I'm really knocking it out lately

I'll post pics later, but have made lots of progress, killed a big old pile of trees, and even racked up some new carniage. And that would be on the new bush hog...

Actual date of destruction was 1 sep...

...For whoever picked that day...

Probably everyone on here. ;)

Hey!!

So, he used snake shot to kill something that eats snakes.  :o

I didn't realize there where that many! and yet you can't find ANY useful specs on them....

So, made a new retainer today, one that had less of an offset...like .025". Also did some mag release work (that was the other issue, the bolt not staying back), and ran out to my "private" shooting area after work. She ran....most of the time....40 rounds total.  I think (hope) a quality buffer will finish it off.

This is the cul-de-sac for shorter shooting, up to 200 yards.

Thanks guys,  guess I'm calling those guys today, maybe after I practice some yoga.
Charles,  is your buffer getting chewed up a little in that pic...kinda hard to tell from this angle.

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Hey Shawn, can you tell me if your bcg is flush with the back of the upper. Mine is actually recessed. I checked a couple of my ar 15s and they are about perfectly flush. Hmm...might not be the lower after all.

Amen.

Agree^^^ but the fact that it was taking out threads from going too far rearwards also tells me there is/was an issue with the extension. It's also hard to find a set of measurements for these, because, like JR said, they're not all the same.

You know, I wonder if the listing for these is wrong. My parts house shows this one for WT only, but if you go to Dorman's site, it shows Denali, GMC SLE (same as LTZ) and a few others...just about all GM trucks in that year.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=77006&SEName=931-349

Gotcha. I did take care of a significant issue....that buffer should never touch the pin whether overgassed or not... just don't know if it was the only/right issue. I think I need to shoot it again before asking for help.

Thought you said LBZ?

...and it didn't want to run......missing on a few cylinders. It would hit on the first round, then lightly punch the next primer. I tore it down and found the buffer was smacking the buffer retainer. It's not supposed to even touch the retainer unless the upper is removed, because it's only function is to hold the spring/buffer in place during teardown. I believe the lower was not milled correctly, or the bcg is not far enough back, but not sure. I've read where it can cause bolt bounce if the buffer doesn't keep pressure on the bolt at the end of travel, which will cause a light pin strike.
I decided to just mill an offset buffer retainer pin from a grade5 1/4" bolt. The hardest part was drilling  out the inside to except a spring.

...buffer slightly dinged after only 20 rounds:



..bent buffer retainer:




...offset retainer:

Sounds like actuators to me. So, an '06?

Dorman (imported)
......Part# 746-017=left front.
and Part# 746-011=right front. To my knowledge, it doesn't matter whether it has keyless or not.

I've seen guys go through floor #2 to heat that area as well (I watch a bunch of alaska shows :)  ). Just put a steel rail around it so sleeping bags don't light up.

:(

Here's the obnoxious brake;



...and more stuff like a new soft case that holds (in theory) 3 long guns...up to 42":



...and finally, a box of mags, both steel and plastic, to see which ones work best:

I needed to tighten up the upper-to-lower slop so I installed one of these wedges under the rear take down pin:



Then came a cheapo qd scope mount:



...to go with a mid range scope. I didn't want to go balls out on a scope until I see what this gun is capable of as far as distance/accuracy. If it works out, and allows me to shoot 6-800yrds, I might throw my Trijicon on it from the 300 weatherby, and get a Nightforce for it since the Trigi is about maxxed out at 1000 yrds, at 20x power. The 300 can go much further, I think.





...getting it level:

Some more goodies came in yesterday, like this nice padded sling from Troy:

Next up the buffer tube/stock with ambi sling mount...also painted to match in FDE:



Then I changed out the charging handle catch to an extended version:

Here's where I "cheated" a little. Instead of building an upper (I have zero experience with this) I purchased one complete. This one came from a local shop, Veriforce Tactical, and it consists of a dpms upper, a Ballistic Advantage barrel in 1:10 twist, melonite coated, with something they call a "Tank Brake" which looks super loud, and of course a nitride BCG. They also test fire when done.



I also purchased the skeleton stock (Guntec), small parts kit (guntec), and vise block from them. Note: the trigger is absolutely horrible .



here's the lower assembled:

When it comes to lowers, billet is the best, starting out as a solid chunk of aluminum. When they say forged, it's not what you think...that's why they're cheaper.


...forgot to add the "winkwink"

I cleaned it up on the mill, but I was trying not to destroy the templates (MADE for a router) on the very first one. I have since done most of the work on a couple 556s on the mill. I feel more experienced now. lol

I won't bore you with all of the details, but here's the basics:

First set the drill bit to the proper length and tighten collet, and make sure it doesn't come loose!



I didn't have to drill out the rear pocket, so those 2 holes in the template were taped over.

...All 7 holes drilled in the trigger pocket:

I started off by purchasing a few 80% lowers, before they become non-existent, a couple being 308, and a few AR 15s versions. They were supposed to sit in the safe collecting dust, but then I realized that I needed a 308 to go with the 556s.
So, here's a billet 308 (top) and a forged 5.56, both in 7075 aluminum.

Let her rip....here of course...and be sure to use plenty of ether for our entertainment!! (jk)