REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
TOOLS, CONSTRUCTION, ALTERNATIVE ENERGY => Shops Garages and Barns => Topic started by: Bob Smith on September 14, 2020, 03:58:50 PM
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Finally found a site prep contractor. He started clearing the brush today.
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They have serious brush rakes on their equipment
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Next the large excavator To remove the large stumps once the tree guy gets done. Some of the trees are over three ft in diameter. They will also remove a couple large cedar trees next to the house.
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Garage plans are being drawn up and engineered and turned into the county for permits. With any luck I might have a garage by the end of the year.
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Are you getting to keep the wood they are sawing up?
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Wood is going against clearing costs. Market for export is down right now so hopefully price will be better when it gets to market
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Stump removal will be hard as the trees are really large. Well over 100 years old
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I own one of those grapples
Brush grapple is pretty light duty
Stump grapple is one better
I have a rock grapple and lifting a two ton stone with it is no big deal
I'd say if you stuck a log in there a bit off center it would crush it into two pieces pdq.
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Nice progress Bob. Sometimes it’s relaxing to watch professionals work...I would not want to tackle trees that big on my own
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Doing it yourself is satisfying, but is way more work than you think, and where I am now.
If can afford it, pay for it. If you have time and the equip, go for it.
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Trying to do it myself would be scary. I don’t have a saw with a large enough bar nor the knowledge to keep from damaging something or myself.
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Nothing wrong with paying for it.
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Photo of the log deck waiting on a truck
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Whoa! That's a bunch of trees!
How much all that worth?
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Two loads so far, one fir one mixed fir/cedar
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Wow. Those are some logs. Three across an eight foot deck.
Around here three big ones would net four feet tops. Lol.
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And with wood prices now. Just came from HD, OSB was $27. What kills me is you know they bought in bulk under prior contract and didn't pay that.
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Since the guy dropping the trees knows what he is doing, we talked about two large cedars next to the house. Turns out he also climbs.
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JR, price of products are high but the raw logs are. In the dump right now. Export market is way low, better prices selling local.
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I love watching those guys work. Never catch me up there. Anything over about 20 ft and I'm done.
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Climbing looks like a riot to me, Iv bucked some twenty feet off the ground leaned over this last week and it was such a rush of adrenaline!! Sign me up
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Dave, I only have a couple problems with climbing. I don’t do heights and would have a really hard time trying to climb with all the extra weight attached to me. And of course usually they are climbing because the tree is close to a house or another target. Just trying to keep the limbs from hitting something would do me in.
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Need a climbing saw for that
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Yeah, I bought a MS241C pro Stihl saw but it was not technically a climbing saw. They have a top handle 12 inch bar pro saw that is like $600. That may be my next saw purchase
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Yeah, I bought a MS241C pro Stihl saw but it was not technically a climbing saw. They have a top handle 12 inch bar pro saw that is like $600. That may be my next saw purchase
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My oldest son climbed trees during one summer while in college. He can talk all about that crazy business. He kept it on like a six foot line with a release, to toss it if he lost footing up there.
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Yeah, I bought a MS241C pro Stihl saw but it was not technically a climbing saw. They have a top handle 12 inch bar pro saw that is like $600. That may be my next saw purchase
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That’s a good saw right there, on my list after I get a bigger motor saw 400 something from stihl
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I just got a husqvarna572xp. That saw is a real cutter.
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Those 72cm3 saws get r dun. I have the 372xp. No auto tune like the 572
That dog eats
Dave the crazy thing is now that I have that 241 I rarely ever use the 372
With that 16 inch bar and 3hp I can work it all day without getting worn out and even if the tree is 20-22inches I just go at it from the other side too.
My ego made me buy the big saw but my arms and back sent me to get the little one real quickly afterward.
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I can honesty say I want the big saw for zero reason on then the “ I want it” part. I kind of want to build a mod saw and the 400 series seem to be the better platform. Zero use at all for me lol. Cool factor
This last week I ripped a little chraftsman 12 for at least half the tree. A good tuned saw and sharp blade is all it takes. The saw was free and needed a carb clean. If had it for a few years
I have found a 24” bar gets my stihl into about any tree I have needed. It does fine as long as I run a skip tooth on the wet wood
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Bob, gonna rename this the "Chainsaw thread."
