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Offline wyorunner

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74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« on: May 17, 2019, 12:12:04 PM »
So I started a build thread on this years ago, and well I’m still building.

Couple of yous have asked to see the work so I guess I should put something together.

We started this year and the work pretty heavily in January and have been putting hours in on it every day. I’m slow, not very good at this stuff and learning as I go, and it’s a dodge, which means everything is more difficult to source or make.

This is the interior in January of 2019 and kind of where we started... again.


At this point it would start and move but the brakes were at max pressure because the original booster on the 74 was set up for drum drum compared to the 92 axles that are on it which are drum rotor.

The floor was shot and needed to be replaced. It didn’t and still doesn’t have a windshield. The top roof panel was not fully attached, there was a hole in the fire wall where the original heater core and blower motor were. Most of that has been solved.


Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2019, 12:25:45 PM »
So I started a build thread on this years ago, and well I’m still building.

Couple of yous have asked to see the work so I guess I should put something together.

We started this year and the work pretty heavily in January and have been putting hours in on it every day. I’m slow, not very good at this stuff and learning as I go, and it’s a dodge, which means everything is more difficult to source or make.

This is the interior in January of 2019 and kind of where we started... again.


At this point it would start and move but the brakes were at max pressure because the original booster on the 74 was set up for drum drum compared to the 92 axles that are on it which are drum rotor.

The floor was shot and needed to be replaced. It didn’t and still doesn’t have a windshield. The top roof panel was not fully attached, there was a hole in the fire wall where the original heater core and blower motor were. Most of that has been solved.
Love it.  Keep it coming.


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Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2019, 12:29:50 PM »
So looking through my photos, in late January I began attacking the floor. It was TERRIBLY patched and sealed with caulking and spray foam.

This is what I started with.



Passenger feet area that was covered with a replacement floor panel.



The bottom side of the replacement panels after I drilled the rivets out and removed them.



This is what was used to cover all the rust the PO cut out of the floor. These panels came from other parts of the truck body, such as decent metal in the bed or the fenders.




The holes..




Offline Flyin6

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2019, 01:01:55 PM »
Finally...We get to see this thing in some detail!
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Offline stlaser

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #4 on: May 17, 2019, 05:57:00 PM »
Lol, Turner I didn’t realize you never made an official build thread....  :rolleyes:

Between pics you sent me and I guess random posting’s I thought there was one.  :facepalm:
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2019, 08:29:47 PM »
Lol, Turner I didn’t realize you never made an official build thread....  :rolleyes:

Between pics you sent me and I guess random posting’s I thought there was one.  :facepalm:

LOL there is now!!!

Offline wyorunner

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74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2019, 10:14:57 PM »
Lets try this post again!

After I found all the holes noticed that the cab floor was sitting on the frame the only thing to do of course was to remove the whole floor and replace it.

The floor is originally installed in 3 sections plus the dog house over the stick. I started out by removing the passenger floor panel. I used a drill at first, to remove the spot welds. I also used a 1/2" belt grinder (harbor freight electric jamma), which I would say this is probably the best method....IF you can find all the spot welds. After the drill and belt sander, I turned to the grinder... Then the finals that I missed a big fat hammer and a big chisel from lowes I simply smashed the welds and ripped the steel apart... I do not advise doing this method as it can go sideways REAL FAST and ruin lots of metal you will need to reuse.

Once the passenger floor was gone I moved to driver. Then the mid section. The rear section was left intact as it was 95% healthy.

After the floor was removed I cleaned the rails and painted them with rust converter. Which I have read is an ok primer for another primer.. It turns black after dried.


Before removal of any floor.


Drivers floor holes


Some spot welds drilled, front piece of tunnel which I call the doghouse has been removed.



This is the mid section of floor board. You can see all the shiny metal that was hit with the angel grinder in order to get it out.



This is with the floor removed, pre grind of spot weld leftovers, pre clean up, pre rust converter... the mess underneath was unreal.



All rails cleaned up and coated with rust converter... notice how they’re black instead of reddish brown.



