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Messages - Jared Herzog

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Build Threads / Re: the GM guys here
« on: June 16, 2018, 09:58:58 AM »
I have an 04 Suburban with the 5.3. It is my wife?s daily driver and now has 195,000 miles. It has never had anything other than maintenance done and an alternator rebuild. Only fluids and filters otherwise. All service done per the owners maintenance recommendations. It is on its second set of tires which are nearing the end of their life. I have no idea how they last so long. This year did not have the active fuel management. If i were to buy a new one that system would be disabled for sure.
The parts to keep these things going are cheap cheap cheap. The alternator rebuild cost less than $100. I was told by a service department in Colorado that they could swap in a new engine and transmission for $2800 each.
When it dies i will repower it. I will add a turbo or possibly do a crate motor that is much larger. I would like a 500-600 horse power sleeper. But, this thing keeps going and doesn?t burn a drop of any fluid. I have also though about shipping it to duraburb for a Duramax transplant.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: May 29, 2018, 08:38:42 AM »
Sorry for the late response. I agree with the foam as long as it can be used with the existing insulation and venting. But, it is not always easy to have a home with different insulation types and venting/nonventing methods. This is further compounded when you try to calculate the ac loads and distribution to keep every room the same temperature when some rooms are better insulated than others.
I am not a fan of powered ventilation. It works well at moving air but requires power to run the fan. I have seen so many fans burned out here in Texas due to running all the time that i fear they could be a fire hazard and are counter productive to an energy efficient home. When we must use such a vent i try to use the solar powered type.
I have had a similar situation that you have. Air will travel through the structure through the notches and holes naturally found in framing. What i have done when a cut can not be made along the entire ridge is to drill holes. These holes should not be so large as to weaken the structure. These holes allow the connection of osb to ridge to be maintained. The air that gets heated will naturally rise up and pull in fresh air below. Make sure you have a way for fresh air to enter at a lower point than the ridge holes. This will create a draw that will circulate air through the structure. This principle is reliable and never needs maintenance as long as the vents are clear. When i drilled these holes through the osb roof deck i did a 1? hole and had six or so holes between every 16? OC truss. Holes on both sides of the ridge. I did not have to drill holes through the trusses though. You may want to drill cross holes through your rafters but keep them small and from weakening the rafter. I am not sure how to figure how many holes you would need and of what size.
If holes and a continuous ridge vent is not possible you may want to consider an air hawk. They are the round turtle looking vents found on most homes around here. They mount just below the ridge so the connection you have can be maintained. The down side to them in your situation is that they will not ventilate every rafter chamber as well as a continuous vent so you would have to rely on the side to side travel of air through the framing and rafter notches. Small holes could be drilled through the rafters if your local code will allow.

Construction and Building / Re: Upstairs Add On started
« on: May 06, 2018, 09:00:59 AM »
Those steps look great. When a company comes to carpet they add about $75 to carpet one step. Then an additional $75 per step. Lowes and Homedepot do this with the offer they have to carpet a house for $99. It does not include steps. So if you can do your own steps you can save big.
All the recent ads I?ve heard from HD say they include steps.

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That would be great. We have had customers call Lowes/Homedepot out to do carpet with the hope of a cheap install to have a large bid handed to them due to steps. We usually end up using our usual carpet guy who is not attached to Lowes/Homedepot. Once you have the right tools steps go pretty quickly.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: May 05, 2018, 02:45:11 PM »
Here is a quick photo of the hidden closet. The plywood has specific #2 screws that get removed and three pieces slide down and out. It is for boxed food and guns with ammo. This is one of several. I will update with a photo of it closed once i load it up.

