REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: Flyin6 on October 05, 2014, 03:18:27 PM
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It's difficult to call the exact point where this project changes or turns the corner between the phase it was in to the next evolution.
With the adding of the Ruff-Stuff shock brackets, double shear hard core off road parts, I'll call the ball right here.
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The first order of business was to weld the inside piece to the body with the proper clearance
I used one of my many mock-up shocks to get that right
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Then it was welded to the housing in as close to the factory position as I could make it
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The rear axle is starting to look like something again.
This new setup will have nothing hanging below the tubes unlike the factory snag-o-matic setup. It will have a rear anti sway bar, a traction bar, and double shear and protected lower shock mounts.
Should be Hyundai proof!
The downward tilt is intentional, to match the factory geometry
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All right you worthless lot, let's get some hot roddin done here, so I can go get some extra beauty sleepin!
Today was supposed to be brake build and axle reassembly day. Well, should the truth be known, Tuesday was that day, Wednesday, axle installation, and today, door of fender pullin and fixin' on day
Life continues despite the plans we make for it I guess!
So anyhow, I assembled the other backing plate onto the axle tube using the bead of RTV
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The concept was to get all these boxes into the trash so I could enjoy a couple weeks of jap maple leaves before the ice age commeth
Wasn't to happen, but I pulled the boxes thinking...
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The new wheel cylinders were rust-o-matic gray iron, so I gave em' a coat of J Deere's finest!
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They look new don't they?
Well, that's because they are!
Here's where it got interesting.
You see those wheel cylinders are not all that is necessary to connect those hydraulic cylinders to the brake shoe.
Nope, it tales a piston "strut" sticking out fo either end to get that done.
Funny thing is mine went into the bowels of the great white and green garbage truck! Sill me, I was thinking the parts kit to replace EVERYTHING hardware related contained these pieces of hardware. I guess something in their nature precludes them from hardware status LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE in the kit...So bottom line is I was suddenly short (Litterally) 4 strut pieces/parts.
I soon found out that these little cylinder lookin things with a slot in the end are not carried in any parts store. Neither can they even reference them. It's as if all that were ever needed were already built and there is no possibility that they could ever possibly rust of corrode in the ultra
clean environment of a brake drum!
Not to be defeated so easily, I ordered 4 which an on the ball parts guy was able to conjure up some spirits of great mechanics and parts guys past and locate 4 of the things. Get this, all four are coming in from 4 different states!
Anyway I bolted in the parking brake lever.
It's probably in backwards, I'll figure that out when somehow nothing else fits right!
But I have this to help me along again!
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It's real, it's old, and it still works, kinda like me, not so much Duane, but me for sure!
First I replaced the front pinion seal...Should have done this when I had it apart, but that would have been too easy...Made too much sense!
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10 min job. all that mess got cleaned sanded smooth and put back together with precision hammer blows!
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With that done. back to the brakes
Here's the parts that almost got reinstalled:
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stuck this on to get some color going on in that sea of gray
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Then I started running brake lines
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That rubber hose is a stock (new) dodge part. Fit like freckles on a redhead!
Then I got all creative and said to myself, "Self, I should drill and tap some holes in this thing to mount some clamps to!"
So I did
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I can't wait to get Shawn's cover onto that axle and really make it all Purdy!
Earlier today, I went over to a truck repair shop and had them make me up the new U-Bolts for the U-bolt flip I am doing when the axle assembly is reinstalled
They are 3.5" diameter, 5/8" X 13"
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Just getting back from a show at a local church...
The guy who did the sand table drawing...Joe _____
He did several presentations and all I can say is his work is divinely inspired. So amazing, you have to witness it in first person to believe it!
Anyway, Let's post up todays snail pace work.
The goal was to get the brakes all the way to axles installed, but I ran out of minutes and was caught short!
First let me start by saying adieu to my faithful old Fuji camera. That thing followed me all over hells half acre. Lived in my helmet bag in Iraq and Afghanistan. Saw countries all over several continents too numerous to mention. From what I can recall and piece together, that camera is responsible for some 17,000 photos stored here alone!
At the end of it's life, shown here the batteries would only last an hour on a full charge...The lens was pock-marked with welding spatter, and the battery lid was held closed with tape!
Goodbye faithful Fuji-son
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Finally got around to painting the axle bolts
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Had to make another parts run today to fetch these little wheel cylinder feet
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Next I finished running and mounting the new brake lines
Nate, I moved the line on the drivers side...Meet with your approval?
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Then the brake buildup, including the new parking brake cable assembly
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Yes, that's high temp grease
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The hub received a new seal before being installed
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Then that piece went on and was tightened with this strange looking socket
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Then the axle
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I had just started on the other side when I got the call to cease and desist operations and get ready for church. When the woman calls, I start hopping!
I hate that about myself!
Here's how far I got today
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmeyer414 View Post
fat fingers on a cell phone. sorry.
what is the new camera? did mr.fujison get a proper burial or did he just get the chunk?
Mr, Fuji-son will go out in style...
If I go down to the farm this weekend
I plan on putting him on a fence post
Then back off about 100 meters
Then using a single 168gr national match 7.62 boat tail fired from my M1A national Match Springfield...
Send Mr. Fuji-son out with a proper soldiers death!
Remember in my book, the picture of me holding the roll of 100mph tape shot in half by an AK? He took that shot!
The pic of the AK-47 modified rotor system...same thing
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Remember how my first laptop went out back in Kandahar?
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Got some more done and again, some parts came in and I installed them within hours of showing up at the door!
How cool (and different) is that!
Anyway, I finished building up the axle starting with the remaining brakes install
I brushed everything with the Shark Hide preservative. It is a strong thinner based material. It had softened some of the black which I managed to drag all over the pretty gray stuff...
Oh well, it did look pretty once, and now it's starting to look weathered already
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I followed that up with the remainder of the axle assembly
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Even though I had previously planned to install Shawn's excellent cover after bolting in the axle, I decided to stick it on now. I was anticipating the bolts I ordered to arrive tonight (Which they didn't) so I temporarily slapped on a few bolts to hold it in place while the RTV set up
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Next I started prepping up the parts to actually bolt the axle back to the springs.
I had the U-bolts already, but the mail man dropped off a box containing the spring plates from Ruff Stuff
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While all that was drying in the sun, I coated the U=bolts with the shark hide. It is all that is needed to keep those bolts looking good for hours, if not days!
No really, the stuff looks and works pretty well for a couple of years.
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Back to the axle, time to tidy everything up and ready it to slide in place under the truck.
I secured the parking brake cables and adjusted some brake lines
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Allowing some time for the shark hide to properly dry, I started disassembly of the front hubs
I need to have the rotors turned and trued up and convert the hubs from 1/2" studs to 9/16 long studs
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The hide dried, some chicken got fried, and a skunk died (really!)
So I decided to slap in that big sterling tonight
Here it is going in:
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It's in!
Torqued and hangin
Now if the driveshaft still fits....
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Well, close but no Ce-gar!
The factory shaft is about 1/2" too long!
Pretty close, but it needs to be shortened
I'll drop it off for the surgery tomorrow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkami712 View Post
Where's the evening update? I need my littercher, can't finish your book too fast otherwise I'll have nothing enjoyable to read!
Funny...
OK, here you are:
Today was a bunch of running around and a little work
Duane and I went up to Cincinnati driveline, a driveshaft and hydraulics shop with a big selection of mandrel 3",4",5",6" mandrel bends for semi trucks.
I was sort of starting to think shorkel...but I'm drifting again.
So I decided to have them do the whole schbang on that driveshaft so's eyes kan put it rite bak in thar wit know problem whatsoever!
Needing a fix of proper wrenchin myself, I had to do something.
I thought about my PRI (Parts reduction initiative) and my hawkish eyes fell upon the shiney painted stuff that is starting to crowd up the bed of the truck.
So's eyes grabs up a sway bar and git to wrenchin'
Here's the situation before the frontal assault of shiny new parts:
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The reinstallation of the factory F350 sway bar was straight forward. I purchased some replacement rubber bushings which fit like they were made just for this application!
I decided to stick with rubber because this is no canyon racing slot car and I feel a bit of give will trump razor sharp handling, considering we're talking about a crossover vehicle here (Cross between a truck and a tractor)
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The alignment with the bar ends and the frame rails is about perfect!
All I'll need to do to get the end links to connect up will be to fab up some simple "L" brackets with a hole for a simple factory single shear mounting
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I took the original end links which had been previously painted and fitted them with some new hardware and just like that, they are almost ready to make leaning and rolling over in turns a thing of the past!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasRedNeck View Post
Yeah, actually 11K aint bad. Between the built tranny and injectors in my 2001 I have 12K in it not counting the CP3, etc etc. The more I think about it the more I need to sell that money pit. I like the mechanical injector SHTF EMP proof concept of what you have going. Carry on sir!
I like both
And that's why I have both concepts going on. The D-Max is by far the more capable vehicle, but any shenanigans by the N Koreans or Chinese and all that electronic stuff is just in the way. Good to have a farm-all tractor wrapped in a Dodge chassis to handle the worst case scenario.
The more I look into these 12 valves and the horsepower you can get out of them vs cost, we ought to just shut our traps and observe. The mech injection Cummins crowd have something going on.
My truck comes with 160 HP/ 400 torque. You can adjust the pump to add about 90 horsepower. You add a fuel pin @ $150 and a gov spring @ $25 and you added another 40 or so and RPM for days. A turbo and injectors adds maybe $1600 and you are making more power than a LML and with 20+ MPG
One guy I know pours the used engine oil right into his fuel tank when he changes it! THey run on anything that you can fool the motor into thinking is fuel.
Motor mounts are $15 ea., everything is just cheap. And there isn't a maze of wires everywhere. Plus the thing without all the modern crap which we really don't need, barely weighs 6,000 lbs! That's amazing...Our LML's weigh in excess of 8,000! Mine is 8700!
Yup, these 12 valves at a minimum make great backup vehicles, and for the time being, the 1st gen trucks are largely overlooked because they don't have inline P-Pumps which are capable of 600-700 or more horsepower easily!
__________________
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Got a call, the driveshaft is done, but guess what?
It was bent!
Cincy driveline said they had to straighten it when they balanced it, so in the final analysis, I'm darned happy I had them do it. I'll go up and pick it up tomorrow and get a new coat of paint on it. Should have it mounted by Saturday...Another foot down field!
My goal for today was just to get the front axle disassembled, hub out and evaluate those parts. Did that and moved on from there
Here's how far I had already gotten on the hub
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The second pic shows my discovery, a large outer snap ring holding the hub locking mechanism in the hub. With that out it was a straight forward removal deal
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8 studs actually pin the rotor to the hum, they are simply pulled or tapped into place.
I am upgrading from 1/2" up to 9/16" so I banged them out and separated the two units
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I ran the rotors over to O'Rileys auto parts to be turned. While there we fished around until we came up with the new replacement stud. Old shank was .658", new shank is .677" so I'll open up the holes in the hub just a tad
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There's a whole bunch of additional holding power with those new studs, and since they are longer I can use a deep lug nut as well
Back to the front axle I continued tearing it down
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Leaving me with this:
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That will get cleaned and painted as well so the reassembled unit will look as good as it can.
Since the blast cabinet failed to function again, even after me fussing with it for longer than I cared to, I went to work with the wire cup on the big grinder, ultimately producing these:
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Then the rust converter went to work doing it's thing
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That stuff produces amazing results, don't you think?
Pics showing the current state of affairs in BDG (Big Don's Garage)
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You can see that I have made progress against the always growing stack of boxes. You can also see the jap maple...Isn't it pretty?
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Let's look into the future a little bit
Things to come:
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New everything for the brakes
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Parts of the soon to be traction/anti-wrap bar
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The fuel system needs to be totally upgraded.
Starting with the stock tank, it will get this sump, 3/8 fuel line, a fuel water separator, a cool lift pump from Cummins and a new larger injection pump line
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Here's that cool Cummins high volume, higher pressure lift pump.
Again the simple beauty of this design comes shining through. No electric motor, just a simple mechanical device and costs 1/3rd what we pay for a lift pump!
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This is how you remap the injection pump!
We pay an arm and a leg for a new program
12V Cummins guys buy this "Fuel pin" for less than $150. Same power increase as we enjoy and again, a simple steel mechanical unit!
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I went to pick up my driveshaft
You may remember my saying it was bent. A more accurate description would be warped. I was picking it up and now talking to Joe, the owner of Cincy Driveline and I was asking how it got bent. He was explaining how the engine torque likely did it.
That's when I did the , "Excuse me..." "Engine torque" You see the stocker only has 400 ft lbs. I am turning it up to double that like, next week.
I mention this and he started shaking his head. Then spending some time looking over the shaft.
This isn't going to work, he reports, asking around the shop if anyone knew they were building a 400 HP driveshaft.
