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Messages - husker77c
51
« on: March 24, 2016, 04:24:35 PM »
Half a day on my bumper then cleaned up and went to Ulta beauty for the wife. Dozens of curling irons but have to search for that exact one she wants. Same thing with hairspray. Her working and me unemployed makes these types of trips fairly common. Swung by harbor freight for a new welding hood and some flap discs.
Going to dinner tonight with friends for her birthday. Have to figure out how to ease the pain of my arc burned face lol. Being a red head I learned years ago to stay out of the sun. Haven't had a burn like this since I was a kid lol.
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52
« on: March 24, 2016, 04:18:58 PM »
I feel your pain brother. I cut out the winch hole in the front with an angle grinder. Killed a whole blade with just that.
I just got back from harbor freight picked up a new welding hood. I looked for the saw they don't have the exact one I have but they do have a 7" metal cutting circular saw for $60. It's just physically smaller than mine. Well worth the money and saved time. I could've knocked this whole bumper out in a day if I wouldn't have only worked half time on it. With a grinder and wheels it would have taken me at least twice that. And the cuts wouldn't have been near as nice.
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53
« on: March 24, 2016, 02:06:00 PM »
It is a harbor freight metal cutting circular saw. I just looked on their site and I don't see it anymore. Blade is a toothed blade  It produces small chips  I would have probably given up on this project if I had to cut every panel with a cut off wheel and a grinder. It is seriously just like cutting plywood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
54
« on: March 24, 2016, 12:55:05 PM »
Done again for the day. Wife's birthday so have to get around for the evening festivities. Got the top plates on. Had to do three pieces because my 10" plate I had wouldn't be deep enough. Top plate and drivers side.  Passenger side I ran into a little issue. I guess I was off on the wing when I cut it cause I had a massive gap. I tacked on a scrap piece on the back and filled it in. Probably have 3# of wire in this side lol.   This saw is awesome. Cut the 3/16 plate like plywood. I need a new welding hood though. This pipeliner pancake hood is good for running a long bead one one side of a piece of pipe but it doesn't cover near what I need to cover. Major arc burn on my forehead haha. I could use the color though.  Wish list should I ever get a shop. At the very least a plasma cutter. I'd really love a 4'x8' plasma table though Big welding machine with gas. My little Hobart is great on the 3/16", as long as I don't have a 1/2" gap to fill. But trying to get penetration on the 1/2" mounts was next to impossible. My welds ended up looking absolutely horrible where the mounts comes through the bumper. There not very structural so I'll grind them down and make it look decent they'll hold up fine for dear and parking lot impacts. I don't plan on ramming through road blocks with this thing. And it would be better if the bumper caved versus the frame bending. The power of my machine is definitely limited. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
55
« on: March 23, 2016, 10:16:36 PM »
Good start. Don't forget to add some lateral bracing as even that 1/2 plate will not be enough.
Thanks guys. It came together a lot faster than I thought it would. I kept the design simple since its my first project of this scale. I'm hunting gussets for the lateral bracing now. I can find straight 90s in a bunch of styles. Those will be perfect for the inside of the tow hooks. But the way I built it the outside will be a bigger angle. Probably somewhere around 110*. May have to find a plasma table shop to have some cut out. I could cut my own but I've been eyeing these ones with a biohazard symbol cut in them. Or the spider webs are cool too.... Edit- and I just sold my factory bumper for $150. Woo hoo. This whole thing will cost me around $175. A lot better than the $1000+ they want for aftermarket bumpers.
56
« on: March 23, 2016, 03:52:46 PM »
My dad had a 69 camaro SS396 bought it new in late 68. Wadded it up a year later coming home from the bar. Only pics I ever saw were in the wrecking yard.
