Author Topic: SquareD Part 3: Body work, paint, roof rack, and farther off course ... (Read 166781 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #300 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:32:48 PM »

I am using a mixture of air-soft pellets and copper clad BB's as internal balance media

THis should be enough (or not)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #301 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:33:26 PM »

Next I hefted the tire into place and dropped it on the wheel bottom

Flyin6 · « **Reply #302 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:34:18 PM »

Next I squeezed some Silicone into the recess. I tried to match the stuff that was in there from the "Factory" and this seemed to match the color at least

Flyin6 · « **Reply #303 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:35:10 PM »

Next up the outer bead "Clamp" ring was slid into place and some anti seize was then applied to the 1/2 X 20 threaded stud

Flyin6 · « **Reply #304 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:35:55 PM »

Note how proud the clamp ring sits on the studs...about an inch. THat will soon change.

I deviated a little from the Armee specified hardware. They just use a shouldered nut. I elected to use a grade 8 SAE washer and then the nut so that the back side of the nut would not gall the parent metal of the lock ring providing a nice place for rust to start

Flyin6 · « **Reply #305 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:36:43 PM »

Yep, I didn't buy enough for all 5 wheels... I was thinking 4 wheels, 12 studs each for a grand total of 48...so a pack of 50 worked just fine. Well, now I get to buy another couple packs for plenty of spare nuts!

Hardware stacked on

Flyin6 · « **Reply #306 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:37:52 PM »

Fuzzy pics...I guess this new jap camera is malfunctioning...and why not? it's a couple years old, jap made and planned obsolescence and all that.

What ever happened to American quality goods?

There is a whole lot of tightening going on...probably taking the most time of all the processes here. I kept tightening a little then going opposite, back and forth many times until that outer ring collapsed all the way down onto the inner flange

Flyin6 · « **Reply #307 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:38:48 PM »

It actually held air!

Man was I surprised!

And here it is mounted up to Square D

Flyin6 · « **Reply #308 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:39:30 PM »

My compliments to John Staz at Stazworks for building the centers and creating the double beadlock plastic spacer, and to James Sweet for doing the machine work.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #309 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:46:33 PM »

From Ashley:

So, whats the next plan of attack for the Dodge? Tires are mounted. Wheels are done. What is the next POA ?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #310 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:46:54 PM »

Bones...

Gotta follow the bones

The front suspension is next, of course (sort of).

But the cab needs to get lowered back, and that means first I need to finish the underside (tomorrow??). Now we know that the cab bone is connected to the bed bone.

I need to get the bed back on so I can check out alignment of body parts whilst I remake the front suspension bones. But before I put the bed back on, the cab bone which is connected to the cab paint bone needs to get done. I am doing something to the cab top (Classified) and something to the cab right front (Classified) which requires me to weld in some fabbed up hard points, so those (New) bones will need to be added before the paint bone is connected to the cab bone.

Of course the same paint bone is connected to bed bone, so those bones need to be properly connected before the bed bone is reconnected to the frame bone. At that time the fuel filler neck and tailgate bones will get reconnected.

And

That

is

how

you

install

a new front suspension!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #311 on:** October 07, 2014, 06:48:16 PM »

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cudakidd53 View Post
Prediction of Don's cab projects:

Right front- snorkel intake prep.

Rest of cab- Either Roof Rack or exit hatch/gun turret option.

Spooky!

Right pillar: hard point for 6" snorkel tube

Roof: 4 hard points for roof rack mount, R/F for rack plus top capture for snorkel

Flyin6 · « **Reply #312 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:47:22 PM »

Let's 1. Get some stuff built, and 2 Post it up with poor quality pictures

With me?

I had to trash the old lap top...It died!

The new one has that abortion called Windows 8

I hate it

Just discovered Microsoft removed their handy little office photo manager tool.
It was a great little program I used to crop the raw stuff so you couldn't see my hairy toes and stuff like that

I could also adjust the lighting so the pictures looked more natural.

None of that is present for duty

So here goes anyway

Today, the focus was on more rust processing so I can get that cab back in place.

Here's what I started with:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #313 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:48:38 PM »

I reduced a wire cup to stubble while doing the frame and the bottom of the cab
It turned out OK, and no new rust was found!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #314 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:50:15 PM »

I pulled out the always reliable rust converter. I discovered it will also convert a dog, that is if the dog holds still long enough. Haven't tried it on a cat yet!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #315 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:51:21 PM »

The frame top and the underside of the cab simply got a heavy coat of rubberized undercoating. The frame would be painted like the rest of the frame with the Blitz black

Flyin6 · « **Reply #316 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:52:33 PM »

I had already prepped the cowl area, so that got coated with undercoating since it is hidden and can not be seen. I wanted a lifetime of protection on all of that area:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #317 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:54:04 PM »

The underside of the cab:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #318 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:55:23 PM »

