VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS > Everything Trailer, Camper, or RV related
trailer weight distribution questions
KensAuto:
I agree with Sam. Sounds like too much weight transfer to the front of the truck.
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Bigdave_185:
More details when I finish my half day at work
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Nate:
so if this is a bumper pull trailer and "not a 5th wheel setup" here is my thoughts on why this happened as well as how to correct it.
on all trailers regardless of their size and how many axle's it has, the weight should be distributed 60/40 between the puller vehicles drive axle's and the trailer. now, that 60 number is what should be on the TRAILER and not the tow vehicles drive axle and should be as close to if not directly over the trailer axle's and not past them. the 40 number should be towards the tongue/tow vehicle drive axle's. so in other words use the trailer for what it was designed to do (PULL/CARRY WEIGHT).
in saying that and from your description of symptoms, I would be willing to say that you had too much weight past the trailers axle's as well as pushing too much weight towards the tow vehicle steer axle (effectively leaving your drive axle unloaded).
now here is how I have always been taught and teach people how to use weight distribution bars.
- line your ball up with the hitch so that the hitch can lower directly on to the ball without any sort of wiggling to get it to couple.
-raise the trailer coupler hitch so that there is about an inch (maybe less) gap between the flat top of the ball and the flat portion of the underside of the coupler hitch.
-attach your weight distribution bars to the receiver/tow vehicle hitch
-attach one weight distribution bar to where as you are raising the latch (the part you attach the chain to) into place it is almost lifting the ball into the coupler hitch (about halfway into the coupler)
-repeat the previous step for the other side (the ball should basically be seated into the coupler hitch at this point)
-lower the trailer by raising the landing leg all the way up
-lock the coupler onto the ball and lock in place
now keep in mind that the amount of gap between the top of the ball and the flat underside of the coupler will vary based on the amount of weight that you are trying to distribute across the entire combination vehicle. add a leaf's, airbags and other additional weight improvement equipment will also play a role in this as well.
it will take you a few times pulling whatever it is that you are pulling to get things figured out. you may also want to experiment with different setups and roll across a DOT approved scale and see what kinds of weight you are putting on the different axles such as steer, drive and trailer. you can find scales like that at just about every major truck stop (flying J is a Utah company and I am sure that they are all over your area). it will cost you something like $10 to get your first weight (starting weight) and I think its like $1 or something like that every weigh after that as long as it is in a 24 hour period.
by the way, is this the first thing that you pulled with your new lift kit installed?
Bear9350:
60/40? Maybe I am not understanding properly what you are trying to convey but that seems like an awful lot of weight on the tongue? Most couplers tongue load ratings are 10-15% of the gross trailer weight rating.
Dawg25385:
I've set up an equalizer before. The manual was actually very good at explaining how to get it dialed in IIRC. You take measurements from the ground to the fender well, front and back as you're adjusting.
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