These next two pictures are the removal of the passenger floor pan.
« Last Edit: May 18, 2019, 12:16:54 AM by wyorunner »

Offline wyorunner

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74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #7 on: May 18, 2019, 12:36:38 AM »
As you can see above I got the floor removed and prepped for new steel. In thinking about installing new panels I didn't like the idea of seams. I still ended up with more seams than I would have preferred, but when you don't have the equipment, and the people who do can't create what you need, you adjust for fire and make it work.

So I had my metal shop sheer and break a piece of steel, flat it would be 52" by 77". Broken it is 52" (the measurement from back to front) by 68" (width of the cab). The floor board was broken 8 times, which would form the floor board for the most part. I had them make it out of 14 gauge which I believe (i'm not a metallurgist) to be plenty strong enough without cross beam support.

Along with the big piece of steel I reused some portions of the new floor pans the PO purchased and riveted in.

I didn't take enough pictures but we actually glued all of the steel in before being stitch welded in.

I started by gluing the two small sections of front floor pan in. Once that was stitched in and cured, wife and I glued and stitched the big piece in.

Now, the big piece didn't just fit, it took some love to fit. By love I mean an hour or two of hammer blows, plus some cutting and grinding with the angle grinder. Sadly I do not have enough pictures to show all of this but I had to shape the front edges of the floor, and cut/grind the entire length of the edges. SO MUCH METAL MESS!!!

This is all the metal powder from removal and new floor prep.



Here is the floor just after getting it home.



Initial test fit. Looking at it through the firewall.



I degreased with naphtha, slightly roughedthe whole surface with a sanding disc, cleaned again, primed with krylon self etch, top coated with thinned rustoleum.



The glue I used. Tough stuff and certainly will bond two panels. I needed three tubes but ended up only using two, one on the front sections of floor pan, and one for the rest of it. I had a third but it was WAY past serviceable goo, and so we made due with two.




With the heaters having the garage at 72degrees, wife and I wiggled the floor in, i glued it, and we clamped it down, let it cure over night.



Finished product less one small section of trans tunnel.



Here is the chunks I cut out from the front floor pans that PO laid on top of the rust. They too were glued in, I actually started with them.



You can my stainless steel piece I added to the finish up the tunnel.



Body bolt holes drilled.



All the seams and poor welds have been covered with a self leveling sealer by SEM.

« Last Edit: May 18, 2019, 12:00:12 PM by wyorunner »

Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #8 on: May 18, 2019, 12:41:35 AM »
So, all the while of working on the floor, I was working on everything else that needed attention. Such as cleaning the gutters of caulk, finding the roof is not actually attached in places, finding the crank to need a speedi sleeve, replacing the rear main, stretching rear main housing bolts and replacing, sending torque converter to Hughes Performance in Phoenix to be rebuilt, installing a Goerend flex plate at the recommendation of a man much smarter than I, painting and installing the transmission and t-case, installing twin sticks on the t-case, embroidering beer coozies and hats for folks, having rust repaired in a door, closing up the firewall, installing hydroboost..... and i know more but forget, pictures to follow....

Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #9 on: May 18, 2019, 12:24:31 PM »
Here are some pictures of a bit of everything while the main theme of flooring was happening.

Overall the truck is going to be blue and grey. Interior and exterior.



Primed.



Painted!!

 
Our Goerend billet flex plate.



Ruint rear end of crank shaft.



So a short word on torque converters.... if you have them they are worth gold. All the shops I looked at charge a 1000$ core charge that if you don’t mail yours in to be rebuilt you get to pay for!!! I mailed mine to Phoenix and they rebuilt it and mailed it back, for 549 I think.

So if you have a 46/47rh/re torque converter laying around don’t throw it away!!



Heater core hole...


Hole no more!


Oops....

Offline Flyin6

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #10 on: May 18, 2019, 01:46:11 PM »
This is a bit (well, lots) more extensive than what I was envisioning.

Impressive so far
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Offline stlaser

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #11 on: May 18, 2019, 04:46:24 PM »
This is a bit (well, lots) more extensive than what I was envisioning.