Fits right in with the strong DOT tradition that is so well rooted in our little honest forum here
But while we're destroying Bob's attempt to share his joy of building on his new property
I use the Stihl MS311 which is both a beast on trees, and a workout because of it's weight. I think it's powered by a small block chevy or something...
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Don look at that small saw charlez is talking about. Small bar and tons of power
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I Picked this one up about a month ago.
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That motor to bar ratio is perfect. That motor will pull through anything!
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Is that the easy start? I got one and love it.
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Bob, gonna rename this the "Chainsaw thread."
Fits right in with the strong DOT tradition that is so well rooted in our little honest forum here
But while we're destroying Bob's attempt to share his joy of building on his new property
I use the Stihl MS311 which is both a beast on trees, and a workout because of it's weight. I think it's powered by a small block chevy or something...
No problem, could be a couple months before the garage is permitted anyway.
Not to butt in on the chainsaw stuff, but anyone have any heavy duty two post lift Ideas.
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Thats the regular start.
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Bob, Hippy Shawn has one in his shop and I bet he has an opinion.
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Which smart arse renamed this lol
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Yea, who did that?
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Which smart arse renamed this lol
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He only stated it a few post back!..... :facepalm:
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Nate, that’s the modern version of what I use and the slightly I’m not sure where smaller than the 026 the boss cut up or drove over.
Light. Good power. Use all day.
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Its a pretty good little machine. It really boggs down when you are cutting a tree that is close to the length of the bar. It is very fuel efficient. I got this tree completely down, de limbed and cut rounds from the main trunk. I still have to cut up all the limbs and get everything all raked up and cleaned. Then i will have to have the stump grinder guy come and do his thing.
It was a shame to lose this 25-30' pine tree that was 20 years old. Something got it and it went really quick.
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Nate what is the blade type your using?
They have multiple styles and curfs (?) I prefer a skip tooth, it allows the motor to spool up easier under load.
Opinions may very of course
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Its the standard chain it gets sold with. I will have to do a little researching and see is i can get something that cuts a little better and easier.
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Yea, who did that?
I was just following your command. The thread was toast anyway and chainsaws is a good topic.
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It all has to do with the depth gauge and how you sharpen/adjust. Part of sharpening the blade is to keep the depth gauge in the right height relative to the teeth.
You can be more aggressive on the depth with softwoods.
I touch my chain up before every use. Even a small saw will cut well with a sharp chain.
And that tree looks like it got hit by pine bark beetles. The blue in the tree is pretty telling.
Get one of these. You’ll thank me later
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/
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Which smart arse renamed this lol
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He only stated it a few post back!..... :facepalm:
My Bad!
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Its a pretty good little machine. It really boggs down when you are cutting a tree that is close to the length of the bar. It is very fuel efficient. I got this tree completely down, de limbed and cut rounds from the main trunk. I still have to cut up all the limbs and get everything all raked up and cleaned. Then i will have to have the stump grinder guy come and do his thing.
It was a shame to lose this 25-30' pine tree that was 20 years old. Something got it and it went really quick.
Nate get a wood chuck for your drill, and drill a bunch of holes to make a hollow section in the middle. Pour a cup or two of diesel or kerosene in the hole and allow to marinade. Then around dark, set a match to it and enjoy the nice blaze. In a day or so, take the tractor and grade over or pull out any root sections the fire did not eat up.
Pine is full of turpentine and will burn itself up. I remember going through level "C: SERE at Camp Mackall. During the phase we were out in the boonies, I'd look for a downed pine or stump part and carve some chunks from the stump. Excellent fire starter, I thought. Samm could undoubtly illuminate the subject better than I...
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Yea, who did that?
I was just following your command. The thread was toast anyway and chainsaws is a good topic.
Sorry, didn't mean to steer you off your objective.
But you're right, Chainsaws are a good subject!
