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Messages - husker77c
101
« on: February 29, 2016, 12:45:10 PM »
Well my "wife", still weird saying that lol, is in TX for work so I took the Ford out to fill it up with diesel and check my mods. It is a completely different truck. Builds 30#s of boost and runs like a scalded dog. If it was an auto I'd say it's close to keeping up with my 6.7. Crazy that a few tweaks can yield that kind of gain. My tune is pretty close to perfect too. A little black smoke when u get on it and a pretty good haze when it's pulling. From what I've read you want just a light haze when getting on it. Im Not going to mess with it anymore for now though. I need to concentrate on getting the hole in the floor patched up and getting it to be a livable truck instead of a project. Going to start driving it a lot more to figure out any bugs.
On a side note we had a bunch of fuel perks from groceries so I got 30 gallons for free. I had intentions on filling both tanks and putting some in bed mounted tank but since they shut me off at 30 gallons I'll save that for next time.
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102
« on: February 27, 2016, 06:45:51 PM »
Thank you everyone. I will be sure to heed everyone's advice lol. It was a borderline shotgun wedding. We decided to do it right after New Years. My dads health is good and I'm still laid off so it worked out. Small ceremony in San Antonio right on the riverwalk.
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103
« on: February 27, 2016, 09:09:53 AM »
Well I worked on the truck a bit the last few days. I took a couple weeks off and got married so now that that whole situation is normalizing I found a little time to tie up more loose ends. I had to pull the intake off to put a gasket on the intake horn that I forgot so I took the opportunity to do a little tuning of the AFC. I removed the fuel plate, I will probably grind the stock plate to a more aggressive profile and re install but I'm going to run it without the plate for awhile till I can get around to that.    Also pulled the AFC apart and loosened some things and tightened some things to start turning up the fuel. From what I've read it's a painstaking process to get it all set just right so I marked down what I did, number of turns, etc so I can see if it went better or worse. Once it warms up a bit I'm going to start it up and go for a drive to see where I'm at. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
104
« on: February 24, 2016, 09:55:21 PM »
I'll have to check that out. Twitter is, like you said, probably the best place for fast moving news stories. I'm on it constantly when there is a big situation going down. Bundy ranch, Baltimore riots etc.
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105
« on: February 23, 2016, 11:36:47 AM »
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bX3EZCVj2XAPretty interesting and scary. What I'm struggling with though is how does this continue after the fall of the Soviet Union? Is it that good of a process that once it's set in place it keeps propagating? Would like to hear people's thoughts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
106
« on: February 23, 2016, 11:08:17 AM »
Neg, Hyundai.....
I heard he really preferred a Smart car, or failing that a Tesla electric car.
Teslas are coooool. They had one on display in a mall we were in. If my ship ever comes in I'll own one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
107
« on: February 08, 2016, 04:18:18 PM »
I'm a little late to the party on this thread but I figured I would chime in.
I've been itching to build an SBR for several years now. Unfortunately the way I travel and my residency "fluctuations" I'm afraid it would be more of a hassle than I want to deal with. I've got the trust already set up and I've started on the paperwork several times but never finished it. I planned on cutting down my colt if I ever decide to do it.
That being said I've done a bunch of research on barrel lengths and I decided if I were to do it the 10.5" barrel is the best compromise. You still get decent velocity and it's short enough to actually make a difference in overall length. Add on a can and its about the same overall length as a 16" gun without a suppressor. Anything shorter than that would be obnoxiously loud and throw a significant fireball, a can will handle most of that though. A 7" barrel is going to throw a lot of un burnt powder out and some suppressor manufacturers won't warranty their product on a really short barrel for that reason.
As far as effectiveness of the round with a shorter barrel I think that question was answered above. Get a nasty ballistic tip round and it should perform as well or better as 55gr FMJ out of a 20". You can find a round that will be very mean at 10-100 yards.
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108
« on: February 08, 2016, 01:50:46 PM »
I installed it just like the picture with the louver opening facing towards the back of the truck. A little googling and that was kind of the consensus. So I got the exhaust as done as it can be right now. It is sooooo much quieter with the muffler and a 4' straight pipe off the back of the muffler. It took some experimenting to get my heat and wire speed right when I welded up the few pieces I had to weld but I'm happy with it.
Now if I get the hole in the floor patched up you might be able to carry on a conversation in this beast.
