Author Topic: SquareD Part 5: The build continues and gets more aggressive (Read 422622 times)

Bob Smith · « **Reply #350 on:** December 01, 2014, 11:44:01 PM »

Practice, practice, practice, maybe need to take a few photos as you tear things down?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #351 on:** December 02, 2014, 08:17:09 AM »

Quote from: Bob/OlallaWa on December 01, 2014, 11:44:01 PM

Practice, practice, practice, maybe need to take a few photos as you tear things down?

Ah, I'll figure it out.

No where near as complicated as that transmission

And

The transmission is done...Yep, ready for pickup!

Nate · « **Reply #352 on:** December 02, 2014, 01:53:25 PM »

did he take pics and do a detailed write up or no? :D

Flyin6 · « **Reply #353 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:02:26 PM »

Quote from: nmeyer414 on December 02, 2014, 01:53:25 PM

did he take pics and do a detailed write up or no? :D

Nate,

He took some.

Basically he disassembled the thing and started fresh. He found lots of mistakes. The blue piston I had installed that had given me such a fit, remember that? Well I had folded both the inner and the outer seal in the process. He corrected clearances, replaced a couple more bushings, increased oil flow in places, and set things up right. He even came up with some new filter assembly that tucked down into the pan deeper.
It looks good, and I'll post the detailed write-up tomorrow

Flyin6 · « **Reply #354 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:04:23 PM »

...And I kicked butt on the transfer case today...It's done!

Now only the front axle and the whole bees wax drivetrain is complete!

I started the day by picking up the rebuild trans. Here's Steve showing off his good work!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #355 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:07:01 PM »

Yup, trans in the boot, or trunk or cargo area, heck it's in the back of the car!

Transfer case started with my finishing pulling it down, then I started back up with switching things into the proper holes, then I pressed a new bearing into the back cover

Flyin6 · « **Reply #356 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:08:17 PM »

Here's the proper parts fitted into the proper holes

Flyin6 · « **Reply #357 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:09:52 PM »

And the forward out shaft seal and bearing retainer actually installed for good!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #358 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:11:12 PM »

I had to remove the factory dust shield so the old yoke would clear the new larger bearing retainer

Flyin6 · « **Reply #359 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:12:37 PM »

Then the rear cover got a new gasket

Flyin6 · « **Reply #360 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:13:22 PM »

And installed

Flyin6 · « **Reply #361 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:14:56 PM »

Next the input adapter got a new bearing

Flyin6 · « **Reply #362 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:47:42 PM »

Correction:

That is an output bearing retainer assembly and here it is getting it's internals and new parts

Flyin6 · « **Reply #363 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:49:01 PM »

Then it got it's new bearing

Flyin6 · « **Reply #364 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:51:47 PM »

This new output bearing retainer is part of the new rear transfer case mount system I will be installing

Obviously much thicker, it has a steel assembly that clamps to it and is fitted to a poly mount. With it this drivetrain will be well secured

Flyin6 · « **Reply #365 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:52:47 PM »

And here it is fitted to the output assembly

Flyin6 · « **Reply #366 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:54:10 PM »

Next up, the rear yoke is bolted to the driven shaft

Flyin6 · « **Reply #367 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:56:33 PM »

Now the input housing gets a double seal, one to seal off the transmission, and another to seal off the transfer case.

This seal had failed in the original case as that cavity had a goodly puddle of transmission fluid in it

Flyin6 · « **Reply #368 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:58:03 PM »

Then both the input housing and the output bearing retainer were bolted to the case

Flyin6 · « **Reply #369 on:** December 02, 2014, 07:59:58 PM »

Time now to rebuild the rear output geartrain. It got all new roller bearings which I packed in red grease to hold them in place while assembling the parts

Flyin6 · « **Reply #370 on:** December 02, 2014, 08:03:35 PM »

I'm tired...long day.
Let me correct myself again. That last set of photos shows the roller bearings installed in the wrong place. They fit much deeper into the gear shaft, making installing them a bit of a headache. Heavy grease is absolutely necessary to hold them there as this whole unit gets inverted to nest it onto the other half of the gear

But fit it does after some twisting, tweaking, taping and shaking

Flyin6 · « **Reply #371 on:** December 02, 2014, 08:05:33 PM »