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This is by far the most used chainsaw I have:
https://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Chain-Saws/CS-2511T
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Did you ever get any of the adds or email spam offering to sell that saw for like fifty bucks?
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I just got a husqvarna572xp. That saw is a real cutter.
It comes stock with a 20 inch bar. According to the book it will carry anything from an 18 to a 28. I bought a 24 for it at the time I bought it. I used the large one on a couple bigger trees just because I had it but the 20 would have been fine. That saw is a cutting machine. There was an offer when I bought it that if I bought a case of fuel, they would extend the factory warranty from 3 years to five so of course I did that. I used 2 of the 6 cans the first day.
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Lots of rain here today, chainsaws are really getting wet. Contractor spread some reject 1 1/2 minus rock around yesterday filling in a few large stump holes and also silt control if it started to rain.
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Hey!! Build thread.
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Dang it Bob, don't you know that this is a chainsaw thread?
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Dang it Bob, don't you know that this is a chainsaw thread?
Look here debbie downer! :facepalm:
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When I got home from hunting the garage site looked a lot better.
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Looking toward the rear from the road.
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Small pile of dirt, might turn into a backstop for a small range
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Once I figure out the easement for the driveway and required setback distance we can apply for the permit to build. The contractor will be tasked with that as I don’t get along with people and stupid requests.
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Hope your regs are better than mine. Now I will say so far the inspectors have been cool.
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Awesome. Is the blue building yours also?
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Awesome. Is the blue building yours also?
The blue one is neighbors across the driveway. Nothing was said about set backs from driveway when he built his garage That is part of the rub, is the easement 30ft 15 ft each side of property line. Or 30 ft all on my property, or just 15 ft total all on my property. My paperwork says except the south 15ft of described land. But the driveway is on the north edge of property and the county isn’t sure, And I just want to build.
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Nothing like red tape to take the excitement out of a project.
So, you trying to use your shop to help block the view of the neighbors place? Or just putting it where you have room to?
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Even though this place is 2.5 acres it is only 100 ft. Wide and very long. The shop is 45x60, 10 ft setback from one side and either 15 or 30 ft easement plus whatever the county says for setback on the other side. Anyway, not trying to block any view just trying to find a spot for it where I can get a trailer backed into. If I set in across from his shop I can use his gravel area to swing the truck into.
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The plans and permit applications are ready to be turned into the county but the county is 30 days out for accepting them. They will call within the next two weeks to schedule an appointment for plan review and turning in the application. And they wonder why people build stuff without permits.
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Well, I do t remember if it was two or three April’s ago.
I called the city of Winnipeg about a kitchen Reno.
Still waiting. Glad I did the work...
Best of luck when the time comes.
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I got tired of waiting on the county so I just went ahead and parked in the new garage
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Hasn’t rained in a couple days and was dry enough to drive on without making mud.
Haven’t heard a word from county yet.
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:popcorn:
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Looks spacious.
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Well, don’t you know covid is the new excuse why lead times don’t matter..... :rolleyes:
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Not a lot of coverage there, Bob.
I think I'd do a little more before I called it done ;-)
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Limited shelf space right now. Did you figure a spot for a lift?
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Should be able to fit all your toys and tools in there.
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On Shawns advice there will be a four post lift in the second bay. Contractor will dig out post locations for extra depth concrete in post areas.
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Got an email from Mason county. My shop Permit is ready to be picked up. Only have to take money and sign off on conditions, whatever those happen to be
Then wait for the turn in line with the contractor for construction. Hope to have a four foot wall around the site to hold the bank and pipe the drainage out of the way by the time the construction starts but the area needs to dry out a bit first. Moving right along at snails pace.
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:likebutton:
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Like molasses in winter....got to be frustrating
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I'm waiting on my permit too,,,,,,,,,,
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Like molasses in winter....got to be frustrating
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Way beyond frustration at this point.
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It was 3K to submit my plans (includes septic) and I just got another bill from the arch for a $900.
