REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: wyorunner on August 20, 2015, 01:38:02 AM
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Alright Guys and Gals, Boys and Girls, It is officially go time. Although it has arrived it may be slow at first, but hopefully continual progress will be made. The end goal is a crew cab with a 12valve cummins in it. Wife and I have been wanting a simple and rugged/durable truck for a while. Cummins was also the go to power plant for simplicity and durability. The chosen body was something that took a minute to get too. We talked burbs (70s models) or crew cab chevys. Then I found that dodge made some crew cab power wagons and first gens, and I set my mind on having one of these. Took a few years to get one, but finally one was able to be purchased. After a few thousand miles in a few short days we had our crew cab home with us here in AZ. For a little more information on the decision see my original thread http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=1274.0 (couldn't figure out how to hyperlink the word thread, I tried).
So we bought the Crew Cab out of Montana, and the donor truck out of Phoenix. The CrewCab is a 1974 with a rebuilt 440 and NP435, and I even have the receipts from the work! Has D70s under it with 4.10s according to the numbers I was able to provide Tate. Mileage, well who knows and who cares. It also has the divorced 205 transfer case.
The donor is a 1992 (11/91) club cab 250 that has lived its life in AZ. It has the 12valve, a 4 spd auto and a transfer case I am assuming is an NP205 (haven't looked yet). This truck would a great place to start for a rebuild if you wanted a club cab, as much of the work has already been done. That being said we want a crew cab not a club cab, that was part of this whole undertaking it had to have four doors. I will be taking the axles, and drivetrain from this 92 and placing them ever so neatly into the crew cab. The pump has been rebuilt according to PO, and he bought the truck with a broken transmission so that too has been rebuilt. As far as I know to stock specs. Mileage, also not truly known, but after talking to a cummins man before looking at it, I am going to think its somewhere in the mid 150s. It doesn't blow smoke unless power braked, the oil drip tube on the drivers side of the engine (can't think of proper term) is not wet nor can I get it wet, and it also does not blow any smoke. Therefore I believe it to be a young and healthy heart....just the item we need! I believe it has a 70 in the rear again thanks to Tate and his number magic. Both front and rear tags state it has 3.54s, which is what I want as we will not be running anything bigger than 35s (so I say now).
So the plan.... Get started immediately, pull the unwanted boat anchors under the crew cab. Then pull the 12valve/transmission/transfer case. Do a bit of frame touch up and steering sorting and then install cummins. Drive like the dickens, pull back into the house and have some whiskey.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5028.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5028.jpg.html)Just loaded ready to leave MT.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5031.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5031.jpg.html)South of Casper at the beginning of my longest day (18hrs).
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5051.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5051.jpg.html)At home.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5052.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5052.jpg.html)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5053.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5053.jpg.html)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5054.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5054.jpg.html)
Original green...Thought about trying to bring it back...Not happening.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5055.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5055.jpg.html)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5063.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5063.jpg.html)
Donor of love just before leaving its PO's home.
More to follow of course, will add pic tours of the donor tomorrow.
If you are interested in any of the following please let me know:
rebuilt 440/np435
closed knuckle dana 70 front with 4.10s
dana70 rear with 4.10s
divorced 205 transfercase
almost complete 1992 dodge club cab body
I will gladly pallet and ship if you are willing to pay the shipping costs.
Turner
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This will be good and don't get rushed. BD is on build day like 275 or something, not including time off.
Those parts should go easy, lots of diehard fans.
Tates a good guy and Randys like my CC.
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This will no doubt be another well thought out build. Concept is solid, seems to be well financed, achievable, and lots of commitment
This is where most of us will end up going in time once it fully settles in just what modern trucks have become...wasteful and burdened with the results of foolish bureaucratic handiwork
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Congrats man, awesome to see you scored your next piece in the puzzle. So now all you need to do is start wrenching and have fun 8)
With that said, we are going to put some miles on the Ramcharger today tooling around. I may go see what I can score that crew local to me for. Not sure why, like I need another Dodge LoL
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Congrats man, awesome to see you scored your next piece in the puzzle. So now all you need to do is start wrenching and have fun 8)
With that said, we are going to put some miles on the Ramcharger today tooling around. I may go see what I can score that crew local to me for. Not sure why, like I need another Dodge LoL
Yea you could probably use another one :o you guys should drive out here, and check out some of AZ.
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Just make Ken do it! ;)
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OK, where does Hank come from??
I sure liked AZ when I was on vacation a few times, just to far to get to from here if I need to.
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OK, where does Hank come from??
I sure liked AZ when I was on vacation a few times, just to far to get to from here if I need to.
So I asked a brother of mine for ideas. It took a few days but if you read comics or have, think Xmen. Dr. Hank McCoy aka Beast. So instead of calling the truck beast (which is what we want it to be) we chose to go indirectly with Hank!
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/9989918a7ee2f2212063e1127a42a852.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/b83f8ec7312e2587ecf3cf5a618a10a8.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/cdb88df37a60331d8d462d3847f5842c.jpg)
Just a few more.
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Gonna look good! watching closely
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I will be watching as well...... I thought of you yesterday while I spent 45min looking for a radiator overflow reservoir for a pre 93 Dodge pickup in my parts stash. The thought was......."I bet his crew cab has a 12V before mine does at this rate"
I am still at bare frame stage... your odd are fair LOL
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I will be watching as well...... I thought of you yesterday while I spent 45min looking for a radiator overflow reservoir for a pre 93 Dodge pickup in my parts stash. The thought was......."I bet his crew cab has a 12V before mine does at this rate"
I am still at bare frame stage... your odd are fair LOL
Norm, you have until June to get it running!
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Heck, we have 4 conversions going now and 1 actually ready to run, guess who,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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LMAO Don touche my friend.
I got waylaid by life...and I don't have my shop partner which really slows me down. Hopefully she will feel better soon and we can get back to work.
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But heck Norm, the target was "June", not specifying which June~!
