ratio discussion up. So if I am running a 4.10 with the factory tire, and go to a 33" circumference, I'll be cutting the RPM back. If I went to a 4.56, I think I'd increase RPM a tad for any given speed, but if I went to a 34" tire, maybe even a 35" I could get a better roll over trail obstacles, bet another 1/2"-1" height and get the RPM right.
Then JR has that 4.56 setup for the front...
-
4.56 and 35" w/ the 6.0L w/ the 4L80E trans puts you at 2134rpm at 65mph. 4.11 and 33" puts you at 2040 at the same speed. relatively speaking, they're the same.
Now that being said, 4.56 and 33" are only 2263rpm at 65mph. I don't recall your power band on the cam and heads, but the right gear could keep you in your power band longer. Play with it a bit here and you can inject different gear ratios, tire sizes, transmission gear ratios and speeds to see what suits you best. https://www.randysworldwide.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm. My recommendation for what you're doing, added weight and the power demands is 4.56 regardless of 33"-35", and 4.88 for 37+ which I hope you dont do. :wink:
-
Cam is 1600-6500. A lot of the torque available is in at the low 2000's range. A diesel like gaser with some revability???
-
Finished the carpentry part of the storage cabinet build.
Again, details later, but here is the top covered with 3/4" plywood. I tested the pre-ranger sleeping in the back, he fits well!
-
Those look good, nice job. Was wondering about the slides which I see you built.
Does the bottom of the drawer sit flush? IE it doesn't break with stuff bouncing over the KIA's and mulch :laugh:
-
Those look good, nice job. Was wondering about the slides which I see you built.
Does the bottom of the drawer sit flush? IE it doesn't break with stuff bouncing over the KIA's and mulch :laugh:
Yes, the bottoms of the drawers are 3/8" plywood recessed into the sides and back panels. I am writing a build thread on that cabinet at the moment down in construction projects.
Here:
http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=3785.msg84404#msg84404
-
Looks good Don. I’ve been trying to find a source for composite lumber. It can be joined much like normal wood, eg kreg and ss screws.
I’d like to make some outdoor chairs, bird feeders etc.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Composite lumber. Wouldn't that just be LVL's and plywood/OSB?
-
No. It’s more like trex decking. Recycled plastic and epoxy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
No. It’s more like trex decking. Recycled plastic and epoxy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That sounds cool,,,,,,,,,
-
No. It’s more like trex decking. Recycled plastic and epoxy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not as completely indestructible as some would have you think
I have decks and walkways made of the stuff and I have to get after it regularly. It does not split and crack, but it does warp and cup. Fades as well. I spray it every year with a wood preservative and it does OK. Now, having said that, should I have built with wood, my decks would have been toast by now. Have built many of them and they do not last like the composite stuff. Recycled plastic and ground up wood (read: Sawdust like consistency)
-
No. It’s more like trex decking. Recycled plastic and epoxy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not as completely indestructible as some would have you think
I have decks and walkways made of the stuff and I have to get after it regularly. It does not split and crack, but it does warp and cup. Fades as well. I spray it every year with a wood preservative and it does OK. Now, having said that, should I have built with wood, my decks would have been toast by now. Have built many of them and they do not last like the composite stuff. Recycled plastic and ground up wood (read: Sawdust like consistency)
Good info, my next home will have two porches constructed of this stuff. Just got rid of a large cedar deck that needed stained twice a year. :likebutton:
-
Yes the early versions were not as good as the newer stuff. The new stuff is guaranteed for life in some cases, like outdoor furniture.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
So, again, just the completion pics here and the build part of the storage cabinet over in its thread
So I have it almost complete. I need to coat the underside with some spar varnish, then mount it in the burb, but other than that, its ready to go to work for us
-
:likebutton:
-
I certainly approve of the color combo
:thumb
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Looks good, red sure jumps out at you.
I’ve been wondering if you couldn’t have just bought some inexpensive roller bearings and used them versus the wood slides?
-
One positive thing about the wood slides is less opportunity for rattles as you’re driving down the road.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I certainly approve of the color combo
:thumb
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah yes...Almost forgot...Of course!
-
Looks good, red sure jumps out at you.
I’ve been wondering if you couldn’t have just bought some inexpensive roller bearings and used them versus the wood slides?
Shawn, I wonder where they would have been??? I looked everywhere. Even the cheapo chinese ones were a couple bucks each. I'd need 14 to 16 per slide, two per drawer so I'd still need sixty some of them and still not had the aluminum for the slider, which would have put me right back at a couple/few hundred, so for that, I'd opt for the slides.
Naw, I mean for this and everything I am going to do with this build to be low cost/big return for the money spent
These drawers could be critiqued fairly easily, doesn't have screw holes far enough apart, gather moisture, no ball bearing slides and so forth. But at the end of the day, I now have the storage space I needed and a bunk for Ranger number 2.
On to the next project...
-
And I need to ask a question of the group, particularly Kenneth.
The truck is an 02 (Read: old grease) with 96,000 miles. Should I replace the front unit bearings in preparation for a several thousand mile upcoming trip? There are zero signs of anything being wrong with them???
I am replacing the belt tensioner and idler pulley on the front of the motor as routine maintenance and a preventative measure, and while I am digging around replacing the front brake parts, should I go further???
-
Not if they are quiet and tight. Pre-04 I've seen go past 200k, depending on climate and use. I don't know what they did after that, but pretty sure they used the same grease, but not as much...they start sounding dry (ticking) in as few as 50k in my experience. The new timkens do the same .
-
Not if they are quiet and tight. Pre-04 I've seen go past 200k, depending on climate and use. I don't know what they did after that, but pretty sure they used the same grease, but not as much...they start sounding dry (ticking) in as few as 50k in my experience. The new timkens do the same .
OK, hmmm, didn't expect to hear that
So, just keep the stockers. Ken, you sure are saving me money!
-
OK, so engine work about to commence. Cam is due in tomorrow or next day. So looking at bumpers, I may not have the time to build the front and rear, may have to buy the front, bolt in a winch and call it done. The rear I will have to build to get it to do everything I need it to do
For my front bumper purchase if it comes to that, my first choice will be the ARB Bull bar and the second will be the Trail Ready with all the added grill guard stuff as pictured on the 99 Suburban...
-
So how do they fit and what locks/latches?
I like the trialready a little more. ARB you are paying for the name. Price diff?
I agree on the hubs too, if tight, why bother.
-
Carry a spare hub. Not that hard to change just make sure you have the socket. What 34mm?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
I do carry one, get them on ebay for $50, new. I also carry upper ball joints.
The real hard ones are the brake brackets (long arse breaker bar!)and hub bolts (6pt 15mm?). I can do in an hour at home.
-
Carry a spare hub. Not that hard to change just make sure you have the socket. What 34mm?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Good idea, and yea, either a 34mm or a 35mm, and I have a couple...
-
So how do they fit and what locks/latches?
I like the trialready a little more. ARB you are paying for the name. Price diff?
I agree on the hubs too, if tight, why bother.
Haven't fashioned a retention system. Going to be simple, magnets, velcro, latch???
It sits a couple inches from the rear hatch so it isn't moving much and even after brushing on melted wax today, and burning that into the wood, they do not slide freely, but require a little tug to get started. They may loosen up in time, but right now, about what I wanted.
ARB bumper is maybe $200 less, although I haven't contacted anyone and negotiated yet.
-
Doesn't Bear make custom bumpers?
-
Doesn't Bear make custom bumpers?
that would be my vote, if bear still has all his stuff?! if your going to give your money to a company to build you something, why not give it to a real man member?
-
I'm pretty sure I could get do a front and rear bumper. I did an 02 2500 (non HD) truck last winter and I assume it would be the same as that? I can do a lot of customization but here are a few similar examples of what I have done in the past.
03 style truck, but a full brush guard would be similar to this one
(https://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/DMAX/Bumper/PlowBumper4_zpsa198c42b.jpg~original) (https://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/DMAX/Bumper/PlowBumper4_zpsa198c42b.jpg.html)
02 2500HD Bumper, the 2500 non HD would be kind of similar to this
(https://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/IMG957285_zpsnp0t8irn.jpg~original) (https://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/IMG957285_zpsnp0t8irn.jpg.html)
Rear Bumper, this one has a built in receiver that would replace the factory receiver but I can build it to work with factory also
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/DMAX/Bumper/008-1.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/DMAX/Bumper/008-1.jpg.html)
-
Hmmm, Interesting...
-
And you can customize it like a real man!
-
I like those options! :likebutton: bear for the win....
-
A little breakdown of how I do things/ my process.
I do this as an out my garage side business that I run. I do this to support some of my more expensive hobbies, (use to be trucks, now mostly guns) but mostly because I enjoy working with my hands and creating/ building them. Because everything is in CAD, and I build these one at a time per order I can do a lot of customization rather easily without a bunch of extra charges. I can cut holes, add lights etc... pretty easily. Some requests might take me a little longer to figure out how to make it work but I can usually figure out a way to make it happen or make suggestions on what I can do that might work for you. I actually enjoy doing what I can to customize the bumper and give my customers as close to what they want as I can build. I do the majority of the work but do outsource a couple steps.
I do all the computer/ CAD work in my home office on my desktop. After customizing a bumper I send a flat file to a local shop that laser cuts all my steel parts. It usually takes about a week for me to see steel parts after I send them the file to cut. With the parts being built in CAD and laser cut I get a perfect line-on-line fit between all the parts. Some parts are notched/ slotted to fit together and form the frame and center portion of the bumper.
After getting the cut steel back I do a little cleanup work and then tack/ weld the bumper together. Then a couple hours of grinding to clean up and blend all the corners together.
After the base bumper is built I will add any extra brush guards etc.. Again I use another local shop to cnc bend all the tubing and then cope/ mill the ends to the appropriate length and shape so that everything fits together nearly perfectly. The base bumper plates would have been cut initially with holes in the plates to accept any guarding. The tube from the guards will pass through the bumper plates so that it can be welded on both the exterior and interior of the bumper.
In the past I have supplied everything to my customers from a finished, painted, installed bumper to just emailing them the flat file and a set of instructions for assembly.
A couple things to note about my bumpers compared to other manufacturers:
My bumpers don't protrude out in front of the truck nearly as much in front of the bumper as many other brands. When I started out I wanted to built a bumper that would look appropriate on a stock to leveled truck without need a 6"+ lift and 35s to make a huge bumper look like it fits. A result of the sleeker bumper is that winch access can be more difficult. The biggest issue is getting access to the lever to put the winch in free spool/ re-engage it. For most of my customers this is not a concern. For others I have some work round's depending on model.
Nearly everything is built from 7 ga steel (about 3/16"). In my calculations, experience and customer feedback this is thick more than thick enough to protect from the animal collisions most people are purchasing these bumpers for. In larger collisions with other vehicles or other immovable objects the bumper plates may deform but ultimately will protect the vehicle allowing it to drive away from the accident. I have pictures of one of my front and rear bumpers installed on a truck from a couple of years ago. He rear-ended somebody on the freeway and then himself was rear ended. There was a small amount of damage to the plates of the bumper but no other damage was done to any exterior panels or internals. He was the only one of 4 people in the accident to drive away. If you think you need thicker or just want the added weight I can upsize the entire bumper to 1/4".
Most of my bumpers are sold raw steel. I can paint, but don't really enjoy doing it, which is why I don't generally do it. If I paint it, I don't give you any guarantee. I don't charge much more than what the materials cost and a little bit for my prep time, not nearly enough to give any type of warranty on it. If I'm shipping it I'm not painting it. By the time I spend the money on materials and my time to prep, paint, package it up carefully and spend the extra on shipping insurance and then dealing with the hassle should it get damaged in shipping it is just cheaper for you to have somebody local paint it.
-
I like that! Have you done any square bodies? EI, mid 80's like my burb?
-
I'm fairly impressed, bear took a butt ugly front end on that 2003 and made it look great! That alone would sell me on his designs! Bravo :beercheers:
-
I like that! Have you done any square bodies? EI, mid 80's like my burb?
I've got most of the GM line from 99-13 with a few models missing here and there. That's about it though. I'm sure I could expand the line-up more but at the present this selection keeps me busy enough. I'm asked about the 90's body style often enough and would be glad to do it if somebody local asked and was willing to let me use there truck for a few days but so far that hasn't happened. It should be easy enough to do as those older trucks don't have nearly as much going on with the front end.