:(
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57
« on: March 23, 2016, 03:46:22 PM »
I think I'm done for the day. Center plate fitted.  Wing mock up  Wing welded  2 wings welded.   Everything is tacked into place right now. I'll probably pull it off in the morning and weld it up and start grinding on the front piece. Then add the top, weld out, grind, then paint. Then cap the ends or something. Not sure what I'm gonna do there yet. Winging it kind of. I'm going to do a one piece top and then when it comes time for a winch I'll cut the access I need for the controls. If I have enough material I'll start on the brush guard. If not that can be done added at a later date. Can't spend anymore money on this truck right now. Wife is calling it very bad names. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
58
« on: March 22, 2016, 05:47:24 PM »
From what I see the a2 only has ports on the top?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
That is the main difference. No ports on the bottom is supposed to help with muzzle rise. As for the differences of the last pic you posted. All of those are in the same class of flash hider. The long ones are for permanently attaching to a barrel to get around NFA laws regarding short barrel rifles. Not much point to that though cause if you wack 6" off of your barrel then attach a 6" muzzle device you end up with a louder rifle with the same overall length. Unless your wanting to spend upwards of $100 on a flash hider you're best bet is to just go with an A2. I have A2s on all my rifles except the tan one in this pic.  That one is a Spikes I paid I think $90 for and I haven't seen an $82 difference over a gun show $8 A2. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
59
« on: March 22, 2016, 03:51:11 PM »
More progress. Slow but steady. Got my mounts from the machine shop. They tigged in a sleeve for the shackle. It's speced for a 7/8" shackle. 6.5 ton working load limit on the standard and I think 8.5 ton on the alloy if I think I need more strength.  Bolted up  I also got the angle iron cut and drilled for the winch plate.  I have been having second thoughts though. I could just trim my bumper and stick the shackle mounts through the factory bumper and save quite a bit of time and money. I wouldn't have a winch, but I would have solid recovery points. I really want to build a bumper and brush guard to save the front end in the event of a deer impact or Prius attack. Grand scheme it's only a couple hundred bucks and if I don't do it now and I go back to work I won't get it done till next winter. Have to decide tonight though cause I need to get the plate tomorrow if I'm going to build. Decisions.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
60
« on: March 21, 2016, 03:50:59 PM »
Thanks dudes. It looks real good with the license plate back on there too, snugs right up with barely a gap between the plug and the plate bracket.
How i'm trying to figure out what to do with my cheepish Husky truck box.
Option A) Leave it alone
Option B) Take it out, and spray it black with Bedliner
Option C) Sell the chrome one on Craigs, and buy the black Husky one
Option D) Sell the chorme one on Craigs, splurge and get a Camlocker
I vote A, C or D. I've learned this the hard way. Cheap tool boxes are cheap. Very prophetic I know, but true. I bought a tractor supply chest for one of my trucks years back and after about a year and sliding it into and out of a few trucks it wouldn't even latch anymore. I would lean toward D. Never seen the the cam locker in person but it's priced like a weather guard or something similar so it should be of good quality. I skipped the aluminum altogether in the ford and went for a steel chest. A little heavier but a ton stronger than aluminum. I chuck 36" pipe wrenches in it from the ground and it scratches the inside but nothing else. I can't put a dent in it unless I hit it with a sledge I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
61
« on: March 17, 2016, 05:59:45 PM »
I got a little done on the winch bumper. I decided that by the time I bought the bits and hole saws etc that I would need to drill the mounts that I would be money ahead to have a machine shop do it. I drop them off in the morning to have the holes punched.  The back mounts of the winch plate will go like this. I'm using the factory angle iron bumper mount as a stop for the winch to pull against. It should be sturdy enough. Grade 5 bolts are just for mock up. Once I know what I need I'll go get the grade 8s  Then I have some 4" angle iron going to cut a couple pieces of and run them from the mounts down to the plate kind of where my finger is curled in this pic. I'm going to weld the angle to the mount and bolt it to the plate. That way the whole mount will drop down from the bottom to add the winch easily (as easy as bench pressing a 100# over my head while simultaneously trying to line up bolts). Or if I need to replace the winch I don't have to take off the entire bumper.  I also got a quote on the 3/16 plate to finish it. $125 for the steel and I will have about $225 in materials and machine shop labor in it not including a winch obviously. That will wait till I go back to work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
