Post by: Bear9350 on April 05, 2017, 01:33:02 PM
The trailer I purchased is not up to that challenge. It is obviously a home-made trailer. The axles are re-purposed mobile home axles, coupler is not heavy enough, overall build quality of the trailer is not great and some areas would need re-enforcing. I had previously purchased a set of take-off camper axles rated for 4500 lbs each I think. The plan was to install these under the current trailer and fix it up some to make it work. The more I evaluated the trailer, the hours of work and amount of material required the less ideal the situation became. Coupled with the fact even after re-working the trailer it would still have some drawbacks I decided to change route.
I will re-use the camper axles I picked up and build a new trailer around them. I have modeled everything up in CAD beforehand to get the most of my materials and reduce the amount of had scratching time during the build. The plan is to build a 16 ft equipment type trailer with a 30" dovetail. The main frame and tongue will be 5" channel with 3" channel cross-members on 19.2" centers. 19.2" centers comes out on 8'.
Post by: Bear9350 on April 05, 2017, 01:38:03 PM
65' of 5" channel for main frame and tongue
100' of 3" channel for cross members
45' of 2" x 3/16" angle for tying down decking and other various things
40' of 2" x 1/4" angle for ramp material
20' of 2-1/2" angle to create ramp storage
20' of 2-1/2" x 1/4" flat for a rub rail
8' of 6" x 1/4" flat for a rear bumper
Total for steel should be under $600.
They have some of this coming in on a truck tomorrow so I should be able to pick it up Friday.
I also ordered some other components.
New axle hanging brackets and supporting hardware
Adjustable 2-5/16" coupler
3" channel for attaching coupler
5,000 lb jack
Brake lights
Clearance lights
Steel stake pockets
New tires, valve stems and lug nuts
All these material will start showing up the end of this week through the beginning of next week.
I had picked up 4 older 15" wheels earlier for cheap that I plan to sandblast and paint to mount the new tires on.
Decking material will be picked up when the trailer is ready for it to be installed.
All in I expect to be right about $1500 for materials for the build including axles, wheels, tires and decking.
Post by: Nate on April 05, 2017, 02:01:18 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 05, 2017, 02:19:27 PM
why 15" instead of 16"...? if I remember correctly, there is only one manufacture that makes 15" load range E tires and they want an arm and a leg for 1?
Correct, real trailer don't run 15" tires.....
Post by: Bear9350 on April 05, 2017, 02:22:08 PM
Plenty of the bigger trailer manufacturers are specing 15" wheels with there 10,000 lb trailers.
Post by: Sammconn on April 05, 2017, 03:00:02 PM
I found several options in E rating when I upgraded/replaced my old camper.
I think when you jump to the 5-6000 pound axles you run into the weight limits on 15" wheels.
Post by: Nate on April 05, 2017, 04:15:31 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 05, 2017, 04:21:42 PM
guess things have come along a bit since I last owned a trailer with 15" tires
Me too apparently, wheeling buddy of mine had a tri axle with 15's & if that trailer breathed on a curb he was swapping tires. I think we once changed 3 tires on a 5 hour trip once.
Post by: Bob Smith on April 05, 2017, 07:30:57 PM
Post by: KensAuto on April 06, 2017, 06:29:09 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 07, 2017, 07:51:06 AM
5k jack seems a little light..I would go with at least an 8k. If you ever have to unload from your truck with something heavy on the trailer, and you haven't kept the screw oiled (like most people), you'll apreciate it. Just my opinion bud.
I guess my reasoning for only needing a 5k was I would likely never have more than 2k and likely closer to 1k of tongue weight if loaded properly.
Post by: Bear9350 on April 07, 2017, 08:01:01 AM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/Parts%201_zpswxxzvdqp.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/Parts%201_zpswxxzvdqp.jpg.html)
The coupler is a 14K Curt. Looks like it is built strong enough. My only complaint and I expected this based on the reviews is how it fits loosely inside the channel. I am hoping I can fit a couple washers in that gap to tighten it up nicely. I will have to run to the hardware store and a grab a handful. If they fit I will tack the washers right on to the coupler so they stay in place and repaint. I will probably also buy a couple shorter bolts. The ones it shipped with are an inch longer then they need to be. Wouldn't be an issue with a normal nut but they also sent a mechanical style lock nut and I don't want an extra inch of thread to wrench off and on again if I want to adjust height.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/Slop_zpse6lhypit.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/Slop_zpse6lhypit.jpg.html)
I also started to clean the wheels up last night. Here is what they looked like before I started. Some surface rust on them but still solid wheels.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/Dirty_zpsvfjtpnsc.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/Dirty_zpsvfjtpnsc.jpg.html)
After spending a little time with the sandblaster. I just have a small sandblaster for smaller projects but it works good for things like this and saves a lot of time and does a better job then a wire wheel.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/Clean_zpszaaz0our.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/Clean_zpszaaz0our.jpg.html)
And with a coat of primer on them. I just got the first 2 wheels done. Hoping to get to the other 2 tonight. The tires I ordered should show up today and I would like to get them mounted.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/Painted_zpsen5kc53x.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/Painted_zpsen5kc53x.jpg.html)
Hooked the old trailer up to the truck last night and drove it in to work today. Will be heading to pick up all my steel after work today.