I found these trick little detent balls and spring assemblies. They make the shift from 2H to 4H to 4L very crisp and positive. Word on the street is that these jewels are the ticket for single shift lever transfer case operation

Flyin6 · « **Reply #372 on:** December 02, 2014, 08:06:21 PM »

And that wraps up a really productive build day 195

cudakidd53 · « **Reply #373 on:** December 02, 2014, 10:57:17 PM »

We want you to practice short video clips with sound- SquareD will be running some time this year, and WE ALL want to hear it purr when it finally does! :)

YlwNova72 · « **Reply #374 on:** December 03, 2014, 06:27:46 AM »

Don one thing to look into while doing the wiring is to install a brake light interrupter switch so that if your being followed you can defeat those pesky brake lights.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #375 on:** December 03, 2014, 07:27:12 AM »

Quote from: YlwNova72 on December 03, 2014, 06:27:46 AM

Don one thing to look into while doing the wiring is to install a brake light interrupter switch so that if your being followed you can defeat those pesky brake lights.

I like that

But going one better, I have been thinking about a day/night mode

In "Night" mode, all normal lighting will be inactive and only NVG lighting will be activated

Sort of like a master light switch. I figure I'll install a switch that controls the power or the ground...probably the latter since it reduces the possibility of a fire. That way if I need to get tactical, switch to NVG or Tactical or night mode and I'll have only Black out type lighting.

I am doing my reading...and I can vary the color of LED's with voltage. I want a setting to get very dim and blue green. Or I might just get a used Army Black out light assembly or two, or just run strictly with the NVG's

Over my career I operated all sorts of helicopters using no light at all and only NVG and doing some pretty crazy stuff while doing all that. So that is a consideration as well for me...but for less qualified folks like my little rangers, I might want to give them the "Little light" option

Whatever I do, I think it will be unique and cool for this truck

Nate · « **Reply #376 on:** December 03, 2014, 12:05:38 PM »

don, i believe the mil light switches are 24v.

Armalite · « **Reply #377 on:** December 03, 2014, 01:24:39 PM »

You wont always be young and have a set of fresh eyes...

That low light option might benefit you as well one of these days...

Or if you take shrapnel to one eye, or both, and only have partial vision. Will the NVGs still be effective? Seems like a low light option would be better suited for down the road...

Just my humble, not having a clue, opinion...

Every thing else looks good. Wish that trans would have come together as easily as the transfer case!!! :P

Flyin6 · « **Reply #378 on:** December 03, 2014, 02:30:09 PM »

Hey Ash...

Yep, I gooned up that transmission. Imagine if I would have put it all together and been fighting trans problems while sorting a new P-Pump motor going into a VE motor chassis. I would have had to remove it and paid to fix it while fighting the headache of doing all that extra work.

I think God might have been looking after me in the long run.

Good logic on the illum switchology...I'll have to think that one out a little better.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #379 on:** December 03, 2014, 02:30:31 PM »

Quote from: nmeyer414 on December 03, 2014, 12:05:38 PM

don, i believe the mil light switches are 24v.

Bet you're right

That just made me think of something

Why wouldn't I want to upgrade the electrical system to 24 volt...For the starting and other automotive needs it is a more efficient voltage.

Anyone have knowledge on this question/matter?

KensAuto · « **Reply #380 on:** December 03, 2014, 02:39:31 PM »

The factory wiring would be fine...light bulbs are easy to acquire....the hardest parts to find would be the shutdown solenoid, starter, and alternator....then if there's anything electrical on the trans?.?..

Flyin6 · « **Reply #381 on:** December 03, 2014, 07:11:13 PM »

OK on the electrical discussion, although that was too short and too little to gain any good decision making information.

So today was all about changing up the shop in prep for what is coming, which are several big projects. Those being the assembly of the drivetrain outside of the vehicle, the installation of the improved front axle, and the installation of the drivetrain back into the chassis after a long absence.

I started with a pretty big mess. All of this needs to change up to give me a lot more room to assemble larger and heavier things

Flyin6 · « **Reply #382 on:** December 03, 2014, 07:13:38 PM »

So I brought in some reinforcements in the form of hydraulics and diesel powered energy. First I carried Duane's awful looking engine crane which I think he gave to me, but not sure. Anyway that will be used in the not too distant future so time to bring it up. And because the next time I mix up some Lycoming gray paint, I'm going to spray that nasty looking thing and update it

Flyin6 · « **Reply #383 on:** December 03, 2014, 07:16:32 PM »

That Deere 4720 is a Hoss! Boasting 66 gross HP and 60 at the PTO and 4WD with a three speed hydro nuclear bionic transmission that features a brain about twice smarter than the average Black Hawk Pilot, it flat gets things done. Although it uses 4 gallons of fuel a minute, it is a pretty handy little toy.

