Post by: Flyin6 on April 27, 2022, 01:15:02 PM
We have seen this truck go from a "barn-find" from Oregon from delivery through many stages of development.
At first I was just replacing normal service life components and "Doing a fluid change"
That term has significant meaning here because it applies to many a vehicle that started out as just a short resto or repair and ended up something short of a SEMA build. That concept is certainly alive and well with respect to this 02 2500 Suburban.
It got repaired, then it got lifted and got a ton of great suspension and steering. It got a gear change to 4.88's and then to 4.56. It has worn 285/70R-16 tires and it has been shod with 35" mud tires and currently wears 37" A/T's.
It once sported a 14 bolt semi-floater and stock 4.10 ratio, then for a time was fitted with a crazy Dana 80 out of a militarized up-armored Suburban. In the current configuration it as a very nicely Great Lakes Off-road (GLO-Shawn) 14 bolt full floater with Tate sourced (Yukon gear/Randy's ring and pinion) with a dura-trak and 4.56's.
The motor was freshened up with a mild overhaul at 96,000 miles and fitted with GM performance stuff, a .551" lift cam and LS-6 heads which was tuned by Skaats Performance and put down almost 500 horsepower to the ground on the 35's of that time. That would be a hundred more if it has a Camaro size tire by comparison! The motor was later on fitted with a blower cam and a LSA supercharger set to max out at 12 psi. The big HP numbers were post supercharger install.
I thought about putting a Duramax into it and then I thought I'd bolt in a Vortec 8100. I even purchased that, but after really digging into the cost of doing that right I was right back near Duramax territory, so I scrapped that idea too.
Post by: Flyin6 on April 27, 2022, 01:25:05 PM
So for now, no big months-long project for it to endure, just some targeted fixes.
The monster transmission converter was a joke
The Circle-D converter was nothing like what I told them to build over and over. But Brian down there apparently had his own ideas, insisting to build a 265mm high stall unit in lieu of the low stall I was asking for and paid for. His low stall unit could be brake-torqued to over 3,000RPM so it was anything but. They simply did not do what they said they would do.
I have had a good converter company cut apart the monster unit to discover it was only a stocker. They wrestled over this Circle-D unit for months and finally landed on a stock like GM LSA unit for a 6L-80 transmission. It has a lower stall than a 6.0 truck because the blower can build some power before the engine starts to make any at the lower revs.
They have built me one from a 13" converter with a billet cover and a big clutch and finally, a lower stall. John at SS Transmissions is currently installing that
The other torque converters just ruined a good truck with 7-9 mpg. I aim to change that, first with a converter then later with some other significant changes.
Follow along as I work to get this great truck dialed in as something that can cruise America, pull my light camper and hopefully provide me reliable service and better mpg's
Post by: JR on May 04, 2022, 06:48:04 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on May 05, 2022, 10:59:49 PM
The truck is great
That torque converter fixed everything. This burb now has all sorts of power and is really nice to drive.
I am very surprised that one change can make this much difference. Now when I put it in gear, it wants to move. When I step on the gas, it feels eager. When I press on the gas pedal a bit more, I'm into all sorts of boost and the truck is moving with authority.
There is no more revving at all. It acts almost normal except that it has a metric ton more power. I actually may not have to do anything else except solve the heated O2 sensor problem.
Its too early to tell, but it doesn't seem to be using gas like it used to. When I'd make a trip to/from the city, I'd see a slight movement off full. I've driven the truck to/from town three times and it has just started to show a decrease in fuel.
I think I am going to like this very much
Post by: JR on May 05, 2022, 11:18:51 PM
I am looking for a Tahoe as a DD. 4x4, about 100k and not black is all I want.
Post by: EL TATE on May 06, 2022, 11:58:11 AM
Ride report: W O W
The truck is great
That torque converter fixed everything. This burb now has all sorts of power and is really nice to drive.
I am very surprised that one change can make this much difference. Now when I put it in gear, it wants to move. When I step on the gas, it feels eager. When I press on the gas pedal a bit more, I'm into all sorts of boost and the truck is moving with authority.
There is no more revving at all. It acts almost normal except that it has a metric ton more power. I actually may not have to do anything else except solve the heated O2 sensor problem.
Its too early to tell, but it doesn't seem to be using gas like it used to. When I'd make a trip to/from the city, I'd see a slight movement off full. I've driven the truck to/from town three times and it has just started to show a decrease in fuel.
I think I am going to like this very much
congrats. sounds like that darned converter was the major gremlin all along
Post by: Flyin6 on May 06, 2022, 05:14:37 PM
Both that Monster POJ and the Circle-D Bigger POC.Ride report: W O W
The truck is great
That torque converter fixed everything. This burb now has all sorts of power and is really nice to drive.
I am very surprised that one change can make this much difference. Now when I put it in gear, it wants to move. When I step on the gas, it feels eager. When I press on the gas pedal a bit more, I'm into all sorts of boost and the truck is moving with authority.
There is no more revving at all. It acts almost normal except that it has a metric ton more power. I actually may not have to do anything else except solve the heated O2 sensor problem.
Its too early to tell, but it doesn't seem to be using gas like it used to. When I'd make a trip to/from the city, I'd see a slight movement off full. I've driven the truck to/from town three times and it has just started to show a decrease in fuel.
I think I am going to like this very much
congrats. sounds like that darned converter was the major gremlin all along
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 06, 2022, 09:15:31 PM
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Post by: Sammconn on May 07, 2022, 10:00:24 AM
I put a high stall converter in a caprice classic yeas ago with a paltry 305.
Did a couple things with timing and fuel.
Most 5.0 mustangs didn’t know what the heck just happened.
Dad knew I did something but no idea…
I’m glad to hear this is sorted. I hope.
I didn’t suggest this as we all “thought” you were dealing with experts. At least I did.
Run it and see what ya got now chief.
Post by: oklawall on May 07, 2022, 08:15:28 PM
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 15, 2022, 06:31:43 PM
But the mileage remains poor, so I have the thing in my garage once again and am tearing into it.
I know I have a problem with bank 1 O2 sensors. The heater circuit is not working for either side and is throwing the applicable codes, no matter how many times I reset it. That is where I am currently looking, but I'm having a dandy of a time figuring which wire(s) run the heater element.
I have the standard GM 4-wire O2 sensor. Two wires measure the O2 molecules and deliver that information to the ECM. That leaves two wires for the heater element. I assume one is power from the ECM/PCM and one is the ground for that circuit. I have the wiring diagrams but it is not clear which wires I should be dealing with.