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But heck Norm, the target was "June", not specifying which June~!
Exactly!
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Nothing real exciting of an update but figured I should throw up my recent experience. Currently I am ready to work but seems time has not been on my side and this weekend is the end of another class.
So, yesterday I needed to go pick up a couple pallets of feed for a friend and myself. I figured the power wagon was the way to go, with the flat bed and all. Well I made it less than 4 miles from the house, went to shift down to slow down and take a corner... As soon as I let out the clutch the truck was dead in the water. I was immediately confused, still kind of am as I haven't looked into for more than a few minutes. Found a blown 30 amp fuse that the alternator had to send power through in order for it to get to the battery, odd i thought. So I removed that, wife came up gave me a pull start and off I went as it seemed fine.
Well as I was going down the highway (less than a mile from where we were at) truck seemed to be maxed out and no more throttle response, I was barely doing 45 I would guess. Then as I went to shift down again DEAD! Again wife and the dura max came to the rescue and we towed it home. Then took the known reliable truck and got two tons of feed.
Fiddled with the power wagon when I ended up at home after off loading a never ending pile of feed bags. Didn't get real into it so I don't know at this time. Thoughts were of course the electrical system as each time it died the battery acted dead, then I was thinking bad fuel, and carburetor issues. It only would do this when topped out in fourth, it never did it before when tooling around the dirt roads near the house so that's my unfortunate no fun picture less update.
Blessings,
Turner
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so are we talking about just straight up died, chugged a bit and died, sputtered and died.................?
is there some sort of a safety relay on the trans that would cause it to die.....like when a torq convert goes out......to keep the trans from blowing itself up................?
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so are we talking about just straight up died, chugged a bit and died, sputtered and died.................?
is there some sort of a safety relay on the trans that would cause it to die.....like when a torq convert goes out......to keep the trans from blowing itself up................?
I would say it was sputtering while trying to run at speed, but not bad enough to be of significant concern or so I thought. Once I pushed the clutch in to shift down it just simply died no warning, nothing, just no power. Then tried to start it and I'd get the "click" from the starter. Got it home let it set and it tried to turn over before the battery fully gave up, and by try I mean it turned the crank once or twice just not fast enough.
I was actually thinking along the same lines of a safety relay. But never got that far into it because of other duties, and such is the current situation. Trying to finish up class before end of day as it is the last day of class today, and being that this is my job it takes precedence... As much as I'd rather be out there looking at the truck.
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It sounds like it just flat ran out of voltage. If the alternator wasn't charging, and voltage dropped below 9 volts or so, it would die. The electronic ignition needs more than that.
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^^^this is a really good possibility^^^
could be a good indication that both the battery and the alternator have gone caput!?
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There is a wire on old Dodges that carries all the ALT voltage through the firewall bulkhead up to the Amp meter, through it, and back into the harness. If I was to guess at a no charge situation I'd be looking at that wire. If it has not been removed/replaced I sure would do so ASAP. It burns down a lot of nice old Dodge trucks. They go bad at the bulkhead or at the Amp Meter it's self usually.
Also it could be any one of a half dozen fusible links. The usual fix for this can be found in a Google search....it's a common issue.
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There is a wire on old Dodges that carries all the ALT voltage through the firewall bulkhead up to the Amp meter, through it, and back into the harness. If I was to guess at a no charge situation I'd be looking at that wire. If it has not been removed/replaced I sure would do so ASAP. It burns down a lot of nice old Dodge trucks. They go bad at the bulkhead or at the Amp Meter it's self usually.
Also it could be any one of a half dozen fusible links. The usual fix for this can be found in a Google search....it's a common issue.
The amp meter wire is the one that I would say has a significant choke point in it. It is a 4ga wire from alt to meter and the PO had placed a fusible link that was on 10ga in the middle of it, blew that fuse, I then pulled the fusible link. In hopes to get me to town. The wire from alt to meter and the meter were both new. I'll be out there fiddling today.
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Long over do update,
I finally got some time to be able to work on this project. The Cummins is all but two transmission cooler lines and the AC lines ready to come out, should be in the next couple days. While in there I found a couple interesting things;
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5392.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5392.jpg.html)
This was in the bottom of the radiator. While I didn't get a picture of it, I feel as though this truck went a period without anything in the cooling system because the inlet port on the top of the block was anything but smooth, there was a significant amount of build up as well as rust. At this point, it doesn't worry me to much.
While this thing is not a new find, what it is connected to I only just found out and I don't understand why it is attached.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5399.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5399.jpg.html)
It is located under the middle passenger side of the bed and has two hoses running to the Automatic transmission. I understand it is obviously some kind of ATF cooler, but with the two that were already factory on the truck what point does this serve? Possibly to combat heat from heavy towing? It is cobbled together to boot. I am unsure if it is factory or not but I think it is not. Any info on it sure would be neat, but I am not keeping it whatever it is.
Sorry I didn't take a picture of the parts pile that is continually growing.
What is the preferred method of AC removal for a system that is not going to be re-used, but possibly sold? My concern is the charge that is in the system, dismantling it and removing the hoses is not that big of a deal really, just not sure how to evac the system.
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Most would say to have the system evaced by a pro. I would just crack a line and let it bleed out (not pc or enviro correct) but the world will not end. Cap everything off and store for selling or reuse.
Weird stuff there for sure in the coolant, but I have seen few really clean. Especially the older stuff, is there an anode in there?
Maybe they took out a nice cooler and left the fan?
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Looks to be a cooler. Probably thermostatically controlled fan I would guess. Remotely mounted there is insufficient air flow to cool so there are units with a built in fan. Ditch it and save 20 lbs.
Similar to this one by extreme diesel. (http://www.xtremediesel.com/images/products/detail/45951.1.jpg)
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That's one "Goobered up" location to hang one! Must have really been lifted to think that was a good spot!
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That goop in the rad is coolant "gel". After a couple years of sitting, the coolant turns into a gelatin. (this can also happen when in service, to a lesser degree...dexcool is notorious for that).