Post by: Sammconn on April 07, 2017, 08:28:06 AM
That is a lot of gap in the hitch. Hope the washer is a solution.
Definitely be nice to have it tight.
Post by: Bear9350 on April 07, 2017, 08:39:18 AM
Looking good. Little wire wheel burn for chief...
That is a lot of gap in the hitch. Hope the washer is a solution.
Definitely be nice to have it tight.
I'm sure one will fit. Hoping I can get one on each side. I might need to do a little material removal to get two to slide in. I want to get a nice tight fit so I get a little clamp on it when I torque the bolts down.
Post by: Sammconn on April 07, 2017, 08:40:54 AM
Post by: stlaser on April 07, 2017, 09:05:15 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 07, 2017, 10:15:31 AM
And I agree. In this case I would prefer a little loose over to tight. But I also know the standard tolerances I would expect from the channel bend and that coupler weldment. I think a better fit should be possible without the chance of interference.
Post by: Bob Smith on April 07, 2017, 01:27:50 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 07, 2017, 01:38:27 PM
Do the wheels have a PSI rating stamped on them? "D" tires at 65lbs should be fine but if you upgrade to the E's at 80lbs PSI the wheels might object at some point if they aren't rated high enough. It is good however to have the extra weight reserve the E's will give you.
I looked after sand blasting them but couldn't see anything that resembled a weight rating. I did notice what I thought was a date code. I will take a look again when I blast the last 2.
Post by: Bear9350 on April 08, 2017, 08:18:15 AM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0143_zps0igyvjgj.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0143_zps0igyvjgj.jpg.html)
When I got home I had some more stuff waiting for me. The tires were stacked up outside.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0142_zpsazer9p6f.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0142_zpsazer9p6f.jpg.html)
And all my lights also arrived.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0141_zps60iph7zg.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0141_zps60iph7zg.jpg.html)
Not much else happening last night and this morning. Get ready for am Easter brunch at our place for my wife's side.
Post by: Bear9350 on April 10, 2017, 11:28:35 AM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0147_zpshfhylxqh.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0147_zpshfhylxqh.jpg.html)
After church I started cutting steel to length. For the most part everything is cut to length and ready to be assembled.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0148_zpsjedhlzf9.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0148_zpsjedhlzf9.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0149_zpsxagser28.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0149_zpsxagser28.jpg.html)
Should have some time tonight to start building the main frame rails up.
Post by: Bigdave_185 on April 10, 2017, 10:34:47 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Bear9350 on April 10, 2017, 10:55:15 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on April 10, 2017, 11:17:17 PM
It's not as high quality as some of the custom welding tables on here but it gets the job done. At one point in its life it had a nice oak veneer top. That was long ago charred off. You just got to make sure you lock the legs out square before you drop to much weight on it.Without some good cardboard for the welding surface, how are you ever gonna keep things straight?
;-)
Post by: JR on April 11, 2017, 02:49:29 AM
Wheels look good. What paint did you use?
Post by: Bear9350 on April 11, 2017, 07:20:54 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 11, 2017, 07:26:21 AM
First one mounted and up to pressure. I set pressure to 70 psi for now and will check them for leaks/ adjust later.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0151_zpso4l0fzdf.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0151_zpso4l0fzdf.jpg.html)
All 4 done and ready to go on the axle.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0152_zpsyv5j26l9.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0152_zpsyv5j26l9.jpg.html)
Post by: Bigdave_185 on April 11, 2017, 02:41:31 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Bear9350 on April 12, 2017, 08:29:58 AM
All the axle hanging brackets and hardware etc.. This stuff came just in time as I was hoping to weld the hanger brackets on to the frame rail before building the frame structure. I want to weld these on first so I don't have to do any upside down welds. I could do it but this will assure the welds are good.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0154_zps4kcxplo1.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0154_zps4kcxplo1.jpg.html)
And the stake pockets. These will be welded on the side and a couple on the front of the trailer.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0153_zpskcfvfwxf.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0153_zpskcfvfwxf.jpg.html)
After un-boxing some parts I test fit the wheels on the axles and confirmed a few measurements including spring perch width and inside to inside of tire. New wheels/ tires are mounted up with the new lug nuts. I opted to spend a little more for a capped lug nut to keep the exposed threads covered and out of the weather.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0155_zpsicft4lfy.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0155_zpsicft4lfy.jpg.html)
I needed to watch my little girl last night while my wife was out doing other things for a while. Decided to take her shopping for a few more needed items. Picked up a couple feet of 5/16 G70 chain, hooks and chain links for the safety chain set-up. Then headed over to the trailer area to grab a RV style electrical connector.