My plan is to bypass whatever may be going on with the PCM/ECM or where professor numbskull dug into my wiring harness years ago and switched things up. To make that a lot simplier, my plan is to use the fuel pump relay as a signal circuit to switch a relay which will switch direct battery current directly to the O2 sensor heater circuits. Simple enough once I figure out which wires to deal with.
But while underneath just now I noticed something strange. I grabbed onto the front driveshaft and it IS NOT free spinning! What gives? With the truck in 2WD and with an open diff in the front, I should be able to turn that propeller shaft, correct? Sliding under the D-Max truck parked a few feet away, that front drive shaft rotates in 2WD/stationary...So, something is different
HELP!
Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 15, 2022, 08:28:47 PM
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 15, 2022, 08:43:48 PM
Jack it up and spin it. See if a wheel turns. If it does then it’s the actuator.Which actuator? the one on the front axle?
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Post by: dave945 on July 15, 2022, 09:18:27 PM
At least I think that would be right. Then again, I’m Air Force, we would have had it taken to a shop if it wasn’t working right
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Post by: JR on July 15, 2022, 10:19:19 PM
If the shaft does not spin free, you have an issue in the Tcase unless AWD.
Mileage may always suck, its big, heavy and a gasser.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 15, 2022, 10:39:19 PM
Yes. If you still can’t spin it. Then it’s the t case.Jack it up and spin it. See if a wheel turns. If it does then it’s the actuator.Which actuator? the one on the front axle?
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 16, 2022, 05:31:42 PM
Here's my logic: I drove it in 2H and it turned and operated normally. Crawling underneath, I could not spin the front driveshaft, however the truck behalved as though it was in 2WD.
I placed the thing into 4H and I got some additional noise from the T-case and making a turn on asphalt almost locked the truck up, it was bindf=ing so tightly. Shifting again into 2H immediately alleviated the binding condition, but the front shaft would not spin.
Now here's the kicker. If you can remember back, I had developed a problem in the front axle after I installed the 4.56 gears. John just happened to have a customer's takeout from a recent 4.56 build in his Chevy 2500 truck. The owner didn't like the steep gears and returned to stock. I purchased that axle, changed the oil, and tossed it in. So, what if someone installed an LS differential in that axle and we never knew?
Now, is there an aftermarket LS diff for the 9.25 AAM/GM front axle?
If not, then I'm fine. If they did, then 50/50 I have one. Assuming it doesn't exist, and I don't have it, the front axle controller must have failed, or the circuit is not working. It is not throwing any codes at the moment.
Post by: Flyin6 on July 16, 2022, 05:39:19 PM
I can't compile data at the moment until I get the front axle situation remedied, but I think I am tracking on a line to get this thing completely sorted and tuned.
Next up, during, or after the front axle thing are two troublesome lights in the instrument cluster. I have a red "Brake" warning light, and an amber "Anti-Lock" caution light illuminated that will come on 5-15 minutes into every drive.
The reason is that the 14-bolt FF axle Shawn supplied does not have a rear wheel speed sensor that I know of so the Anti-lock system will no longer work. Not that I need it, I do not, however, like those lights.
I think to fix this problem, I am going to just pull the instrument cluster, and pop the two bulbs out that illuminate those symbols. Get rid of them and I should be golden.
Post by: stlaser on July 16, 2022, 06:46:35 PM
Rear axle has no abs sensor however Artec Industries makes a kit to add the sensors at the hubs. I use them on late model jeep swaps. You may want to look into that option.
Post by: JR on July 16, 2022, 09:14:16 PM
I really doubt you have a LS up front and it points again to the above, "axle locked". That would allow you to drive OK, but not turn the DS and bind in 4x4.
Hook the rear ABS wire the front, should be the same. I like a "brake" light, tells of low pressure when you may not know.
Post by: Flyin6 on July 17, 2022, 09:25:38 AM
If you can't turn the front drive shaft, then either it or the axle is in 4x4 mode. I vote the actuator is stuck or the ring is. Pull it off, push on the little pad, it should slide back and in/out easy.JR, clever idea there, bro. So, you're saying to lengthen that rear ABS sensor wire and extend it all the way to the front...Then what? Splice it into the front harness somewhere?
I really doubt you have a LS up front and it points again to the above, "axle locked". That would allow you to drive OK, but not turn the DS and bind in 4x4.
Hook the rear ABS wire the front, should be the same. I like a "brake" light, tells of low pressure when you may not know.
I may just go ahead with plan "A" since it is less destructive and frankly easier.
Shawn, I'll look into that kit thing, see what it entails
Thanks to both of "U's"
Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 17, 2022, 09:32:31 AM
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 17, 2022, 09:36:12 AM
I think I fixed something, but could it just be the placebo effect. You know, I fix something and want it to be fixed so much that in my mind I see all sorts of changes.
It's subtle, but like that.
So, I think it idles smoother, more quickly. Before there was the constant smell of gas fumes, not that doesn't seem to be there, but I may not be smelling in, I'm not sure. But driving, it feels crisper. I step on the gas and do not experience a half-second lag, just a nice clean "Push." Although the thing doesn't accelerate hard like you'd expect a supercharged vehicle would, it moves about briskly with what seems like almost no throttle. That is, essentially, the demonstration of "Torque." Well, there is more of that for sure.
My theory is that without properly heating the O2 sensors for the past few thousand miles, it has been running around in some level of the fuel enrichment mode. We all know the factory tunes vehicles pretty fat to prevent the onset of detonation. We all know that normally a tuner will start to lean the mixture, paying close attention to the Wide-Band O2 to get to some better ratios. There is a lot of extra power in the proper leaning of an overly rich tune just as there is the power to gain by advancing the timing to a point.
I want to say that finally, my truck is fueling at closer to the optimum ratio which is translating into this overall increased responsiveness and "crisp" feeling.
So, on to sorting out the front axle to see if I can free that up and get it working properly.
Post by: Flyin6 on July 17, 2022, 09:40:17 AM
One thing to consider. When the ABS light is on i do not believe the system is active. Which means you won’t have ABS. Not a big deal if you know how to drive (stab braking etc) but I’m not sure of the bias setting from front to rear and whether the proportioning is affected. Might be worth doing some emergency braking in a rainy parking lot to see what you are working with.Ahead of you friend.
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When this first started I did a few panic stops. I wanted to make sure it was not a Dodge or early Ram truck. Those would swap ends so easily. All of mine did it to me, and one time my brother borrowed the truck, had to stop abruptly and the truck spun around on him.
