He is fine with the cpvc. It just looked like galvanized pipe on my phone. We do repair work where a home has dissimilar metals and they corrode. A popular place for someone to add/hide galvanized pipe is the tub spout where they install a pipe nipple. I think it is called electrolysis or galvanic corrosion. I am sure there are some metals experts here that could explain it. I have done some research, but not enough, and always use similar metals and isolators when needed. I use isolators on water heaters and their thermal expansion tanks for example. As long as the connection of two dissimilar metals is there the pipe can rot anywhere or everywhere that is not isolated. Pin holes form and the copper becomes brittle and crumbles. Wherever i use screws to attach two hole copper straps to copper pipe i use an isolator between the strap and pipe. From what i read this corrosion is worsened once water is introduced to the connection.
Currently i use the Viega system. Pex pipe isolates the connection so the failure is more local instead of anywhere if the proper isolators are not used. I may switch to hot link as it takes the same tools. And is made in the US. Viega is Italy and the US.
Cpvc has none of these issues.

So what do you guys want me to do with this thread? I am not certain what to do. I have builds and such i can post. But, should those go in a different build thread? A build thread for each one? Or should i start posting stuff we are doing in the hopes it promotes conversation?
How would it be best to proceed? What is the vision for this section? What would be most helpful to the membership?

I know Concan and Leaky pretty well. We go to Garner State Park many times each year. I would like to have some land there but the job prospects are thin.
There are some well known roads to ride a motorcycle on near there. I think they are known as the twisted sisters and the landscape is beautiful.

I do like Texas. Many of our customers are retired folks from Houston. Make money in Houston then get out as fast as they could. We have family in Conroe and Magnolia.
I have never hunted hogs. They are all over though. One night i was coming home and i thought there was a cow in the road. They roam the roads here near the house. Then all of a sudden it took OFF. A rocket. It was the largest hog i have ever seen near the place. A cow looking projectile with short legs. The kids are still convinced they can hand catch a piglet and make it a pet. We will see. They do not believe me when i say they are mini rockets.
The last twenty minutes to my house is at 20 miles per hour with both lanes of travel only slightly wider than my dually. We actually drive through roads that weave through ranches with cows on the county roads. It is a pretty hidden spot out of the way. I am 45 minutes from the outer edge of Austin. An hour from San Antonio. And 50 minutes from San Marcos. I wish i could be more remote but i need to be near where i work. When i quit working i want to move near Junction or Kerrville. Possibly out past Fredericksburg toward enchanted rock state park. Somewhere where people will not be able to walk to without water and good health.

I was asked to write an introduction so here it goes. I am Jared Herzog. I have followed you guys for a while and came over from Duramax Forum when Don made the move. I am in Dripping Springs, Texas. It is here where we are building our current home. We are living on site while we do the entire thing on our own so i can teach my oldest daughter how everything goes together.
I am a builder who learned all i could from my father and grandfather. My grandfather built custom homes his whole life and worked into his 80’s. From there i hired different trades on our projects and worked with them to learn some more. I have my own small construction company at this time. My Uncle is also a builder so we work on projects together when we have the opportunity. This is adventurous since the two of us are of the same mindset. He teaches prepping/survival in our area and got me involved with his different groups. From there we have done rain water collection, underground bunkers, hidden rooms, strong doors and such in addition to standard construction projects.
I would not ever consider myself an expert at anything because there is always more to learn. I am sort of well rounded in regards to construction so hope to be able to help with questions on building and home maintenance.

Here are two images of a window i did recently. The tape on the bottom runs the length but does not show the slit in the center for any moisture to drain out. You can see how i did the moist stop, tyvek, and tape.

Wow i have never seen them in action. Looks like they will work great. Anything to keep that dust down is a huge plus. Hitachi makes great guns and compressors. I have had great luck with them.

I am no expert. Just someone sharing information. I would be glad to answer any questions i can. The projects going on here are exciting. I am blessed to be able to do what i love for a career which is home building. I learned most of what i know from my grandfather and father and grew up on job sites. My grandfather retired about twenty years ago which set the wheels in motion to put me where i am today.
I am currently building my home with my oldest daughter. She just turned 18. She is interested in construction so we will do a complete home together so she can see the process and we can take it slow. The neighbors were puzzled to see a girl hanging beams when we were framing. Then they were wondering how a 115 pound girl could deck a roof with 5/8” plywood. I did have a crew pour the concrete and another drill the well. Everything else will be just us including the septic tank installation.
Anyway, if anyone needs help here just let me know.

