Author Topic: GLO Shop Trailer Build (Read 7730 times)

stlaser · « **on:** March 23, 2020, 09:06:37 PM »

Pulled trigger on building a car hauler trailer for the shop today.

Had been acquiring “things” when a good deal come around for some time now. Picked up a set of 7200# axles from Farmer Jon last summer which Nate so kindly delivered. Purchased over a ton of 3x3 1/4 angle out of the back of a Kohl’s Dept store they moved for $200 and today I picked up a set of Chevy truck rims and crappy tires for $100 to fit those axles. Tires will get updated in the future as will the wheel bearings, seals and brakes on the axles prior to use.

I then ordered new 3 20’ lengths of c6 and a single length of c3 channel for the frame along with some trailer parts to hang axles.

Shooting for 22-24’ deck with dovetail and removable ramps and pintle hitch. Probably use some tube in shop and bend up drive over fenders. Should see rest of the steel by end of week. In meantime going to start fabricating the 3x3 x1/4 angle into a heavy C shape for the upper frame structure, the c6 will be lower frame and tongue. The single piece of c3 will most likely be ramp material.

stlaser · « **Reply #1 on:** March 23, 2020, 09:11:27 PM »

So my next question is overall width.

102” is max but have no reason to go that wide really. Measured the axles and back space of wheels. So outside of wheels looks to be right around 94”

As a point of reference I measured the built jku w/ 1 ton front and fairly wide tires. Overall it measures 90” roughly. So I’m thinking 94” outside overall width would be spot on.

Change my mind, I’m not hauling tractors and equipment, just cars, trucks and projects plus lengths of steel on occasion.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2020, 09:21:08 PM »

I wouldn’t go any wider then required but.... I hate not being able to walk around the deck when loaded. So I’d argue five inches. It fits My standard needs lol

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stlaser · « **Reply #3 on:** March 23, 2020, 10:09:13 PM »

Copy Dave, for strapping down vehicles walking on trailer really doesn’t help you any. Most of mine would be lifted anyhow so working from ground is ok for gaining access to strap points. Thinking the first 6’ of deck will be covered in flooring all the way across and from there back will be roughly 30” wide either side leaving center mostly open. I prefer it this way if repairs are needed on the towed vehicle away from home. You just pull it up on trailer and can crouch underneath if needed trailer deck then acts as work bench of sorts.

Trailer will need a winch, I believe Norm purchased a 12k badlands hf unit a year or so ago for his. Guess I’ll hit him up on his experience but what does everyone else think?

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #4 on:** March 23, 2020, 10:19:57 PM »

Easier to get a truck on a trailer too wide than get a truck on a trailer too narrow...go maximum. Unless you are worried you aren’t able to tow such a rig.....

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stlaser · « **Reply #5 on:** March 23, 2020, 10:23:30 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on March 23, 2020, 10:19:57 PM

Easier to get a truck on a trailer too wide than get a truck on a trailer too narrow...go maximum. Unless you are worried you aren’t able to tow such a rig.....

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Good point, not worried about towing capacity for this trailer (excursion maybe, fummins negative)

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 23, 2020, 11:46:25 PM »

How long of a flat would you need to haul a four door quad cab?

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stlaser · « **Reply #7 on:** March 24, 2020, 12:16:29 AM »

New F350 w/ 8’ box is 176” (I just looked) wb so quick math tells me at least 14.6’ but you’d need space in front of tires so I’m guessing 17-18’

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 24, 2020, 12:24:29 AM »

Seems like mommas traverse measures 205 long I think
17 feet bumper to bumper

Or do you not worry about over hang?

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stlaser · « **Reply #9 on:** March 24, 2020, 05:21:07 AM »

I wouldn’t worry about rear overhang, front some. Although I’m looking at min 22’ of deck space. One of my goals is to be able to throw jku or crawler type on rear and leave room for dirt bikes up front.

stlaser · « **Reply #10 on:** March 24, 2020, 02:45:57 PM »

And so it begins, 24’ total 20’ being flat and 4’ (roughly) dovetail. Upper section of frame will just be 3x3 x 1/4 angle structure, it will be more than heavy enough to support loads w/ C6 lower frame and tongue under it by my thinking. Essentially a 9” tall beam.

