VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS > General Vehicle Related Discussion

AC Compressor Replacement

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Bear9350:
One of my wife's coworkers/ friends has been having issues with her car's AC.  She took it into a shop over the weekend and told her the compressor was shot.  They quoted $1000+ to replace the AC compressor etc..  Most of my wife's coworkers are mid to late 20's with no vehicle maintenance abilities.  I try to help them out and teach them as I can.  A few months ago I showed her how to do an oil change and replace some head lights and tail lights in her car.  This project will also be a bit of a learning experience for myself as well. I have never dealt with AC systems before.

The subject vehicle is a 2010 Honda Civic with I believe a 1.8L engine.  A little research tells me I can get a compressor, dryer and expansion valve for about $200.  It will take a bit of wrenching but I can get to the compressor from underneath without to much work.  Not sure about the location of the dryer.  The expansion valve is tucked up under the dash someplace and most don't replace it due to the difficulty of getting to it.  I see the warranty for the compressor requires both these parts to be changed for the warranty to not be voided.  Is it a big deal if the valve isn't changed?

Having never dealt with AC systems before, can I just crack the lines open or do I need to take it someplace to have the refrigerant evacuated?  I know I can buy the refrigerant at auto parts stores now.  Am I able to recharge the system myself after doing the install or do I need to bring it to a shop to recharge?

stlaser:
When you crack the lines and let out the evil poison into the air make sure you leave your refrigerant smelling smart phone in the house or big brother will show up n u set a half hour to write you a $10k fine for causing climate change......  :tongue:

KensAuto:
It's real common for the clutch coil to fail on those, and can be replaced without replacing the entire clutch.
But,
If the compressor locked up, or made noise, it's similar to an engine that grenades. That debris has to be removed by flushing the parts not being replaced. You can't flush the evaporator without removing the x valve, and it should be replaced regardless. The condenser can't be flushed and should be replaced as well. It also has the drier built into the side of it.

Even if it didn't "blow up", and was diagnosed as leaking, it's been running on the same oil for 9 years. That's reason enough to flush it, especially since it only has a few ounces in the entire system....and the only way to get the proper amount of oil charge. Not enough=destroyed compressor. Too much=loss of cooling.

Not sure how you would drain the freon without a machine. :Rolls eyes

You'll still need a vacuum pump to charge it.

The smaller the system the more important it is to do it properly.

TexasRedNeck:
HF sells a decent vacuum pump for cheap.

rpar86:
I replaced everything but the lines on my wife’s Acadia last year. Bought a $35 manifold gauge set, $60 vacuum pump, and $4.88 cans of r134 from Walmart.

The drier is likely in the condenser (the part sandwiched in front of the radiator) and the txv or expansion valve/orifice tube could be in the line at a joint, or a little square block thing between the line and evaporator. On the Acadia, this was right on the firewall but I replaced the evaporator too which meant pulling the entire dash apart, so it didn’t really matter.

When you charge, make sure you purge the yellow line on your gauge set after you’ve connected the r134 otherwise you’ll introduce some air that you just sucked out of the system with the vac pump (the red and blue lines should theoretically be air-free since you just pulled a vacuum). Wear gloves as it can freeze your skin.

I just replaced a schrader valve on my duramax last month and performed the same steps with one difference... I paid to have the Acadia evacuated, but the truck “had a leak” ;). Both are working great.


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