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Should have a retaining wall in place shortly. More for drainage than holding back dirt. Two feet of soil and roots and then yellow clay. Next task is guessing what size pipe to set in behind the wall.
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Heck, want to talk about moving dirt!
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Not at all, my dirt pile has been moved off site
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The concrete guy has most of the footing forms for the wall in place. Then it rained a bit over night
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The clay bottom holds water very good, set up my small sump pump and pumped the water out.
Hope the ground dries out enough to support the mixer truck Friday.
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Wish I was this far along, looks good.
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Getting closer to having a wall to keep dirt and water under control
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The footings now have the wall forms sitting on them waiting on the mixer mid week. The footings and building stem walls should start end of next week. Nice to see things happening finally.
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Congrats Bob. I know its exciting to see it start taking shape.
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I’m curious to what the layout is of this shop. Got any screenshots of the blueprints?
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Dave, it has been so long since I have even seen the plans. It is just a shop with four bays. Two with 12x12 doors and two with 10x 10 doors. Nothing fancy or trick but will have a lift in one bay at the rear, always wanted one but never had the height.
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That is going to be really nice when you get it finished!
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That is going to be really nice when you get it finished!
I think you said it, will be super nice.
Some of the pictures led me to think it had a few more angles to the foundation was why I asked
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Dave, what you see now is a retaining wall on two sides of the building pad. Water soaks down to the clay then runs out into the building pad. The wall and drainage behind it should take care of that problem.
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Nature is relentless!
Ever notice how so much of our engineering throughout the millennia have been an attempt to try to change it in some way...?
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Yup nature always ends up in first place. I have tried to just detour the water path a bit. Hopefully nature doesn’t mind a few more feet on its way to the saltwater.
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Yup nature always ends up in first place. I have tried to just detour the water path a bit. Hopefully nature doesn’t mind a few more feet on its way to the saltwater.
Going for the compromise...Smart move!
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Don , I do not claim to be an engineer, common sense at work here, I just need to fit this garage into the footprint the county requires and be able to back my stuff into it.
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They require you to back into the garage. Is that a fire code of some kind?
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No JR, missleading statement I guess. I will need to back the travel trailer and boat into garage. The property is only 100 ft wide with a 15 ft road easement on one side. Need a 5 ft setback from one property line and 20 ft on driveway side. So not much room to angle the garage to make backing in easier.
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Well they got started with the footings for the building. Should be ready for inspection Wednesday and pour the footings Friday morning. Long time coming
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Makes sense now. Still waiting on some bolt report to get my permits.
We got some dirt moved, pile is way down but a solid rain on thurs evening slowed us down. Little pic, orange is top of pile now.
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I’m excited for you Bob. Can’t wait to see the finished product.
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Great to start building (more)
But what about this heat wave???
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At the rate things are going I think worrying about drying it in before the rainy season is more important than a heat wave. 70-80 temps in forecast for next couple weeks so should have concrete poured ok. I don’t care if they have to work under the lights at this point. I need a garage.
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The footings are finally being poured. Another couple weeks the concrete floor should be in place and the outside walls started
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As frustrating as the wait has been it has to be exciting to see progress. Barring disruptions What’s the completion eta?
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Builder has up to 90 days to complete his work.
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Stem walls are poured, need to get the forms off and get it ready for the floor. Builder will dig out area under each leg position to help support the lift. I will get the gutter drain line in place before he fills against the outside of wall. Still need to get drain lines in place behind the retaining wall, but compared to last few months lots happening.
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Nice, wish mine was this far along.
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Floor gets some crushed concrete placed Monday and then poured on the 5th of August . Got all the drainage placed this past week. Need to install the power conduit up the stem wall, I know it needs to be two foot ditch from meter to building, but not sure what the local PUD requires size wise for conduit. Just call right? Well no I don't have a permit from the state or local PUD, I just need to know what size County requires the conduit to be up the darn stem wall because a three foot sidewalk is being poured and I need to have the sweep and short stub out in place before the concrete walkway is placed. Well you know you need a permit for electric work and you need a request from county PUD. No, I just need to know conduit size requirement, no power until the garage is built and the insulation is placed. Oh well life goes on, 2.5 inch conduit will be placed next to stem wall in a two ft. trench. You have to love the government.
