Author Topic: SquareD Part 5: The build continues and gets more aggressive (Read 421037 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #300 on:** November 26, 2014, 05:34:46 PM »

The factory input bearing cage looks wimpy next to this big chunk of aluminum Shawn sent me last summer

Flyin6 · « **Reply #301 on:** November 26, 2014, 05:38:18 PM »

The output bearing collar is special (just like me) as well. It has the steel part which will serve as the base for a future mount. The sleeve welds to the stub end, then I will construct an whole new cross member to support that case. The factory does not support all that weight, it just hangs there on the back of the trans. Square D is better than all than nonsense. Plus the extra cross member will help stiffen the frame and possibly serve as a skid plate mount

Flyin6 · « **Reply #302 on:** November 26, 2014, 05:42:09 PM »

The other small parts are soaking to soften the grime that I thought I had blasted off earlier

The case will get painted white to show leaks. The brackets and linkages will get the Lycoming gray and some of the bolts and small hardware parts will bet black to fight rust from starting

The bag is a small trick I use. Just dump your part into a baggie, the add your degreaser. Come back a day later and rinse the part(s) clean and they are ready for paint.

Any how, that's it for Build Day 191, Thanksgiving eve, 2014

Happy thanksgiving all!

JR · « **Reply #303 on:** November 27, 2014, 12:09:44 AM »

Did a 205 when I was a younger lad. It was easy and everything was solid and I replaced all but the new billet housings you have. Mine was hanging on an Art Carr 700R4 with a custom shaft. I had a TCI before that and my little SBC blew it up!! Then I blew up the Art Carr too,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Anyway I built a rear mount for mine as you are referring too. It had 2 bosses on the side that worked great!!

Dustoff35 · « **Reply #304 on:** November 27, 2014, 08:03:30 AM »

If you bring over all the ferrous metal parts; case, yokes, covers etc, I can strip and de-rust them in my electrolytic rust removal tank...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #305 on:** November 27, 2014, 08:46:19 AM »

Quote from: Dustoff35 on November 27, 2014, 08:03:30 AM

If you bring over all the ferrous metal parts; case, yokes, covers etc, I can strip and de-rust them in my electrolytic rust removal tank...

Well, I'd say if we can do it tomorrow.
I have an aggressive schedule to have the case painted by tomorrow evening so if I get any spare time Sunday afternoon, I can reassembly

How long does it take?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #306 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:32:39 PM »

OK, time demands, that being my goal of getting the case painted today precluded me from de rusting the parts at Duane's using his nifty chem bath thing he built.
I have been getting on him to post some more on that Power Wagon build he has, which might include the de-rusting of some parts, but I'm not seeing anything...just sayin...

So the wire cup brush on the red grinder was up to bat!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #307 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:33:15 PM »

It does a pretty good job but is definitely time consuming

Flyin6 · « **Reply #308 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:35:28 PM »

THese parts like everything else were in great condition once I knocked off the scale and the crud

Flyin6 · « **Reply #309 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:37:12 PM »

This is all a part of the cleaning process. First I degreased and scrubbed the big parts and soaked the small ones. Next I used the grinder/wire brush and finally I chemically cleaned them with brake cleaner wiping and recleaning until the cloth would come away mostly clean.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #310 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:38:14 PM »

That cleaning included the inside of the case and once all that was cleaned it was time for the acid etching primer, which you see here

Flyin6 · « **Reply #311 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:39:32 PM »

Then the gasket surfaces were taped off and the parts sprayed all over with a thin coat of the acid primer

Flyin6 · « **Reply #312 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:41:13 PM »

Next up I applied three wet coats of the Nason Acrylic Enamel with hardener which was the same process I used with success on the transmission case

Flyin6 · « **Reply #313 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:42:10 PM »

The case tag cleaned up nicely and was galvanized, so I'll just clear coat that and bolt it back on

Flyin6 · « **Reply #314 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:43:32 PM »

These parts will get the same acid primer but will get Lycoming gray because they are stressed parts and not leak prone ones. Be a nice contrast anyway

Flyin6 · « **Reply #315 on:** November 28, 2014, 03:45:26 PM »

May not look like much but that was hours worth of work right there and I met my goal of having the case painted and ready for reassembly by COB today.

So that wraps up BD 192

BobbyB · « **Reply #316 on:** November 28, 2014, 05:27:14 PM »

You going to update your Np205 thread?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #317 on:** November 28, 2014, 07:59:11 PM »

What are you talking about?

I just did...

BobbyB · « **Reply #318 on:** November 28, 2014, 09:12:25 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on November 28, 2014, 07:59:11 PM

What are you talking about?

I just did...

I was talking about this one:

http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=394.0

But, I re-read it, and it's JR's. I thought it was your's, but I wasn't paying attention when I read it when it was posted. My bad for the confusion.

JR · « **Reply #319 on:** November 29, 2014, 11:07:39 PM »

That was a cut and paste from another site I used when talking about the 205 vs the 203 sometime back.

You just can't beat the 205, but most of you know that. Sure would like that behind my alli 1000 and have a stick to boot.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #320 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:08:36 PM »

Concur! The NP203 when converted to part time was OK, but a good old Iron/gear 205 is king in my book. I'll get argument here, but for my purposed this NP205 will meet and exceed my expectations

Now today being Sunday, I didn't get back into the chock blocks until around 1530 ish so I barely had a couple of hours to get something done. I had set as a goal, to simply have the remainder of the parts painted so I could reassemble the T-Case early in the week.