Impressive so far

I said same thing, he’s really been steaming along on this project.  :likebutton:
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline Flyin6

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #12 on: May 18, 2019, 10:09:53 PM »
This is a bit (well, lots) more extensive than what I was envisioning.

Impressive so far

I said same thing, he’s really been steaming along on this project.  :likebutton:
And resurrecting an old classic truck!

I'm glad folks are taking an interest in the old square bodies.
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Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #13 on: May 18, 2019, 11:41:13 PM »
This is a bit (well, lots) more extensive than what I was envisioning.

Impressive so far

I said same thing, he’s really been steaming along on this project.  :likebutton:
And resurrecting an old classic truck!

I'm glad folks are taking an interest in the old square bodies.

So this rebuild, of which I will have removed every single bolt of the 74, many of the 92, I may in the end have around 25k in it, after upholstery. But it will have all the features of a new truck and even heated seats in the back seat. So a solid truck that will do anything I ask of it for less than a third of the equivalent today’s truck... no brainer. However I’m not sure i consider it a square body... it’s rounder than most, simply because that was the 70s bodies!

Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #14 on: May 19, 2019, 12:24:35 AM »
I didn’t really show that the body was removed from the frame and I built a cradle for it in the garage. While the poor frame and engine endured the snow!

So during the flooring job whilst in a cradle I did some basic things to the transmission and transfer case. Such as the twin sticks, whatever the seal is in the front of the transmission, of course the rear main, and housing, broke the dip stick tube and replaced that, new frost plugs, new camshaft plug.... and can’t remember... so pictures

These are the buckets we found for it, we removed the arms. May put one back on but will decide when it’s at the upholstery shop. This is where it rested while I worked on the cab.



The empty hole.... broken bolt :( got er fixed of course.



Painted the transmission adapter plate.



Installed plate and goerend flexplate.



Input shaft seal? I replaced it..



The tool I made to install the above seal.




Found this frost plug inside the block while replacing them.



Can you see the difference? I replaced all of these rear main seal housing bolts.


Offline wyorunner

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74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #15 on: May 19, 2019, 12:59:04 AM »
Ok, so twin sticking a t-case isn’t real difficult. I chose to go to twins simply because I had to remove the original trans mounted shifter after my floor repair. My tunnel is much smaller, 8” on top and about 12” on the bottom, than the factory set up. And the original idea of trans mounted transfer case shifter was guaranteed to hit the tunnel. This truck won’t see hard core wheeling but maybe once or twice so it wasn’t aimed towards that, just ease of use is why.

JB fabrication out of Oregon makes some real nice stuff, so I picked up a buggy kit for a dodge/Chevy NP205 t-case.

This will sit on the tunnel, and most likely be covered by a box with either carpet or some leather.



This adapter has to be removed first in order to remove the factory shift rails.



I didn’t take pictures of the bolts, but they hold the detent ball and spring in, in the hole you can see underneath the ball here.



There’s of course two rails, which means two  detent springs and balls, and bolt to hold those in. Here I have both detent balls removed. You can see the second hole just behind my finger.



To get each rail out you have to drive out a roll pin which you can see in the light of my flash light in the hole.



Here I got the rear rail in.



If you go to do this, please note, the rails need to both be in neutral or else the front (left rail in above pics) will not come out. They have a horizontal detent ball holding them in. I found this out the hard way and reached out to swbhobie, as he had just done his tcase.


The jb fab kit comes with new detent springs and balls, and we opted for the adjustable detent bolts. Quality stuff from that place.



Here is the rails all finished up.



This is the bracket that bolts to the case, and holds the shift cables. I painted it rather than leaving it bare stainless..



Here it is installed in the frame. I removed the exhaust so it all went in easier and then adjusted it to fit better!!