I'm fairly impressed, bear took a butt ugly front end on that 2003 and made it look great! That alone would sell me on his designs! Bravo :beercheers:
Thanks. I have a specific front bumper for every model. I don't try and make one bumper fit multiple bodies and add filler pieces like some do.
-
So, sure many are thinking this.
Cost for a bumper kit shipped.
Cost for file to cut local or excuse for a table!
-
Bear,
Your capability is noteworthy
I'll send you a PM and share some ideas
-
I quickly attached the tailpipe to the muffler to see if I like any of this setup. I can't say I do very much. The tailpipe exit point is going to make me a "Taildragger" on high departure angle stuff, so I will likely readdress this.
But I started the thing up anyway and it was running really funky. Mind you, the aft two O2 sensors are not connected and the computer has not been recalibrated, so I'm sure that accounts for the wacky engine behavoit. I did, however get a sample of the sound. It's much louder than stock, like a muffled bark
-
And that's all that setup will ever see, tomorrow starts the engine teardown. I have everything sitting in the shop now after receiving the camshaft from the brown truck guy today.
So as per everyone's recommendations I have a truck cam, optimized to make a bunch more torque and more horsepower as well. I expect to be adding over 100 with the new heads which yield a higher compression ratio, the bump stick, the headers and open exhaust and of course a tune by BlackBear Performance.
With that done, I slid the storage cabinet into the back and was pleasantly surprised with a perfect fit!
-
With it in there, I am looking at cargo configurations. Lots of area right here:
-
The lids open with no interference
-
I like this Suburban, well, I like all of them really. Just by folding down one of the rear seats, I retain passenger carrying capability while opening a goodly area up for baggage
-
Back to the storage locker, the drawer slides operate quite will. I melted paraffin wax into all mating surfaces, worked that awhile, then sprayed with some silicone. It slides quite well, but also will stay put needing a bit of a tug to get started. That alone will prevent unintentional opening
-
And the small drawer fits those three Bosch utility boxes perfectly.
-
Imagine lying on the mattress on top of the cabinet with the window of the hatch open. It all fell at about the right height
-
I'll be doing something to these areas to store some things without intruding into "Living" space.
-
I remember those areas on the side from my old 96, pretty much the same.
Very nice fit and work by the way. The pass side will have lots of AC stuff under there, the drivers not so much.
Think there is a factory cover for all that too.
Nice spot for a shotgun behind the rear seat,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
-
That turned out really nice. Great job Boss!
-
I remember those areas on the side from my old 96, pretty much the same.
Very nice fit and work by the way. The pass side will have lots of AC stuff under there, the drivers not so much.
Think there is a factory cover for all that too.
Nice spot for a shotgun behind the rear seat,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Yes! Good call bro!
-
That turned out really nice. Great job Boss!
Thank ya sir
Yep, got lucky!
-
Can’t believe you covered up the subwoofer!!
-
I really like the box, Don! Question: how are the lids for the forward bins secured, when closed? Also, how is the entire assembly secured to the floor?
Just curious for how all that will stay put if (God forbid) you get in a rollover situation.
-
Has he ever been on his lid?
Errr...wait. I recall a chapter in the book....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Has he ever been on his lid?
Errr...wait. I recall a chapter in the book....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:facepalm:
:beercheers:
:popcorn:
-
Can’t believe you covered up the subwoofer!!
Not a sub woofer...
And it doesn't matter if you cover up a sub woofer
Post a demerit! ;-)
-
I really like the box, Don! Question: how are the lids for the forward bins secured, when closed? Also, how is the entire assembly secured to the floor?
Just curious for how all that will stay put if (God forbid) you get in a rollover situation.
I haven't added them yet, but a simple turnbuckle system, two the the rear seat frames in the front, and two to the aft floor mounted tie down points...pilot simple, and not easily screwed up!
-
I know you went over as a civi contractor pilot, but did they make you go thru the roll over trainer?
-
I know you went over as a civi contractor pilot, but did they make you go thru the roll over trainer?
Never even heard of it, Nate...
-
So as of this morning, I purchased an AutoCal from Black Bear Performance. They already shipped it to me. There is a process that I will detail here on this thread about how their process works.
Basically, I get the handheld, plug it into my OBD2 port and download a copy of the software already in the truck. This will serve as the basis for Justin to build upon. I'll email that to them, and he will make the changes IAW my desires and the modifications I am doing. When I get that back, I'll load it into the Burb and go happily on my way.
So it begins
-
And, I started the engine disassembly today. THings came apart quite easily
That fan came right off after smacking a punch against one of the flats of the nut. Makes me wonder if it had been off recently???
-
Taking my time as I went along, things just kept coming right off fairly easily
-
The harmonic balancer bolt, a 24mm biggin, broke my first socket, but I had a spare!
-
Next I went after the coil packs and wiring harness.
-
At this point the crankcase and engine internals is more or less still sealed, and I wanted to keep it that way for a time. I sprayed the purple detergent on the accumulated greasy areas, and will pressure wash them again tomorrow, allow to dry some, then continue disassembly
-
I'm taking lots of notes and bagging and labeling things to make reassembly go well
-
I always bagged and labeled stuff, never made a list though. Probably not a bad idea right there!
-
You have a puller for that balancer D? Not like the old ones.
-
You have a puller for that balancer D? Not like the old ones.
Ken, you're reading my mind
Was on my way over to O'Reilly's this AM to borrow one. Any particular one you recommend??
-
I always bagged and labeled stuff, never made a list though. Probably not a bad idea right there!
You saying you agree with something I did?
Sayin' Don's pretty smart
and that Big D's one of the bestest mechanics you have ever seen
That you admire him to the moon and back
That what you're sayin'???
:-0
-
I have one like this, but it's a two jaw...errrrrrrrr.....
-
Hey, he even used a nut to protect the threads!
What HB don't you need a puller for?
-
Hey, he even used a nut to protect the threads!
What HB don't you need a puller for?
Cummins 12V not sure about the 24V
-
Quite a few JR, like most asians.
I just meant that the new chevys (ls style) take a special puller. No holes in the balancer, and takes a long pin that bottoms out inside crank hole...or I suppose, like the guy rigged in that pic.
-
I picked up a puller from OReillys today, a borrowed one. I didn't get to the HB in the teardown, that's next, so not knowing at this point how all that will turn out
I can say, this is a bunch of work! And I am wondering exactly how I am supposed to get those outside rear cylinder head bolts back in. Going to be a bear. Lots of body work in the way of things in this year range of truck...
-
So first up, I pressure washed the motor and the chassis parts that I could not reach earlier. I'm starting to get a pretty clean base to work with
-
When I pulled the intake manifold, I started to discover the missing 16 years of exposure to the environment. Oak leaves!
-
No real corrosion to speak of, just grease and dirt. I was vacuuming and wiping it down as I went along trying to minimize FOD to something inside the motor
-
I bagged the bolts and small parts in a baggie with purple stuff cleaner sprayed in as well. By tomorrow those parts will be clean as a whistle
-
I pulled the valley cover to get a look at the top of the oiled area of the motor and have a peek at the knock sensors. One was OK, one was heavily corroded and will get replaced
The valley cover and everything else is currently soaking in the purple detergent losing some non-necessary grease calories!
-
The valve covers were dirtier on the outside than on the inside. Whatever oil the previous owner has been using certainly did a good job of keeping things clean!
-
Same-same here. I may just wipe the rockers down and reinstall
-
Valvetrain is looking great! The pushrods will not be reused. I am switching to chrome-molly units supplied with the new cam.
-
The bare "317" head. Darned thing is clean, clean, clean
-
Some more wrench bending and I was down to a shortblock
-
All the cylinders still have the cross-hatch hone marks and zero lip at the top of the bore. THis thing is not showing much wear at all. I think it was a good choice to dump a bunch of power onto this shortblock, as all signs point to a barely used engine.
The fluid puddled in the bores is WD-40
-
I think those are the sodium filled tulip exhaust valves...Ken???
So these heads are good, but sport a slightly larger combustion chamber than the 243 heads going back on. That increased volume and the slightly dished pistons made for a lower compression ratio that would work hard on poor gas. The 243 heads will bump compression up to either 10.5:1 or 10.7:1.
Interestingly this head draws its lineage from the corvette LS-6 head. The LS-6 motor featured a smaller bore than the full n 4" bore of the 6.0 liter. So Chevy knowing they had a great breathing head used the exact same port in a configuration set to fit the larger 4.0" bore. THe first casting, the 243 head used all of the LS-6 stuff, but for the larger bore. The 243 head was given a slightly larger chamber and renumbered the 317
All of these heads feature the tall cathedral port that flows some ridiculous numbers and is the reason these LS motors like bigger cams and make so darned much power.
-
Oh and note to self: Use fuel system cleaner often to avoid the carbon shag carpet in the intake port phenomena!
-
Amazon has a pretty good deal on a 3 pk of BG44k
-
I pulled the valley cover to get a look at the top of the oiled area of the motor and have a peek at the knock sensors. One was OK, one was heavily corroded and will get replaced
The valley cover and everything else is currently soaking in the purple detergent losing some non-necessary grease calories!
Let me guess... the rear knock sensor?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
That far in, replace them both.
-
Definitely both, only delco, and a new harness siliconed in place, with a 1/4"x1/4" silicone dam around the front of the grommets 180 degrees... open on back half. ..per GM bulletin, to help keep water out of those stupid holes...and don't pressure wash that motor ever again if you can help it.
-
I pulled the valley cover to get a look at the top of the oiled area of the motor and have a peek at the knock sensors. One was OK, one was heavily corroded and will get replaced
The valley cover and everything else is currently soaking in the purple detergent losing some non-necessary grease calories!
Let me guess... the rear knock sensor?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yup
-
Definitely both, only delco, and a new harness siliconed in place, with a 1/4"x1/4" silicone dam around the front of the grommets 180 degrees... open on back half. ..per GM bulletin, to help keep water out of those stupid holes...and don't pressure wash that motor ever again if you can help it.
K-
the front rubber boot ripped when I pulled that cover off...???
New harness??? Where, Chevy?
Have to go find that bulletin...
-
I wonder if this has been a problem with this particular vehicle in the past. I found a piece of foam that had been pushed into the front edge below the intake manifold base, as if to stop water from travelling aft.
I wonder if I shouldn't just install a perimeter of weather stripping that would seal against the bottom of the manifold??
-
That foam is factory but does little to stop water, especially from the sides of the intake.
Dorman makes a cheap harness.
-
My ‘02 5.3L had the same issue, rear as well. Harness was the most expensive part, but at the time I think I got it from the stealer and it was $50-$60. Don’t recall hearing about the rtv bulletin at that time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Took me a bit to find it. this says to do just the rear sensor, but I do both.
I also wouldn't recommend trying to seal the bottom of the intake. For one, I don't think you could do it 100%, and 2, you want air to circulate under it.
-
OK, copy, and thanks Ken
Tried to source two Delco knock sensors...$64 ea and not available. Harness at the dealership. Trying over at Summit Racing in a minute.
-
Check flea bay. Saw a AC Delco set with harness for reasonable
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
does rock auto have them?
-
OK, got it done
Two Delco Knock sensors, one Dorman harness and a tube of dielectric grease, $138
Be here Monday
-
I didn't get too much done, Saturday and all...
But I did get the harmonic balancer pulled along with chasing down some more parts and ordering the knock sensors
The area looks like something we left after the attack over in the box...A mess!
-
So, here's the three arm puller and if you look at the label you will note the box says it is intended for use on Chrysler vehicles
I guess the Chrysler balancers require shorter extensions because the ones supplied were not long enough
-
An extension fits into the rifle drilled part of the bolt which properly sizes it to pull your balancer
-
So this little fact, not having a long enough "push rod" started me on a little adventure that would have me cutting, grinding, figurin' (Cipherin') and end up taking a lot more time than I would have thought
Just so happened that a push rod recently harvested from the engine was the right length, and fit perfectly into the bolt!
-
You can see it here, positioned nicely and ready to do the heavy lifting:
-
But in the end it was not up to the task at hand. I believe this pushrod has given up its all!
-
Well, not to be thwarted by a little old balancer, next, I spied a head bolt soaking in some dexicool on my garage floor, so the sparks went flyin'
-
Well after a bunch of grinding and cutting, I tried it and found it to be too short. You know the old adage, "I cut it twice and its still too short." Well, yea...
But then I remembered the pic that I posted showing some knucklehead using a bolt head to shove against and my third invention of the morning was conceived
Take the old balancer bolt, saw off the generous flange, run it in there and push against that!