Construction and Building / Re: Upstairs Add On started
« on: May 05, 2018, 10:56:14 AM »
Those steps look great. When a company comes to carpet they add about $75 to carpet one step. Then an additional $75 per step. Lowes and Homedepot do this with the offer they have to carpet a house for $99. It does not include steps. So if you can do your own steps you can save big.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: May 05, 2018, 10:45:58 AM »
We use the exact nails in our base plates. We also have the concrete guys do anchor bolts so our setup is the same as yours in your state.
I am never a fan of trying something new. This is both good and bad. Usually i let others experiment first. Too many times i hear that the idea to change was wrong and we are going back to the old way. The new method came with a lifetime warranty which is no good as the company went under and opened in another name three days later and such. One area where this bit me was with hardi. I waited for it to be proven before i switched. So i kept using masonite and wood which we eventually, years later, ripped off and replaced with the hardi.
On this addition we are doing the homeowner has advantec subfloor adhesive we are using. It is the first time i have used this with the advantec floor. So far it is great. It comes out of the gun like spray foam and shrinks back leaving some mean blue adhesive. It is supposed to work wet or dry and even when freezing. It is messy to work with.
Most of my homes are ranch style one story homes. Or a different country style but still one story. I usually do custom homes which cost more than the cookie cutter homes they build here. This leaves me with older customers rather than someone buying their first home where they are younger with kids so opt for the best bang for the buck to get the most square footage. The older people shy away from anything with stairs. Even sidewalks and such get ramps as they plan for the future and their aging bodies.
My framers do not screw sub flooring very often. I usually come back and just add screws to their nail pattern to make myself feel better. On my home everything is nailed, glued, and screwed. My personal home is going slow as i do the entire thing with two of my kids daughter (18) and son (13) so they can learn the process. It has been nice to not have a customer looking over my shoulder and no deadlines. I can work an area until i am satisfied. I am paying cash for it as i go so it will take another year to complete. Then i will do the garage and guest house. I felt very strongly that i should never again let a bank have a note on my property. If work dries up they can not take my home. My problem was that with equity from past homes rolled in (due to no capital gains on your homestead if you live there for two years) and all my labor done for free i end up with something of increasing value where i could lose everything. All my money and labor is in property. I just wish something could be done about property tax. I am tired of these crazy school bonds driving up taxes. The county portion of the tax for all the county services is @$500. The other $6000 is the dang schools. It gets me riled up especially since we homeschool and they will not even loan books.  It feels like i am renting my property from the state and will never really own anything.
Dave, i skipped your question on your supplier wanting you to stop using glue and just use barbed nails. Glue is cheap. It is also almost impossible to go back and add it later. The nails will probably be fine but i would still use glue. Once the adhesive soaks into both pieces you are glueing together that area is very strong. IMO they may want you to skip glue to offset the cost of their nails to justify their higher price. I would do both even if it is a bit much or unnecessary for a specific fastener.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: May 04, 2018, 10:19:53 PM »
Hiding spots are important. So is letting your family know what is where if they can be trusted. I have seen some crazy stuff i may get into here at a later time.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: May 04, 2018, 08:13:55 PM »
I have been working on my personal house this week due to weather. The first photo is a hidden room above the kids room that we are calling the kid hideout. I still need to get carpet but it is done. It will be storage while we sheetrock and will then be accessed by a rock wall with tunnel from my sons room. We plan to mount a flatscreen and make it a place for the kids to hangout and watch tv and have the xbox. This area is 11?4? X 14?6?.
This second area is my closet. It is reinforced with 3/4? plywood and screwed down. This is much harder to get into than sheetrock. I have hidden panels and storage behind the 3/4? plywood for some survival food and gun storage. The base plate is wedged down every 16?. I used this strong box to brace off of in the attic. I was trying to decide if I should attach it to the house framing or have the house blow away leaving the box behind. I ultimately used it as in interior structural cube. Same with the kid hideout. The entire house in fortified to withstand heavy winds and stand as long as i can get it to. I have customers show me their hidden rooms. I always ask why they used sheetrock. I do not think they know how weak it is. I can get through a sheetrock wall in less than a minute. Even quicker if i am pissed. For those customers i recommend they have weapons in the room and know they can shoot right out of it into the intruder through the sheetrock. I will get a photo of the hidden area tomorrow. For now here is where i am with it.
I need to get a steel door but have not decided what to do. My partner and i do blast type doors but that would be overkill here. It would weigh about 600-800 pounds for that size. So i am considering just going steel and mounting it in such a way that it can not be kicked in. There will be pins or wooden blocks that can be dropped in from the inside. From there i may fill it with two part epoxy or concrete. This may still also be overkill. I have not decided anything yet. My wife and daughter have had gun training from our groups weapons expert and i want them to be able to get to the weapons quickly and be able to fire those weapons through the door and walls if need be without someone being able to get in too easily. This closet is 6X10.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: May 04, 2018, 07:37:10 PM »
The rules governing the commercial side due to peoples stupidity tests my patience. I had an inspector test every door closure i did. About 200 doors. They test close speed for the initial sweep. The door must slow down right before the actual close and do a cushioned soft close that locks but not too tight all without exerting too much pressure. This is complicated as the pressure in a building changes as AC cycles and other doors may be open or closed. We were also supervised by the army core of engineers who has their own inspectors. OSHA is what most people go by. Their philosophy was that OSHA set a minimum standard so they have their own more ultra crazy standard. Cost does not matter for the government. So these government contracts take our tax money to build projects with crazy safety in place. For example i spent about six hours tightening and replacing two pieces of iron. Without the safety crap ,after hours with the inspector gone, i increased my productivity to do the same in 15 minutes. I got written up twice in one day. I was the only person on site on a Saturday, with the exception of the company safety officer, and an Army corp inspector showed up. If they show up they stay until they can write someone up. I got written up when my hard hat fell off when i looked up into the ceiling grid. Then i got written up for a Dr Pepper in a bottle with a lid in a spill proof cart in a rubber daycare where everything is made to be cleaned daily. The drink on site decision was made by the super that they were allowed. He just had nothing else to write up and wanted to go home. I filed the write ups in the folder with all job write ups.  There were just over 5000 in there. When the job is done they get tossed and no one cares. Laughable at best.
The ADA people really have gotten out of hand. There is a group here in Austin that goes to small businesses and sits on the toilet to take measurements. If anything is off or out of spec a law suit is filed for discrimination. They check wheelchair ramp angles and handrails. Even the TP holder must be in spec.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: May 04, 2018, 11:01:17 AM »
I do light commercial construction at times. We do office additions and have been called in to do punch out for large commercial contractors. Most of my work is residential though.
The treated woods have changed. They are or were treated with formaldehyde and now are treated with copper or borate. The EPA wanted to get the formaldehyde wood out of the houses. So we have switched to borate base plates and a foam gasket to keep the wood from contacting the concrete and also help seal out air. Also, the galvanized stuff has gotten weaker IMO. The galvanized layer is paper thin so any damage to the coating and corrosion sets in. This can happen when the driver on the gun contacts the fastener or anything in the wood causes an abrasion as the nail penetrates the wood. Drills also tear the head up if the bit skips. The nails my grandfather has used and still has around in his huge boxes are much better. Those nails will be around hundreds of years from now. I have seen the borate treated wood we use eat through galvanized deck staples and standard framing nails. It takes a while but at some point the wood treatment eats through the fasteners and there is no longer anything holding the base plates to the wall studs. I use ACQ rated treated screws and fasteners in my base plates. So when i nail walls together i use a different nail in the treated baseplates than i do the rest of the areas that are nailed during framing.
Certain fasteners also cause streaking in fencing. IIRC galvanized screws streak with cedar. The coated screws for ACQ lumber are pretty good. I have been buying special fasteners lately and they are expensive for sure. Everything is getting expensive.
Currently i am doing a home addition. The guy is like me and is trying to take steps to increase strength. So the nails we are using are the fattest nail my gun will run plus galvanized, coated with glue, and ring shank. I am nailing into LVL?s so at times the nail only goes half way in at the max 120 psi the gun will take. We are also screwing and glueing as much as we can. He provided advantec adhesive which is brutally strong stuff and comes in a pressurized can with a required special handle and trigger. I have also been using Spax screws. These screws are uncoated for the interior and coated for the exterior. They are great structural screws. There are two head styles we have used on this job which are ledger lock and timber lock. I used the small interior version of these screws on my tornado room and hidden gun closet when we screwed the 3/4? plywood to the walls.
On another note i will finally be getting a computer connection next week so i can get this thread going with the photos i have been taking and wanting to post up here.
Dave, what are you doing about baseplate fasteners with your framing crews in regards to treated wood and their required fasteners?

Construction and Building / Upstairs Add On started
« on: April 08, 2018, 05:51:10 PM »
I have a confession to make. I hate going to the store when they are crowded. Back to school in a college town absolutely sucks. People leave their carts in the middle of the aisle so you can not get past while they are off looking at other stuff. Just walking slow with people trying to get around them just to stop in the middle of the aisle and walk off leaving the cart blocking everyone. I am not talking about leaving a heavy cart out of the way at Lowes as i do that all the time. JRs experience just jogged my memory. But inconveniencing everyone on purpose. So I started a game with the kids called cart roulette. If there is not a kid or purse in the cart i just take the entire thing. The whole thing and move it to a more appropriate area. Sometimes some of the selections in their cart look pretty good so find their way into my cart. Then sit back and watch the aftermath unfold. The best times are when college kids are shopping for stuff with their parents. I simply toss in stuff they would need and see what happens at the checkout. I have tossed in books for lonely women and chocolates. I have tossed in pool floats and comfort foods. I have tossed in books and magazines about Trump to our more left leaning confused citizens. I have tossed a bottle of Vagisil into a frat guys basket and none of his buddies saw it happen.  I usually just carry stuff around the store with me and toss whatever into abandoned carts. The funniest thing i have ever tossed into a college kids cart while the parents were there was a HUGE value pack of condoms. The parents were lit when it slid across the scales. The kid (a female) was embarrassed and confused.
Moral of the story: Jared is a jerk and watch your cart in my town. But, do not judge me just yet. The next time you are behind a shopper doing exactly what i described this post will come back to you. A smile will cross your face and you will have an idea. Give it a try first. Good times will be had by all.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: April 06, 2018, 08:28:10 AM »
I am waiting for the Air B&B ad to come out. Everything is looking great. Resort style.
I know nothing about salt pools. Is there a way to remove the salt and make the water drinkable in a survival situation? Short of distilling it i guess.