Post by: stlaser on April 12, 2017, 09:19:43 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 13, 2017, 08:15:22 AM
Both left and right rails welded up and set-up for cross-members:
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0156_zps28beyabx.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0156_zps28beyabx.jpg.html)
In my excitement to get the cross-members in place I almost forgot I was going to weld the hanger brackets in place first. So I flipped the rails over and located the brackets. As a little note. For the best welds it is always a good idea to weld on bear metal. For all the main frame and axle hanger welds I took a grinder to them and removed all the pickling and scale first. Ready for a hanger bracket.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0157_zps4fqzxrf3.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0157_zps4fqzxrf3.jpg.html)
Then I flipped the rails back over and set width. Placed the first and last cross-member, squared and braced it in place.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0158_zpsbzw7vcwy.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0158_zpsbzw7vcwy.jpg.html)
Started fitting cross-members then. I devised a couple jigs to help locate them a little quicker. Here are a couple shots of all the cross-members in place.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0159_zpsjimr1b8z.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0159_zpsjimr1b8z.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0160_zpsv7ccljaa.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0160_zpsv7ccljaa.jpg.html)
Post by: Bear9350 on April 13, 2017, 08:19:18 AM
Post by: Atkinsmatt on April 13, 2017, 08:33:25 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 13, 2017, 09:03:00 AM
I just got a new 24Ft equipment trailer a couple months ago. I went with 82" but the fenders are removable to give me extra width for loading if I need it.
I'm 83" outside to outside on the main rails and 75-3/4" on the rails the axles are mounted on. That should be fine for loading most equipment and cars. I also plan to make the fenders removable which should give me about 80" between the tires. A full size truck should fit between the wheels as long as the tires aren't to large/ offset. A few 2x6s with the fenders off should get me over the tires if needed.
Post by: cruizng on April 13, 2017, 10:01:39 AM
:likebutton:
Post by: stlaser on April 13, 2017, 10:22:17 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 13, 2017, 10:56:46 AM
Looking good Bear. Nice progress. Are you going to gusset the angles where you jogged in for the axle width?
:likebutton:
I didn't gusset it as you are thinking. After welding the corners I welded a piece of angle in to reinforce the corners.
Jogging the main frame rails in doesn't worry you at all? I realize it's not that heavy duty of a trailer but the way a trailer flexes from the hitch to the rear the main frame rails can move. A simple explanation is if you have ever looked at an aluminum flat deck semi trailer. They have a ton of camber built in and unloaded almost frown front to rear. Load them down fully & they are almost straight. My concern is that you have two weld joints each side that will not flex. So what may happen over the long term are at first stress cracks and then the steel to start tearing. Probably wouldn't happen all at once. It will take time & stress to kill it. We used to tear the front a-frame from the front of our bumper pull deck over steel hauling trailers. They would always fatigue right where the a-frame hitch came out from under front of the deck. I fixed & reinforced many, they all survived a long life after the fix. So with all that stated I would be keeping an eye on that area from time to time. I also wouldn't over gusset it from the start myself. I would run it & see how the metal fatigues if at all then address it as needed. This way you are not adding extra weight where it's not needed. Just my 2 cents.
I drew a few free body diagrams before hand to better picture how I thought the forces would react and I'm really not concerned. If the trailer was handling 10,000 lbs regularly I might be, but then again I would have went with 6" channel instead of 5".
The jogs really do not change the static loading of the frame. When looking at a cross section side view the as you described there will only be a couple inches of the frame impacted. You are correct that this will create a stress concentration. The big difference between your situation and mine is the location. My stress concentration will be very near the front axle hanger bracket. This may sound worse but in fact is better because there is less of a moment occurring on this point and less deflection.
Obviously it is still an interest point and I will keep an eye on it. As you stated it should not fail catastrophically. Stress cracking would probably start forming on the main outside rail just in front of the welds where the jog enters first.
Post by: JR on April 13, 2017, 09:09:23 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 13, 2017, 11:18:18 PM
Started out by removing the spring hardware and springs. Cleaned up the axle and welded the new perches on. I used the old perches to fixture them to some extent and checked my center to center measurement before welding them on solid.
Then reattached the springs. Lined everything up and was quite pleased on how everything lined up very nicely.
I wanted to get this done tonight to check tire clearances and deck height.
Still haven't decided on if I'm going to do the dovetail or just add the extra length to the trailer deck.
Post by: JR on April 13, 2017, 11:33:06 PM
Are you going with a planked deck or treads of some kind?
Post by: stlaser on April 13, 2017, 11:46:55 PM
I also agree I don't like the 18"-24" dovetails for what it's worth.
Post by: Bear9350 on April 13, 2017, 11:47:57 PM
I am planning on 2x8" decking.
Post by: Bear9350 on April 13, 2017, 11:53:41 PM
Dovetail, here's an idea no one has mentioned. I built an 18' equipment trailer once with torsion axles & pintle hitch. I used an extra hd jack & it had a 4' dovetail. I dislike ramps immensely, so the way I had it setup it didn't need ramps. Jack was heavy enough to lift front of trailer & back of truck. Could drive just about anything up on it. With a 4' dovetail the the rear angle wasn't steep. Just a thought.
I also agree I don't like the 18"-24" dovetails for what it's worth.
Hmm... Now you have me thinking about what it would take to make this a tilt trailer. I don't really have a problem with ramps though.
I might have to do a little experimentation with the ramps tomorrow and see what I like and dislike.
Post by: stlaser on April 14, 2017, 12:07:29 AM
They clang around
If they flip up (for traveling) they look dumb
Take longer to attach (if they store underneath)
Storage is a pain
People want to steal them
Again, I dislike ramps immensely. I think Don likes them so that's another reason to dislike them! :popcorn:
Post by: KensAuto on April 14, 2017, 12:26:07 AM
I also find dovetails useless, unless you're running 35s for tires. Lol
Sent from a spaceship
Post by: stlaser on April 14, 2017, 12:28:50 AM
It takes what, 2 minutes to set a couple ramps? Jeez you're getting lazy Shawn.
