2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins

[rcampbell]

Well, I finally found a truck that will serve my purposes as rugged enough for farm duty, and hauling trailers, wood etc. Needs some work on the transmission shifter, as it seems like it jumped out of the notch or something. I do like the fact that it's a manual transmission, and also has manual shift lever for 4x4 which I prefer for this type of truck. Has been undercoated it's whole life, and was a 1-owner truck. Has high miles, 325K, but runs well, no smoke, no blow-by etc. It runs well, has some new front end parts and new clutch, good tires on it etc. I also had recently bought a 98 dodge 2500 2wd cummins which will come in handy since I now have a spare engine, a whole truck worth of interior parts, good set of spare wheels etc.

Not sure what to call it, perhaps RoundD, BlueD, CurvedD hahaha. I'll get some pics up soon, picking it up tomorrow or thurs I'd say.

[BobbyB]

I like where this is going.

[TexasRedNeck]

oil change

[Flyin6]

Definitely vote for a fluid change and "Deep Cleaning"

[cudakidd53]

LongD, RamD, DQ.....did someone say Ice Cream? :o

[rcampbell]

Hahaha stay focused cuda!

LongD, RamD, DQ.....did someone say Ice Cream? :o

Haha stay focused cuda!

[Flyin6]

Fluid change...fluid change...fluid change...Flui...

[rcampbell]

Here's a quick picture. Got er for 3900!

[Atkinsmatt]

Oil Change and some new floor mats.

[BobbyB]

Here's a quick picture. Got er for 3900!

Truck like that up here would have an asking price around $8-10,000 or more.

[JR]

You stole it. That is what they want motors for now around here!

[rcampbell]

I also got a parts truck which is a 1998.5 2wd dodge. It's got a 24v cummins as well, but is automatic. I will just keep the parts that I can use and sell the rest for a few bucks I guess. Only paid 1300 for that, which it was well worth I'd say.

I think for this truck I will keep it mostly as-is for a couple years, clean it up and fix what needs fixing, and just use it for hauling work for now, and then after that I would love to do a full restore on it.

[Flyin6]

Good plan!

Gotta be really careful with those fluid changes!

[moto123]

Truck like that up here would have an asking price around $8-10,000 or more.

I concur.  I have been keeping my eyes on craigslist for a while and there hasn't been anything for a decent price recently.

[BobbyB]

I concur.  I have been keeping my eyes on craigslist for a while and there hasn't been anything for a decent price recently.

There was a 2500 of the 04-06 vintage on CL up here, manual, quad cab, short box 33x,xxx miles... for $13,000.

[Sammconn]

I think both of them were steals of a deal!
Complete fluid change.  :)

[KensAuto]

You stole it. That is what they want motors for now around here!

I just bought that 2000 24v w/130k miles for 3k delivered...I would say he got a great deal!

[Nate]

I concur.  I have been keeping my eyes on craigslist for a while and there hasn't been anything for a decent price recently.

There was a 2500 of the 04-06 vintage on CL up here, manual, quad cab, short box 33x,xxx miles... for $13,000.

bobby, that manual was actually a rare combo.

[BobbyB]

I concur.  I have been keeping my eyes on craigslist for a while and there hasn't been anything for a decent price recently.

There was a 2500 of the 04-06 vintage on CL up here, manual, quad cab, short box 33x,xxx miles... for $13,000.

bobby, that manual was actually a rare combo.

Well that might explain that one.

[rcampbell]

Well, after I got the truck home, I figured out why the shifter was so floppy. The shift tower bolts had come undone. It was then I noticed that there were only 2 out of the 4 bolts, and 1 out of the 4 busings. So with those put back in, I was at least able to shift it into gear, but was still quite loose. I found the bolts, bushings etc could be ordered online, but being the impatient fella that I can be, I figured I'd make my own. Took some measurements off the one bushing I had, and turned 3 more on my brothers lathe.

So here they are, I'll try them tomorrow, and hope that after a fluid change, that's all my transmission needs, since it's had a new clutch put in it recently.

Original on the left, ones I made on the right. Also, luckily enough, the bolts in the transmission are just regular 1/4-20 bolts so I figure I can just replace the two missing ones with some 1.5" long grade 5 bolts and a washer for each that I have on hand.

[rcampbell]

Well I got a little more done to the cummins today. I got new oil and filter last night, so got the oil changed. Just for fun, this is the engine bay before I took off the air intake hose to get at the oil filter.



I then used the bushings I made, and the new isolation spacer I got from Quad4x4 (shipped to PE, Canada in 3 days from the time I ordered it!!) and got the shift tower bolted up as it should be. I must say, 4 bolts and 4 bushings works a heck of a lot better than 2 bolts and 1 bushing! haha


Also, here's the wheels that are on my parts truck. The center cap says Xtreme II on it, and they are steel 16 inch wheels. I'm guessing maybe they are steel procomps? Anyone know? I may get them blasted and repaint them and have a nice spare set of wheels. The ones on the truck now are the stock 16" dodge wheels, but they are in good shape, and I don't mind the look of them that much.

