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Good work. The orange will weather out in a few weeks.Did you miss the top row of shingles on the rack?
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
So, Bobby...being the calculating trained warrior NCO that you are. Take the appropriate action, Execute!
your standard grunt level CQB is just putting rounds and rounds on scary stuff till it stops scaring you!
So how's the coating you put on the floor holding up?
Wow, nice looking golf course you got going! How's the well?
Was wondering if you had a water test performed. Now with the cabin floor clear, I suspect that stove will make it's way back home?
If you use cement board on the floor (great idea) lay some nicer looking brick/tile stuff on top. It is going to get dirty and that will clean much better than the porous cement board and add touch of cool to it.
Don, creosote build with the more 90's you put in so more cleaning is needed to prevent fires. Stove looks like the exhaust comes out the top. Remove the T & run black pipe up to the ss & go thru the roof. Or do it like you said you were going to & I can make fun of you later when you're wearing that tall black hat.......Basically do more work up front, put the pipe thru the roof & save yourself headache & work later.
Heck, just snake the pipe all around to warm everything up,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
The less bends the better and running the pipe through the second floor would be good for getting heat up there. That said if you do go through the side wall it looks like you already have a good chimney to keep the heat in. Just make sure it is long enough for the number of bends you have. More bends need more chimney. The longer chimney increases the draft to make sure the smoke is pulled out. Also, having a good insulated chimney keeps the heat in the chimney and helps prevent the build-up. It might also be possible to layout with a 45 coming off the top of the stove and a second 45 going through the wall. This would also be better than a single 90.Well, now you boneheads have me thinking I need to go straight up, but stove can't be in the center because of limited floor space to start withA floor vent directly above the stove would also heat the second floor well. That is all they did in old houses. Furnace in the basement with a floor vent in the first and second floor directly above to allow for heat to rise. I know, planned to do that, a 16" X 20" hole. I did that in the house I owned in the Tennessee. But thinking about it, I can run the flue straight up through that same hole in the floor and just keep on going up another 3-4 feet to penetrate the roof there.How cold does it get there? Generally not too awful bad, but sometimes we will have a week of below zero temps. Maybe I missed it but you don't have any insulation installed to you? No insulation at the moment. I do not plan to insulate the shop part of the shed, but I will apply R-19 in the floor and ceiling of the upstairs area. I only have 2 X 6 rafters, so R-19 is all that will fit, and get some R-13 in the short stubby walls in the upstairs and in that small service room downstairsThe not to bitterly cold temps will also help cut down on the build-up in your chimney. I ran a wood burning stove in the past, and I don't seem to recall cleaning that thing. I'd burn one of those nuclear fusion logs and melt down that side of the house, but that's about it...
Looking at the picture of the pipe you salvaged, you'll have enough if you do go straight up. Being that you will likely end up in a corner with the stove, you need to remember that the top of the pipe need to be "X" distance above the roof to allow the draft to work properly. I think you have enough for that, only, and not nearly enough to run up the wall and then above roofline. So your thoughts about straight up just make sense. Run the flue up through to second floor, use single wall or even double to allow the most heat transfer. Then tie to the insulated stuff you have and done. You'll have to make or buy the flanges and trim, but no real biggie.
Does sq D not being operation count?
Quote from: stlaser on August 26, 2016, 05:30:48 PMDoes sq D not being operation count?Different build thread..........Hippy starting to rub off on you there Shawn? ;D
ill give it 1 day! I have a feeling that don will utilize it in a manner in which it was not designed for to find out where the weak points of it are.Don may have retired as a warrant occifer, but he started out as a private, and I think he still has a bit of that TANK DRIVER in him still just clawing to get out every once in a while........;D