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:likebutton: :likebutton:
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Bob I would be inclined to say they would follow NEC guidelines which would mean conduit size would be dependent on gauge and number of conductors. But in your area who knows.
https://www.stateelectric.com/resources/conduit-fill-table
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I agree Charles, and code would be either 2 " or 2.5 inch depending on size wire used. But I also know PUD could require larger size just because they can. Because of not having a request for work application on file, they said they really couldn't tell me because they didn't have the information. I explained the work would not start until October and the request for work would be cancelled for lack of activity, but that didn't seem to matter. 2.5 inch more than meets nec requirements so that is what is going into the hole. If I dug the trench now, the driveway would be cut off from the house for however long so that isn't happening either.
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Depending on how its run you could also put a large pvc pipe,e.g. 4 inch pipe and then later install the conduit through the pipe.
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Put 2 or 3 4inch sleeves under the side walk. Then you have what you need for electric as well as a couple spares for future like sprinkler ect.
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Good idea for sidewalk crossings. Have used a water jet a few times to get under the sidewalk and most always end up with cracking within a year.
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Sleeves are a great idea.
Gotta love the red tape. Big government doing what they do, make life impossible. Don't let it get you down Bob!
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Put 2 or 3 4inch sleeves under the side walk. Then you have what you need for electric as well as a couple spares for future like sprinkler ect.
I do this everytime. However don’t rely on memory for where the are located. Take measurements and pictures. Don’t ask me why….
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Well, 40 yds later there is a concrete floor in the garage foundation. Hot day, hot mud, long run from the plant, turned into a real job getting it down before it was hard. Even with retardant added it was a real challenge for the crew. Had to saw cut one side, just not enough time to zip strip it while it was still workable. Concrete guy finished grinding down the door openings today. Not the smoothest garage floor around but should be fine.
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Progress!!
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Well after the lumber truck driver almost lost his forklift and the load of wood the framing crew went to work. So happy. To see some walls being framed up.
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Two of the four window openings framed in the other two half done. I wanted them high enough looking inside would be a challenge. Just looking for some light.
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I'm jealous,,,,,,,,
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I am so happy to see some walls going up. Been almost a year since we started this project. Between the county and their permits and the builder getting started, I was wondering if things were ever getting started.
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Oh tell me about that!!!! 3rd time permits went in (arch left out info)
Still being told Dec for the building, maybe!
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Very nice :likebutton:
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High windows and still able to hang a row of cabinets under them!! Wish I had done them up higher or maybe both
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Hadn’t thought about setting cabinets under the windows but a good idea. Thanks for that
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Well things are still moving forward. Still need to finish framing the rollup doors in the front. Started putting up the siding. Lap siding in front, plywood sides and rear.
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Nice progress. Fiber cement siding?
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Nice progress. Fiber cement siding?
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I wish it was but it is chip wood formed into plywood with groves in the face. The front should/will be cement board lap siding to match the house.
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I like that style siding. Pre primed too. Why no vapor?
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I like that style siding. Pre primed too. Why no vapor?
Well, it is being built as a non heated garage. If it does get heated it will only be to keep from freezing. Will turn the heat up if working inside during cold spells.
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Just helps it being more stable in diff weather, heated or not and its cheap!
Anyway, still wish I was that far along.
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Trusses should arrive in the morning. The building will really start to take on its final shape once they get the trusses boomed up in place and the sheeting applied.
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Large boom truck and truss truck showed up this morning
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Now the trusses sit on top of walls and the carpenter takes two weeks vacation. If it were July I guess I wouldn’t care as much. Rain is on the way and nothing happening getting a bit old. I also have painter waiting to get started.
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Its moving anyway! Long as you get dried in before the hard rain comes you should be fine. When I rebuild my 3 car garage (fire), I was tarping it every night and working at the rains mercy. Right after that I redid my houses roof, same schedule!