So being a graduate student on correcting sliding trucks, I tested mine and this Burb has no such tendencies. It will lock up all four, and rather easily (The big brake kit??) but remains pointed in the direction of travel
That's why I feel I can go sans this anti (knowin' how to drive) system.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 17, 2022, 10:50:58 AM
Have you pulled the plugs to “read” them for richness? One would think the over enriched condition would show on the plugs
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 17, 2022, 11:42:14 AM
Good to know. You are usually ahead of me but it was worth putting out thereYes
Have you pulled the plugs to “read” them for richness? One would think the over enriched condition would show on the plugs
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Very rich earlier on
Haven't checked yet
Have another fuel system problem, a weird one. Plan to give it a full eval after I resolve
Another weird problem: At some point along the way the fuel gage stopped reading full. Only reads something short of 3/4 when topped off. When it is below 1/2 about 3/8 of a tank I will refill. I can only get like 22-23 gal in there.
The dual tank chevies are hybrid and odd animals. The aft tank will fill but will give no indication it has. An owner will notice the fuel gage takes quite a while going from full to 3/4. Then it races to empty much faster than you'd expect.
The reason for this is that the aft 6-gal tank has a fuel pump that will switch on and off to continue to top off the main 31-gal tank until empty. That explains how the needle seems to have two speeds.
I just learned that the computer" or controller or whatever it is splits the single fuel gage into two units! The aft tank fuel level sensor controls the top "half" of the gauge, while the forward/main tank level controls the bottom half of the gage.
So, this makes sense to me now. I believe the aft fuel level sensor has failed and therefore the forward/main fuel tank sensor can only drive the gauge to near 3/4 full.
I think I'll need to replace the aft fuel level sensor and test to see if the aft fuel pump is working.
This may be a good time to change out that aft 6-gal tank for something larger.
Post by: oklawall on July 17, 2022, 01:17:03 PM
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 17, 2022, 10:16:36 PM
For the front axle, would it be easier to remove the drive shaft from the axle you would be able to spin the drive shaft and the yoke and see which is locked up and which isn't.Great idea! Man, sometimes you overthink things so much you forget the basics. Thanks for reminding me!
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Post by: EL TATE on July 18, 2022, 07:03:07 PM
I believe it is the front axle disconnect
Here's my logic: I drove it in 2H and it turned and operated normally. Crawling underneath, I could not spin the front driveshaft, however the truck behalved as though it was in 2WD.
I placed the thing into 4H and I got some additional noise from the T-case and making a turn on asphalt almost locked the truck up, it was bindf=ing so tightly. Shifting again into 2H immediately alleviated the binding condition, but the front shaft would not spin.
Now here's the kicker. If you can remember back, I had developed a problem in the front axle after I installed the 4.56 gears. John just happened to have a customer's takeout from a recent 4.56 build in his Chevy 2500 truck. The owner didn't like the steep gears and returned to stock. I purchased that axle, changed the oil, and tossed it in. So, what if someone installed an LS differential in that axle and we never knew?
Now, is there an aftermarket LS diff for the 9.25 AAM/GM front axle?
If not, then I'm fine. If they did, then 50/50 I have one. Assuming it doesn't exist, and I don't have it, the front axle controller must have failed, or the circuit is not working. It is not throwing any codes at the moment.
a 9.5 semi float GM rear diff can be made to fit in the front IFS 9.25 as they are the same ring gear center diameter bolt pattern and spline count... if the tires spin in the same direction when you jack up you have an LSD. but i'm more concerned about gear ratio accuracy at this point. do you have a 4 post you can get it up on and run in 4wd in the air and check tire rotations?
Post by: JR on July 18, 2022, 07:20:03 PM
Its called threshhold braking or was when I was taught how to do it (lots of spins involved)
Post by: Flyin6 on July 18, 2022, 09:01:07 PM
I believe it is the front axle disconnect
Here's my logic: I drove it in 2H and it turned and operated normally. Crawling underneath, I could not spin the front driveshaft, however the truck behalved as though it was in 2WD.
I placed the thing into 4H and I got some additional noise from the T-case and making a turn on asphalt almost locked the truck up, it was bindf=ing so tightly. Shifting again into 2H immediately alleviated the binding condition, but the front shaft would not spin.
Now here's the kicker. If you can remember back, I had developed a problem in the front axle after I installed the 4.56 gears. John just happened to have a customer's takeout from a recent 4.56 build in his Chevy 2500 truck. The owner didn't like the steep gears and returned to stock. I purchased that axle, changed the oil, and tossed it in. So, what if someone installed an LS differential in that axle and we never knew?
Now, is there an aftermarket LS diff for the 9.25 AAM/GM front axle?
If not, then I'm fine. If they did, then 50/50 I have one. Assuming it doesn't exist, and I don't have it, the front axle controller must have failed, or the circuit is not working. It is not throwing any codes at the moment.
a 9.5 semi float GM rear diff can be made to fit in the front IFS 9.25 as they are the same ring gear center diameter bolt pattern and spline count... if the tires spin in the same direction when you jack up you have an LSD. but i'm more concerned about gear ratio accuracy at this point. do you have a 4 post you can get it up on and run in 4wd in the air and check tire rotations?
It's the same ratio Tate. I can switch it into and out of 4WD driving down the road with nothing mere that a slight rumble from the front shaft. I've been in vehicles with mismatched gear ratios. They tend to want to bind over time and can be a bear to make a tight turn-in. My truck has no such symptoms.I believe it is the front axle disconnect
Here's my logic: I drove it in 2H and it turned and operated normally. Crawling underneath, I could not spin the front driveshaft, however the truck behalved as though it was in 2WD.
I placed the thing into 4H and I got some additional noise from the T-case and making a turn on asphalt almost locked the truck up, it was bindf=ing so tightly. Shifting again into 2H immediately alleviated the binding condition, but the front shaft would not spin.
Now here's the kicker. If you can remember back, I had developed a problem in the front axle after I installed the 4.56 gears. John just happened to have a customer's takeout from a recent 4.56 build in his Chevy 2500 truck. The owner didn't like the steep gears and returned to stock. I purchased that axle, changed the oil, and tossed it in. So, what if someone installed an LS differential in that axle and we never knew?
Now, is there an aftermarket LS diff for the 9.25 AAM/GM front axle?
If not, then I'm fine. If they did, then 50/50 I have one. Assuming it doesn't exist, and I don't have it, the front axle controller must have failed, or the circuit is not working. It is not throwing any codes at the moment.
a 9.5 semi float GM rear diff can be made to fit in the front IFS 9.25 as they are the same ring gear center diameter bolt pattern and spline count... if the tires spin in the same direction when you jack up you have an LSD. but i'm more concerned about gear ratio accuracy at this point. do you have a 4 post you can get it up on and run in 4wd in the air and check tire rotations?