62
« on: March 16, 2016, 09:45:33 PM »
I had a 97 3500 with a mechanics box on it. Door was always a little loose. I ran it through an auction and sold it and when they were driving it up to the front after it sold the guy got out and when he opened the door it dang near fell off. Top hinge broke completely. All I could do was laugh and say all sales final man. I had no clue that was even an issue with those trucks
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63
« on: March 15, 2016, 10:33:22 AM »
Time for a fun project. Bumper/bombproof tow hooks. Mounts will be out of 1/2x4 flat bar with two 5/8" bolts holding it to the frame. I may add a third bolt in between but two grade 8 5/8 should be sufficient.  These will come through the front plate of the bumper and will be where I attach the shackles. Then I will attach the 1/2x4 cross piece to the frame mounts kinda like this. Only on the bottom side. Then I will probably pick up a prefab winch plate to attach to the cross member.  I'm debating on what to use for the actual bumper. I've considered a piece of channel iron that I could wittle down and section to give it some bends or just getting some 3/16 plate and building it like Square D. It will be a lot better going that route but I've never done anything similar and the channel I think would be easier. I also don't know what I'm going to eventually do for tires but in case I want to use Hummer tires I scored these on Craigslist. $25 for a set of rims with three bald tires. Had to pay $40 to get them dismounted but at least I have options. And for the price I couldn't pass it up. 16.5 wheels are getting hard to find.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
64
« on: March 13, 2016, 09:06:49 PM »
I like Black Hawk Down and Saving Private Ryan. I just started watching the series The Pacific. It's pretty good so far
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65
« on: March 13, 2016, 08:56:56 PM »
makes sense. I guess I wasn't taking into account the thermal insulating properties of the cast exhaust housing.
Yeah ideal placement from what I've heard. And where I put mine was on the firewall side of the collector.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
66
« on: March 13, 2016, 06:05:05 PM »
I got a few more things done. Sound deadened and sealed up the front doors and installed my new eBay door panels.    I also got the hole in the floor taken care of. Still have to put the transfer case shifter back in.  Also installed some new speakers in the front door. It's starting to be livable again and not a completely tore down truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
67
« on: March 11, 2016, 10:33:59 PM »
Well I downloaded Gaia. It's pretty cool. I need some more time to play with it but from wha I'm seeing so far it's not better than a Garmin unit. I'm sure it does more and the layering of maps is pretty cool but the tracking has to be turned on every time you want it to track your route. I also haven't figured out how to display the speed and other things I want to display.
I'm sure it's better than a Garmin but I'm thinking maybe I'm wanting more than I actually need. Isn't that the truth with everything.
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68
« on: March 11, 2016, 10:18:30 PM »
This is only the beginning I'm afraid.
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69
« on: March 11, 2016, 10:16:41 PM »
I will have a hot rod someday with a small block. I've wanted one since high school. I'll be watching this one.
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70
« on: March 11, 2016, 07:14:46 AM »
I agree that the videos of the shooting seem off. Why did they shoot into the truck after lavoy was shot? Why was lavoy shot in the back etc. The second road block further up the road after the initial traffic stop looks to be baiting them into running. The strategic location they chose for the road block that had no cell service, and on a blind corner. The L shaped ambush that they had them in when they drove into the snow bank. But it's hard to prove misconduct by the LEOs when the events leading up to it look so bad.
The reason I feel this will never get much more traction than discussions on forums (and there are a lot of discussions on forums I frequent) is because they had no business in Oregon in the first place. The ranchers in Oregon had stated repeatedly they were not wanted there. The occupation of the refuge was blundered from the get go. Them putting a video out asking for snacks. Their repeated calls for help from other patriot groups, that went un answered. Lavoy stating on national news that he would die before going to jail etc.
Granted none of us were there to get first hand reports of what was happening and the media spun this how the powers wanted it spun. But that being said the official narrative plays out that these guys were anti government domestic terrorists who were hell bent on going out in a blaze of glory to prove a point.