Construction and Building / Re: Upstairs Add On started
« on: April 04, 2018, 11:34:07 AM »
IMO it is better to do a heavier first coat of primer even if you do a second coat. The first coat soaks into the drywall paper and joint compound. If the coat is too thin the primer does not get soaked in as well before it dries and seals. This keeps a second thin coat from penetrating as much as a thick first coat would have. It sort of bonds everything together when a first coat is done right. I have noticed that when the primer step is skipped the texture is easier to damage. Primer is also a wetter product than the thicker premium paints available now which also aids in absorption. Premium paints these days usually have a built in primer. This should not replace the actual step of priming. The paint and primer in one is usually pretty thick and geared more to hiding wall stains and irregularities when doing a paint over paint project.
The addition is looking great.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: March 30, 2018, 08:55:11 PM »
Here is what i do. I have a weatherguard tool box that is the deep wide contractors box. It is full. Probably about 800-1000 lbs. Every nook and cranny in my truck is full of tools and parts. Under the seat is full. In floor storage full. Door pockets and glove box full. Every seating position can be used. I scaled the truck with an empty bed and me 200 and daughter 120 and no fuel (fuel light was on) and i was 9600lbs.
When needed i pull a job site trailer. I leave it at the site if i can unless theft is a concern. I use to leave all tools inside the home being built. I was burglarized three times and lost $15,000 the first week in lost tools and materials. I was hit twice in the same week. So i got a S&H trailer. It is an 04 and been in constant use since then. It is heavy duty. It has seen 100 mph sustained. It has been floated in a river during a flash flood where i had to get out. This trailer has been wonderful. No issues. Likely north of 200,000 miles on it. I pull it through ditches and into sites where there are no roads. It never came off the truck, for one stretch that was over two years. If i went the trailer came with me.
My shelves are 3/4? plywood 12? deep. I installed 1/2? plywood to the trailer sides and screwed it to the boxed tubing. Then i glued and screwed 1x2 to the back in strips for each 3/4? x12? shelf to sit on. The front has props of 2x3 face nailed. Then a second piece is glued and screwed behind the front prop to hold the shelf. Then another 1x3 is put on the face and extends above the shelf. This keeps stuff from bouncing out of the shelves. This has proven very strong. I strap hundreds and hundreds of pounds to these shelves with no parts ever working loose. I have a job box that i can lock in the nose. This thing was way too much for a couple of Tundras i tried pulling it with. They wanted to go straight through the corners and their suspensions were bottomed out.
I have had several other contractors and framers copy my design and they are happy. This system would also mount well into a box van. I just prefer to pull the trailer when necessary and leave it behind if the truck is enough. I told one framer who was looking to try and rip a shelf off. The whole trailer was rocking but nothing inside came loose.
The truck is a 15 with Cummins and Aisin. I had a 14 Ram with Cummins and 68rfe and broke two complete transmissions before 14,700 miles. Completely burned up both times. I also had a 12 LML which was a lemon and the dealer never fixed it. Pyro 4 was stuck at 1832 degrees and not towing i was at 9 mpg with regens every 100-150 miles. They would reset the computer and it was great and at 18 mpg or so then it would fall to 9 again. That lasted for 20,000 miles before i was done.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: March 30, 2018, 07:00:39 PM »
Interesting. I have also seen that before. Probably so the osb did not have to be cut. There is a plate joint above it also.  I guess at least they put wood there other than just seam tape.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: March 28, 2018, 10:37:06 AM »
The most weight i ever towed with my 2500 was four pallets of wet sod. The last pallet could not be pushed in far enough so it was even with the edge of the trailer. I told the guy loading me it looked heavy. He said each pallet was 2000 pounds. I pulled that trailer through the Texas hill country and it swayed a ton. In fact i had to keep hitting the trailer brake switch to straighten the trailer out. When i got where i was going the trailer brakes were smoking. I returned for more pallets and had the owner loading me this time. He said that guy was wrong on the estimated weight. Each pallet was just over 4000 pounds because it had recently rained and the sod was much wetter than usual.
We have guys sitting out by Ace Hardware that are illegals looking for work. I have never used them. I believe we need borders and hiring these guys only drives them harder to be here illegally and gives them money to stay.  I have heard they all run about $15 per hour. Lunch is also required and cash is at the end of each day. I will say that there are tons of Americans here with families paying taxes and obeying the law that will work just as hard for that same money.
I had a friend from high school working for me for years. I had his SS number and filed the necessary reports. One day i get a call from the Texas Workforce Commission and get an audit. His number was invalid and he was illegal. I never knew that. I got fined and had to pay more tax on that one. I was told that if i ever get caught again paying illegals on payroll or through contract labor i would receive their highest penalty because i had been warned. They were not messing around at all. This was around 07 or 08. I am still to small to be required to E verify but that process has helped identify fake numbers. IMO hiring daily help is a good way to get high schoolers involved and excited about work and earning pay. It also builds work ethic which is needed more and more these days.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: March 23, 2018, 08:55:45 AM »
Closets are time machines. I would rather tape, float, and paint a room than a closet. They take about the same time IMO.
I need to look around. I think i remember seeing some drywall paper tape with small pin holes to grab the mud. I am thinking it will hold better but have not had any issues with the plain old paper tape. Come to think of it i have not had issues with fiberglass tape either. Researched it a bit yesterday and it appears you must use hot mud or setting compound with the mesh tape. I have a homemade taping machine that takes the all purpose mud and paper tape. I will most likely have the wife and daughter use that to tape the house and come behind and float it out. One thing i have seen done wrong at some sites is the taper uses too much pressure and forces too much of the mud from under the tape. It pretty much pushes all the mud out. It holds for a while but will eventually come loose and sag and then crack away and need attention. So when using tape press it in but not so much that there is no mud left underneath.
I have spent many years floating new homes and making repairs on remodels. I hated it at first. Then you get a technique and it becomes enjoyable. I am floating my house to both stay on budget and to keep with the trend here of teaching my daughter how to do the work and greatly minimize the use of outside labor. The issue of taping and floating is one we will all face. This particular trade has gotten pretty expensive to hire out. The cost per sheet for labor has doubled in the last five years.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: March 22, 2018, 10:41:16 PM »
Tommy, thanks for verifying what i was worried about. I will go with standard weight sheetrock on my house. Probably fire rated 1/2? on the walls in addition to the normal fire rated 5/8? on the ceiling. The sheetrock companies can charge more and provide less product in the form of gypsum with the lightweight stuff so it is a win for them. But, we as homeowners have to deal with the possibly of a more inferior product.
This reminds me of one home i worked on for an elderly lady in her 90?s. She was a retired Dr. she used 1/2? 4x8 sheets of hardi plank on all her interior walls. The same stuff you see at the store for showers but in a 3x5 size. It looked great and even floated out nicely.
JR, i looked real hard at the Roxul insulation you went with. The spec on it is outstanding. I have opened walls with the stuff in it but never understood what it was until you recommended its use.
I was convinced i would go with fiberglass mesh tape instead of paper drywall tape. But, after researching the advantages and disadvantages i think i will be doing paper tape this time around.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: March 22, 2018, 09:37:55 AM »
I have been researching sheetrock and have gone way down into that rat hole. What do you guys think of the lightweight sheetrock on the market? It is all that is available at HomeDepot and Lowes. It is also more expensive. I bought six sheets to prerock. I must admit i am against the use if it due to the higher cost and the addition of air into the board. I never buy in bulk from the box stores. I usually get it from the contractor outlets that only deal in drywall. It is much cheaper that way and they deliver it into the house and sort it into the rooms for the same delivery fee everyone else charges to just drop it in the driveway.
I usually just make sure it is made in the US and is a name brand. I also prefer a deeper bevel on the joints. The last brand i used was American Gypsum brand and it worked well. My hangers charge the same price per sheet to hang the heavy stuff.
My only experience with lightweight is in remodels where we remove the old lightweight stuff. It just crumbles more easily and some is actually mushy. There is also generally more cracking with it. But, this stuff is probably five years old or so which would put it at the beginning of hitting the market so maybe it has gotten better.
The house in question is also my personal home. I do have a small budget so this time i foamed the attic and batted the walls with R15 fiberglass insulation. This has proven to be great. I do not want an airtight house because the prepper in me wants to be able to live in it without electricity and not rely on air exchangers and dehumidifiers that an airtight house needs. They did the insulation on a cool day. A week has passed and it has become much hotter here and it is still very cool inside the house. Since the home is in central Texas i need to keep heat from the attic and roof out of the house.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: March 22, 2018, 09:24:18 AM »
JR, your build looks great. You tackled a job most would have shied away from. For me remodeling is harder. You just have to make things you already have in place work and generally improve the product as you go.
My comment about uncovering hidden wrongs was geared toward professionals. I do see homeowners trying their best and this is great. They ask questions and generally want their home to be right. What is disheartening is when a homeowner is too overwhelmed or intimidated to take on a project. This drives them to take their hard earned money and pay someone who claims to be a professional. This person then either does not know what he is doing or is just a crook and takes advantage. I have literally seen multiple load bearing walls removed and hidden. After a year or so the house was falling in on itself. We had to raise it back up and install beams.
I think that is what this section and forum is for. To help each other learn and build the confidence to move forward on our own projects and have people willing to give advice and help out if a snag is hit. 
I am about to drywall my house. I will hire out the hanging of the material due to an old back injury which makes my hanging sheetrock slow and too costly. I am going to do all the tape and float. I have started prerocking for the AC coming Saturday. I do not mind floating at all. It does get monotonous though. The trick is to have a good set of tools and always use the same set so you get use to the feel. Then secondly make sure the mud is the right consistency for the layer you are doing.
I just picked up PVA primer. I got the Kilz brand of new drywall primer. It was under $50 for 5 gallons. I looked at the Behr primer but was not happy with its reviews.
I would not count on the primer as the only vapor barrier. Every region of the country has different needs. Here it is wet and humid much of the year then hot and humid the rest of the year. I feel primer is extremely important. It is way cheaper than premium paints. What i have found is that it is usually much wetter than paint. This allows it to soak into the raw texture and drywall. This soaking in bonds the mud to the paint and the sheetrock. The texture becomes much more durable.
On my homes i have other layers that keep moisture from making it that far into the room. By the time moisture from the exterior makes it up against the primer and paint you may see several issues. IMO it is better to stop the moisture much earlier. 
I will get an internet connection soon. We are living onsite where we are building our home and have for a while. It has been painful going this route but i am trying to get into the house without borrowing bank money. I usually run up to the library and use their internet but work has picked up and time is at a premium. 