Post by: EL TATE on July 19, 2022, 12:41:34 PM
Post by: JR on July 19, 2022, 12:48:14 PM
Post by: EL TATE on July 19, 2022, 02:13:58 PM
Is this manual or all actuators? One on the axle is electric for sure. But maybe one of the 2 in the Tcase is massed up?
electric shift 246g
Post by: Flyin6 on July 19, 2022, 04:38:51 PM
10-4. keep me updated. pretty sure i sold you that t case. the clutches can be extremely tight. i'll ask tech about the front driveshaft not spinning in 2wd thoughOK
Post by: Flyin6 on July 19, 2022, 04:39:21 PM
YesIs this manual or all actuators? One on the axle is electric for sure. But maybe one of the 2 in the Tcase is massed up?
electric shift 246g
Post by: KensAuto on July 20, 2022, 12:30:22 AM
Not sure why it's still considered a 4 wheel abs system.
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on July 20, 2022, 07:07:56 AM
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 20, 2022, 08:52:59 AM
Don, your chebby doesn't have abs sensors in the rear. It just has a sensor on the back of the transfer case.Really???
Not sure why it's still considered a 4 wheel abs system.
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This is one of the problems with stretching a project over years...You can't remember everything you did or encountered
Post by: Flyin6 on July 20, 2022, 11:04:09 AM
Then the brake light being on could be the ABS motor itsself (common) or parking brake switch?I am fairly certain that the Anti-lock brake light automatically triggers the brake light illumination as well.
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So, with what Ken just said, it sounds like I have a failing or failed Anti-lock brake module.
So, Ken here's a question. Could the anti-lock brake motor assembly just have air in it? All this happened subsequent to me installing Shawn's 14-bolt axle. I disconnected the brake lines (Obviously) and later bled the system.
1. Could air have traveled up into the anti-skid module and
2. Is Shawn the cause of all this?
Post by: Sammconn on July 20, 2022, 06:35:12 PM
Go to the anti stop module.
Under the drivers seat essentially.
There will be a power connection.
If it has power the module has failed.
Then you just ignore the lights. Lol.
I probably will steal the one from my spare truck.
I may dissect the broken one as well.
There is a relay and transistor inside and one of them generally is the culprit.
Post by: dave945 on July 20, 2022, 07:29:41 PM
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 20, 2022, 09:50:38 PM
Is that what that ABS light is on the dash of the van? I thought it was telling me the kids were all ready to go: All Buckles Secure. Huh, learn something new every day.Doesn't sound like you've learned much at all on the day the teacher discussed anti-lock brakes!
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;-)
Post by: KensAuto on July 20, 2022, 11:03:15 PM
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Post by: JR on July 20, 2022, 11:08:38 PM
Post by: KensAuto on July 20, 2022, 11:19:10 PM
I think you have a Tcase issue.
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Post by: Sammconn on July 21, 2022, 09:35:14 AM
I wouldn't jump to conclusions until you get the codes.Agreed.
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I had codes saying anti stop brake module.
Post by: Flyin6 on July 21, 2022, 09:37:47 AM
I wouldn't jump to conclusions until you get the codes.I'm not reading any codes Ken. My not-so-advanced code reader is not all that advanced, not like those things you real mechanics have that can tell you how much the occupant weighs in the driver's seat, last thursday!
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Post by: JR on July 21, 2022, 11:49:53 AM
Those would all tie to possibly something mech in the tcase.
Post by: EL TATE on July 21, 2022, 05:03:57 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on July 21, 2022, 05:12:18 PM
The unit i sent you had a shift motor on it. could very well be the issue. but i would still like an up in the air w/ all 4 wheels off the ground test. 2wd/4wd check driveline free spin, and verify front wheels spin in opposite direction not same.I still have to check out the front axle before we go down that road. I'll check it this afternoon.
Post by: Flyin6 on July 21, 2022, 08:04:36 PM
I disconnected the front drive shaft. Those front U-bolt strap bolts were really on there tight. While I was cranking on the wrench I turned the driveshaft, but like it was in gear and I was pulling through the clutch.
I disconnected the driveshaft and the front axle freewheels with ease.
The front shaft feels like it is locked, but I can turn it if I poke a long screwdriver through the open end and pull like heck.
Next, I had Chris turn on the key and then select 4H. I could hear and feel the motor on the front axle and on the transfer case running for a short time. I had him shift back into 2H and same-same. I could both hear and feel both motors running for a moment.
So it does seem to be the front case...What's my issue?
Post by: Bigdave_185 on July 21, 2022, 08:50:46 PM
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Post by: KensAuto on July 22, 2022, 12:45:40 AM
The unit i sent you had a shift motor on it. could very well be the issue. but i would still like an up in the air w/ all 4 wheels off the ground test. 2wd/4wd check driveline free spin, and verify front wheels spin in opposite direction not same.I didn't remember you supplying the tcase. I thought he rebuilt it for some reason.
JR, a scanner can test the encoder motor.
It can also be used to compare the vss with the front wheel speed sensors while running on stands in 4wd or down the road.
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 22, 2022, 08:55:46 AM
Yes, Tate sent me a reman case which was swapped out for my original case. Never did anything to the tate-case except bolt it up and add fluid. I thought it was working perfectly.The unit i sent you had a shift motor on it. could very well be the issue. but i would still like an up in the air w/ all 4 wheels off the ground test. 2wd/4wd check driveline free spin, and verify front wheels spin in opposite direction not same.I didn't remember you supplying the tcase. I thought he rebuilt it for some reason.
JR, a scanner can test the encoder motor.
It can also be used to compare the vss with the front wheel speed sensors while running on stands in 4wd or down the road.
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But now thinking the clutch inside is dragging some, I think some of the poor mileage can be attributed to that. I am now concerned that I may have cooked this case too, as it may have been turning in some sort of 4WD all along. Did that cause excessive wear to the clutch?
Raises another question. That being is it actually "In" 4WD and the stiff resistance I feel trying to turn the driveshaft is actually the clutch slipping. Should that be the case, then this newer T-case is in need of a new clutch.
I think I'll drain the fluid and inspect, subject to Tate's input here.
Post by: stlaser on July 22, 2022, 10:23:25 AM
Post by: EL TATE on July 22, 2022, 11:24:11 AM
If in 2wd the front disconnect is locked, then they need to fix the disconnect motor.
Yes, depressing the plunger by hand / long screw driver is stiff.
As far as the front drive shaft not turning easy in 2wd, yes, they can scrub the clutch pack to break them in faster by doing the figure8’s. but if the front disconnect actuator is frozen in the locked position, that would be why it bucks.