It's hard to get people to investigate something like that. You've got some people yelling about it, and rightfully so. Scandals or police wrong doing need the media to inform the populace and they've spun it so out of this world that 90% of America thinks these guys were crazy gun nuts.
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71
« on: March 10, 2016, 08:48:25 AM »
*Disclaimer*
This is me from the outside looking in. I have no kids yet.
My wife and I have this discussion on a daily basis it seems. We are talking about having kids and how we will raise them. These kids are the spawn of generation X and the participation trophy mentality that began when there parents were coming up. They were given what they wanted due to the parents fear of being "those" parents in their circles. Spoiled doesn't necessarily mean being bought things they want. It also means not ever being told no and having little to no consequences when they broke rules.
I blame the schools as well. We got into fights growing up and had all sorts of trouble but we only ever got suspended for a day or two or couldn't go to sports practice that day. That ended up being terrible punishment because you'd have to run for hours straight or do push ups and set ups until you couldn't move. Today if your kids get into a fight you're looking at a criminal case and lawsuits.
Think it's bad now? Wait till the kids running around now are having kids. The kids raised on iPads as pacifiers, and liberal parents who need safe spaces and are weary of trigger words. The McMansion crowd of The Prius and gluten free meals.
My wife and I want to have kids not only because we love each other and want to bring another life into the world but because there is going to be a need for people to balance out the current crop of Bernie Sanders loving and America hating people that are being raised now.
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72
« on: March 10, 2016, 08:28:27 AM »
Yes it was. I have to keep my wife from using the points to fill up her puny gas tank in the jeep. She doesn't see that we are better off using them for the higher priced fuel in my trucks and larger quantities they take. .70 savings on 10 gallons isn't enough for me to use them. I treat the points like gold haha
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73
« on: March 10, 2016, 08:26:11 AM »
That is very interesting thanks for that link. If they did do a nationwide backed alternate currency though how long would it take for the bankers to arrange some kind of regulation for it? Taking matters into your own hands when taking on the "man" usually leads to the man destroying you.
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74
« on: March 09, 2016, 09:00:50 AM »
Same here. Heard of it. Have no experience with it. And I'd rather not use a laptop. Although with a large hard drive you could store every map you ever needed.
We used to use streets and trips by Microsoft before handheld or auto based GPS systems became the standard. Could plug the lat and longs into it and draw a pipeline which helped tremendously in finding access roads and such. You can do that with a garmin now though.
The lowrance units they use for the Baja races are awesome. Just cost an arm and a leg for them. There receivers update 10 times a second.
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75
« on: March 09, 2016, 08:16:51 AM »
Rubio and Kasich need to drop out, like now. Were on our way to at best a contested convention and at worst a brokered one.
76
« on: March 09, 2016, 08:15:37 AM »
This is just another step to a cash less society. If they eliminate the $100 bill then it will be much harder for individuals to keep large sums of cash out of banks. They are saying the reason is because it makes it harder for people doing illegal things to conduct business, but the real reason is control and tracking. Cash transactions leave no trace of what you bought or who you bought it from etc.
77
« on: March 09, 2016, 08:10:24 AM »
Too bad you didn't have more running diesels to put all that cheap fuel in!
35 gallon limit... :-((
Running diesels? Man I own a bunch
C-Max
Square D (But it doesn't run)
4720 John Deere
1025 John Deere
VW Toureg
1150B Case
Suzuki DR650 (At least I want to make it diesel)
I tried to scam Giant Eagle up here last week, they limit us to 30 gallons :( I had 2.90 in fuel perks and diesel is around 2.10 here so I was going to push the system as far as I could. I needed to fill up both tanks in the Ford, and i was going to start filling up the 100 gal tank in the bed. I prepaid with cash to make sure i didn't get cut off for some weird credit card limit deal and went to work. Then when it shut off at 30 gallons I realized the jig was up. That didn't even completely fill both tanks haha. I figured there would be a cut off somewhere and I found it. At least I got 30 gallons for free. and still have .70 in perks leftover.