Yea, its ugly, but it was gonna work!
-
Then to set the length on the end of the bolt, I simply used a 5/16" bolt with a nut I could adjust for length
-
I put the impact against it and that balancer came right off!
-
I really want to pull the camshaft and the rest of the crap and start reassembly, but let me see, first there's wrestling, then dinner, then church, then someone's birthday party, then stacking some more wood, then at least one honey-do, then fatigue and sleep. So in a couple days I'll be dissecting further into this thing, addin' parts, cleaning and paintin' parts, and who knows what else!
-
I just saw this thread and want to say that I have a much higher mileage twin to this rig. Mine is a 2001 with 280 something thousand miles on it. I like the truck a lot, except for fuel economy. Lol
A couple of pointers;
the stuff I read when I had my valley plate and knock sensors out said to remove the rear foam block that you saw under the intake in addition to the rtv dams in front of the sensors.
The nasty buildup that you saw in the intake was probably from the crappy pcv system, not poor fuel. Some people like to run catch cans, even on stock engines to keep that stuff out of the intake. I heard that there's a valley plate from a Corvette that has the pcv built in that will work on the lq4 that's supposed to be better than the stock set up. I wonder if just drilling and tapping a hole for a fitting in the stock one will accomplish the same thing, or maybe two fittings, one to attach the hose from the stock pcv location and one to go to the intake? Just something I've been brainstorming. There is also an updated pcv valve that doesn't have a check ball in it.
On tires, (I have only skimmed through the first and last pages, so you might have figured something out, I'll catch up later) my suburban came with the 6" lift and 35"x12.5" tires on 17" wheels. The tires rubbed quite a bit so I folded the pinch welds on the front of the cab to stop this, but it'd still rub when I turned sometimes. I went with 315/70/17's when I got new wheels and tires and they don't ever rub.
I had a very hard time finding the gaskets for the little coolant bypass pipe that bolts to the corners of the heads. If you need some, the only ones that I was able to find were doorman part number 56390. The issue was nobody's catalog showed them, so it took a ton of looking.
Hopefully you have better luck with all the power options inside than I do. I don't think the seats have worked right since I got it, and I've had a couple of blend door motors go bad too. I've also been through a few window regulators.
Probably the coolest thing I've figured out though was how to turn off the "service suspension" light that comes on when you get rid of the auto ride struts. Some people have luck wiring resistors in place of the struts, but in my case, I was able to just unplug the control module (it's in the right rear corner between the rear climate control and the taillight) and unplug the battery for a bit. The light hasn't come back on in a couple of years now.
-
I just saw this thread and want to say that I have a much higher mileage twin to this rig. Mine is a 2001 with 280 something thousand miles on it. I like the truck a lot, except for fuel economy. Lol
A couple of pointers;
the stuff I read when I had my valley plate and knock sensors out said to remove the rear foam block that you saw under the intake in addition to the rtv dams in front of the sensors.
The nasty buildup that you saw in the intake was probably from the crappy pcv system, not poor fuel. Some people like to run catch cans, even on stock engines to keep that stuff out of the intake. I heard that there's a valley plate from a Corvette that has the pcv built in that will work on the lq4 that's supposed to be better than the stock set up. I wonder if just drilling and tapping a hole for a fitting in the stock one will accomplish the same thing, or maybe two fittings, one to attach the hose from the stock pcv location and one to go to the intake? Just something I've been brainstorming. There is also an updated pcv valve that doesn't have a check ball in it.
On tires, (I have only skimmed through the first and last pages, so you might have figured something out, I'll catch up later) my suburban came with the 6" lift and 35"x12.5" tires on 17" wheels. The tires rubbed quite a bit so I folded the pinch welds on the front of the cab to stop this, but it'd still rub when I turned sometimes. I went with 315/70/17's when I got new wheels and tires and they don't ever rub.
I had a very hard time finding the gaskets for the little coolant bypass pipe that bolts to the corners of the heads. If you need some, the only ones that I was able to find were doorman part number 56390. The issue was nobody's catalog showed them, so it took a ton of looking.
Hopefully you have better luck with all the power options inside than I do. I don't think the seats have worked right since I got it, and I've had a couple of blend door motors go bad too. I've also been through a few window regulators.
Probably the coolest thing I've figured out though was how to turn off the "service suspension" light that comes on when you get rid of the auto ride struts. Some people have luck wiring resistors in place of the struts, but in my case, I was able to just unplug the control module (it's in the right rear corner between the rear climate control and the taillight) and unplug the battery for a bit. The light hasn't come back on in a couple of years now.
Good info!
On the tires, I'm leaning toward 285R75-16 (33", 11.00 wide) however no decision made yet. I want to build it as a system. Larger tire begat gear change vs suspension lift and taller needing better sway bars and so forth.
So since the tailpipe bone is connected to the headlight bone, I am trying to think of the thing as a system.
I also may build my "Intermediate" truck for now as I am on a sort of a deadline.
I am planning a trip up to Washington state starting the second week of May and lasting upwards of a month. If I can swing it, I'd like to stop and get a pic of me and as many of yaw (You all in the queens english) as possible and maybe share a cup of quoffee or tea. I want some time with my pre-rangers before they fly the coup and become real Rangers.
So I only really have like 4 months remaining to get this thing kitted out for the trip which will include trail driving in as many national parks and trails as I can find time and courage to crawl over. I also have to sort out the roof top tent and camping thing, and all the wile, still maintain some presence in the other facets of my life.
Having said that, expect simple. Maybe just a 3" lift for now, and 33 " tires, and just 400ish HP and so forth
Included in this build are a couple of bumpers which, thanks to the urgings of all of you boneheads will be supplied by Bear of this web site.
Its a little early, but he is working up my requested design changes and will supply me a file which I will happily motor over to a laser steel cutter 15 miles away. Then I'll save massive time putting the puzzle together and end up with a winch, pioneer gear and some prius killin meat grinders
So, Dorman 56390...Got it!
Oh and I no-havie auto joke, err, auto ride.
-
Some boxes are starting to pile up, so I decided to start the day off with working down the pile somewhat
First up, replace the factory fuel filter with a new AC Delco unit
-
Next up, a quick change of the cabin air filter. The one I took out looked to have been recently changed, it was spotless. I installed a better one with activated charcoal.
-
Again, you will note the stuff I uncovered looked absolutely new!
Next I installed the dash mounted solar cell battery trickle charger.
-
Then it was back to motor work. I removed the timing cover first
-
And that's when I learned about the LS motor oil pump...
Yea
It has a little surprise. And now I understand why so many people don't replace it or the timing chain. It is held in place by four easy to-get-to bolts and one devious little monster that is next to impossible to even see.
Turns out you need to drop the oil pan to get a wee bit more clearance to see that bolt. Now with the radiator and condensor still in place, I can't get a good look at the thing and that makes things even more difficult.
So I went about loosening the oil pan bolts and was able to get to all of them, save one. The pesky bolt that sits directly above that big 9.25" AAM front differential is almost as difficult to access. The only way to get to it is to fish a short 10mm socket attached to a universal joint attached to a "wobble" extension.
And
For
Some
Reason
That universal socket was nowhere to be found!
I ran into a total work stoppage, where the goal for today was to get the cam out and the new one in.
So with no options, I shifted gears and took to scrubbing the parts I had removed, then spraying them with brake cleaner, then painting..
Iron will go back black. The aluminum castings that Farm-all gray, and a splash of chevy orange on the valve covers just to jazz things up a tad bit.
-
And the mailman delivered the AutoCal tuner from Justin at BlackBear Performance.
I'll open that sucker up tomorrow and probably pull a stock tune out of the computer to send to them so they can get busy building me a tune for this thing.
-
Don, my helper knows a few things about mods to that engine, and we were discussing your build. The first thing he asked me was " is he doing a Trailblazer SS intake swap ? It's good for 30hp, and you can get a new Dorman off Amazon for 240.00". You hear about that anywhere? He says it's a pretty easy swap, but he's also in his 20's so ya might take that with a grain of salt. lol
When you drop that pan be sure to change the oil cooler gasket, and GM pan gasket is just slightly more than a felpro and they last a little bit longer....and be sure the pickup tube o-ring is in the pump box, and make sure it's the right thickness compared to the old one...there are a couple different sizes/colors (color not as important). That o-ring is the weak link of LS motors, capable of sending roller lifters and crankshafts to the boneyard at an early age.
-
All this talk got me looking. Found a big boy with a big boy price... 8.1L
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/757834692/overview?aff=share_other
Ok, this one is a little better.
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/760367690/overview?aff=share_other
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Ryan, that 44k one looks nice. 226 on the other!! :rolleyes:
Sounds like a good plan so far. If you go wheels, because you want wider for sure, you could still do 17's and clear with a 3 inch lift (really just a level kit).
I probably went backwards with my intake, but I have a clearance issue with the elky hood. I now have an LS intake vs the truck 5.3 and a CTS pan.
Bumpers sound cool, can't wait to see em. What is you planned route for the trip?
-
May huh? I was just talking to my wife about if we had enough weekends between now and May to build a truck from a bare frame. Sounds like we might both be busy.
-
May huh? I was just talking to my wife about if we had enough weekends between now and May to build a truck from a bare frame. Sounds like we might both be busy.
I plan to stop in and finally meet you two, get a pic or two. Maybe talk you out of the WW2 bomb! ;-)
-
Don, my helper knows a few things about mods to that engine, and we were discussing your build. The first thing he asked me was " is he doing a Trailblazer SS intake swap ? It's good for 30hp, and you can get a new Dorman off Amazon for 240.00". You hear about that anywhere? He says it's a pretty easy swap, but he's also in his 20's so ya might take that with a grain of salt. lol
When you drop that pan be sure to change the oil cooler gasket, and GM pan gasket is just slightly more than a felpro and they last a little bit longer....and be sure the pickup tube o-ring is in the pump box, and make sure it's the right thickness compared to the old one...there are a couple different sizes/colors (color not as important). That o-ring is the weak link of LS motors, capable of sending roller lifters and crankshafts to the boneyard at an early age.
OK, let me tackle this one at a time
On the TBSS intake, They seem to be good for 25-30HP, true, however, Joe at vinci cams suggests I stay with the truck intake to keep velocities high. He thinks I should not be aiming for total HP numbers, but rather for the "power under the curve" as he states it. He suggested I save the money from the TBSS conversion and spend it on a converter
Next, not dropping the pan. You tubes I have watched suggest just loosening the bolts enough to get the pan to droop in the front some to get a bit more access, then snugging it all back up afterward
I purchased a Chevy performance parts oil pump, which I think is actually just a stocker. It did not come with an O ring. The vids I have watched show everyone rotating the old pump off the pickup tube, then reversing the procedure to install the new one. Also, I would have to almost pull the engine to remove the pan as it sits just above that crossmember and the front differential. I am not going to do that. THis thing has already become a headache, I don't want to turn it into a migraine!
Now, I have a question for your friend (or anyone??) I noted that the timing chain which is pitifully small was very loose. So much so, that I could rotate the camshaft a little bit without moving the crankshaft! I believe it to be stretched. I observed later LS motors to have a cam chain tensioner, but this motor does not have one? I read somewhere that the LS truck motors were improved later on...I am wondering if the earlier blocks did not have the chain tensioner, and stretched chains, so the engineers added the chain tensioner later on??
-
Ryan, that 44k one looks nice. 226 on the other!! :rolleyes:
Sounds like a good plan so far. If you go wheels, because you want wider for sure, you could still do 17's and clear with a 3 inch lift (really just a level kit).
I probably went backwards with my intake, but I have a clearance issue with the elky hood. I now have an LS intake vs the truck 5.3 and a CTS pan.
Bumpers sound cool, can't wait to see em. What is you planned route for the trip?
Well, I'll be going out through Nebraska, then up the northern route to visit Pinedale, WY, Duane's hometown, then through??? to end up near Seattle where I'll see my son and the Tate, then drive south to possibly visit you, then include the denver CO area for a GLO sighting and SLC for one of the Daves, and then other locals if I figure out where folks are that are not too far off the beaten path where I can get in a quick visit...
Bumpers: Bear gave me a pic of the first redesign where he "Skinnied" up the thing he had and added some features I was asking for. We are doing a back and forth right now, and about to start on the rear bumper mods. I'll ask Bear if he minds me posting a pic or pics of the evolution of the thing...
-
Sounds like a nice drive, hitting a few parks too?
Nebraska, doesn't some OLD guy live out there?