823058 is the Lowes item number to a product similar to the moist stop i use. I got mine at McCoys but can not find it on their site. I would have to actually feel the Lowes product to see how similar it is but it will work for the framing under the windows to flash the sill before windows go in and hardi goes on. It will also work on hardi joints. I have seen everything used from tar paper to synthetic roof felt on to and including metal tin or aluminum flashing. I just like the black roll flashing. I do not use house wrap as a flashing. You could also use many of the sticky window tapes also but they get expensive and are overkill.
I have never used or seen anyone use the sheers. I saw those and thought they were for the metal roof. If you like them let me know and i will give them a shot. I just use a diablo hardi saw blade. I try to never have a cut joint showing. I can get them perfectly square but if you look at the factory joint it has a very slight bevel. I hide all cuts under trim.
On the nails yes you can nail every 16” or 32” revealed. Or any pattern you want.  The hardi holds tight under all the trim and with proper nails hidden under the lap. But, i always reveal nail my joints and any irregularity that needs a nail to suck the siding down. Too many nails showing looks bad. It will sort of dimple the piece and will have a nail to caulk. The goal is a perfectly flat wall without any waves.
I also use interior/exterior liquid nails. It holds tight to hardi and i use it on trim pieces that i would shatter with more than one nail. If it oozes out spread the ooze and paint it or caulk over it and paint.
If you use a saw keep the guard blown off with air. The dust clogs its function and before you know it it no longer covers the blade and the saw takes off when you set it down. The saw is fast and allows me to cut a six piece stack at a time. It is however very dusty so wind to my back and cut. No wind and i am working on another area of the house as the dust is overwhelming at times.

Sorry guys. I can not get my post to work. I tried copy and paste. It is only showing a small fraction. At least on my phone. Can someone let me know if you guys can see it in its entirety?

In some states they require blind nails and a nail over the lap. I will give a run down on what i do and why. Some of my steps are not recommended. But, after many many houses it is what i do. I am in Texas so face nailing is not required in my area. I think some of the gulf coast regions do require the extra nail.
During my framing i use a sharpi to mark each stud and mark hazards on the outside of the slab. I do this before underpinning is installed which will cover my marks. If underpinning is already in i use a small pencil mark. This helps me locate studs accurately and fast to install sheeting. I then use this mark and transfer it to the wall for siding. So every hit is a stud for sure. There is no guessing.
I blind nail every stud. If i have two or three studs together i use two or three nails. I then do one face nail on each side of a joint. When this nail is left out these joints move too much for my liking. I also face nail as needed for rolls and such. Try to nail in the center of the lap. Too low and a nail will show. Too high and it does not hold the siding as well and could blow out the edge. I use moist stop for a joint flashing. You can use almost anything as long as it is water proof. I will post a photo later of my nails and my flashing.
I know hardi no longer recommends caulk but i caulk. My OCD will not allow me to see all those horizontal joints. These joints look terrible after paint unless the owner uses dark paint. Most are going light paint these days. They no longer recommend this as most painters use the cheapest caulk. It gets hard then the hardi expands and contracts and turns the caulk into a small ridge. This happens with the acrylic painters caulk which lacks silicone. I use the highest grade caulk i can. I also caulk twice to take care of shrinkage. I caulk as i go then i caulk a week later or once the siding is done. Carry a damp rag with you to clean up the caulk on butt joints. I try to leave a thin smooth layer over the joint to sort of bridge the gap. I have not had any issues doing this. I have used dap siliconized acrylic 40 year, i have used window and door trim caulk made by PL, and i have used dyna flex. Now here is where i also do what is not recommended. I caulk every horizontal joint and once again i caulk twice. The dyna flex or pl are thicker and harder to use but hold well and remain pliable. This sort of glues down the hardi pieces also. I started doing this after almost every homeowner insisted on it even when i said it is against the hardi installation instructions. But, i have been back to some of these homes twenty years later to repaint them and all is well. Some will say doing this traps moisture. This is true. But, had i used the 4X8 sheets the wall would have been sealed anyway. Any moisture would hit my flashing behind the joint. I leave 1/4” directly below this joint uncaulked. Or i come back and slit the caulk or push a scratch all into the caulk to leave an escape path for water that hits the flashing. With premium paints the walls are also sealed up and theoretically would trap water anyway.
On your starter row do a lathe strip. I just use deck staples to attach a 1”-1 1/2” wide strip of 1/4” luane plywood or i rip a 1/4” piece of a 2x4. Use a material slightly thinner than the siding because this gets attached to the framing. Then your starter row gets dropped down an inch to an inch and a half to create a drip lip. This distance i drop does vary based on how the home is framed. I mark all my first rows and chalk them out.   
I use hardi nails for the siding that are 1 7/8” so as not to penetrate too far into a wall stud where wiring or plumbing is.
On the trim i use hardi trim. I also install it as if it was wood. This is also against the rules. My issue is too many windows extend too far out beyond the wall surface so you have to double up hardi and screw it in. Or use cedar which will eventually rot. What i do is have the hardi siding cover the window flange. I bring it up to within 1/8” or 1/4” of the window , covering the flange, then put the 1x4 hardi trim on top. I do this because i do not want a horizontal joint running the length of the window. This also holds the hardi down. With most windows this puts the face of the trim even with the window or 1/8” beyond. I then caulk the junction of the trim and siding and the trim and window. I exclusively use PL window and door caulk to seal the top of a window. I have also used NP1 which can be on a roof in the sun for something like fifty years. It takes paint well. Any caulk that is used that does not take paint such as pure silicone can be allowed to dry. Then go over it with the dap siliconized acrylic and you get a paintable surface.  I caulk these areas between the window trim and siding twice to level out shrinkage. I only nail the trim in through the void of the hardi siding. If you try to nail through the 1x hardi trim and two layers of siding the nails bend over. I have experimented with galvanized non ringshank nails here with a framing gun but the framer is too tough and the nails too fat. So i use the galvanized non ringshank 2 1/4” nails here made for the hardi gun. The caulk i use also glues everything together. I carry a nail set while doing trim so i can get nails at least flush. Sub flush is ok. Just no reason to sink them too deep as they will not hold as well.
Make sure you get a good saw blade made for hardi. They run about $40 but they last me a dozen homes or more. I lose more to theft. They make some that are under $10 but they do not last. A good blade will keep chipping at a minimum. Also, cut with the table down wind. It will blow the dust away. Otherwise it causes silicosis. Bad stuff.