78
« on: March 09, 2016, 07:51:09 AM »
Ive been thinking some more about it, and I've come up with some requirements.
1-Has to be able to download maps for offline use, must be able to be used without cell signal, wifi, etc.
2-Must track speed, distance, altitude, etc. And have a display of said parameters.
3-Must track routes and leave an on screen "trail" of where I've been,
4-Would be nice to be able to layer different maps, USGS topo maps overlaid onto a map that has roads clearly marked.
I'm going to bite the bullet and download an app called Gaia. Its $20 but it has a lot of great reviews and appears to do most of the things i want it to do.
I'll report back
79
« on: March 08, 2016, 08:00:51 PM »
So hopefully I'll be going back to work soon and I told myself I was going to buy myself a new GPS system. I have a 7" tablet that I never use and thought about re purposing it into a stand alone GPS.
Well In my research I came across some apps that people were talking about. Does anyone use any apps for this purpose?
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80
« on: March 08, 2016, 01:14:10 PM »
This heating oil thang is all greek to me, but i will tell ya, nothing but pump fuel goes in my modern truck. period. ......and even then it's a gamble.
Yep. Especially in a vehicle under warranty. Double especially if it's a new to market engine. I learned that with the 6.7 cummins I bought when they first switched to them. I was at the stealership at least a half dozen times for minor issues. I've never seen hho oil, but if it's dyed you will have to run hundreds of gallons through the system to get the dye out. And even then I would be Leary about taking it in for service. And the massive massive fines involved with being caught running dyed fuel. I know people that have done it and still do it but I'm not one of them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
81
« on: March 04, 2016, 06:41:37 PM »
There's nothing wrong with the black one. I prefer the tan one because it's a lot thinner and I can grip it better when I'm shooting. The black one just has a bunch of un necessary rails. This is a minor issue in the grand scheme of things. Time is something I'm starting to have an abundance of and I start thinking of things I can play with.
It's a carbine length gas system. And the barrel nut looks to be a standard nut but I've never owned a rifle with standard hand guards and a front sight post so I can only go by pictures of what a standard one is.
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82
« on: March 04, 2016, 04:28:15 PM »
I guess I always thought the purpose of the QD would be to get it off quickly in the event you broke your optic and were in a bad situation and needed to keep shooting. In that scenario I could care less about return to zero. I don't see myself spending more than I did for the gun to put an optic on it and then taking it off to shoot with the irons, unless Someone was shooting back at me and the glass was shattered or something. But I have no formal training so maybe I'm missing something?
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On one of our flights up near the Syrian border, one aircraft took fire...FROM THE SYRIANS! The bullets struck a rotor blade, the fuselage and one of the gunners personal M4. His M4 was destroyed by the single AK round tearing it up. Had that been just the ACOG, then the weapon could have still been used accurately with BUIS.
On another engagement the gunner was hit in the chest armor, and the power chord going to his mini gun was nearly severed rendering the gun useless. My point is in a fight, the darnedest things seem to happen. So losing an optic is well within the realm of possible, I believe
Oh I'm sure there's lots of ways to destroy an optic in those scenarios. Or leaning it up against something and it slides off and hits just right Murphy's law and all that. Although there is that video of Larry Vickers tossing a rifle with an Aimpoint out of a helicopter and it comes out unscathed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
83
« on: March 04, 2016, 03:51:06 PM »
That's kind of what I figured I would get in response, obviously was hoping someone had found something that works great as far as GMRS, but ham is the best solution because you can always improve your comms abilities of desired.
I looked at the tech license back in 2011 shortly after I got out of active duty, would have been able to pass it with minmal studying as a lot of it was still fresh on the brain. Yea I think wife and I will have to add this to the to do list.
