REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
TOOLS, CONSTRUCTION, ALTERNATIVE ENERGY => Hand Tools, Power Tools, Welders, etc => Topic started by: Bear9350 on July 07, 2016, 08:28:19 AM
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Over the weekend the air compressor kicked in and started running. About the time I expected it to shut off I heard a leak. Turned it off and finally had a chance to look at it last night.
The metal tube going to the pressure switch is leaking around the plastic retainer. You can see the condensation on it in this pick from where the air was leaking last night.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/compressor1_zpsilvdt060.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/compressor1_zpsilvdt060.jpg.html)
The tube exits the bottom of the pressure switch and then runs over to the compressor.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/compressor2_zps3h7ytscd.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/compressor2_zps3h7ytscd.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/compressor3_zpsijh49qzg.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/compressor3_zpsijh49qzg.jpg.html)
The compressor wouldn't run unless I bypassed the pressure switch. Anybody know an easy way for me to fix this. Also what is the correct term for this line? I was hoping I would just be able to run an airline of some sort instead but I'm not sure what I would need on the pressure switch side for fittings.
I haven't had the time to look into it too closely yet. A lot of other things taking priority but would like to have it up and running in case I need it.
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Don't know a lot about what's in the picture.
There is a good chance I think that it may be an o-ring sealing inside that connector.
I have no idea how to get it apart, or if that is the case, but is my suspicion as to how it will be sealed.
I think the easiest way to find out would be to remove the tank end and pressure switch from the compressor so you can at least see eveything easier and work at it easier. May be an easy fix, or may be parts, don't know for sure.
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Don't know what the line is called, but I think that's the one that dumps head pressure to take the load off of the pistons . I'm with sam, should just be an o-ring in that quick connect. If it's the line, just use copper tube.
I've had to replace a couple pressure/contact switchs on my shop tank...easy to do if the problem is with the plastic itself.
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Unloader valve / pressure switch. Tractor supply sells whole unit for around $30 (where I bought mine). If it's line leaking (probably not) you just swap it out for new line. If it's the connector you may be able to pull line by pressing outer ring in towards the fitting & pull line. Then unscrew connector & replace with a pipe to compression type fitting from any hardware store for less than $5
Edit: Upon further inspection of your pics I think you will need to replace whole unloaded valve / pressure switch if it is in fact the connector. They make them with cheap plastic connectors so they can sell you whole switch.
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Doing a little reading it appears it could either be the unloader valve or the check valve causing my problems. It does appear as if the cheap plastic piece on the pressure switch can be replaced if that is the problem.
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After some more troubleshooting last night I believe it to be a problem with the pressure switch itself. I think the contacts got stuck in the on position. Thinking back I do remember thinking that the compressor was running for longer than normal just to get back up to pressure with virtually no use.
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My check valve was a hd brass unit, cost more than the switch I believe.....