Author Topic: Ball Joint recommendations (Read 2377 times)

cj7ox · « **on:** March 25, 2020, 12:03:09 PM »

So, at about 330k miles, the ball joints on my 2006 Ram 3500 (4WD, SRW) are in need of replacement. I'm trying to figure out what the best route, parts wise, is for the next 300k. I've looked at MOOG, but understand there may be some quality issues recently. So, I've decided to leverage the collective wisdom of this group. What say you?

stlaser · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2020, 01:37:00 PM »

Hit up Phil or look at his Dodge Cummins build thread.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2020, 09:04:19 PM »

I use Moog in my 2500 Chevy, but, I concur with Shawn's recommendation

Dodges seem to be particuliar in what they like...

KensAuto · « **Reply #3 on:** March 26, 2020, 12:22:26 AM »

I've switched from Moog to Mevotech and so far so good.
Now if you wanna go all in, there's the guys that make extreme duty joints specifically for Rams, but a little pricey.
...I think the ones Shawn's referring to that Phil uses.

cj7ox · « **Reply #4 on:** March 26, 2020, 11:46:43 AM »

Yeah, I was leaning toward Moog. It's just hard to filter out the keyboard warriors who find something wrong with everything, and get good information. I'd like to stay with a US company if possible, but want these to last. I came across the rebuildable HD set by Dynatrac, but they're pretty pricey. I'll see if I can find what Phil used in his build.

cj7ox · « **Reply #5 on:** March 27, 2020, 10:40:23 AM »

Found a link in one of Phil's posts that compares several brands of ball joint replacements. It was pretty eye opening. Thanks! Now, to do a little more deciding...

cj7ox · « **Reply #6 on:** April 06, 2020, 04:12:16 PM »

So, I decided to go with ball joints from Carli's Suspension. They're a little more than I anticipated spending, but I'm impressed by the design and especially how they handle the life time warranty. My intention is to not have to do this again while I own the truck. Since I've got to take everything apart to get to ball joints, I'm also going to do the free spin hub replacements from El Tate's folks and get rid of the unit bearings. If I can remember, I'll attempt to do my fist ever "instal thread". LOL!

wilsonphil · « **Reply #7 on:** April 06, 2020, 07:42:07 PM »

http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=3501.msg81163#msg81163

This was the thread I did on ball joint replace the and the free spin kit. Things you should be aware of the kit dose not come with the u-joints And the hub will stick out past the wheel so be aware of that if you are off road and in the rocks a lot, I doubt you will see any MPG but 100% the truck will be smoother going down the road, also you loose shift on the fly if the hubs are not locked.

wilsonphil · « **Reply #8 on:** April 06, 2020, 07:46:13 PM »

I used these units but have not heard anything bad about Carli either

https://emfballjoints.com/

If your truck has been in the salt it will be very fun to get apart even if it wasn’t it might still be challenging let me know if you have questions.

cj7ox · « **Reply #9 on:** April 06, 2020, 08:35:55 PM »

Yeah, I knew about the u-joints for the front axle. Passenger side needed to be replaced anyway, so I’ve got them on the way as well. I also new about the hubs sticking out a bit, and the shift on the fly for 4wd high. Thanks for the tips, though.

cj7ox · « **Reply #10 on:** April 13, 2020, 11:36:30 AM »

So, started the "build". Completed the passenger side yesterday. The free spin kit from El Tate is very nice, with pretty good instructions. I was able to figure it out without much issue, and I'm not even to shade tree mechanic classification. I wish the instructions had pictures of the SRW set-up, versus the DRW. That said, the only issues we have had so far were getting the ball joints out. That was a royal PIA! The axle u-joints sucked, but there shouldn't be any more struggle with that since we purchased a shop press. I'll try to remember to take some pictures today. I know, I know, if there are no pics, it didn't happen! LOL! I just don't think about that while I'm elbow deep in grease, break dust, and grime typically. More of a focus on getting the job finished.

Nate · « **Reply #11 on:** April 13, 2020, 02:23:51 PM »

hopefully you have your NCO assisting you......