[rcampbell]

Also, as I knew when I bought the truck, the there's a bit of a wander in the front end, as these trucks are infamous for. I laid under the front end and had a look around while my friend moved the steering wheel a little. I notice on the inside of the drivers side frame rail, where the steering box bolts goes through, that there's about a 1" crack starting from that bolt hole, and you can see the metal on either side of the crack move some. I'm assuming at least part of the wander is because of that.

So my question is what's the best way to fix it? Any 2nd gen Dodge gurus here? Assuming I weld that small crack, should I look into a brace of some kind? There were a bunch of front end parts replaced on it before I got it, so there shouldn't be too much left to fix after the crack is taken care of.

[Nate]

I would say drill a hole at each end of the crack and then use the frame kit that I think don used on his to strengthen that area.

[Flyin6]

I would say drill a hole at each end of the crack and then use the frame kit that I think don used on his to strengthen that area.

Second gen has a different setup Nate

You could probably get away with cutting the crack out, then welding it back, then box up that part of the frame and run some steel bushings through the  frame and use longer bolts. Maybe weld some stiffener inside the frame as well.

[husker77c]

There is a steering brace you can get for those trucks. 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=231118621589

Fix the crack and install that and you should be good to go


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rcampbell]

I would say drill a hole at each end of the crack and then use the frame kit that I think don used on his to strengthen that area.

Second gen has a different setup Nate

You could probably get away with cutting the crack out, then welding it back, then box up that part of the frame and run some steel bushings through the  frame and use longer bolts. Maybe weld some stiffener inside the frame as well.

These frames are already boxed at the front. I'll have to do as husker mentions and put in a brace. Should help to keep the steering box still and the frame rails more rigid by the look of it!

[rcampbell]

I was grabbing some items off my parts truck the other day and noticed it has an aftermarket exhaust. It's a 4" stainless exhaust. I would love to use it on my new truck, but the parts truck is a quad cab short box, and the new one is a quad cab long box. Would I still be able to use it if I just added 1.5 feet of tube to make is long, or would some of the bends etc be different?

[JR]

From what I have seen they just include a spacer for longbeds vs SB. Since you have both trucks just crawl under and see it that works? Summit sell tube in lengths for that with nice band clamps.

That frame brace is nice, but you need to fix the crack. Pull the bolt, grid the crack and weld it up.

[rcampbell]

From what I have seen they just include a spacer for longbeds vs SB. Since you have both trucks just crawl under and see it that works? Summit sell tube in lengths for that with nice band clamps.

That frame brace is nice, but you need to fix the crack. Pull the bolt, grid the crack and weld it up.

Sounds good, that's sort of what I was thinking might be possible. I'll pull the old one off the parts truck and verify.

Yes, I planned on welding it up to be more of a permanent fix, and was hoping the brace would provide added rigidity, and be a preventative measure against it happening again.

[rpar86]

Nice job on the bushings! The new ones look identical to the old! Not many people left that take the time to manufacture what they need vs buying new.

[JR]

The band clamps are very strong, allow for removal or changes and never rust. Check em out before you weld.

[rcampbell]

The band clamps are very strong, allow for removal or changes and never rust. Check em out before you weld.

Yeah for sure. In my previous post, I meant I was planning to weld the crack by the steering box. My fault, not a very clear post.

[rcampbell]

Went to pull the stainless exhaust off my parts truck today. First I torched the two bolts that hold it on to the back of the turbo, since they were quite rusty and hard to get at. Then I got all the rubber hangers off, didn't take long. Lastly I thought (or at least hoped) that since the whole exhaust was in several sections held together with u-bolts, that it would come off easy. But let me tell you, there's no need for clamps at this point! Those sections are stuck together good! Even the skid steer couldn't pull them apart.

I did find it odd though that the female half of each joint didn't have a slot in it. Would cutting a slot with the cutting wheel and grinder help to get them apart? The bed is off the truck, so I can get pretty easy access to the back half.

[Flyin6]

I'll bet someone used exhaust clamps, the "U" bolt type, and I correct?

If so, you're done. Those clamps deform both pipes together making it virtually impossible to get them apart.

Cutting a slot in two places or more on the outer pipe might loosen the parts up, but they will be all boogered up when they finally do separate

Always use the band style clamps. From Summit $10 to $15 ea and they will hold everything tight, and when loosened up, the parts will slide apart, even years from now. Sometimes I remove parts of my exhaust from either truck to get to stuff better. Just a quick loosening and the pipes fall apart.

[rcampbell]

Yes sir, you hit the nail on the head with your diagnosis of the problem. I hope I can salvage most of it since it's still a real good and solid 4" exhaust.

[KensAuto]

You'll definitely have to slot the heck out of those connections, and even then you'll be cursing at how loose they are, and still won't come apart!!