The stock Dodge driveshaft is 3" in diameter, and as it turns out, is completely inadequate for what I am going to do with the motor.
He proceeded to show me the enormous driveshaft he thinks I need. It could easily eat my whole driveshaft and still have room for a couple of kia fenders.
He went on to discover that conversion 1410 to 1350 joint and said, now what's up with this...He clearly did not like it.
He's a good guy, so he says, just give him my freshly rebuilt unit and he will find a 1410 yoke for the sterling and build a 3.4" or 4" driveshaft with way more splines on the slip shaft and make it so that I won't have to ever fuss with it again.
So that's why the driveshaft is not going in this weekend like I thought...Oh well
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Well lets get some nasty stuff lookin pretty tonight!
I continued the front axle teardown:
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Ken, those roller bearings were in great shape. Looks as if someone packed the bearings somewhere along the way, the grease was everywhere and red in color...Not what I recall the Mopar guys at the stealership using.
Next the ganky axles came out.
Look at how big those are!
Any wonder why people seek out these Dana 60's!
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Rust, rust, rust
I hate the stuff!
Seems like the most common substance found on my truck!
I don't know if I'm winning or it is
But I'm willing to take on the fight
The drivers side was a bit of a pickle, but it yielded after some determined strikes with my mallet
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I got industrial on this rust and these parts.
Pulled out the sand pressure blaster
Unlike that polishing cabinet, the sand made quick work of the rust, my goggles, and a stray dog
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had the rotors trued up on a lathe...They too got the rust blast treatment
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I made quite the mess!
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The parts I coated up last night turned out good. I scuffed them up, cleaned them with solvent, and hung them up in the jungle for a coat of that Purdy Lycoming gray
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The freshly blasted parts were cleaned again with brake cleaner, allowed to dry, then coated with the rust converter
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The hanging jungle, once again populated by formerly nasty parts
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I went one shade darker on the paint, but I really can't tell
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Some of the parts got a coat of the John Deere blitz black, and some got the Lycoming gray
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Like before, everything got 3 coats of the paint
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I took the knuckle back down to bare steel and recoated it. I couldn't get to all of it before when I wire brushed it, this time I did a lot better!
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Dust is setting in!
If it gets much more, I'll have to scrap this project and start a new one!
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Now let's use the "look ahead machine" to see what is coming up for Square D
The brakes are going to get a lot simpler. The anti lock, malfunction prone weight adding crap is going the way of this summer's watermelons!
I'll need some tuneability for those big rear brakes, so I got this adj. proportioning valve
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More suspension stuff so I can hook things up!
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I'm adding a water separator in the new larger size fuel line. This little beauty was sub $40...all mechanical...simple...
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Got some more done today.
First I had to drill the front hubs and mount the new larger wheel studs
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I redrilled the hub so as to have an interference fit, stud to hub body. And interfere it did!
I had to resort to using the tried and true method of using an impact gun and a bunch of spare nuts to pull down the stud.
With this design, the stud actually pins the rotor to the wheel hub
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Using lots of both penetrating oil and 90 weight, it took quite some time to get all 16 studs pulled down tight
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Next up, the bearings were cleaned and repacked with grease
Then new seals were tapped into place. Finally, the front bearings were repacked and dropped onto their races
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The knuckles and axle housing were cleaned again, then the freshly painted axles slid home
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Then the top hat after some more grease
and the brake caliper bracket
I decided to leave the rotor splash guard off since it had a small rust hole in it. In hind sight I should have added it, so tomorrow, I will disassemble to this point and bolt it back on
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I smeared a little grease onto the nuts to weather proof them a little. Next the hub/rotor assembly was placed onto the spindle.
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Then all the various internal parts followed in sequence
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I repeated the process on the drivers side, only that's when I decided to bolt on the dust shield and to follow up on the right side tomorrow or Monday.
It's looking a lot better already!
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I'll start the update, but there is a pizza warming up in the oven that is going to cause a minor delay
I spent some more time sorting this drive shaft issue. I have definitely decided to build a much stronger shaft, but I want it to be 1410 all the way through.
I did manage to find a yoke which fit the Sterling that fit the 1410 joint as well.
Check out the size difference between it and the old 1350 spicer original (In black)
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OK, pizza operations complete, moving on...
So I test fitted the yoke and it was almost perfect. I say almost because the nut didn't have enough thread remaining to catch about the last thread. You see, way back when, Ford produced these Sterling axles with different length splines on the pinion gear. The yoke I found would fit a late 10.5" Sterling perfectly, however since the splines in this yoke are deeper, and I am using it with a pinion gear with the slightly shorter threads, I ended up with what you see in the pic.
I think it's fine, so I lock-tited it and tightened it down until I got good crush sleeve contact and started to feel resistance in the gear, then backed it off a tiny bit.
I'm calling it done and ordered the larger drive shaft to be built!
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Moving on, next I mounted the rear shocks.
I really like those Ruff Stuff shock mounts with their double shear and built in skid plate
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The bolts came in finally, so I can now button some things up, starting with Shawn's diff cover.
The plated body bolts are pretty high quality, I'm happy I found them!
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This time I used stainless frame bolts (With a built in washer) to secure the GLO rear axle cover
The axle was filled with 4 quarts of Valvoline full synthetic 75W-90
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Next, moving forward, I pulled the old rubber hood bumpers off and installed the new ones
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After pulling the right side front hub back off, and reinstalling that missing rotor splash shield, it was finally front brake installation time
Here's some of the lubricant products used on various parts of the calipers and pins that hold it all together
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With anti seize compound spread generously around, the calipers slid in like they were always meant to
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Sorry, Shawn, I didn't have a GLO sticker!
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So here's the SOB (State of Build) at the moment:
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Let me share some thoughts about this build
This truck is going to be extremely capable as an escape vehicle and off roader. It has a few weaknesses which I have been addressing as we come to them.
Talking to Beau over at WFO yesterday, when we started talking about the inherent poor ride characteristics of these trucks and why. Primarily, well, almost completely it's due to these trucks having a really short front leaf spring. That is good 1950's-60's technology, but is very much outdated and even presents limitations other than the poor ride.
So if we jumped into a buck board wagon on wood and steel rims being horse drawn, well we would still be leaving town, so the bottom line, getting off the "X" would be accomplished.
The Dodge with it's diving boards for suspension does that. You get out of Dodge so to speak, but you aren't going to be arriving anywhere rested!
However, if one replaces that front suspension with something that works better, then all that hard ride stuff is right out the window. Suddenly, you have a great riding truck that is old school mechanical reliable.
I was pondering the conversation and looking over the truck yestertag while I was working on it. There might be room for coil springs in there, and there is definitely room for Coil-overs in there to be sure.
Stick on a set of WFO's spiffy links and figure out whether it's coils or coil-overs and voila' One koul truck!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustoff 35 View Post
Good catch on the brake calipers! Bleeding the air out of the system may have taken a while...
Concur!
That was an outstanding catch
Can you imagine the frustration that just saved me?
I'm indebted to the man with the strange looking avatar!
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From Lbajo1
Don I have a question for you. Have you ever felt overwhelmed by a project? Like stopped and thought, wow what did I get my self in to? Was this whole thing even worth it?
It's just a question i want to know if you have ever been there. I have found my self in that position in couple times and felt confused lol.
Like I said I only ask this because you take your projects to a whole other level.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lbajo1 View Post
Don I have a question for you. Have you ever felt overwhelmed by a project? Like stopped and thought, wow what did I get my self in to? Was this whole thing even worth it?
It's just a question i want to know if you have ever been there. I have found my self in that position in couple times and felt confused lol.
Like I said I only ask this because you take your projects to a whole other level.
I say sincerely that if you think I take things to a whole other level, you have to see what my friend Duane does. His Cobra might arguably be one of the very best in this country. His garage project is text book. Yesterday, he was telling me how he lapped his new scope into it's mounts on his AR! I do OK I guess, but I'd have to say, he has achieved the masters level. Well in all things except for his poor choice in flying machines...nope he missed in that category!
I guess I sort of got there with the SAS Tundra. But with that one it was more like hitting a wall.
I needed more reliable power for it and was wanting to install a 6BT Cummins...Well, that didn't work so I recalibrated and thought about a 4BT Cummins. Well these are only 125 HP and for some reason cost an arm and a leg. Additionally I'd have to cut the firewall and move it aft and do a body lift so I threw in the towel and decided to either get a Cummins truck or convert a square fender Chevy to a 6BT.
Come to think about it, the Tac Topper project went from good idea to "Sorta stupid" as it rolled out. Some things were starting to look hacked out and I wasn't happy with how heavy it was getting. It seemed at that point that if I pushed ahead it would be the rough equivalent of trying to get Obama Care to work...Just wasn't going to happen
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Note: Folks this long multi part thread(s) is actually a much easier to read "Readers-Digest" version of the original which is hundreds (thousands) of posts longer. Some of what I did not post is somewhat relevant, but a lot is not.
In the interest of saving time and actually getting all this transferred to my site, you get the easier to read picture version!
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From FBJR:
Don, why not just go to softer or longer front springs?
Keep it simple and not re-inventing the wheel with a coil over front and all that goes with it. You could even flatten them out some or stretch them by just moving the mounts. Maybe something "over the counter" for the springs meaning repairing or replacing in bad times is far easier.
Yeah, hands "on" per say is not as easy as it was say 20 years ago when the Sgt would only grunt as I went by dragging some banger. Of course that was when I worked inside
Slow down on the dmax build!! I am only to page 630 So much input I would have like to ad at the time, but I haven't spoiled the end.
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Yesterday I decided to take the truck bed up to a chemical stripper operation in Cincy instead of messing with it myself.
To be able to do that, I needed my trailer back.
That trailer was getting covered up with pieces of scrap steel and that old Dana 70. So I hauled it over to the scrap yard yesterday and they paid me $125!!!!!!!!!
So, I filled up my tank in Combat Max for free, sorta!
Now I have a trailer and today, I'll unbolt that truck bed and see what I need to do to lift it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlaser View Post
Did I read this correctly that now your going to upgrade the very reliable sq D front end to coil overs? I realize I pestered the heck out of you about the duramax but I guess I just don't see why you would want to put a hydraulic shock up under the front end which would make it in the long run a weak point. I know we had this discussion before and I like the 4 link idea and coil springs but your asking for a problem possibly with the coil overs. Not to mention this just increased your project costs upward quite a bit. Cool build, old school that everyone could afford over time and this doesn't really seem to fit the theme. Again just my opinion.
Shawn,
First, yep, I'm upgrading it
The problem here with coils is with available room. The earlier right drop D60's in these square body trucks are a bit narrow and looking at a 5"-6" or larger coil like we see in the second gen Dodges, I just won't have the room to get that done.
The coil over was my second choice with simple coil springs being my first, but I just don't think I'll be able to squeeze it all in there. That's why the jump all the way to coil overs
The expense isn't that much more really. With coils I'd need to purchase top and bottom spring buckets for a couple hundred and the coil springs again, for a couple hundred. Say I got away with $500. Well, the Coil overs are not much more than twice that, say an additional$700. SO I'd be doing a professional grade desert racing coil-over for $700. Then the coil-over simplifies the design enormously. Do a top hoop, which I already have, and a bottom tab and it's done!
Anyway, that's why and how...
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Well there won't be much of an update tonight.
But I did spend some time on the phone with some diesel specialists talking about how best to handle the build up of the power plant. It seems 400HP is going to be pretty tough, but a 6K truck making 350/750 is still going to be spirited.
I spent the working portion of today switching both sides caliper brackets and calipers to get the orientation correct.
That's behind me now, essentially a lost day but all corrected now!
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I think I'm about to get into some open country running with this project. Up to this point the majority of the work has been reconditioning, rebuilding and so forth.
With the removal of the bed, the innovating will start to arrive. Yes, there is still some reconditioning needed, but mixed with that will be some cool body work stuff that gets that thing started toward being OD green, then many other cool projects.
The front link and coilover will set it apart from 95% of the other square body trucks out there.
Then will come the tasteful engine mods which will almost triple the power output. Later on during Mod 1 or 2, the single turbo will turn into a compound setup.
I have been busy researching and sketching out ideas and concepts for the bumper(s)
What I am seeing there is a bumper "System" that not only does everything a bumper on steroids does, but integrates into the truck and the vehicle as well, forming the basis for a future exo-skeleton. The rear bumper will get a spare tire and fuel can rack right out of the gate, as that is necessary to meet the initial goal of being a backup survival or "bug out" vehicle. They will wrap around the front and rear and be attached to the frame in numerous places, both providing protection and strengthening the chassis and frame. I plan to add lifting points and jacking points as well. My concept there is to fab up some sort of hole that the hi-lift jack fits perfectly into and maybe locks into as well. So if you're stuck, plug in the jack, give it a few strokes, and throw a rock under the wheel and you're out.