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2 to 4 inches of rain in the next 3 days. I guess the the wood will dry eventually without problems or the builder can replace it. So disappointing since we had such a dry summer. JR I don't have a roof to tarp or I would. With all the rain coming not sure where it will run to but I am sure ditches are in order for a month or so to keep the muddy water away from the house. I have pipes in the ground but the soil isn't final graded yet so who knows.
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I was tarping the open trusses, garage was full of stuff.
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Trusses would be easy to tarp, they are all stacked on top of the walls at this point.
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Regardless, you’re making progress which is good news
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Regardless, you’re making progress which is good news
YES
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Well the roof is sheeted and underlayment installed. Waiting on shingles
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This project is now a year old. Thanks to the Covid excuses everything takes forever.
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That will be really nice when complete
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Shawn, your four post lift, is it bolted down or on rollers?
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Shawn, your four post lift, is it bolted down or on rollers?
I had it bolted down in old shop, just seemed safer imo. You’ll also push it forward when driving on and off unless you have at least a couple to keep it from sliding. My neighbor has his with rollers unbolted ( you remove rollers unless you’re moving it ). I borrowed his rollers to move my lift to new shop.
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Yes that makes sense, I just thought it would be nice to push it over to higher ceiling area if more height was needed
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Would just need electric and air connections at both locations. Or am I missing something
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Would just need electric and air connections at both locations. Or am I missing something
Exactly, spot on :likebutton:
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Bob that is most excellent!! Wow! I really like that. I know you are excited
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This project is now a year old. Thanks to the Covid excuses everything takes forever.
My wife recently mentioned building our cabin next year. I didn't laugh, but that was my first instinct.
Nice progress sir.
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This project is now a year old. Thanks to the Covid excuses everything takes forever.
My wife recently mentioned building our cabin next year. I didn't laugh, but that was my first instinct.
Nice progress sir.
You building it or having it built?
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Bob, you are dried in before the winter hits, big plus!
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This project is now a year old. Thanks to the Covid excuses everything takes forever.
My wife recently mentioned building our cabin next year. I didn't laugh, but that was my first instinct.
Nice progress sir.
You building it or having it built?
Her plan included ideas on funding to pay someone to do it.
We don't have the money.
We don't have a physical plan.
We don't have a builder.
People have told us that builders are hard to find that will travel (none local)
We all know the raw material situation.
I could go on, but it's Bobs thread.
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lol. We should start a thread.
“Thing my spouse and I disagree on”
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:popcorn:
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Carry on Ken, this thread is so full of everything.
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Bob, you are dried in before the winter Monsoon hits, big plus!
Here ya go, I corrected it for ya!
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Speaking of, we are getting hit here. Not hard but solid, pool filled 2in last night!
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lol. We should start a thread.
“Thing my spouse and I disagree on”
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That thread would be bigger then the “what did you do today” thread in no time!
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The painter is coming today to get a coat of paint on the facia boards before the gutters go on. Framer should have been here yesterday to finish the roof but he found other projects for the day and they weren’t on this job. So now his crew of two is working on shingles and the painter will be onsite soon to paint. Been a year on this project and past time to be done with it. I doubt we will have another weather window so the garage will not get painted until spring. Doors will be installed along with the openers November 10th. Apron across the front needs to be poured and the contractor should finally be finished.
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:likebutton:
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I don’t think the garage is ready for a final but it is scheduled for the inspection tomorrow. The lap siding in front needs caulking, corner trim boards needs cut to proper length, and a few other things.
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Good luck!
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Got the final on the garage. No power yet and without heat I will never get it dried out. The floor stays wet most of the time because of all the moisture in the air.
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Congrats bob. Pics?
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Got the final on the garage. No power yet and without heat I will never get it dried out. The floor stays wet most of the time because of all the moisture in the air.
Progress :likebutton:
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Photos of garage showing end view.
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Rear and front of garage.
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Lots of work to be done inside. Wiring, insulation, sheetrock, and trying to improve the floor. Hard to see with no light but a glance of inside. Need to get stuff inside so I can see where to put shelves, cabinets, Resnor heaters,lights and plugins and the compressor. The lift will go in the first bay toward the rear of building. The high side has 12x14 doors and the lower side has 10x 10 doors. It also has scissor trusses for more height for the lift.
