2006-7 LBZ Rebuild-Motor, Trans, and[emoji47]

[JR]

Inflatable booth?

[Sammconn]

Inflatable booth?

Nah, one of those party tent things.
13 x 26 or there about.
Full sides and ends.

[Flyin6]

What's not to like about all this?

Great progress.

I don't mind body filler when used correctly, like it has been used here

Should be just fine.

[TexasRedNeck]

Wow, Sam.  No grass growing under your feet, sir.


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[JR]

Does grass grow up there?

Great work!!

[Sammconn]

Yeah I got great grass in the back yard.
Front a different story. Both get mowed and Mother Nature. But enough about the grass.

A small non update update.

Got the tent up and truck inside.
Noticed the cooling stack was close (read: touching) the rad. No fenders no nothing so yeah battery and gravity did their thing. Ratchet strap pulled it back out.

Then was time to pull the fuel tank.

The lines disconnected easily despite my fear of the rotten appearance.

And on the ground and out.

I then spent several hours scraping, wire brushing, flap wheeling, and vacuuming the frame.

Broke out the POR-15 prep stuff and did that.




And with a gazillion percent humidity I was not getting to paint last night.


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[Sammconn]

I refocused on the cab.


Stone chips…
Lots
And
Lots
Of
Them

Talked to my windshield guy. This trim is in the way.
It comes with new windshield. Whew.
Out with a razor knife and gone with the trim.


So once again full send with the sander.
Ground out the rust t as far as the 120 grit would take me.


Then coated the works with some sort of rust converter in a can.
Now to let stuff dry out.

FWIW, this isn’t hard.
Just hard to begin the full send on cutting/sanding etc.


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[Atkinsmatt]

Wow.  Great progress.

[stlaser]

Huge undertaking, nice work 

[Bigdave_185]

What about pulling that front glass? I imagine there is some rust under that.  And new seals for that sunroof might be nice?  If it’s even an option to buy these days


That rear end is gonna look killer!!


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[Flyin6]

Good golly man!
You sound like my kin!
A rusty cab corner somehow means the fuel tank is dropped and the windshield is coming out.
I'm keeping in mind that some of the interior has already been gutted
You're next to completely rebuilding this thing in a few weeks...!
Psycho!!!

[Sammconn]

What about pulling that front glass? I imagine there is some rust under that.  And new seals for that sunroof might be nice?  If it’s even an option to buy these days


That rear end is gonna look killer!!


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Pulling front glass destroys it for future use, at least all variants of removal I’m familiar with.

If my glass guy was coming before I needed to got south it would already be out. However, not my luck.

Now, if when he’s up and it’s nasty, I’ll likey do some quick metal surgery and then install the new glass.
Can always bodywork and paint after.

And heck, I know a guy that has the right paint and skills…


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[Sammconn]

Good golly man!
You sound like my kin!
A rusty cab corner somehow means the fuel tank is dropped and the windshield is coming out.
I'm keeping in mind that some of the interior has already been gutted
You're next to completely rebuilding this thing in a few weeks...!
Psycho!!!

Right…

To be fair the fuel tank drop at this point is twofold.

1 - gives me access to the frame rails to clean up and coat.
2 - was coming out regardless while the bed was off to swap in the 62 gallon S&B setting out back of the house currently.

The interior above the carpet is nearly completely gone you are correct.

I think you said stupid wrong, but I can accept psycho an an equivalent alternative.

Now if only I had more than twelve days to complete it…gonna be a hard push coming in the next week.


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[Sammconn]

So todays last night update.

It was raining most of the day.
The tent did it’s job, but with near 100% humidity, rain all day and no airflow, we’ll you guessed.

The tent was its own ecosystem and was about to rain. The entire roof was rain drops.

So I opened up a box fan and put it in a doorway as exhaust.

I then started the hour to sand the cab.
Well about four hours into that hour, I’d reached the point that I was happy-ish. Two spots need more filler, one I knew of, and one ding I didn’t. Could nearly sand it out, but why leave the dimple.

That’s tonight’s start point.

I began with a quick and dirty clean with winded to get the bull of the dust and sanding fines off. Then started the masking of doors and back window.



1/2” to 3/4” to 2” for papering.
Found I I have a ton or primer overspray on the windshield. Not sure how that happened.



At this point it was nearing zero dark stupid so time to hit the rack for a few hours.

Todays plan is to get it in primer so tomorrow I can sand it all flat again and add some code 59 metallic silver birch back on the cab and cover with some coats of clear.
Not sure there are enough hours to mask and spray today, but heck, lots of time to sleep once I’m gone.


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[Bigdave_185]

A fresh razor blade will make quick work of glass overspray. 


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[Sammconn]

Indeed.
Thanks for the reminder.
I did know that just forgot and would have scrubbed my finger off…


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[Sammconn]

Big step forward tonight.

Primer is on.
One drop of sweat…hope it doesn’t mess it up.
Not holding my breath tho. Likely will need to touch that spot up.


A proper masking job this time around.




And primer.