I also find dovetails useless, unless you're running 35s for tires. Lol
Sent from a spaceship
I personally think this goes back to your GF. I'm sure she needed a set of ramps or several big guys to get her into/onto whatever was transporting her around at the time. Copy, Ken likes ramps..... :popcorn:
Post by: JR on April 14, 2017, 12:50:10 AM
Tilt gets you best of it all, no ramps and no dovetail!!
Post by: KensAuto on April 14, 2017, 12:54:02 AM
Maybe as a global moderator, I should put you on notice...A verbal warning?
..Ban referral?.
..Or, Should I tell everyone where I picked HRC up from the other night, when someone's Jeep left her stranded? In the old days, we used the "I ran out of gas" line, not " oh the wire fell off of the starter". Smh
Sorry Bear... Please forgive!
Sent from a spaceship
Post by: JR on April 14, 2017, 12:58:11 AM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on April 14, 2017, 07:25:33 AM
I'm ramp neutral but I don't care for dovetails on anything shorter than 30 feet.
With those cankles, HRC needs a crane, not ramps
Post by: stlaser on April 14, 2017, 08:30:12 AM
I shall not help you destroy someone else's awesome thread... I won't stoop to your level... Nope... Not going to do it.
Maybe as a global moderator, I should put you on notice...A verbal warning?
..Ban referral?.
..Or, Should I tell everyone where I picked HRC up from the other night, when someone's Jeep left her stranded? In the old days, we used the "I ran out of gas" line, not " oh the wire fell off of the starter". Smh
Sorry Bear... Please forgive!
Sent from a spaceship
What's that saying again? When the jeeps a rocking don't come knocking? However, it is a jeep at the end of the day & we were talking about your GF.
With that stated we know the jeep suspension would not hold up to such abuse. Hence I wouldn't have needed to say a wire was off the starter as it would have had 4 flats, a few broken springs, bent shocks & I'm sure H would have been screaming at everyone how this was all someone else's fault. :popcorn:
Post by: EL TATE on April 14, 2017, 02:00:50 PM
Post by: JR on April 14, 2017, 02:03:57 PM
"What, at this point, does it all really matter?"
OK, Hillary :beercheers:
Post by: Flyin6 on April 15, 2017, 11:01:42 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 18, 2017, 09:10:33 AM
I didn't get much done over the weekend but got back out there last night.
I decided to add to the overall length of the trailer instead of doing the dovetail as originally planned. Since I had already been working on the rear I started out be extending the rails a bit. Then I cut the holes in the rear bumper for lights and welded it on. Mounted the lights in it for a test fit to make sure everything would work out nicely.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0164_zpsjd4atiqr.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0164_zpsjd4atiqr.jpg.html)
Next up was extending the front of the trailer. With that done the frame of the trailer is completed.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0165_zps0xhhjkzn.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0165_zps0xhhjkzn.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0166_zpss9hcx7z4.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0166_zpss9hcx7z4.jpg.html)
Post by: Bear9350 on April 18, 2017, 09:13:44 AM
Post by: Flyin6 on April 18, 2017, 10:42:24 PM
Post by: JR on April 18, 2017, 11:53:10 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 19, 2017, 08:21:53 AM
Started out building the ramps. These things are heavier then I expected. I am wondering if I should have built them lighter. 2"x1/4" angle all the way around and 15" wide.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0167_zpsbbxo7ez1.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0167_zpsbbxo7ez1.jpg.html)
The approach angle doesn't seem to high though. I shouldn't have an issue loading the majority of what I plan to haul with these.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0168_zpskcynfsbk.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0168_zpskcynfsbk.jpg.html)
Then I built the ramp storage into the rear of the trailer. No pics of that. I built them to both slide in from the right side of the trailer.
Then I spent some time welding on a few of the stake pockets onto the rails. I plan to put (3) in front of the axle on each side, (2) behind the axle on each side and (1) on each front corner.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0169_zpsdxt2h2eq.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0169_zpsdxt2h2eq.jpg.html)
Then I started trying to figure out the fenders and the steps by the fenders. After a little figuring and some measurements I stepped inside and designed everything in CAD. I had a couple bumper orders come in over the weekend so I figured it would be easier to design these parts up and send to get cut on the laser vs. me cutting everything by hand. Hoping my laser guys come through for me and I am able to pick it all up in Friday.
Post by: Flyin6 on April 19, 2017, 11:50:10 AM
The ramps on my 18' trailer are built in the same manner and heavy enough for me leave them alone and to order the boys to hook them up!