[rcampbell]

Well look what came in the mail! Was going to install this today, then drive to the shop and weld the hairline crack that starts at the steering box mounting bolt.




There's actually two hairline cracks. One starts at the mounting bolt and goes down, and ends at the bottom of the frame rail. I dropped a hole at the end of that one. The other crack also starts at the same mounting bolt and goes up, about an inch and a half as far as I can tell. Problem is, I can't get the drill in there because the pitman arm and drag link are in the way. Also, I think to weld the top one properly, I would need to unbolt the steering box itself to get better access. Does anyone know if I can just unbolt the steering box and move it over out of the way a little without taking the lines off etc?

I think I'll put the brace in now since I'll have to move the truck to get it to where it's going to be welded, hopefully the brace will at least keep the crack from getting worse. I'm thinking that's where a good bit of my wander is coming from, since even when sitting parked and turned off, if someone moves the steering wheel from side to side, you can see the top crack open a little.

Also, was curious about a couple things. I ought to get a service manual I guess!!

Does anyone know what this little box is under the hood? The wires were unplugged since I bought it, not sure what its for.



Also, the PO put a kill switch on the drivers seat mount. I don't want it there, and the wiring was a little bit of a hack job which is another reason I'm getting rid of this. When removing wires and cables etc, I noticed two wires going here, anyone know what these are for?

[stlaser]

Steering box can be unbolted & moved. If you need you can pull pitman arm but those can be a bear to remove.

[TexasRedNeck]

I'm guessing that box is a switch for the under hood light.  Lift hood, light goes on. 

[KensAuto]

The lens looks a bit dirty. Should be a light there somewhere under that grime.

[rcampbell]

Could anyone tell me how to assess the conditions of a cummins engine? I'm going to pull my spare motor out of my parts truck in the next weeks or two, it hasn't run in a year or two, but worked ok when it was running as far as I know. It only has around 137k miles on it. I'm thinking that at least the bottom end would be ok? Is that something I could verify myself, or should I take it to an engine shop to verify? I'd eventually like to build it to about 300hp and swap it into my dodge. (Spare motor is a 98.5 24v cummins, project truck is a 2000). Anything else I should consider?

[rcampbell]

Finally got my steering box stabilizer installed today. Progress isn't being made as fast as I'd like, but hopefully with a new garage in the works, it will start to move faster soon!

[Flyin6]

Observation: I just have to note and appreciate a man who is taking steps to improve his condition. Here is an old truck which is probably being worked on outside in some driveway which is being cared for and made to live on despite life cycle failures.
I salute you and all of those who take matters into their own hands and do something albeit through meager and humble means to improve their lives. That lesson is lost on an ever growing percentage of Americans! No idleness nor laziness here. No sitting on one's duff waiting for a handout. Nope, none of that. Just a mature and resolute attitude to take responsibility for one's own condition and do something about it.
Showcasing this sort of thing about an old beat up truck on our website is an honor

[rcampbell]

Thanks for your kind words Don, it does indeed help the motivation level! I'll be so excited once my garage is done sometime in January. Although, when I put this steering box stabilizer in, I was just happy to have frozen ground to lay on, as opposed to the wet/muddy ground I would have had to lay on the day before!!

[Flyin6]

^^^ That's what I was talking about ^^^^^

[JR]

I would say the bottom end is fine on a 137K motor if it was running fine before.

You know, I keep sheets of cardboard and pieces of carpet for that.

[rcampbell]

I was going to take the truck to my brothers today, and weld up the cracks by the steering box after our family dinner that we had out there. I went to start it up in my yard, and it fired right up, having not run in over a week. Was still a bit of wander, but the I think the brace helped for sure. I noticed the check engine light came on while I was driving there. I also noticed, while driving, the tach dropped right to zero, for about 1 second, then back up to where it was supposed to be. Never thought much of it, but seemed odd.

Anyway, after our dinner, I went to move the truck over to the building where the welder is, and it wouldn't start. Grid heater works, accessories turn on, but starter doesn't even click. I'm hoping it's a fuse, or starter wire, or something like that. Will also have to get the code reader and see what caused the CEL to turn on. As I pointed out to my wife, it's times like these that I'm glad I have a project truck that isn't my daily driver :)

[JR]

Sounds like my little blazer. Got it home, tried to get it to smog and now it won't start.

[rcampbell]

A little off topic, but I recently came across a front Dana 60 from a 1998 Dodge 2500 that a guy has for sale. Still has everything off it, looks like he just cut the control arms to remove it from the truck. He wants $250 for it. I was thinking since I have a spare Dana 70 rear and a spare set of wheels, might be nice to collect some parts in case I ever do a swap in a half ton, or build a rugged jeep or something. Do you guys ever collect parts like that, you know, "just in case" :)

[TexasRedNeck]

I think that is a mating call for Norm....he has a barn full of dodge parts


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk