Author Topic: OverLanding Camper Build (Read 74861 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #750 on:** February 01, 2020, 08:44:01 PM »

Got both sides of the top EPDM glued down. That Dicor can be tricky to work with. when both sides are wet, the rubber will not stick. However as the glue cures a little the adhesion picks up a bunch. So the trick is to keep going back after it over a couple of hours

Flyin6 · « **Reply #751 on:** February 01, 2020, 08:45:35 PM »

Piddling around, I screwed a piece of aluminum stock onto the inside of the electrical compartment latch to get a very positive engagement

Flyin6 · « **Reply #752 on:** February 01, 2020, 08:47:42 PM »

I went over the whole body again covering whatever holes were not blended in and touching up any areas that showed a defect. The front was still not perfect, so it got some bondo too

Flyin6 · « **Reply #753 on:** February 01, 2020, 08:49:25 PM »

While that was curing, I got after the main electrical panel where I will control things

I created a box that has the panel front cut into the face.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #754 on:** February 01, 2020, 08:52:00 PM »

So, that will have to set up overnight, so next, the faceplate was created after tracing out holes for the inverter controller, Solar panel charge controller, four switches, a multifunction outlet and a reading lamp

Flyin6 · « **Reply #755 on:** February 01, 2020, 08:52:55 PM »

The whole thing got a coat of bondo to fill in the imperfections

Flyin6 · « **Reply #756 on:** February 01, 2020, 08:54:51 PM »

About two thirds of the camper panels got sanded to smooth out the panels and blend in what may be the final coat of bondo

Flyin6 · « **Reply #757 on:** February 01, 2020, 08:56:48 PM »

You may have noticed that I covered the polyurethane seam sealer with two coats of bedliner material to seal that

My little assistant never stopped asking questions!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #758 on:** February 01, 2020, 09:01:07 PM »

Then two more coats of exterior paint. I am nearing completion of body prep prior to spraying the urethane rhino liner top coat

So time to ask for some opinions.

Regarding the color of the camper, I have tintable base material which can be made into any color I can imagine. I either want to coat it in the 2020 Toyota, "Army Green" color, or go with the same color that's on the burb, the dark gray metallic.

I was all gung ho on the green, but it would look pretty tasteful mirroring the color of the truck. Make it look like a complete camping/overland system

Opinions?

Sammconn · « **Reply #759 on:** February 01, 2020, 09:29:06 PM »

I was thinking the green too, but if you can match the burb that would have my vote.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #760 on:** February 02, 2020, 12:33:59 AM »

I know it’s a long shot but tint isn’t going to match perfect. Any way to tint smaller portion to see how close the match is?

I like color matched but if it’s to far from identical it will look silly I think.

So maybe green is the solution. Or. Pink for breast cancer

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stlaser · « **Reply #761 on:** February 02, 2020, 07:05:30 AM »

Assuming you won’t get the tint right or close enough go for a complimentary color.

Dave, pink is an interesting consideration. Not surprised it came from a guy named Dave. Begs the question though did momma give you instructions to paint your trailer pink? Thinking maybe you were hoping Don would do it so you could be twinning or something silly.....

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #762 on:** February 02, 2020, 10:53:14 AM »

Nope mine is pre finished aluminum, White. I did try for an American flag wrap but she said no.

Grey floor, grey carpet walls and I won’t be doing any pink.

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #763 on:** February 02, 2020, 11:09:21 AM »

I think the color can be made to be an exact match, although, the texture would be really different.

To tint this stuff, you have the paint store mix up some urethane base coat minus the additives that build volume. That concentrates the color pigment. They you mix a few ounces of the color into the bottle when you add part "B" and shake it all up.