Nate · « **Reply #12 on:** April 13, 2020, 02:24:00 PM »

Flyin6 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 13, 2020, 07:08:04 PM »

Quote from: cj7ox on April 13, 2020, 11:36:30 AM

So, started the "build". Completed the passenger side yesterday. The free spin kit from El Tate is very nice, with pretty good instructions. I was able to figure it out without much issue, and I'm not even to shade tree mechanic classification. I wish the instructions had pictures of the SRW set-up, versus the DRW. That said, the only issues we have had so far were getting the ball joints out. That was a royal PIA! The axle u-joints sucked, but there shouldn't be any more struggle with that since we purchased a shop press. I'll try to remember to take some pictures today. I know, I know, if there are no pics, it didn't happen! LOL! I just don't think about that while I'm elbow deep in grease, break dust, and grime typically. More of a focus on getting the job finished.

You know the rules
1. Pics or it didn't happen
2. Broken or ill fitting parts = Bonus points
3. Injuries sustained can go either way sympathy/harassment ;-)

cj7ox · « **Reply #14 on:** April 14, 2020, 12:13:31 PM »

Quote from: Nate on April 13, 2020, 02:23:51 PM

hopefully you have your NCO assisting you......

Nate, I do! I'm doing all this at the home of a guy I work with. He's a retired NCO (Bradley Master Gunner) who works as a contractor in my directorate at Benning. As a geo-bachelor, I needed a place to do the work, and he volunteered. Jon has been helping me figure things out when I am questioning myself, but I'm doing the majority of the work. We got the last spindle/hub installed last night. This afternoon we'll get the free spin guts installed in that hub, then reinstall rotor/caliper, and tie rods/drag link. When that is complete, it should drive like it is new, and hopefully I won't have to mess with this for another 300k miles.

cj7ox · « **Reply #15 on:** April 14, 2020, 12:16:13 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on April 13, 2020, 07:08:04 PM

You know the rules
1. Pics or it didn't happen
2. Broken or ill fitting parts = Bonus points
3. Injuries sustained can go either way sympathy/harassment ;-)

1. LOL! I'll try to remember...
2. Only mangled a HF press so far. All parts are fitting as they're supposed to.
3. Aside from small cuts, no injuries!

Nate · « **Reply #16 on:** April 14, 2020, 12:50:15 PM »

Quote from: cj7ox on April 14, 2020, 12:13:31 PM

Quote from: Nate on April 13, 2020, 02:23:51 PM
hopefully you have your NCO assisting you......

Nate, I do! I'm doing all this at the home of a guy I work with. He's a retired NCO (Bradley Master Gunner) who works as a contractor in my directorate at Benning. As a geo-bachelor, I needed a place to do the work, and he volunteered. Jon has been helping me figure things out when I am questioning myself, but I'm doing the majority of the work. We got the last spindle/hub installed last night. This afternoon we'll get the free spin guts installed in that hub, then reinstall rotor/caliper, and tie rods/drag link. When that is complete, it should drive like it is new, and hopefully I won't have to mess with this for another 300k miles.

cj7ox · « **Reply #17 on:** April 15, 2020, 11:07:09 AM »

So, here are some pics. This is where we started from yesterday afternoon. The spindles and hub outer were completed the night before.

cj7ox · « **Reply #18 on:** April 15, 2020, 11:12:26 AM »

I installed the free-spin internals, and got the hub buttoned up. Then, the rotor and brake went back on. After that, we beat out the old steering linkage as a single piece so we could take measurements. Assembled all new linkage (we the exception of the tie rod adjuster, which NAPA didn't have in stock) on the ground, then hung it as a single piece. Our measurements must have been pretty good, as it tracks straight as an arrow. The steering wheel is a little cocked, but it'll get fixed when I take it in for an alignment tomorrow. (Pic is a little dark, but if you look hard enough you'll see the shiny)

cj7ox · « **Reply #19 on:** April 15, 2020, 11:15:04 AM »

Here are pics of the finished product.

cj7ox · « **Reply #20 on:** April 15, 2020, 11:17:18 AM »

As you can see, we put the truck on its lid to better access the steering linkage. LOL!

Not sure why the pic is showing upside down in the post, when you click on it it's oriented properly. Can one of you smart mods fix it? I need an NCO to hook me up!

