REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => General Vehicle Related Discussion => Topic started by: dave945 on October 16, 2018, 10:45:24 PM
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So I had to drive the blazer for a week or so while the Honda Odyssey was down waiting for radiator and fan replacement. It highlighted some issues that need to be resolved. Just for some background, it’s got a 5 liter v8 with a 700R4 transmission and NP208 transfer case, and sits on 3/4 ton axles front and rear. Here are the issues I noticed over the couple days I drove into the office 60 miles each way.
1) engine was boiling the coolant out and onto the overflow. Think I may have a stuck thermostat.
2). Transmission is leaking some and not shifting very cleanly/consistently. This tranny was rebuilt maybe five years ago, I’m doubting the quality of the rebuild.
3). Vibration/groaning on letting off the gas pedal at higher speeds. Seems like it might be coming from the driveshaft area, but not sure yet.
4). Steering is loose/has a lot of play in it.
5). Brakes tend to be a little touchy, I’m guessing it has to do with the large drums in the rear on the 14 bolt FF axle.
My goal is to get the truck into a condition where daily driving is possible and even comfortable. Optimally, it would be solid enough for my wife to be comfortable driving it. We’ll see how it goes.
I don’t have any set plans at this point and I’m open to ideas and suggestions. I’ll try to keep this updated as work gets done.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/6a5a8ea048a21ff909d1543d7934af10.jpg)
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3) u-joint or u-joints
5) I have a disc conversion kit for that axle, regardless a $40 Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve might help
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Start with a oil change. End with a parking lot land mark
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Start with a oil change. End with a parking lot land mark
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Oil change.....so you’re saying I should do a duramax conversion with Allison transmission and put portal axles in? I’ll have to consider it. At least I know where a diesel shop is, there’s a big green landmark already there.
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3) u-joint or u-joints
5) I have a disc conversion kit for that axle, regardless a $40 Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve might help
I’ll check the u joints on the driveshaft. I need to check my angles too, something i keep telling myself to do.
How much is the disc conversion kit? I’ve considered doing that before just to shave 100 pounds off the rear axle.
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Bracket kit & mounting hardware $50, then depending on auto parts another couple hundy but I provide all part numbers and you can source from rock auto or whomever etc.
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Sounds good. I’m going to start busting knuckles on it this week and see if there is anything else I need that before I order, you never know what might come out of this project.
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Agree with Shawn, probably ujoints or slip yoke...or you left the hubs locked in the last time you went wheelin'..
Trans issue could be the TV cable adjustment. It's different than a "kickdown" cable and has to be adjusted just right or it will shift funky.
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Also could be pinion bearings :cry: Get the rear axle up on jackstands and have the wife accelerate then let off the gas and listen near the pinion support. Deceleration noise is typically loss of preload and bearings buzzing while the pinion gear runs in an "off" spot on the ring gear coast side.
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Also could be pinion bearings :cry: Get the rear axle up on jackstands and have the wife accelerate then let off the gas and listen near the pinion support. Deceleration noise is typically loss of preload and bearings buzzing while the pinion gear runs in an "off" spot on the ring gear coast side.
Jeez, that escalated quickly. lol
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You know those differential sales guys..... :popcorn:
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Also could be pinion bearings :cry: Get the rear axle up on jackstands and have the wife accelerate then let off the gas and listen near the pinion support. Deceleration noise is typically loss of preload and bearings buzzing while the pinion gear runs in an "off" spot on the ring gear coast side.
Am i the only one that finds that method a bit odd....?
- put rear axle on jack stands
- stick entire body under said vehicle
- have WIFE put it in drive (and hope its not reverse)
- smash gas pedal (pray shes not pissed at you or been watching too many murder tv shows)
- then listen for noise with head next to axle
?
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Could also be the magnetic resonance transverse wave focusing on the variometric spinning bearing in a sheroid, elliptically modified orbit,
Or what they said...
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Also could be pinion bearings :cry: Get the rear axle up on jackstands and have the wife accelerate then let off the gas and listen near the pinion support. Deceleration noise is typically loss of preload and bearings buzzing while the pinion gear runs in an "off" spot on the ring gear coast side.