They intentionally build the t cases w/ a tight clutch. you can do some tight, 4wd figure 8's in a parking lot to speed up clutch wear, but it IS intentional and should not be affecting fuel mileage. if your actuator is stuck and the front end is running all the time that would definitely affect mileage. all 4 wheels in the air, 2wd nothing should move up front. if you spin one tire by hand and the other moves in 2wd, your actuator is engaged.
Post by: Flyin6 on July 22, 2022, 12:50:38 PM
sounds like an overly preloaded clutch to me or a dry clutch. may be a simple solution to this but i may be warrantying this out for you too. hold tight, i'll let you know asap. from my lead tech:I guess I can jack it up, put it in neutral and 2H with the key off and manually turn the rear drive shaft...Or should I use engine power?
If in 2wd the front disconnect is locked, then they need to fix the disconnect motor.
Yes, depressing the plunger by hand / long screw driver is stiff.
As far as the front drive shaft not turning easy in 2wd, yes, they can scrub the clutch pack to break them in faster by doing the figure8’s. but if the front disconnect actuator is frozen in the locked position, that would be why it bucks.
They intentionally build the t cases w/ a tight clutch. you can do some tight, 4wd figure 8's in a parking lot to speed up clutch wear, but it IS intentional and should not be affecting fuel mileage. if your actuator is stuck and the front end is running all the time that would definitely affect mileage. all 4 wheels in the air, 2wd nothing should move up front. if you spin one tire by hand and the other moves in 2wd, your actuator is engaged.
Post by: stlaser on July 22, 2022, 02:16:14 PM
sounds like an overly preloaded clutch to me or a dry clutch. may be a simple solution to this but i may be warrantying this out for you too. hold tight, i'll let you know asap. from my lead tech:I guess I can jack it up, put it in neutral and 2H with the key off and manually turn the rear drive shaft...Or should I use engine power?
If in 2wd the front disconnect is locked, then they need to fix the disconnect motor.
Yes, depressing the plunger by hand / long screw driver is stiff.
As far as the front drive shaft not turning easy in 2wd, yes, they can scrub the clutch pack to break them in faster by doing the figure8’s. but if the front disconnect actuator is frozen in the locked position, that would be why it bucks.
They intentionally build the t cases w/ a tight clutch. you can do some tight, 4wd figure 8's in a parking lot to speed up clutch wear, but it IS intentional and should not be affecting fuel mileage. if your actuator is stuck and the front end is running all the time that would definitely affect mileage. all 4 wheels in the air, 2wd nothing should move up front. if you spin one tire by hand and the other moves in 2wd, your actuator is engaged.
Why not sit that pig up on 4 Jack stands and thoroughly go over it? Unless you own harbor freight stands……
Post by: EL TATE on July 22, 2022, 03:44:18 PM
sounds like an overly preloaded clutch to me or a dry clutch. may be a simple solution to this but i may be warrantying this out for you too. hold tight, i'll let you know asap. from my lead tech:I guess I can jack it up, put it in neutral and 2H with the key off and manually turn the rear drive shaft...Or should I use engine power?
If in 2wd the front disconnect is locked, then they need to fix the disconnect motor.
Yes, depressing the plunger by hand / long screw driver is stiff.
As far as the front drive shaft not turning easy in 2wd, yes, they can scrub the clutch pack to break them in faster by doing the figure8’s. but if the front disconnect actuator is frozen in the locked position, that would be why it bucks.
They intentionally build the t cases w/ a tight clutch. you can do some tight, 4wd figure 8's in a parking lot to speed up clutch wear, but it IS intentional and should not be affecting fuel mileage. if your actuator is stuck and the front end is running all the time that would definitely affect mileage. all 4 wheels in the air, 2wd nothing should move up front. if you spin one tire by hand and the other moves in 2wd, your actuator is engaged.
Why not sit that pig up on 4 Jack stands and thoroughly go over it? Unless you own harbor freight stands……
This. you can check the actuator just by having the front end off the ground with the driveline out of it. if both tires move when one is turned your actuator is engaged even in 2wd.
Post by: Flyin6 on July 22, 2022, 07:45:36 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on July 23, 2022, 09:37:56 AM
Post by: JR on July 23, 2022, 12:55:41 PM
Shouldn't it simply be 2WD, 4WDH and 4WDL? Actuators, one for 4WD and One for 4WDL.
Am I missing something?
Post by: Bigdave_185 on July 23, 2022, 01:22:30 PM
Unless AWD or something similar, why would it have clutches at all?Maybe it has that auto 4x4 stuff
Shouldn't it simply be 2WD, 4WDH and 4WDL? Actuators, one for 4WD and One for 4WDL.
Am I missing something?
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Post by: dave945 on July 23, 2022, 02:56:39 PM
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Post by: Flyin6 on July 23, 2022, 07:52:22 PM
Post by: JR on July 23, 2022, 08:51:17 PM
You need a stupid case, not one thats thinks for you,,,,,,,,
Post by: Flyin6 on July 24, 2022, 10:31:06 AM
I bet thats the issue. Read a little on it here; https://www.transmissiondigest.com/a-guide-to-the-nv-246-transfer-case/That was one excellent article. It explained the operation of the NV246 very well.
You need a stupid case, not one thats thinks for you,,,,,,,,
I no longer like the 246
I wonder if there is a simpler option for it that would fit that uses the same circuitry?
It seems that if there is a "regular" T-case with just 2H-N 4H/4l that would fit my needs mo better. I don't need nor desire any automatic crap thinking for me!
Post by: Flyin6 on July 24, 2022, 10:52:51 AM
Post by: stlaser on July 24, 2022, 04:12:51 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on August 16, 2022, 06:24:25 PM
I sent it to a detailer a couple of hours ago. He was convinced that the truck was going to come out amazing looking
We'll see...
Post by: Flyin6 on August 17, 2022, 04:25:04 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on August 17, 2022, 04:26:36 PM
The interior turned out even better!
Post by: Flyin6 on August 17, 2022, 04:31:42 PM
Not sure what that means, but in addition to soaping it down, he applied some iron remover that turns purple as it dissolves the rust embedded in the paint. He said he got a strong reaction from that from loads of iron. Next, he clay-bared (Most of) the body, then followed with an application of some ceramic hydro, water-scarin'-away product.
The interior carpets were shampoo and the leather was cleaned and treated with a leather conditioner. The engine is spotless.
A good baseline for the fall and into the winter, plus, it looks great again.
Post by: JR on August 17, 2022, 04:39:40 PM
Post by: EL TATE on August 22, 2022, 01:40:57 PM
Ya know, just realized, I never jacked the burb up to do the test...Darn. I hate when I can't remember things I forgot!!!
I sent it to a detailer a couple of hours ago. He was convinced that the truck was going to come out amazing looking
We'll see...