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[Bigdave_185]

Lookin good! Now to hand sand all of it lol


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[Sammconn]

Lookin good! Now to hand sand all of it lol


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I know right…not looking too forward to this.

The good news is it’s about 55 right now so nice and cool to do it.
It’s also raining, so no rush.
Can’t paint in the rain.

[oklawall]

And some people wonder why body work and paint are so high. They have never done it!

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[Sammconn]

Did a bunch of wet sandng hoping it was ready.
Nope.

Couple more spots requiring filler showed up.
Its on and curing.

Then reshoot a small batch of primer.
Read through all my data sheets.
Turns out only the paint needs 70+. That’s good news.
They all need 80% humidity or less.
I’m right at 80 this morning.
Will mix a tad extra hardner into the primer.

[JR]

You are ambitious!

[Sammconn]

So yesterday I finally got around to getting colour back on it.


And it looked good…





Until it didn’t…


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[Sammconn]

So this morning I took to going over it all again.

Had a few bugs that took paint off.
Also had some bonehead press a fingerprint in.
The paint had started to fire not was far form hardened.



Sanded out the smile. Shot primer again.


Fingerprint removed.


Reshot theee coats on the repairs and another full coat on the entire cab.

And three coats of clear.

It looks pretty darned good.




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[Sammconn]

Oh yeah,

While I was waiting on the paint to harden some before sanding it all out I worked on the hind end some.

And Dave…
It does look good!






Now for any of you who have used POR-15 you’ll understand the bi wheat move I took part in.

I should have had long sleeves too…

That mess goes clear to my elbows.

There ain’t no amount of any solvent that the skin can handle long enough to soften and remove this stuff…

I’ll have to wear it off. 


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[JR]

Been there, looked like that,,,,,,,,,,

Put a bug zapper in the tent?

[TexasRedNeck]

Yup. Gloves and long sleeves. Can’t help the face thing. Dunno?


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[stlaser]

Yeah, been there and done that & hate myself afterwards! 

[Flyin6]

Parts of your face are now completely waterproof!

Lucky you!

Truck is looking great!!!!

[Bigdave_185]

Try using a callus stone to scrub your hands

Something like this is what I use.

Maryton Foot Pumice Stone for Feet Hard Skin Callus Remover and Scrubber (Pack of 4) (Blue) https://a.co/d/77JOK09

Just like sand paper but works wonders on your hands and paint or epoxy


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[Sammconn]

Dave, read that somewhere too.
Don’t have one here, and none in town.

I did go try an hour soak and scotch brite…

From the POR site, once dry you have to wear it off…

[Sammconn]

Ok.
Been a slow go.
Lost one night to work.


Time to play what’s on this box Alex for $1500…

Look here. A new 62 gallon tank!


The new S&B tank dwarfs the OEM tiny thing.

It took a hold my beer moment but the tank got under the truck. Not sure why the instructions claim this to possibly new to be jacked. I needed 8-10” jacked to clear, and still needed to rotate it into position.


From there a pretty simple install, Jack into place and secure the two new tank straps.
Then a new cross brace for the front.

Fit was very good and clearances seem on all around.


With the now 6” or taller tank, S&B sends a new pickup and sending unit with this model.

Was an absolute bear to get the lock ring on, which is a good thing IMO.

All plumbed back in, and Nate, no crushed hoses.
Having the box off was a treat and possibly indication why so many have issues with pinched lines. There is NO room, like NONE to reach in or anything. The over crossmember vent connector almost had me want to remove the driveshaft.

Tucked up all nice and neat.
One more punch list item gone.


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[Bigdave_185]

All things you have off the truck now, I don’t think the four bolts for the driveline would have hurt

I want one of them monster tanks on my dually but taking the bed off seems extremely complicated with only one person at the house to help me lift it off.


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[JR]

Heck, I would do that option in a second if I didn't have 52 gal in there now.

New pickup, flush with frame and 10 more gallons!

[Sammconn]

Dave, the four bolts in he way were conducting a pivotal role in the hood my beer scenario.

The truck was precariously perched on an on edge 4x6” timber. The front was at max lift of my floor Jack amd the only thing holding the truck from rolling down the driveway was the driveshaft.

Now for the install, on your new dually.
Don’t be afraid. I had 17 years of mud, gunk, and whatever crud and corrosion we all saw.
Get a good set of Lisle fuel line disconnects and do it. The bed off just made access easy for me. On something newer I wouldn’t hesitate to leave the bed on.

I can’t wait to not have to stop for fuel all the time.


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[Nate]

Sam, did you put new rubber fuel hoses in with the new tank?

[Flyin6]

Dude, sorry, but you've definitely crossed over into fluid change territory! 

Does anyone else agree??? 

[Sammconn]

Dude, sorry, but you've definitely crossed over into fluid change territory! 

Does anyone else agree???

Guilty as charged…

 

[Flyin6]

Dude, sorry, but you've definitely crossed over into fluid change territory! 

Does anyone else agree???

Guilty as charged…

 

Hey, you're not supposed to shoot yourself in the foot! Leave that to us! ;-)

[Bigdave_185]

Dude, sorry, but you've definitely crossed over into fluid change territory! 

