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Messages - ceelibs
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1
« on: October 09, 2015, 06:55:50 PM »
The pump or injectors are just putting out way too much fuel. After maybe 5 minutes of running, OK at idle, but missing like Obamas real identity while reving. Now it does rev up a bunch now, and it wouldn't do that before, so I am moving in the right direction.
Under the exhaust pipe everywhere there is a junction, I got little burned black puddles of fuel
what color is the smoke, black or white/gray? a video would help but it sounds like either the pump timing is retarded or your sucking air in the fuel feed to the inj pump.
Smoke is white...it's fuel. Bit of wet black in the tailpipe, but it's unburned fuel.
I'd start by getting a jug of clean diesel and placing the feed line for the lift pump in it (effectively bypassing the rest of the fuel system) and see if the problem improves/goes away. If it goes away you have a supply/air leak problem between the tank and lift pump. If it's the same I'd start by checking the pump timing but delivery valves can also cause white smoke/popping.
Talk to me about these delivery valves
I purchased this engine which was rebuilt by another for his nephew. The builder is a Cat diesel mechanic who knows this engine. He said the delivery valves are laser cut and it has a #5 fuel delivery plate. That may sound good, but introduces the likelihood of errors.
With my knowing a bit more than a novice about the 6BT, I'm guessing he has the pump timing off since it is popping on acceleration and idles like a stocker, although it puts out white smoke even at idle. So either/or, too much fuel, or it's being introduced at the wrong time (Timing)
I'll go off and hunt down delivery valve info.
I feel I am very close to solving this mystery!
I'm no p-pump expert by any means as all of my Cummins experience has been with my own truck which is still ve pumped. That said I do know that modifying (laser cutting) the delivery valves is a way to improve fuel delivery in a p-pump, I also know that unlike a ve pump, when you mess with del valves on a p-pump the pump should be bench calibrated to set the fuel delivery of all the valves so they are equal, IOW the del valves on a p-pump are adjustable where on a ve pump they are not. I'd still start with the simple stuff like verifying that the fuel,supply is air free and the timing is set properly (p-pumps like around 16-17 degree's as a good starting point from what I've read).
2
« on: October 09, 2015, 06:06:25 PM »
The pump or injectors are just putting out way too much fuel. After maybe 5 minutes of running, OK at idle, but missing like Obamas real identity while reving. Now it does rev up a bunch now, and it wouldn't do that before, so I am moving in the right direction.
Under the exhaust pipe everywhere there is a junction, I got little burned black puddles of fuel
what color is the smoke, black or white/gray? a video would help but it sounds like either the pump timing is retarded or your sucking air in the fuel feed to the inj pump.
Smoke is white...it's fuel. Bit of wet black in the tailpipe, but it's unburned fuel.
I'd start by getting a jug of clean diesel and placing the feed line for the lift pump in it (effectively bypassing the rest of the fuel system) and see if the problem improves/goes away. If it goes away you have a supply/air leak problem between the tank and lift pump. If it's the same I'd start by checking the pump timing but delivery valves can also cause white smoke/popping.
3
« on: October 09, 2015, 06:21:16 AM »
The pump or injectors are just putting out way too much fuel. After maybe 5 minutes of running, OK at idle, but missing like Obamas real identity while reving. Now it does rev up a bunch now, and it wouldn't do that before, so I am moving in the right direction.
Under the exhaust pipe everywhere there is a junction, I got little burned black puddles of fuel
what color is the smoke, black or white/gray? a video would help but it sounds like either the pump timing is retarded or your sucking air in the fuel feed to the inj pump.
4
« on: September 28, 2015, 06:56:44 AM »
Have you thought about going back to a stock lift pump with an electric inline pusher? Seems to be a viable option for where your engine sits power wise. Did you block off the stock pump? I don't remember the specifics of your engine build. I've read on some competition diesel sites that people have run the stock lift pump up to 585hp. I don't think I would run it that high without some help though. That's like people getting 450hp out of the stock HX35. It can be done.....once or twice for a dyno run.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I do have the stocker, brand new in fact
But with that tiny 5/16" outlet it looks more suited to my DR-650 motorcycle!
there are tons of trucks running around making great power with only the mechanical lift pump, and its simple as a rock. IMHO I wouldnt bother with any electric pump, esp with Square D being a critical use vehicle....two pennies and all.
5
« on: September 08, 2015, 06:53:53 AM »
There is a kit but DIY for OD without any real electronics has been done. I would have to research it but it comes off the valve body when in 3rd gear and uses a pressure switch with a relay. In 3rd gear the pressure raises with speed is how it is supposed to work. You could also have a switch in the OD system so you could arm or disable it as needed.
I have the same tranny and is another reason I am anxious to see how the 46R does, vs going to a 47r for alot more $$$$!!
is this what your thinking of?
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm
6
« on: September 08, 2015, 06:51:58 AM »
There is a kit but DIY for OD without any real electronics has been done. I would have to research it but it comes off the valve body when in 3rd gear and uses a pressure switch with a relay. In 3rd gear the pressure raises with speed is how it is supposed to work. You could also have a switch in the OD system so you could arm or disable it as needed.
I have the same tranny and is another reason I am anxious to see how the 46R does, vs going to a 47r for alot more $$$$!!
is this what your thinking of?
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm
8
« on: January 28, 2015, 07:29:00 AM »
Weld I will!
OK good news and bad news
Good news is the core support is finished and painted as of this moment
Bad news is there is no way possible to mount the AC Condensor on the core support
The 1st gen truck was all compacted and had a short "Nose"
Within the confines of that snout was a radiator, which was not as big as this monster 2nd gen thing I have used. It had a smallish condenser wedged in between the radiator and a smallish intercooler that again, was about 1/3 as large as the thing I am using.
So it's just physics and real estate. No condenser in the core, which means I am going to have to get rather inventive and maybe stick it in one of the fender wells, or perhaps onto the bottom of the hood, or even on top of the topper...dunno yet
So, here is the final fitting of the IC which fits rather well I think
What about modifying the o.e. grill or making one yourself? Not too many other suitable places to mount a condenser and still have it get the needed airflow, theres also the size of it (which, if your going to convert the a/c to 135a refrigerant is marginally sized to begin with...btdt...oh and if your doing a 134a retrofit you might want to look into a parallel flow condesner, they are more efficient and are avail in the aftermarket...rock auto has them, just look in the part description, also a couple good r12-134a conversion threads on dtr and cuminsforum).
9
« on: November 07, 2014, 10:48:06 AM »
My service lit is showing the front clutch stackup as follows
steel/dis/steel/disc/steel/disc/reaction plate. clutch stackups can vary according to the unit but it looks like either way a steel goes against the pressure plate. are you running one of the thinner pressure plates designed to allow for more frictions/steels in the assembly?
page 577 shows the clearance for the OD unit, you dont need the special tool, just a known flat bar of a given thickness. the special tool is .5 in thick so use the specs provided but substitute whatever thickness your "special tool" is. IIRC I used the shank of a prybar (it was the only thing I had that would span across the case). It is a tricky measurment I`ll admit.
One more thing, I dont see an alignment shaft in the OD assembly as it was going back together in the press, you will need to have the splines in there all aligned in order to get the OD unit back onto the output shaft, and that giant honkin spring needs to be compressed in order for those splines to be free to align them. I used my old intermediate shaft and cut it down in length a bit to fit in the press (I put in a new int shaft due to the 5 pinion front planetary having diff splines than the alum 4 pinion deal requiring the new int shaft).
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