The cab bones were connected to the door hinge bones it would seem.
The drivers door had some droop from an elongated hole in the hinges. Since I needed to get into that area, I decided to pull the door and install new bushings and pins

Flyin6 · « **Reply #319 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:56:08 PM »

The old pins were in pretty good condition, but I opted for new ones anyway

Flyin6 · « **Reply #320 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:57:07 PM »

With the door off the truck, it is a simple matter to drill the pin holes out to .50" and install the new bushings

Flyin6 · « **Reply #321 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:58:26 PM »

The new 1/2" drill went through the hinge steel like a hot knife through butter

Flyin6 · « **Reply #322 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:59:37 PM »

The new bushings slide right in

Flyin6 · « **Reply #323 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:47:48 PM »

With the door pulled, it is a good time to do all the recess detailed painting before putting it back on

First was a lot of sanding and degreasing

Flyin6 · « **Reply #324 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:48:32 PM »

Gillespie paints specialized in historical military paints. I chose a WW2 OD green in synthetic enamel. They will sell gallons or load some of the same paint up in spray rattle cans perfect for a job like this:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #325 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:49:32 PM »

The first of three coats:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #326 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:50:16 PM »

And still wet after the third coat

Flyin6 · « **Reply #327 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:51:52 PM »

Well I coated myself again today with various products, and even managed to get some of it on the truck.

First a closer look at the door we painted yestertag

Here's what happened:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #328 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:52:32 PM »

The paint turned out smooth, but it scratches very easily. I might have to bite the bullet and add some hardener. That will unfortunately add some gloss...

Since I have a new temporary work bench in the shape of a door, I got to work, working on things on top of it

Here's the body mounts getting sorted for installation

Flyin6 · « **Reply #329 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:53:23 PM »

Since there are poly bushings, I coated all wear surfaces with the special poly grease to prevent squeaking, then they were set in place

Flyin6 · « **Reply #330 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:54:22 PM »

Then with the body lowered back into place, the bolts were tightened down, but not snugged up yet

Flyin6 · « **Reply #331 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:55:00 PM »

Next up, it was time to paint the door jamb.

It was taped off, scuffed off and cleaned

Flyin6 · « **Reply #332 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:55:43 PM »

There were a few areas of bare metal that needed some primer

Flyin6 · « **Reply #333 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:56:41 PM »

Then came 3 coats of color

Flyin6 · « **Reply #334 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:57:24 PM »

While that was drying, the opposite side was unbolted and jacked into position

Flyin6 · « **Reply #335 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:58:23 PM »

The rust, which I could not get to before was little more than some surface scale

Flyin6 · « **Reply #336 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:05:36 PM »

With a brand new cup wire wheel in hand, the grinder made quick work of the bad stuff and had the frame shining like new

Flyin6 · « **Reply #337 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:08:07 PM »

Rust converter:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #338 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:09:18 PM »

Then just like the other side, on went the paint and undercoating

Flyin6 · « **Reply #339 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:10:05 PM »

If you're wondering about that transmission...It is coming out to get the full treatment. I see no sense in cleaning it all up right now when it is going to be overhauled, built and painted. Before the truck rolls again, it and the transfer case will be refreshed.

So here is the SOB (State of the build) tonight, the end of build day 100

Flyin6 · « **Reply #340 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:11:15 PM »

Kicked the can down the road a bit farther today.

The focus is on getting the cab done so I can reinstall the bed and put that one in the finished column.

The door is dry enough to reinstall. Too bad, it made a pretty good work bench

Flyin6 · « **Reply #341 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:12:06 PM »

Ran across this early on. One of the body mount bolts was buggered up.

Not sure what thread it was, but I guessed 1/2-20

Flyin6 · « **Reply #342 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:13:21 PM »

So I tapped the nut in the body and ran a die down the thread...It was not 1/2-20, but it was when I finished!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #343 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:14:13 PM »

With that done, I greased up the poly bushings and reinstalled them, lowering the cab back down for good

Flyin6 · « **Reply #344 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:15:09 PM »

Then I rehung that door all by my lonesome.
Well if the truth be told, I got some help from my trash can. It turned out to be the perfect height to temporarily hold stuff up while I wiggled and fished and giggled those bushings and pins back into place.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #345 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:19:24 PM »

The force was with me and I had been living right apparently because all that worked out! I roughly set the hinge position and darned if it didn't fall into just about the perfect position.
With no slop at all in the door, the striker pin needed to get replaced

Flyin6 · « **Reply #346 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:22:26 PM »

I needed another work bench so I grabbed one from the right side:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #347 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:23:01 PM »

I yanked the old felts out of it in prep for sanding

Flyin6 · « **Reply #348 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:23:59 PM »

Setting up the new work bench created a big hole in the right side of the truck!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #349 on:** October 09, 2014, 07:24:43 PM »

started the sanding and managed to get the door done before time ran out and I turned back into a pumpkin!