Anyway, the projects are stacking up and it's looking like a pretty good winter fab season coming up!
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So lets get started
First I drove around and picked up the new driveshaft with 1410 joints throughout.
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It got the prep treatment then some acrylic primer and a little time in the hanging jungle
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Then several coats of acrylic enamel with hardener
It will likely be installed tomorrow
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The lug nuts came in. 32 splined 9/16 X 18 in black thank you berry much!
And they fit front and back...Whew!!!
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I did this for Nate!
Figured he'd develop hives if he didn't see the wheels mounted soon!
Bro, hope this helps!
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Personally, I am a bit disappointed!
The offset is too negative and those tires are just too small
I hate that I did that and didn't wait
Not sure I can go with this...
I give it a thumbs level to slightly down
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Well it finally was time to unbolt and remove the bed.
Eight of these holds the bed to the frame:
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They came out easy and fast.
I pulled the rear lenses out then it was time to rig it for the big pull.
I used 2 X 6's as spreaders and laced rope in and out of the stake pockets to the two halves of my tractor's 4 in 1 bucket
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Then came the lift. slow and methodical...
-
Then just like that, it was off
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With that tractor and it's very capable hydraulics, that lift was a non event!
So here's what was under that bed:
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All in all, the frame is looking pretty good. I'll get a better look at it tomorrow, and especially when I get the tank pulled off which might happen tomorrow as well. Depends on how much time I have after taking things up to the strippers
Some more detail shots:
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So, I'm off looking for wheels
I think I learned my lesson here
Screwed up
I'm looking for some simple steelies but after viewing the black Rock wheels the least back spacing I can find was 4.5" on a 17 X 9" wheel
Screw it, I think I'll just go with a 35" tire.
That's what I know...
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Then Shawn suggested:
They're called H1 wheels and they are a lot more tractor like than that front suspension your designing for this Sq D "tractor powered rig". Not to mention they may make those weak coil overs hang in there just a bit longer in a survival type environment because they are just that stout.
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Today I got the bed up to Cincinnati to the metal stripper operation
Mark, there, said it would take about 2 weeks. Hmmm, same amount of time to get anything done on my house by any contractor I ever talked to...!
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The process apparently starts here with pressure cleaning.
After looking at what I had, they told me they would likely forgo this step.
Here an entire hot rod frame and running gear is getting the treatment
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Then it is dunked into one or both of these tanks.
I believe Jimmy Hoffa is residing in the mirky brown tank!
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From Dustoff35
You get to wait in line like everyone else! The process itself doesn't take that long. Don't be surprised if you get a call earlier than expected telling you that its done...
Back when I was at Fort Campbell, the group I was running with was into frame-off restorations. I had a '73 BB Corvette (Don, you remember that one, don't you?), another guy had a '69 BB Corvette and yet another had a '68 SS RS Camaro. We all used a place east of Nashville, Metal Strip, to clean-up and de-scale our frames, sub-frames and a myriad of other parts.
You will be very happy with the results.
Just make sure you get all of the hidden areas coated with something before the bed goes back on. We used a kit from Eastwood that allowed us to coat the inside of the boxed frames with some kind of anti-rust formulation. The kit had long, hard tubes with 360 degree spray nozzles and long runs of vinyl tubing with the same 360 nozzles that allowed you to get the anti-rust stuff into tight areas.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustoff 35 View Post
You get to wait in line like everyone else! The process itself doesn't take that long. Don't be surprised if you get a call earlier than expected telling you that its done...
Back when I was at Fort Campbell, the group I was running with was into frame-off restorations. I had a '73 BB Corvette (Don, you remember that one, don't you?), another guy had a '69 BB Corvette and yet another had a '68 SS RS Camaro. We all used a place east of Nashville, Metal Strip, to clean-up and de-scale our frames, sub-frames and a myriad of other parts.
You will be very happy with the results.
Just make sure you get all of the hidden areas coated with something before the bed goes back on. We used a kit from Eastwood that allowed us to coat the inside of the boxed frames with some kind of anti-rust formulation. The kit had long, hard tubes with 360 degree spray nozzles and long runs of vinyl tubing with the same 360 nozzles that allowed you to get the anti-rust stuff into tight areas.
Bro, I'm all over it.
Eastwood has some kits but everything they sell is repackaged and with the price pumped up. I'll get the good stuff!
You can be the consultant!
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losing the battle once again to the parts demon. Parts are streaming in, but I am into the labor intensive stuff now, so the BRI (Box reduction initiative) effort is lagging.
Made a decision with a very helpful gentleman last night about how to manage the power increase. It was decided to do it in two stages. Stage 1 will modify the stock turbo. I'll rebuild the center section then add a much larger 60mm compressor and a 14cm exhaust housing. I'll back that up with a set of custom 90 horsepower injectors and what is becoming some more extensive injection pump modifications. It will also get the addition of a Ford Power-stroke intercooler and some custom plumbing by Don.
Along with everything else this will get me up to around 350 HP and 750ish for the torque. At this initial point it will feel much quicker that a stock D-Max since this Dodge weighs in around 6,000 as opposed to the 8700 for my truck.
So let's assume I am making 350HP and 750 torque with the Dodge which weighs 6,000 lbs.
6000/350 = 17.14 pounds per hp
6000/750 = 8.00 pounds per ft/lb of torque
Stock LML 400HP 765 Torque, 8000 lbs
8000/400 = 20.0 pounds per hp
8000/765 = 10.45 pounds per ft/lb of torque
My built LML 525HP 1000 torque, 8700 lbs
8700/525 = 16.57 pounds per hp
8700/1000 = 8.70 pounds per ft/lb of torque
Torque is what actually propels an object and Horsepower maintains that speed
The lower the number, the faster it feels
With these simple upgrades to Square D in stage 1 and that truck will feel about the same to a little quicker than the LML were it not for the fact that the Chevy enjoys 6 wonderfully moderated gears in a transmission and a steep 4.56 gear ratio.
So I'd put my money on the heavier Chevy for now,
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But
In stage 2 of the build
The Cummins will get an O-ringed head, be ported, better valve springs, another injector upgrade to accommodate all the extra air delivered from a second turbocharger.
That setup will likely require an exotic injector pump mod which is seldom seen but enables 600-700 RWHP and 1500 or more torque. At that point the truck will literally become a race truck if I should choose and power anything I wish to do. It will take a twin pumped and compounded up D-Max in my heavy Chevy to keep up!
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From jms89:
If you go all out in stage 2 chances are you may need to change to a p pump. There was actually a black extended cab square dodge in this months diesel power magazine. I think the owner is from Northern Kentucky actually. I believe he is in the process of converting to a p pump. Either way, these old square dodges seem to be increasing in popularity lately! I can't wait to see this thing making north of 500 horse!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jms89 View Post
If you go all out in stage 2 chances are you may need to change to a p pump. There was actually a black extended cab square dodge in this months diesel power magazine. I think the owner is from Northern Kentucky actually. I believe he is in the process of converting to a p pump. Either way, these old square dodges seem to be increasing in popularity lately! I can't wait to see this thing making north of 500 horse!
The VE pump this early Cummins motor has is actually known to be easier starting in all climates than the P-Pump. I watched a vid of a guy who had his Dodge sitting for so long when he opened the hood the weeds had nearly overgrown the motor. He hooks up the jumper cables and just bumped the starter and it fired and ran normally.
Additionally, the VE pump will run fuel with waste engine oil mixed in some quantity in the fuel! It is a true multifuel engine because of that pump.
The real limiting factor is the lower pressure it produces, around 17,000 psi. But with much larger injectors and a 14mm hat, guys are making over 600 HP already with a VE pump. Frankly 500 HP with the lighter truck is going to be a traction limited vehicle, although I will add about 1000 pounds to it over the build.
I will not be changing over to a P-Pump after spending all this money on VE pump stuff. If I were going for a 1000HP motor, I would have already.
Nope Mr. VE pump is staying put!
Note: Man was I ever wrong, as you will see...
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Got the truck torn down some more
I started with the removal of the fuel filler and cleaning up of the fuel tank cap
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It will all get a better scrubbing but this will keep the work area a bit cleaner.
Next I dropper the factory rear bumper. It will not be returning for duty!
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I drilled a hole in the bottom of the fuel tank where the sump will be going in. Over 15 gallons of diesel came running out. I was ready for 10!
So, the floor got degreased while I ran off to get a bucket which also filled up.
I transferred it all into my heater and the Combat-Max
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the tow hitch came off. It, too, will not be returning. The backend will be getting an integrated bumper tow hitch deal soon.
The truck just got much shorter!
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Next the tank fuel pick up and level device was removed. Even it had some rust on it!
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I wasn't too happy with the inside of the tank!
I am feeling better all the time about my decision to just dive into this thing and renew everything
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That will all be gone and spic and span when I get done cleaning it up and modifying it.
So next the tank itself came out
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Pulling the fuel tank was necessary to gain access to the frame so I could run new fuel and brake lines and eliminate that rust.
All in all, the rust is superficial and will be easy to remove. I'm just not going to want to be me while grinding all that junk out of there. That is one dirty job!
The early anti lock brakes was actually a rear anti lock system. I have explained it earlier somewhere. This is the valve that dumps the pressure to the rear brakes and it is about as reliable as our commander in chief, so I'm removing it. Hey, that gives me an idea...!
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The old fuel lines...No-go!
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Old brake lines: Same story!
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Cross member condition: I give it a so-so
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This stuff will being going bye-bye
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And this is how it sits at the end of build day 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustoff 35 View Post
In anticipation of that much torque, might you want to box the frame now, while its accessible? Look at how well-designed and well-built the D-max frame is compared to D^2. The engineering and manufacturing process that produces these truck chassis has come a long way in 20+ years... So has the torque potential of the diesel engines.
Yet another reason to pull the cab and do the frame (the very foundation of your truck!).
I hear ya!
I'll box and plate the front where the coil-over operation is going in. I'll likely plate the "Hump" area as well. By the time this truck gets the full bumper/rock rail side armor system I am envisioning, it will have the equivalent of a second frame.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustoff 35 View Post
You could pull the cab & engine and take the frame to metal strip...
I'm sure the sections under the cab & cowl area are just as rusty...
I know its gonna bother you, that untouched rusty frame section...
that you are eventually gonna link and coil-over...
You're right, I don't like having any rust anywhere, But I don't think I need to pull it all apart. I am going to touch all areas on this truck as the projects move all over the place. Eventually it will all have been cleaned up, coated, repainted, restored, renewed, or blessed.
I plan to bolt on new body bushings so I'll do the tops of the frame rails then Grand National style. On that car (Remember the 86GN?) I'd remove one side of the body bolts and loosen the other side, then jack the body up a foot on the one side, then repaint/repair as necessary, then repeat on the opposite side.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustoff 35 View Post
I don't know...
If he were going to do just a stock rebuild / refurbishment I think it would be OK.
Now he is talking coil-overs and tripling the HP and TQ on a rusty, stock but nonetheless structurally sound 23 year old frame; that was designed to handle 180hp and 300lb ft for up to 100,000 miles and/or 10 years and then go directly to the junkyard.
Just one man's opinion...
As for sending this project into a tailspin? Not a chance. I've known this guy for a long time. He will get it done. He will persevere. He just needs some "Ponder Time" to mull this over.
Normally, I'd agree to tear down and send a semi full of stuff to the chem strippers. But I have gotten to a lot of the frame already with house spent with the wire grinder. Only the severely limited access areas are somewhat untouched. Remember, I blasted it with high pressure hot water for hours, then brushed rust converter on. Granted that just neutralizes the upper stratum of rust layers, but when you put the mech grinder to it, then treat, you are down to parent metal and putting as good a finish as you can down. That is what I will end up doing.
I'm not bolting new lines down onto any unprepared surface, forget that. If I am going to all this trouble, I want it to remain at least relatively rust free, although it will get and stay dirty.
I think the way I am attacking this particular truck is the correct way.
__________________
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyin6 View Post
Normally, I'd agree to tear down and send a semi full of stuff to the chem strippers. But I have gotten to a lot of the frame already with house spent with the wire grinder. Only the severely limited access areas are somewhat untouched. Remember, I blasted it with high pressure hot water for hours, then brushed rust converter on. Granted that just neutralizes the upper stratum of rust layers, but when you put the mech grinder to it, then treat, you are down to parent metal and putting as good a finish as you can down. That is what I will end up doing.
I'm not bolting new lines down onto any unprepared surface, forget that. If I am going to all this trouble, I want it to remain at least relatively rust free, although it will get and stay dirty.
I think the way I am attacking this particular truck is the correct way.
You have definitely put in a lot of time mechanically removing the rust and re-coating the accessible areas. It is nasty work. You are probably 50% to where you want to be in regards to frame cleanliness. I think you probably would have gone the chemical strip route from the beginning if you knew then how deep into it you were going to go. Had I known, I certainly would have encouraged you to go in that direction. (Remember that Strategic / Tactical planning discussion we had last week?)