Unfortunately though my front driveshaft isn't going to be long enough. So I'm going to have to plunk down the money to get it lengthened. The cardan joint needs rebuilt anyway but I was hoping I could use what I had to get me by until I went back to work. No such luck.
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109
« on: February 08, 2016, 10:06:34 AM »
Had to put the gauge pod on hold to work on running gear before the rain. Which way should this muffler go? Should the opening of the louvers face towards the front of the truck or the back?  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
110
« on: February 03, 2016, 06:19:08 PM »
Cool idea. Simple, check. Effective, check.
Thanks. I'll try to get it finished in the next day or two. Still have to wrap the whole thing in a t shirt and cover it with resin. Then paint it up and wire it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
111
« on: February 03, 2016, 04:51:12 PM »
Yeah it's a bit obnoxious. I wish I could put them in the actual instrument bezel but I haven't figured out a way without a complete dash rebuild, which is not high on the priority list. None of the factory gauges work since the swap so it's all the basic needs to monitor.
The fuel gauge and speedometer are the only factory gauges that work and there's no way to put them down further below without blocking the fuel gauge or speedo.
This will work for now. But a full dash rebuild will come in the future.
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112
« on: February 03, 2016, 01:56:03 PM »
I'm taking advantage of the 60* temps here in PA. I got my boost leak fixed. Had an ill fitting clamp on the compressor outlet. A quick drive got me 18# of boost which is right where it should be in a stock configuration. I moved on to mounting the rest of my gauges. I decided to make a fiberglass pod to sit on top of the dash. I started by masking off anywhere I didn't want resin going.  Add plastic so it doesn't run  Then draw the rough outline of the size of the base.  Next is laying the resin and mat. I always seem to be off on the ratio of resin to hardener so it either dries before I get it layed up or takes forever to dry. I got it pretty close. I pour some resin on the piece, brush it even then lay the mat on top of that. Then add more resin to soak into the mat and make sure all the edges stay down.  Then wait  After it dries pull it off the dash and remove as much tape as you can. Then cut on the line I made a few steps before.  Final bottom piece t will need some more trimming but it's close.  Now decision time. I can't decide if I want to use 2" PVC for the actual pods or if I want to cut a piece of wood and drill out the gauge holes. I'm leaning towards the wood that way I can add an indoor outdoor thermometer to the pod.    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
113
« on: February 03, 2016, 08:53:24 AM »
I've got .035 wire. I will see about getting some smaller stuff. How small you thinking ? .030? Smaller yet? My
Machine can run 2 or 10# spools.
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114
« on: February 03, 2016, 07:45:39 AM »
I follow a bunch of NE stuff on FB with my family still being there. It said last night they pulled the plows and told the state police to find shelter. Stay safe man.
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115
« on: February 02, 2016, 08:29:18 PM »
Awesome. Thanks for the tips guys. Shouldn't be very many cuts. All I have to weld is a 45* off the downpipe, a 3"-4" reducer, and some straight sections to the muffler, think I'm going to do a turn down after I get it back past the cab. With the larger rear tank I'm going to have to find a shop to create a tail pipe. If I get it that far back the tail pipe can wait.
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116
« on: February 02, 2016, 04:58:05 PM »
My buddy had one almost identical to that.
What I remember about it was
1) it was reliable
2) adequate power to work
3) not a huge aftermarket for performance goodies but there was some stuff you could do to it.
That's about all I can help you with. He only had it for a couple years.
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117
« on: February 02, 2016, 02:59:02 PM »
I'm about to start the exhaust for the Zombie ford and as I've said in the past I'm no welder. I have welded on some trailers in the past and it seems if it's thicker steel I just set my welder on kill and they turn out fairly well.
The thin exhaust tubing may present a challenge for me. I have a Hobart Handler 140 wire feed but no regulator so I will have to do it with flux core wire.
Any tips? Or things I need to watch out for?
