REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => General Vehicle Related Discussion => Topic started by: KensAuto on September 15, 2014, 10:55:21 AM
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I purchased this 'tool' to help me in my quest for meat, the deer and elk I hunt, and to create a bit of fun for the family of 4 girls and a wife. I realized in a short matter of time that it was severely underpowered for such a large sxs. After 2 years of dealing with this pig, I did some research and found out that Polaris had installed a restrictor in the air intake path, which I promptly removed.
That was the first upgrade, supposedly +10hp, but it wasn't enough for Ken (me).......
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...and this is the restricter.
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I'm going to back up a bit, to the beginning of this quest, actually the cause of this quest, for power.
I took a couple of my overweight buddies up north for a guy's weekend in this quiet little town in a remote valley, where you can ride around (without leo harassment), watch the rodeo, scout for game, etc. Well, the "Pig Ranger" almost burnt down....not really, but climbing hills with 3836lbs of passengers (3 guys total and I'm a buck seventy) the fuel in the tank started boiling every time we stopped and the rear seat melted in half from the heat.
So, the first thing I did was price the seat bottom....close to 5 bills!!! Uh, NO. I will fix it, because quite frankly, that's what a real man would do, right?
First, I removed the cushion, which required removing aprox. 67,000 staples.
Using a propane torch, I remolded the seat to make it flat again (no pics, but the seat had a 3" dip to it from my buddies rump forcing it down).
After that, I pie cut some 3/4" square tubing to lay in and follow the groove/channel that was molded in to the seat, then used 1/4" rivets to fasten.
The second pic shows the thin plate I cut to fit that side of the seat....it comes from some old shelving that was laying out back in the scrap pile.
After everything was riveted, some self-stick heat barrier was added, in the third pic.
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...and a pic of a completed seat, restapled of course.
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Next up was to remove the restrictor from the air intake duct, no pics, but pretty straight forward....oh what a difference!!!!
...but, how about upgrading the cooling system, because we all know, usually more power equals more heat.
..So, lets put an oil cooler in, increasing the capacity from 2 qts to about 3.5. I ran the lines to a remote filter housing, so #1 it would hold more oil with a larger filter, and #2 it will be easier to access.
The second pic shows the rock shield fabbed and installed (the filter is now in front of the left rear tire).
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I then installed the oil cooler on the left side, under the rear seat, with a thermostatically controlled fan, and an independent fan on the right side, with it's own thermostat, which can be manually engaged from a switch on the dash. This fan blows air across the exhaust directly under the side of the seat that melted. I then drill 45,000 holes in front of the cooler/fans, where the passenger legs are, so that they (the fans, not the passengers!) have access to fresh, cooler, air. While I was at it, I added heat barrier/blanket to the fuel tank and wrapped the fuel line with heat tape.
(http://i.imgur.com/cpO9hyJ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/omyg0Hp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/JT427iS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/JGCTm8a.jpg)
...then the exhaust came out and got heat wrapped (it's a shame I ended up cutting it up later).
(http://i.imgur.com/mBkjbus.jpg)
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This is where I decided that either my buddies needed to lose weight, get their own Ranger, or Ken (me) needs to add more power, the last option was the only real possibility....so...., checking the web, I find ranger turbo kits going for $3-6k. At this point in time I don't have 3-6k to blow on a toy.....SO.....my employee Tyeler, brings this little gem into work one morning. It's off of a Mitsubishi eclipse...but, wait a minute, it's made by Garrett, a T25 I think. He proceeds to tell me they're about a dime a dozen because they're to small and everyone throws them in the trash.
"Perfect" I say with a grin.
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I'm liking this! ;)
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AWESOME!! Great to see this stuff already up. Don you've got quite the crew rounded up here.
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Next step was to remove the old exhaust, cut the rear half out, and mount the turbo in line, with the compressor outlet pointed towards the throttle body. I ordered up some stainless flanges specific to the t25 turbo for under 30 bucks, and proceeded to build the exhaust inlet and a temporary outlet with a straight pipe and wideband sensor bung (fancy oxygen sensor) for the tuner that will be installed.
(http://i.imgur.com/3G6D5DC.jpg?1)
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The largest challenge I had to overcome was trying to keep the factory air cleaner close to the original location. I believe that the oem filtration is superior to the aftermarkets available as they gather clean air from the front of the ranger. That may cost me some performance but durability is still my first priority.