Post by: Bear9350 on April 19, 2017, 01:01:37 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 19, 2017, 01:48:52 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 19, 2017, 02:06:51 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 24, 2017, 10:31:42 AM
The parts I sent out to get cut got done Friday and I picked them up. Started out by assembling the fender corner steps. The fenders will mount to these and there will be clearance lights in them. Welded all (4) of them up and then welded to the trailer frame.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0178_zpsgbtjgeuw.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0178_zpsgbtjgeuw.jpg.html)
Then a started putting the fenders together. For stuff like this that I have laser cut I have notches and tabs added to aid in assembly. Here the first one is with the front and back held together with the bracing. The front and back had notches cut in them where the bracing tabs was inserted.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0174_zpsjwjwvttw.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0174_zpsjwjwvttw.jpg.html)
Then started putting the top plates on it.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0175_zpsq5dishkh.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0175_zpsq5dishkh.jpg.html)
After the first one was put together I did a test fit on the trailer and checked for clearances. These will be bolt on fenders so that I can take them off to load a wider vehicle.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0181_zpswbgzmivq.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0181_zpswbgzmivq.jpg.html)
And both of them welded out. I still need to do a little grinding work on them to clean them up before they get painted. The fenders are heavier than they need to be. I had them cut from 3/16" material. I wanted them a little stouter though so they would hold up.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0183_zpsweqummzh.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0183_zpsweqummzh.jpg.html)
Next up was finishing the rub rail. I had already welded the stake pockets in place. I had about 40" between stake pockets. I decided to add a piece of 2" OD tube between the pockets to help support the rub rail. The rail itself if 2-1/3" x1/4" flat.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0182_zpshajud3zj.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0182_zpshajud3zj.jpg.html)
Then I finished up the ramp storage. I had already built it but didn't have the pins at that time. With the pins in hand I wanted to finish that up. I got to J-pins to retain the ramps. I added a small plate with a hole to hold the long side of the pin. Then drilled the holes in the required areas to retain the ramp. The spring keeps the pin in place but allows the pin to be pulled out far enough to rotate out of the retainer holes.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0187_zpsydx48yd5.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0187_zpsydx48yd5.jpg.html)
Sunday morning I had a little time before church to start laying/ figuring out a plan to weld the tongue to the trailer. Will hopefully get that done tonight.
Post by: stlaser on April 24, 2017, 10:39:43 AM
Post by: KensAuto on April 24, 2017, 01:19:43 PM
Oh, I seem to remember someone accusing me of overbuilding my bumper. :) :beercheers:
Post by: Bear9350 on April 24, 2017, 01:38:14 PM
Beautiful work bud. Might wanna throw some lock tabs on those ramps. I hear people like to steal them.
Oh, I seem to remember someone accusing me of overbuilding my bumper. :) :beercheers:
In my location and where I normally travel I am not to worried about somebody stealing them. I have a truck bed tool box I plan to mount to the front of the trailer when it is done. I figure I will just keep a short length of chain with a lock in there. If I am ever in an area where I am concerned I will just throw the chain around the ramps and lock it.
I do recall that. I do not remember stating I was not guilty of the same. :beercheers:
Post by: Bigdave_185 on April 24, 2017, 03:03:13 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Bear9350 on April 24, 2017, 03:51:35 PM
I am hoping to get an actual shop built this coming winter. Later this summer I plan to get with some contractors and get some quotes. Hoping we will be able to pull it off financially speaking. I am planning a "barn shop". I would like to do a 2 story shop. 12' walls on the first floor and 8' on the second. First floor would be were all the work gets done and second would be mainly storage. I know at some point my wife will be getting her parents 36 Ford truck and car. Her Grandpa restored the car and when he passed her mom got it. They already don't really have a good place to store it. It is in a storage unit now. Her dad is almost done putting together the truck. Again they have no place to store that either. Her grandpa also restored another car. Her cousin has it right now but he has no real interest in it and suspect he is not caring for it properly. She is hoping to get that one also before something happens to it. Of course she also has her own aspirations and I do as well. I figure a second story to the shop we be a perfect place to store them. I still need to work out all the details to figure out if and how it will work.
Post by: Bob Smith on April 24, 2017, 03:58:40 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 25, 2017, 07:51:56 AM
If you leave part of the 2nd story floor out, buy a lift that you can store one car under the one up on the lift.
I would prefer not to store vehicles in an area I intend to work in. I do a decent amount of work with metal. I plan to have a specific room setup for most of the welding and grinding with an exhaust system and dust collector system. There will always be bigger projects and the like that won't fit though. As soon as you touch a grinder on steel that dust goes everywhere.
Post by: Bear9350 on April 25, 2017, 08:10:49 AM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0188_zps7on18g6x.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0188_zps7on18g6x.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0188_zps7on18g6x.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0188_zps7on18g6x.jpg.html)
Then I added a piece of 5" x 3/8" angle to the front. It took me longer to determine how I wanted to attach the safety chains and what I needed then it did to determine anything else. I remembered I had a few pieces of this angle left over from another project. I cut it to fit inside the frame rails and welded it in place.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0190_zpsv8cy57tn.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0190_zpsv8cy57tn.jpg.html)
I will drill a couple holes to the bottom edge and pin a couple of chain repair links to them and to the chains.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0192_zps9afoukkn.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0192_zps9afoukkn.jpg.html)
Tonight I plan to finish wrapping the rest of the tongue down the frame to the front of the fenders.
Post by: stlaser on April 25, 2017, 08:24:12 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 25, 2017, 09:16:19 AM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0184_zpsj9xvgtbq.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0184_zpsj9xvgtbq.jpg.html)
Post by: Bigdave_185 on April 25, 2017, 02:43:11 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Sammconn on April 25, 2017, 03:40:15 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on April 25, 2017, 05:14:44 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on April 25, 2017, 07:20:34 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on April 25, 2017, 09:07:03 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Sammconn on April 25, 2017, 10:24:53 PM
It was free and here.