« Last Edit: May 19, 2019, 01:00:50 AM by wyorunner »

Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #16 on: May 19, 2019, 01:42:53 AM »
That’s a good bit of progress.  Nice to see some color other than tractor orange


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Offline swbhobie16

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #17 on: May 19, 2019, 08:26:25 AM »
that twin stick setup looks familiar..  :grin:

Offline wyorunner

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74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #18 on: May 19, 2019, 05:17:54 PM »
While the cab and frame were in separate locations I addressed the firewall. I filled in the holes that wouldn't be getting reused, cleaned the fire wall to bare metal, then applied some layers of paint product. We have a paint and body supply shop in SVC little family owned shop, great service decent prices so I got my paint from them. Using a brand called Nason or maybe Axalta. Not sure which company owns the other.

I used a Direct to metal primer, epoxy primer over that, then the blue, then a clear. Each one got two or so sprays.

Layers one and two materials.



Pre clean.



Cleaned.



Holes filled.




DTM primer.



Epoxy primer/sealer.



Concord blue topcoat and clear.







The cheap siphon spray gun I used!! I don’t have very big compressor so this is basically all I can operate. Did the job pretty well I think.

« Last Edit: May 19, 2019, 05:18:55 PM by wyorunner »

Offline stlaser

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #19 on: May 19, 2019, 05:23:45 PM »
No heater or ac?
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #20 on: May 19, 2019, 07:26:02 PM »
No heater or ac?

Both, but it’s a self contained unit that only needs four holes about an inch in diameter.



That will be mounted to the fire wall, and it gets plumbed to the unit inside under the dash.

We got the largest unit that vintage air sells. Magnum iv.

Offline stlaser

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #21 on: May 19, 2019, 07:59:27 PM »
VA, nice!  :likebutton:
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline wyorunner

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74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #22 on: May 19, 2019, 08:58:56 PM »
At this point in our build (not today but in the timeline from above), I am ready to join the frame and cab. And so with some serious effort from a lever on the drum I rolled the frame back in the garage and under the cab.

Now, in all the work with a hammer, grinder and what have you in installing the floor I had a minor whoops that only showed itself when I went to bolt the cab to the frame...

While working on the floor I separated the passenger side front cab mount from the cab on accident, I thought I had it back in the proper place but as things would have it I did not. With some of the stuff I had laying around I found that the front passenger corner was a 1/4” lower than the rest of the mounts.

I also found that my new transmission tunnel was a smidge too low and rested on the bell housing of the transmission. So I needed a solution for two minor problems... enter a custom Ultra High Molecular weight Polyethylene (read dense plastic) body lift. Ran one on our 4runner for almost 10 years.

So the internet is an amazing thing and I found a stick of UHMWPE in the proper diameter. This stick I then cut into 5 x 1” discs and 1 x 3/4” disc. Which then solved both of my oops’.









So this body lift of course created a minor issue of its own, factory bolts were not long enough. So I attempted to make my own, and half succeeded. Then I paid a “machine shop” to make four for me. These are the ones I made compared to the factory bolt.



The cab is currently bolted on with two of the ones I made and two the machine shop made.



One of my failed attempts at making a bolt.



I will say, if this truck has taught me anything.... it is that I should open an odd parts machine shop, I feel like there’s a huge need.

Here are the bolts I paid a stupid amount to have made.

« Last Edit: May 19, 2019, 09:03:33 PM by wyorunner »

Offline stlaser

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #23 on: May 19, 2019, 09:08:16 PM »
Technically, we all just need to be neighbors and between the 20-30 of us regulars we would have all aspects covered!  :likebutton:

I vote for Idaho, next to Ken pretty sure with that many of us we could permanently lose his gf too!
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #24 on: May 19, 2019, 10:49:57 PM »
Technically, we all just need to be neighbors and between the 20-30 of us regulars we would have all aspects covered!  :likebutton:

I vote for Idaho, next to Ken pretty sure with that many of us we could permanently lose his gf too!

There are so many things that would come from this place if we lived within 20miles of each other. And Kens horrid terrible no good very bad disgrace to humankind GF, would stand NO chance. Especially when he decide she was exactly that!!!!