I'm 99% certain the clutch is your issue and you have no need to rebuild. we build them very tight for initial break in, and you can overcome this clutch situation with a few alternating figure 8's in 4wd in the parking lot. might even be worth a try before jacking it up.
Post by: Flyin6 on August 22, 2022, 08:21:30 PM
I was awaiting this exact feedbackYa know, just realized, I never jacked the burb up to do the test...Darn. I hate when I can't remember things I forgot!!!
I sent it to a detailer a couple of hours ago. He was convinced that the truck was going to come out amazing looking
We'll see...
I'm 99% certain the clutch is your issue and you have no need to rebuild. we build them very tight for initial break in, and you can overcome this clutch situation with a few alternating figure 8's in 4wd in the parking lot. might even be worth a try before jacking it up.
I'll do some figure 8's on asphalt and bind up the drivetrain some
Post by: Flyin6 on October 21, 2022, 04:59:22 PM
I am heavily leaning toward swapping in an early Cummins 12-valve motor and removing everything gasoline and electronic about this burb.
Although I have not completely decided to do this, I took a big step forward today:
Post by: Flyin6 on October 21, 2022, 05:01:06 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on October 21, 2022, 05:07:58 PM
The truck was known locally as a strong sled puller. You can see the traction bars, which, who knows, I may repurpose. I hear it also has a south bend performance clutch. I can see that the VE pump has been messed with. Just look at the top cap missing exposing the fuel screw. I'm betting it has been turned up.
Not that it matters, as I will go through it and likely just do a good rebuild with Marine 370 pistons and some studs along with the usual stuff. I'll also have the VE pump overhauled and set up for 400 ish HP.
Now right now, I am considering making my Suburban a 5-speed because I can simplify the installation and keep most of the stock components.
Post by: Flyin6 on October 21, 2022, 05:10:35 PM
Although I would prefer to retain the stock IFS setup, it would make a whole lot of sense to convert it to a SAS using this Dana 60 which is a passenger drop and makes the NP-205 work
I would only add crossover steering to the factory stuff and call it done
Post by: Flyin6 on October 21, 2022, 05:13:59 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on October 21, 2022, 05:16:38 PM
Post by: stlaser on October 21, 2022, 05:17:40 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on October 21, 2022, 05:19:31 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on October 21, 2022, 05:22:44 PM
Hmmmm, that thing will ride like a log wagon with leaf springs up front.Two thoughts:
first I had intended to use much longer Chevy leaf springs, right up until Swhobie said the width of the spring pads is all wrong for my chassis.
If that is the case, then I would be forced to use a three-link, and I just happen to have one I never used that I purchased for my D-max truck. That would be a no brainer along with some coil-overs, but I do not view the coil-over suspension as being as robust as simple leaf springs and shocks
Post by: stlaser on October 21, 2022, 06:26:24 PM
Hmmmm, that thing will ride like a log wagon with leaf springs up front.Two thoughts:
first I had intended to use much longer Chevy leaf springs, right up until Swhobie said the width of the spring pads is all wrong for my chassis.
If that is the case, then I would be forced to use a three-link, and I just happen to have one I never used that I purchased for my D-max truck. That would be a no brainer along with some coil-overs, but I do not view the coil-over suspension as being as robust as simple leaf springs and shocks
I say go 05+ Superduty and coils. Bigger brakes, better turning radius, huge ujoints and larger stub shafts plus they are easily converted to 8 on 6.5 to match rear and use wheels you have. It also makes your front a tad wider than rear again like it came from factory.
Sell the Dodge 60 for $1500+ and buy a Superduty 60 axle for sub $600 in the tuck I recon.
Post by: Bigdave_185 on October 21, 2022, 10:50:07 PM
(https://media3.giphy.com/media/SWoRKslHVtqEasqYCJ/giphy.gif)
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Post by: wyorunner on October 21, 2022, 11:11:40 PM
Do what Shawn said for front axle, wish I had done that, considered it when ours was in pieces. Our truck rides like a Conestoga wagon, beats ya to pieces. But we just deal, wife doesn’t care either. When we change springs we will do the longer leaves up front and back as well. Custom ones from Deaver or alcan.
Post by: Flyin6 on October 22, 2022, 03:59:30 PM
Just use the frame and some wood blocks for body mounts and swap the burb onto the frame. It will be fineYea, good thinking. Some good galvanized nails and I'd have it running in a few hours!
(https://media3.giphy.com/media/SWoRKslHVtqEasqYCJ/giphy.gif)
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Post by: Flyin6 on October 22, 2022, 04:14:50 PM
Super duty has a driver's side drop, right?Hmmmm, that thing will ride like a log wagon with leaf springs up front.Two thoughts:
first I had intended to use much longer Chevy leaf springs, right up until Swhobie said the width of the spring pads is all wrong for my chassis.
If that is the case, then I would be forced to use a three-link, and I just happen to have one I never used that I purchased for my D-max truck. That would be a no brainer along with some coil-overs, but I do not view the coil-over suspension as being as robust as simple leaf springs and shocks
I say go 05+ Superduty and coils. Bigger brakes, better turning radius, huge ujoints and larger stub shafts plus they are easily converted to 8 on 6.5 to match rear and use wheels you have. It also makes your front a tad wider than rear again like it came from factory.
Sell the Dodge 60 for $1500+ and buy a Superduty 60 axle for sub $600 in the tuck I recon.
The idea with the D60 would be to fit the stock dodge drivetrain.
Great suggestion, though, but not looking to SFA the Burb unless I have to. The ultimate solution would be to just swap in the 6BT VE motor and get all that running.
I appreciate the input.
Post by: Flyin6 on October 22, 2022, 04:22:58 PM
Buy a new pump from dieseltuff, keep the old one for a rainy day core. He doesn’t require a core for the new pump and has three options for fuel throughput. Our pig is running his Stage 1, and his 90over injectors, HVLP lift pump, and a turbo he has that is designed for towing.SD axle is driver's drop. So no need to go through the hassle of doing a SFA if I keep the 4L80E. And frankly, staying with the IFS would keep the excellent ride my burb has.
Do what Shawn said for front axle, wish I had done that, considered it when ours was in pieces. Our truck rides like a Conestoga wagon, beats ya to pieces. But we just deal, wife doesn’t care either. When we change springs we will do the longer leaves up front and back as well. Custom ones from Deaver or alcan.
Post by: JR on October 23, 2022, 01:09:52 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on October 24, 2022, 04:38:36 PM
:popcorn:I'll get back to ya in a day or so, time to get that always desirable and highly anticipated spinal surgery...