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: March 21, 2018, 09:02:57 AM »
On another note i keep an eye on this thread for questions. My goal is to put my entire home build here along with photos of customer work and some of the work of others we are called in to fix. You guys will be shocked by some of the stuff i find and see hidden from homeowners who trusted the wrong contractor.
I am waiting to set up a router to add photos more easily. From my phone the pictures are not loading properly using data and my data is limited. I have not forgotten about these photos at all. I should have the internet connection soon.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: March 21, 2018, 08:58:33 AM »
Spring is right around the corner so our paint work is going to pick up drastically. This reminded me that others here are probably going to be painting as well. PM me for the discount number to use at checkout at Home Depot to get 20% off at the register. I prefer not to post the number here as it is my phone number and it may get picked up by a bot to put me on more calling lists.
The deal is this. You will get 20% off of Behr paints and primers. If i understand it correctly it is on all Behr paints, stains, and primers. If anyone is concerned i recommend going to the pro desk and verifying the deal or have your concerns addressed before mixing the paint. For me to keep the discount and have it automatically renewed every January i have to spend $7500 during the previous year. Some years i am under that number and some years i am way above it. Our rep said to use it and give the number to employees, friends, and family. So all of this is above board and approved by our rep. No strings attached and the savings is given at point of sale and is instant.

I have broken some tools that way also. I have found there are many websites where you can buy parts and pieces to repair the tool. Just do a search on the brand and model number and sites will pop up. Most of the time it is cost effective to repair the tool especially if you can do it yourself. But, if a guy wants a new tool this broken one can be used on the wife as proof of death/use. Then get a new tool and fix the old. I just finished rebuilding an echo chainsaw and used www.ereplacementparts.com. Needed the saw working for doing volunteer work for a widow of an LAPD officer who is on our list to watch out for. We do what we call a widow run. There are several widows we know who are elderly so we work for free or free with the materials they purchase. Some of the work is just heavy lifting like keeping their water softeners full and such.
The shed is looking great. I wish more people would tackle their own builds at home. They would end up with a better product than can be purchased most of the time. Your added design features, like the truss tail scrolls and window trim scroll work, would add significantly to the cost so in an apples to apples comparison you are coming out nicely.
I am still having great results with the Behr paint and am buying more today. If anyone else here wants 20% off Behr paint right at the register PM me for the discount number to enter at checkout. Or ask Don for the information.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: February 24, 2018, 11:47:04 PM »
Perfect, thanks.  I just don't know that Lowes will carry the exact type of fitting that I need, like a drop ear 3/4 tee with a 1/2 pipe thread.
Those are common if i am understanding. They are used on tubs and showers to stub out. You can also get rigid copper stub outs. From there you use compression shutoff valves. Apollo and sharkbite also make shutoff valves that hook right to the pex. If you run under your pier and beam you can come out right into the cabinet and add a straight or 90 shutoff valve.