Only problem I see, is my OIC has a few more years before she hits 20 and can pop smoke. But I say that now, and it’ll change in a year when she is blessed with pinning on MSG. She pins that were in it for the duration  of available time.

Offline wyorunner

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74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #25 on: May 19, 2019, 11:19:04 PM »
Ok, so another thing I had to fix on our crew cab was the roof. Not sure where exactly in the line of completion this lies but it was kind of in many times soooooo let’s cover it!

Simply put, the PO removed the roof flasher and spot light and had to repair the holes. While it was done, it was done poorly. Which made more fun times for me

Ultimately there were four holes of 1/2” to 3/4” in diameter that needed to be closed up, and all the previous warping.... unwarped.

So I started this piece of our puzzle by using some aircraft paint remover on the roof. Then took my noisy arm shaker of a favorite tool out and cleaned up the poor weld repair job... ie I ground the tar out of the roof and opened the original holes the military put in our roof decades ago.  Now, pictures!!!





You can see three bondo spots here.



Here you can see all four patches with bondo removed. You can also kind of see the warpage.



Closer detail of some of the previous repairs.



Here I have began peeling the patch.



The beginning of warpage removal.









You can see the holes and more of our studs for warpage removal.



During the pulling.



This is where we chose to call acceptable. I’ll skim it with bondo, but it will still not be perfectly shaped. I never aimed to build a show truck, because at this point I’m not able to do that.... still learning.... with no teacher.



At a distance view, as well as close to where the truck currently sits.

« Last Edit: May 19, 2019, 11:19:35 PM by wyorunner »

Offline JR

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #26 on: May 19, 2019, 11:24:35 PM »
Is that the HF stud gun you are using? Mine is OK but grabbing the studs is a chore.
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Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #27 on: May 19, 2019, 11:50:49 PM »
Is that the HF stud gun you are using? Mine is OK but grabbing the studs is a chore.

JR, it is indeed. I tend to buy single use possibly two time use tools from harbor fraught. It did a great job. That being said, the spot welder they have, I tried that. It was as about as good as throwing a turd onto the steel expecting it to join the two.... GARBAGE!

I think in a soonish time frame we’re going to have a pile of tools needing a new home as our move at the end of the year is looking to be overseas.

Offline cruizng

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #28 on: May 20, 2019, 11:17:52 AM »
Technically, we all just need to be neighbors and between the 20-30 of us regulars we would have all aspects covered!  :likebutton:

I vote for Idaho, next to Ken pretty sure with that many of us we could permanently lose his gf too!
Great work on the project. Thanks for posting it up. Challenges and all.

I agree with ^^^. That is as long as we can encourage Ken to lose H.


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Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #29 on: May 20, 2019, 04:17:33 PM »
A problem with older dodge bodies like this and why the floors are rusted into nothing, is that the seam sealer at the factory was hit or miss on the quality. Most of the time it was a miss, and it simply allowed water in through the A pillar and it would sit on the floor board.

Over the years people address it, but I’m guessing the solution it just add more, instead of clean, repair, seal. Thus just encapsulating the problem rather than fixing it.

So I thought I’d try to fix it. First I removed all of the old dried out stuff, the caulking that was on top of that, any paint, rust down to bare steel.

Then rejoined the several spots where the roof had become detached by putting some simple spot welds down.

After it was all together again, I laid down a couple tubes of self leveling seam sealer, with some heavy bodied seam sealer on the verticals.





Under side of the gutter also got cleaned and re sealed. This is pre clean.



Driver side under the gutter nastiness.



Again driver side, but this is the gutter. You can see the roof panel is not fully connected.
This is one of the spots I had to add some weld to.



This is the front gutter after I filled it with self leveling.



This is the 2k stuff I used. The mix tubes work great, just simply squeeze it like a caulking gun and it comes out properly mixed!!!




Offline Flyin6

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #30 on: May 20, 2019, 10:21:18 PM »
Man, you are getting into the bones of this thing

Going to be a very nice truck when you get done.
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Offline KensAuto

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #31 on: May 20, 2019, 10:46:52 PM »
Wow, what a project. 