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118
« on: February 02, 2016, 02:52:29 PM »
Figured out the voltage regulator issue. Fuse duh haha Also ran two 1/0 from the batteries to my distribution post instead of the one I had before. The post would get hot if it didn't crank immediately and this should help with that. Still a rats nest but coming along.   I'm going to re make the short piece from the distribution post to the fuse block and figure out something besides the twisted wires running into the second fuse block. I had the fancy fuse block forever and didn't really know what to do with it so I figured I'd throw it in there and use it. It has a built in voltmeter that I am going to hook to a switch so it's not a constant current draw. Then I can flip a switch and check battery voltage and when the trucks running I'll be able to make sure the alternator is working. Started so much stronger with the two runs of cable and two batteries. Fired off in what seemed like an instant. As long as the weather holds out I'll start tackling the exhaust later this week. Going to start a thread asking for tips on welding exhaust pipe in another section. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
119
« on: February 01, 2016, 06:18:11 PM »
Finally got the truck down to the new house from the in laws. The 150 mile shakedown run was a success. Kind of. I had suspicions the external voltage regulator wasn't working properly and I was right. The alternator wasn't charging the entire trip. I lost my speedometer about 75 miles into the trip and lost all my other gauges about 100 miles in. The truck still ran no troubles other than the already known issues. I knew it would run with zero electrical but to actually do it was a pretty cool feeling. The only downfall was with the boost leak I have to keep an eye on my EGTs and when I lost all gauges I was blind. I just made sure I babied it and didn't stay in the throttle going up hills. So today I got some work done on it. Didn't take any pics along the way but I got both batteries mounted and tied together. Also started on the rats nest of wiring with the regulator. I have to get it running and charging first then I'll work on the boost leak then on exhaust.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
121
« on: January 12, 2016, 12:23:05 PM »
Careful- people will want you to tow it to their house and help on projects! ........I'm moving, can I borrow your pick-up truck........ :) Very cool, now you don't have to pack if you move or want to go mobile workshop!
That's actually what one of my friends husband does. Keeps stuff in a trailer so it's easy to get to a project or what not.
This was partly my intention. The zombie ford is up at the in laws on their back forty and needs some more work to get it ready to daily drive. This way all I have to do is hook on to the trailer and go and I know I have all my tools and a place to put a heater to get in out of the cold while I'm working on it. I doubt I will ever lose my nomadic tendencies even though we have a house. Plus if something goes bad in the world/society I can load it up and bug out and have enough to be useful at the in laws or friends etc. If anything goes bad we will have to bug out, no question on that, so this goes along with that plan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
122
« on: January 12, 2016, 10:22:10 AM »
Well it's a trailer. So I guess I could have posted in the trailer forum but it's for tools and storage so it kind of belongs here. Anyhow I have a 16' enclosed trailer I bought several years back and it's been used for storage at my in laws. Well we just moved into a new house that doesn't have a garage so I needed a place to store my tools and things that don't belong in the house. I hauled it up to MI while I was spending time with my dad over the holidays to bring back my snow blower and a few other things and since my dad is doing really well with his cancer we decided to build a workbench in it to mount my mini mill and drill press and also give me a little space to work on things. I also built a stand for my tool chest so I'm not working out of a couple small tool boxes. Didn't take any progress pics but here's the finished project.  It's of course filled up with a snow blower and my riding lawn mower but I'm happy with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
123
« on: December 09, 2015, 09:41:03 AM »
My two cents. Get rid of the electric pumps completely. Stock lift pump will support fuel for a whole lot of power. The electric pumps are just not necessary unless you're building a crazy engine, sled pulling, drag race etc and they just add complication.
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There is actually a lot of wisdom in that statement from a survival truck build perspective.
I did not realize the need for much higher pressure when I added the Kennedy pumps. I was thinking it was more like a VE motor and I didn't need a stock pump, or if it ever gage up the goat, the Kennedy's would carry my happy butt on to Nirvana!
That is my whole angle on these builds. That's my first priority on my truck and all else is gravy. Your thinking is not off base though. People building high HP trucks block off the factory pump and use electrics all the time so the theory is sound. If you want to keep the electrics it shouldn't be that hard to bypass them temporarily to see if that is causing your issue. If not then run em how you've got them. They can't hurt anything if they aren't causing a restriction. I have read about engines that wouldn't run without a proper return. When u said you had 1/4" return or maybe 5/16" I believe you should have 5/16". That's what I have in the ford. I Tee'd the pump and injector line return into one and tied that into my factory steel return line. Just more info for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
124
« on: December 09, 2015, 08:11:29 AM »
Just FYI for everyone. When my cummins was in the dodge it was all stock. I hooked up fuel pressure, boost and EGT gauges. I eliminated the fuel heater and running the stock set up I was getting 22psi fuel pressure at idle. With the Ford the kid that removed the engine jacked the factory fuel filter housing all up and I couldn't use it. I plumbed a remote filter set up that went in between the factory lift pump and the IP. I get 30 psi at idle now.