***** This is important. When doing a tub valve you CAN NOT use pex to the tub spout. To the shower head yes. Tub no. It restricts the water just enough that it will trip the diverter valve.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: February 24, 2018, 11:42:22 PM »
The viega tools i have match the copper crimp ring tool in size. It must go around the pipe which is at times hard in confined spaces. The clamp tool only needs to grab one side of the clamp and the same tool crimps 3/8? to 1? fittings.  My plan is to buy a 100 count pack of 3/4? sharkbite clamps and a 100 count pack of 1/2? sharkbite clamps and use these with my tool. I will use them on Apollo fittings when necessary but, otherwise i want to stick to either Viega or sharkbite when i can plan out the jobs. In an emergency i will be able to use this setup with most brands of fittings.
When i do plumbing i do manifolds. I run pex al pex under the slab when it is Viega. They call it fosta pex. This style has an aluminum inner layer. So it is pex-aluminum-pex. The outer layer of pex with the aluminum gets removed or stripped with a special tool. This lets the pex have memory and will retain bends like copper. It also can be in the sun. Pex b must be out of the direct and indirect sunlight within six months. I believe it is the same way with pex a and c also. It can be covered with insulation.
My manifolds are sized to keep good flow based on fixtures. It is best to limit the fitting count as this slows the water flow down since the fittings go inside the pipe. The water also has to make sharp turns. So have gentle non kinked bends when possible. Sharkbite also has some nice copper manifolds. These limit the number of expensive fittings needed and with Viega the cost adds up quickly. I like to use 3/4? and 1/2? stuff as much as possible. 1? fittings are real expensive and harder to work with. They also hold more water so the time it takes to get hot to a fixture increases. Most homes on a tap are fed by a 5/8? ID meter anyway. From the meter or well to the house i run parallel 1? or 1 1/4? pipe. From there i feed a manifold with (2) 3/4? pex runs. Here are some photos of what i just did at my home along with the sharkbite copper manifold piece. They have manifolds with different amounts of runs coming off of them. You can feed from manifold to manifold.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: February 24, 2018, 10:36:50 PM »
How i understand it is this. Match the tool to their specific brand and manufacturer of clamp or ring. The pex is all the same ID and OD. Since this is so the fittings are all the same OD. So the tool must match or be calibrated to the clamp or ring being used. The fitting can be any brand so sharkbite or apollo work. I still plan to stick to one brand and not mix and match for my customers warranty purposes and simplicity.
Pex b is the most common. It is easily bought at lowes h depot ace and just about everywhere. Just make sure not to use pex a. I have only seen pex a at the plumbing stores and they do not sell much of it. Uponor makes the outlet stop selling any other brand is what moore supply told me. So they do not carry the uponor brand because of the contractual conflict. Plus the chemical leaching of type a has me concerned since pex b is safe. Pex c is rare. Never seen it. Hope this helps with what i have found to be a very confusing subject from a customer standpoint.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: February 24, 2018, 10:29:53 PM »
I recommend that you go to lowes. Get sharkbite pex. Type b. It is made in the USA. The Apollo pex from H Depot is made in China. Then get the sharkbite crimp tool for clamps. Also made in the USA. Use the stainless clamps. Sharkbite also has a tool that crimps copper rings. They must be checked with the go no go gauge every crimp. They are two different tools. The other tool that crimps the clamps is what i just bought. The copper rings are not rated for burial. The stainless clamps are. That is really the cheapest way to do what you are wanting to do. My tools are sitting here in the truck with me so here is a shot of the tool and clamps. If you will be closer to me near Austin you can borrow my tool. After all my research this is what i got to use when Viega is not possible.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: February 20, 2018, 10:38:51 PM »
I think pex is fine. The issue may or may not be the actual correct installation with the pex type a,b,or c matching the specific fittings matching the clamps/rings/collars matching the proper tool for the application. When i was researching this stuff it is like the opinions are all over the place. The experts do not even agree. This leads to confusion and mistakes. I spent tons of time just on hold waiting for answers from sharkbite and apollo. The answers were cut and paste type responses.
I have never been on a job where Uponor was used. I know that the fittings are not easily bought locally when i need them on the weekend for an emergency repair. Sort of back to the same issue i am currently having with Viega. I have heard some homeowners claim that a fitting for type b pex worked on type a pex. But, for how long is the real issue i think.
I am enjoying not using map gas while crouching inside a wall cavity while i solder together a copper manifold. The copper we buy now is not as tough feeling like the old stuff was. It feels thin and is not round. I also question its purity and susceptibility to galvanic corrosion. I know we have some sketchy well water around here that eats copper up. This is where the Uponor may shine. I am not fond of the viega, sharkbite, or apollo composite ?plastic? fittings. I have seen too many cracked. 

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: February 20, 2018, 06:12:22 PM »
We have talked about pex in the past here. I am helping finish this 6000 ft house and they used a mix of sharkbite and apollo clamps. They used a mix of apollo and sharkbite fittings. Everything was the clamp style. I usually use Viega and am comfortable with it. But, at half the price for the fittings i did a TON more research to see how to handle this. About two days worth with calls to sharkbite and apollo.
Here is what i found. The pex is the same size in each type being A, B, or C. So i use type b and can buy any brand type b and be ok. I will use either Viega or sharkbite pex pipe. They are made in the US. Apollo pex pipe is made in China. Viega fittings are made in Italy or the US. Sharkbite and apollo are Chinese fittings. Apollo tools are Chinese made. Sharkbite tools are US made. Around here Lowes has sharkbite and Home Depot has Apollo and a few sharkbite mixed in. The stuff at Home Depot is the sharkbite fittings only. They do not sell the sharkbite clamps.
The fittings are generally, almost 100%, the same OD so the fittings work with each others clamps. The builder here mixed apollo and sharkbite clamps with the fittings. But, they only had an apollo clamping tool. They said this was ok but my research says it is not. Some were leaking. I had to reclamp several. All will have issues where the apollo tool clamped a sharkbite clamp and vice versa. The sharkbite tool is calibrated to pinch their own clamps. Apollo will pinch their own clamps. DO NOT MIX APOLLO CLAMPS WITH A SHARKBITE TOOL. DO NOT MIX A SHARKBITE CLAMP WITH APOLLO TOOL. The sharkbite tool is calibrated to its own clamp and does not close as far as an apollo tool will on their own clamp. This could lead to leaks or broken clamps which may present themselves some time in the future. No leak now equals a possible leak later. One way would be to recalibrate the tool with the go no go gauge. This may allow the tool to basically crimp a competitors clamp. The difference is .001?. 
The Viega fittings are expensive. They are bronze. The sharkbite and apollo fittings are copper. The copper could suffer dezincification. This is likely with manufacturing of the materials in China. There were recent lawsuits with Zurn fittings that had the zinc leach out and the fittings crumbled. This issue is not one a bronze fitting will suffer.
So now i own the viega tools and the sharkbite tools. The sharkbite tools are much cheaper and one tool crimps 3/8-1?. Where the viega has a separate tool for each size.
I will only be using Viega on my personal homes. If a customer chooses i will do sharkbite. I can also source fittings more easily when we do repair work. Viega is only offered at actual plumbing shops around here. 
I did find the sharkbite push to connect fittings are rated for wall burial where access is limited or non existent. I wonder how this will pan out in the future when the o ring that seals dries up and starts leaking. Maybe they never will but that is not what i have seen of very old o rings.
Apollo and Sharkbite also have a copper crimp ring tool and kit. These must have each crimp checked with a go no go gauge. This copper ring is not to be buried. The stainless clamps are rated for ground burial if that matters.
Anyway, what are you guys seeing or finding about this pex stuff? I imagine in the near future these clamps will be standardized or maybe not. Using a mix of fittings and clamps with the wrong tool could be an out on a warranty claim.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: February 20, 2018, 08:52:25 AM »
I wanted to walk through some steps i use to do trim work inside a house. Before i learned how to do trim i just cut every corner at a 45. This was time consuming and not very accurate. If the board was too short it got tossed aside. If it was too long the joints would not work properly and the wall would/could develop a crack just above the joint. Or i would be making small incremental cuts on the saw.
What i do now is work through a room counter clock wise because i am right handed. If a wall is longer than the material those pieces get 45 degree cuts. I try to end those spots on a stud if the trim is 5 1/4? or taller. The shorter stuff can be nailed into the baseplate and hold ok. But, i still try to find a stud. When i have to join two pieces i have the shorter length be at least 32?. If the material is too short it looks odd to me. Every joint that is made to lengthen a run is glued with wood glue or some similar paintable material.
The first piece of trim will sit square in the corner with 90 degree cuts. If the piece is too long trim it to fit. If the piece is slightly too short tighten it up on the right side. This leaves it maybe 1/8? short on the left. This is ok. The second piece will cover any shortfall. This is where the trim goes faster with this method as the pieces can be short and not perfect and are still usable. I still try to get my tolerances to 1/16? though.
Place the second trim piece on the chop saw and cut the end off at a 45 degree cut. This will reveal the trim pattern that you will cut with a sharp coping saw.