That VA a/c setup is about twice as good as factory.  Good choice.
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Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #32 on: May 21, 2019, 12:21:05 AM »
Wow, what a project. 

That VA a/c setup is about twice as good as factory.  Good choice.

Glad to hear this. Do you have the ability to
crimp AC lines? That is the one piece of the AC puzzle I don’t want to buy the tool for it’s way too expensive for a one time use thing.

Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #33 on: May 21, 2019, 12:24:45 AM »
Man, you are getting into the bones of this thing

Going to be a very nice truck when you get done.

Chief, so far all of the above is past work. I am currently slacking off on it a smidge, but I need to plumb the passenger rear brake caliper and bleed the brakes, wire it all, have windshield installed and reassemble the interior and the truck will be on the road. Should have had it done but I’ve been gone 4.5 out of the last six weeks.

Offline JR

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #34 on: May 21, 2019, 12:31:05 AM »
Nice work. I take it the drip rails now drip vs channeling the water away?
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Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #35 on: May 21, 2019, 10:10:36 AM »
So moving along with things needing to be addressed, let me first address some individuals, Shawn stlaser owner of GLO for a great product and his help with odd things like a Dana 70. Wilsonphil for covering down on my lack of Cummins knowledge and simply just helping with all things dodge. And a HUGE shout out to swbhobie16, you guys have seen his work and will get to see more, but dang he has just been a blessing of help. So thank you to you all for the help with this project, it is appreciated more than you know.

Now, let’s talk about brakes. Originally my 92 axles were Dana70 drum in the rear, and Dana 60 caliper rotor up front. It was also driven by a simple vacuum brake booster. Being we are intending this truck to fill the role of what our 2007 duramax did, we are trying to upgrade things as best our ability allows.

The booster on the 74 was also set up for drum/drum axles. Which uses a different amount of residual pressure than the 92 booster, as well as the 99 hydro boost system that got installed. So the brakes really never worked after swapping axles.

To solve and improve the braking system issues, I installed a hydroboost and power steering pump off a 99 Dodge Ram 2500.

Then after that install I installed Shawn’s rear disc conversion plates with ‘77 k2500 calipers, rotors, pads, and brake lines.

I’m going to break the pictures up into two posts with the hydroboost in this one. The install of the hydroboost did not come without weird issues. I originally purchased a new booster, master cylinder, and pump. Well come to find out, there is a spacer that you must have in order to mount the master cylinder onto the hydroboost unit. Pump was installed without issue.

The new boost unit, notice anything wrong with it?



Dirty vac pump.



Clean!



Painted!!!!


Even though I bought the new stuff, I ended up buying this complete setup off eBay as well. Considering I didn’t have the spacer that is needed.



Here’s the spacer that makes the booster and master cylinder fit. If you don’t have this spacer the two will not bolt up for several reasons. Wrong direction of things, bolt width is off, the rod would be too long.



Early attempts to seal the hole in the firewall ended like this... no good at all.



I also had to have lines made from the pump to booster to steering box. But I can’t get the pictures of my mock ups to work.


Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #36 on: May 21, 2019, 10:11:58 AM »
Nice work. I take it the drip rails now drip vs channeling the water away?

Don’t know, hasn’t been in water yet. Should still work close to factory.

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #37 on: May 21, 2019, 11:07:09 AM »
Just teasing you!
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Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #38 on: May 21, 2019, 12:10:59 PM »
Now onto the rear disc conversion. For starters if you own a Dana 70, prepare for more than a bolt on situation. Spacers or bracket relocation is needed.

Thanks again to Shawn for making a great product.

You can see the bracket hanging, it is painted the same as the diff cover.



To start you need to remove the eight bolts that hold the axle shaft in, slide it out, and then remove the spindle nut. Some have two nuts and a locking type washer, this one had a single nylon locking spindle nut.



Your outer hub bearing should come out without issue.



Then slide the hub and drum off and drive out the lug studs. Because you’ll be reusing your hub.



Hub lifts right off.