Am i the only one that finds that method a bit odd....?
- put rear axle on jack stands
- stick entire body under said vehicle
- have WIFE put it in drive (and hope its not reverse)
- smash gas pedal (pray shes not pissed at you or been watching too many murder tv shows)
- then listen for noise with head next to axle
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What's wrong with any of that?
I don't get it
Makes sense to me
Derrrr....
;-)
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Also could be pinion bearings :cry: Get the rear axle up on jackstands and have the wife accelerate then let off the gas and listen near the pinion support. Deceleration noise is typically loss of preload and bearings buzzing while the pinion gear runs in an "off" spot on the ring gear coast side.
Should it be in 4 wheel drive when she punches it? That would help with Nate’s concerns above.
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Also could be pinion bearings :cry: Get the rear axle up on jackstands and have the wife accelerate then let off the gas and listen near the pinion support. Deceleration noise is typically loss of preload and bearings buzzing while the pinion gear runs in an "off" spot on the ring gear coast side.
Am i the only one that finds that method a bit odd....?
- put rear axle on jack stands
- stick entire body under said vehicle
- have WIFE put it in drive (and hope its not reverse)
- smash gas pedal (pray shes not pissed at you or been watching too many murder tv shows)
- then listen for noise with head next to axle
?
Only strange to those with Ex's I suppose :shocked:
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You know those differential sales guys..... :popcorn:
Just for that, I'll be sponsoring Dave's rebuild when he finds the bad bearings. :tongue:
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OK, you have that.
I'll handle the prayer request thread for Dave's recovery!
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You know those differential sales guys..... :popcorn:
Just for that, I'll be sponsoring Dave's rebuild when he finds the bad bearings. :tongue:
I just read free u-joints! Sweet
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You know those differential sales guys..... :popcorn:
Just for that, I'll be sponsoring Dave's rebuild when he finds the bad bearings. :tongue:
I just read free u-joints! Sweet
I think you misread, he said he would sponsor the rebuild, he didn’t put any limitations on it. This is gonna be a sweet ride. So would a ball peen hammer or a five pound sledge be the best way to “discreetly” cause bad bearings?
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Well, I read FULL sponsorship too!
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Just get the lube serviced by Jiffy Lube. They'll put in waste oil and the rest will be history
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Yeah, what’s the update on that anyhow?
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Get that Alison trans ordered yet?
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Also could be pinion bearings :cry: Get the rear axle up on jackstands and have the wife accelerate then let off the gas and listen near the pinion support. Deceleration noise is typically loss of preload and bearings buzzing while the pinion gear runs in an "off" spot on the ring gear coast side.
Am i the only one that finds that method a bit odd....?
- put rear axle on jack stands
- stick entire body under said vehicle
- have WIFE put it in drive (and hope its not reverse)
- smash gas pedal (pray shes not pissed at you or been watching too many murder tv shows)
- then listen for noise with head next to axle
?
Thats how I found the vibration on my pickup.
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Thank you Jon, now I feel validated :cool:
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Okay, so this thread does a temporary death. But weather is turning nice and I’m wanting drive the k5 more again. I was looking online and found a 2016 6.0 L96 engine with 9k on it. Attached to the back is a 6L90 and a manual shift transfer case. The truck was totaled with a. Hit to the back end looks like. It would come with the harness, accessories, gas pedal and sensors. It’s currently still running and they are asking $6000. I know it’s a lot to stick into a 33 year old truck, but I don’t think I would have to do anything to it again after that. Until I have to do a fluid change.....
What do You all think? What else am I going to need? I figure exhaust, mounts, dash cluster(might be able to get that), drive shafts.....
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do you have pics of this wrecked truck?
and what is currently wrong with the blazer as it sits now?
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The 5.0 in the blazer is rather anemic, and it is tiring have to pump the far 15-20 times and then crank it to get it to start, then tease it with the gas pedal as it warms up. Not a daily driver so it sometimes sits for a while between driving it. That and the transmission(700r4) is finicky also, st cold start it doesn’t grab immediately when put in gear, rev the engine and it will eventually grab and go, after warming up it is better, but not great.
I’ll see if I can get a picture of the wrecked truck.