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So I'm waiting on getting engine hoist to the house (read tractor with forks) but in the mean time i managed this....
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/12/d1b17dfe213fa3c4759f65d3c27db9a5.jpg)
That picture does not do it justice. I showed my wife when she got home and she said "oh wow you can see inside flesh"
Here's a better one(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/12/c39d2580acfc0348d36ebe195cd7a180.jpg)
Now does anybody need an air conditioning system from a 92 dodge, a 92 adventure cab with long bed, a rebuilt 7.2l 440, an np435 or a divorced 205 transfer case? If you are interested in any or all please let me know, and depending on where you live well work out delivery arrangements.
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quit crying, put some GAA on it, wrap it with 100mph tape, take some motrin and move out and draw fire..........;D
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Butterfly or super glue, then 100 MPH tape
CM
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rub some dirt on it and keep moving, bro. Jus sayin....
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quit crying, put some GAA on it, wrap it with 100mph tape, take some motrin and move out and draw fire..........;D
Ya see, you forgot two things change your socks and make sure you drink enough water. Crying... Just have to learn to work through it!
Butterfly or super glue, then 100 MPH tape
Superglue, that's my go to for most things, and essential oil.
CM
rub some dirt on it and keep moving, bro. Jus sayin....
ATF, Gravel and a general coating of grease, it's good!
It seemed fitting to share or maybe somewhat common place when the bloodletting is from a rig.
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Oh yeah. You MUST share those sacrifices and then just know the next thing is the ribbing....
Like when I hit myself in the shin with the axe.....
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And my knee with the chainsaw...
And I suppose I could add a PSA about axes as well.
Never use an axe in place of a hatchet...
For limbing trees to cut up...
And then start lifting them overhead...because he pile is too knotted up.
After 10 odd minutes or so, the swinging arm loses track of the inertia of the axe head...
And this is the result.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/Cabin/year%20one/306CFBE3-C3D4-44DD-A18C-E2FF45E4FE3F.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/Cabin/year%20one/306CFBE3-C3D4-44DD-A18C-E2FF45E4FE3F.jpg.html)
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its a wonder your even alive still sam
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I've got almost the exact same scar, on the same hand, and from an axe... haha
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No blood, no fun. Every project must have some blood on it.
If its not bleeding, who cares. Cover it and get back to work.
Wish I could, my sciatic nerve came down hard yesterday, meds did nothing for the pain. Today I am just stiff/sore and the foot is numb.
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its a wonder your even alive still sam
To be quite honest, I'm pretty hard on the whole body unit.
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Two words. Quick Clot
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Two words. Quick Clot
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Not bad enough for QC
That's a masking tape wound if ever I saw one!
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Not to add to the severe bloodletting d.o.t. BUT last year around this time I felt the need to allow the ax to slip off the log it was splitting and bound into my pinky toe. Was one of those "huny, I think we might need to go to the emergency room...." Two hours later no emergency room, just essential oil and a band aid as the toe wasn't hanging just a cut.
Samm, I am like you overall general abuse to the body have been most of my life and don't foresee a slow down anytime soon.
Now for the update, I want to start by sharing a bit of a learning lesson for those who may not have ever pulled an engine, maybe help someone save time or damage to something. Over the last couple days I have worked on this I have found my self wanting it out more and more, and the closer it gets the more its desired. Why do I tell you all this, because as many of you are aware this can create problems and accidents. Thankfully it only cost me time...Oh and a small flesh wound, no biggy really. However, the time I spent taking things further apart mid way through when things were in a bind could have entirely been alleviated had I done EVERYTHING before attempting removal. The point here is remove as much as possible before attempting removal, it will save time and possibly stress.
Things to remember, there are a bajillion little connections on an engine make sure they are all unplugged and bungy corded out of the way.
Be sure to remove the transmission dipstick before you attempt removal, it will just make everything easier.
Think about your lifting apparatus if it doesn't have any other movement than up and down try to plan your chain hook up accordingly so the engine will come out as close to level as possible.
Or, simply remove the front clip and fenders, a little more time, but no concern about squeezing things through. On that same note, if this is done you can remove engine and transmission as one whole unit, look around on here you'll see it be done.
Lastly DO NOT hurry, especially when your lifting apparatus is diesel powered hydraulics. Thankfully I did not have any issues, but the hydraulics can make quick mince meat of any number of ATF lines, electrical connections, front clip, firewall, WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR (watch this one if your pulling a 6bt from a dodge, its a lovely tight squeeze).
Also, if you've never done one before, be sure to ask any and all questions to someone or a group of someones that will probably have the answer. I know pride may get in the way, but it could save you money in sheet metal or any other number of things. I would also recommend an extra set of hands if you can find them, if not go slow and always pay close attention to where the motor is at in regards to the body of your rig.
Now, here is from today!
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5414.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5414.jpg.html)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5415.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5415.jpg.html)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5416.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5416.jpg.html)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5418.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5418.jpg.html)
The tractor made slick work of the removal!
Now who wants this body? I would love to have it gone.
Next steps are minor things to the 12 valve, such as valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, valve adjustment, killer dowel pin fix, thorough washing, fluid change :) possibly rear main seal, what else do you all recommend? Also, reputable source for such parts? I know, there all over the internet but yous guys have purchased from a number of them and know the good and the bad.
While that is going on the crew cab will begun its gutting, mainly get the engine, transmission, and transfer case out, so I can get the Cummins back in there.
Also, anybody have a getrag or NV4500 with transfer case they would like to part with?
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I like it.