-
Ryan, that 44k one looks nice. 226 on the other!! :rolleyes:
Sounds like a good plan so far. If you go wheels, because you want wider for sure, you could still do 17's and clear with a 3 inch lift (really just a level kit).
I probably went backwards with my intake, but I have a clearance issue with the elky hood. I now have an LS intake vs the truck 5.3 and a CTS pan.
Bumpers sound cool, can't wait to see em. What is you planned route for the trip?
Well, I'll be going out through Nebraska, then up the northern route to visit Pinedale, WY, Duane's hometown, then through??? to end up near Seattle where I'll see my son and the Tate, then drive south to possibly visit you, then include the denver CO area for a GLO sighting and SLC for one of the Daves, and then other locals if I figure out where folks are that are not too far off the beaten path where I can get in a quick visit...
Bumpers: Bear gave me a pic of the first redesign where he "Skinnied" up the thing he had and added some features I was asking for. We are doing a back and forth right now, and about to start on the rear bumper mods. I'll ask Bear if he minds me posting a pic or pics of the evolution of the thing...All this talk got me looking. Found a big boy with a big boy price... 8.1L
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/757834692/overview?aff=share_other
Ok, this one is a little better.
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/760367690/overview?aff=share_other
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd lock down that 8.1 in half a heartbeat.
496 cu in of Chevy big block power. Easily made into a 550-600 ft/lbs torque beast.
Think about it, if you buy new, how much are you paying extra for the treehugger stuff and the safety nazi stuff. You really want a SUV that backs itself into a parking space or one that has some creature comforts but still makes you feel like a man?
I no longer subscribe to the newer is better marketing brain washing. The old stuff, customized is W AAAA Y cooler than a $70K new piece that a techy hippie can buy (and never use)
I'm startin' the old is cool movement. Yea, well, partially because I'm old, but mostly because "Classic is fantastic"
-
Sounds like a nice drive, hitting a few parks too?
Nebraska, doesn't some OLD guy live out there?
yessir
-
Dad/pre-ranger adventure time
-
Sounds like a nice drive, hitting a few parks too?
Nebraska, doesn't some OLD guy live out there?
he just wants some of the good home cookin from me..... :beercheers:
-
There’s all kind of to visits between your house and Seattle, will be a great trip. Pinedale ain’t much, just another small Wyoming town, it’ll be worth seeing though simply because it’s Duane’s home town.
Friend of mine back home, goes there about once a month sometimes more depending on what the weather has destroyed.
Depending on the dates we may be up that way for a race weekend in Jackson, would be great be able to have a coffee with you guys.
-
If you make it close to Texas let me know. Otherwise I’ll have to plan a trip to the Tuck when I go to Memphis next time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I say........PARTY at GLO :grin:
-
I can make that work too ;-)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Pinedale is a pretty area, I recall driving thru there on way to Jackson hole....
-
Pinedale is a pretty area, I recall driving thru there on way to Jackson hole....
Yea that side of the state is nice mountain country. Lots of space to get away from people!
-
Sounds like a nice drive, hitting a few parks too?
Nebraska, doesn't some OLD guy live out there?
he just wants some of the good home cookin from me..... :beercheers:
You're on the list
You in Lincoln?
One of my cousins lives there...
-
I say........PARTY at GLO :grin:
Sounds good, I'll try and figure about when i should be in that AO and you boneheads can back plan...Or just stand fast and I'll put the miles on the burb to find ya!
-
OK with dirt packed under my fingernails, let me get this update done...
So like always, today's added value project is the mounting of a fire extinguisher.
It is going there, in the back
-
I pulled the cup holder, cut the bottom off, fashioned up an aluminum strap to contain it, pop-riveted it on and stuck it back in the hole...Done!
-
That fire killa' was a $20 item from HF
Then I checked the box the mailman left outside for the dogs to chew up
-
Justin sent me this AutoCal which I plugged in to EFI live on line. Turns out I had a current edition of the V8 software so I'm good to go to start that process.
-
Playing with my EFI now. Can't get several tunes I like much less stand alone V2 use.
-
So back to the job at hand, removal of that pesky oil pump pickup bolt, I had to go to the store to purchase a 3/8" universal which I then used to loosen that final oil pan bolt. I found that by removing the skid plates, I could just barely see the bolt from the bottom looking upward through the sway bar/radiator opening
And with that and some considerable effort, I got the bolt out!
-
Playing with my EFI now. Can't get several tunes I like much less stand alone V2 use.
Kali??
-
Next I pulled the oil pump
-
The circle highlights the O ring that is the key to life with this motor
The arrows show just how loose the chain is in this 96K motor. I don't know what is normal, every cam that was ever put in one of my hot rod LS motors was done professionally...
-
Then I pulled the timing gear and chain assembly, then the cam retainer, the lifter guides and the lifters
-
But I did not have enough room to pull the cam. The radiator will have to come out
Man, this is turning out to be quite a job...Makes me wonder when I will get into the rear ring and pinion bearings because they preload the cam position sensor or some crap like that!
-
I have the lifters and chain immersed in a bath of Mobil 1
-
I had to pull the rad, condenser and cut the rad support open on spartan
-
And I continued cleaning and painting stuff
Using more conventional paint products. I am getting over any and all John Deere products!
-
I had to pull the rad, condenser and cut the rad support open on spartan
Mine is so close its painful. I can get the camshaft almost all the way out. When the dowel pin hits radiator the very last journal is about half of the way out of the block. I really only need about 3/4" to get it out/new one in! GRRRRRRRRR.......
-
The pieces-parts are coming out pretty well so far
-
I painted up the block so it would be dry tomorrow when I start reassembly
-
And hit the frame and structural parts with rubberized undercoating while the area is uncluttered
-
All of that will look much better with new suspension parts adding some color.
So, I'd say I am in the early reassembly stage. With rain and snow coming, I'll use the closed in time to try and finish this
Next up:
-
And...
-
So at this point the table is about at max density of pieces-parts. I look forward to clearing that all off again!
-
I won't beat around the bush, your pan will leak now, but at least change the o-ring on that tube! Maybe a couple more exclamations for affect..
.....!!!!!!.....
Sorry, don't know about the tensioner...I thought the last ones I did (or paid the kid to do) had them. There's also a tsb on those iirc. I'll see if I can find it.
Scratch that on the TSB, but I did see where a company makes a tensioner that fits the older blocks, if your concerned about it. I assume you're changing the set? Oh wait, you're even reusing the water pump . :sarcastic&fired
I think they started using them because of noise. To be honest, I've never seen one jump teeth, or make noise. ..but if I had JR's money, I would replace the gear and chain. Do it right the first time!
-
I do believe that is an "I TOLD YOU SO" But what does Ken know anyway.
-
Don, that fire extinguisher is a bit or lots too small to be effective by the time you get to it.
-
Ya.... replace that timing set. Especially if your increasing valve spring pressure with that new cam.
As for your trip...schedule in extra time...that's often hail/twister season in the plains.
-
Yep, you have it off and they do have HD chains.
-
I say........PARTY at GLO :grin:
Sounds good, I'll try and figure about when i should be in that AO and you boneheads can back plan...Or just stand fast and I'll put the miles on the burb to find ya!
New house is supposed to be done sometime around then. As you get closer to the trip keep in touch, we’ll figure it out.
-
Hmm, I'll be in Idaho in May, hopefully. You can help me build a road...err I mean share some sweet tea under a shade tree.
-
Don you may be able to just loosen up the top of the rad and then pull it forward a tad to get the clearance you need. The bottom just rests in rubber grommets I believe.
And if you’re out in these parts, I’m in Vancouver WA, depending if you come i84 to hippieville (Portland) or up i82 to i90 into Seattle. Or maybe I can even plan a trip up north and we can all get together with Tate and Dawg.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
While you have those inner genders Wells our it looks like the body pinch welds could be smoothed out for tire clearance. Unless it’s been done and I can’t see
Slc is a great place and Utah is the Mecca for national parks. Pretty sure we have the most per state. Not verified
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I won't beat around the bush, your pan will leak now, but at least change the o-ring on that tube! Maybe a couple more exclamations for affect..
.....!!!!!!.....
Sorry, don't know about the tensioner...I thought the last ones I did (or paid the kid to do) had them. There's also a tsb on those iirc. I'll see if I can find it.
Scratch that on the TSB, but I did see where a company makes a tensioner that fits the older blocks, if your concerned about it. I assume you're changing the set? Oh wait, you're even reusing the water pump . :sarcastic&fired
I think they started using them because of noise. To be honest, I've never seen one jump teeth, or make noise. ..but if I had JR's money, I would replace the gear and chain. Do it right the first time!
Dag-nabit!
I sure didn't want to hear that...
Even if I tried to squeeze in a new pan gasket, I bet it would leak because other than pulling the engine, I don't see how it is possible to get enough clearance to be able to lay in a gasket like that without ganking up something. The separation was small, maybe 1/4" was all I could manage. I am obviously wrong, but I had not read of oil pan leaks if you put a dab of silicone on it where the pan/block/tim1ng cover all meet.
I don't need timing chain tension, nor really want it. I was really just noting that this earlier gen motor didn't have the device and I didn't like the slack. As for changing the parts, I purchased a new GM performance chain which is soaking in a bath of oil at the moment.
Thanks, Ken, I do appreciate your expert advice!
-
Don, that fire extinguisher is a bit or lots too small to be effective by the time you get to it.
Ah man!
-
Don, that fire extinguisher is a bit or lots too small to be effective by the time you get to it.
Ah man!
I have a 2.5 Halon under the center seat and a 2.5 standard in the bed. Love Halon, just getting $$$.
-
Suppose if you think about it....the engines is almost out now anyway true? Cam change,degree the cam/proper oil pan gasket replacement, and maybe a look see at the bearings.....you said you were going to put a converter in it anyway....its a LS you can bet it needs new rods. Just thinking out loud here. :cheesy:
-
Suppose if you think about it....the engines is almost out now anyway true? Cam change,degree the cam/proper oil pan gasket replacement, and maybe a look see at the bearings.....you said you were going to put a converter in it anyway....its a LS you can bet it needs new rods. Just thinking out loud here. :cheesy:
You know Don he is right. What 12 bolts and its out? Torque convert which was on the table anyway. No pan leak, easier assembly,,,,,,,,,,
-
Suppose if you think about it....the engines is almost out now anyway true? Cam change,degree the cam/proper oil pan gasket replacement, and maybe a look see at the bearings.....you said you were going to put a converter in it anyway....its a LS you can bet it needs new rods. Just thinking out loud here. :cheesy:
You know Don he is right. What 12 bolts and its out? Torque convert which was on the table anyway. No pan leak, easier assembly,,,,,,,,,,
Hmmmm, maybe you knuckleheads are onto something here
Look into the bottom end, drop in the 408", do the converter...
-
If you choose to do the pan, it's really not that hard. True, all of the diff bolts must be removed, but it drops far enough without complete removal, and is held up by the axles. The crossmember only takes 2 minutes to remove.
The only way that pan won't start leaking is if it's been changed before, and the rubber insert (aluminum gasket like the water pump's) is still soft ....usually isn't at 16 years old.
-
Where is my popcorn emoji....
Mission creep has begun....
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Where is my popcorn emoji....
Mission creep has begun....
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Just a normal fluid change,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
-
I have faith Don can get this 95% done no question. :grin:
But seriously.... Ken is spot on, LS pans leak if looked at cross eyed. I'd drop the diff, do it correctly....but if installing a converter anyway...just makes sense to pull it and get it squared away on a stand and drop it back in. Possibly less time consuming also.
Kays 2017 Stang we pulled the engine at 4000 miles... now talk about mission creep. What started as a simple swap of the 4 cams turned into a set of rods and a stroked crank an cnc ported heads and.....balance and blah blah. Engines out lets put in a better clutch.....ya get the idea. And we did that in our crude shop with no fancy boiler heat. I do have a shop couch however LoL
-
I’ll play contrarian. Given your time constraints.
Put some silicone on it slap it back together and drive it. It may leak but it won’t be the end of the world. Drive it on your trip and put some miles on it and then in a year pull it down and drop the stroker kit in it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Talking about a party pooper ^^^^
Since when did you become rational ?:)
-
On another note....don't you need a new push rod now Don?
-
On another note....don't you need a new push rod now Don?
I have a new set of chrome molly pushrods to replace the stockers
-
Yea, so, I'm going to have to drop the pan
The work was going along just fine until I started to try and put that bolt into the oil pickup tube. I tried so many different ways to get the bolt to thread through the collar with almost no room and not really able to see anything. I think I stayed on that one bolt from Roughly 1650 until I quit trying around 1930.