I'm going to have to redo it all.
The redo will be rigid conduit, threaded and welded to the fittings.
Welding may be a bad idea but that's how I'm seeing it now.
The biggest problem is keeping the brake wires on for me.
The rock litteraly eats it off at the backer plate.
That is the real solution I need to find.
Post by: Bear9350 on April 26, 2017, 08:02:10 AM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0193_zps6n3hgxzy.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0193_zps6n3hgxzy.jpg.html)
Then I welded the jack stub on the trailer to mount the jack. I placed it on the inside of the frame to make sure it stays out of the way. Used a small length of the 3" channel that was cut of the cross members to space it out of the channel.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0194_zpsdnv4ygc4.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0194_zpsdnv4ygc4.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0195_zpsni3t4kly.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0195_zpsni3t4kly.jpg.html)
The pin can be pulled from the jack and rotated up out of the way.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0197_zps18eslqg1.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0197_zps18eslqg1.jpg.html)
Checked the fit of the coupler. I was able to find some washers and fit them in on one side to remove most of the side to side play. There is a good bit of rotation about the bolts though. It almost seems as if a little larger bolt could be used or the coupler holes are to large.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0196_zpsanwwhbwa.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0196_zpsanwwhbwa.jpg.html)
Then I welded a cross member into the bottom side of the A-frame rails. This was added directly under the front most cross member.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0198_zpsrsfe10py.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0198_zpsrsfe10py.jpg.html)
I finished up the tongue by welding a second piece of 5" channel under the first running it all the way back as far as I could. Stitch welded it to the top piece on both the outside and inside.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0199_zps0wwmwerr.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0199_zps0wwmwerr.jpg.html)
Then blasted 2 holes through the tongue to accept a couple of clearance lights. This is on the corner of the tongue assembly.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0200_zpssvdnbyfm.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0200_zpssvdnbyfm.jpg.html)
I plan to run over some of the corners with a grinder tonight to make sure there aren't any sharp corners etc.. Then I believe it should be ready for paint.
Post by: Bigdave_185 on April 26, 2017, 08:22:33 AM
When not in use. Helps keep them crossed for this who don't know and a spot to always attach them for consistency,
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Post by: Bear9350 on April 27, 2017, 10:21:07 AM
The actual break-away switch.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0207_zpskitlv0vs.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0207_zpskitlv0vs.jpg.html)
And the reserve battery box.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0206_zpsdizxomxb.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0206_zpsdizxomxb.jpg.html)
The idea here is that the cable is attached to the tow vehicle. If a break-away should occur the pin is ripped from the switch. This applies the brakes to the trailer axle. It the electric is also removed or not hooked up the battery reserve has enough power to apply the brakes to the trailer axles.
First up built and welded a mounting bracket under the deck to mount the battery box.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0208_zpsslmsqpqe.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0208_zpsslmsqpqe.jpg.html)
And battery box test mounted. I had some short bolts and nuts on hand. I welded the nut to the plate but will need to grab some longer bolts.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0212_zpsci7q0zrc.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0212_zpsci7q0zrc.jpg.html)
Then I mounted the actual break-away switch to the front of the piece of angle iron I used to install the safety chains. This seemed like a good protected spot to prevent damage but also work effectively.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0214_zpsh9w4xjog.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0214_zpsh9w4xjog.jpg.html)
Then I did a little grinding work to clean any sharp corners on the trailer. I removed the rear most tires from the axles and threw the tires on the very rear of the trailer. This made the trailer nearly perfectly balance allowing me to push it out of the garage by hand. I moved some stuff out of the way and cleaned up the garage floor so that I could push the trailer into the center stall and then spin it so it was in the garage sideways. With the rear tire removed I was able to spin and manipulate it very easily.
Removed both axles and jacked it up. I decided that I wasn't going to invest much into paint at this time. This build was already over budget from where I wanted it to be. If I want I will get it blasted and painted properly in the future. I just blew it off with air and decided it was ready for paint.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0216_zpsg3bssi8x.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0216_zpsg3bssi8x.jpg.html)
I picked up a gallon of Rustoleam tractor paint in low gloss black for $30. It seemed to spray ok and cover well. The future will tell how well it holds up on this un-prepped steel.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0218_zpssgbwghsy.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0218_zpssgbwghsy.jpg.html)
Post by: Bear9350 on April 27, 2017, 10:23:50 AM
Post by: Sammconn on April 27, 2017, 10:41:27 AM
Post by: cj7ox on April 27, 2017, 11:23:46 AM
Post by: JR on April 27, 2017, 11:53:45 AM
(guess I should proof read better :rolleyes: )
Post by: Bear9350 on April 27, 2017, 12:03:58 PM
Post by: stlaser on April 27, 2017, 08:06:29 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on May 03, 2017, 08:04:09 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on May 08, 2017, 01:19:39 PM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0224_zpsxvrd1ond.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0224_zpsxvrd1ond.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0225_zps9krjvutw.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0225_zps9krjvutw.jpg.html)
Saturday I got the deck on. Then Sat PM while tending the burn pile I finished fitting a few things and checked the lights put in the dark.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0226_zpsmzwxxsm8.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0226_zpsmzwxxsm8.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0227_zps6mc36y75.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0227_zps6mc36y75.jpg.html)
After a couple test drives I don't think the brakes are working properly. They don't seem to fully release all the way right away and don't seem to ramp up high enough. Before putting the decking on I wasn't able to get the brakes to lock up when on a slow roll. I'm not sure if they just need to be adjusted or if something else is wrong.