The coped part will be slightly back cut also.

If your first piece was too short the shortfall will be hidden as the pieces puzzle together.

That takes care of all inside corners. Outside corners get a 45 or 22 1/2 degree cut. Also glue these cuts together for a better installation. When you have rounded corners the flat back of the rounded piece will measure 5/8? 9 out if 10 times. Most round corners are the same. There is a smaller version but those get trimmed with a 90 degree.

In the above photo you will see jigs. I use jigs everywhere to eliminate guessing. Every rounded corner gets 1 1/8? 18 gauge brads and the piece glued down. If a larger fastener is used the trim will crack. The remaining trim gets 15 or 16 gauge 2? fasteners.

There is not much more to trim than that. Just a lot of practice will improve the results.

Construction and Building / Upstairs Add On started
« on: February 09, 2018, 08:08:50 AM »
Overhead cutting in sheetrock or hardi is best left to the new guy and the biggest reason every site needs a new guy. Or a son.

That is there best paint. I usually buy the grade below it. The paint you got has properties that resist fading for a very long time. It also repels stains and dust so less sticks to the paint and the color is ?high definition? what ever that means.
The paint you got has excellent adhesion and expands and contracts to resist cracking which allows water to get in under the paint which is bad. It also has built in primer and is a one coat paint. I always do two coats but that paint can be done and look great with one thorough pass.
Most repaints we do are going over other workers contractor paints which means the cheapest a guy can get to bid a job and then add a quart of water to every gallon to cut it and make it go further. These require almost stripping with a pressure washer. Otherwise the best paint in the world is only as good as the layer under it. So if the first cheap layer peals then the expensive stuff comes off with it.
You did good with your selection.

Looks great.

I store a ton of stuff in my attic in the storage building. I have a 6/12. An 8/12 would be better. I will pm you my number for 20% off behr paints and stains.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 21, 2018, 09:08:46 PM »
Yes, it is the profile. There are two different sizes. As far as i know it is the smaller of the two. The larger looks bad when installed as it hangs down. Just trim it with a razor knife and cut it with a circular saw. Do not cut it real cold this time of the year as it will crack. Warm it up if needed.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 21, 2018, 07:59:33 PM »
Before starting mark every ceiling joist around the perimeter. These are hard to find when fighting the sheet. Then install your first piece. Nail 12? in from the edge and only nail the perimeter at the 8?-12? in from the edge making sure each nail is good. Do not nail the field. If it is deep it will pull through so add another fastener and adjust the guns depth driver. If it is shallow set it. Then before the next piece goes in install the h vinyl. Nailing 12? away from the edge will allow this piece to slide in. The h vinyl gets cut to about 4? and a notch is made in the part that is tucked up in the material. This will allow the perpendicular row to fit without hitting the 4? butt joint piece. Just keep going like this using the previous piece of h vinyl to help hold the next sheet. When you are done use a chalk line preferably white chalk or a non oil chalk and mark every joist row. This makes every fastener hit lumber and not blow a hole through the material. From here finish nailing the fields and also nail the edges.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 21, 2018, 07:32:43 PM »
Here are some tricks on the ceiling hardi. Use H vinyl. Before sliding the piece into the h vinyl take a grinder to the hardi and make sure it will fit in the h vinyl. Usually the ends are mushroomed from the factory and they will not go in, just buzz around the perimeter and clean it up. Grind as fast as you can walk around it is all it takes. A heat gun helps massage the plastics if needed. That ceiling hardi is horrible to do with less than two guys. It is very flexible and breaks easily and is expensive. A 2x4 cut to ceiling height with a flat 3-4? piece on the top can be used as a prop. It is almost impossible to do alone and have it look good. Without H vinyl the joints look wavy and the nails have a tendency to blow the edges out. Start with a chalk line for reference and mark it 4?1/2? from the beam or wall where you will be starting. If the first row is stair stepped the rest is more difficult.
Wish i was closer to your end of Texas. I would lend a hand.
Here is one i just did. Zoom in and you can see the h vinyl and how i staggered the joints.

I do not know how much sand it takes to stop the different bullets. I know they penetrate further than i would have guessed. Sand is easy to dry out and pour down a wall. I imagine with roving bands looting they will more likely be equipped with smaller weapons like handguns and 22 type findings. I hope a strong building with hidden storage has them moving on to easier targets. I would not want to be pinned down in a small building taking fire for any amount of time. I like hiding stuff everywhere. A home is more likely to be burned to the ground. Or at least burned first.
I am liking plywood more than osb currently. A test is hit osb with a hammer as hard as you can and watch the entire hammer and part of the handle go in. Now beat the plywood with a much larger hammer many many more times and all you get is a dent. I would hope this would stop more flying debris better.
I like the suggestion of gravel. It can be installed easily up to 4? where the plywood seam is. From there finish it off with sand through a hole drilled in the top plate using a funnel. Around here we have cheap decomposed granite also.
At some point switching to 8?x8?x16? cinder blocks with rebar doubled up every lift and rebar in every tube filled 100% with maximizer gets stronger and affordable. It will not rot or burn. Then stucco the outside.