I just don't have any confidence that I can even get the pickup tube bolted up so along with the dire warnings from all of you smart folks, I'm going to do whatever I need to do to just pull the pan, bolt it all up, get the new gasket done and reinstalled correctly.
As for pulling the motor, its a bit more than just 12 bolts. I'd have to first bolt the wheels on, take it off jack stands, push it backward which means the garage door would be open, and that right there is a no go working in temps in the 20's, remove the hood, pull a very busy wiring harness and on and on. Easily a days work on either end, i.e. two more days tacked on.
So I'll take the 90% solution and rip the pan off. New gasket in the morning.
If I like this combo alot when I am done, I might just get away with a supercharger and call it done. I don't want to make a career over tearing it apart all the time and end up incomplete like SquareD
So right away, I pulled the radiator. I have the big 34" HD unit in this truck which is good. None larger made except for aftermarket. The fan shroud(s) will not be reused. I ordered a factory electric fan assembly to replace the mechanical stuff with.
-
The cam came right out with room to spare.
I did find a non stock additional transmission cooler sandwiched between the condenser and radiator which was sitting exactly where it needed to sit to interfere with the cam removal, but like I said, I squeaked by
-
New and old bumpsticks
-
I have used this Lucas assembly lube before. Super sticky stuff. Get it on your hands and good luck! I coated the cam liberally and slid it in the block
-
I'm using GM performance LS7 lifters and lifter trays. Stick the lifters into the guides (Flat on two sides for alignment) and slide them into the lifter bores
-
All buttoned up with new bolts
-
I purchased a new cam retainer from GM performance, installed the lock-tited bolts and torqued them into place
-
Then the cam gear, new chain and new hardware
-
So that Ken would be pleased, here is the new GM oil pump pickup tube O-Ring
-
I squirted some assembly lube into the dry GM performance oil pump, then after rotating it some, chased that with some fresh Mobil 1 and worked that back onto the crank snout
And that is when the wait-ah-minute bolt snagged me for the next almost 2.5 hours
After failing so many times, I threw in the towel and came inside, showered and cooked up some Crab cakes
Back at it in the morrow after cutting down a dangerous tree and sawing that critter up into boiler digestible pieces
-
I believe the hood has a "work" position built in (Ken). Undo the front bolt on the hood, point straight up and then that bolt will hold it vertical.
Good idea on the pan. I may have cleaned the block before all the new parts though.
-
Work position hugh?
Learn something new every day!
Off to cuttin' down a big ole dead Ash tree
Then back to the task at hand
-
Working with Brian (Bear9___) can't recall his number sequence... Working with him on the F/R bumper design
There have been changes to this, but here is the very first rendition of the Front:
And looking to add a grill guard arrangement similar to this:
-
And working on the rear bumper tire carrier arrangement for the axle/pivot
-
I'm wondering where I can get the springs re-arched??? without exorbitant shipping costs??
My brand new 4+1 silverado leaves are 64" and the Suburban has a 60" spring. With both springs having the axle centered, I would be moving the rear axle aft 2" by installing the silvy springs, and have to really look at the rear spring hanger.
All of that = Too much work. So rearch is the logical choice since the stockers are in great shape although have flattened some. Now, I do have 5,000 capacity airbags going in there, but I don't want the bags to carry the weight, just carry additional weight...
-
TRITON SPRINGS IN WALTON
-
TRITON SPRINGS IN WALTON
No friggin way!
How did I miss that?!?
-
TRITON SPRINGS IN WALTON
No friggin way!
How did I miss that?!?
Old? Failing eyesight? Early onset dimentia? :tongue:
-
TRITON SPRINGS IN WALTON
No friggin way!
How did I miss that?!?
Old? Failing eyesight? Early onset dimentia? :tongue:
Possibly...
-
Well, couldn't get to the Burb, really, was outside splitting up ash logs. Man that is a workout!
But I did get the small rear seat ripped out. Looking at mounting a 55-65 quart refrigerated cooler in that spot and getting some stuff stored behind that while still maintaining seats for two peeps in the second row.
-
Subject: Weight
I am being very weight conscious with this build, removing as much unnecessary stuff as is practical, and scrutinizing everything getting bolted back on.
I believe the stock burb weighs in at 5795 in 2500 dress with 37.5 gallons of fuel
Removed/Changed
Exhaust manifolds Replaced with lightweight headers *Weight reduction
Exhaust system Replaced with aftermarket system *Weight reduction
Front hitch *Weight reduction of 35 lbs
Removed third row seat Not Replaced *-100 pounds give or take
Removes second row seat To be replaced with a cooler of 37 lbs * small weight reduction
EGR system removed Not replaced - 4 pounds
Removed factory running boards To be replaced with electric folding steps *small weight reduction
Added rear storage drawers + 50 lbs
Still to come
Remove rear bumper Replace with steel unit + additional weight over stock
Remove rear tow hitch New hitch incorporated into bumper +/- weight trade off Net weight gain
Add tire carrier Removed factory tire carrier + Net weight gain
Upsized tires + Net weight gain
Remove front bumper/supports Replace with steel bumper + 100 pounds
Install winch + 60 lbs
Remove factory cooling fan/shroud Replace with electric fans *Small weight reduction
I think It will be a struggle to keep it around 6,000 pounds
Then
Add:
3 pax +650
Rooftop tent +150
can of gas +35
2 cans of water +90
Assorted camping gear +100
Baggage +40
Food/stuff in frig +25
Who knows what????????????
And I'm looking at a mission weight of 7,200-7,500
So the truck is rated at 8600 GWT so I am good there, so brakes should be effective, handling and so forth with the upgrades but fuel mileage will suffer. On a really good day these things can score 14 mpg, but that is not the norm. I'd say I may see a high of 13 on the highway as a best number and 11 more typical. Now throw in uran crawling and off roading and I think I should plan for around 10 mpg and no more.
The big unknown is the increase in efficiency from the cam and tune. I am adding almost a point in compression which will help fuel economy. And the cam will be making a bunch more torque by 2,000 RPM which may translate into some saved drops of gas. But on the flip side a lot of driving at 75 mph with a lifted truck with a boxy roof tent (Read parasitic drag) and I have killed anything I may have gained.
Just thinking out loud here...
-
Dont know that the pre rangers want to sit right next to each other for long road trips.
Have you thought about putting captains chairs, or two more front seats in the back and have the cooler in the middle?
-
I think the captain chairs are way more comfortable.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
For the upcoming trip, there are only me and the two boys going so seating is perfect.
In the future, maybe two captain chairs if there is still room for a cooler between the seats.
I plan n the cooler being a semi-permanent installation.
Believe it or not, getting that single seat out of there was not easy. It fought me all the way out of the door
-
I'm curious to see how you fare economy wise. I think the best I've seen in mine was on a road trip to Idaho where I did a whole tanks worth on the highway and got 12mpg. Lol. That's on a 34" tire with stock gears and no tune though.
-
Are you getting a second battery for the fridge? That will draw all night. My little seat cooler killed my batteries in a day!
As for mileage, I had 285's on mine and got 16mpg driving 65mph like a baby. Hope the mods help with that.
3 maybe 4 can sleep inside if you must. Hvae you done the front seat mod for full reclining? 10 min job.
Go synthectic rope on the winch, good weight savings there. Plus you can always double up the line for pulling power with a good snatch rope/strap making up for the length. (Nate)
-
https://youtu.be/kVidSOKwEJg
something like this. The guy in the video put a second right side folding section which is nice because they'll fold flat. Or you can put front seats in the back which will allow you to add seat heaters and make them power adjustable.
Very civilized
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tahoe-Yukon-Sierra-Silverado-Suburban-Seats-Leather-TAN-2003-2004-2005-2006-522/153303734871?hash=item23b19d5a57:g:5bIAAOSwpppcFAFb:rk:23:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tahoe-Yukon-Sierra-Silverado-Suburban-Seats-Leather-SHALE-2003-2004-2005-2006/264127004437?fits=Year%3A2005&hash=item3d7f323f15:g:ynwAAOSwBMpcNlu9
-
From the trips I have done I use the Edgestar unit and had no problems, I second the second battery. If you buy a good portable fridge then the power draw is very low and most have voltage shut off to prevent battery drain but always better safe than sorry. You can always get one of the little portable battery packs that you can leave in the glove box for emergency, they work very well.
Your rig will be heavy just get used to that my RC (the one that got rolled) was 7K with nothing in it and 3/4 tank of fuel, if you figure once you get Tools, recovery equipment, camping equipment, spare tire(s), winch, spare water/fuel it adds up real fast.
One thing to pay attention too is tire weight, I heard so of you mention General tires why I never even considered them is they are normally 10-15 lbs heavier than any other comparable unit of the same size. Tirerack.com is a real good resource to compare the specs for most of the name brand tires at least the one they carry
-
I'm curious to see how you fare economy wise. I think the best I've seen in mine was on a road trip to Idaho where I did a whole tanks worth on the highway and got 12mpg. Lol. That's on a 34" tire with stock gears and no tune though.
That's encouraging! The timing is not there in a stock tune, although there is a goodly amount of torque there in a stocker at 2,000 RPM.
Compression is way good to increase efficiency and the cam timing is everything. 114 centerline 4 degrees advanced is all about bringing in power early and keeping it at a lower RPM.
Now, I'm interested in your choice of a 34" tire...
I am just not settled with going to only a 33" or 32.5" 285R75-16 size. I'd much rather go up to a 295 or a 305 (34"-35") tire to bet the axle a bit more up and away from rocks without going crazy and getting a TTT (too-tall truck)...
-
What type of mounting system does your roof top ten have? Are you going to be building a rack for the top of the superburban?
Can you build some sort of aerodynamics to the roof/tent/rack?
Fast search on EBay showed lots of captain chairs available for the burb but mostly newer models. I know the front seats in the older style and up o the 2010 didn’t cross over but the center sections did.
I have noted over the years the wider tire causes more weight. I never have had a logical reason to run a 12.50 tire but I do. I might suggest a more narrow tire for all the street driving this might see in the future. And than might be worth a change after your long road trip.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
The wider tire will keep you out of semi truck grooves on the highway. Biggest complaint I have with wife’s 4Runner is the pizza cutters that come stock.....
-
What type of mounting system does your roof top ten have? Are you going to be building a rack for the top of the superburban?
Can you build some sort of aerodynamics to the roof/tent/rack?
Fast search on EBay showed lots of captain chairs available for the burb but mostly newer models. I know the front seats in the older style and up o the 2010 didn’t cross over but the center sections did.
I have noted over the years the wider tire causes more weight. I never have had a logical reason to run a 12.50 tire but I do. I might suggest a more narrow tire for all the street driving this might see in the future. And than might be worth a change after your long road trip.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yea, you have me second guessing with the captain chair comments you and Tex made. But I don't physically need the extra seat for this upcoming trip and I do need the space for a cooler, so for now the cooler wins out.
Tire size: I am focusing on height all the while knowing wider tires cost one in added drag (Fuel). So my selections are really running in the 33/34 11.00 tire sizing, not 12.50's which look good but are really not necessary
-
Roof top tents clamp on the side rails. Now my suburban has aluminum beams running front to back, anchored in four places. Them alone would easily carry the weight, but I want more of a configurable system. Therefore I plan to layer two sections of extruded aluminum longitudinally and join them with some cross beams. I want to allow space for the tent, but capture the space ahead of that up toward the windshield for gear stowage. I may bolt on the pioneer gear and jack up there this time. Only thing I don't like about that is adding weight up high when working off camber situations. But I plan to add some weight to the belly as well, another fuel tank and a battery.
I'm not doing anything for aerodynamics, unless some forward facing roof mounted lights provide air straightenin'
-
Do you remember the older ski racks? I remember they had a little fun on them similar to what the semi trucks have to direct airflow but lights work as well
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190113/4989d160be3d3922f8e5e186dc29e3ba.jpg)
I guess the thought I had was a windshield similar angle on the front of the rack, the tent top things we have running around here are boxy looking
That was my thought is all
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I've seen that
I don't think mine will be as clean looking. The basket in front of the tent will have camp chairs and a table strapped in. Nothing neat about any of that...
-
I don’t know how you feel about changing wheels but with the smaller lift you’re talking about a 285/75/17 might be worth a look.