There are four bolts holding the brake pad mount on, remove those and your bracket slides off and can be discarded to your scrap pile.



At this point things started to get really interesting for me. The PO of the donor truck which my driveline came off of swapped in larger lug studs. I wanted uniformity so I wanted to go back to the size that came on the truck. But it wasn’t as simple as buying factory lugs because the lug stud holes in the hubs had been opened up.

So I needed to find a stud with a big enough and long enough shoulder to keep the rotor on the hub.

It took a few tries to find the right one, but eventually I did. Here is a comparison of what was in the drums to what needed to be installed in my rotors.



Then the real fun began, trying to install the studs into the rotors and hubs, the k2500 stud holes were too small.
 
I ruined two rotors even after changing studs. Then finally listens to people wiser than I and bored out the stud holes so the studs ONLY made contact with the hub.



So now you have your hub and rotors joined.

I then had my rotors faced to put a good surface on them.



I also replaced my out bearings because the races had a gash in them.



Now your at the point of bolting on your bracket and re installing your newly mated rotor and hub.... or so you think

This is where everything sits when bolted on, on a Dana 70. Obviously it won’t work.



So I reached out to Shawn for some schooling! After learning occurred I began measuring and found I would need spacers of about 1.75”. So I pondered, and asked about relocating the bracket.... I chose to relocate the bracket.


Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #39 on: May 21, 2019, 12:23:45 PM »
So I put the pads in the caliper bolted it to the disc conversion bracket from GLO and rested it on there to get an idea.



You can see although it’s not straight the gap is significant to where the disc conversion bracket would normally bolt to.


When the disc conversion bracket (DCB) was straight this is the distance between factory mount on axle tube and the DCB.



I then began making a bracket.... by calling my local steel supply and having them brake me som 6”x6” 3/8” thick plate. Then they took it to a machine shop and had the center hole of 3” waterjetted into it... the tube diameter is actually something like 3.02 so I had to open it up a bit more.

Freshly picked up.



Opened up a bit with an end mill but on my drill press.



And they fit!



Drilled some bolt holes and welded them in place.



I trimmed up both sides, cleaned everything up with a wire wheel and painted them. Here they are primed.



Then I installed it all.




Offline JR

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #40 on: May 21, 2019, 02:54:35 PM »
Nice quick fab work. I was almost thinking alum spacer on the stock mount.

Don't drop something on those toes!
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Offline stlaser

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #41 on: May 21, 2019, 07:31:08 PM »
Technically we have bolt on options for some Dana 70’s, just not yours Turner!  :popcorn:
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #42 on: May 21, 2019, 08:31:43 PM »
Technically we have bolt on options for some Dana 70’s, just not yours Turner!  :popcorn:

Yea I recall talking to you about that. That’s ok this worked out well.

Now I’m just trying to figure out why the front brakes are receiving what appears to be max pressure while the rear doesn’t seem to be receiving any.

I know I need to install the proportioning valve to adjust the amount to the rear but I figured I’d be able to get it close.

So what we’re working with for everyone who reads this, 1999 Dodge 2500 Cummins powered hydroboost and master cylinder, 1992 Dodge W250 front calipers, 1977 K2500 front calipers (in the rear).

This is happening while the engine is not running so I don’t know if having the hydroboost “on” would make a difference.

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #43 on: May 21, 2019, 09:25:35 PM »
Technically we have bolt on options for some Dana 70’s, just not yours Turner!  :popcorn:

Likely excuse!!!!

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #44 on: May 21, 2019, 09:37:34 PM »
And what did you do with the original vacuum pump setup that was on your 93?

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #45 on: May 21, 2019, 09:48:36 PM »
Is that hydro boost upside down?
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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #46 on: May 21, 2019, 10:27:08 PM »
This is a bit (well, lots) more extensive than what I was envisioning.

Impressive so far

In some ways I think it was less of a headache than I dealt with and turned out much better.