Seeing motors show up is a solid step forward
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Made some more progress this week, was able to get the 440 and so I thought NP435 out. Turns out its not an NP435, its a 4530 also seen it as a 445. No idea what its worth or it compatibility so if you have any info on this please let me know, or if you want it that would be good to. All I know is it has a 4.56 first according to tag and some research.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5438.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5438.jpg.html)
Pretty close to being ready to come out here.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5443.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5443.jpg.html)
In the process of getting there I found all this sadness
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5440.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5440.jpg.html)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5441.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5441.jpg.html)
The bolts holding the front core support on, one of them was not even attached, the others just pulled through the clips. The bottom three are from the passenger side and were still removable.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5439.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5439.jpg.html)
None of that was a huge cause for concern, because the front clip is going to have to be modified anyways, or maybe just have a custom radiator and intercooler built...Yea Ill probably modify the front clip. In further workings what I found was what made me concerned.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5444.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5444.jpg.html)
This pile of sadness here is in the rocker panel on the passenger side, any suggestions on how to be able to cut that inside chunk out and repair it? Looking at it seems there are two layers in this tunnel, the outside piece closest to the frame, then this middle section that is completely rusted through. Also realized the magnitude of the entire floorboard needing to be replaced.
Moving along came this positive moment,
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5452.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5452.jpg.html)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5454.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5454.jpg.html)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5453.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5453.jpg.html)
Lastly there was this findings when I was done loading moving and jockeying everything around.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5455.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5455.jpg.html)
Hopefully somebody smarter than can give me the skinny on this four speed. Sorry theres nothing technical for you to learn. Should come down the road.
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Bummer on the floor rust....the crew cab floors are a bit different than standard cab floors.
The 445 was a optional close ratio 4 spd in the early 70's. It was often ordered for snow plowing and camper hauling. The ratio splits made all 4 gears more useful in a largely "empty" truck. Ie you could use first, and 3rd gear was highway friendly when climbing hills. Gear ratios are 1st 4.56, 2nd 2.28, 3rd 1.31, 4th 1:1. If you had a big block powered Dodge with a slide in camper and did much hill climbing, this was the transmission to use.
It is a bit "rare" although I guess in all honesty most people don't have much use for them LoL Especially given the divorced mounting issue, it's range of applications is limited.
On a Dodge I think I did mention to you the wisdom of front clip removal before engine yanking. Do make sure to do this on your Cummins truck. Also remove the wiper motor, and the brake line clip on the engine cross-member under the oil pan.
Gasket info: Buy a Fel Pro bottom end kit, they work fine with proper installation. In fact, I could argue they work better in so far as the pan gasket/front seal. Anything attached to the head area, buy it from Case-IH/Cummins. Case being much more thrifty BTW. Exception to this rule are the "blue" Fel-pro valve cover gaskets...I use these instead of the Cummins gaskets on my builds with great luck.
Kill that KDP, lock tight yr timing cover bolts behind the gears, and toss it in.
I'd contact Hungry Diesel in Idaho and buy one of his low pressure lift pump kits. Go back to Case/IH buy a "nipple" Case IH part #J925954 this will allow you to use a OEM fuel filter, and eliminate the fuel heater you no longer can buy parts for, and always leaks at the worse possible time. (if this hasn't already been done)
If looking for something to do while stalled on other aspects of the project... rebuild the OEM starter (if its still on there) and use a "upgrade" http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/starters/rebuild-kits.html (http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/starters/rebuild-kits.html) read some on that page, you'll get the idea. I highly advise doing this BEFORE it craps. If it doesn't have a OEM starter.... find one LoL
Other little tidbits: The oil seal between the vac pump and the P/S pump usually leaks. Or it will soon....LoL I'd prolly replace that if your keeping the vac boosted brakes. Also label your motor mount brackets/mounts L or R side so you don't confuse them somehow if you remove them...you have no idea how many do this LoL
Oh yeah... tappet cover seal, replace this using a OEM Case/Cummins gasket. This will also leak...and anger you to no end if you don't replace it now.
that should keep you busy for a while....
On your rust issues...I warned you about this =P Ok... that said, Do yourself a fav now and consider your facilities and skill levels and equipment. If you are ambitious you can use the front half of the floors and firewall from the club cab. A few spot weld cutters, some patience and a lot of grunt work and you'd have a nice solid fix. Another point of interest...IF you also find roof rust....the front half of that club cab roof is the same as the crews...I would first thing...remove every stitch of seam sealer from the roof seams and look close for corrosion. This will fubar your paint...but your in this deep. LoL Roof seam leaks are the #1 cause of floor rust in these trucks, cowl cracks being the second reason... many have both.
What I am saying is..... you may want to hang onto that club cab a while yet. It may turn out to be exactly the parts truck you needed.
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Bummer on the floor rust....the crew cab floors are a bit different than standard cab floors.
By a bit do you mean won't fit without lots of work or just needs a little extra love?
The 445 was a optional close ratio 4 spd in the early 70's. It was often ordered for snow plowing and camper hauling. The ratio splits made all 4 gears more useful in a largely "empty" truck. Ie you could use first, and 3rd gear was highway friendly when climbing hills. Gear ratios are 1st 4.56, 2nd 2.28, 3rd 1.31, 4th 1:1. If you had a big block powered Dodge with a slide in camper and did much hill climbing, this was the transmission to use.
It is a bit "rare" although I guess in all honesty most people don't have much use for them LoL Especially given the divorced mounting issue, it's range of applications is limited.
Works well as a pallet anchor or dirt desk ornament.
On a Dodge I think I did mention to you the wisdom of front clip removal before engine yanking. Do make sure to do this on your Cummins truck. Also remove the wiper motor, and the brake line clip on the engine cross-member under the oil pan.
You did, sadly I'm an idiot and did not listen or remember, so I made it more difficult that it needed to be. Got it out without breaking anything though, thankfully.
Gasket info: Buy a Fel Pro bottom end kit, they work fine with proper installation. In fact, I could argue they work better in so far as the pan gasket/front seal. Anything attached to the head area, buy it from Case-IH/Cummins. Case being much more thrifty BTW. Exception to this rule are the "blue" Fel-pro valve cover gaskets...I use these instead of the Cummins gaskets on my builds with great luck.
This is great news, thanks!
Kill that KDP, lock tight yr timing cover bolts behind the gears, and toss it in.