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...and with a few silicone boots, stainless band clamps, and a bit of welding, the turbo looks functional. Next up, I ordered a stainless oil feed line long enough to reach the front of the block...the only source of pressurized oil. I then removed the oil dipstick tube to weld on a drain pipe for the return side of the turbo.
...I didn't plan on doing a build thread on this job, so I'm having trouble rounding up pics from 2 different phones and a camera.
More to come: Ken finds out a stock clutch doesn't get along with the turbo, installing a tuner and my first time writing fuel tables :-\ and the straight pipe is too loud, must find a shiny muffler.
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Looks good, that extra oil and a cooler will pay off for sure.
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Here's a pic of the oil lines behind the drive belt/clutch area.
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After reading up on utv clutches, I decided to go with one from DDP for it's adjustability. They have you give them the specs (turbo?, how many passengers, load weight, etc.) and they set it up for that. After 3 tries, I got it fine tuned the way I want it.
Only one pic and it's of the secondary clutch and the box of weights for the primary. :-[
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For the tuner, there's not to many options, so here's the pics of the PC5 and the autotune that makes it sooo much easier to tune. It uses that wideband sensor to automatically correct the fuel trims while you're driving. I mounted it under the rear seat, close to the factory computer. Note: this is a piggyback system, not stand alone, meaning it just makes changes to the factory settings in the factory computer.
(http://i.imgur.com/200TYUX.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/JtJl2Nw.jpg)
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mmm... turbo ranger. 8)
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They have you give them the specs (turbo?, how many passengers, load weight, etc.) and they set it up for that.
So do you over estimate the weight of passengers and gear that you've had, or plan on carrying or give a best guess and go from there?
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It's not that specific, but basically he built it for low end, so if I had it loaded up with an elk and 800lbs of man, it wouldn't burn up the belt just trying to get moving. I had to change it a little because the engine tached out quicker than the primary clutch could fully engage. It really was the best mod out of everything I did....and now...with his setup, I have decel braking. The oem clutch wouldn't hold you back on a steep decent unless you held the rpms up to keep it engaged.
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I see.
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I was telling Tyeler that I was going to put one of those funky ricer pipes on the back, about 4' long at a 45* angle, with a flapper on it. I pretended to stick this one on it from my old gas compressor. He just shook his head.
(http://i.imgur.com/UZcYopc.jpg)
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After searching some more (not too many people put turbos on a Ranger...go figure), I realized a bolt on muffler was out of the question. I ended up finding this one for a vrf800 interceptor. It has a 2" inlet, only 13" long, seems to be of high quality, and it wasn't 3-600 bucks like most bolt on setups. After rebuilding the tail section of the turbo outlet, the muffler fit right in.....
(http://i.imgur.com/Sx62X8G.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/c0GSF2N.jpg)
...but then I realized the bed, once installed, would hit the muffler when tilted up. Out came the grinder. (much easier than turning the muffler sideways, which is what I had originally planned).
(http://i.imgur.com/F6EKfBS.jpg?2)
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All together, now time for test and tune.
...and right away, we had too much boost....10-11lbs. Out came the wastegate, cut the rod in half, took out an 1/8" of the rod, threaded it to 1/4", and made it adjustable with a long nut and 2 jam nuts.
excuse the blurry pic, I had to zoom in.
(http://i.imgur.com/pBUFpnA.jpg?1)
After getting the boost down to 5-6psi (again DURABILITY is #1), and playing with the fuel/timing tables, she came out really nice. Smooth power all the way to 7200rpms (oh yeah, the factory had that set at a very limited 5600), and it has very smooth clutch transitions throughout the rpms.
Going from about 35 rwhp to aprox. 50rwhp sure made Ken a happy camper.
Now, time to tear it all apart for paint and powdercoat, and get it back together before elk season!
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Next step was to remove the old exhaust, cut the rear half out, and mount the turbo in line, with the compressor outlet pointed towards the throttle body. I ordered up some stainless flanges specific to the t25 turbo for under 30 bucks, and proceeded to build the exhaust inlet and a temporary outlet with a straight pipe and wideband sensor bung (fancy oxygen sensor) for the tuner that will be installed.
(http://i.imgur.com/3G6D5DC.jpg?1)
Now that looks cool!