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My opinion sounds like a very pricey donor, do you have copart in your area? Things is the newer gm gas last drivetrains are good for a couple hundred k so why pay premium on a newer low mileage unit? Can you sell other parts off to recoup some of $6k investment?
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Great, now I’m looking at copart, only about twenty minutes away is a 2002 Silverado 1500 with a 5.3l.
Just another site to dig around on. :)
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:popcorn:
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I second Shawn. Seems high. You could duramax swap for that kind of coin
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Yes, copart is pure evil..... :evil: :beercheers:
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So there are several that are ending on Friday that have the 5.3L LS engine and one 2019 suburban with the 6.2L. Everything I’m looking at is 4wd, so I should be able to use the transmission as well. The fact it’s only 20 minutes from home is a definite plus.
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Yea, Dave, 6K is too much to spend. You'd have to add a bunch of other "k's" to that number before you drove the first mile.
Good used LS, then spend some money on it like I did which can add 100HP, then install that.
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I second Shawn. Seems high. You could duramax swap for that kind of coin
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Now you’ve got me thinking, there’s a 2007 2500 with duramax engine in it. No current bids on it.
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You’re welcome. I can spend other people’s money really well....
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Yep, just stick with the 5.3. The 6.0 way over priced and hit from the rear could mean the driveshaft got pushed into the tcase.
So may parts for all the LS motors and a stand alone harness is easy to find.
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I second Shawn. Seems high. You could duramax swap for that kind of coin
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Now you’ve got me thinking, there’s a 2007 2500 with duramax engine in it. No current bids on it.
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If this would have been two-three months ago, I think I may have just pulled the trigger on that D-Max engine for Ravin8. I doubt it remains a gasser indefinitely.
Oh and I started it up for the first time today...It sounds really healthy!
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So I was looking at the blazer today, the rear drum brakes are dragging, which explains some of the issues I was having. I saw a full float 24 bolt from a 2006 2500hd with 4.11 gears, which I think would match my front axle. The current owner is asking $300 for it. I would then have disc brakes with a parking brake. My other option would be replacing the drum brakes with disc on my existing axle. I’m leaning toward the 2500hd axle I’ll do some more looking tomorrow. Any thoughts from you fellows?
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You mean 14blt, right? The axle would be nice, but then you have 6 lug and 8 lug. Plus if its a later axle it maybe 170x8 vs 165x8. Probably a posi to but worth the upgrade.
I will have a 8 bolt front with 4;11 GM shortly you could have, but I fear you are a bit far.
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Yes, 14 bolt. I have 3/4 ton running gear on the front already that is 8 bolt, but didn’t think about the change to the bolt pattern. I’m pretty sure the axle is a 2006 which would still be 8x165.1. I’ll check on that and verify before I spend the money. My current rear axle is a gov lock 14 bolt from a 1985 2500 if I recall correctly.
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Dave, this 2006 if a gas motor 6.0 is the same axle I’m building for Don’s burb. It is still 8 on 6.5 and the older carrier and gears fit it. It’s slightly wider than your current rear which is 67” and this is 69” so wheel spacers to get the front back a bit wider than rear. Any questions let me know I sell a lot of these and $300 is more than fair. It does have gov bomb in it but Tate has parts to help with that.
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So what is/was the purpose of having the rear axle shorter than the front?
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So what is/was the purpose of having the rear axle shorter than the front?
For some reason GM has always done that. My burbs are the same way stock, with the dually front the rear is the same width now as my 14bt.
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So what is/was the purpose of having the rear axle shorter than the front?
That's a great question.
Supposed to be more stable in corners and a tighter turning radius, but I think that's an old myth. There's plenty of modern trucks with an even track width
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So what is/was the purpose of having the rear axle shorter than the front?
Tracks better down highway and for off-road purposes if your front end can get thru a tight space then so can the back end. You know the issue Ken’s GF has in that the back end is wider than front end....
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Better get Ken an 11.5 AAM,,,,,,,,,,,
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Dave, without even questioning it, I'd opt for the newer 14 bolt. You can live with the Gov-lock if you baby it, or prepare to replace it when it grenades.