Just shows how restrictive the stock filter element is and shows what the factory lift pump is capable of.
My two cents. Get rid of the electric pumps completely. Stock lift pump will support fuel for a whole lot of power. The electric pumps are just not necessary unless you're building a crazy engine, sled pulling, drag race etc and they just add complication.
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125
« on: December 03, 2015, 01:46:25 PM »
I've had that pen for several years now mostly gets moved from truck to bag to drawer. It's to heavy to write comfortably with. I know that's not its intended purpose but just saying.
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126
« on: December 03, 2015, 12:24:11 PM »
We have heat, big hammers and long bars.
Alone or in combo, something will work!
I was going to buy the socket, but the big ol "L" bar is so cooler and harder to loose.
I could lose it. Guaranteed I could lose it immediately after I used it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
127
« on: December 03, 2015, 12:18:56 PM »
Couple ways I've found.
1) ether. Spray it lightly around all the boots and places it could leak. If it sucks the ether in you get a quick jump in your idle. I tried that I didn't get anything though. I'm not entirely sure of the theory because after the turbo all the piping is going to be pressurized. Even with a leak it should have at least some pressure which I would think would prevent ether from entering the system.
2) build a boost leak detector. It's basically some plumbing fittings from the hardware store with an air stem in the end. I have to research a little further but i think it's a fernco rubber coupling with a pvc pipe cap on the end. Drill a hole in the cap and insert air stem. Shouldn't cost more than $10 to make. Hook it up immediately after the turbo and apply about 20# of air to the system and listen for leaks. Have to make sure you're regulated so you don't blow things apart. From what I hear it's pretty easy to hear the leaks with that deal. If you can't then spray soapy water on connections and look for bubbles.
If you google boost leak detector you should bring up some threads other places that have pics and such.
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128
« on: December 03, 2015, 10:41:41 AM »
Very true. I can polish it up now that I can drive it. There's so much still to do. Transfer case linkage isn't hooked up, front driveshaft is in the bed, I still have to mount and secure the second battery in under the hood. The long run of cable to the tool box was drawing too much current. I let some magic smoke out of the cable ends while trying to crank it. I got a couple Optimas that both fit on the drivers side. I have a massive boost leak I have to find. I'm only building 12# going up hill and if I don't get out of it the EGTs head for the moon. The downpipe dumps into 3" flex pipe with no clamp because I can't fit one around it due to the starter. The flex pipe is tie wired up next to the frame and current exhaust. I've ordered the pieces to finish the exhaust but just regular shipping finally instead of next day air. There are some really cool optima battery trays on eBay I may get a couple to secure the batteries. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=121693175529 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
129
« on: December 03, 2015, 10:29:49 AM »
I really hope it's something simple we all have overlooked. Good thing these are easy to work on. Even pulling the head (if necessary) is only a few hour job.
That barring tool would sure have been handy when I did my valves and governor springs
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130
« on: December 03, 2015, 08:10:07 AM »
Oh you guys really really really shouldn't feel bad. I only had a month in the shop I rented so this truck is held together with duct tape and bailing wire. Why do you think I haven't posted any more pics? I'm not proud of some of the things I had to do to get it out of the shop.
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131
« on: December 01, 2015, 11:29:28 AM »
The tight lash could be a problem. I've read where some people set them at like .006and .014. I set mine at .010 and .020 like you were saying. So depending on how tight they actually are they could be opening to far to soon and getting unburnt fuel out the exhaust.
Are you 100% sure it has marine Pistons? Not doubting you but if you didn't put em in and the seller said they were etc. If it had standard pistons and marine injectors and the big delivery valves couldn't the injectors be spraying a lot of fuel outside the bowls which could causing fuel out the exhaust?
What size turbo is on it? It could be you're just pushing more fuel than you have air for. Big injectors and bigger DVs will flow a lot of fuel. Flooding it when you hit the throttle so to speak. From what I've read its rare to have a bad p-pump.
Edit
Could it be the boost line running to the afc is pinched a little bit causing then afc to read a higher boost pressure and consequently pumping more fuel?
Edit again.