I run a duofast siding gun. My business partner had a hitachi of a couple years old. It might be worthwhile to see if your gun will run standard coils. The hitachi is the only gun that coils the nails backwards. This is an issue if you run anything but their coils. It just makes it a bit more costly and narrows what nails can he used.
But, if it only for one project it will be ok. And, maybe they fixed the coil issue. The house is looking great.

Interesting find in the attic. A human head. I recommend leaving it alone and just box it in. Do not get a permit for that work or the G men may shut you down until they can get an ecological impact study done.

My grandfather would not lift a wall until the windows, sheeting, tar paper, and siding were in/on it and either their full length or 16' minimum. I have never done it that way. Too heavy. He swore by it though. With my daughter we lift up to 16' walls by hand. But, i do not do window sills, tails, or headers in a wall before we lift it. For me i can get things perfectly square with less large lumber to shove over. I have also found i like the large cargo straps. I use chokers on each end to secure the strap. Walls can be moved in 1/8" increments easily to get and hold square.  Are you doing a second top plate to weave your plates and corners together?

I have heard can lights called pod lights. If we are thinking about the same thing i use Halo brand model H7ICAT. I have installed several hundred and have never had a failure of one. They are cost effective and very easy and fast to install and adjust.
I have switched to led everything on homes we build. At least as long as the bulb type is available. Perfectly flush bulb and ring is a bit harder to find.
On my home i am wrapping up electrical rough in. I have three cans on the front porch and three cans on the rear porch which i wanted sealed to keep wasps from building nests in areas i can not access to spray. These light and ring kits are led and sealed. They are close to flush compared to what i usually see and install. They were from Lowes and are utilitech brand so the jury is still out on their reliability.
These particular cans were of the remodel type which mount to a ceiling with 5/8" sheetrock. My problem is my ceiling on the porch was a bit thicker. To reinforce the ceiling and prevent an intruder from getting into my attic by knocking a hole in the soffit i did an underlayment of 7/16 osb. The remodel can clips worked with a little persuasion.

Those are good connectors. All the Halo lights we install now come fitted with them. If you have to remove a wire just twist and walk it out.

I will keep an eye on your thread. I know how to cut those rafters in and might be able to help if i can relay the information correctly. I can show you how to lay it out with a framing square or use my construction master from calculated industries. I feel like the calculator is cheating but it sure is fast. They are definitely worth their cost when used often.
I am currently framing a 1200 ft garage for a customer and doing my own home in its entirety as money allows to teach my 17 year old daughter the business. Framing is just one aspect of what we do. Currently i would take her over most of the guys that are willing to work. When i got my lumber package delivered all at once the kids were looking at the bundles. I told them that is there home and we just need to put it together. That is eating an elephant one bite at a time.

One more thing worth mentioning. Make sure each piece of sheeting you use touches at least three floor joists. It will dip over time if you go from joist to joist. For example. With 16" OC your smallest piece should be a minimum of 32" wide. 24" OC and your minimum is 48". Full sheets and half sheets are best for strength and material usage. If you have a situation where you have to go joist to joist you can block under it to add strength. This blocking works but is not ideal if it can be avoided. Also if you end up short on the ends due to width you can pull the sheet away from the edge about half the width of the glue lambs. The wall can then be pushed out to the edge and sandwich the floor between the wall and glue lamb. Fill this void with material so the wall has a solid base. Check the spec on your sheeting. Some require a gap to allow for expansion and contraction. I use a nail to gap when needed.

We cut a strip that has the other matched tongue or groove. Then hammer away on that piece. Do not try to hammer on the tongue or groove on the piece you are installing. By cutting a strip you have a sacrificial piece that mates up to your sheet. With careful planning you can get this strip from some fall off. We also use liquid nails or sub floor adhesive and many screws. What plywood subfloor material are you using? We use advantech and it has proven to hold up well if it gets wet. It is more like water proof osb though. Plywood is strong but buckles when wet and will suffer delimitation. The floor is small so that helps but make sure your first row is perfectly straight otherwise when you stagger joints you will start to stair step. You could mark off 4' rows and start at the row closest to the center and work out in both directions. That way you will have less stepping because you traveled half the distance. Also, inspect each tongue or groove for debris before locking it in. The shape can be cleaned out with a razor knife. Your best bet is to get the roof on once you lay the floor sheeting.