BK, you think one of those tiny turbos would be a good fit for my gator project? Even with 50 HP, which isn't much, I'll admit, it's a pig
Chery (Chinaman) engine, well, actually Chevy, is a 3 cyl H2O cooled auto engine.
I want to turbo it and would be a good winter project.
Can you find one of those turbos out there in the desert?
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I was telling Tyeler that I was going to put one of those funky ricer pipes on the back, about 4' long at a 45* angle, with a flapper on it. I pretended to stick this one on it from my old gas compressor. He just shook his head.
(http://i.imgur.com/UZcYopc.jpg)
That's pure tractor, man!
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Next step was to remove the old exhaust, cut the rear half out, and mount the turbo in line, with the compressor outlet pointed towards the throttle body. I ordered up some stainless flanges specific to the t25 turbo for under 30 bucks, and proceeded to build the exhaust inlet and a temporary outlet with a straight pipe and wideband sensor bung (fancy oxygen sensor) for the tuner that will be installed.
(http://i.imgur.com/3G6D5DC.jpg?1)
Now that looks cool!
BK, you think one of those tiny turbos would be a good fit for my gator project? Even with 50 HP, which isn't much, I'll admit, it's a pig
Chery (Chinaman) engine, well, actually Chevy, is a 3 cyl H2O cooled auto engine.
I want to turbo it and would be a good winter project.
Can you find one of those turbos out there in the desert?
I'll talk to my guy when I get back in town. I think it would be perfect. On a short vacation in Alaska right now. ...my wife's giving me crud for being on here ....instead of giving her attention. Lol
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gotcha
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After running the ranger for a couple weeks, allowing the Autotune to do it's job, I was completely impressed with the outcome. Smooth and very driveable. Next, I loaded up 4 of my buddies plus myself, and took to the desert with 100* ambient temp. No overheating (although we haven't tried the mountains yet), plenty of power, and she even spins BOTH rear tires (in dirt). That may not sound like much, but it would never do that, even with just myself in the vehicle....not even around a corner!
So, with testing and tuning complete, I felt it was time for some paint and powder coating. Here's a pic of all of the pieces laid out, and marked with the different colors I thought I would like them coated.....until I received the price quote.
(http://i.imgur.com/bje4yGX.jpg)
I decided to smooth out the compressor housing before coating:
(http://i.imgur.com/3o9gYSP.jpg)
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Originally I wanted the high temp parts ceramic coated black, and the 'cold' parts something like bright orange just for fun. I soon learned there is separate charges for different colors, so I decided to do them all in ceramic. After talking with the owner about this "special" coating that he uses on pistons, valves, turbos, etc.(including his airplane and gyro copters) that holds in heat better than anything on the market, we went with that. It also looks kinda cool, almost an olive drab/metallic color.
(http://i.imgur.com/6tuG7RG.jpg)
While I had it apart, I realized that the main welded support for the turbo (1/4" angle) would make it impossible to remove the transmission, if that day where to come. It was chopped out and made removable with 3 large bolts.
(http://i.imgur.com/GQ1Pq1c.jpg)
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Next was taping off and plugging holes on the turbo itself. It received a beadblast treatment, making it as happy as my wife at a day spa.
(http://i.imgur.com/fpOD657.jpg)
...then a healthy coat (actually 4) of urethane. While I was at it, all of the spots on the ranger that where welded upon, received the same.
The turbo was then assembled. Note to self: mark everything next time. :(
(http://i.imgur.com/PxN6JpX.jpg)
The inlet pipe, which wraps around a section of frame, was wrapped with high temp header wrap, then tied off with stainless straps.
(http://i.imgur.com/HXhgEoL.jpg)
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This little gem was made to hold the 3 bar map sensor that came with the tuner, that will measure boost. It will be placed directly in front of the turbo. I originally placed it close to the throttle body, about 10" from the compressor housing, and the pulsations from the engine's intake valves where affecting the sensor's readings bad enough that the system wouldn't tune properly. Moving it back to the turbo helped considerably.
(http://i.imgur.com/7YjCPA7.jpg)
Here is the Map sensor that came with the tuner:
(http://i.imgur.com/QHujXyp.jpg)
...and mated together:
(http://i.imgur.com/OrKOX9V.jpg)
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Here's the wastegate pod:
(http://i.imgur.com/uxjodie.jpg)
...and a couple during reassembly:
(http://i.imgur.com/kFKIHxi.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/SMFGz14.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/chjvCuD.jpg)
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Done!!!