On the list.
I'd contact Hungry Diesel in Idaho and buy one of his low pressure lift pump kits. Go back to Case/IH buy a "nipple" Case IH part #J925954 this will allow you to use a OEM fuel filter, and eliminate the fuel heater you no longer can buy parts for, and always leaks at the worse possible time. (if this hasn't already been done)
Thanks for the heads up will add to the list.
If looking for something to do while stalled on other aspects of the project... rebuild the OEM starter (if its still on there) and use a "upgrade" http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/starters/rebuild-kits.html (http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/starters/rebuild-kits.html) read some on that page, you'll get the idea. I highly advise doing this BEFORE it craps. If it doesn't have a OEM starter.... find one LoL
Don't know if it is the OEM, will investigate and make note of it.
Other little tidbits: The oil seal between the vac pump and the P/S pump usually leaks. Or it will soon....LoL I'd prolly replace that if your keeping the vac boosted brakes. Also label your motor mount brackets/mounts L or R side so you don't confuse them somehow if you remove them...you have no idea how many do this LoL
Going to save the vac boost for the time being, once its driving, ill be upgrading to hydroboost.
Oh yeah... tappet cover seal, replace this using a OEM Case/Cummins gasket. This will also leak...and anger you to no end if you don't replace it now.
that should keep you busy for a while....
On your rust issues...I warned you about this =P Ok... that said, Do yourself a fav now and consider your facilities and skill levels and equipment. If you are ambitious you can use the front half of the floors and firewall from the club cab. A few spot weld cutters, some patience and a lot of grunt work and you'd have a nice solid fix. Another point of interest...IF you also find roof rust....the front half of that club cab roof is the same as the crews...I would first thing...remove every stitch of seam sealer from the roof seams and look close for corrosion. This will fubar your paint...but your in this deep. LoL Roof seam leaks are the #1 cause of floor rust in these trucks, cowl cracks being the second reason... many have both.
What sucks about this, is the rust that I found, and small cowl cracks I couldn't have found without taking it apart, sadly. Now, facilities not enough room right now for half cab mating, skills, yea I'd probably make it through it... But it would not look factory I'm afraid. Floor/firewall will be doing the floor for sure, fire wall, have to think about this one. May go the route the orange crew cab did and cut the entire thing out and replace it with 16ga. Seem sealer, Haven't gotten to this yet (cab is getting stripped in the next week or so), but the previous owner said he cleaned it all up when he first got it and re sealed it. Do I believe this, not fully but there is no paint cracking or flaking from the rust in the gutter so its very possible that all my floor problems came from the hidden cowl cracks. I am currently trying to figure out how to juggle two pallets of parts that are being stored on the flat bed, then take the truck out of the garage, cab off then back in garage then everything in its respective spots will be taken down to bare metal to find all issues, issues fixed, then painted. Honestly, wife and I did not want to go this far into it yet, really just wanted to get it running, But the floor is just too much of a cobbled together mess and needs to be fixed correctly, not with rivets and expanding foam. Still have faith in the truck, just have to create a cut and dry fixing plan.
What I am saying is..... you may want to hang onto that club cab a while yet. It may turn out to be exactly the parts truck you needed.
This is the second time I heard this today, and am most certainly heeding this advice.
Norm, as always, thank you for your input it is much appreciated, as I am just a new kid in town with the basic know how of how to be dangerous with a vehicle. Maybe an ambitious project, but when it is wanted by you and your wife, you find a way to make it happen, and that is what I will be doing.
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Thats worth a copy in your notes,.,,,,,,,,,,,
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One thing I was thinking.... toss us some pictures here of your floor issues, lets see what you have to work with.
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Outside the frame rail passenger side under the front door.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5472.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5472.jpg.html)
Front of the transmission tunnel just where the cab curves back, passenger side.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5473.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5473.jpg.html)
Showing how the previous owner attached the two floor pans, these rivets are a common sight.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5474.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5474.jpg.html)
Drivers side transmission tunnel just as the cab curves back under the firewall.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5475.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5475.jpg.html)
Under the drivers feet.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5476.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5476.jpg.html)
Drivers seat area, right above transmission mount, used pieces of the original fenders or the bed. The fenders on this truck are probably from LMC or someone like them.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5477.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5477.jpg.html)
Outside the frame rail, drivers side, B pillar area.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5478.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5478.jpg.html)
Outside the frame rail, drivers side, directly below drivers door, this piece is huge. You might be able to see the attempt to remove the bad rust where it was cut just at edge of the door and then re-floorpanned, guessing that was the intent. Again, more fender or bed was use in conjunction with one of them floor pans from LMC or someone like them (is there anybody besides LMC that sells body parts like this?).
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5479.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5479.jpg.html)
Close up of the new floor pan that was riveted, caulked, and foamed in.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_5480.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_5480.jpg.html)
These kind of give you an idea of what I am working with. When I push the truck back out of the garage to wash some of it, I'll get under there and wash the dirt off and maybe get some more/better pictures. Or I might just wait until I have the cab off and stripped, then we will be able to see the true ugliness. Didn't think it was this bad when I purchased it, but I also wanted to just get back on the road. Serves me right for rushing through the sale I suppose. Oh well, lots will be learned. Hopefully, Ill be able to get my wife involved in some of the cutting and pasting, then a WHOLE LOT will be learned, as she has only ever taken things apart with me, never put them back together. Shoot, it is going to be her daily driver after its done anyways, would be good for her to get her hands dirty and involved, oh and its always awesome getting the household boss involved in the project!
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Umm, that's errr, ugly...
Lots of work correcting that mess!
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Looks a little rough, but nothing a good mig or tig (and a bunch of time) won't fix.
p.s. A thick layer of undercoating will cover unsightly welds! lol
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Looks a little rough, but nothing a good mig or tig (and a bunch of time) won't fix.
p.s. A thick layer of undercoating will cover unsightly welds! lol
Ken, funny you should mention that..... The previous owner lined the whole cab floor. Makes me wonder what I'll find when it gets removed. Things may be taking an unexpected turn though, and we may just get it road worthy for the time being, and then in a few months it'll get torn down to bare. We'll know soon enough I suppose. Certainly not what I want to do but some other unforeseen circumstances have reared their not so pretty head.