Since last night, I had an idea of a two color scheme using the burb silver toward the front of the camper and breaking to the Army Green toward the back. Playing with that idea. Along with the black doors/window/top/trim and maybe some accent color somewhere, I think I could come up with something interesting. I'll play with the idea, but tending toward matching it to the burb for the "Integrated system" look to them hooked together.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #764 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:19:41 PM »

Married the electrical control center to the face panel. The photo makes the panel look messed up, but I think its the lighting, as it looks fine.
The components are mounted as well

Flyin6 · « **Reply #765 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:21:53 PM »

After separating them, the box was mounted to the inside wall. It will stand proud of the wall about 2" once the insulation and panel is installed

Flyin6 · « **Reply #766 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:24:22 PM »

The camper will sport two 100 watt Renogy PVC panels. After assembling the feet to the panel. I glued a patch of rubber to the roof side to keep any gauling from happening.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #767 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:25:47 PM »

They were attached to the right side of the roof straddling the central beam

Flyin6 · « **Reply #768 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:27:20 PM »

The wires will pass through the roof into that central beam which has an accessible cavity designed to hold these and other wiring

Flyin6 · « **Reply #769 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:29:59 PM »

Hooking up the wiring is easy. Male ends (+) and female ends make mixing up the two impossible until you get to the end of the wires which are identical. I marked mine with masking tape to ensure correct connections at the control panel

Using this coupler joins both panels together as one

Flyin6 · « **Reply #770 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:31:44 PM »

I did manage to connect all the wiring but forgot to route it through the roof cap waterproof fixture, so I'll get to redo some work tomorrow

Flyin6 · « **Reply #771 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:33:22 PM »

Next up, I cut out the roof fan access and set that in place for wiring, but did not fasten it down just yet. I need some sort of sealer which I don't have to make all of that waterproof

Flyin6 · « **Reply #772 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:34:32 PM »

The wiring is starting to get fitted

Flyin6 · « **Reply #773 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:37:02 PM »

The temp sensor measures battery temperature. Apparently the solar charger looks at the bat temp as a function of charging. I taped that sensor to the side of the battery using aluminum tape.

I'm working hard to keep this electrical compartment cleaned and organized. So far so good, although four more circuits have been added today

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #774 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:38:05 PM »

Yunpo Butyl Sealant Tape 4M/13Ft Waterproof Butyl Rubber Sealant for Car Headlamps Window Door Windshield Butyl Tape Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRXRF9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hBooEbPJ60W4H

This is what I put around my windows. Not sure why it wouldn’t work for you.

Can you explain how you attached them to the roof? Did you use the second layer of rubber and screw into the roof or glue the rubber on?

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #775 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:38:24 PM »

The upper device is a blue tooth device which connects the soral charger to my phone so that I can keep a watch on battery condition even when I'm not in the camper

Flyin6 · « **Reply #776 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:42:11 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on February 03, 2020, 10:38:05 PM

Yunpo Butyl Sealant Tape 4M/13Ft Waterproof Butyl Rubber Sealant for Car Headlamps Window Door Windshield Butyl Tape Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRXRF9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hBooEbPJ60W4H

This is what I put around my windows. Not sure why it wouldn’t work for you.

Can you explain how you attached them to the roof? Did you use the second layer of rubber and screw into the roof or glue the rubber on?

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Rubber pads are glued to the feet, then two #8 X 1" pan head screws attach each foot to the roof. I plan to glue some 3/4" blocks to the underside of the roof so that the screws will engage those in addition to the thin roof panel

Good call on the butyl tape! Forgot about that

Will run over to the RV store in the morning and score some along with some of that liquid rubber to seal the roof fan and screw heads

Thanks!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #777 on:** February 03, 2020, 10:48:03 PM »

We used to use a product called shoe goo for skateboarding things. Seemed to seal stuff really well. I also thought since it’s rubber. What about the rubber glue that you use on a bike tire tube to patch a hole. What about that as seem glue?

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #778 on:** February 04, 2020, 09:21:21 AM »

https://www.campingworld.com/maintain-your-rv/rv-hardware-maintenance-repair/repair-maintenance/sealants-patches-caulk

For seams and bolt protrusions.