I don't think you mentioned anything about the Master-Cylinder. You will need one for disc/disc. Any stock Chevy silverado would probably bolt right up. Do a little research to figure out which one would fit/ work best and you're on your way!
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Okay, so looking at the possible trip coming up. I found a 2002 Silverado, 5.3l 4x4, runs and drives. I’m thinking I should be able to take that truck, pull engine and trans and drop that In the blazer. I’ll have all the necessary parts, computer and harness that I should be able to get it up and running in time. New stock it would have been 285hp, which is a large improvement over the 5.0 that is in there now.
Any major concerns any of you have with this idea?
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Nope, it’s been done many times. You using the entire driveline, meaning trans and t-case too?
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This supported really well in the aftermarket. Bolt in mounts. Check out Merricks garage on youtube, he did a blazer. Way past the basics now but the swap is still there.
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Local shop here cfm industries has a bolt in mount kit for that I believe.
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Nope, it’s been done many times. You using the entire driveline, meaning trans and t-case too?
Yes, at least engine and transmission, replacing the 700r4 that has been nothing but problematic as of late. Wasn’t sure about the transfer case.
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Nope, it’s been done many times. You using the entire driveline, meaning trans and t-case too?
Yes, at least engine and transmission, replacing the 700r4 that has been nothing but problematic as of late. Wasn’t sure about the transfer case.
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Think you’ll need t-case too for the vss, you can adapt a 205 but it’s an expensive option to get it with vss as they only made it two years.
Edit: guess it’s not too expensive to mod a non vss case
https://www.offroaddesign.com/labor-to-machine-customer-s-np205-speedometer-housing-for-gm-vss-tone-wheel-plug-speed-sensor-and-pigtail-included.html
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You beat me to it Shawn, I was thinking the same.
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You beat me to it Shawn, I was thinking the same.
Also not sure what it takes to adapt a 205 to the 4L60E transmission. If you have an np203 case then the 241 (I think that’s what’s behind the 4L60E) is already an upgrade. Not quite as good as np205 but better than heavy chain driven 203
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If I remember correctly, I have the NP208 in the blazer now. I’m going to have to take a look in the morning and see what it has.
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I had a 205 on my old 700R4, was just a output swap.
Why not just go with a newer chain drive case?
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My concern with swapping the transfer case is that the blazer is passenger side drop. My understanding is that the 02 Silverado is driver side. I could be wrong on that. I haven’t seen the truck I person yet, it’s at copart, hoping to get up there today or tomorrow.
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Dont quote me dave, but i believe all gm trucks from the mid 70's to present have always been factory passenger side drop
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I’m not going to quote you, but I really hope that is the case. It would be nice to pull the whole drivetrain and swap it.
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Just confirmed, the blazer currently has an NP208
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210309/8211e384852ab4b700bf435a9e831692.jpg)
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IFS, drivers side drop.
Solid axle, Pass drop.
So up to 1987 the transfer will be pass drop, cept blazer and sub until 1991.
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Mark your calendars......!
I am wrong and incorrect in what i said!
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Not trying to correct anyone, just happen to have owned all, and still do some!
And I slept at a holiday inn before,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Mark your calendars......!
I am wrong and incorrect in what i said!
Dang it Nate!!! My calendar is getting all blacked out.
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Talk w/ Novak adaptors in SLC, I believe they have a kit
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If I remember correctly, I have the NP208 in the blazer now. I’m going to have to take a look in the morning and see what it has.
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I would think you'd have a 203 full time transfer in the blazer. Mine did
Dave, I for sure want you to come along with us
I do not however think you have enough time to swap all this around and get it running and tested by late June.
Have you thought this through? It seems like a ton of work, and with working a full time job, how does all that map out?
I'd say I'll come over and help out with the wrenching, but I know I'll be fully employed myself right up to launch date. Having said that. If you do this and want the helping hand, I'll find a way.
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Just confirmed, the blazer currently has an NP208
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210309/8211e384852ab4b700bf435a9e831692.jpg)
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Oops. guess I was wrong. But the 203 was very common in the K5's
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They had full time and part time. My 77 had a dana 44 front and the 205 and no cats! Kinda wish I still had it, but things change.