All that power and all it has to do right now is hold onto all those prudy parts

Flyin6 · « **Reply #384 on:** December 03, 2014, 07:17:58 PM »

Not wanting to trust that old HF 1500 lb engine hoist leveler, I opted for their biggest one today. Here it is:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #385 on:** December 03, 2014, 07:21:17 PM »

At first I tried to lift the engine with Duane's defective crane, but it wouldn't fit around the engine stand lags, so I cleared off the precious cargo from the tractor's scoop and did the lift with that. The tractor lifted that engine while idling!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #386 on:** December 03, 2014, 07:28:43 PM »

My welding/grinding table and part time chair is looking sort of bad. I weld up a couple more things on it and I think it's toast, what do you think?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #387 on:** December 03, 2014, 07:32:37 PM »

So at the end of the day, the motor is on the floor and ready to accept more pieces parts. Now if I could just get my knee to work to actually be able to bend down and work on things lower than the beltline.

BTW, tomorrow I visit with the surgeon who is going to talk to me about a replacement knee. I want to get one with a couple extra holes already drilled and tapped so I could bolt stuff on later. Imagine a bolt on leg holster! I'd be the first one with that rig! Or maybe I could bolt up some generator that works a flywheel when I walk so I could recharge my own electrical devices or power my .22 cal mini-mini gun

JR · « **Reply #388 on:** December 04, 2014, 04:03:04 PM »

I like the idea of shutting off the brake lights and a night version. Having no brakelights when someone is following you our chasing you is a great thing. Less reaction time before they hit your bumper.

As for 12v vs 24v, keep it 12v. Sure more amps to crank her over but more options for everything else as well as finding parts.

12v switch vs 24v means nothing, both will work. Just have to watch the draw, more volts=fewer amps and vise versa.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #389 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:28:03 PM »

OK, let's continue building up the powerplant and transmission assembly

The area is cleaned and the parts gathered

Flyin6 · « **Reply #390 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:29:09 PM »

I'll be bolting on this billet ATS flywheel capable of holding all the torque this engine will produce

Flyin6 · « **Reply #391 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:29:58 PM »

I selected some new ARP 12 pt. flywheel bolts to hold it on

Flyin6 · « **Reply #392 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:33:09 PM »

I'm really liking this phase because parts are flying off the shelves.

Including this thin bell housing adapter. For those who don't know, with respect to Cummins engines, just about any transmission will fit with it's specified adapter. This thin one is made for the VE Cummins motor and the RH-46 (A518) transmission. A change to the RH47 lock-up transmission requires a different adapter, so this part is somewhat unique. I reconditioned it earlier in the build

Flyin6 · « **Reply #393 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:34:49 PM »

It goes on first before the flywheel

The bolts were treated to Locktite 242 and torqued to spec

Flyin6 · « **Reply #394 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:35:44 PM »

The ARP bolts are of a much stronger construction and material than the factory stuff

Flyin6 · « **Reply #395 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:37:00 PM »

To torque then, the threads get a coating of Locktite and the underside of the bolt head gets a coating of this assembly lube before being torqued to 120 ft. lbs.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #396 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:38:33 PM »

Then the flywheel and the factory stiffener ring are bolted up and torqued into place

Flyin6 · « **Reply #397 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:40:08 PM »

The reconditioned factory starter is next. This, too, was rebuilt locally to better than factory specs

Flyin6 · « **Reply #398 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:41:36 PM »

Then the torque converter was positioned over the splines and slid home into the case and the transmission dragged into position

Flyin6 · « **Reply #399 on:** December 05, 2014, 05:44:46 PM »

That is a special very low stall RevMax converter which I am hoping performs as described.

I worked the transmission up by stacking things under the aluminum pan. After it got more or less in line, I threaded two long bolts through it, then slid it closer. I threaded a few more bolts to make sure it stayed more or less square while I slid it home.