I've done frame restorations both ways and I'm telling you, nothing beats just dis-assembling, taking all the big parts to the chemical strippers and picking up like-new parts a week or so later. During the time the big parts are at the strippers, You can work on all the small stuff in a FUNCTIONING BLAST CABINET!
At this point its probably a wash with all the hours you've logged behind that wire wheel...
Those x-members do need some serious attention; that is where you will either incur or eliminate most of your flex and torsion/twisting. Even in like-new condition I don't think those x-members are up to the job. I know you can fab up something better...
Remember "The Warwagon" build on 4BT Swaps? Now those were/are x-members...
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...536#post165536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkami712 View Post
SQD needs a wheel/tire setup like that warwagon!
I'm thinking more and more I need to just get some surplus HMMV wheels and 37" Armee tires. re-center the wheels and mount them up.
Less expensive and the truck really will need larger diameter tires.
Note here: I seem to be bypassing Restoration level one and going straight to mod 1 +
That means I have purchased a bunch of parts I will not be using!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armalite View Post
Sqaure d coming right along...
Looks a lot better with that bed off. A lot easier to progress now...
Wait till you see it now after 8 hours of rust removal and about a million megawatts of electricity!
Heck, let's get started
First up was the removal of the fuel lines and brake lines and the rear anti lock valve
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The frame has a lot of surface rust and some deeper pitting on the aft cross member, but it is down to just itself at this point
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With hopes of removing the rust from the filler neck, I pulled that assembly apart
I can't believe it was that nasty inside that thing!
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I'm going to see if anyone makes new filler neck assemblies, Even with bead blasting, that thing will not be making me happy!
So with that it was off to wire cup grinding the frame. That took hours, was back breaking and dirty. I am still tasting rust even after supper!
Wore one brush down to nubs!
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It's getting better
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I took the real grinder to some of the really bad parts to knock it all down to level
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Then after cleaning it off, the rust converter went to work
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I checked it a little while ago, and that frame blackened up just about right. It will be sanded, then primed, sanded again, then painted. All the brackets will get a trip through the hanging jungle, then it will be reassembly time.
Here it is as it sits at the end of Build Day 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkami712 View Post
H1 Hummer Wheels
Hummer wheels are 9” wide and for 16.5” Tires. Bolt pattern is 8 x 6.5 with a 7” back space. The simple double bead 8 bolt wheels can be had for $50 a piece.
Im not sure about tires yet..
Trail worthy is way over priced. I just bought the things. Paid 175 ea for 12 bolt wheels, runflats, double beadlocks, and Goodyear tires all 90-95% tread. I just purchased 5 of them. Am picking up five pressed centers from C&M Machine who was recommended by Shawn at GLO. I would have preferred to use the GLO stuff, however, Shawn does not have the pressed centers, only flat, and I need as much backspace as I can get!
BTW, HMMV wheels are all 16.5" X 8" not 9"
Thanks for the info all the same
That means I now have new tires and wheels for sale!
__________________
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Stazworks HMMV centers and beadlock
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Those will be the wheels I use except that those are 8 bolt wheels and I will be using 12 bolt. These days the HMMV also comes with overkill 24 bolt rims which I will not be using since all that extra strength is at a premium of extra weight which a steel wheel, with a bead lock insert and a heavy 37" tire does not need.
Today, I got the frame almost complete first finishing the underside of a couple cross members and some recessed areas, then coating those hard to get places with some high quality undercoating
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The top of the cross members and frame got a coat, then the whole thing got another coat
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This stuff was thin and used a good nozzle so it sprayed out well and covered everything just fine
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Then after drying, I sanded the outside of the frame which does not have any undercoating, and sprayed down a double coat of DuPont lacquer primer
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That is a huge change from before!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KensAuto View Post
Looks pretty dang good there Big D.! I also noticed the color of those wheels.....pretty close to Lycom grey if u ask me.
I said that to John Staz (I hope I'm spelling his name correctly?)
Then explained the whole Lycoming engine gray paint thing. But yes, I picked up on that right away. It is the color I plan to paint them after the welding of the centers is complete.
I'm sitting here thinking to myself why I didn't do this the first time around instead of buying two sets of wheels/tires. Trying to get that truck done quickly cost me more money that it should have!
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Well, proceeding along with the plan, today I started with replacing the factory mechanical fuel pump with a Cummins factory high performance pump and line. This one will move the fuel this motor will consume at near 400HP
The factory pump is in the circle
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The first order of business was to get the throttle linkage bracket out of the way. While I disconnected the throttle cable I noticed it was placed in the "Low performance" location. Looking at the throttle lever, moving the cable and ball to the inside hole quickens the throttle
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Next, the fuel pump and line came out
There is quite a bit of difference between the sickly looking stocker and the high volume lift pump Cummins supplied
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I gave the untreated aluminum a coat of "Shark-Hide" corrosion preventer from Eastwood company
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The new pump must be spaced out about 3/16" for clearance. Cummins supplies a shim and dual gasket kit which I glued all together and to the pump
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I replaced the washer gaskets with fresh factory stuff
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The new pump went in with relative ease. I installed this today because the entire fuel system will be going back in over the next couple days, so I need to have something to run the line to!
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Next up was the fuel tank which first gor a through scrubbing with lots of hot soapy water
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And here's the reason:
I have a place to send the fuel to, now I needed a place to draw it from
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Using a 2.75" hole saw, the hole was created
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After drilling out the mounting holes, you place two crescent anchors inside the tank, then slide the outside sump onto the threads and start installing the screws
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The outer piece seals to the tank body with two big O-rings and plastic washers on the retaining screws
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use a lot of grease to hold these O-rings in place while assembling. This is no time for anything to start moving around!
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Then you slide the sump home and install all the screws. Once all of them are in place and the studs are screwed back out and replaced with screws, tighten in a side to side sequence
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Here's what it looks like from the inside
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I plan to hit the inside of that tank one more time just to be sure. I applied some armor-all to shine it up a bit
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Next up, the frame was sanded top to bottom and wiped down for paint
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Then came several wet coats of the John Deere Blitz black from Valspar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Higher Caliber View Post
Does mama get tired of you using the good bed linens for drop cloths??
Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Yes
Think that's bad?
I assembled my last M4 on our custom made kitchen table
...yea...
Had this thing built by a local craftsman
Made from several species of wood
$5500 for the table and 8 chairs
You know the part where you are tapping pins into place?
Building the lower?
Well, I was doing all that on top of a dish towel
Which
Prevented me from seeing all the dents
I just knocked into the table top, until I was done
I had a stubborn pin
Actually beat on it for awhile...
Yup
and she noticed 4.2 seconds after walking in the door which is 3.6 seconds walk away from the table...
Lead balloon...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cudakidd53 View Post
Just out of curiosity, how many cans of JD black have you used for the frame, or did you go with the compressor attached sprayer?
I mix the stuff. 8:1:1 paint/thinner/hardener
I keep spray cans in stock here, but it's mo-better to use the regular stuff, goes on thicker. I think one coat from the Binks is equal to three coats from the spray can
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Managing a sick child today so the work time got limited.
The goal is to get the brake line, then the new fuel lines run, then hang the fuel tank and bolt up the driveshaft. Only then will I know where I can position the traction bar and fab up some sway bar mounts.
So that's what I worked toward today. Finding all the fittings, hard lines, and so forth constituted the bulk of the good work hours.
Never the less, I did get some stuff from rust to paint
After procuring more wire brushes, I wore the last one down to nubs as well. I started on the fuel tank straps
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Then I went on to some other brackets such as the throttle cable bracket and got everything free from the rust
Then over to the hanging jungle
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First a coat of primer
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Then the Lycoming gray Acrylic enamel
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Another shipment of hardware from "Nuttys" came in today with the missing 5/8" bolts for the springs and some assorted stuff. I picked up a bag of 7/16" frame bolts in anticipation of bolting some stuff up to, well, the frame!
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Here's the future fuel line laid out. 3/8" supply and 5/16" return, which, believe it or not is up one size from stock!
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And of course, some frame shots with the JD paint 24 hours after spraying
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I'm going to add this "T" in the supply line for when I add an aux fuel tank
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Critter update:
Sled dog is growing more hair!
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Love the semi gloss paint. I have been using the Ace Hardware Rust Semi Black for years. Funny how you get stuck on a brand and color for things.
You know, what a great time to size up or fab a new tank for the rear. Not shortage on access right now!!
On another note I love the pic I keep seeing of the two 47s on the wall. Just chance they got both with the rotors in sinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FBJR View Post
Love the semi gloss paint. I have been using the Ace Hardware Rust Semi Black for years. Funny how you get stuck on a brand and color for things.
You know, what a great time to size up or fab a new tank for the rear. Not shortage on access right now!!
On another note I love the pic I keep seeing of the two 47s on the wall. Just chance they got both with the rotors in sinc :
That's a painting of a cool mission I used to fly in Korea. Three Chinooks would take off from a certain location then proceed out to sea. at a certain point, we would turn north, toward North Korea. There is actually a small island, P-Y-Doo, at least that's it's phonetic spelling.
At the release point Chinook #3 would peel off leaving the remaining two to proceed into North Korean patrolled airspace and fly the remaining distance to the island. That island is the one the North hammered with artillery a couple years ago.
On the day of that photo, We had a south Korean CAP of two fighters, with some US F16's on the runway. Gary, PIC of the other bird started popping flares and said he was being tracked! All of a sudden this little boat pops out of the water coming straight toward an intercept course with us. It was some sort of a hydrofoil. Anyway shots were fired and the South Korean fighters ended up strafing the vessel and we bugged out of the A.O. We made it in to the island, and leaving it later, I thought they would be waiting for us, but nothing happened.
I flew the DMZ over there over 600 hours, probably twice a week...freaky place...
__________________
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Power plant update:
While I'm scraping away at the frame and running lines and inventing stuff traction related, I have been a busy beaver learning, talking and obtaining engine parts.
I teamed up with Steve at Gillette Diesel for some turbocharger, injector upgrades.
He is sourcing me a 14CM exhaust housing which will spool mucho-faster than the factory junk and a 60mm compressor wheel. The factory turbo has a 56mm wheel. I'll be rebuilding the center section as well and I think I'll add in a new oil line.
The injector boyz there, are building me up a set of custom injectors to add in as well. We built this turbo to provide a big power increase for Mod 1, then later on serve as the base turbo in a compound turbo setup, which I think I'll fab up myself.
Finally, I have on hand all the various pieces parts going into the VE rotary fuel injection pump that will make that unit capable and up to the task.
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Are you suggesting or saying you into smokin' wacky to-bbacky?
Again, to refresh your failing memory, first the Chinook, then the lowly (embarrassing) Black Hawk!
-
Pic below sorta says it all, don't ya think!
In fact it says a lot more other than big brother is there (once again) to save his little brother.
You see, what I see here is what I often saw over there. After the battle, the battle in which both airframes sortied stuff into and out of the bad place, in the end there are broken Black Hawks sitting here and there, but "ole reliable" is still picking up the last of the Blackhawk loads (That they missed) and picking up the broken Black Hawks as well!
One good thing I will say about the UH-60, is that as long as the Armee has them, we Chinook pilots will always have job security!
Bam!
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Lets get a little more built up here
Today some of the hanging jungle was reinstalled
First up was the emergency brake cables which have been dangling like a shiny fishing lure and have tempted the red dog more than it can stand, so I figured, use it or lose it!
I bolted them back up to fend off the easy snatch and run ploy of that useless mutt.
-
I'm starting to get to use all that Purdy hardware I have been accumulating.
The cables were seated and locked in with snap rings instead of the flimsy factory clips
-
The red dog got one of the rubber boots D@##$! dog...!
So, I can expect that cable to fail in the not too distant future!
Next up the brake line bracket
-
Then the wiring harness
It is held to the frame with some 20+ year old brittle plastic pins. I didn't like them, so I cut them off and came up with this neat system. Using the original hole, I placed a stainless screw through the frame and through a round eye in a special zip tie which captures and holds the cable securely in place. I ended up putting screws in all over the place so I doubt the harness will do much moving about.
Before all that, I taped in the plugs for the anti lock system and repaired the harness wherever I found it worn.
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Here's the back side:
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I sort of like the contrast between the semi flat paint and the stainless hardware
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I have to admit to a mistake here
I ordered the wrong color OD!
I wanted the 24087 darker green OD which was sprayed on my M60A1 main battle tank way back in the day before M1 Abrams came and screwed the tank scene all up.
I ordered the WII OD green which is a lighter green with some brown in it. I sprayed that block on the bed and was immediately surprised to see it. Then I sat and thought about it and thought, what the heck, my dad's B17 was adorned with that paint, that's good enough for me!