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #47 on: May 21, 2019, 10:38:27 PM »
A problem with older dodge bodies like this and why the floors are rusted into nothing, is that the seam sealer at the factory was hit or miss on the quality. Most of the time it was a miss, and it simply allowed water in through the A pillar and it would sit on the floor board.

Over the years people address it, but I’m guessing the solution it just add more, instead of clean, repair, seal. Thus just encapsulating the problem rather than fixing it.

So I thought I’d try to fix it. First I removed all of the old dried out stuff, the caulking that was on top of that, any paint, rust down to bare steel.

Then rejoined the several spots where the roof had become detached by putting some simple spot welds down.

After it was all together again, I laid down a couple tubes of self leveling seam sealer, with some heavy bodied seam sealer on the verticals.





Under side of the gutter also got cleaned and re sealed. This is pre clean.



Driver side under the gutter nastiness.



Again driver side, but this is the gutter. You can see the roof panel is not fully connected.
This is one of the spots I had to add some weld to.



This is the front gutter after I filled it with self leveling.



This is the 2k stuff I used. The mix tubes work great, just simply squeeze it like a caulking gun and it comes out properly mixed!!!


I wonder if this could be my issue too. I parked mine outside andcwe got some rain.  I went to get some dirt for the garden and noticed a small puddle on the passenger floor. I'm glad I haven't put the floor insulation and rubber mat in yet.

I'll have to give this a look.

Is it the whole gutter, or just above the windshield that will leak on to the floor?  Someone installed a visor on my truck and I haven't removed it yet :undecided:

Thanks a bunch for posting this!  Your truck is going to be awesome!
« Last Edit: May 21, 2019, 10:44:10 PM by Dfarm01 »

Offline wyorunner

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Re: 74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #48 on: May 21, 2019, 10:45:01 PM »
Is that hydro boost upside down?

Not quite, but yes I originally mounted it 90 degrees off... oops.

Offline wyorunner

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74 w200 cummins crew cab build
« Reply #49 on: May 21, 2019, 10:48:44 PM »
A problem with older dodge bodies like this and why the floors are rusted into nothing, is that the seam sealer at the factory was hit or miss on the quality. Most of the time it was a miss, and it simply allowed water in through the A pillar and it would sit on the floor board.

Over the years people address it, but I’m guessing the solution it just add more, instead of clean, repair, seal. Thus just encapsulating the problem rather than fixing it.

So I thought I’d try to fix it. First I removed all of the old dried out stuff, the caulking that was on top of that, any paint, rust down to bare steel.

Then rejoined the several spots where the roof had become detached by putting some simple spot welds down.

After it was all together again, I laid down a couple tubes of self leveling seam sealer, with some heavy bodied seam sealer on the verticals.





Under side of the gutter also got cleaned and re sealed. This is pre clean.



Driver side under the gutter nastiness.



Again driver side, but this is the gutter. You can see the roof panel is not fully connected.
This is one of the spots I had to add some weld to.



This is the front gutter after I filled it with self leveling.



This is the 2k stuff I used. The mix tubes work great, just simply squeeze it like a caulking gun and it comes out properly mixed!!!


I wonder if this could be my issue too. I parked mine outside andcwe got some rain.  I went to get some dirt for the garden and noticed a small puddle on the passenger floor. I'm glad I haven't put the floor insulation and rubber mat in yet.

I'll have to give this a look.

Is it the whole gutter, or just above the windshield that will leak on to the floor?  Someone installed a visor on my truck and I haven't removed it yet :undecided:

Thanks a bunch for posting this!  Your truck is going to be awesome!

I was once told to poke it with a screw driver.... you’ll find the soft spots. It could be anywhere on the front of the gutter. The sealer didn’t seal, and it weeps to the outside and down the inside of the A pillar.... it could also be coming from the cowel, as there is ducting to the sides that lead from there to the cab, one of mine was absolutely leaking as it is basically non existent. Did the best I could to repair it.

Does that make sense?

You can clean and repair the whole thing in a day if you wanted to. I just work like my mind flows, so everything happens at once.

« Last Edit: May 21, 2019, 10:53:11 PM by wyorunner »

 

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