Prices in that size range are also not outrageous. I was happy with these Coopers in 285/70/17 on H2 wheels.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Cooper&tireModel=Discoverer+AT3+XLT&partnum=875SR7DAXLT&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
(https://i.imgur.com/DneY3J4.png)
Come to think of it, I still have those 5 H2 wheels in my shed and nothing to mount them on.....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I don’t know how you feel about changing wheels but with the smaller lift you’re talking about a 285/75/17 might be worth a look.
Prices in that size range are also not outrageous. I was happy with these Coopers in 285/70/17 on H2 wheels.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Cooper&tireModel=Discoverer+AT3+XLT&partnum=875SR7DAXLT&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
(https://i.imgur.com/DneY3J4.png)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I haven't decided on the whole lift/tire size thing yet. Those Coopers are AT's. I need something much more aggressive than those. My farm alone will challenge the best of tires...
-
For some reason I thought I read you were going to a less aggressive tire for your trip. BFG mud terrains come in that size. https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=Mud-Terrain+T%2FA+KM2&partnum=875QR7KM2RWLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
For some reason I thought I read you were going to a less aggressive tire for your trip. BFG mud terrains come in that size. https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=Mud-Terrain+T%2FA+KM2&partnum=875QR7KM2RWLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Know em well...That's the tire I have on my D-Max truck
-
So, I'm finding enough stuff to do with the motor and the engine bay, that I threw in the towel and decided to yank the motor out of the engine bay. Started with unbolting the AC pump and bungeeing it out of the way
-
Then came the lower transmission to converter cover which required me to remove the front driveshaft.
Like I said earlier, the cam bone is connected to the rear axle bones somehow...We are seeing the evidence here!
-
I had to pull the starter to be able to remove the torque converter bolts which I did with reckless abandon
-
Good call on pulling motor
-
I removed the remaining six transmission to block bolts, along with the motor mount fasteners and the remaining wiring harness connections. All that is currently holding the block in place is gravity.
The engine crane is not in my garage and like I always say, if you own a John Deere tractor it is likely broken down. Mine is, again, and in the shop where it has been most of its life, where I can't use it to move a couple hundred pound engine crane so I can use that. But the good news is that I still get to make payments on the thing although it is seldom if ever used!
-
Good call on pulling motor
I hope so!
That darned friend of yours, Ken keeps pushin' me! ;-))
-
And speakin' of the Ken, he goaded me into buying a new water pump. So I did. And covered it with some shiny clear paint that is specially designed to quickly yellow and peel off!
-
Have most of the parts prepped for reassembly and stackin' up!
-
Ran across this very worn bump stop. Seems the suspension has been riding on it quite a bit, wouldn't you say? The other side is worse!
-
And the list just keeps getting longer!
-
So as soon as I can figure out how to trade that Deere in on a jap, Indian, Korean, or even russian tractor, I'll be able to do some yankin'!
-
We use to mount our roof top tent as close to the windshield as we could. Your already punching that hole in the air with the nose/windshield...the tent cost very little if anything economy wise in that location. We mounted it on the rear more on one trip...you could feel it up there, and mileage suffered.
The 35" Generals cost us no mileage penalty compared to the 35" bfg all terrain (junk tires IMHO) on Boozer....that said, I agree they are heavier. (more sidewall) a FWIW thing.
I'd plan on 10mpg Don....if it does better, celebrate. Most folks I know with 3/4 ton Burbs generally consider above 10mpg a bonus/happy moment. At least at freeway speeds 75mph ish.
Looking good so far......
I am too low tech for a fridge lol.... toss some block ice in the yeti and I a good for 4 or 5 days.
-
I removed the remaining six transmission to block bolts, along with the motor mount fasteners and the remaining wiring harness connections. All that is currently holding the block in place is gravity.
The engine crane is not in my garage and like I always say, if you own a John Deere tractor it is likely broken down. Mine is, again, and in the shop where it has been most of its life, where I can't use it to move a couple hundred pound engine crane so I can use that. But the good news is that I still get to make payments on the thing although it is seldom if ever used!
It’s a short block right? Pre rangers on one side, you on other a 2x4 and a chain. Pick it out of there.... :popcorn:
I agree, couple gallon milk jugs of solid ice in a yeti are the ticket. As long as you have another cooler for drinks.
-
I removed the remaining six transmission to block bolts, along with the motor mount fasteners and the remaining wiring harness connections. All that is currently holding the block in place is gravity.
The engine crane is not in my garage and like I always say, if you own a John Deere tractor it is likely broken down. Mine is, again, and in the shop where it has been most of its life, where I can't use it to move a couple hundred pound engine crane so I can use that. But the good news is that I still get to make payments on the thing although it is seldom if ever used!
It’s a short block right? Pre rangers on one side, you on other a 2x4 and a chain. Pick it out of there.... :popcorn:
I agree, couple gallon milk jugs of solid ice in a yeti are the ticket. As long as you have another cooler for drinks.
I took 1gallon jugs put 3/4 cup of table salt in and finished filling up with water, it freezes at a much lower temp, stays colder longer. Used them in my Lifetime products cooler all summer long in the back of the truck for fluids for the crew. Changed them out once a week and it still kept drinks cold. Frozen on day one
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Don, just use your mower to punt the engine hoist into the garage. Set the back of the hoist on the front, strap it down, and motor on to LQ4 removal....bliss.
-
Oh snap. Here we go....mission creep.
If this one winds up in the garage covered in dust in 3 years maybe I’ll buy this one ...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I second, wait 3rd now, on pulling the motor. Has to be someone nearby with a picker. Dang they are under $150 new and always handy when a tractor won't fit.
I would go with the 285/295 75 17s in the cooper STT. Once you go past 17's the prices go crazy.
Cooler may not be a bad idea. Lifetime make a 50qt cooler now that is just $97 at wally. Might fit in there just right and even uses a hose fitting for the drain (yep, been eyeing them) Couple blocks of ice, some jugs and you are good for a week. Blocks are easy to find and can freeze the jugs when you get a tel for a shower and such. Plus you have all that extra water on tap :wink:
Keep the uptop load simple and light. Store all the chairs and such inside when you drive, can always take em out when you sleep.
Do the front seats fully recline?
Mission Creep, was there ever a doubt :beercheers:
-
I'm curious to see how you fare economy wise. I think the best I've seen in mine was on a road trip to Idaho where I did a whole tanks worth on the highway and got 12mpg. Lol. That's on a 34" tire with stock gears and no tune though.
That's encouraging! The timing is not there in a stock tune, although there is a goodly amount of torque there in a stocker at 2,000 RPM.
Compression is way good to increase efficiency and the cam timing is everything. 114 centerline 4 degrees advanced is all about bringing in power early and keeping it at a lower RPM.
Now, I'm interested in your choice of a 34" tire...
I am just not settled with going to only a 33" or 32.5" 285R75-16 size. I'd much rather go up to a 295 or a 305 (34"-35") tire to bet the axle a bit more up and away from rocks without going crazy and getting a TTT (too-tall truck)...
They're actually 315/70/17's, so 34.4" tall. I picked them specifically to stop the rubbing that I was having with 35x12.5s.
-
Don, just use your mower to punt the engine hoist into the garage. Set the back of the hoist on the front, strap it down, and motor on to LQ4 removal....bliss.
Funny, but I was looking at exactly that, wondering if that zero turn had enough traction to get the hoist pulled onto concrete. Snow covered for the moment, so iffy at best. But I'm going to try something in the morrow.
-
Disassemble it into 4 pcs and walk it into the garage? :rolleyes:
-
I second, wait 3rd now, on pulling the motor. Has to be someone nearby with a picker. Dang they are under $150 new and always handy when a tractor won't fit.
I would go with the 285/295 75 17s in the cooper STT. Once you go past 17's the prices go crazy.
Cooler may not be a bad idea. Lifetime make a 50qt cooler now that is just $97 at wally. Might fit in there just right and even uses a hose fitting for the drain (yep, been eyeing them) Couple blocks of ice, some jugs and you are good for a week. Blocks are easy to find and can freeze the jugs when you get a tel for a shower and such. Plus you have all that extra water on tap :wink:
Keep the uptop load simple and light. Store all the chairs and such inside when you drive, can always take em out when you sleep.
.
Do the front seats fully recline?
Mission Creep, was there ever a doubt :beercheers:
I second, wait 3rd now, on pulling the motor. Has to be someone nearby with a picker. Dang they are under $150 new and always handy when a tractor won't fit.
Looking at dragging the thing uphill and into the garage tomorrow. I need to get that thing out so I can put it back in. Really want to be as done as I'm gonna be on the motor so I have a couple months remaining to do everything else before launch time
I would go with the 285/295 75 17s in the cooper STT. Once you go past 17's the prices go crazy.
Thinking I may want to stay in the 16" sizing to give a taller sidewall with the corresponding better ride. Also cheapest tires I think. Jury is still out on that, but 285 maybe, 295 better is what I'm thinking.
Cooler may not be a bad idea. Lifetime make a 50qt cooler now that is just $97 at wally. Might fit in there just right and even uses a hose fitting for the drain (yep, been eyeing them) Couple blocks of ice, some jugs and you are good for a week. Blocks are easy to find and can freeze the jugs when you get a tel for a shower and such. Plus you have all that extra water on tap :wink:
Block of ice or frozen water jugs all take up room. I want an electric cooler with all space useable
Keep the uptop load simple and light. Store all the chairs and such inside when you drive, can always take em out when you sleep.
Plan to keep it light up there. Camp chairs are what, 2-3 pounds ea.? Camp table less than 10 pounds amd a good cap over the chairs to avoid excess sun
Do the front seats fully recline?
Not fully, maybe a 45?? Haven't pushed them to find out
-
I like 16” tires.....
-
Oh, those bumps have a lot to do with the front suspension. Stock trucks ride on those so when you lift you are running off the torsion bars alone. Good tires and shocks (bilstien 5100) you will be golden.
To fix the front seat recline there is a small collar on the powered screw you remove. Cut both sides with a Dremel and hit a cut with a chisel and it will pop off. You now have full reclining seats!
-
Was just going to mention that they do ride on the bump stops stock, like JR said. It's a Chevy thing.
-
https://www.edgestar.com/fp630-spacious-edgestar-portable-refrigerator-freezer/FP630.html
this is the one I have, it has never given me a problem, it will run 12V or 120 not too heavy, the latches are a little wimpy but do the job.
-
I like 16” tires.....
Like these Sean?
-
I like 16” tires.....
Like these Sean?
Is that Ken? Maybe he’s downsizing vehicles so H can’t ride along....
And yes, got it should have stated wheels not tires.... everyone is a critic! :wink:
-
https://www.edgestar.com/fp630-spacious-edgestar-portable-refrigerator-freezer/FP630.html
this is the one I have, it has never given me a problem, it will run 12V or 120 not too heavy, the latches are a little wimpy but do the job.
Not bad Phil. just under 30 pounds and 63 quarts! I like it.
But, now I am told it will be stored on the back deck area.
Momma took one look at the missing seat and said to put it back
Not going to fight city hall, so the cooler goes aft! We can take it out when its beddy-bye time.
-
If you add a composting toilet you'd have a RV that looks like a SUV with a cam :grin:
got that engine out yet?
-
https://www.edgestar.com/fp630-spacious-edgestar-portable-refrigerator-freezer/FP630.html
this is the one I have, it has never given me a problem, it will run 12V or 120 not too heavy, the latches are a little wimpy but do the job.
Not bad Phil. just under 30 pounds and 63 quarts! I like it.
But, now I am told it will be stored on the back deck area.
Momma took one look at the missing seat and said to put it back
Not going to fight city hall, so the cooler goes aft! We can take it out when its beddy-bye time.
That will be less than ideal, it nice to have it close when traveling and once you load it up with food it’s not light any more. But the commander has spoken!
-
https://www.edgestar.com/fp630-spacious-edgestar-portable-refrigerator-freezer/FP630.html
this is the one I have, it has never given me a problem, it will run 12V or 120 not too heavy, the latches are a little wimpy but do the job.
Not bad Phil. just under 30 pounds and 63 quarts! I like it.
But, now I am told it will be stored on the back deck area.
Momma took one look at the missing seat and said to put it back
Not going to fight city hall, so the cooler goes aft! We can take it out when its beddy-bye time.
Don, why not best of both worlds? Momma ain’t coming on the mens trip. Pull seat, wire with quick disconnect and removable mount. Pull fridge when at home and not needed. Pull seat and install when heading out....