Could be a broken injector I guess too.
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132
« on: November 30, 2015, 07:59:41 PM »
This is the exact reason I will take my truck somewhere to have the timing bumped. I want no part of that
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133
« on: November 30, 2015, 04:41:42 PM »
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134
« on: November 30, 2015, 08:53:24 AM »
I don't have the attention to detail some others on this board have. I'm more of a quick and dirty kind of guy. And quick is a relative term. I'd hoped to have it done in ten days. I'm close to a month  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
135
« on: November 29, 2015, 08:33:17 PM »
Victory Should be able to take it for a drive tomorrow  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
136
« on: November 28, 2015, 07:03:53 AM »
Lets start with #1.
Dehydration with no electricity. I've always wanted to build a solar dehydrator for veggies. Can the same technique be applied to meat?
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137
« on: November 26, 2015, 08:03:24 PM »
So I just read an article about a guy building a backyard smoke house. I thought we could open a discussion about smoking meat. Not smoking for a BBQ but smoking for longer term storage. I've been thinking a lot lately about grid down scenarios (happens when I'm laid off with too much time on my hands). I'm probably going to buy some hard copy books on preservation but figured I'd see what people thought here.
In the article the guy built an outhouse looking building with a firebox a few feet away from the main structure. He ran the chimney to structure so there would be very little heat other than the smoke affecting the meat.
How is this for longer term storage. Not talking years but you could smoke a deer and have it last at least a few weeks I would think.
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138
« on: November 26, 2015, 06:31:01 PM »
What are your thoughts on power service or 911 diesel treatment?
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139
« on: November 26, 2015, 05:56:58 PM »
Custom build. 80 lower Odin works keymod hand guard. Aimpoint PRO and a factory Colt trigger.  The SCAR sneaks in on all my pics. Colt 6720r mostly stock except a Geissele SSE trigger and an Aimpoint T1. This is the rifle I grab if I can take only one.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
140
« on: November 26, 2015, 05:49:11 PM »
Only pic I have of my do it all bolt gun with my SCAR  It's a Ruger MK77 tactical in .243. Factory 20" barrel, factory Hogue stock. Hawke 5X20 scope. I keep telling myself I'm going to upgrade glass but I haven't been shooting much the past couple of years so it's fallen on the back burner. I originally bought it in Montana as a dedicated prairie dog gun. Loaded some hot 55gr varmint loads for it and absolutely loved it for that. Got a few hits on them at 400+ yards. With a target not much bigger than a squirrel I think that's pretty good. Very flat shooting caliber so mostly just used holdovers if I got out really far. Took a couple shots at over 600 yards and didn't hit them but I know they felt the wind. I realized though when shooting a long ways that a 55gr bullet is really affected by wind so I've been trying to figure out a factory load it likes since I've been on the road and can't load for it anymore. Don't have any paper targets that I kept to show groups. But it's more accurate then me that's for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
141
« on: November 25, 2015, 06:39:54 PM »
Anyone ever hear about Federal tires?
They have a 37/12.50 R18 selling for just under $300
That is outstanding
I'd like to know if I'd be out-standing in the cold on a trail somewhere due to tire failure if I used them???
A guy I worked with this year picked up a set for his f250. He like them. Said they howled a bit but overall decent. He got a set of factory size 20s for around $900 to his door. Can't beat that with a stick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
142
« on: November 25, 2015, 07:45:56 AM »
After plumbing my engine I really admire all the work you've put into your fuel system.
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143
« on: November 24, 2015, 05:41:22 PM »
Man, isn't that the way it goes.
That is the whole story of this swap. Solving one problem creates two more. Daily update. I just have to hook up my starter and battery cables and mount my batteries in the tool box and I'll be ready for my test start. Going to drop off some stuff to my welder in the morning to get the exhaust workable. If the test start goes ok I'll be able to finish the exhaust and intercooler pipes then work on hacking up my grill to fit the cooler and it will be done. I already have some things I want to change but I need to get it running and moving and then we go on a shakedown run to MI this weekend if all goes according to plan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
144
« on: November 24, 2015, 03:17:53 PM »
What are the measurements on that cooler? I heard the ford fits the GM grill nice.