(http://i.imgur.com/MZ1095T.jpg?1)
..This is a pic of the muffler during mockup.....forgot to take one after final assembly.
(http://i.imgur.com/Tpiu5Zb.jpg)
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Ken, that is some outstanding fab
Coating looks titanium
Digging the triangle exhaust
OK, so which turbo do I need for the gator?
Gotta do that as well.
Right now I can pull 44mph
I think I need around 60 as a sprint speed goal with being able to pull 45 up grades with 4 folks
I hate it that I will be buying a special clutch, but n other way I think
Now having said that, I was looking at a big bike engine...wondering if I slid a 1300cc with a 6 speed in those rails somehow...
Very nice work there Special K!
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Don, I was reading up on a gator forum, and from what I gathered, there isn't a whole lot in the way of gator performance parts out there. Now, I guess there is a Power Commander 5 (like what I used) for it, but not for a turbo setup. To tune it correctly, it needs to use a pressure (map) sensor, that came with my version. With the one made for the gator, you would have to add a sensor to the analog input (not difficult), input the sensor's
range, and build your own fuel maps (Power commander doesn't list a turbo gator map and I couldn't locate one anywhere on the web). As far as the clutch goes, after today, I would say the new clutch made the most difference out of the mods done.
Turbo specs: 95-99 Mitsubishi eclipse or 95-98 eagle talon factory turbos.
Garrett T25
60 trim
405cfm
the dimensions Tyeler gave me (off of a turbo rebuilder's site) did not match mine.
His dimensions were:
1.66"/42 mm inlet
2.14/54.4mm outlet
...I used 2" boots on both the inlet (from air cleaner) and outlet (to throttle body)
Here is one of a couple listed on fleebay right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-99-mitsubishi-eclipse-garrett-t25-turbo-/251668822310
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Maybe it's time for an upgrade????
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Did you add any heat shielding where you trimmed for the muffler? Looks like composite of some type.
Maybe turbo the bikes,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Did you add any heat shielding where you trimmed for the muffler? Looks like composite of some type.
Maybe turbo the bikes,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Yes, I added some matting, but only for when the bed is tilted up. Every time I tilted the bed to show someone the outcome, and the muffler was hot, it melted plastic onto the muffler. :(
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Decided to build my own spare tire mount. Just wanted something different.
Had some scrap 1" rigid conduit and a bender....slicing, dicing, and welding is all it took.
(http://i.imgur.com/tj1uEQp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/SriNndm.jpg)
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Good looking job there Ken!
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Thank you kind sir, uhh, I mean Don. haha
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Ordered some new shoes, sight unseen. They turned out to be smaller than advertised, and smaller than the originals. The crew is long and low to start with, so I was quite disappointed with the purchase.......
(http://i.imgur.com/eCt4T6q.jpg)
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.....so I talked my buddy into buying them from me so I could get these...
(http://i.imgur.com/7eFBKeT.jpg)
...these are rear tires. The one on the left is the same as factory (numbers wise) 26x11x12, and the new ones are 27x12x12. Much better.
(http://i.imgur.com/1Ww9sBN.jpg)
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I guess I should've called this a build thread. :o
..On to the next project. As anyone with a SXS knows, it's tough to keep the dust from boiling up from the rear of the machine. The crews are even worse, especially for the rear passengers. There's really only a couple ways to "cure" this, and I use that word loosely....you can refrain from putting in a full front windshield and try to stay out of bad weather, or install some form of rear windshield. When I purchased this thing, I wanted the best for up front...something that wouldn't scratch when wiping it off or break when driving thru mesquite thickets. I chose a factory glass full flip up windshield that also has a stop, when about 6", open that reduces the low pressure inside, keeping most dust out at speeds up to 25mph.
This is fine and dandy for those rainless 75* days when just putting around the desert.....but I have an elk hunt coming up in late November at 6500-7000ft elevation.
To end this novel : I decided to build a rear dust screen instead of buying one (next time I might just buy one).
...started off with an old aluminum business sign and started cutting it to fit the lower part of the cab, behind the front of the bed (where most of the dust enters)
(http://i.imgur.com/rUeX2Fc.jpg)
...trial fitment and contoured edges...forgot about the recently fabbed mudflaps also in this pic (NOTE to Polaris; these should have forward mudflaps from the factory!!!). I got tired of cleaning out a mud caked fuel tank.