Nate · « **Reply #21 on:** April 15, 2020, 11:59:33 AM »

EL TATE · « **Reply #22 on:** April 15, 2020, 12:43:51 PM »

Quote from: cj7ox on April 15, 2020, 11:15:04 AM

Here are pics of the finished product.

lookin' good there Sean, nice work!

wilsonphil · « **Reply #23 on:** April 15, 2020, 01:42:11 PM »

Quote from: cj7ox on April 15, 2020, 11:12:26 AM

I installed the free-spin internals, and got the hub buttoned up. Then, the rotor and brake went back on. After that, we beat out the old steering linkage as a single piece so we could take measurements. Assembled all new linkage (we the exception of the tie rod adjuster, which NAPA didn't have in stock) on the ground, then hung it as a single piece. Our measurements must have been pretty good, as it tracks straight as an arrow. The steering wheel is a little cocked, but it'll get fixed when I take it in for an alignment tomorrow. (Pic is a little dark, but if you look hard enough you'll see the shiny)

You didn’t do the Mopar upgrade for all the steering parts

cj7ox · « **Reply #24 on:** April 15, 2020, 02:49:31 PM »

Quote from: wilsonphil on April 15, 2020, 01:42:11 PM

You didn’t do the Mopar upgrade for all the steering parts

If you are talking about the steering box brace, no. I've not had any issue with that, so didn't think it necessary.

Quote from: EL TATE on April 15, 2020, 12:43:51 PM

lookin' good there Sean, nice work!

Thanks, Tate! You were instrumental in getting me the kit.

Quote from: Nate on April 15, 2020, 11:59:33 AM

Nate, thanks for the help with the pic orientation. Us ossifers don't do too well outside of power point! LOL!

Nate · « **Reply #25 on:** April 15, 2020, 03:12:12 PM »

wilsonphil · « **Reply #26 on:** April 15, 2020, 07:13:13 PM »

Dodge upgraded the steering in 2009 it’s a bolt in kit for the earlier trucks a lot less work and much beefier. I have never needed the brace either and dodge also went with a larger output shaft on the later boxes and I think that cured the box problem.

cj7ox · « **Reply #27 on:** April 15, 2020, 08:44:41 PM »

Quote from: wilsonphil on April 15, 2020, 07:13:13 PM

Dodge upgraded the steering in 2009 it’s a bolt in kit for the earlier trucks a lot less work and much beefier. I have never needed the brace either and dodge also went with a larger output shaft on the later boxes and I think that cured the box problem.

I remember there was a recall for steering components, but when I took mine in it wasn’t necessary. What I replaced was original to the truck, and had 330k miles on it. The ends were worn, so it was time to replace it all since 2 of the 4 ends are built in to the linkage.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 15, 2020, 09:04:16 PM »

You have 330K on that truck!

Looks pretty clean/unbeaten/stock/good for that many miles

cj7ox · « **Reply #29 on:** April 16, 2020, 10:46:42 AM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on April 15, 2020, 09:04:16 PM

You have 330K on that truck!

Looks pretty clean/unbeaten/stock/good for that many miles

Yeah, there are a couple of dings, but nothing major. All I've done to it (aside from topics in this post) is replace the clutch/flywheel (at 200k) and an injection line twice. The injection line (No. 4) had some bad castings, and would spring a leak. On the clutch, one of the transverse springs broke and got cockeyed, scoring the 2 piece factory flywheel and knocking it out of balance. Since 2006, I've spent right at $4k in mechanical parts replacement/repair. You can't beat a Cummins.

wilsonphil · « **Reply #30 on:** April 17, 2020, 10:54:13 PM »

https://www.ebay.com/itm/03-12-Ram-2500-3500-STEERING-LINKAGE-PITMAN-ARM-DRAG-LINK-DAMPER-UPGRADE-MOPAR/201233604354

This is what I was talking about, you can also get it without the pitman arm and stabilizer for about half the price

cj7ox · « **Reply #31 on:** April 20, 2020, 11:29:35 AM »

Quote from: wilsonphil on April 17, 2020, 10:54:13 PM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/03-12-Ram-2500-3500-STEERING-LINKAGE-PITMAN-ARM-DRAG-LINK-DAMPER-UPGRADE-MOPAR/201233604354

This is what I was talking about, you can also get it without the pitman arm and stabilizer for about half the price

I replaced everything in that kit except the pitman arm, and steering damper, as they were still in good shape. Doing it piecemeal, it came in at a much lesser cost than the kit on ebay, around $200 from NAPA.