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Have you been able to get your housing situation resolved so you can get back to work on this?
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Have you been able to get your housing situation resolved so you can get back to work on this?
Resolved??? No not really, but such is life. Doesn't matter though, I'm going to get back at it now that things have mellowed out a little. Starting a new education program in a couple months so hopefully can make significant progress between now and then. Sadly it has sat neglected for the last month and a half. I'll try l change that starting tomorrow.
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Finally making some kind of progress. Pulled both axles from under Hank, and started on pulling the newer donor axles. Got the rear removed but not installed as I have to drill out the leaf spring holes mounting holes on Hank.
Where are you guys buying bushings at? They all need to be replaced, and I'd prefer to do it now while the axle and leaf springs are out.
Got the axle from Hank installed back into the donor truck as well.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/0ddf094866ce8a7d0f3bc332b207987a.jpg)
Only picture I took was that one, with axles out. Hoping to get the front started on being removed today but currently business sitting for a friend.
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This looks like a fun project. I've got a 64 IH Scout 80 that has some interesting rust repair on the rockers. Original owner cut out the rust, put in chicken wire and fiberglass, and covered that with a sheet metal panel riveted to the body on either side. LOL.
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alittle inspiration for Hank..
found in Austin Texas. started as a 2wd (yes, I crawled underneath it to look at it. hahah) crossover steering. helper springs and air bags in the back. new ish dodge leather seats (not sure if year, but buckets and a console) 5 speed manual with NP 205. only missing front drive shaft.
yes.. I left a note. hahah
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/5F6CE3BF-B6FA-4294-A40C-0B6795F72AC5.jpg)
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/3B45944D-4484-4B5F-BE5E-6C56390EDF5A.jpg)
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/09A4722E-9ED3-4333-B083-FE95E6B75CBF.jpg)
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/B9F423A6-030C-4F1D-B8A1-0A6002FEA23D.jpg)
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Nice find!
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Nice find!
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just wish it had a 'for sale' sign in the window. lol
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That'd be sweet!
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Nice find!
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just wish it had a 'for sale' sign in the window. lol
Never know, just might be.
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Thanks for the inspiration. Honestly right now we are at a point where cash has become limited as we took a pretty significant pay cut beginning of February.
I'm ready to be rolling just no dough to get the pieces needed, even small ones. It sad I will say, but it's ok. I do appreciate seeing nice trucks though.
There is a 2wd here locally at a dealer that is an 84 crew cab long box. If anybody is interested. I've been told two prices by the snake oil salesman there, 4 and 5. It does have a 440 in it I believe.
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That's a pretty Crew Cab pictured. I imagine that with a short box and a squarish oil change, treatment...
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That's a pretty Crew Cab pictured. I imagine that with a short box and a squarish oil change, treatment...
agreed.
but.. the long bed doesn't look as long in person. that pic is deceiving. however, I love the way a 6.5' bed looks on them.
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Wait tell you see how unattractive they can look with a 6.5' step side bed LOL
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That's a pretty Crew Cab pictured. I imagine that with a short box and a squarish oil change, treatment...
agreed.
but.. the long bed doesn't look as long in person. that pic is deceiving. however, I love the way a 6.5' bed looks on them.
I would have to disagree here. The long bed in town, compared to the 6.5 in my garage appear drastically different. I do know I'd still own a long box if I had the chance. But I like ours! I will say that the picture above does indeed make it look as though it's a rollback length box...
Somebody needs to come down here and pickup this crew cab at the dealer!
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Wait tell you see how unattractive they can look with a 6.5' step side bed LOL
Used to see those all over in the military, ugly things!!
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Back on track here for a moment, went to town today and ordered some new bushings to get this thing back its feet rather than jack stands. The rear axle out of the 92 has been a bit perplexing. The more I look at it the more I find myself scratching my tiny little think tank.
The leafs I do not believe to be from a dodge and if they are, they are from two different vehicles because they are not the same. Meaning each leaf of the two packs is different than the corresponding leaf of the other pack. Then there's the fact that these leafs have 1 1/2" eyes with 3/4" bolts. Seems 3/4" bolts isn't too big of a deal, as they came on some heavy duty trucks, but I couldn't find anything about a dodge with 1 1/2" eyes.
Found a shop out in PA that offered some kind of factory replacement which was encouraging....but they didn't give me any other information than the price and that they had them. I went to Napa and told the ol boy behind the counter what I was looking for. Probably about 45 or so minutes later some more internetting there he found what I was looking for 1 1/2" od with a 5/8" bolt, not the 3/4". Cheaper than I was able to find them online so he's got them coming. Hopefully will have this thing on its feet by weeks end. I drilled the front leaf front mounts out to 5/8" instead of the 1/2" that was there. Need to just get it bolted up.
Current plan is to get it movable, then out of the garage. Once out, cab and flatbed are coming off and will be "cleaned".. While they are off, the rolling chassis will go back in the garage and the drivetrain will be installed. I feel it is easier for me to do it this way than to fight the cab in the way while I'm trying to figure out a trans crossmember. I think the 92 cross member will do the job with only minor metal work needed.
While the frame will essentially be naked, it is also going to get some needed attention in the cleaning department.
Eventually, all leafs will be getting replaced with the long leafs and all of jungles HD gear, and shackle flip in the rear. I want to get away from having blocks, and I figure I can do that by flipping the shackles in the rear and running 63s. The stance I believe will be something similar to what it is now, which is fully usable, and what I want out of the truck.
Sorry no pictures. I'll try to post some up of the bushing removal process when you don't have the proper tools....
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5/8s sounds about right.
Have you looked at SDSprings?
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5/8s sounds about right.