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You might as well study a little more and get your general at the same time you get your tech. I got mine while I was laid off a couple winters ago. Found a local club that was having a test. Had a week to study and I crammed it all in and passed both tech and general in one sitting. General opens up pretty much everything you could ever want as far as frequencies go and it's not that much harder to study for both. There are some apps out there that quiz you and a lot of free resources for study material. I've done close to nothing with my license since I got it but it's on my list when I go back to work to set up a good HF system. I have a couple 70cm mobiles I'm going to install in the zombie ford and my wife's jeep and set up a home station. I also would like to build an emergency box with a couple radios and battery power in case I have to abandon my house in an emergency. I WILL have to bug out if anything happens so mobile is the key for me anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
84
« on: March 04, 2016, 03:31:19 PM »
Forget the rail & mo PT.......
And that is probably the best answer I will get. I go shooting as often as I can but limited income right now for ammo and I can't shoot up my entire stash. And I really can't afford any classes right now. I've been itching terribly to go to a carbine class but winter in PA is limited on choices and money is a factor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
85
« on: March 04, 2016, 03:16:02 PM »
 Threw the rail back on the Colt Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
86
« on: March 04, 2016, 03:08:23 PM »
I know this is old but figured I would chime in.
BDS from what I've seen is middle of the road stuff. Good for gaining lift, but nothing groundbreaking. I had a BDS leveling kit on my 2007.
Lifting and maintaining capacities seems hit or miss. As long as it's just blocks in the rear you shouldn't lose much except for the higher CG and all that comes with that when towing. 6" lift will severely impact goose neck or fifth wheel towing cause you bring contact with the bed and trailer into play. That's the only reason my daily driver only has a leveling kit in the front. If I lifted the rear id never get under my fifth wheel.
Most trucks already have blocks in the rear at factory height so you won't lose much if you go with a simple kit and re use your factory springs.
Just pick a kit in your price range with rear blocks and you're done. 6" lift will probably have new control arms and new coils or possibly just spacers. I have a 4" kit I bought but like I said I couldn't get under my trailer if I installed it. It was just blocks, spacers, control arms, and hardware cost around $450 I think.
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87
« on: March 04, 2016, 02:37:11 PM »
So my main #1 AR is this Colt 6720R. The only thing I don't like about it is the rail is heavy and defeats the purpose of the weight savings on the rest of the gun. It comes factory with a pencil barrel and I've been trying to keep the weight down with the Aimpoint T1. The tan rifle in this pic is an 80% lower I built up from scratch with this sweet Odin works key mod rail. Which no kidding is close to a half pound lighter  I've been thinking about swapping rails but I will have to dismantle the Colt, pull the gas block and tube, flash hider off, barrel nut, etc to do it. I don't want to mess up the reliability of the gun and I've never taken off a pinned gas block before. Any advice. Can you re use the pins when you take them out of the block? Should I just leave it alone? When I built the tan gun I had it all cerakoted the flat dark earth color and I realize the colors will not match but I usually get bored and end up painting my guns anyway. But the tan rifle will never look the same if I take the rail off. And it looks good right now lol.  Laid off right now so buying a new rail is not in the cards at the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
88
« on: March 04, 2016, 02:00:08 PM »
I guess I always thought the purpose of the QD would be to get it off quickly in the event you broke your optic and were in a bad situation and needed to keep shooting. In that scenario I could care less about return to zero. I don't see myself spending more than I did for the gun to put an optic on it and then taking it off to shoot with the irons, unless Someone was shooting back at me and the glass was shattered or something. But I have no formal training so maybe I'm missing something?
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89
« on: March 04, 2016, 01:54:25 PM »
One of the greatest, often overlooked attributes to a full sized WML (not this one) is its ability to be used as a stand off device in ECQB. Mounted to the frame, the operator can press the weapon in to a bad guy and release fury and freedom vigorously until the threat has ceased. In like circumstances without a standoff device it's often necessary to hold the weapon in battery either via support hand or indexing the back of the slide against your body. In this event you have effectively induced a malfunction. So that single shot had better count for something!
All of this being said. Hopefully you wouldn't have introduced your firearm in to the ECQB environment. The above scenario would have prevented itself had you already produced the weapon and then were ambushed or attacked by a secondary aggressor whom you had not previously identified.