People would be better off always building their own storage buildings. The ones that can be purchased pre built around here are expensive and poorly constructed. They utilize 2x3 studs 24?oc and masonite siding with the cheapest three tab shingles a guy can find.
You may be able to put some guys to work prefabbing walls and put your own kit together.
We have done a few storage/well buildings and we try to incorporate hidden storage in the ceiling joists for rifles. The walls and ceiling get osb sheeting on the inside which gets screwed down. The attic floor also has a layer of osb or plywood to create the hidden storage in the ceiling. These screws can be removed in different places to reveal canned food storage and ammo stockpiles. The 3 1/2? cavity can have pine dividers installed so almost anything a guy might want to hide can be stacked.
We have sat down with more than one homeowner and strongly suggested they leave their home for the storage building in the event of a tornado. These homes where we recommended this were framed terribly poorly. The walls had cracks you could fit your fingers into and swayed in the wind.
These small buildings can be made SUPER strong. When we do a reinforced storage building it gets extra concrete anchors during the pour. Then the base plate is anchored more with additional wedge anchors. All plywood sheeting must grab the bottom plate and both top plates then it is best to go with structural soffit.  The inside gets 3/4? plywood. The outside gets hardi and under that 5/8? plywood. The plywood layers stop projectiles like flying studs better than osb. This plywood sandwich can be insulated or foamed inside. Some have us fill the cavity with sand or maximizer in lifts. The sand filled cavity is better with a thicker wall.  Go 2x6 or 2x8. This will stop or slow down bullets.

Here is my 12x14 with 4x8 porch and hidden storage. The window looks like a weak link but there is a 3/4? layer of plywood that slips into slots and is pinned in. It is then painted black to look dark inside. The door locks are anchored into studs and there are metal plates slotted into the studding. I plan to epoxy fill the door and add timbers that also prevent the door from being kicked in.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 19, 2018, 07:20:15 PM »
I am afraid i am of little help here. In Texas we do not use basements. When we hide bunkers underground and under buildings due to our climate insulation down there is of little value.
Does anyone else know the answer?

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 19, 2018, 11:55:59 AM »
JR might be onto something. Some of the 6X6 turned posts already have a square hollow core. Maybe you can find some square tubing that fits inside without drilling and compromising the post. If you do use pipe use heavy pipe. Like rigid electrical conduit pipe or drilling pipe. The thinner fencing pipe used on corners is good with compression to a point. But, if there is a side load that causes any deformation of the wall they will bend real easy. Most posts are only strong when vertical. Induce sway and the post is no longer vertical. Also, on these covers the posts are exposed to more weather as wind blows rain into the structure. Even with good paint the expansion and contraction of the wood forms small cracks in the paint. These cracks absorb water into the post under the paint where it is harder to dry out. This increases the speed at which they rot. If you can find posts treated and rated for ground contact they will last longer. Much longer. The posts i am seeing on the market are treated with a wax type coating which makes them safe to use inside a dwelling. This coating is also used as a food preservatives and is safe and non toxic. But, outside they are not holding up well for extended time periods. 
Another thing worth mentioning is that turned posts with a hollow core get pretty thin where they are turned. The manufacturers are using (4) 2x6?s glued together with a hollow core then turning them to kick out these posts. I think the 6x6 posts are rated for @5500-6000 pounds each but only in compression.
Something else i learned the hard way is to always wrap wooden posts that are getting wrapped with rock really well. They need to be pre painted and wrapped in house wrap or tar paper or both. If not the rock absorbs water this water is transferred to the post and causes the post to swell. This swelling post expands and cracks the rock work which allows more water in and more swelling. 

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 19, 2018, 09:46:16 AM »
Here is a free standing carport we did behind a custom home. We went around and around with the engineer and homeowner on this one. They wanted heavy timber with no braces. Minimalist. We declined to build it without bracing. It is properly built and braced. It is VERY top heavy. All the internals are cedar beam. It moved in every direction 4?-6? even with the corner braces. I have it pinned to an old cedar so the roofers could go up top and be safe. Before we left we also used 1/4? plate on every single joint with through bolts. That is when we removed the tree brace. The plates helped stiffen it up and it is still there today but i do not think it would stand without corner braces. Without the plates and through bolts the movement would have eventually worked the timber locks loose until it failed. Once high winds are factored in bracing is essential.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 19, 2018, 09:29:10 AM »
If you are using the posts i think you are burying them in the dirt and concreting around them will remove any movement and also take the need for using braces on the corners away for a year or two. Then the posts will be either rotted or termite infested and will need to be redone. When we get into free standing structures we go to 4x4 steel posts galvanized and buried in a hole filled with concrete. Or we use imbeds and weld the post to the imbed.
You can do imbeds and attach wooden posts to them but no matter what there will be a pivot point there. Depending on the amount of air push and lift that roof has it could be substantial movement. If it were my structure with my family underneath it i would do at least one of these things.
1) corner braces on wood or iron posts.
2) cement in galvanized posts and have a plate at the top of the post that wraps around the beam and is structurally screwed to the beam removing movement and the ability to lift.
3) Wall in two sides of the structure and internally reinforce the roof structure to stop any side to side movement.
4) Anchor it to an existing structure.
It is nice to match existing structures but it is more important to ensure a structure is stable. The posts can be rocked around and used as a feature that matches some existing rock on the pool or in the yard to keep a theme going. I have been lucky to never have a structure come down. In my part of Central Texas it is common to get straight line winds. I have been on ranches and seen structures that are not braced and anchored properly simply get ripped from the ground and tossed into a pasture. What is more common is less wind that induces sway and the roof being heavy pivots the posts and lays over. If the corner braces are not proper it can snap the post right below the brace.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 17, 2018, 08:26:20 PM »
That is what spelling phonetically will get you. Fonetikaly? If you still do not get it read it out loud to your wife. Thats what i did lol.