I did that and a bit more

Let's examine

Flyin6 · « **Reply #321 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:11:24 PM »

Looking at the freshly painted case, I realized a goodly part of the side of the case in the previous pic wasn't covered up, but actually just exposed to the elements. So I had to go back and tape off the area around the gaskets and shoot the bare iron with the etching primer. I'm afraid that's all it is going to get as anything more will require a full repaint. THis will suffice as a good barrier to corrosion.

The rest of the parts stand at the ready for cleaning and reassembly

Flyin6 · « **Reply #322 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:12:40 PM »

I cleaned the hardware I was going to reuse and painted it on all sides. It will be ready and dry by tomorrow

Flyin6 · « **Reply #323 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:13:35 PM »

Then came the good part...I was ready to start to reassemble the T-Case

Flyin6 · « **Reply #324 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:14:55 PM »

First up, I would be removing the races in preparation for new ones along with the new cone bearings

Flyin6 · « **Reply #325 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:16:13 PM »

I knocked the old races out with a punch, then tapped the new ones home with this aluminum seal/bearing install tool

Flyin6 · « **Reply #326 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:18:04 PM »

That was the idler gear, the big ole' boy that sits right in the middle of things. It would be going in first.

Next the shift rail seals were pried out and new ones installed

Flyin6 · « **Reply #327 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:20:27 PM »

Then I loosely assembled the two cone bearings into their new races along with the spacer and shim on the inside, then worked that into the case, and tapped the idler pin through everything. To my pleasant surprise, it all fit first time!

The nut was then tightened and that part is done

Flyin6 · « **Reply #328 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:22:31 PM »

With time running out, it was time to mix the Acrylic enamel and spray the hanging parts which will be going onto the T-Case in a little bit. And that concluded my brief interlude with this not so perplexing Transfer case.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #329 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:24:36 PM »

Well for tonight's installment, I am going to show you how to assemble a NP205 the wrong way. I would have scrapped this installment altogether, however the bearing replacement, shift rails and some other things are correct, and because I want you to see that things can fit in the wrong hole and look like they belong there.

I used the FSM and my aux laptop which is going to become a part of square D in the future. Here it is displaying a link showing the rebuilding of another NP205

Flyin6 · « **Reply #330 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:25:48 PM »

To finish off the idler gear and shaft installation, the cap was set in place with a gasket and sealer, then tightened

Flyin6 · « **Reply #331 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:27:25 PM »

Next are the shift rails...so far so good. The long one gets installed first

Flyin6 · « **Reply #332 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:29:02 PM »

Then the shift fork slides onto the shaft as you push it deeper into the case. It only goes in one way, and I think I had to learn that lesson about 4 times

Flyin6 · « **Reply #333 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:31:33 PM »

Next I swapped out the old bearing for a new one on what I thought was the forward output shaft. This is actually the input shaft from the transmission, but I managed to get it into the wrong hole. It needs to go in before the following shift fork

Flyin6 · « **Reply #334 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:34:21 PM »

The bearings I installed all had an extra ball or two. This one had 2 extra rollers and had steel cages, instead of the plastic cages on the old bearings, These definitely have a greater capacity!

Showing the position of the second shift fork before installation of the incorrect gear

Flyin6 · « **Reply #335 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:35:46 PM »

The shift rails are actually in correctly, but the input gear is now residing where the front output needs to be...OUCH!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #336 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:36:47 PM »

Input shaft where the front output needs to be...WRONG!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #337 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:38:10 PM »

These roll pins pin the shift fork to the sliding shaft. This would be the first of many times of my installing, then removing, then installing once again!!!!!!!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #338 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:39:06 PM »

Here you can see the output shaft bearing. Again it has an extra ball and a steel cage...better part!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #339 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:40:08 PM »

And it fits here:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #340 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:41:28 PM »

The output gear is a stack up of parts. These three go in first followed by the larger gear unit.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #341 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:44:47 PM »

Here's the rest of that stack of gears, that is all wrong for where it is going to be (temporarily) installed.

I had to break it down to replace about a hundred roller bearings on the inside. I held them in place with assembly lube while stacking everything back together.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #342 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:45:45 PM »

New rollers finding their new home:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #343 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:46:54 PM »

I used a new better snap ring

Flyin6 · « **Reply #344 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:48:04 PM »

And here it is sitting in the wrong hole! It needs to be opposite of what you are looking at!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #345 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:49:39 PM »

The new bearing retainer gets a new seal and is clearly larger than the spindly factory one

Flyin6 · « **Reply #346 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:50:41 PM »

And here it is installed (Temporarily) as I was just about to figure out I put both shafts in the wrong holes!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #347 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:52:53 PM »

Well it was at this point when I test fitted the output shaft yoke and found it was way bigger than the splines...WHAT? THE THING SHRANK!

No, it's in the wrong hole(s). With 30 min to shower time prior to busting out to go feed the homeless, I pulled it all apart and walked out one angry not so young man.

And that is the end of a very dysfunctional build day 194!

BobbyB · « **Reply #348 on:** December 01, 2014, 10:05:00 PM »

Yea, I'll pass on that.

JR · « **Reply #349 on:** December 01, 2014, 11:20:15 PM »

I think I laid mine out even though it looked easy enough.

Nice on the plastic. I have a regular formed keyboard cover on my garage Laptop.