Then I found some pics of trucks done with it and did not like it...hmmm
I spent almost $200 for the wrong paint and it isn't going back, but I don't like it.
Well Tuesday, I bit the bullet and ordered the correct paint, semi gloss OD green circa 1957-present. I guess Duane already has the paint for that SEMA award winning Cobra he has, good for him!
But I just had to paint something with that cool stuff, so I did, can you see it?
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Then I started running the brake line. After re-flaring the 60" first section so I could use the strange fitting on the proportioning valve I mounted that up.
That line will join another, then run into the adjustable prop valve, then into the flex hose to complete the circuit.
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I trust everyone is having a splendid weekend!
So on a cool Saturday evening let's build some more of Square D
Today I started with a side project. I have had some Issrpo gages on order for weeks now, and they finally showed up, well some of them. I am still missing the tachometer!
I just didn't want to add that box to the stack already there, so I decided to at least "Store" the gages in the vehicle.
You may recall, I chose a 2 gage pillar mount earlier
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I wanted simple analog gages and that's what I thought I purchased, however the Pyro gage has some sort of processor box, so it is not a simple probe with Chromel/Alumel di-electric metal.
May have to can that gage on a future mod and replace it with an aircraft part.
The 2.25" gages seemed appropriate for this application
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The gages are oriented so that the 12:00 position means trouble. That way you get a quick scan and if things are pointing at the moon, get out of the throttle. It's an old Army night vision goggle flying trick.
I prewired everything and bundled the cable up prior to mounting (of course!)
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I found the nylon rivets to be unsat. so I used wire ties instead to secure the assembly. It may not look show car pretty, but it is strong and will work
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For now, I'll leave the convoluted tube cable assembly tucked in out of the way and zip-tied to some trim. Later on I may work with that a little more
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That's enough of that for now, the parts did not get stacked, but semi installed, so I feel the project is still moving forward.
Next, back to running the lines. Yesterday I had started the first 60" of line, today I ran it all the way back. This is what it all connects to:
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The mount is a simple 1" piece of rectangle steel tubing. I looked at various mounting locations. I did not want to drill any holes into the frame, so the available holes drove the actual mounting location to a large extent.
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The lower position proved to be optimum, offering the ability to screw into the mount from two different planes.
Here it is in a test fit
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Then the proportioning valve was drilled in as well. All holes were tapped so that a fastener can simply screw into the mount itself
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That all got temporarily mounted so that the brake lines could be bent up to fit.
This setup completely eliminates the crappy rear wheel anti-lock junk
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Then the brake lines were bent up and mounted, completing the brake circuit
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With that all in the bag, the mount was removed for painting.
I think I found a use for the unused WWII OD Green!
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Next is the fuel lines. The supply line will go in after the tank is remounted, however, I wanted to get it started at the motor end with the pump fitting and the flex line that will run to the filter.
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I have to find a home for this piece of equipment:
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But before that, and in preparation for the reinstallation of the fuel tank, I cleaned and reinstalled these frame bumpers which keep the fuel tank from rubbing on anything hard
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I upsized the factory 1/4" return line to 5/16" in preparation for greater volume.
Here is the start of that line installation.
Once this line is in, I can remount the fuel tank
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The driveshaft is only a few bolts away from finding a new home and connecting propulsion to drive train.
That was it for today, here's what it looks like at the moment:
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:
Originally Posted by wally_gator View Post
Just a question here...
Did I read that you planned to Box the frame?
If so, do you plan on Boxing in the Brake and Fuel lines?
Or will you re-mount them after the Boxing?
I am not going to box the whole frame
I will box in some areas up front to strengthen the areas where new shock towers will now carry the vehicle weight, but little more
I plan to use another technique
More of an exo-skeleton approach
I have done it before, and it adds a ton of strength and rigidity to the factory frame
__________________
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmeyer414 View Post
Here is my question.
Why did you mount the valve in such a way that it hangs below the frame? Does it have to hang that way? Would it not make more sense to mount it parallel to the marching surface to further prevent something from jumping up and snatching it off the truck or damaging the lines?
Nate
It is mounted that way so that I have access to it from the outside. Say I want to increase rear braking, I just reach in and give the knob a twist.
Now as for being protected, first it is as high up in the frame as you can get, then the axle, shocks and so forth are right in front. The chances of something getting way up there are up there with getting struck by a meteor. Finally, there is a integrated bumper/protection system coming up which is yet to be built. That will settle all questions of anything getting damaged
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustoff 35 View Post
X 2. Interesting location for a proportioning valve. Why not under the hood near the MC? That's where I've always seen them located.
Remember where I located the same valve on the SAS Tundra build???
Same location as with Square D.
So I have some actual experience with the valve being there behind the wheel way high up on the frame
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmeyer414 View Post
poochie would have to go back as well! the only time I will tolerate a dog biting somebody is when he is protecting my wife or the kids/grandkids.
don, I have been thinking about your break valve that you installed and your gauge pillar. you are a very detail oriented person, and you truly display the "do it right the first time" concept. with that said, the gauge pillar with the zip ties looks kind of cheesy? also I have been thinking about the break valve that you installed. can it get turned sideways like 90 deg, so that the handle is not facing the ground? what about some sort of a shield or bracket to go around it? just offering a different perspective here?
Nate,
I would counter that what we have here is a difference in perspective. You see a zip tie as a cheesy thing, and prefer the plastic pop rivets, I'm guessing? That is all fine from your perspective, but the zip tie is way stronger and more positive. The plastic rivets failed to hold the gage pillar mount in place, whereas this zip tie will absolutely hold it. Plus I can take a pair of pliers, cut the tie and gain access quickly for a repair.
It's more a question of looks with regard to personal preference. Some would not like the zip tie look, whereas, I see it as all business, and that's all that I care about. Looks means nothing to me really, but function counts. I just see the beauty in a thing through it's function.
With regard to the prop valve, if I rotated it 90 degrees one of the brake lines would be protruding downward. If I rotated it 90 degrees in the horizontal axis, it would over complicate the mount in my view.
Finally, this is not done, only mounted. I don't know what sort of thing I am going to do back there just yet. I want to look at it after building the rear bumper/crash bar thing.
Let's look at all of that detail after the primary design gets installed.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkami712 View Post
Don, I think that brake valve has created the most controversy out of any of your build threads!
Thats unfortunate...I would say that was the soul of the organization and maybe still is sort of. Now I see the BSA as being a daycare for parents who don't want to actually parent their children. Most drop the boys off for meetings and love when they're gone for a weekend campout. 10% actually are engaged and care about what they are learning. I wouldn't have half the skills I do if it weren't for great leaders that cared and my parents.
Controversy??
Or discussion?
I welcome it!
There are a bunch of smart guys reading this. Who wouldn't welcome constructive criticism? I certainly do! I don't have to respond/do/change anything, but more than once we have seen a reader catch something I did that was wrong (Front brakes!)
So, no, not controversy but just guys talking, and when is the last time guys agreed over anything?
Reminds me of a joke I heard
What's the only thing that two pilots can agree on?
Answer: The incompetency of a Black Hawk pilot who is not there to defend himself!
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Rotate the valve up 90 degrees, temporarily remove handle. Stick thru frame reinstall handle on outside of frame rail, make new mount protected from below, re plumb lines. All better now......
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyin6 View Post
With regard to the prop valve, if I rotated it 90 degrees one of the brake lines would be protruding downward. If I rotated it 90 degrees in the horizontal axis, it would over complicate the mount in my view.
Finally, this is not done, only mounted. I don't know what sort of thing I am going to do back there just yet. I want to look at it after building the rear bumper/crash bar thing.
Let's look at all of that detail after the primary design gets installed.
I figured I had better chime in, well because I normally do when Don makes something fugly. Anyone recall that 11.5 AAM cover paint job????
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Enough of this DOTT
(DOT Talk)
Let's look at some pictures
I didn't do squat today
But the big yellow truck showed up with some heavy parts:
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I'm sure the neighbors are more than thrilled that ANOTHER stack of tires has materialized in my driveway!
No worries, they won't say anything (To my face anyway)
You can see there is a bit of a difference between the 285/85's and the new 37" 12.50 R 16.5's
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The tires were new to very slightly used
Tall and narrow, a perfect recipe for good traction in the woods and in mud.
The tread seems to measure somewhere between 9" and 10" and the height is 36.75"
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Ya know, when Shawn called me out the other day over chickening out and going coil-overs he really got me to thinking.
Coilovers are easy. Tab on the bottom, hoop on the top and yer dun!
OK, I'm good with that, although I do enjoy more of a fab challenge (FABCHAL)
ANd, yesterday while talking to Beau at WFO Concepts, we really started to kick around the coil spring/shock thing. I admit I am drawn to the idea because it is dirt simple...hmmm...combat stuff
complicated: not so much
Simple: good
Sorta matches my mind...
Anyway, Beau is quite the character. When you talk to him about something, he really gets into it.
He and I were talking for some time about how to do the brakes on this upcoming D-Max SAS, me wanting to use 14" rotors, anti-lock and the factory calipers and so forth. Well, Beau goes out and buys everything and starts mocking up and CNC'ing parts to see what he can figure out. That has been why the SAS LML project got delayed, we just need more time to figure all that out.
Well, he did it again
A few weeks ago I was talking to him about linking up the Dodge and he was off figuring out how to modify his existing HPD60 Ford F350 brackets to friendly up with the Dodge, when he bought a Dodge Dana 60! One of the guys who worked in his shop has a square Dodge and Beau was using that truck and his axle to figure out the brackets. Once those are figured out (I decided to just let him science it out while I mess with paint, wheels, and cylinder heads!
Anyway, last night we really got into the coil spring conversation. Using second gen coil springs, Beau says he wants to get in there and see how everything might fit together using that stuff. That would be easy (easier) since those springs already know a Cummins engine. Figure I get a set of 6" or 8" lift springs and I should be in there. Then just put a longer shock in there and voila, coil spring link suspension.
Anyway, without a 100% commitment, I am marching in that direction at least to do a feasibility study.
We'll see...
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Originally Posted by nmeyer414 View Post
all the while sittin and listenin to the barking bird, wonderin what the sled dog is chewin on, drinkin some leaded sweet tea, wonderin what animal of the neighbors the dog is tryin to kill and eat...............
There's a lot of stuff to ponder there Sergeant Nate.
You'll appreciate this.
First mod, fix the cheesy wire tie instrument thing
Here's how that happened:
You satisfied?
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The goal today was to mount the fuel filter, plumb in the lines and be ready to hang the fuel tank.
I did not meet my objectives.
I did get down that road pretty well though. First here is the chosen location for the fuel/water separator:
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It is well protected next to the transfer case and attaches to the cross member and to the frame.
First I fashioned up the lower foot
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Then the bolt holes using preexisting holes
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Now the frame foot
I captured two bolts which secure the parking brake cable and a pre existing hole below
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Then cut off a 5.5" length of 3" strap and bent it into an "L"
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Next, to connect the two feet, I chose some trusty 1 X 1 salvaged from the tactical topper project, may it rest in peace...
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Then for some welding and reinforcing, over to the handy stool/welding table
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Then, plasma torch in hand and a piece of 1 X 3 x 3/16" the sparks went ah flyin' and this came out of the mayhem:
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I went with 1/4" bolts welded on one end and suspended through 3/8" holes so that there would be room for vibration attenuation and an even pull on the bolt shanks, and because I just wanted to do it that way!
That got welded onto the developing filter mount
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Then I shaped up the brace somewhat
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I tack welded that to the feet, unbolted the assembly, then finish welded it.
I forgot to take pictures because the red dog was up to its stealing tricks again and I was distracted with thoughts of strangling small animals and things like that.
So after some wire brushing because Duane still hasn't brought over the blast cabinet spray gun, I placed the things into the hanging jungle and did the paint dance
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The brown truck brought something:
Worlds smallest tach!
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And this is what History recorded as the CGS (Current garage situation)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jms89 View Post
I love the new wheel/tire setup! After you are done with suspension modifications, are you going to need to trim the fenders up front for clearance?
I am going to cut a portion of the front fender away.
If you look at the part that hangs below the top plane of the bumper...Say your good-byes to that piece. It includes the side marker light, so I will recess that light into the wrap around road block ramming bumper thing I plan to construct.
Now, mostly, the tires catch on that front corner, which will no longer be there. I'll taper the bumper to afford more room, after I look at what might hit.
The rear of the truck bed will get the same treatment. Everything on the bed below the top plane of the rear bumper will be removed, then the warp around rear bumper/armor deal will occupy that space and protrude outboard some so I can rub against things without getting into Dodge epidermis.
We'll have to see how it all wraps up when the wheels get re-centered and I roll them up there. I have a sneaking suspicion the truck is going up a bit more in height (suspension) so that I can build in bump stops that control all that without carving up those classic lines too very much.