-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-SUBURBAN-YUKON-ESCALADE-TAHOE-2ND-ROW-SEAT-Second-captain-Right-chevy-/153339146072
left is from the same seller, same price. put the fridge in the middle permanently like.
-
Can you just continue on as planned and ignore it? Just keep that door shut or something or tell her you’ll get to it after you mow the grass
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Can you just continue on as planned and ignore it? Just keep that door shut or something or tell her you’ll get to it after you mow the grass
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Better to ask for forgiveness than permission?
-
^^ it works. Once.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I have gotten away with it. “ I forgot”
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-SUBURBAN-YUKON-ESCALADE-TAHOE-2ND-ROW-SEAT-Second-captain-Right-chevy-/153339146072
left is from the same seller, same price. put the fridge in the middle permanently like.
Tate, wrong color, but I like that
Local pickup only... Dallas is a long drive. I was struggling with Michigan to pick up a FF 14 bolt...
-
Can you just continue on as planned and ignore it? Just keep that door shut or something or tell her you’ll get to it after you mow the grass
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think that way too!
-
So, gonna be side tracked for a bit, unexpected wife in the hospital...surgery event.
But I can order parts. Motor would have been out today had it not been for the surprise morning. Since its out we were talking about the converter.
Now I have read some on this and it seems the stock stall speed converter is about perfect for this motor, speaking of the broader and flatter torque curve of the LQ4
Now having said that, I have messed with the factory recipe a bunch with the torquey cam and the higher compression 243 heads.
Converters are all about matching up to the engine's torque curve. The LS motors tend to have the torque come on higher that the old SBC. The old school chebby liked 1200-1300 RPM a lot, but an LS motor would get killed by that low of a stall. In car apps, the LS likes 2500RPM, but if you pick a stall speed more than cruise RPM which seems to be 2100-2200RPM then it will be doing some slipping and gas mileage would suffer.
I think shooting for a stall speed of around 2600RPM would have put me safely into the big torque zone, but that would be well above cruising RPM.
So the part I do not understand is the effect a lockup converter has vs the stall speed. If the converter locked up (Locked out the slippery stuff) in 4th, then I'd be fine with a 2600 stall to get me starting out power but still enjoy the best range per gallon at cruise.
What say ye?
-
They have always been a mystery to me too, but learning. True with LU there should be no slippage and less heat. But depending on tune and the converter stall it could unlock a the slightest peddle pressure.
21-22 sounds high for a cruise RPM, should be under 2k with OD.
-
Jeep xj guys sometimes wire in a switch to manually lock up the torque converter in the aw transmissions. That could be an option on here? That'd let you run whatever stall speed you want, and lock up the TC when you want.
-
So, gonna be side tracked for a bit, unexpected wife in the hospital...surgery event.
Hope your wife is doing ok. Unexpected surgery is never a good thing.
-
Don.... without going into a book length explanation, I'd not mess with the converter personally for your intended goals stall wise. I might consider a more robust replacement to handle the extra load you will be putting on it though.
-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-SUBURBAN-YUKON-ESCALADE-TAHOE-2ND-ROW-SEAT-Second-captain-Right-chevy-/153339146072
left is from the same seller, same price. put the fridge in the middle permanently like.
Tate, wrong color, but I like that
Local pickup only... Dallas is a long drive. I was struggling with Michigan to pick up a FF 14 bolt...
Jumping the gun on the selection, but the suggestion was more important for the concept. I have them in the Yukon and love them... when it was running;-)
-
Norm is right, upgrade to a better vs the cookie cutter stock. Would have better cutches too.
Wife doing OK? Prayers sent.
Get my PM back, seems it went to Charles?
-
"Dear Lord, please grant rapid healing and flawless surgery for Mrs. H - In Jesus name amen!"
I'm off site for a short while and suddenly there's an engine out, Mrs. H is in the Hospital, and there's blasphemous talk of something along the lines of a Tac-topper........SMH! :facepalm:
-
Yea, so I've been at the hospital for most of two days now. She had an angioplasty but they found no significant blockages, So this is quite a mystery. She can't walk ten feet to a bathroom without getting winded like she just climbed a hill. Something definitely way wrong. She is still admitted and tomorrow morning a contrast CT scan followed by what they described to us tonight as a very extensive lung workup. Man I just don't know, but you can't believe how small and insignificant that Burb just became in my life. I'll get back to it when I know she is OK.
-
Don.... without going into a book length explanation, I'd not mess with the converter personally for your intended goals stall wise. I might consider a more robust replacement to handle the extra load you will be putting on it though.
OK, Norm, I feel you are saying stay around the stock stall range but go to a more robust unit.
I was looking around and a company called Monster transmissions makes a towing/RV converter which is assembled from better parts and adds a small 300RPM stall increase and there is the part I do not understand, They say it is lockup compatible. Seems to me a converter is either lockup or not.
I think I might give them a call if I ever get done with the hospital and tell them what I am doing and get their recommendations.
-
They have always been a mystery to me too, but learning. True with LU there should be no slippage and less heat. But depending on tune and the converter stall it could unlock a the slightest peddle pressure.
21-22 sounds high for a cruise RPM, should be under 2k with OD.
Well, of course, I have only driven it a few times, but yea, with the 245 tire and the 4.10 gears I was hummin' along at a bit over 2100 while cruising. I usually motor along pretty much exactly on 70
-
"Dear Lord, please grant rapid healing and flawless surgery for Mrs. H - In Jesus name amen!"
I'm off site for a short while and suddenly there's an engine out, Mrs. H is in the Hospital, and there's blasphemous talk of something along the lines of a Tac-topper........SMH! :facepalm:
Stuff happens quick around here
Thanks for the Prayer Mike!
-
This is the one I have been eyeballing:
https://www.monstertransmission.com/4L80E-Torque-Converter-1800-2000-Stall-Heavy-Duty-Torque-Converter_p_4861.html
-
Yea, so I've been at the hospital for most of two days now. She had an angioplasty but they found no significant blockages, So this is quite a mystery. She can't walk ten feet to a bathroom without getting winded like she just climbed a hill. Something definitely way wrong. She is still admitted and tomorrow morning a contrast CT scan followed by what they described to us tonight as a very extensive lung workup. Man I just don't know, but you can't believe how small and insignificant that Burb just became in my life. I'll get back to it when I know she is OK.
Prayers sent for you all. Not knowing is very hard.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Praying for the missus, Don.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
May God’s healing hands work through her doctors and rejuvenate her body to better than it was before being hospitalized. Peace be with you and yours while you go through this trying time.
-
Praying for you and especially the missus, Big D. May God grant her doctors the wisdom to discover the issue, and the knowledge to fix it.
-
Thanks all-
The end of day three and we know that a whole lot of things/parts in and of her are in really good working order. But having said that, she cannot walk to the bathroom and back without looking like she just ran the 440. More testing tomorrow...Poor kid...
-
Hate to hear that Chief. Y’all have prayers coming from Alabama.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Hate to hear that Chief. Y’all have prayers coming from Alabama.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We appreciate it
-
Thanks for the update Don.
-
Just gonna put this out there, and we won’t tell her but..... that pretty lady right there is WAY out of your league
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Just gonna put this out there, and we won’t tell her but..... that pretty lady right there is WAY out of your league
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is why the seat goes back in!
-
Just gonna put this out there, and we won’t tell her but..... that pretty lady right there is WAY out of your league
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is why the seat goes back in!
This is a very true statement.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Sending prayers your way big D
-
The dr have any idea of direction to look for?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Just gonna put this out there, and we won’t tell her but..... that pretty lady right there is WAY out of your league
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is why the seat goes back in!
^^^^^!
-
CT w/ contrast come back yet?
-
OK, update
We had the final lung CT scan today and that too showed nothing abnormal. So we have established a whole lot of things that are well within limits. But she is still getting very winded from doing about nothing at all.
Yea, she may be a bit out of my league, but, hey, the pilots get lucky every once in awhile!
Her blood pressure today was a high of 90/60 and a low of 78/58. I have personally never seen blood pressures that low in anybody. But having exhausted all tests they let her go home. Hell I don't know what to do. She is obviously sick, but they can't find a good reason so they are done with the in hospital stuff. Maybe that's OK, but she insists she is going back to work and it's like fighting city hall getting her to slow down on anything.
#frustratedhusband
-
Don, my mamma has low BP as well.
Not always that low but I have saw those before and was floored too.
If she breaks 100 she’s having a bad day.
Hope there is something found, getting winded doing nothing is no fun.
-
Lose the keys to the GJ. We know hiding half of each pair of her shoes won't work.
-
Feel stupid asking Don, but have they ruled out something with the bloods ability to carry oxygen? Sometimes it’s the obvious we forget to look for. Continued prayers-
-
My wife and daughter have the same BP.
I would think O2 content/transfer too, almost like COPD that my mom had. 95%+ at rest, down to 80 when she moved around but she smoked for 40 years.
Time for a specialist!
-
She will still be in our prayers Don.
Not to take away from what she's going through, but I found out that I have the almost exact BP. Yesterday went in for routine visit, and was 92/60. My wife checked last night and it was 80, this morning it was 72. I'm like WTH. Difference is, I feel perfectly fine. ... always been 120ish .
-
Continued prayers from us too, Chief. Same as others here, my wife runs 80s/60s or so, regularly. Run a half marathon still under 100. Please keep us all updated. She will be covered in prayer for a good long while.
-
Thank you all and thanks from her as well. Wonderful to get support from so many good people!
She is home, and it is both the anniversary of the start of Desert Storm and the night our middle daughter was born. We sang happy birthday and ate some cake. My thoughts were half a world away...Wow, what a night!
-
So, let me bring us back to the build of this Suburban.
Tonight I used the Autocal to collect the stock tune from the Burb's computer. I sent that file to Black Bear Performance. For those who are tuning and making big engine changes concurrently like I am, he will build a file just to get you running and ballparked. Afterward we have to log data, download that file and send it back to him for the necessary adjustments.
I am very much looking forward to this process and to see what this man can do to dial in this cool old Suburban.
-
I'd plan on 10mpg Don....if it does better, celebrate. Most folks I know with 3/4 ton Burbs generally consider above 10mpg a bonus/happy moment. At least at freeway speeds 75mph ish.
On our cross country trips in a 2500 Yukon XL running 285/75/16 w electric fans, we get 15.5 mpg at 70 MPH.
-
I'd plan on 10mpg Don....if it does better, celebrate. Most folks I know with 3/4 ton Burbs generally consider above 10mpg a bonus/happy moment. At least at freeway speeds 75mph ish.
On our cross country trips in a 2500 Yukon XL running 285/75/16 w electric fans, we get 15.5 mpg at 70 MPH.
Very encouraging!
I remember a nice little bump in my H2 when I replaced that gynormous clutch fan with electric fans...
Are you stock height with the 285's?
-
No, the front is leveled with kryptonite upper control arms. The rear is stock. Oh and its Black Bear live tuned
-
Black Bear sounds like a solid tuner. Have a trip this weekend and will have to call him when I get back.
Are you doing a multi tune Don or just 1 tune?
-
Black Bear sounds like a solid tuner. Have a trip this weekend and will have to call him when I get back.
Are you doing a multi tune Don or just 1 tune?
I think we will settle in on just a single although evolving tune.
I say evolving, because I will start with something to get the thing just running
Then, according to Justin's system, I will record while driving and send that to him. From that he will be able to tighten up the shot group and get a good tune established. Subsequent to that, he retunes whenever required.
I see a changed needed for possible:
Tire size change
Addition of another intake manifold???
larger shortblock???
Supercharger???
gear ratio change???
and things like that.
They are friendly and helpful people with years of tuning experience on this motor.
-
No, the front is leveled with kryptonite upper control arms. The rear is stock. Oh and its Black Bear live tuned
I wonder if we could get a couple pics of your truck. good baseline vehicle IMO. Leveled, 285's, tuned...
-
Kind of late on my part but Prayers for the family Don
-
Kind of late on my part but Prayers for the family Don
Thanks
So she is home, but something is very wrong, but we don't know what it is yet. Appointments are now scattered beyond the first week of Feb. On a positive note the youngest Pre-Ranger just won 1st place at the regional championship meet today. He will wrestle for the state championship in the 123lb class at the next meet!!!!!!!!!
He looks like he came out of a biker bar proclaiming fairies ride Harleys. Eye, cheek, temple, chin all cut/scraped/bruised. The bruiser came home, ate something and went to bed before seven PM!