I think finding a tcase will not be that hard, maybe a shaft swap at the most. Swap should be easy too, it all bolts in. No real fabricating like putting a cummins in something.
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If I remember correctly, I have the NP208 in the blazer now. I’m going to have to take a look in the morning and see what it has.
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I would think you'd have a 203 full time transfer in the blazer. Mine did
Dave, I for sure want you to come along with us
I do not however think you have enough time to swap all this around and get it running and tested by late June.
Have you thought this through? It seems like a ton of work, and with working a full time job, how does all that map out?
I'd say I'll come over and help out with the wrenching, but I know I'll be fully employed myself right up to launch date. Having said that. If you do this and want the helping hand, I'll find a way.
Let me just say that this is the only way the blazer will make the trip. Saying that, I am not against buying a runabout that could make the trip and then Keeping it for the next driver in line to use.
However, let me also say that the way you wrote that makes me feel like I’ve been challenged. ;)
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3 months, better get it moving..... :evil:
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If I remember correctly, I have the NP208 in the blazer now. I’m going to have to take a look in the morning and see what it has.
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I would think you'd have a 203 full time transfer in the blazer. Mine did
Dave, I for sure want you to come along with us
I do not however think you have enough time to swap all this around and get it running and tested by late June.
Have you thought this through? It seems like a ton of work, and with working a full time job, how does all that map out?
I'd say I'll come over and help out with the wrenching, but I know I'll be fully employed myself right up to launch date. Having said that. If you do this and want the helping hand, I'll find a way.
Let me just say that this is the only way the blazer will make the trip. Saying that, I am not against buying a runabout that could make the trip and then Keeping it for the next driver in line to use.
However, let me also say that the way you wrote that makes me feel like I’ve been challenged. ;)
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Only sending good vibes your way
Just thinking out loud really, be one heck of an accomplishment!
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As I read it, it seemed like a challenge including an offer to assist!
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So, this may sound like a dumb question, but here goes. How can I diagnose if my transmission issues are actually possibly torque converter as opposed to my transmission (which I had rebuilt 5 years ago) being bad? I know there’s still a bit of work involved swapping it if that’s the issue, and might still have transmission issues, but don’t want to throw money at something that doesn’t need it.
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Good article from AAMCO here Dave.
https://www.aamcoblog.com/Article/Signs-of-a-Failing-Torque-Converter-and-How-to-Fix-it
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So this project is slowly being brought back out of the cobwebs. Tonight I pulled the transfer case, probably pull the transmission tomorrow if I can find the time.
My question for all of you is this: should I do a rebuild on the transfer case (NP208) while I have it out? If so, is there a recommended source for a rebuild kit? It’ll be my first time, but I should be able to figure it out with Google and YouTube.
Thoughts?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230916/deb211c3791705c23b92f29405ff9f67.jpg)
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Still just trying to get it road worthy? Tate has reman t-cases, I’m not sure of np208 kits as I don’t mess with them but Tate again would be a go to on this. Also possibly torque king 4x4 out of Billings has a great website.
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I'd rebuild it if I could.
I have run the NP208 case in several applications and found it to be a good unit,
But
My question is how did that case get into your K5?
Should have been a full time NP203.
(I had a 79 K5 in Germany and it was full time, NP203)
Later on after Germany, I purchased a new 84 Scottsdale (Chevy truck) K10 and it had a NP208 case in it.
Mine stood up to 36" tires and a supercharged 350...
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So this project is slowly being brought back out of the cobwebs. Tonight I pulled the transfer case, probably pull the transmission tomorrow if I can find the time.
My question for all of you is this: should I do a rebuild on the transfer case (NP208) while I have it out? If so, is there a recommended source for a rebuild kit? It’ll be my first time, but I should be able to figure it out with Google and YouTube.
Thoughts?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230916/deb211c3791705c23b92f29405ff9f67.jpg)
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ZTBK208 $83.00 in stock in MN. all the bearings and seals, small parts kit and gasket.
ZTCHHV025R $45 chain
ZMBSHWT297-62 $5.00 tail bushing
ZTNP4219073 $4.00 mode fork center pad
ZTNP4167970 $2.00 each range fork pads
thank should get you freshened up