We always fight the fight we are in. I would more often recommend in most scenarios introduction of an edged weapon at at ECQB. Knives only have one handle.
In any fight a weapon should not be introduced until you are at the crossroads of tactical advantage and immediate-imminent threat. I present a lot of videos in training where officer/citizens are killed or seriously injured in their attempt to present a weapon before they have controlled the immediate and imminent threat.
I just DOT'd my own thread...
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I've got a TLR2 on my XDm that lives by my bed. I've been looking at getting a smaller light that doesn't protrude so much but this never crossed my mind. Thanks for the info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
90
« on: March 04, 2016, 10:37:27 AM »
I've seen videos of those type of guns running. Pretty cool to see the BCG cycle through the slots. Would be terrible to keep clean though.
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91
« on: March 03, 2016, 11:27:32 AM »
I have 2 oem turbos, neither with a WG. I thought about just doing the wheels but a S300w sounds better. Say keep it around 35psi and I will be good.
Extra motors laying around, must be nice.
No kidding on the spare engines. I thought about building up the 35 but when u add up a new exhaust housing, upgraded wheel, and the machining to upgrade said wheel you're in it ~$600 already for gains that would still leave you needing more air when you upgrade injectors. Your idea of holding back the s300 so it isn't working hard is by far the better plan, power wise and money wise. That leaves you a ton of headroom for bigger injectors, delivery valves etc in the future. And you won't run out of air with the bigger turbo. An S300 will get you into crazy power numbers. 500/1200 isn't out of the question on the high end with that turbo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
92
« on: March 03, 2016, 10:07:25 AM »
I thought going over 30 and you start looking at studs?
New 35s and 300s all start about $600 from what I am seeing. Finding used 35s is easy.
Yes a used 35 is a dime a dozen, lots of people changing them out for bigger turbos. They are also popular with the Mitsubishi 4G63 crowd for a larger replacement turbo for their cars. Ive read about people running 60# on factory head bolts, Granted life span is severely shortened, and they don't live hundreds of thousands of miles at that level, but it just shows what is possible. I run right around 45psi on "Patch" in sustained foot to the firewall running it will tag 48psi and puff a little antifreeze on the windshield. I usually find this a good time to lift off the throttle a bit and turn on the wipers.
So... given that engine has never had a head gasket and is North of 400k miles...I'd say head studs are not required unless you intend to run above 40psi for extended duration's. Those stretchy OEM cummins head bolts keep it sealed fine under 45psi in my trucks anyway. How many of those miles did you run 40+psi? Just curious of longevity. Do you have an S300?
93
« on: March 02, 2016, 07:06:57 PM »
Man I love those rims.
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« on: March 02, 2016, 06:26:14 PM »
I was close to a HX35 but the 300 sounds better. Sounds like you have not touched the injectors at all.
I just wish someone made a better set of head bolts vs studs.
HX35 turbo is good for up to 35ish psi then it starts to blow hot air. S300 should get you closer to 50#. 45-50 anyway. At that level from what I've read studs might be good insurance. With a properly torqued head and good gasket you should be able to run up to 40# with stock bolts. Anything over that and studs might be a good idea. It's just such a process to stud the engine. Having to machine parts for them to fit etc. I was looking at studding but I'm just not gonna turn it up that much right now so I did the mighty diesel head bolts. And the only reason I did those was because they are the same price as factory cummins bolts and they are a touch stronger. If I get a garage put up this year I may pull the engine next winter and rebuild it and I will probably stud it then. But I'll also do fire rings and such. My injectors are stock. I had them pop tested and flowed before I put them back in so I know they're good to go. They are the largest dodge put into an auto 12 valve and should be good to go for awhile. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
95
« on: March 02, 2016, 01:47:31 PM »
100 hp would be good and Norm likes the S300 turbo better so it is all open.
Yep, tan is cool, different.