Post by: KensAuto on May 08, 2017, 01:32:44 PM
Post by: Sammconn on May 08, 2017, 01:33:53 PM
They 'should' do it on their own.
You need to reverse slowly and manually apply IIRC.
Do it a few times and they should tighten up.
Then another road test to try and repeat as needed.
And what Ken said.
Post by: JR on May 08, 2017, 01:36:23 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on May 08, 2017, 01:48:09 PM
JR, manually using the controller gives me the same results as applying the brakes. At first nothing but now there is some braking.
Post by: Bob Smith on May 08, 2017, 01:54:23 PM
Post by: JR on May 08, 2017, 01:59:25 PM
Is the controller new?
Post by: KensAuto on May 08, 2017, 04:12:22 PM
I know that if you put new shoes and magnets on old drums, they have to wear in, mostly on the magnet side, and if you clean the drums with solvent, it will take longer to break in. If everything is old and was not touched, you have an issue somewhere.
...and it's been my experience on trailers, that if they are too loose, they will actually grab harder (it allows the magnet to travel farther, gaining more leverage)
Post by: Bear9350 on May 09, 2017, 07:49:58 AM
The controller was installed on the truck when I purchased it. It is not an integrated unit. Seems to be working correctly as I get a read out when the brakes are applied with the controller hooked up.
I used 10 ga Cu clad Al wire for all the wiring. All the grounds are wired back to the truck.
Post by: Sammconn on May 09, 2017, 08:05:19 AM
Depending on storage they may be stuck/rusted as well.
I missed they were used, and assumed they were new loose.
They may well be old stuck...
Post by: Bob Smith on May 09, 2017, 11:01:16 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on May 09, 2017, 01:08:00 PM
Running the heavier wire and running a ground back to the truck is worth the extra little bit of money to do it. It avoids so many wiring headaches in the future.
Post by: Sammconn on May 09, 2017, 01:28:18 PM
I found the manual for the brake controller I have. I might need to set it up properly. Will see if that helps. This model isn't top of the line but I think it should work out ok.You may need to adjust the gain on the controller once you get them to manually activate.
Running the heavier wire and running a ground back to the truck is worth the extra little bit of money to do it. It avoids so many wiring headaches in the future.
But they all should lock the tires with it empty when manually applied.
Once you get there, then you can work on the loaded unloaded gain settings you need.
The one I have is also not top shelf, but has a coarse and fine gain dial.
Different trailers need a little more of a little less on he fine.
Once you get it set you'll be laughing.
Post by: Bear9350 on May 11, 2017, 02:15:17 PM
Got to cut the lawn tonight when I get home from work. After that is done I might have time to pull the wheels and hubs off to take a look at the actual brakes and re-pack the bearings.
Post by: Bear9350 on May 12, 2017, 10:26:38 PM
Took the hubs off tonight. Didn't see anything amiss with the brakes.
Post by: Sammconn on May 13, 2017, 12:24:27 AM
I've improvised on the side of the road with a big slotted screwdriver.
They do make seal pullers, kind of hammer shaped, but it's garbage anyway, so I just knock them out and chuck them.
Post by: KensAuto on May 13, 2017, 08:09:45 AM
Or use a hammer handle and beat the inner bearing from the other side (it won't hurt it)
Side note...be sure to put them back on in the original locations
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Post by: KensAuto on May 13, 2017, 08:12:43 AM
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Post by: Bear9350 on May 13, 2017, 09:27:51 AM
I will grab a pic of the brakes when I get back tomorrow.
Post by: Sammconn on May 13, 2017, 10:43:34 AM
Bear, was just thinking about something.. can you post a pic of your brakes and the orientation to the front of the trailer?Ken, you're thinking what I'm thinking aren't you?
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Post by: KensAuto on May 13, 2017, 12:20:00 PM
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Post by: Sammconn on May 13, 2017, 01:26:33 PM
:beercheers:
Post by: Bob Smith on May 13, 2017, 03:25:16 PM
Post by: KensAuto on May 13, 2017, 04:19:50 PM
Post by: Bob Smith on May 13, 2017, 04:30:25 PM
Post by: Sammconn on May 13, 2017, 06:49:11 PM
Post by: KensAuto on May 13, 2017, 07:05:05 PM
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Post by: Sammconn on May 13, 2017, 07:44:36 PM
Post by: Bob Smith on May 13, 2017, 08:33:55 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on May 14, 2017, 08:49:55 AM
You guys didn't have a secret to begin with. I was pretty sure I knew what you were getting at. I had the wheels up in the air Friday night. Brakes locked the wheels up when rotated in the forward direction and realased when rotated back. So pretty sure I didn't put the axles on backwards. There was 1 wheel that didn't lock up at all. Not sure what is going on with that one. Didn't have time to investigate.
Will snap some pics after some mother's day events here today so you guys can inspect.
Post by: Sammconn on May 14, 2017, 10:25:41 AM
So it could be a wear or grease or adjustment thing.
To be fair I didn't think you would hang them backwards, but evidence was beginning to point that way...at least you don't need to re-hang them. You'll get it sorted.
Post by: Bear9350 on May 15, 2017, 10:21:03 AM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0233_zpspqw7r1yl.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0233_zpspqw7r1yl.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0236_zpsz9tu6ymx.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0236_zpsz9tu6ymx.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0239_zpsigb5lpr5.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0239_zpsigb5lpr5.jpg.html)
Post by: KensAuto on May 15, 2017, 01:06:01 PM
At least it's facing the right direction, proving my theory wrong. The reason i thought they could be backwards is because you can't tell which way they go without taking off the drums.
Post by: Bear9350 on May 15, 2017, 01:15:24 PM
The magnet moves freely. I will be checking for power tonight and will see how freely everything is moving.
Post by: Bob Smith on May 15, 2017, 01:30:09 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on May 15, 2017, 01:35:03 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on May 16, 2017, 07:42:30 AM
Post by: Bob Smith on May 16, 2017, 01:26:53 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on May 16, 2017, 11:04:42 PM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0240_zpsabj9ird2.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0240_zpsabj9ird2.jpg.html)
Post by: Sammconn on May 16, 2017, 11:14:41 PM
There is no net to the usefulness of a good trailer.
Post by: JR on May 17, 2017, 08:42:46 PM
1/2 ton, brave man.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 17, 2017, 08:53:40 PM
I have that same tractor and I really like it. That whole set up is probably only 5K, which should be a breeze for a 1/2 ton.
Bear, that's quite the nice result from your efforts. looks good.
Post by: JR on May 17, 2017, 09:25:02 PM
Still feels funny.
Post by: Bear9350 on May 17, 2017, 10:15:13 PM
The truck did fine pulling it. Just need to get used to a different driving style.
I like the Kubota except for the hydro pedal. I hate that. I can get used to it after a while but still don't like it. I'm currently searching for a used compact but will probably rule Kubota out for that reason alone.
Post by: Mrwoody on May 17, 2017, 11:13:29 PM
I have a L3600 kubota with the "Glide shift". 8 speeds on the left and forward and reverse on a "turn signal lever". It's good for loader work and tight places. Manual trans are a pain for loader work but good for straight pulling.try test driving a glide shift if you can find one
Post by: Bear9350 on May 18, 2017, 08:03:12 AM
I will probably be going with a little older unit. Thinking I want something between 30-35 hp. I've been looking at some Deere 4310s. Built between 2002-2004. There are some with 2,000+ hours that still look like they are in good shape. That leaves me to believe the ones with 200-500 hours on them and in the price range I am looking for should have a lot of life left in them.
Post by: Bear9350 on May 18, 2017, 08:05:23 AM
https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/18793595/2003-john-deere-4310
Post by: TexasRedNeck on May 18, 2017, 08:18:26 PM
Post by: cruizng on May 19, 2017, 01:27:11 AM
Works slick. I can pile up the snow pretty high.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Bear9350 on May 19, 2017, 08:11:07 AM
Post by: Flyin6 on May 19, 2017, 03:15:46 PM
Two pedals instead of the wobble-matic thing on some other brands.
By comparison, the 2720 I just bought with, 31.5HP I think with a 72" belly mount mower and a 200CX loader was right at $22K
Post by: Bear9350 on May 20, 2017, 09:56:54 PM
Post by: rcampbell on June 22, 2017, 09:21:04 PM
Post by: cruizng on June 23, 2017, 09:12:39 AM
I probably use the backhoe more than the front loader. I have a thumb on it and I pick up fallen tree's to buck up, railroad ties, large boulders, digging out huge oak tree stumps..(granted it takes a long time - would rather have an excavator LOL) pulling down ropes or other stuff. I also made up a receiver hitch that I attached to the bucket and tried to move my 20' steel car hauler trailer but going down the little hill it pushed the Kubota all over. I had to pick up a load of dirt in the front loader to add front ballast.
I use the front loader for spreading gravel and moving dirt from one pile to another and just general hauling like firewood but that's about it.
I haven't run into lack of power issues but you can always want/need move hydraulic lifting power. The backhoe arm is much more powerful than the FEL.
My 2cts. :grin:
Post by: Flyin6 on June 23, 2017, 09:17:27 AM
The reason I went with the Kubota BX25 was the backhoe. I have a Toro Zero turn for mowing and it works much better than a Tractor. The Kubota with a backhoe was right at $22K.If you understand this, then you understand just how powerful a track-hoe really is.
I probably use the backhoe more than the front loader. I have a thumb on it and I pick up fallen tree's to buck up, railroad ties, large boulders, digging out huge oak tree stumps..(granted it takes a long time - would rather have an excavator LOL) pulling down ropes or other stuff. I also made up a receiver hitch that I attached to the bucket and tried to move my 20' steel car hauler trailer but going down the little hill it pushed the Kubota all over. I had to pick up a load of dirt in the front loader to add front ballast.
I use the front loader for spreading gravel and moving dirt from one pile to another and just general hauling like firewood but that's about it.
I haven't run into lack of power issues but you can always want/need move hydraulic lifting power. The backhoe arm is much more powerful than the FEL.
My 2cts. :grin:
Post by: cruizng on June 23, 2017, 10:33:18 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on September 18, 2017, 09:21:31 AM