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I'd answer more questions, but the woman is yelling at me to come spend some time with her.
So, it will have to wait
Oh, gotta mention the gray Shepherd is talking up a storm.
We were sitting at the dinner table tonight and that darned bird said, "You better eat everything on your plate, Dammit!"
Can you flippin believe that? I said that to the little Ranger last night...Darned bird was paying attention.
Today I kept hearing the smoke detector beep. I was looking all over but no flashing lights
You guessed it, the bird!
It's in there doing wolf calls and barking like a Chihuahua!
OK, I fan some fuel lines and stuff like that.
Here's the scene of the release of energy:
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After running down some fittings, I built up the filter assembly
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And the fuel tank sump
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Then installed the new filter mount
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Then I routed the fuel line from the engine compartment, inside the frame channel, using rubber stand-offs, and secured it to the output from the filter with 2 clamps. None of this is pressurized
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Then I plumbed in the new 5/16" return line
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The rubber line is actually split, folded over the steel line and zip-tied into place. It is an anti-chaffing measure.
I did the same thing to the line that wrapped around the frame at the top.
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Then I remounted the fuel tank, placing rubber pads between it and the top cradle mounts
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Next I cleaned up some cables and things that might rub on the rear axle, using pieces of rubber tubing as standoffs...They show in blue
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Then the rest of the wiring harness was secured inside the frame and looped out of the way, awaiting the bed installation
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And here is the SOB (State of the build) effective zero-dark-late this evening:
Gotta go, be a husband for awhile!
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Let's get some build thread done here.
Today I nearly completed the fuel system and got a long way toward getting the rear sway bar in.
First I dissembled the fuel level and return assembly
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I found rust, corrosion, staining, and a bunch of parts I will no longer use due to the installation of the lower sump
This stuff was all removed and thrown away
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The lower parts were subjected to hot soapy water and elbow grease
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The metal slider was given the rust removal treatment, coating and finally painting with the Blitz
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Then the whole thing was reassembled
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And reinstalled into the fuel tank with a new seal
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And reconnected
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The filler neck gets a new seal as well
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Showing the rubber cushion to isolate the tank from the steel cradle
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The main supply line was bent up and installed from the sump to the filter inlet, completing the line from the tank to the engine
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split some rubber hose to use as a an anti-chaffing measure
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After connecting the return line to the engine, the fuel system is now plumbed.
All that remains is to repair or fab up the filler neck assembly.
I had the pipes sitting all day (And now night) in a bucket of CLR which removes rust and other deposits. If it all looks OK in the morning, I'll clean them up and paint them and reinstall. If not, I'll find something else to use.
Next up, I started fabbing up simple frame mounted sway bar end link anchors. With the Ford setup, the end-links were a single shear. I decided to make these a double shear and keep it all simple. I started with two 4" pieces of 2" X 4" X .250 Rectangle tubing and massaged them into a mount. I added several holes for end link mounting so I could do some tuning later on.
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The steel is taking shape...
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The initial test fitting makes this setup look like a factory part
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Directly above each end link mount on the frame were 3 pre-existing holes. So I decided to bend up a simple "L", weld that to the mounts, and bolt that to the frame
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Mounted to the sway bar, I used a jack to raise the mess into place, then a vise grip and some black paint to mark the holes. After drilling, the bolts slid right in
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And it fits just fine!
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After cleaning, they got their first of several coats. This one with U-Pol, weld through copper primer. Tomorrow they will get the Lycoming gray treatment.
I also plan to make up an inside brace to keep the mount from flexing, since it's captured on one side only.
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I added the rear diff vent line and using rubber hose standoffs, fastened that to the brake hose and eventually, the frame
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And added the fuel tank vent line
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL TATE View Post
Mounts are looking pretty fine there sir. Nice vent work as well. what type of hardware grade do you have holding those mounts in place though? typically shiny silver isn't grade 8, at least, not in my hardware shop. Just curious.
Tate, those bolts are all temp. The mount will be held in place by "Frame bolts." Those are actually the black oxide coated bolts showing on the left side. They are the bolts originally developed for frames. Have a molded in washer head to spread the clamping force over a wider area in thicker metal such as an automotive frame...err, let me qualify that...in an American truck frame. (Not that tin foil crap Kias are pressed out of!)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedram View Post
I could not agree more.......to the above described response.....
Great build- I admire your skills and the time you have to bring this truck back from the dead and better than new.......Carry on.
Ya know the biggest gift in all this was that gift of time God gave me. I never thought this would happen...I was on top of my game participating in the war effort as an old fart pilot and station manager and lead pilot and bottle washer. Huge paycheck but no time to myself.
Wake up every morning at 0450, try to get to bed by 2230, 6 days a week. Then 8-10 hours a day hanging under a set of rotor blades. Descending 19 times a day into possible enemy fire, day after day after month after year...Five years straight of combat flying. Then all at once all that ended, changed with a bang (Literally)
A medevac later I was without a job! I find myself back in a United States I no longer understand with a huge medical problem and no job, no income.
That's when I found out about the lottery, and I won I guess. There was an insurance policy...
Funny, but when I got on the plane to leave my home for the last time (Not knowing it was the last time) I prayed a heartfelt prayer, "Father please don't make me go back to that place anymore"
I prayed that and now I don't have to go back there any more.
So I play around with these trucks and raise some spirits here and there I suppose, but I want to be clear on this point.
These trucks mean nothing! They are simply a means, as is this web site and thread. A means to hold God and Jesus up as my Lord and Savoir. Nothing else matters. No frame bolts, no John Deere Paint, nothing.
God did not spare me to waste my time on truck parts.
So those of you here, read this all in that knowledge. This is good clean American fun bathed in his spirit (I hope). It is not me. I am a little less than nothing and I only want to use this "Extra-Credit" time he has given me for his purposes. The second those truck builds cease to serve him, I no longer need them.
OK, off Rant!
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OK, Build Day 61
Some stuff was removed, some modified, some renewed, some installed and all manner of things happening.
First you'll recall I was soaking some parts in the rust dissolver. Let's look at some "Before" shots
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Yes, that's the 825I Gator project sitting in the background
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That think is all wholly-buggered out...fast little ride there
Here's the stuff I soaked the parts with. I laid them out last night, woke up wee early, rotated them then removed them in the afternoon, so they were cooking maybe 8 hours per side
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You can see the rust did get removed for the most part. Next I scrubbed them, then took a wire brush to them. Most of the pipes were still covered with a thick coating of zinc
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The tail-gate handle cleaned up nice!
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Since the parts were mostly still zinc coated on the outside, I decided to use the copper rich primer on them, two coats pretty please!
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At this point some of those parts are looking as good as new so I think I will be OK, however, there was some pitting and corrosion on the inside.
While all that dried, it was time to install the driveshaft.
Check out these cool U-Joint caps that Shawn at Great Lakes Off-Road sells:
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The nippan/Tiwan part is only for comparison, showing you factory to GLO's part.
I wonder which will stand the test of time?
So, with those in hand, in went the super strong custom driveshaft
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Since I had it all jacked up, this was a good time to install the proper length spring bolts. The ones I had earlier were too short.
I did not tighten them down very much, wanting instead to allow the spring to move radially in it's mount to give it freedom to travel more freely, and farther.
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Today I did some cyphering with regard to the suspension. Given that now I have 36.75" OD tires in lieu of the 32.8" that are bolted on at the moment, I knew I was going to have to do something about the suspension height/wheel well opening/wheel spacing and some other factors.
What I decided to do was to build in an adjustable air spring. I selected a triple convoluted spring that collapses to 4" and stretches to nearly 14"!
That will be going on top of the U-Bolts and off set a little and I am pulling the factory block, a 3" unit and replacing it with a 4" Iron block.
The additional 1" of lift will be static, and I can use the bag to adjust the height up as much as I might need.
Today I removed the factory bump-stops and cleaned and painted the frame.
The springs have internal bump stops (How cool is that?) but I'll set the height of full squash so that I won't tear the shocks up and use some Hummer urethane bump stops and work them into the design.
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Here's an old trick I learned to keep salt and other crap out of the spring bushings. Simply drill a hole all the way through everything except the bolt, then add in a zerk fitting!
Pump in your grease and say goodbye to corrosion!
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I need to replace the rubber hose parts of the fuel tank filler, so I selected this quality Gates 1.75" ID hose. I might just cut away part of the area of the existing lower filler pipe which was most heavily corroded and replace it with a length of this stuff
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With the end of the work day approaching, it was finally paint time, so out came the sprayer, in went the Lycoming gray and the whole mess changed color again
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And here is where it all sits tonight:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hossified View Post
That kind of attention to detail is rare these days
Thank You
And I agree
Not to say I'm something, not at all
But, to say that there is a certain lacking in the "Attention to detail" arena these days.
Perhaps I'm wrong, just my observation.
You'll notice not a great deal of what I am doing here is high tech or requires a host of special tools, just a lot of work and close attention to every detail.
Maybe good car crafting is becoming somewhat of a lost art form, and perhaps this meager effort I have going on here will inspire some to step up the game.
Perhaps the lack of detail in todays builds is indicative of a bigger issue???
Hmmm???
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OK, build time boys and girls
Say,
We have any girls reading this thread?
Just thought about it for the very first time...
Anyway, with the paint all cured, the fuel filler pipe assembly, got assembled!
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Next up was the sway bar frame mounts
They bolted up in a fairly straight forward manner.
I used nylon locking nuts the grade 8 frame bolts and a couple of stainless washers
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At this point the brackets are single shear only...I wanted to add in a rear bracket to brace the mount from both sides. I think that if I didn't, eventually the up and down movement would fatigue the steel mount and cause a failure. This simple "Z" bracket will stop all those shenanigans!
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went off to painting so will be installed in a day or so.
Next, with the truck jacked up to relax the spring enough, I slid the end link inside the mount and bolted it up.
The second bolt you see is the stud where the tab will bolt up
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In practical terms, that project is now in the bag, time to move on.
Now, finally, I'll tackle the rear anti-hop/traction bar.
Here is what I will be using, a product from ruff stuff
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Then I temporarily assembled either end so I could start fitting things
Pay no attention to the hardware...All that will change in the final assembly
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some beefy stuff!
I think the rear mount is going to fall in here some where:
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And the front mount will be integrated into this cross member, the frame, and the exhaust hanger
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Here is the shackle that will soon hang from the front cross member
You will notice the rod end is already fitted to the lower end of the shackle.
The operation is simple. As the axle travels up and down, the shackle will move slightly fore and aft as the distance changes.
But once power is applied to the axle, as the tires rotate clockwise, the anti-torque reactive force is the axle itself moving nose up or rolling counter clockwise. That bending moment twists the spring into a slight "S"
As it reaches a point where it can resist the force it lets go, so to speak and violently rolls backward. We feel all this as a hopping up and down that not only loses traction, but can rip U-Joints out of the driveshaft.
With this simple traction bar, as the axle first starts to react to the torque of pushing the tires, it will push the front of the traction bar upward. If the force is sufficient it will actually raise the body somewhat. The action of the body raising pushes downward on the axle and tires with an equal force, thus planting the rubber even harder
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You guessed it, that pipe, or at least a small piece of it is going in there shortly.
I collected the pieces parts and started fitting things
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Earlier in the build, I had placed the primary exhaust system hangar on this very same cross member, so I loosened everything and moved the clamp forward, and rotated the band clamp out of the way
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Again, I'm going to utilize the preexisting holes in the frame, including these 4 beauties:
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...to fit this hefty 3/8" thick piece of steel angle, the lower portion of this new mount
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The top mount will likewise utilize the existing holes and even the muffler frame mount
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I trimmed up the lower mount, drilled the holes, then tapped them for a 3/8" bolt
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That plasma cutter does a respectable job!
Then the lower piece was bolted in as well
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Then a short section of the pipe was cut and fitted between the two Angles and tacked into place
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Here's a view from the left rear
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Here's the SOB (State of the build) tonight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cudakidd53 View Post
Love the traction/panhard bar Don! Question for you, how would this set-up effect a daily driver set-up as far as ride comfort etc.? Very familiar with race application on dirt, but comfort was not in my limited mental framework while trying to beat other rednecks going around in circles- smoothest ride I remember in a race car was being airborn down the front stretch, right up until landing!
It rides pretty good from what I remember.
I installed my own version of this setup on my Tundra and drove that around (Several malls) and even within 100 feet of some dirt once!
It definitely eliminates all wheel hop and sort of feels like you got bumped in the rear end when you launch.
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Before I start building again tonight, Here is a shot of that corroded tail gate handle after less than a minute of media blasting.
Duane brought over his blast gun to replace mine, which was malfunctioning. With his gun the cabinet ran fine for awhile, then started acting up again...