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Once the concrete apron is finished I can get the approach graded and rocked. If it ever dries out enough the finish dirt work on the sides and rear can be finished and get the painting done. After a year of frustration and delays the end is in sight. I also need to change out the man door. I wanted one that swings out not to the inside. Of course that didn’t happen because the builder told me it was a special order thing.
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Very nice shop :likebutton:
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Thanks Shawn, the lift will be ordered soon. Thanks again for all the help
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Thanks Shawn, the lift will be ordered soon. Thanks again for all the help
No worries, lifts are definitely handy. Installed the hitch on the van with my 4 post today.
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Finally closed in and dry, Very nice, El Camino and all. I have an 87.
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That’s what men dream of
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Concrete apron scheduled for noon tomorrow and the weatherman is calling for clear sunny day. If the dew point stays low maybe I can dry it out a bit. Bought a torpedo construction heater but so far just burning up diesel. Really need to start pulling wire so I can insulate the ceiling area and get it sheet rocked. Might be able to start drying out if I get the bird blocks and ridge separated from the rest of the building.
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Great news. Any of that bad wind or rain come through your area?
What is a bird block?
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Charles, yes we had strong winds and lots of rain but no damage. “Bird blocks” boards between rafter tails with screened holes in them for air vents. Must be called something else down there. Which is the problem now, the humidity is high and with the doors and windows closed the concrete floor is really wet.
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They called something diff in TX?
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Never heard them called that. I think we refer to them as eave blocks
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Never heard them called that. I think we refer to them as eave blocks
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Bird blocks, rafter blocks, truss blocks all were terms we referred to them as when framing.
Bob can you lay them down or hold them to the inside of your topplate? That should give you a 1.5” gap the length of the board or better. Are you finishing the interior with drywall and insulation ?
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Dave I will have at least the ceiling insulated and sheet rocked. At this point I need to close in the upper area so the main part can dry out. I think the upper area will dry out because of all the air movement. 2x6 bird blocks, with 4 large vent holes in each, between all the rafter tails. My old garage was 2x4 blocks and only every other one was vented.
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Started spreading 3/4- crushed basalt rock against the garage apron and down towards the driveway. Need at least 3 more 3 yd. loads to get close to grade. Might lay a perf pipe next to driveway to carry water away. One foot deep trench four inch perf pipe covered to top of pipe with 7/8 drain rock and 3/4 clean up to grade maybe a couple inches.
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Bob, you know the rules…… :popcorn:
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Bob, are you and the boss not snow birding anymore, or is that on hold for now?
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Nate, usually don’t head south till after Christmas. Might be running a few weeks later this year but still plan on going down.
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Nate, usually don’t head south till after Christmas. Might be running a few weeks later this year but still plan on going down.
:likebutton:
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Started spreading 3/4- crushed basalt rock against the garage apron and down towards the driveway. Need at least 3 more 3 yd. loads to get close to grade. Might lay a perf pipe next to driveway to carry water away. One foot deep trench four inch perf pipe covered to top of pipe with 7/8 drain rock and 3/4 clean up to grade maybe a couple inches.
You won't regret doing it, but you might regret it if you don't.
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Don’t forget the geotextile sock for the perforated pipe.
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I did the drains around my pool (edge and french), what a godsend. Even the brick patio drains nice.
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Got the first layer of crushed gravel down. Need to compact it and then put down another layer. Left an area next to driveway to install a drainage pipe.
Ordered a large dehumidifier to help dry out the inside of garage. Have two smaller units running now. They collect about a quart of water a day each, so they are helping.
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Well I gave up fighting the snow and ice and low temps. Loaded up the car and headed to AZ. Had to get across two major passes, weather cooperated and made it down here with bare and dry roads.