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Bob Smith · « **Reply #779 on:** February 04, 2020, 04:09:26 PM »

Eternabond tape around the top of the vent flange and then cover with a self leveling lap sealer that is made for your roof material. Do not use silicone sealer. Self leveling lap sealer works really good on the roof, but use non sag lap sealer on vertical surfaces. Lap sealer does need to be checked a few times a year and touched up if showing cracking or pulling away from seams. You can apply over the old as long as you remove any loose material first.
And yes a good butyl strip between the flange on the vent and the roofing is important. The eternabond tape over the top edge is just good insurance and is not mandatory.

JR · « **Reply #780 on:** February 04, 2020, 05:25:23 PM »

The two 100watt panels on my container keep the batteries up easy (two 6v AGM) but they do not like even a moderate 800watt load (5 cup coffee pot), but they are older. They handle all my lights and chargers easy. 14.4 all day and 12.6 at rest.

Should run something on that setup to see what the battery/inverter will do so if you do need another battery you find out.

Sammconn · « **Reply #781 on:** February 04, 2020, 07:45:20 PM »

I have what supposedly calculates to 10 kW of storage.
8 Trojan T 105 batteries.
1100 watts panels connected.

I can run my cabin like a house for one day in the summer with no sun.
One day in winter with a few hours of charger time @ 24 volt 25 amps.
Coffee microwave water plant etc. Like a house zero care about power.

Temperature is huge when we talk -30. Less so in heat, however heat is not good either above 80 or so.

200W of panel will maintain and run a lot on one battery but not AC for an hour I would guess.

Suggestion of a load test is a good idea.

Farmer Jon · « **Reply #782 on:** February 04, 2020, 07:52:33 PM »

What battery monitor are you using? So you know how full the batteries are.

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #783 on:** February 04, 2020, 08:58:23 PM »

My solar company owner brother in-law really wants me to buy these $500 batteries for my trailer

https://www.centennialbatteries.com/centennial-battery-cb6-400-6-volt-400-amp-hour-sealed-lead-acid-agm-battery

All of this solar stuff is way over my head

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JR · « **Reply #784 on:** February 04, 2020, 09:11:20 PM »

AGM or lead acid still don't like under 50% use. AGM are good because they are sealed, no fumes but do not like heavy loads. LA don't mind heavy loads, but you get fumes and spill worries.

Wish the optima was as good as they used to be.

For full use of the power there look more to lithium. Lots of good info on youtube. High $ is not always the best.

That's great out of those batteries Sam. You inverter and use has a lot to do with it too.

Sammconn · « **Reply #785 on:** February 04, 2020, 10:06:34 PM »

And I have mama trained not to deep cycle them.
24.3 is where the charger and generator is turned on.
Which is still fairly deep into state of charge.

I believe the ones I have are good for 500 cycles to 30% or about 23.6 volts.
The higher charge they say the more cycles they can take.

April 30 this year will be three years on these batteries. 1095 days, gosh would have to be close to 500 cycles I suppose. Anything beyond there is a bonus in my eyes as they have been used hard a lot whether hot or cold.

Three years was also my calculated break even point as well on the whole system. That included a new generator as mine has a bazillion hours on it and replacement was on my mind. I had even been shopping for one but held off in hopes this worked as well as it did.

But alas. Here we go inadvertently DOTing up a camper build.

I think I’ve only burned 5, 5 gallon cans of gas in the generator since turning this on.
Was burning one a weekend prior or more. Stale gas is now my problem rather than do I have enough.

JR · « **Reply #786 on:** February 04, 2020, 10:25:00 PM »

Can you get alcohol free gas there? I have some OLD gas in the TH with stabilizer, still runs fine.

Sammconn · « **Reply #787 on:** February 04, 2020, 10:34:19 PM »

Yes. I only buy alcohol free. Spensive but I don’t want the ethanol.
Stabilizer helps but the Honda I2000 or whatever the heck it is doesn’t allow running the carb dry. Unless you run it out totally which can take hours. The premium is good for a few months alone and longer with stabilizer. I just switch the Jerry’s out for boat or sled to keep the bulk fresh.