That's a 2nd gen dodge intercooler. I should have used a 95-97 powerstroke intercooler but I was trying to shave costs anywhere I could. Saving $200 on a used intercooler cost me ~5 hrs of labor and $150 worth of extra parts. Live and learn. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
145
« on: November 23, 2015, 06:36:45 PM »
Time for the daily update. Engine just needs fluids and power for a test start. Still have to fab intercooler pipes but I know what I'm gonna do so its just a matter of assembling. Got tranny moved back and a couple bolts in the transfer case so I can mock up the driveshaft length and take it to the shop in the morning to be cut. Gonna have all new spicer u joints put in. I think the front one will still work. My solution for tranny mount instead of moving entire cross member.  Not my fab work but only cost $50 for that pretty set up. Some small stuff remaining like throttle cable and fuel shutdown but I have plans for them so it's just a matter of execution. I've added so many new skills to the skill set on this project. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
146
« on: November 22, 2015, 06:19:48 PM »
Man it was one of those days. That is the type of starter I have. So it shouldn't be too bad to wire. I'm going to have to throw another wrinkle in the mix. I'm going to remote mount both my batteries to the tool box. I wanted to run an aux set back there but it will be primary until I can fab up some new battery trays for under the hood. I spent all day almost fabbing up the intercooler mounts and cutting my radiator support. Landlord doesn't want me throwing sparks in my shop so I have to measure go to in laws house and cut and fab them back to shop to measure. But it's starting to look like a truck again.  I'll get back at it in the morning. Still have a day or so before I will be able to start it up. I've set a new goal of having it running and moving by thanksgiving. I'm not enjoying this anymore lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
147
« on: November 21, 2015, 06:21:34 PM »
If anyone wants to chime in I have a question. I'm starting to think about wiring up the starter. I don't remember what went where on the 7.3 and I'm not sure I ever even knew to begin with.
Let me see if I've got this correct. The passenger side fender has the starter relay. One side of that goes to the starter. The other side gets a smaller 12v wire from the battery. The ignition wire goes to the top little post.
Does that sound correct?
Do I need to run a large wire from the battery to the starter and also the wire from the relay to the starter? There is two big terminals on the starter. Assuming one gets the cable from relay and other gets cable from battery?
I imagine I'm making this harder than I need to but googling isn't helping terribly much.
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148
« on: November 21, 2015, 04:44:03 PM »
There is. People use an industrial manifold off of a bread truck or fed ex style truck. Or they flip the manifold over so the turbo comes out the top. The problem with flipping though is the compressor housing hits the exhaust so you have to put a spacer in. And the wastegate hits the AC box that way. No real way to make that work although some people have, I don't know how. Maybe a different wastegate actuator? There is no wiggle room in the mounts. And as it is I had to modify my radiator support to move the radiator forward because it was hitting the fan. I think I finally have the engine plumbed except for the radiator. Fuel lines are done. I had to rig up a remote fuel filter mount because the kid that took my motor out lost all the important things like banjo bolts and v band clamps etc.  Remote mount will get finished up tonight. I put ball valves on either side so I can change filters without losing prime. One dedicated filter and a dedicated water separator. I grabbed Napa filters for the time being but I plan on running Cat filters. Power steering is done with the exception of the hydroboost return line. Waiting on a fitting for that. I think I'm going to lose the battery on the passenger side so I'll have to compensate for that somewhere. If I was still in Texas I'm sure one battery would start it fine but up north I want two. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
149
« on: November 21, 2015, 02:31:20 PM »
Engine is in and bolted down fully tranny is in. Have to cut my floor pan to line up the transfer case shifter then the bottom can be buttoned up and measured for drive shaft on Monday. I'm running into all sorts of little problems. AC in the way.  Mostly stuff like that so I go like crazy then have to stop and scratch my head for an hour till I figure it out. AC is probably coming out. I'm not able to use the factory condenser anyway so that will wait till summer to get fixed. Only need heat the next 6 months anyway. Goal is to be started by tomorrow night. 
150
« on: November 19, 2015, 08:39:35 PM »
Almost ready to set in.  In and bolted down.  Should have it all hooked up and the tranny in by the end of tomorrow. After that it's reassembly and fab mounts for the intercooler. Starting to think about my exhaust situation. May use flex pipe liberally to get it going. I'm having difficulty finding an exhaust shop that can bend 4". I know I'll have to fab up a downpipe but I think if I can get a 90 on the back of the turbo I can use flex pipe to connect to my existing exhaust. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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