Have you looked at SDSprings?
For the bolts...yes. Bushings no. It was some stroke of luck guy at Napa found them. He essentially went to their website and started clicking on bushings. Then we went through and looked at the measurements until we found the right one. Probably a smart enough guy, but not fully up to snuff on their catalogs and such.
Now as I sit here and think... I probably should have just drilled out the 74 to accept the 3/4" bolts, as I have all of that. It would have worked until I got the stuff we actually want... Oh well, I tend to like to make more work for myself.
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Talk about a long over due update! Finally starting to make progress with this thing. Brakes are done, which really doesn't matter because it is not sitting on wheels or tires, but it's a check off the list. Bought the fuel line today hopefully will have that in tomorrow, figured out the power steering lines and they are going to Tucson on Monday to get made, and I have been slowly cleaning things up on it.... And finding the cancer!
Today was a pretty productive day, as I got all of the bed liner removed on the outside of the doors and the rocker panels.
From this:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160924/3ac09092facd54f75fdf122267562b03.jpg)
To this:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160924/a1e9298b5178e97c4190a6e9a087a0df.jpg)
Don't know if you can see it or not but the bottom front corner of the front door is basically none existent... On the outside and the inside.
Used some aircraft paint remover, paint scraper and some elbow grease, really did pretty good. Found all of the hidden wonders underneath of said bed liner too... That would be copious amounts of bondo!
The plan as of right now (and well for ever I guess) is get this drivable, quickest way possible then begin to upgrade everything. It's a terrible idea really, considering the cab needs to come off worse than anything in order to be properly addressed, but I guess I'll just tear it all apart again next year maybe.. Right now, we need a pickup. The ramcharger and 4Runner just are not doing it, although both capable of doing enough just not pulling.
Sorry for not very many pics or updates, I've never been real good at this thread thing.
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Glad to see an update. I think Spartan is going just as fast,,,,,,,,,,,
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I can definitely identify
What with Square D taking the whole spring summer off while I work on my farm/Hide
But I was eyeballing it just yesterday
Need to get it up and running
Good luck with Hank
All it really needs is someone like you to take an interest in it!
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Slow and steady wins the race, just ask Don. Er....wait bad example
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Also have the transmission crossmember bolted up, which was the first big task that I needed to complete. Didn't fit to the original four holes in the 74 frame. The width of the 92 mount holes was wider by about 3/4 an inch. I could see one of the holes partially on each side but they wouldn't line up. So out came the drill and a 7/16 bit some hours later, a broken tip and some of the holes ending up 1/2" it is bolted up with six of the 12 bolts.
In doing this I noticed that the cab is basically riding on the frame, which leaves no room for the bolts on the top of the frame. When coming out with the original mount I was barely able to get a box end wrench on the head of the bolt, pry bar solved that problem. Truck needs new cab bushings, and could really use a middle mount to support it, may get one fabbed up when the cab comes off. Bushings on the other hand I found a site while reading, but don't know it off the top of my head, have to look through my bookmarks.
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Hockey pucks?
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Hockey pucks?
Sure would be cheaper and easier, but custom made bushings don't seem to hard to find. Wonder if I could turn them on a lathe myself....
So today didn't go quite like planned, but something was still achieved, fired up on the first try.... When I had the positive on the connection of the pump, sorry have no clue what part it was connected to. Just found that's what it needed on the web so I tried it, and she fired right up. And purred like a kitten.... And then because it doesn't have hose on he transmission line, made a big mess and wife says well i guess we better shut it off...
Will post video from phone to show it happened... If any mod/boss wants to remove it because of space feel free I'll get it back up when I get it on photobucket. https://vimeo.com/184165397 (https://vimeo.com/184165397)
Then I proceeded to attempt at installing the tank. The 92 will not fit and will show why when the pics come off the camera. So the 74 tank it is for now. Modified it a bit and went to put it in... Then my line from tank to lift pump was about 6" short. So at that point I said I'm done, and wife just about had dinner ready.
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Video, much better than pics!!
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Cool, I need me one of those...... ;D
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So, today was an absolute accomplish nothing today. But thats ok, here are some pics from yesterdays adventures.
As you can see the tank at the bottom picture is substantially smaller than the one on top. I'm sure you're all aware from my previous post, the bottom one is the 74 (because its smaller and would fit) and the top is the 92. The 92 has two major issues, the first being is that it is too long. If the front part that has a step about 3" in (on the left) was not there I could probably make it fit. That nub hits a cross member and has me off a good ways.
The second issue is with the bump right in front of the pump. It wouldn't be as bad of a problem if the front part wasn't there but oh well I need a tank so lets try the 74.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/DSC_0980.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/DSC_0980.jpg.html)
A little work to the 74 and back in.
This is the original fuel suction line and return line.
The short one in the back which is 1/2" was the return line, while the pickup is 5/16". Should be an easy fix.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/DSC_0977.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/DSC_0977.jpg.html)
Five minutes later we had this.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/DSC_0978.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/DSC_0978.jpg.html)
I cut off the original pick up line with a pipe cutter, and then added a piece of multi use hose rated to handle diesel to the original return.
Tank now fits but I am still 6" or so short on my feed line. My return line is ready and waiting.
Talked to a friend who said she would be willing to try and turn some poly for new body mount bushings, but then began reading about it and became concerned it might be a waste of time as without a variable speed lathe it will essentially melt enough to become worthless. So I'll just get some from the web.
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I need to make a list of to do's to get this thing on the road, so I thought where better to do it so here goes. If you think I am missing something please let me know and I will either add it or say its done.
Need Rear Driveline Built
Front Driveline needs front Ujoint
Throttle Cable
Speedo Cable
Transmission Shifter
Transfer Case Shifter
Install Radiator, intercooler and trans cooler onto front clip
Wire in lights, blinkers, EGT probe, and ignition
Install Front clip
Install windshield
Fenders and hood
Shocks
Tires
Bleed brakes
E-brake Cable
Dang, thats a long list and thats only the really rough version to get it on the road. Any pointers or input is appreciated.