(http://i.imgur.com/jlq0z9j.jpg)
the hole in the center is an air breather for the belt drive system.
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After removing the plate, it was promptly sanded, painted black on both sides, and undercoated on the forward facing side to cut down on vibrations/rattles. (actually I did it because I was to lazy to grind off all of the 20 yr old stickers)
(http://i.imgur.com/Pz6zqxJ.jpg)
Then came the 1/8" plexiglass. I originally wanted 1/4" but figured it would have to be built in 2 pieces because it needed a 30ish degree bend. "I should be able to bend 1/8" like it was cardboard" (this is what Ken said to his employee 2 days ago)
....I started at the top with multiple rubber washered screws (predrilling of coarse!)
(http://i.imgur.com/yPcNcWB.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Xl5kPpG.jpg)
....very long story made short, I cracked that son of a gun a total of 4 times, even after letting it sit in 95* Az sun, using a heatgun and a propane torch at the same time! urrrr. I think this was where I said some things not fit for readers of this forum.
Today I started over by welding a cross beam, 2" angle, at the top so the glass would lay flat instead of on a pipe .
.....and of course I don't have any of those pics because I was not happy at the time.
here's the finished product yesterday, cracks and all....lucky I can't see them in the pics.
(http://i.imgur.com/6qVwAy0.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/e44vf76.jpg)
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Clever idea there ken
The cracks don't show up, and this isn't a show piece, it's a working vehicle, so maybe you just go with it. That is, I'd probably make a trip out into the boonies with it and see how it holds up. If it starts to shatter, then, well, you'll have to come up with plan "B". If not, then maybe you're done for a season.
Tires look good!
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thanks....so far so good.
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Added some backup lights. They are the same as what I used on my truck, Ecco leds. Very low amp draw.
What's cool is that Polaris has wires in the rear from the factory, power and ground, and the ground only works in reverse (someone told me it's setup for a backup beaper). Plug the lights in an that's it.
(http://i.imgur.com/Qb3L5Y1.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/IeylBXN.jpg)
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I thought to myself, "what's better than 2 lights?".....
....an hour later I was hooking up these fog lights, that I had in the shed for some reason. They were mounted above the rear window to light up the bed. It's on a switch that works with the key off.
(http://i.imgur.com/KzkZ18C.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/8tywxXs.jpg)
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I think these little utility vehicles are so cool, and seeing you guys mod them is giving me all sorts of ideas for down the road!
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Today I was admiring the ranger sittin' there and decided that it was still to low to the ground for my taste, even with the taller tires and after moving the shocks to the outward holes.(Rangers have 2 top mounting holes, one inboard and one outboard...the outboard ones raise the vehicle up about an inch but changes the angle of the shock, causing a slightly harsher ride.) After some thought, I decided to fabricate some ears that would weld in, between and below the factory holes. This would give me about 1-3/4" of lift without destroying the axles (I hope).
....here's the flat stock marked out with 8 brackets, some of which were already cut.
(http://i.imgur.com/ncvAxoN.jpg)
...and after welding them in. Topped off with a touch of spray paint, black of course.
(http://i.imgur.com/qFvojVu.jpg)
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I think these little utility vehicles are so cool, and seeing you guys mod them is giving me all sorts of ideas for down the road!
I was quite happy with my old Willys, and then a Samurai, until I rode in one of these. I would've had one years ago if I knew how smooth and capable they were. Just sold the Sammy a couple weeks ago!
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Before the makeshift lift, the floorboards were at 12" from the ground....
(http://i.imgur.com/5oyBkOG.jpg)
...now I have almost 14". Should help this long boat a bit, yet still be somewhat stable on side hills.
(http://i.imgur.com/BA0y402.jpg)
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I added this handy dandy monitor/gauge pod to keep an eye on things. It's a POD200 made specifically to work with the PC5 tuner....plug and play....except for the fact that it only comes with a 6' data cable, proprietary of course. I had to cut off the plug and extend the cable a few feet so I could mount the Pod near the shifter.
The left gauge shows fuel ratio and the right shows boost. the smaller pids show rpm, injector duty cycle, fuel % added, and throttle %....all customizable. I can also use it to store 2 different tunes and use it to log data.