S300 is a good turbo. Factory equipment on some Caterpillar engines so you could possibly find a wrecked truck and get a cheap upgrade if you have the patience. Or buy a new one. Or I believe a super B is an s300 that's been tuned up. If I decide to get stupid with my truck I'm going to do an HT3B/HX35 twin setup. Towing twins is what it's sometimes referred to. Reliable and late model 6.7 type linear power. In all honesty though I don't see myself needing that anytime soon. I'm looking forward to taking the truck as it sits out on the pipeline ROW and see how it does. It has plenty of power now to run down the highway and as long as it can climb adequately that's all I need. The next purchase for the truck will probably be some sort of locker for the rear end. Having to be pulled out of 6" of snow when my 4x4 was out is unacceptable for a truck with this intended purpose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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« on: March 02, 2016, 01:30:39 PM »
Tan it is then.
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« on: March 02, 2016, 09:28:43 AM »
Well I had a couple beautiful days so I started something that absolutely should have been put off till a later date lol. Paint  I started out just painting my mirrors black but I had some leftover spray paint from painting a rifle so I decided to see how it would look. Then went to lowes and picked up several more cans and figured what the heck I'll see what it looks like. I've got some tiger striping from the spray paint but I was never going after the show truck look. It turned out decent I think. I just think the louvers painted black stands out to much on the tan. I thought about painting od green but nothing else is green. Not sure what I'm going to do about that.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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« on: February 29, 2016, 05:57:17 PM »
I have used the cheapie midland radios for vehicle to vehicle communications on road trips. I've never got more than a mile or two out of them on the interstate. If you can still see the other vehicle you can talk. When it gets out of sight it gets sketchy. For wandering around a property or neighborhood though they can't be beat. Especially with some of the motion detectors and things you can do with a MURS system.
My Baofeng UV5Rs can go a tiny bit further than that but handhelds are going to be limited to a mile or two unless one of you is standing on a big hill. The bubble packs advertise up to 14 miles or whatever but real world is far less than that. As Don said though if you can up the power of them you can increase that. Most handhelds are 5watts or less.
If you are serious about radio communications , especially longer distance comms then ham is the only way to go. On the pipeline we use 70cm UHF And sometimes 2m VHF mobiles. With a good mobile you can go 10-30miles depending on conditions. Mobiles range from 15-30 watts or more. If you know repeaters in the area the range can go up significantly. I've had UHF radios in MT going well over 300 miles. Granted that was with a 100' base tower and several repeaters but still shows the capability. When you get into HF radios you can talk around the world depending on conditions.
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« on: February 29, 2016, 04:37:54 PM »
Congrades on getting married, it will never be the same again,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Mine used to like toys, now she doesn't understand at all.
What is you setup? I am stating to get a few pieces based off Norms recommendations but like to hear others.
What I've done so far is pull the fuel plate out and turn the smoke screw (pre boost fueling screw) in 3/4 of a turn. I also have a boost elbow and it's pretty close to being all the way in, fully in would essentially close the wastegate and would allow a few more pounds of boost but from what I've read that's not the best idea. As is pulling the fuel plate out can have some negative side effects as well. There is a pin inside the pump that can break off because of it. It's a rare occurrence from what I've read but can happen and it's a $1200 bill when it breaks. I also slid the AFC fully forward. I am planning on grinding my fuel plate to a 100 profile and reinstalling it. I'm also going to mess with the smoke screw to see if I can get the turbo lit a little sooner, it has a touch of lag. I will also play around with the star wheel to see what role that plays in this dance. I haven't been able to lock down an exact plan from researching online so I'm just going to learn as I go. I was hoping to find a recipe such as turn smoke screw X amount of turns and spin star wheel Y amount of turns etc but it's just not that simple I'm finding. I will tell you the few things I've done is amazing. Truck pulls so much harder. Pulling the fuel plate and sliding the AFC is good for 100hp from what I've read and I would believe it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
100
« on: February 29, 2016, 04:23:47 PM »
How's the homemade gauge pod working out?
I screwed it up. When I glued the pvc onto the fiberglass it ended up all crooked. I need some nail polish remover to remove them from the base and start over. That's one of my goals for the next few days, get the gauges wired up neatly and permanently installed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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