I have the transmission cooler lines run. The tank is installed and plumbed in. Power steering lines were done, but I botched that one and made them backwards and so I need new ones, should be addressed tomorrow though, along with the front Ujoint. As each day passes this truck is needed more and more. Thanks for watching and helping.
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I bet that list triples,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Wow, the forum warned me this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days, thats sad :undecided:
Anyways, since I still have the metal pile and trying to make it into some thing usable lets post!
The last week has been good, some progress has been made.
A while back I got some trans cooler lines made up, well part of them, once the front clip is on I'll finish them.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1273.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1273.jpg.html)
Unfortunately they will have to be replaced with something different.
Moving on, I got a temporary solution for the mount of the driveline will permenantize once truck is drivable and taken to the driveshaft balancer/maker in Tucson.
Rear side,
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1269.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1269.jpg.html)
Front Side,
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1284.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1284.jpg.html)
What I did was take the hanger off the 92 donor which was the shape of a piece of hat channel, I cut the ends off and lifted them to where they sit in the right spot on the existing cross member, welded the wings or flaps back on bolted the one hole that lined up, clamped the other side and drilled another hole.
Then began the refitting of 92 steering column and trans shift linkage.
Both columns,
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1266.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1266.jpg.html)
The linkage process was a only a bit more involved. As many of you are probably aware the shift linkage bushing that hold the linkage in place on the transmission side and the frame rail side are no longer available. So I looked around to no avail, however while at napa, the wise man behind the counter helped tremendously.
I had thought about having a brass bushing turned by a person with a lathe but he said, "just go to Ace and look through their brass bushings" BRILLIANT, I thought, and it was.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1274.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1274.jpg.html)
my parts pile for this. I ended up having to use two bushings on each side because the OD of the mounts and the OD of the shift linkage rod were so far apart, thats ok, a little heat and some sort of soldering two become one!!!!
The frame rail bushing was too long to fit on the linkage rod, so i used my tubing cutter and shortened it! then sanded everything smooth with the only sand paper I had, which was a roll of emory cloth for plumbing...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1275.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1275.jpg.html)
sadly I didn't get any pictures of my poor job of soldering/brazing the pieces together. but here is the linkage with the bushings in place.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1285.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1285.jpg.html)
here it is installed....anything wrong with it (rhetorical question, what is it)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1286.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1286.jpg.html)
final install with linkage connected and column in, and corrected stuff.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1289.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1289.jpg.html)
but as you all can see trans cooler lines, bound to fail eventually with the contact there, so that will be addressed probably once its running.
empty mess of a cab...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1267.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1267.jpg.html)
'new' wheel and column installed...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/wyorunner/Hank/IMG_1287.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wyorunner/media/Hank/IMG_1287.jpg.html)
that turd of a wheel was kind of a pain to install, even though it has the same diameter column as the factory one and the bolt holes where the same width, still don't think its perfect but will do for right now.
It works and it shifts....mostly, won't shift all the way into first but thats ok, drive and reverse are good enough to get it moving and then have the trans shop do the final adjusting if i don't get it.
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So I've also been thinking about the biggest job of the whole project (well maybe, the floor might end up being more involved), the wiring of the truck.
My plan is to create a list of what will need wired, then draw out a diagram on a piece of paper, then transfer that to some plywood in order to get it biggified and closer to truck size.
Here is my list so far:
Dual Batteries
alternator
fuse panel
Starter
Lockout solenoid
starter button
"cluster" lights
headlight switch
dimmer
turn signal switch
dome light
radio
speakers
blower motor
Windshield wiper switch
Air compressor (somewhere)
headlights
blinkers
marker lights
tail lights
brake lights
trailer plug
Gauges:
Voltmeter
Fuel
Pyrometer
boost
trans temp
speedometer
tach
Oil pressure
Water temp
Let me know what I am forgetting, as I am sure there is something.
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Looks good. Thanks for the pics.
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Cool way of cutting down a bushing!
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oil pressure and water temp..
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I probably already know the answer but I would like to see what everyone here thinks....
I have both the 440 Radiator and the 6bt Radiator.
Core sizes
440 - 22.25" wide 18.5" tall 3" deep
6bt - 26.5" w 21" t 2.5"d
As a cube, the 440 has 1234.875" the 6bt has 1391.25"
So, again probably kind of dumb asking but I feel like older radiators worked better at cooling. If this is the case I feel like the 440 would be the better of the two because it would do as good of job as the newer 6bt rad, and would be easier to mount.
What say ye?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170613/05eda1ec934a85d247f24d5d47700995.jpg)
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The 440 has vertical flow, and the 6bt has horizontal flow - I'm thinking there's a reason the newer one is horizontal flow? Might it be that it cools more efficiently? Newer one also has more surface area, but do they have the same capacity?
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Bro, I'd recommend staying with the crossflow 6bt unit. They seem to work, its larger, greater capacity, more cooling finnage, easily replaced...
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at least your not wearing mandals like somebody else we all know.....................
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Cuda, no idea on any of that.... probably some truth to the horizontal flow being mo better but I don't really know.
Chief, leaning that way trying to figure out how to put the two front clips together to become one, so I can get the 74 lights and grill, but 92 rad and intercooler. Also, this Radiator that was in 92 is not factory it has a sticker on it that I can't fully make out, other than it is not the factory rad.
Nate, I used to wear boots or keens and that was about it. This summer flip flops have won out.... almost all the time. I only put boots on if I'm going to be on the road for more than 20 minutes. Which is rare.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Bro, I'd recommend staying with the crossflow 6bt unit. They seem to work, its larger, greater capacity, more cooling finnage, easily replaced...
they came in front of those engines for a reason. and.. as previously stated, easily available in the aluminum flavor. and all the hoses will work. etc.
if it can be easily done, do it
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Definately the newer one. Crossflow is much more thermally efficient....that and also fin count per inch.