-
OK, should be able to get back to work on the Burb tomorrow. Supposed to be a snow day, so some light wood splitting and stacking then on to yankin' the motor
Purchased the wheels tonight. 4 Wheel Parts had too good to pass up deal on the old trusty Pro-Comp 1069's. I did compromise just a bit and purchased a 17 X 9 wheel because i may stand up to a 35 inch tire later on and want a tad less sidewall for handling. Walked away with five wheels tax + shipping (free) for $479
I almost purchased the tires but I am not decided on the size yet. I am leaning heavily on a 285/75 or a 295/70, both of which are 33" tall. THe latter being 12" wide and the 285, 11" wide. Either would fit the 9" wheel, although the 295 a bit better. Dick Cepek has a $200 off for purchase of 4 special now at 4-wheel...
-
I will do something with the wheel to protect it, painting, anodizing, coating, holy oil, something.
-
Don, are you in an area that has ticks? I live in Maine and we are overrun with ticks and have many cases of Lyme disease. Those buggers will mess you up. I have a co-worker that has been dealing with it. Dizziness, memory issues, hard breathing after climbing stairs, etc. Good heart had checked out fine which then lead them down the path of Lyme. Just a thought.
-
Don, are you in an area that has ticks? I live in Maine and we are overrun with ticks and have many cases of Lyme disease. Those buggers will mess you up. I have a co-worker that has been dealing with it. Dizziness, memory issues, hard breathing after climbing stairs, etc. Good heart had checked out fine which then lead them down the path of Lyme. Just a thought.
Now that's interesting
Tics, yes, lots of them. I never get them but the dogs do, and sometimes the Mrs and the kids.
Very interesting...
-
I believe there is a country song that follows that line “ I wanna check you for ticks”
Good wheel choice, I think they had a black wheel option vs the polished aluminum. Not sure if the black would be easier to re finish? Or if it meet the price point. 17x9 is the same wheel I have run for years. Works well
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
we got a set of 18x9s for the kaiser that are anodized aluminum with 8 bullerholes in it. really clean and simple. pretty sure they’re Ion 170B. i’ll see if i can find a pic of just the rims
-
Tick born illnesses present in strange ways. That’s worth looking into. They checked me for all kinda of stuff related to ticks last summer when I went down. I was surprised to see how many different tick born illnesses there were.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
my dad got rocky mountain spotted fever from one maybe 15 years ago. put him down real hard. and i had a buddy in school (forestry major.. so lots of woods time) who got lyme disease and can’t eat anything that walks on the ground (has to swim or fly..) or he reacts badly to it. alphagal i think it’s called.
-
I believe there is a country song that follows that line “ I wanna check you for ticks”
Good wheel choice, I think they had a black wheel option vs the polished aluminum. Not sure if the black would be easier to re finish? Or if it meet the price point. 17x9 is the same wheel I have run for years. Works well
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Same wheel I have on my D-Max since 2012.
They will not stay bare aluminum. Plan to paint them, thought the straight up aluminum would be easiest to etch prior to paint.
-
I think you should have purchased a newer platform.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190120/0ca4abc828e9b96db6e8b576e12fb821.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
This van has the Nissan Cummins motor, seating for 12 and 4x4, the tires on it are 35x12.50/18. It was actually a decent looking rig really
Plus the roof tent, rear tire rack and so forth.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
This van has the Nissan Cummins motor, seating for 12 and 4x4, the tires on it are 35x12.50/18. It was actually a decent looking rig really
Plus the roof tent, rear tire rack and so forth.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dave, did they have a price on that thing? Had to have been through the roof. The titan with that engine is ridiculous.
-
& Tate was claiming they had axle issues.....
-
Got the engine out today, as I am easing back into working on projects. Spent the morning looking after moma, then hauled and split a chord of firewood, then got on the Burb. First thing I did was to rig the hood into the service position. Pretty handy I think!
-
Then I thawed the engine hoist from the ground it was a part of and got that thing hooked up to the short block
-
The engine and the transmission were like welded together. I could not separate them until I broke out the hammer and a long (old) flat tip and drive a wedge in there.
-
With the block out, I found a bunch of stuff that needed cleaning, so I sprayed the purple stuff all over once again
-
And I got jammed up right there. I need four long 10.9 X 1.5 bolts to bolt the block to the engine stand, and guess what I didn't have any of?
So in the wee hours of the morn, I'll get some of those and get the ball pushed further down the road
-
Eyeballing this factory underhood light, I picked up some LED strip lights that have their own adhesive to arrange around the underside of the hood to illuminate stuff should I need to out on the road/trail
-
So, this is where I had to stop today.
-
Sure is starting to look like an oil change Chief. Please don’t fire me
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Sure is starting to look like an oil change Chief. Please don’t fire me
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i was quietly thinking the same thing..
-
This van has the Nissan Cummins motor, seating for 12 and 4x4, the tires on it are 35x12.50/18. It was actually a decent looking rig really
Plus the roof tent, rear tire rack and so forth.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dave, did they have a price on that thing? Had to have been through the roof. The titan with that engine is ridiculous.
It didn’t have a price tag. I think they were more showing off the wears of that rig. In the end it’s still a Nissan lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Nice for just a days work i'd say.
Just came from the Sportsman Show in Sac, the money there is crazy. Saw 6x6 rig that was well over the 250k mark and bigger than many military trucks.
Look outside the box for the wife, more prayers sent you way.
-
This van has the Nissan Cummins motor, seating for 12 and 4x4, the tires on it are 35x12.50/18. It was actually a decent looking rig really
Plus the roof tent, rear tire rack and so forth.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dave, did they have a price on that thing? Had to have been through the roof. The titan with that engine is ridiculous.
It didn’t have a price tag. I think they were more showing off the wears of that rig. In the end it’s still a Nissan lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is what popped out at me... $30K less than a Suburban??? I wonder what they are listing a new Burb at? $100K?
When Ian from BigTire Garage was on XOR he did a build of something similar. Looked pretty interesting.
https://www.powernationtv.com/build/121/nv2500-van
-
& Tate was claiming they had axle issues.....
I thought these things had AAM units in them???
-
This van has the Nissan Cummins motor, seating for 12 and 4x4, the tires on it are 35x12.50/18. It was actually a decent looking rig really
Plus the roof tent, rear tire rack and so forth.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dave, did they have a price on that thing? Had to have been through the roof. The titan with that engine is ridiculous.
It didn’t have a price tag. I think they were more showing off the wears of that rig. In the end it’s still a Nissan lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is what popped out at me... $30K less than a Suburban??? I wonder what they are listing a new Burb at? $100K?
When Ian from BigTire Garage was on XOR he did a build of something similar. Looked pretty interesting.
https://www.powernationtv.com/build/121/nv2500-van
Close. They’re easily 75k, 80k+ if you get into chevy’s equivalent of the Denali. It’s sad, it seems the new large GM SUVs have become so much of a “status symbol” that they know they can price them as such. I should know - it’s the next ride momma wants. We will not be going new, though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
& Tate was claiming they had axle issues.....
I thought these things had AAM units in them???
Not sure, just recall him mentioning the Cummins powered nissans were prone for axle issues
-
Sure is starting to look like an oil change Chief. Please don’t fire me
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i was quietly thinking the same thing..
Don't project those thoughts...
Don't speak that into my life...;-))
-
I think you people have junked this thread up enough, so I'll get part 2 started. You all can continue to debate the issues of whatever you are talking about that, like usual, has nothing to do with what I created this thread for. Maybe I'll lock out boneheads on part 2, but then, how could I distinguish and sort through to find Ken and the one other guy who actually contributes??? ;-))
-
Prices of new SUVs are insane. Sadly, Duramax, or any other diesel trucks, have become a status symbol for a whole other type of people. Saw an example today. New Duramax Denali (still had temp tags), leveled, 35”ish Toyo‘s, hooked to a 10’ trailer loaded with a 2019 Polaris Ranger. Ranger was limited edition browning camo, lifted, arched a-arms, and 30” tires. Guy tried for what seemed like 10 minutes to back out of a nearly straight driveway. Pretty sure he put the trailer into the rear bumper not once, but twice. Easily had $80k into that setup but couldn’t back it thirty feet without creating an insurance claim.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Think 80 is the low side. I saw 2019s at the sportsman show this weekend in the 20s alone! Add a trailer, mod the ranger and the Denali mods.
OK, Back to thread :facepalm:
Don, don't discount the 9.5aam on this unless you plan on big towing or hard use. The 9.5 has been used for Dmax conversions on a few trucks and has some stout axles!
-
Prices of new SUVs are insane. Sadly, Duramax, or any other diesel trucks, have become a status symbol for a whole other type of people. Saw an example today. New Duramax Denali (still had temp tags), leveled, 35”ish Toyo‘s, hooked to a 10’ trailer loaded with a 2019 Polaris Ranger. Ranger was limited edition browning camo, lifted, arched a-arms, and 30” tires. Guy tried for what seemed like 10 minutes to back out of a nearly straight driveway. Pretty sure he put the trailer into the rear bumper not once, but twice. Easily had $80k into that setup but couldn’t back it thirty feet without creating an insurance claim.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
LOL! Reminds of when my neighbor was trying to back his new boat into his driveway. I got out to help ground guide him, but he would follow my instructions. He finally got in the drive, after about 30 minutes of trying, by backing completely over a bush/flower garden. LOL
-
And that my friends is why the Ford has that moron knob in the dash....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
And that my friends is why the Ford has that moron knob in the dash....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My f150 had that, guess I was too dumb to use it.....
-
Think 80 is the low side. I saw 2019s at the sportsman show this weekend in the 20s alone! Add a trailer, mod the ranger and the Denali mods.
OK, Back to thread :facepalm:
Don, don't discount the 9.5aam on this unless you plan on big towing or hard use. The 9.5 has been used for Dmax conversions on a few trucks and has some stout axles!
I need words of encouragement on this 9.5
I had one in the H2, but only wheeled with it, never towed or pushed it.
Worried about locking it up and snapping an axle
Otherwise, adding a mini-locker to it would solve a lot of problems.
Now having said that, I added one of those power-trax to a toyota diff in my tundra and grenaded the thing pulling into my driveway! So the trust isn't quite there. But, the Toy differential in that year looks like a bush hog gearbox, really small and the 9.5-10.5 diffs are a world stronger and larger.
-
& Tate was claiming they had axle issues.....
I thought these things had AAM units in them???
The newer ones have beefed up their diffs, but the older ones were trash. Same diff as a jeep wrangler but with an extra 2200lbs saddled on it does not breed good results.
-
Did he just compare a gm axle to that of a Jeep? :popcorn:
-
No, I compared the titan M226 wannabe dana 44 rubicon housing to that of a jeep. the new diesel titan has got something closer to that of an 11.5 aam, but of course, metric, new, and not a lot of info for them.
-
& Tate was claiming they had axle issues.....
I thought these things had AAM units in them???
The newer ones have beefed up their diffs, but the older ones were trash. Same diff as a jeep wrangler but with an extra 2200lbs saddled on it does not breed good results.
Define older please?
-
No, I compared the titan M226 wannabe dana 44 rubicon housing to that of a jeep. the new diesel titan has got something closer to that of an 11.5 aam, but of course, metric, new, and not a lot of info for them.
I think Yukon should buy one of the Cummins powered imports and take it all apart and let us know what you find!
-
Don, I wouldn't worry until it breaks. For anecdotal reference only, I have a couple fleet accounts with a few of those SMs in their vans... super overloaded, well north of 200k miles. We lost some carrier bearings on one because it lost fluid, but the rest are original that I can remember. Now don't get me wrong, they have plenty of slop and are underpowered, but the weight and age says something.
-
& Tate was claiming they had axle issues.....
I thought these things had AAM units in them???
The newer ones have beefed up their diffs, but the older ones were trash. Same diff as a jeep wrangler but with an extra 2200lbs saddled on it does not breed good results.
Define older please?
2016 and older used the metric 226mm, which is essentially the same modified dana 44 32 spline that the JK, ('07-'18) wrangler rubicon used, and the ones with the electric lockers are a variation on the same Rubicon locker. For the weight of the vehicle and what the owners tend to put them through I see a lot of failures, and up until recently when we started producing parts for them your only recourse for a damaged ring and pinion for example was a $3500 new axle housing assembly from the dealer as they buy them whole from dana overseas for these. we've had them in the shop for the 2017+ versions and with the diesel, but with captive part numbers between aam and Nissan they're tough to get started in any mass production sense of the word.
-
Sounds like a solid warning right there
Stay Away!