Found an interesting battery calculator on the Trojan site just now.
I know what my new batteries will be next time. 4K+ cycles to boot 8 year warranty.

http://www.batterysizingcalculator.com

JR · « **Reply #788 on:** February 05, 2020, 12:47:53 AM »

Heck, the 2 cart batteries I got from Costco are just 1 year (interstate)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #789 on:** February 05, 2020, 10:32:02 AM »

Quote from: Bob/OlallaWa on February 04, 2020, 04:09:26 PM

Eternabond tape around the top of the vent flange and then cover with a self leveling lap sealer that is made for your roof material. Do not use silicone sealer. Self leveling lap sealer works really good on the roof, but use non sag lap sealer on vertical surfaces. Lap sealer does need to be checked a few times a year and touched up if showing cracking or pulling away from seams. You can apply over the old as long as you remove any loose material first.
And yes a good butyl strip between the flange on the vent and the roofing is important. The eternabond tape over the top edge is just good insurance and is not mandatory.

What you said Bob. Got some tubes of self leveling lap sealer going on today

Its another dicor product like the adhesive, only a sealer

Flyin6 · « **Reply #790 on:** February 05, 2020, 10:34:33 AM »

Quote from: Sammconn on February 04, 2020, 07:45:20 PM

I have what supposedly calculates to 10 kW of storage.
8 Trojan T 105 batteries.
1100 watts panels connected.

I can run my cabin like a house for one day in the summer with no sun.
One day in winter with a few hours of charger time @ 24 volt 25 amps.
Coffee microwave water plant etc. Like a house zero care about power.

Temperature is huge when we talk -30. Less so in heat, however heat is not good either above 80 or so.

200W of panel will maintain and run a lot on one battery but not AC for an hour I would guess.

Suggestion of a load test is a good idea.

I think I'll be on the generator when running the AC. Simple enough, deploy it and pull the starter lanyard then instant AC

Flyin6 · « **Reply #791 on:** February 05, 2020, 10:36:11 AM »

Quote from: Farmer Jon on February 04, 2020, 07:52:33 PM

What battery monitor are you using? So you know how full the batteries are.

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I have a couple of them Jon. The Renogy panel controller you see monitors several parameters of the battery. I have another separate independent battery monitor I have not talked about yet, that's coming up

Flyin6 · « **Reply #792 on:** February 05, 2020, 08:05:20 PM »

Wiring is coming together. But before one can wire stuff, that same one needs to install stuff. That being said, in go the taillights.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #793 on:** February 05, 2020, 08:06:32 PM »

Here is that putty stuff used to seal things added to the top of campers

Flyin6 · « **Reply #794 on:** February 05, 2020, 08:08:06 PM »

Slap it down, lay your fan or _____ on top, smush it down, screw it down, then trim the excess

Flyin6 · « **Reply #795 on:** February 05, 2020, 08:12:03 PM »

I was careful to slice up the rubber where I trimmed because I want to always be searching for pesky leaks!

Here is the Dicor product used to seal everything to rubber. Squeeze it on and it will slowly flow out some and make for a decent installation.

That stuff will stick to your T-shirt and chin, so just be prepared. I think working around this stuff is a lot like flipping a peanut butter sandwich with one side buttered. It will always fall peanut butter side down. You won't be able to catch it until you fumble it onto your chest, lap and one or both knees.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #796 on:** February 05, 2020, 08:13:41 PM »

Next I installed the second outside "porch" light and reinstalled the one by the door. They were later wired into the fuse panel

Flyin6 · « **Reply #797 on:** February 05, 2020, 08:14:26 PM »

A few more wires and it remains more or less organized

Flyin6 · « **Reply #798 on:** February 05, 2020, 08:15:18 PM »

The inside is staying organized, but I am accumulating some wires...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #799 on:** February 05, 2020, 08:17:37 PM »

Those movable dogs are making short work of creating wiring and keeping it organized.

I took the control panel, fitted two eyelets to the backside, then suspended it adjacent to the box. From this point I started connecting things.

It wasn't long before the PV panels actually started charging the battery from the shop lights!