Hand Tools, Power Tools, Welders, etc / Re: Dewalt 20Volt impact gun
« on: January 16, 2018, 08:08:59 AM »
I agree that the Rigid has a pretty good warranty. Had my set from over 10 years ago fixed or replaced many times. It is used daily. It is a long and painful process at times though. Eventually my 24V Rigid stuff was warrantied out for 18V stuff which is not nearly as good. Not a fan of Ryobi. The few Ryobi tools we have purchased were geared to homeowners more than the trades. Their batteries did not hold up and i think most of the internals were plastic and stripped out. But, homeowners and older people like the light weight feel. Not a fan of any one tool manufacturer and have a mix of stuff. To me the tool must feel right. Dewalt does not have the best warranty and i think they need to improve the life span of their batteries but i run stuff hard all day and Dewalt is still in my truck. I am going to try the flex volt dewalt stuff soon. Some of my tools get run so hard you can no longer hold them due to their heat. I have actually caught my Rigid drill and circular saw on fire more than once. Rigid replaces them. Makita and Milwaukee are both good also. The battery tools have gotten pretty good over the years. Sometimes when you are really working the tools there is no replacement for a corded tool.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 14, 2018, 10:07:36 AM »
I have always had the same issue you are having with your windows sticking out further than the trim if i understand you correctly. On my next project i think i will mill some trex to build the window trim out 3/16?-1/4? beyond the window rather than being that amount subflush.
If i remember correctly you have vinyl windows. Those usually have a return which will allow the trim and window to be sealed whereas aluminum window have no return so you end up with a void that is troublesome to seal. I have tried doubling up hardi but my nailers will not get a nail through 1 1/2? hardi. Plywood would be easy but would rot unless sealed well. I think trex or composite deck material would work and be millable.
Your project is looking great.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 09, 2018, 08:08:25 AM »
Usually the screw will not be sub flush with a mis. If it is a nail then usually the drywall will pop off and expose the loose nail. The real issue is this thing may pull the nails and screws out of the wood.LOL. It is amazing that some magnets can be so strong. There are warnings about placing this magnet near anything like credit cards and pacemakers.
I have two rolling magnets we use to remove roofing nails from job sites after a new roof is installed. We also use them to clean up after a framing job. The first time i thought the magnet was just real heavy but it was magnetized to the rebar in the concrete. I hate moving that magnet in anything but my trailer. I always wondered if it would ruin the trucks computers. One customer with a pacemaker took one look at the magnet and could not leave fast enough.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 08, 2018, 04:43:41 PM »
Today i picked up a handy tool at Home Depot. The house we are installing trim on has 5/8? fire rated sheetrock walls with a very thick Monterey drag texture. The original builder did not transfer stud marks or hazards to the ground so now it is a guessing game. My stud finder is having a hard time getting through these thick walls. I was looking at better stud finders and came across a cheap solution from a company that focusses on hiring vets and is made in the USA sold at homedepot. 
The concept is so simple i did not think this $10 tool would work. It is a plastic pointed handle with two magnets in it. You go back and forth on the wall until it finds a sheetrock screw or nail. I was shocked at what happened when i found the first nail. The magnet is so strong it pulled the tool out of my hand and cut my finger when it slapped against the wall. The top magnet grabbed a fastener and the lower magnet pivoted the upper magnet against the metal and it dropped pointing down with gravity. Shockingly great in its function and simplicity. I give this item two thumbs and one bloody finger up.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 06, 2018, 09:30:01 PM »
I have been trying to figure out the best way to move this thread forward. I have gone back and forth. Here is my plan and i will leave it here. If there are no objections and if Don is ok with this format we will proceed. If not we will figure something else out.
I see this thread as a discussion and question and answer area. A place where we all share knowledge and learn from each other. I am planning on learning from the input given to me from you guys. I want to improve my own skillset as well as help others avoid pitfalls i have personally been in. I would like my mistakes pointed out so i can better my work. I am never offended at all especially with constructive criticism.
I do many different trades and jump around from job to job as well as building my own home slowly with my family. If i had a thread for every job or task i think we would be jumping back and forth and something would be lost and it would be confusing for everyone especially me. I am afraid i will have questions asked to me that i overlook. What i am considering is just posting my work here in the hopes that it will start a discussion on every aspect that you guys have interest in. Personally i do not care where the discussion goes based on the jobs we are all doing and the questions we all have. I would like to make it picture heavy. This will take some time on my part to gather images and post when i have wifi or a way to upload quickly.
I am planning on going back to square one with my personal home on here. I have tons of photos. Then just add work that i am doing for customers.
Anyway, what do you guys want to do? Where do we go from here?

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 06, 2018, 08:44:06 PM »
It looks good. One thing to watch for is the clearance on the knob side top. In the photo it looks tight. But, that could just be an illusion with my phone due to the angle and the door not being 100% shut. But other than that the door looks well done. Your hinge side gap looks perfect. That door is hung better than 99% of the doors i see. That is a good percentage as i am never 100% satisfied with my own door hanging. Sometimes there is a give and take with a poorly framed opening. I have seen doors so bad that the knob strike does not grab. I have had homeowners just deal with that for years. I have also had doors bind so bad that the knob binds. The hinges were spring putting a lot of pressure on the door to pull away from the stop knob side.
One issue i am seeing is the companies hanging these doors on the frames before we purchase them are installing the back cut in the wrong direction. When you get into thicker doors or fine finishing the knob side of the door must be back cut. The door companies usually buy slabs and hang the door, template and route out the hinges and drill out the knob. The diagonal point of the door where the door approaches the knob side of the frame is shorter on the side of the door that touches the stop. This allows it to pivot close to the frame without touching. Then the opposite side of the door on the knob side is longer. This closes the reveal to a tighter tolerance. If you look at the top of your doors you will likely see a back cut. Sometimes it is hard to see unless you have a square. It is usually about 1/8?.
When this back cut is backwards the stop side of the door impacts the frame. Then when you force it shut it gaps. This leaves a less than ideal gap. Then if the door is close but not impacting the frame the installer walks away and the painter shows up. The paint thickness on the door and the frame eat away at your once tight clearance and it impacts again.
When door manufacturers get this back cut wrong it complicates things. Sometimes this back cut which should be on the knob side is on the hinge side. This causes gapping issues.
One of these gapping issues is a door that feels like it is springing away from the frame stop knob side. This is because the hinges were installed incorrectly or this back cut is on the wrong side. There are times where i loosen a hinge and slide in a plastic spacer. These spacers go under the leading or trailing edge of the hinge jamb side. The sort of plastic that is used for banding on cardboard boxes. If the plastic is installed on the outer edge of the door under the hinge close to the edge it will open the reveal on the hinge side in turn closing the gap on the knob side. This takes the springy feeling away if the gap was too tight and the door is impacting the frame on the hinge side. Some of this springy feeling is because the manufacturer did not fully route under the hinge on either side. Or they installed the screws crooked and a screw head is impacting the hinge face binding it.
The opposite will happen if that plastic strip is put under the hinge closer to the stop. This will close the gap on the hinge side and give you more room on the knob side. These plastic bands can be doubled up or tripled up. Any more than that and other methods need to be used. It is unlikely to ever need more than two.
I am afraid i am starting to muddy the waters. There are hundreds of large and small techniques to adjust a door. I have all those in a bag of tricks i have used for twenty years. These are very hard to teach someone over the internet. It takes someone standing beside me with a bad door and a worse opening.
It will be interesting to see how the doors go in on my personal home. I framed it with my daughter and walked her very slowly through the framing process. My house is mathematically perfect. Something that is hard to do on a paying job. One area where i miscalculated is shrinkage. When i patterned my top plate to my bottom plate i did not account for the extra shrinkage of the wet pressure treated wood. This has allowed the bottom to contract more than the top. In some areas where we have nine foot ceilings the difference from base to top is 1/16? in that span. But, that is the worst area i could fine. Everything else is set to absolute zero.

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