(http://i.imgur.com/JawCMm9.jpg)
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I was thinking to myself, "My eyes aren't that great, I may need more lighting for this upcoming elk hunt and Amazon is only a click away".....
.......so I happened across one of the cheapest 50" light bars I've ever seen, and promptly purchased it.
There's no way I would EVER pay 1600 for a name brand light, and even the 400.00 ones were nothing more than a pipe dream, but for 130.00 I couldn't say no.
Here it is, in the only place it would fit, below the windshield.
I had to partially remove the windshield assembly to install nuts from the backside:
(http://i.imgur.com/QWTV7a6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/SQ47zWW.jpg)
...it's wired in with the small rigid cubes.
(http://i.imgur.com/ODuY1da.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/254fv2V.jpg)
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Follow up:
After a trip to the mountains, carrying my fat....urrr.....larger-than-life friends, tools, spare, and a heavy ice chest, the Ranger did pretty well. It would accelerate uphill, never heated up, and ran like it should the entire time. The small lift and larger tires helped quite a bit more than expected. I give it a 9.5 out of 10. It would have received a higher score if Ken would've installed a heater before that trip!
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can you share where you bought that LED bar from? i'm currently in the market for one.
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I'm liking it Ken
That light for $130 is a deal.
I have purchased a bunch of those less expensive light bars and have had nary a failure yet
Great work!
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can you share where you bought that LED bar from? i'm currently in the market for one.
I guess I exaggerated, it was 140...and it's a 52" bar.
http://www.amazon.com/Eyourlife-30000LM-Light-100pcs-intensity/dp/B00F4MQJ5O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417786838&sr=8-2&keywords=52%22+light+bar
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Well, we'll take 10 points off for underpricing it by $10, but we have to give you 10 points for the extra 2" in length over the reported 50"...so I guess we're even!
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I guess I exaggerated, it was 140...and it's a 52" bar.
http://www.amazon.com/Eyourlife-30000LM-Light-100pcs-intensity/dp/B00F4MQJ5O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417786838&sr=8-2&keywords=52%22+light+bar
I think, I might have to buy myself a Xmas gift... Skip a couple steps in XJ's fix up schedule and add LIGHT!
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Do it!!
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Do it!!
Thinking about it. But might go with a 42" to stay between the cargo rails. Undecided on how a 52" would look, since it'll take up the entire roofline.
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Do it!!
Thinking about it. But might go with a 42" to stay between the cargo rails. Undecided on how a 52" would look, since it'll take up the entire roofline.
It will look bright! :D
But in all fairness, pick the one that fits best for you.
Either way don't think you'll be disappointed, you can never have too much light.
I did the all on mod in my truck with 4300k HID's, all my buddy's can't believe the light.
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It will look bright! :D
But in all fairness, pick the one that fits best for you.
Either way don't think you'll be disappointed, you can never have too much light.
I did the all on mod in my truck with 4300k HID's, all my buddy's can't believe the light.
Between the cargo rails it's 42", and gutter to gutter it's 54.6" If I'm remembering correctly. Either way will be nice due to the extra light. Maybe a 52" up front and the 46" on the bumper!
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Now you're just talkin' crazy!
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Now you're just talkin' crazy!
Need we all be reminded of CMax, D2, Big Red, TacGator...
Lol, all that extra light will come in handy when I have to go to work in a blizzard, where I can't see more than 10' , all because someone or multiple people "can't make it to work.." Plus those lights are Made In The USA... so you know... can't say no.
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It sure is nice to have some lights that can't be outdriven. We were going down the windy dirt road, before sunrise, at 30-35mph, and switched the 52" off, leaving just the high beams on, and I lost the road REAL fast.....we could only do 15mph with the stock lights.
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It sure is nice to have some lights that can't be outdriven. We were going down the windy dirt road, before sunrise, at 30-35mph, and switched the 52" off, leaving just the high beams on, and I lost the road REAL fast.....we could only do 15mph with the stock lights.
Got any night pics of the light bar? And the light output?
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Not yet..........
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Nice deal on the light and good job all around.
So no pics on the light but how does it work?
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Still no pics, haven't had time to clean out the hunting carnage....but it works great. I will admit, though, I haven't seen a name brand in person to be able to compare outputs.
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Darn, I forgot to get some night pics......have to work on that.
