VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS > Build Threads
LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 3-Titan Fuel Tank & SAS]
KensAuto:
Then carefully installed all that onto the new Titan fuel cell.
I also applied a fresh coat of paint to the filter guards. Then I discovered the Cat filter is larger in diameter requiring me to saw a slit onto it's cover so it will slip over again.
A motorcycle jack is perfect to lower and raise the tank into position
KensAuto:
Looks sort of lonely under there doesn't it?
All that fluid on the ground, well before I had to wash everything out, is not diesel!
Yea...
After removing the Air Dog, I went about cutting my earlier fabbed mount off the frame. While cutting through, fluid started running all over all at once. Water?? Diesel??
No, neither? And it sure smelled a lot like brake fluid...
Somehow I managed to saw into the main brake line running aft which was well out of the way on top of the frame! I still don't know how I got into that, but I ripped right into it and ruined it. I'll have to cut out a section and splice in another section to repair it tomorrow.
I also picked up a cheapo 5 gallon pail of OptiLube. I figured I needed a bunch since I now have the tractor and Big Red sucking diesel as well, and that ULSD will foul those engine fuel injection pumps as well. THe Case has a Bosch inline P7100 and the J Deere 4720 is a common rail 4 cyl.
I also threw the Dewalt together in anticipation of starting the tac-topper project again. That means. of course, it will serve as the "DeWalt welding table for some time until I actually start to employ it with cutting something!
KensAuto:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armalite
"Don, one thing I've been wondering, and apparently its not an issue, is the off set added weight. Anyone calculated how much more extra weight will now be on that side of the truck, and I'm assuming it wont affect anything to drastically, while climbing over the top of off center kias? Just a thought, but you will probably be countering that added weight of fuel/tank by adding products to the other side opposite the tank, hence the clearing of the path on the exhaust pipe...
Just thinking out loud here, and should already know the answer." ...
I did think about it some
The Titan tank carries 21 extra gallons
a gallon weighs 6.8 pounds 21 X 6.8 = 142.8 lbs
The extra area of the tank probably adds in what feels like an additional 20 pounds. So we're looking at an additional 163 odd pounds, which isn't a big number.
You can already adjust for lateral weight bias through adjusting the torsion bar screws. I specificially set up my rear air springs to adjust independently.
Adjustment plan: After filling and measuring I think I'll see what (If any) difference in side to side height I have. Then measure the exact air pressure side to side. Then fill the low side bag until I'm level (side to side) again. say that is an additional 4 pounds of air. I'll take half of that and run the bag at that pressure. I'll also give the left torsion bar screw about a quarter to half a turn and leave it.
That should dial it in to be a decent base setting until I start adding the topper and loading it up as well...
KensAuto:
OK, another day, well about half of it, working on the titan fuel tank.
If I hadn't cut through that brake line, I would have finished by tonight, but that single mistake is really costing me.
I fussed around with this and that for a couple hours, then around noon went off to the auto parts store to pick up some 1/4" brake lines and fittings to make a repair. I picked up some DOT 3/4 fluid, had lunch then returned to the task at hand.
First I had to remove the coating on the factory brake line to even be able to slide on the male flare fitting.
Next I double flared the ends, screwed that into female union fitting and connected that to the replacement section.
That's where the fun started. After getting it tight, and never expecting a leak, I filled the MC, then while bleeding the rear brake, noticed the leak on one of the flares.
Well, I drained the fluid capturing about half of it to reuse, then cut off the defective end and did it all again. Filled the MC again and went to bleeding the right rear bleeder, the brake that line services. Well WHile getting a lot of air out, I wnet too far, and my son pumped the MC empty.
That little mistake caused me to have to pull both lines off the side of the MC and re-prime the piston(s). So I did that losing another quart of fluid and making a pretty big mess. While bleeding the brakes again, I noticed the leak reappeared at the same fitting! Damm!!!
So I corrected and tightened that, but not after losing most of the fluid again. At the present time I have a spongy pedal, but at least it does not go to the floor, and I am leak free! All of that cost me most of the day and made a mess too large to even think of remounting that fuel tank.
So I then decided to concentrate on getting the pump remounted, which I did. Here's the start of that process:
Actually, here's the brake line repair which is not seated and stowed in these photos. It all gets a lot neater...
KensAuto:
The fuel pump will now reside outside of the frame rail about a foot aft of where it mounted before. I fabbed up a top and bottom frame bracket. The one shown sets on the top of the frame and has two studs to capture the top filter mount. It wraps around the top of the frame, then will weld to the inside of the frame and is constructed of 3/16" steel.
Here is the part that holds the fuel pump, upper mount. THis part got welded to the frame capture bracket.
Here's the spot, and the upper mount welded in place with the filter hanging for bottom bracket alignment fitting
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