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And the UPS man showed up with this:
A front sway bar, an ADDCO 1.25" solid bar which will be going in with the soon to come front suspensio
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I continued to chip away on the traction bar fab/install
Here is the rear mount, just sort of jammed in there and hanging out
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Then the tacked up shackle mount was removed for welding
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I added a spacer to push the shackle down a little bit to give it proper clearance from the bottom of the frame
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Yea, I know, went a little crooked on that lateral weld.
I really need to clean the lens of my mask!
Next the bushing mount was added and welded in
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That is one beefy chunk of metal!
It slid right back into the frame rail as if it was made to fit there!
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The bushing installed
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Here is the orientation of the rod end
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This is the main beam which I think will have to be the top bar, since the lower mount is getting pretty close to the sway bar arm
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I just popped the bar up on top of it's aft mount to see how things were aligning
I'm surprised to see it is nearly level and alignment is about perfect
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And here's the S.O.B. tonight:
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, while we're waiting on the turkey, BOD (Big old Don) or "the BOD"
was out measurin' and cypherin'
But before all that, here's the lift blocks...I think I'll do some smoothing on them:
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That block is 1" taller than the factory block but devoid of that pesky shoulder which is getting all in the way of what's now going on in there.
The 1" additional lift will e augmented with this 2 lobe air spring which is going in right here.
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I ordered a 3-lobe, but got this 2-lobe unit instead. I think it was providence, since this one will actually work better.
I'll mount a simple angle on the top and build a fixture that bolts onto the top threads of those long U-bolts.
Now you know why I made them so long...
So next, I mounted up one of the mil 37" HMMV wheels all stock line to take some measurements.
The existing wheels were tucked too far inside the fender for my likes. If I set the B.S. at 3.5" then It should place the tire tread almost 2" farther outboard than the Hercules tires pictured. That has to be nearly perfect!
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Plenty of stud projecting through the Armee
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Speaking of studs, suddenly there are a lot of them!
And take a gander of that air valve:
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The hub is hanging way out there. Of course that will get tucked inside a bunch of wheel shortly
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un modified it would fit in an emergency, however for normal ops is way too close to the frame
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"Military"
That can't be wrong!
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My hand and the blue tape shows about where the outside of the tire will be after recentering.
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OK kiddies, lets get this contraption bar built!
But first, since I really needed to bolt in this new lift block first, I used a flap wheel 80 grit, thank you berry much, to Purdy it up some.
The real reason is if you get rid of all that roughness, there is less of a chance for rust to start in and it makes for an overall mo-better finish when the paint finds it's home
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Then I bolted in the inside frame brace for the sway bar end link mounts to make that a double shear, no movement area!
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I got a little mileage out of that WW2 OD green paint. I gave the two gallons cans of it to Duane so he can use it on his Cobra kit car if he ever talks me into painting it for him.
Next it was on to the contraption bar starting with cleaning off the axle so I could weld the aft mount in.
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Then the sparks went ah' flyin'
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Once the smoke all cleared, it looked permanized!
Not sure if that is a word
But who cares
Anyone actually read this drivel?
Probably not
So I'll labor on anyway.
With the mount in it was time to attach a bushing sleeve to the tubing. Using a hole saw and plenty of cheapo 90Wt oil, I cut the fish mouth on the first piece using the drill press.
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Then with a lot of cleaning of the surface, the two pieces were welded together with the Miller 212 Mig
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Then to the smaller diameter brace tube
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After bolting the main tube in, I measured it up for the front threaded bung, removed it, cut the tube then checked it all before welding:
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The rear sway bar added to the complexity of the design. If I simply connected the lower bar and welded it to the front, it would reduce the sway bar's working room and cause problems.
To solve for this, I built a "Box" around the bar with a couple more fish mouth cuts and a short length of DOM.
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I'm one step out of sequence, but just before that box thing was created, the front of the main bar got welded up
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To complete the lower bar, the remaining length was fishmouth cut on an angle and the front end beveled, then it was tacked into place
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Then the thing was removed and finished welded, then cleaned up
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Ya know that thing the Rangers say, about "walking in the woods like you were sneakin' up on a deer?"
It got quiet...The dogs ran off, so I did what any good soldier would do and checked my surroundings.
Look what I caught "Sneakin" up on me, M4 at the ready:
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He didn't see me snap the first shot, he thought I was preoccupied!
Another ambush foiled!
So now everything got hung up in the hanging jungle and got cleaned and darker
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Then I changed it's color once again:
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And here is the SOB at the end of build day 65:
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OK, build time again.
First up today was the removal of the smooth and shiny new lift blocks from the hanging jungle.
They are replacing the old ones which you may remember I reconditioned and repainted
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The old block was 3" tall, this one is 4", obviously providing another inch of lift. I am building a bit of insurance into the suspension with consideration to the larger diameter military tires.
The blocks were physically much larger and dwarfed the wedge sky jacker attaches to the bottom of the hi arch spring. I'm not 100% comfortable with the fact that the block is larger than the wedge/contact area, but sometimes, you just have to take what you get
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With the suspension at the corrected height. it was time to bolt in the traction bar. First I assembled it on a bench
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The welded in mount area turned out OK with the fresh(er) paint
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ran a tap through the holes in the nose mount, then slid that into place and started bolting it up
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It bolted up just fine
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That mount is not only uber strong, but also triangulated and anchored that side of the cross member, which is the largest in the aft of the frame.
I did some trimming to the muffler front mount by first shortening the studs, then tapp9ing them. Then as I was finishing tapping the thing, I twisted it all to heck and back. I guess all that weight lifting I do works...!
So I built another one with the bolts aligned, shorter and tucked up some more. It's a better fit
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Then it was time to lube the bushings and hardware.
I used a special "Poly" lube which is sticky and stringy, but lasts like a bad cousin staying over too late.
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That made sliding it all together much easier than when I was fabbing the thing
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Then the new muffler mount was reinstalled
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OK, we can call the traction bar project in the bag...time to move on
Next up I'll be mounting the air bags.
Now, you might have noticed that this suspension is going to pretty flexy, that is if I detach a sway bar link, and if I just bolt the air bag into place, I believe the suspension will flex enough to tear the bag apart.
Therefore, just like I did in the Chevy, this one will be constructed to extend full, then the mount itself will expand several more inches to allow full travel of that spring.
With that in mind, here is how the lower mount will be constructed
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The inner cylinder will be welded to the U-Bolt plate, and the larger sleeve will be welded to a disk which is bolted to the bottom of the air spring.
The spring will end up sitting about here:
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Remember I said I was going to do something about that?
The upper mount will use those holes and be built from a plate that covers all that mess and bolts through some of those holes.
So, that was it for build day 66
Here's the S.O.B. at the end of the day
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cudakidd53 View Post
Don, did you watch any Extreme RV this weekend? I caught it and immediately thought of you! Military International "like" All Wheel drive with center pivot mounted, telescoping camper box using beadlocks on military wheels and tires. Made in Missouri, four letter town name starts with an "E"..... No, it's not a joke.
We need to open up the discussion on this tactical camper thing
We'll call it:
TacCam
If you're a military pilot it sounds like TACAN
Anyway, what we have going on here is the grand experiment.
Starting off with an EMP proof dirt floor, as reliable as a sunrise, vehicle. Just about any part fits, and frankly there are far fewer of them than with the chevy. None of them are subject to anything that will kill them and most things on this truck that stop working can be corrected with a hammer!
That's survival DNA right there.
So what started as a backup and spare to the D-Max is finding it's way as an equal or more.
I had a big rush on this truck so I could dive into the SAS on the Chevy. Then a combination of immature technology for the chevy stuff and a growing interest in this gem of a truck has spawned what is at the very least a restoration plus.
Had I thought I would be going this far, I would be assembling fresh fenders onto a freshly dipped frame but I did not plan on going this far initially.
The same force is still at work, still very much in play here.
I built tac topper one resulting in an overweight fail. Then came a lighter and better designed topper 2 which busted the weight budget late in the build and it too failed. I settled on a commercial aluminum topper and just gave up on the idea of being able to live out of it in extremis.
But considering this truck, the Dodge, why couldn't I build a unimog looking full on militarized expedition vehicle out of the truck right now. I mean, possibly flat bedding it and purchasing aluminum welding equipment and starting with the aluminum structure of a built on living quarters right on the truck and completely integrated into the truck design?
Well, simply, I could, and I want to. But there would go the utility of a truck right out the garage door! But I would have a true full on survival vehicle. The Chev easily tows the 36 foot RV, so that thing carries a nice house anywhere I want. The Dodge could climb into a holler or mountain pass if needed and sit it out there if properly built.
So while I weld, and sand, and bolt, I am seeing dead space where a 2K generator could be fitted, a 20 gal water tank, a slide out stove and the like.
I'm thinking about it, just not solid in moving in that direction yet.
Think about it, you would be able to turn to this silly thread for years to come and see another ten thousand pics and posts on the never ending build!
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Well, lets get started on the air spring mounts.
We will build some brackets and show everyone how to turn plate steel into the parts one needs. Pricing spring buckets from Ballistic, I saw prices from $40 to $50.
I spent $12 on this sheet of 3/16" plate steel
Granted it took me all day, but this piece was not stamped on a die, it was home cooked
Here is the area of interest:
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Once I decided where it was going to fit, the next step was to create a template and fit that to the frame and bag
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That covered all those unsightly holes and fit nicely.
I then made a template out of 1/4" plywood to use to create the steel parts
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That was clamped to the plate steel and a quick drag with the plasma torch produced the blanks
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Next, the corner gussets
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The plate will have to be bent into a 90 degree "L" so I used an old trick of cutting the bend line leaving some small bridges of parent steel:
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Then some grinding with the 60 grit flap wheel and we're on the way
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Then, with the brackets clamped in place over the holes, I dusted some black paint over the holes to mark the drill points for the frame mount.
Having made a template for the top of the air spring mounting bolts and air connection, I made those holes as well
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Then over to the brake to bend the 90
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After some adjustments I had a true 90 so I tacked then welded in the side gussets
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Then I made a second
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While those were heating the atmosphere, I cut out the bottom spring mount from the same plate
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Then I made another paper bolt hole template and located the spots for the mount screws
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Then those were welded to the bottom slider
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Those fit here:
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Time for clean up and paint
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Then a coat of copper rich U-Pol primer meant for corrosive environments
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After drying, three coats of Nason Acrylic enamel with hardner
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I really don't care if I get a run or two, it's more important to get this nearly unseen part completely covered so it can live down there in the water, mud, exhaust fumes, salt and jap kar parts.
Anyway, I'm tired so here's the S.O.B for build day 67:
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All righty, lets get the air spring mod finished up
The paint dried so after searching out some brass fittings, it was assembly time.
First up, I welded the stationary cylinder to the spring plates
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Then the air spring was mated to the cylinder base
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Next, the brass fittings were screwed in with plenty of Teflon tape
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Then the spring assembly was mated to the top bracket
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I used plenty of grease to hold off the effects of corrosion and moisture.
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All of that was slid over the lower cylinder, then bolted permanently to the frame.
All those bolts are total overkill. But since I drilled all those holes, what the heck, I felt I might as well use them (All)!
That's 16 3/8" frame bolts holding those air springs in place. It really only needs 4 per side.
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The air lines simply slide in and lock into the fitting completing the installation, well as far as I can presently go with it
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Here's some views of the now completed rear suspension
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OK, that project is in the bag, time to move on again.
Next up is a second aft mounted battery
Here are some of the parts we will be using
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Of particular interest is this cool battery box
It has a back plate which bolts to the frame. That threads into the battery box and is held together by a large stainless spring clip/catch. The cool thing about this box is that it allows you to tuck a battery way up high but if you ever need to service the battery, you simply lower the box or remove it all together with one hand.
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Here is the box hanging in the lower or maintenance position
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And here it is tucked up in the "carry" position
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I'll be using 2 gage PVC coated copper cable
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These nifty mounting lugs will allow me to remote mount a set of jumper cables, or ???
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And these will cover the terminals
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Here's the supplied lug mount, but I think I'll do something different in the bumper I will soon construct
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I ran out of time to start fabbing, but me thinks it will be going in here:
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KC (Kool Cat) was watching over things
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And here is the SOB at the conclusion of BD 68
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That's the general concept, but these styles, are more solidly mounted, proven in thousands of aircraft, FAA approved (which is a total nightmare,) and unique enough to discourage theft.
Anyway, it's not a big issue, only a consideration as I move forward and build some utility into the bumper design.
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OK, time to post up today's progress.
The weather is messing with me, so there was not as much progress as I'd like.
Having completed the Air Springs, the rear mounted second battery is next in queue.
It gets mounted here:
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The original spare tire mount was removed in favor of something much stronger
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The plan is to anchor the new frame into each side frame rail. It will actually be constructed in two halves, bolting together in the center. This will facilitate installation since it will actually be larger than the opening due to the shape of the frame.