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Any recent pics? Night pics of the light bar? How has it held up to use? Any diodes die? Water infiltrate? Inquiring minds wish to know, before they spend money on things that may or may not be for a certain black rusty XJ....
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So far so good. I used them a bunch on that elk hunt, but they haven't seen any rain yet, so I can't speak for how they hold up to moisture.
I went out tonight, just for you Bobby (ok, and maybe for myself).
The first 2 are factory low beam only:
(http://i.imgur.com/7EG76Nr.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/JjoAj0l.jpg)
...high beam:
(http://i.imgur.com/BsNTS22.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/MvVBxoK.jpg)
....and Leds (the cubes are also on, but pretty sure they don't make a difference):
(http://i.imgur.com/AtT8RMr.jpg)
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This shows peripheral lighting.
Regular lights :
(http://i.imgur.com/86nRYyr.jpg)
...52 incher:
(http://i.imgur.com/Az0D7ti.jpg)
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Well now...that about answers those questions.
I loved Arizona when I was there...
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Hey. For what it's worth. Here are some pics of the 21" light bars I put on my tractor. I'm not planning high speed so I just wanted enough to light up the night for plowing. I have one pointing forward and one reverse. They fill the bill.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8RYGOI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Nice.
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Hey. For what it's worth. Here are some pics of the 21" light bars I put on my tractor. I'm not planning high speed so I just wanted enough to light up the night for plowing. I have one pointing forward and one reverse. They fill the bill.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8RYGOI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I missed this post...those put out some nice light, enough to show me that I wouldn't wanna be doing what you're doing, or where you're doing it!
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Went back to the mountains a couple weeks ago, the same ones that forced me (against my will) to install a turbo last year. I actually was able to keep up with the other toys on this trip....well worth the investment I think. Here's a couple pics:
(http://i.imgur.com/qLMBJTN.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/kZecBFw.jpg)
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...couple more of redneck friends:
(http://i.imgur.com/kZecBFw.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/tAtkoI2.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ealY0GE.jpg)
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What's the black buggy on the left with the gentleman in the tan shirt standing in front of it? I need a utv like a dead man needs a coffin for my work but it's not in the cards this year. Next year I'm planning on getting one.
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I already forgot the name of it, but it was super cool. It had a 3 cylinder with a 5 speed, nice doors, dash, etc.
It was the talk of the town every time we stopped somewhere.
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https://oreionmotors.com/reeper (https://oreionmotors.com/reeper)
That was enough info. Chinese utv that appears to be street legal. Very interesting.
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Sure is a Gucci looking little machine.
Ken, glad to hear your upgrade paid off for you!
I hate hearing when someone tries or does something like you've done and it only kind of worked, or still kicked their butt.
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Thanks Sam.
You know what p***** me off? In 2014 , polaris found a way around that stupid law (the one that limited power to 40hp). They made it a 5 passenger instead of 6....that's it...no majic. ..so, the 900 has like 62hp stock. urrrr
My buddy took his stock 2014 crew 900 along on that trip, carried more weight (read: fat guys and human 12oz coolant), and still had a bit more power than me.
That hurt my ego a little amount.....maybe more than a little.
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Twin turbo???
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Twin turbo???
And more fuel!
Seriously a bummer on the stupidity of the laws. Is there any way to get the computer flashed?
Say from a 2014 machine, add to that the turbo you now have and whoa buddy.
Might not be doable tho.
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They redesigned the engine in '14. :(
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They redesigned the engine in '14. :(
Engine swap!!! ;D
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6bt! Sense a theme?
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take the bed off and shoe horn a blown 502 in there
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Naw, stay with a twin turbo 6BT :)
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How in the world did you guys go from an extra turbo to big block chevys and twinned CumminGs? All of you are bad influences !!!
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Seriously, I bet a 4bt would fit.
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I've never even seen a 4bt in person. There may not be any in Az for all I know. lol
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Ebay and UPS. Problem solved
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I've never even seen a 4bt in person. There may not be any in Az for all I know. lol
I'm sure there are, when I was in AZ I saw quite a few delivery trucks and food trucks with them in the engine bay.
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Seriously, I bet a 4bt would fit.
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You crazy G.I.
Dunno RN, a 4BT would be pretty stout (BIG)
Now if they had made a 2BT or a 3BT...
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I have a cutting torch and a big hammer.....jus sayin
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