Woodland Mills HM-130 Sawmill

[KensAuto]

Beautiful work Big D!

That would be cedar, right?

[Flyin6]

Yes, Ken, Cedar...which up to this point was a pest plant and or future fence posts

This mill changed that up for sure!

[TexasRedNeck]

Don I'm jelly. Very nice. I think you had asked a question about concrete tube forms some where. I apologize for failing to respond. Would you repeat the question ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wilbur]

They think I am a bit of an anomaly...

Good to keep them guessing....

[Flyin6]

Don I'm jelly. Very nice. I think you had asked a question about concrete tube forms some where. I apologize for failing to respond. Would you repeat the question ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I figured it out...

I was inquiring about how much concrete per sonotube.

I rethought my project. About how I want to erect this building at the lowest possible cost. I was going to bore 8 holes with 8" sonotubes inserted and filled with quickcrete, for the stanchions for the sawmill mount. But now I think I'll bore the holes, insert Cedar logs, backfill with quickcrete and call it a day. Then level and cut off the log bases and mount a 6X6X20 onto the poles and bolt the saw to that.

So I'm good...

[Wilbur]

Here ya go Don:

3.14 x radius of tube (that's half the diameter so 8" hole = 4" diameter) squared * length of tube

MINUS

height * width * length of cedar post

 

8" hole 24" deep with 5" x 5" cedar pole = 605 cu in concrete

a 60 lb bag of premix (only add water) should get you about 3 maybe 4 holes.

[Flyin6]

^^^ I'm smiling

I sort of know the math...

Pilot stuff...

Thanks anyway!

[TexasRedNeck]

Or you can read the side of the tube form and it will tell you. Bags/ft


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bob Smith]

I am not sure you want to set that mill on green timbers. If the mill has to stay level, how do you plan on keeping the timbers staying straight while they are drying out? Also, ran into a guy while up hunting, he was running a mill on his place with many piles of logs sitting around. All the log ends were painted with lots of different colors. I had to ask, his comment was, paint the ends up good and it cuts down on the cracking while they are drying out, paint is paint color doesn't matter.

[Bigdave_185]

Pour Crete and put threaded rod in so you can adjust height as needed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wilbur]

^^^ I'm smiling

I sort of know the math...

Pilot stuff...

Thanks anyway!

Well whatdja ask that Tejas guy fur then? Jes quizin' him?   

Well don't come crying to me when you end up with enough concrete left over to line ur pond....*taking my math equations and going home* haha. 

[KensAuto]

Don't worry Wilbur, I'm just waiting for "Mr Piluuut" to get the hair brained idea of using the new chipper as a cement mixer. 

[Wilbur]

 

 

 

[JR]

I'm sure there is a PTO mixer out there with his name on it.

[Sammconn]

  
 

[Bear9350]

Next week there will be a thread titled "Whatever brand Don bought Concrete Mixer".

First post- " With the purchase of the saw mill and the plan for all the construction I am going to be pouring a lot of concrete...."

[Wilbur]

Next week there will be a thread titled "Whatever brand Don bought Concrete Mixer".

First post- " With the purchase of the saw mill and the plan for all the construction I am going to be pouring a lot of concrete...."

And all it needs is an oil change.....

 

[Flyin6]

I am not sure you want to set that mill on green timbers. If the mill has to stay level, how do you plan on keeping the timbers staying straight while they are drying out? Also, ran into a guy while up hunting, he was running a mill on his place with many piles of logs sitting around. All the log ends were painted with lots of different colors. I had to ask, his comment was, paint the ends up good and it cuts down on the cracking while they are drying out, paint is paint color doesn't matter.

The mill tracks are set on adjustable height feet. Take a look back in the assembly thread.

So plan is to dig the holes, place in cedar posts on top of concrete, and surrounded by concrete and let that all set up. Come back with a laser or water level and saw off the timbers to the uniform height. Bolt a single 6 X 6 X 20 ontol each run and finally set the mill on that. I'll do final leveling of mill tracks with the laser level and start sawing up my little slice of the planet

[Flyin6]

Don't worry Wilbur, I'm just waiting for "Mr Piluuut" to get the hair brained idea of using the new chipper as a cement mixer. 

Can it mix concrete too?

With different knives installed???

[TexasRedNeck]

I bought the little HF mixer.  Not a bad little rig for less than $200 when mixing smaller batches.  Just don't put it on uneven ground and let it tip over backwards with 3 bags of concrete and water in it..  Makes lifting it up off the ground a bit of a challenge....don't ask me how I know.

[Flyin6]

I bought the little HF mixer.  Not a bad little rig for less than $200 when mixing smaller batches.  Just don't put it on uneven ground and let it tip over backwards with 3 bags of concrete and water in it..  Makes lifting it up off the ground a bit of a challenge....don't ask me how I know.

I was just looking at that thing last week!

[Flyin6]

So we saw the creation of the sawmill base on the hide site thread. It has been build and now awaits the arrival of the saw itself

I broke the track down and have readied it for transport to the final assembly site

[Flyin6]

I believe this should pretty much conclude this thread except for some future reports on durability and quality and so forth. From now on this saw will be seen adding visibly to the growth of the farmstead

[TexasRedNeck]

I'm looking into mills and found some U built it kits with HD looking stuff and 30 inch throat.  Not cheap but really heavy stuff.  I am keenly interested in:

Accuracy of the adjustments for board thickness
Engine power to production speed value
lubrication and tensioning of the blade.
General durability

[Flyin6]

I'm looking into mills and found some U built it kits with HD looking stuff and 30 inch throat.  Not cheap but really heavy stuff.  I am keenly interested in:

Accuracy of the adjustments for board thickness
Engine power to production speed value
lubrication and tensioning of the blade.
General durability

You're on it

Those are key questions to be sure

Call the Woodland Mills folks. They will talk a bunch about power required.

I was confused by so many others bolting on 19-25HP and asked them about it.

They said they were cutting fine with around 10HP, but with so many people asking for a bigger engine they bolted on the 14HP Kohler that's on my mill. Now I have cut all of one little log, but it went through the thickest part of that log like it wasn't there. I could have pushed the saw through it quick if I wanted to

[JR]

Sure you will get more of a feel for it too as use goes up.

I want to see some wood on some walls.

[Flyin6]

Sure you will get more of a feel for it too as use goes up.

I want to see some wood on some walls.

:-))

[Sammconn]

I can't wait to see the old 'logs' from in the barn get opened up!
There could be some real nice pieces come from them.

Oh, on that topic, do you have a metal detector Don?
Will pay for itself in blades real quick.
Not necessarily this one, but one of similar stature.

http://www.detectmetal.com/metal-detector-review.htm

[Flyin6]

I can't wait to see the old 'logs' from in the barn get opened up!
There could be some real nice pieces come from them.

Oh, on that topic, do you have a metal detector Don?
Will pay for itself in blades real quick.
Not necessarily this one, but one of similar stature.

http://www.detectmetal.com/metal-detector-review.htm

Second time I've heard this in the past few days...I'll pay attention and go get one

Danke'

[stlaser]

Any updates on this? I’m considering buying one now…..

[Flyin6]

Not sure what you may be looking for, but mine finally wore out the blade guides, the "blade load" roller on the guides and the belt on the drive pulley. I purchased new parts and the saw was right back in order.
I managed to finally wear out a bunch of blades.
Pay attention to setting the tension (More than they prescribe, or it will cut propeller blades. Do not go to fast but just push it along. Low tension and going too fast will cause the blade to follow along the grain and not through it.
This is a good quality saw, and the blades they sell are good as well.
In my view, you do not need a big long track like mine (24 feet I think???)
I'd buy it again

[stlaser]

Not sure what you may be looking for, but mine finally wore out the blade guides, the "blade load" roller on the guides and the belt on the drive pulley. I purchased new parts and the saw was right back in order.
I managed to finally wear out a bunch of blades.
Pay attention to setting the tension (More than they prescribe, or it will cut propeller blades. Do not go to fast but just push it along. Low tension and going too fast will cause the blade to follow along the grain and not through it.
This is a good quality saw, and the blades they sell are good as well.
In my view, you do not need a big long track like mine (24 feet I think???)
I'd buy it again

Why not a long track? I was thinking 16’ worth, standard lumber length

[Flyin6]

Not sure what you may be looking for, but mine finally wore out the blade guides, the "blade load" roller on the guides and the belt on the drive pulley. I purchased new parts and the saw was right back in order.
I managed to finally wear out a bunch of blades.
Pay attention to setting the tension (More than they prescribe, or it will cut propeller blades. Do not go to fast but just push it along. Low tension and going too fast will cause the blade to follow along the grain and not through it.
This is a good quality saw, and the blades they sell are good as well.
In my view, you do not need a big long track like mine (24 feet I think???)
I'd buy it again

Why not a long track? I was thinking 16’ worth, standard lumber length

Well, obviously, you need to set up for what you plan to cut.
I was thinking I'd need these uber-long 6X6's for a coming pole barn (Built already.)
Next, I noticed when I put a log on the deck, I was butting a lot off the big end just to get a good square on the small end. You really waste a lot doing that
But when I'd just cut a 10-footer, I could get 5-6 good boards out of it. This is my experience and my situation is different and I am inexperienced. Another thing I'd say is FOR SURE also buy yourself a chipper. You will get 5-10 waste pieces off each bunk. Now you can cut those down to fireplace length and have thinner pieces that will burn up in 15 minutes, or you can feed them to the chipper and have enough mulch to have beds all over the place. Cut just cedar, fill a pillow case and you have an instant aromatic dog bed. (Cats are tools and left outside, so who cares about them).

One other point. Buy the blades for what you are cutting as the teeth are a different pitch for pine vs oaks.

And my last piece of advice. When you are in the neighborhood, visit Don and grab a piece of something off his property so that something of mine can be nailed up in your place!
Oh, if you plan to cut 16' then you'll need track that goes 3' or so past that to take up the length of the trolly/cutter.