So first up was to construct the side pieces. I cut them to fit in there snugly and again utilize some of the many holes preexisting in the frame. Once punching the holes, I welded sleeves into the box sections to prevent crushing when the bolts were tightened.
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Then each side was slid into place and loosely bolted up
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The idea is to bolt this new inner frame to the existing frame and cross members wherever the opportunity presents itself. Looking at it, there will be no need to drill additional holes
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The other leg and the center piece were then tacked into place. The forward bar is tilted to give it more clearance from the 4" exhaust pipe
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This "L" ties the two cross members together much the same as in the original design
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I envision the battery tray sitting about here:
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I picked up some 3/16" plate to armor up that area some once the frame is completed
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And the S.O.B. at the end of Build Day 69
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OK not to dwell on a step backwards
The battery box mount is about done. I might fit something else in there yet, so it hasn't been removed for painting yet, but that's coming right up!
Here's the start point for today's labor
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The battery box support frame needed to be tied into the cross member. Using existing holes, I cut some spacers and drilled the holes into the box tubing
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The large piece of angle will serve as a stiffener and will join the two halves of the interior frame together. Here it is drilled for 4- 7/16" bolts
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Yep, that's .250" thick steel. so nothing is going to be moving in that area!
Next the two legs were cut and tacked in to complete the box
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Then spacers and bolts were added to that section as well
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Then two more tie-ins were added between the front of the box and the shock mount cross member. This is probably the strongest that cross member has or will ever be!
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Then the battery box mount itself was drilled into place. Note that the bolt also captures the left half of the two piece frame uniting the two pieces in two separate axis
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A quick check for fit shows everything is fitting together like peas and carrots!
The box is shown in the lowered and the raised/stored position
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Then two "Down" legs were added to further anchor the soon to be filled battery box
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You can see that there is no significant loss in ground clearance with the addition of this box
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This was going on outside:
I open the garage doors maybe twice an hour to evacuate the stale dusty air, get all cold, then light the heater and repeat.
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Shawn and Duane will appreciate this.
I was looking at that proportioning valve and it suddenly occurred to me I could mount it differently and get the protection everyone thinks I need.
Here is the start:
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And this is what the change man did:
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The nylon tube got melted to death...hot metal does that to nylon, cardboard welding tables, stools and other flammable things, so no worries, it will get "Newed"
It was time for chicken and dumplings, so here is the S.O.B. at the end of build day 70
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Speaking of adding weight, I added some more useful weight this afternoon. let's take a look.
This is the area I will be adding some plating and a pump
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The truck will need an onboard air supply. The rear bumper will be the air tank, and this ARB unit will be the air pump
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It's a respectable, albeit noisy little unit.
I fashioned up this plate to mount it high up in the frame. the base plate is 3/16" steel
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This is about where I think it should be mounted. That will leave room in there for something else which is always coming
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Actually, let me correct myself. It will be mounted aft. in the previous pic it was sitting forward
The holes indicate where it will sit.
I tacked the plate in and checked the fit again
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The fit looks good. Plate beneath, frame to the outside and soon to be battery to the left
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Fit and placement looks good
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With everything added that I plan for the moment, I pulled the frame halves out and finished welding them together
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As per normal, I used the rotary wire brush on everything, then cleaned everything with brake cleaner in prep for the paint
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Then the primer was sprayed on
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And then the Lycoming gray
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And that wraps up the building of the rear battery frame. I'll install it and run some cables next and wire the air pump in.
Here's the truck at the end of Build Day 71
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No church today...roads are horrible and it's still snowing...
So yestertag I am happily burning metal and bending stuff when I discover just how powerful a plasma cutter really is.
Hypertherm has a great feature. It has a starter arc. It's actually a ray gun. It blows out a lower amperage plasma stream...that is an electrical arc (220VAC) in a focused jet of 90 psi air. So yea, it's a ray gun.
Remember the scene in Ailens three or two where you are inside the survival capsul and all of a sudden some jet thing cuts a fast straight hole right through the door? Well that is a plasma cutter doing it's thing.
So I'm happily cutting this and occasionally pointing it at the cat and pulling the trigger (Because they jump like 6 feet into the air!) and I hit the trigger when my hands were in all the wrong position. I am wearing gloves...That fact is important or I would not be typing my "T's", "G's", or "F's" Without relearning rudimentary skills.
Well you know how fast you can move your hand when you grab a hot manifold or something stupid like that. There is timing involved there. You sense it with the nerves getting vaporized, then the pain signal has to travel to your brain which is, what...about some 3 feet of wire's length away. THat electric signal travels at the speed of light. So we're talking a couple nano seconds here. Then the "OH CRAP, I'M ON FIRE" signal has to spread all over your face then travel back to your arm actuators to pull back away from danger...A few more Nano seconds.
So all of that takes a billionth of a second, give or take... Well in less than that amount of time my glove turned into hot searing gas! The type of gas that things like the surface of the sun is made up of mostly. Then in the next couple fractions of those micro-Nano seconds (If there is such a measurement) the raw plasma reacted with my dermis. My skin did not do so so well against that raw steel melting power, but much to my surprise, instead of seeing a charred stubble of a finger on the floor, it was still attached to my hand!
I had to pull out my best 2" masking tape to repair that one. Of course the pain caused a failure on some recent (And obviously inferior) dental work, but, hey, I'll get that fixed. For me, I learned something! And for you the typing speed is only mildly impacted.
Mission continues!
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OK dog or no dog, the build goes on! And I am going to return her as soon as I can figure out who that is.
Back to bees wax as my daddy used to say. I think that means back to business, not completely sure.
SO today it was time to reinstall that "Sub frame" assembly
Here it is going in
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With the left section at the ready
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Those two halves were such a tight fit it took a rubber mallet to smack it in all in there and get it to fit
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Then the back of the battery tray, which I secured with 6 ea 5/16" bolts with nylon locking nuts
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Speaking of batteries, here it is:
An interstate deep cycle group 24 battery
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To get it to fit the battery box, I actually had to saw off the handle extensions molded into the battery sides
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With that sawed off, the battery dropped right in place into the box which is now locked into the vehicle sub frame
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Then it was time to permanently mount the ARB air pump. I decided to install it with rubber biscuits on either side of the base to try to isolate some of the noise it makes...Those things are noisy!
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It fit like a glove and was tightened down
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Then I screwed in a 3/8" nipple into the air intake so I could run a flex line somewhere dry, and installed a slip fit 1/4" air line fitting into the pump discharge. And that finished my time for today
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And here it is, gaining a little more color and weight at the end of build day 72
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DOT
Original: Den of Thieves
Morphed to: De-railer of threads
Who?: Those who participate in these so called build discussions who completely change the subject to things of no relevance.
Assignment of the "DOT membership": Apparently pretty random. One can make an intro deviation to the discussion, then arbitrarily hence forth be called a DOT.
Can be carefully vetted by other DOTs (or not).
Can self assign status through public proclamation.
And as I see sometimes, a person might always have been a DOT, and is more or less "Revealed" through his/her statements.
DOT Leadership: Seems to be secretive. I would suspect a loose organizational leadership structure. Suspected higher level leaders seem to be Nate, Shawn and possibly THE ring leader, Ash. Other high level well respected DOTs are El Tate, Duane, Dominic, Ken, and Darren to name a few
Recruitment and training: Seems to have occurred and is on going. Evidence points to seemingly normal people showing up in the discussion threads then without warning displaying a strong and effective technique for discussion de-railment
History: They seem to have started spontaneously. Kind of like the universe exploding into existence...God just did that part all at once. It is even possible that I created it myself...
Purpose: Disruption, confusion and side tracking of otherwise useful discussions. For example, a technical wiring discussion can suddenly be sidetracked to discussing dog bites.
Future: Well they are growing in numbers daily. The myriad of subject derailments boggles the mind...to the point where I seem not to mind and, am actually losing my mind.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetrodchev View Post
Has the fate of the red dog been decided? Has the grey german shepherd learned any new words?
I'm teaching the gray dog all sorts of words...dammed smart dog that one. At the moment, there are two cats camped at the bottom of the cage and every once in awhile that bird barks at them. The katz seem really confused by the whole thing. Last night the gray shepherd was walking around the floor when in crept two cats. What should have ended badly turned into a Mexican standoff with both cats looking at the bird while it was hissing at them like a cat does!
Imagine a bird that smart enough to use understandable language to thwart off a cat ambush!
The red dog is on my no friend list. I want to get rid of it, but that will cause strife with the wife. So I'm thinking about what Mike said here, to take it on long walks and wear it out. If the roads clear, I'm going to do that next. Meanwhile if it drinks paint thinner or chews a hot 220 line, so be it!!
Note: the gray Germ Shepherd is actually an African gray parrot which I very much dislike!
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Looking at the following concept, I think I will do the same approximate thing. Make a flat aluminum plate with bevel, flush mounted hardware and the two filler caps, one for fuel, one for water/methanol mounted side by side and appropriately labeled in some subdued lettering.
BTW, that is the exact OD green this truck will wear
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OK, update time
Working through bad dog and sick ranger problems.
Taking up a bit of my time
I posted earlier where I ordered all the water/methanol tank pieces parts so that I can mount that in the back of the frame. Object being that everything that is going in there needs to go in there before it gets covered up with the newly stripped bed.
So in that vein, I got some of the wiring done. I needed to wire in the battery and will also need to wire up the air pump. Some of that got done today.
First, I wanted to share this. That cat is bigger than that box...How he gets in those places is beyond me
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Seems I have a bit of history with those feline creatures. Here's one camping out in the cockpit of my gunship in Kandahar
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I needed a good ground so I welded a 3/8" bolt into one of the existing holes
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Then built a simple ground cable, soldering the ends in place
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And attached it so that it would accommodate the battery being in the up or down position
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Next up was the mounting of the mega-fuse (Real name) panel.
You want to fuse everything unless you really like uncontrollable fires. I am starting with a 500 amp fuse to run the main cable forward. I'll be able to add fuse boxes on later to supply power to anything I want
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I mounted that in a spot I felt I could get to using a mirror, double jointed hands and in an inverted parallel universe.
I made up the supply cable then double insulated it using the corrugated flex tubing and a wrap of electrical tape.
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And attached it to the fuse block and the battery, anchoring it to the flex point (Base of the box)
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Then I hooked the main supply line and fished it through the frame where I will secure it every foot or so
The fuse block comes with a protective cover that you snap in place ahd it even sports a lanyard in the form of a zip tie.
Makes for a clean sparky free installation
You might also notice I mounted an extra battery terminal so that accessories which will soon exist in that compartment will have their own ground. I'll likely do the same for the positive post.
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With homemade beef stew filling my brain case group with wonderful scents, it is time to stop all this silly typing and go plug some good tastin' calories into the bod.
Here's Square D at the end of a short build day 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustoff 35 View Post
Your wiring skills are improving! You've come a long way!
Remember, you can bring those cables into the Megafuse holders at a 90 if need be. That will eliminate/reduce those 180 degree bends in your cable. Stack 'em up side by side and run a buss bar across for your other high-draw accessories. I may have a few (buss bars) laying around or can quickly fab some up if necessary. Don't forget your relays...
Glad to see the Megafuse holders are mounted to a solid piece of steel that isn't going to flex. When the holder flexes, the fuse flexes and the rivets that hold the black cover of the fuse element can work and eventually pop out, then the fuse cover can dislodge or come off. The fuse cover contains the "shrapnel" if the fuse ever blows. You would be shocked at the noise and flash if you ever saw one of those 500 Amp fuses blow, especially without the riveted on cover...
Make sure to keep a couple of Megafuse spares on hand too. The local autoparts guys won't have them in stock. Especially the high-amperage ones.
Got it covered
I need to order some more spares, since the available spares are already in the gator where I used the mega fuses there.
BTW Folks, Duane speaks with some authority here. HE actually ran the plant that manufactured those fuses at one point!
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All right, I'm back
Had to go get the bed, took a long time, then come home, dress and go out to a proper Christmas party, then pregnant daughter stuff, then babysitting the grandkid, then breakfast with the little rangers, waffle-house style, then go get crickets for the bearded dragon, then a bunch of runnin' around, and now, finally...back to postin'
Got to be short and schweet, cause I have some paintin' to do!
So first up, I laid in some more wiring in that soon to be covered rear compartment
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As you can see the battery cable was snugged in to place at least along the fuel tank.
I also ran a forward h20/Methanol line that will be connected to that Speedway motors tank when it gets here
And I laid in the relay for the air pump and secured some more wiring...whew, and added the extra battery terminals
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I am accumulating enough air lines along the frame to now require me to label and store them until such time as I plug them into their fittings
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I went up to the American metal stripping to pick up the bed. I discovered they also do powder coating. Here are some of the pieces they just did. Gotta love that semi-gloss black!