Post by: JR on October 24, 2022, 04:39:17 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on October 24, 2022, 04:42:15 PM
Sounds like fun"Fun" is a word
Not sure it applies...
;-)
Post by: Flyin6 on March 16, 2023, 04:15:47 PM
Its been awhile, Tate, but I finally got around to doing this.Ya know, just realized, I never jacked the burb up to do the test...Darn. I hate when I can't remember things I forgot!!!
I sent it to a detailer a couple of hours ago. He was convinced that the truck was going to come out amazing looking
We'll see...
I'm 99% certain the clutch is your issue and you have no need to rebuild. we build them very tight for initial break in, and you can overcome this clutch situation with a few alternating figure 8's in 4wd in the parking lot. might even be worth a try before jacking it up.
I did a half dozen figure-"8s" in a parking lot reversing on each completion of the turn. So, now what am I looking for, Being able to rotate the front driveshaft freely?
On another note, I have had the burb up for sale for a couple weeks now and with some offers, but I keep turning them down or sending the buyer home. One thing is that I cannot in good conscience sell it to someone who I feel is financially struggling.
The other thing is, I really like that truck. It is cool, I like driving it and it costs me a couple hundred a year in insurance and registration, $500 tops. Is it just a keeper?
Post by: JR on March 16, 2023, 04:29:10 PM
Thats about what my Burb runs here in Kali. Wife hates the burb, I have to much invested and want to do with it.
Just turned 250k on the LBZ.
Post by: Flyin6 on March 16, 2023, 04:45:58 PM
So both the burb and the Dmax are on the block?Yea, I have them both up, but every day I keep raising the price on the Burb. I think I want to keep it...
Thats about what my Burb runs here in Kali. Wife hates the burb, I have to much invested and want to do with it.
Just turned 250k on the LBZ.
You need to sell your D-max and buy mine. You know it, great truck, and 100K+ fewer miles
Post by: JR on March 16, 2023, 05:00:08 PM
Post by: dave945 on March 16, 2023, 06:35:53 PM
But its payed for.So is Don’s, you should straight up trade and then Don can give me your old one. Good deal all around. ;)
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Post by: JR on March 16, 2023, 07:30:38 PM
I see barn door burbs all the time.
Post by: Flyin6 on March 17, 2023, 10:25:35 AM
Holy crap, wow, I never thought of that!But its payed for.So is Don’s, you should straight up trade and then Don can give me your old one. Good deal all around. ;)
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Let's get this done!
Not
Post by: Flyin6 on March 17, 2023, 10:28:10 AM
Post by: EL TATE on March 17, 2023, 12:36:09 PM
Its been awhile, Tate, but I finally got around to doing this.Ya know, just realized, I never jacked the burb up to do the test...Darn. I hate when I can't remember things I forgot!!!
I sent it to a detailer a couple of hours ago. He was convinced that the truck was going to come out amazing looking
We'll see...
I'm 99% certain the clutch is your issue and you have no need to rebuild. we build them very tight for initial break in, and you can overcome this clutch situation with a few alternating figure 8's in 4wd in the parking lot. might even be worth a try before jacking it up.
I did a half dozen figure-"8s" in a parking lot reversing on each completion of the turn. So, now what am I looking for, Being able to rotate the front driveshaft freely?
On another note, I have had the burb up for sale for a couple weeks now and with some offers, but I keep turning them down or sending the buyer home. One thing is that I cannot in good conscience sell it to someone who I feel is financially struggling.
The other thing is, I really like that truck. It is cool, I like driving it and it costs me a couple hundred a year in insurance and registration, $500 tops. Is it just a keeper?
following up with Tech and will get back to you on it shortly. don't want to leave any stones unturned so i sent him our whole conversation from the jumping off point for his perspective.
Post by: EL TATE on March 17, 2023, 01:51:16 PM
"An on demand style tcase has active clutches connecting the front driveshaft to the transfercase. Even in 2wd, there is still residual friction from the clutch surfaces sliding causing felt drag on the drive shaft . think of it like the clutches in a limited slip- they allow for a controlled amount of power transfer at any given time.
When engaging 4wd manually, this clamps down on said clutch pack with additional force , this exponentially increases break away torque .
In an non on demand case its all gear driven – its either connected or not. That is why on a different style case it can be turned by hand in 2wd. This unit is on demand and the clutches are brand new and will break in over time."
Post by: Flyin6 on March 17, 2023, 02:35:15 PM
Good news.I love that answer just I like how we can get expert advice on drivetrain issues from Randy's with the click of a mouse button. I just lost several points on my blood pressure monitor!
"An on demand style tcase has active clutches connecting the front driveshaft to the transfercase. Even in 2wd, there is still residual friction from the clutch surfaces sliding causing felt drag on the drive shaft . think of it like the clutches in a limited slip- they allow for a controlled amount of power transfer at any given time.
When engaging 4wd manually, this clamps down on said clutch pack with additional force , this exponentially increases break away torque .
In an non on demand case its all gear driven – its either connected or not. That is why on a different style case it can be turned by hand in 2wd. This unit is on demand and the clutches are brand new and will break in over time."
Cool!
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 18, 2023, 07:53:44 PM
You can get a diesel in these new ones too…. Jus sayin
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 18, 2023, 08:44:02 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230318/9f4f95d5ae2ce07c8f2ed1ea92d51f8a.jpg)Or the super charged 6.2 I think with 600+ Hp for 24?
You can get a diesel in these new ones too…. Jus sayin
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Post by: Flyin6 on March 18, 2023, 08:55:51 PM
If money were not a question, I still wouldn't look at those.
The one abiding reason I like mine is that I built it myself. It's customized for just me, and it will still do a lot more work than any of this new 1/5 ton stuff...
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 19, 2023, 09:53:26 AM
We need something completely old school in the family. Even if its just an old 4cly Jeep gasser with a spare coil and points in a 50 cal ammo can for spares.
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Post by: Flyin6 on March 19, 2023, 05:58:14 PM
Well with the diesel and without all the bells and whistles you can get one for about what you paid for your RAM. I get the “build it yourself” sentiment. One reason I’m so attached to the Bus. But remember, even the 2001 has a computer subject to EMP in it.Ya, me too
We need something completely old school in the family. Even if its just an old 4cly Jeep gasser with a spare coil and points in a 50 cal ammo can for spares.
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While I was chatting with a prospective buyer for the thing and I just couldn't get there, I was thinking, now if that thing had a torquey big block with a carb and a points distributor on the shelf, I could make hay with it should the pooper chute open up. Take an extra 4l80E controller and wrap it up in tin foil and store it...
I don't think that truck is going anywhere anytime soon, and the thought of having something that would run no matter what has always intrigued me.