I set up the electrical install with an electrician, he will send photos and any questions via phone messaging. Only running the power underground in conduit to the building from the new meter, around 125 feet, set a 200 amp panel and power up the door openers and a few lights and plugins. Lights will be mounted to walls instead of celling so I can get to them with an extension ladder when needed. The two 15 ft high bays will only be for storing boat and travel trailer so intense lighting won't be needed. Can use portable lighting when doing maintenance or repair work to them.
Met with the Reznor heater install guy, he will get the Reznor mounted and run the propane line across the rafters and down the wall. The gas dealer will set a tank and hook up to the pipe system.
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Sounds like progress and that discretion is the better part of valor. Enjoy the weather, snowbird!
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bob, what is the size of this again?
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Nate, it is 45' X 60'
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Nate, it is 45' X 60'
:likebutton:
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You take hwy97 or 84 down?
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Nice, a little bigger than my shop will be.
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You take hwy97 or 84 down?
I-5, 99, 58, and 40 Siskiyou and Tehachapi were both bare and dry.
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Nice! Good for you. Heading back up 97 to leavenworth in 2 weeks from Medford.
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Watch the forecasts, and check them while on the road. The forecasts have gotten pretty good if you find the right website, which is not generally the DOT sites
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Watch the forecasts, and check them while on the road. The forecasts have gotten pretty good if you find the right website, which is not generally the DOT sites
Haha, I check forecasts, traffic cams, and call customers that live in the areas to get a real, no-BS assessment. after all my boat related weather scenarios, I have several GPS and Weather satellite apps that I rely on.
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Well I now have power in the garage and it is painted on the outside. Need to get some lights hung but things are really looking up.
Managed to cut the phone lines when the Power trench was dug, but managed to find it by calling for locate service. Of course the internet here comes through the phone line so was without internet and tv for a couple days. Not sure why the phone lines were placed where the are but it is what it is.
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811, 2 steps forward, 1 step back
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Need pics Bob. Glad it wasn’t worse
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811, 2 steps forward, 1 step back
Interesting thing about 811. For power they will only locate to the meter. If you want to locate power lines in an area after the meter it will cost you. Cut the phone line and you loose service, cut the power line most anything can happen.
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Need pics Bob. Glad it wasn’t worse
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Pretty darn nice Bob.
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bob, did you get a L4701?
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(https://media1.giphy.com/media/yrFrXTTTcHIY0/giphy.gif)
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Nice Bob. Plenty of room to keep busy!
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That place came out nice!
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Had the ceiling of garage insulated and covered with WMP. Four guys with two sets of scaffolding and one day.
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Must be nice. Thinking about doing blow in all over for mine.
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Had the ceiling of garage insulated and covered with WMP. Four guys with two sets of scaffolding and one day.
Very nice, what kind of R rating? I think my shop in Colorado once we added insulation between purlins was over 40. That shop is sooooooo easy to heat now.
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Used R-30 batts, need to get Reznor propane heater installed and insulate the walls.
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Used R-30 batts, need to get Reznor propane heater installed and insulate the walls.
Forced air or radiant?
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The heater will be gas fired forced air. I usually set the temp to around 45-55 to help keep things warm and dry. unless working out there, Then turn the thermostat up to 65-70 depending on task at hand.
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Looks very clean and tidy. That will help a lot
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The heater will be gas fired forced air. I usually set the temp to around 45-55 to help keep things warm and dry. unless working out there, Then turn the thermostat up to 65-70 depending on task at hand.
So that’s what I have in the Colorado shops with exception they are electric as I don’t have gas line in those shops and normally I keep it set at 40 unless I’m living in it (recently when down there) then I keep it at 55 at night (shop warms up much quicker in morning). Back in Indiana we used radiant spot heaters (over work stations) and radiant tube heaters (over large equipment) we didn’t want to freeze such as tube saws and machining centers etc where you had things like coolant and minimum operating temperatures such as spindles on the cnc machines. The radiant was much more efficient as it heated objects. It also heats the floor under your feet which is a great benefit. If you haven’t bought the forced air you may want to inquire about it. Do not buy tube heaters from northern tool etc in my experience those are extremely small output. But have a commercial dealer local spec it out for you. Just a thought