Does anyone else agree???

I’d say he’s not even fifty percent there,

Still has the engine installed, the Og wheels n tires and zero talk of a mall mulch bed removal winch n bumper combo.


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[JR]

Much less you get to pick where to fill up. Might only be 10-20 a gallon, but throw 30-40 gallons in and its a good savings. I know you do ltrs up there and it costs more too.

[Sammconn]

Sam, did you put new rubber fuel hoses in with the new tank?

Nate, I didn’t.
Didn’t even cross my mind…

I hope I don’t need to anytime soon.
FWIW all the rubber bits on this are still OE and are still good in appearance.
Brake lines fuel lines etc.

[Sammconn]

Working on a punch list of sorts, as time is my enemy.
HH6 coming home from lake for a few days, so I'll put here to work with a few of these items.

in the next day:
Front fenders, batteries et al associated
light buckets
grill
hood
windshield wipers
Interior plastics
carpet shampoo
Doors
Back seat broken cable to swap.

Then I can get it out of the tent to work on the bed.

I feel two to three days needed for:
Clean and weld broken spot welds in bed (they are everywhere)
clean and undercoat bottom
bodywork and paint outside
bedliner in box (time permitting)
Tailgate paint and assemble.

That puts me at Monday night.
Tuesday drop the box onto the frame and should be a day to spare.

That leads to more work...
upon return, prep and paint new front fenders.
prep and paint other hood (it's in a bit better shape)
tear the front all down again to change in these parts.

Now, my question for all y'all.
Should i put the fender flares back on?
I have mixed feelings now about them.
Most of me wants them for the stone protection they provide. (Which I think answers my question)
But another most of me is appalled by the damage they caused by holding dirt.
I think that means I need to wash the truck a bit more regularly is all.

[JR]

I would not put the flares on, that was much of the damage. I would add simple muds flaps or steps, type you can clean off and doesn't trap crud.

[Nate]

Sam, did you put new rubber fuel hoses in with the new tank?

Nate, I didn’t.
Didn’t even cross my mind…

I hope I don’t need to anytime soon.
FWIW all the rubber bits on this are still OE and are still good in appearance.
Brake lines fuel lines etc.

So the reason I am saying that Sam, is when I had my lbz, those short little rubber fuel hose sections would collapse when hot and starve the cp3, which caused premature failure.

I know you just did all that high $$$ work on the engine rebuild, and I mention this because I would hate to see all that hard work and $$$ get flushed because of a failure of an 8" little rubber hose.

[Flyin6]

Now, my question for all y'all.
Should i put the fender flares back on?
I have mixed feelings now about them.
Most of me wants them for the stone protection they provide. (Which I think answers my question)
But another most of me is appalled by the damage they caused by holding dirt.
I think that means I need to wash the truck a bit more regularly is all.

I do not like them
But they do provide protection, and I have the stock ones on the Suburban, still.
I would wrap the fender lip from just inside outward a couple inches with that clear plastic or vinyl stuff that is built to protect against rock chips.

[Sammconn]

Sam, did you put new rubber fuel hoses in with the new tank?

Nate, I didn’t.
Didn’t even cross my mind…

I hope I don’t need to anytime soon.
FWIW all the rubber bits on this are still OE and are still good in appearance.
Brake lines fuel lines etc.

So the reason I am saying that Sam, is when I had my lbz, those short little rubber fuel hose sections would collapse when hot and starve the cp3, which caused premature failure.

I know you just did all that high $$$ work on the engine rebuild, and I mention this because I would hate to see all that hard work and $$$ get flushed because of a failure of an 8" little rubber hose.

Understood.
I’m not in the heat really either like you guys all are.
Doesn’t mean it won’t happen either.
But, I do have an air dog to install possibly. If I can find real estate for it.
That doesn’t replace the hoses but would keep them inflated.

[JR]

My pump is under the filler neck. Close to the tank so plumbing was easy and added a shield to stop tire crud.

I used a generic Carter pump with a 10 micron water filter.

[Sammconn]

So, new fenders make it to the kiddo's place in a good state.
Need put hood and doors on tonight and the ruck can go back outside.

Pulled the CAC pipe and it was full of oil, like fuller than when I pulled the engine.
So, in the true form of a fluid change a new one is ordered and, in the mail, quite literally.

It will be replaced while the front fenders are off next time.
With any luck, this will eliminate my excessive oil use, lack of boost and mileage.
Those are the big three symptoms I'm facing, and they have been getting progressively worse.

[Flyin6]

So, new fenders make it to the kiddo's place in a good state.
Need put hood and doors on tonight and the ruck can go back outside.

Pulled the CAC pipe and it was full of oil, like fuller than when I pulled the engine.
So, in the true form of a fluid change a new one is ordered and, in the mail, quite literally.

It will be replaced while the front fenders are off next time.
With any luck, this will eliminate my excessive oil use, lack of boost and mileage.
Those are the big three symptoms I'm facing, and they have been getting progressively worse.

...Dangerously close to pulling something big off the motor...
Be careful
When you cross over, it all comes apart...
;-)