Post by: JR on March 19, 2023, 06:11:44 PM
Post by: halsey on March 19, 2023, 08:15:10 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on March 19, 2023, 08:42:56 PM
or... just drive these simple old trucksI'm not going there
We all know what happens when I get ahold of something like that...
Post by: JR on March 19, 2023, 09:07:54 PM
What I like about my burb. Does use a controller for the trans, but they are less than $50 so will "store" 1 or 2.
Post by: Flyin6 on May 03, 2023, 09:02:42 PM
And this is strange. I towed the Army trailer with it + cargo + 100 gal of diesel. Then i checked the mileage
It got 11.8
That's odd because it was getting 10.5-11.0 with no load prior to this. It just seems to be running really good.
Driving down there one day I was behind a tractor doing like 25. The tractor pulled off and I stood on it a bit too hard and it squealed the tires all the way until it upshifted to third! A tad more throttle and I would have lit them up like an old big block Chevelle.
Now why did this thing decide to just start running better???
Post by: JR on May 03, 2023, 09:15:54 PM
Post by: Nate on May 03, 2023, 09:24:26 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on May 04, 2023, 10:38:04 AM
I'm afraid after trying to sell it, I have accepted, it is a keeper. I have invested a lot of actual money into it, and I could barely hope to recoup .20 cents on the dollar. Therefore, it stays with me.
And
I like the thing. I actually drive it more than the Jeep
It has a nostalgic feel about it. It is likely one of the best condition Suburban of that vintage left in the country. It is fun, has that great V* rumble, and has a lot of get-up-n-go that all combine to make it fun.
Nope, I think I'll keep it, and actually plan to put a new leather interior in it, fix the pesky anti-lock brake light, and the fuel gauge. I think the sending unit in the aux tank has failed, so I'll pull that 6-gallon tank and bolt in a 26-gallon tank with another sensor and see if I can double my range and get a fuel gauge that works.
I use it to pile the dogs into and drive to the farm, like every day for a week straight, and after pulling that trailer, I can say, that a supercharged 6.0 can definitely pull with little effort. I could accelerate to 70 uphill from the start with ease. I guess I am really, now, just discovering this truck's capabilities.
Finally, I need a project outlet vehicle. My Jeep is for simple bolt-ons, and I AM NOT going to do anything major to the Ram. But should someone drop a 540 BB Chevy on my doorstep, well, I think I'd find a way to slip it in between the fender wells.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 04, 2023, 09:48:54 PM
https://www.gmpartswarehouse.com/oem-parts/gm-zz632-1000-deluxe-big-block-crate-engine-19432060?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZyf90dP4LVxt7GzWKq8bA2CoxM9fFxQsyCSJ3LxJvbaClI5IV73uQQaAp0QEALw_wcB
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Post by: Flyin6 on May 04, 2023, 09:57:27 PM
Poof. Think biggerAlmost as much as my first house + 7.5 acres
https://www.gmpartswarehouse.com/oem-parts/gm-zz632-1000-deluxe-big-block-crate-engine-19432060?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZyf90dP4LVxt7GzWKq8bA2CoxM9fFxQsyCSJ3LxJvbaClI5IV73uQQaAp0QEALw_wcB
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Post by: Sammconn on May 05, 2023, 08:04:29 AM
Finally, I need a project outlet vehicle. My Jeep is for simple bolt-ons, and I AM NOT going to do anything major to the Ram. But should someone drop a 540 BB Chevy on my doorstep, well, I think I'd find a way to slip it in between the fender wells.
Well.
Gonna get fired now too…
That brown truck will drop any package in your driveway.
Just sayin’.
I was more along the 596 lines but Charles does like to go big.
Texas thing I suppose.
:beercheers:
Post by: Bigdave_185 on May 05, 2023, 08:42:56 AM
Now now, Charles likes to go big but still hasn’t done the motor in the red classic yet. If that’s sayin anything lol
Finally, I need a project outlet vehicle. My Jeep is for simple bolt-ons, and I AM NOT going to do anything major to the Ram. But should someone drop a 540 BB Chevy on my doorstep, well, I think I'd find a way to slip it in between the fender wells.
Well.
Gonna get fired now too…
That brown truck will drop any package in your driveway.
Just sayin’.
I was more along the 596 lines but Charles does like to go big.
Texas thing I suppose.
:beercheers:
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Post by: Flyin6 on May 05, 2023, 10:24:33 AM
Callin a man out or "Just gonna leave this here" when you haven't done it yourself, is pure peanut gallery stuff...
;-)
Post by: JR on May 05, 2023, 12:56:44 PM
Post by: Nate on May 05, 2023, 01:19:42 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 06, 2023, 08:19:11 AM
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Post by: Sammconn on May 06, 2023, 08:49:28 AM
And the spare LB7 block I have is to replace the one I have that only has 228,000 so I still have time.Definitely have time. Lol
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Post by: Flyin6 on October 20, 2023, 02:52:38 PM
I parked the thing nearly all summer and took the insurance off of it.
I even planned to sell it and placed it up for sale. I had a few interested people, but in the end, it did not command my asking price.
So, one day, I tossed a battery charger on it
That led to my pressure-washing it
Had to toss on some ceramic wax afterward.
With the outside looking great again, I went after and detailed the interior.
Started liking it again so I reinsured it and drove it a little. I still had that pesky Anti-Lock brake caution light along with that big glaring red "BRAKE" message.
That led me to take it to the local Cadillac store where an electrical wizard works. He couldn't find anything wrong with the Anti-Lock Brake system other than the light being illuminated! Further, I was having HVAC issues. On one occasion last spring when it was raining the thing refused to defrost and no AC. Well, during the Caddy visit, all that worked as advertised too!
Was all that due to an improperly charged battery?
So, I think I'll use it over the winter. It is weatherproofed better than the USS Nimitz with several layers of 3M cavity wax so it should stand up to the salt we get. Next up, I am scheduled with a tuner in December. It is for sure running rich (I smell gas fumes when it is running) and will not reliably idle sometimes. I think I'll sort all that out and just keep driving this cool old classic 2500 Suburban.
Post by: Flyin6 on November 15, 2023, 10:04:44 PM
This truck is just running and driving great. I still have a tuning appointment for 1 Dec to have the tune leaned out a bit. I get gas fumes while driving it, especially when cold idling. I remember Nick saying he added a margin of safety in there to keep me from liquifying the pistons. That little bit extra is probably the culprit of the awful fuel mileage and the raw gas fume smell.
I continue to rely on it to drive the 120 miles to/from the farm and to tow my dump trailer with whatever I care to put in it. This truck really does a good job towing.