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stlaser · « **Reply #11 on:** March 24, 2020, 03:53:39 PM »

My simple sketch of what I’m doing

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Sammconn · « **Reply #12 on:** March 24, 2020, 04:35:49 PM »

I’ve got the HF 12k Badlands in my bumper. It’s no Warn, but for $200 it’s served me well the few times I’ve needed. Pulled an F-350 out of a near vertical 8-9’ deep ditch on single line. So it works.

stlaser · « **Reply #13 on:** March 24, 2020, 04:43:21 PM »

Quote from: Sammconn on March 24, 2020, 04:35:49 PM

I’ve got the HF 12k Badlands in my bumper. It’s no Warn, but for $200 it’s served me well the few times I’ve needed. Pulled an F-350 out of a near vertical 8-9’ deep ditch on single line. So it works.

Spoke to Norm, said basically same thing. It’s not a warn but serves its purpose. His largest concern was the aluminum drum and or housing. Said if line was wound up wrong you could bust it potentially. Being his is mounted to a trailer he shortened cable to 40’ and no worries now.

stlaser · « **Reply #14 on:** March 24, 2020, 08:03:19 PM »

Some high tec ciphering going on right here

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Bear9350 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 24, 2020, 08:38:14 PM »

So 94" is from outside to outside? What does that give you for width between the wheels/ fenders? If I was doing my trailer project again I would be finding some spare tubing to splice into the axles to widen them closer to the max. To many times I have found an extra couple of inches would have helped a lot with loading.

stlaser · « **Reply #16 on:** March 24, 2020, 08:40:39 PM »

Approximately 76” or so between fenders, drive over fenders are the plan and a winch.

Bear9350 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 24, 2020, 09:00:19 PM »

Quote from: stlaser on March 24, 2020, 08:40:39 PM

Approximately 76” or so between fenders, drive over fenders are the plan and a winch.

Based on the sketch, the center section will be open/ not decked. Do you plan on ramping the entire decked section over the wheels?

stlaser · « **Reply #18 on:** March 24, 2020, 10:21:02 PM »

Sketch leaves a tad to be desired. So the sketch is basically frame, areas that will be wood decking in green. Trailer will also have outriggers / wood extending out to 94” wide (about same overall width as tires) the drive over fenders will be round tube and steel with some traction additive maybe in the way of tread plate but just over tires. Sketch also doesn’t show dovetail but it will be decked with some grating I have which will give traction on that slope and allow mud and crap to hopefully fall off or thru. Thinking the entire dovetail will hsve grating but maybe just tire paths like on top deck at back end.

stlaser · « **Reply #19 on:** March 25, 2020, 05:09:33 PM »

Upper frame section 20’ long, square within a 1/16th I’ll take it! Ratchet strap for the win....

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 25, 2020, 05:34:05 PM »

The photo makes that look really narrow

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stlaser · « **Reply #21 on:** March 25, 2020, 06:28:40 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on March 25, 2020, 05:34:05 PM

The photo makes that look really narrow

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That is currently 70.5” wide but will get bumped out around 12” each side with outriggers

Did receive an update the C channel I ordered won’t arrive until Monday now. So I’ll have this frame completely welded and ready for lower frame on Monday.

stlaser · « **Reply #22 on:** March 27, 2020, 05:27:09 PM »

Slow progress waiting on all the small cuts in the saw. So working on several things as saw cuts.

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 27, 2020, 09:41:16 PM »

Man, you don't let any grass grow under your feet! Its coming together quickly

stlaser · « **Reply #24 on:** March 27, 2020, 10:30:22 PM »

I have all the short cross pieces all cut now for other side and frame is up on the 2 post lift. I’ll use lift and pipe stands tomorrow to get it up at welding table height then leveled and weld everything in solid. C channel should arrive Monday and plan is to fab the lower frame on floor with upper frame out of way on lift. Get axles hung / tires mounted on lower frame then mate two together. More overhead welding than I wanted to do but the upper frame weighs around 900# by itself and I have no real way to flip it. Last will be adding dovetail on rear.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 27, 2020, 11:15:41 PM »

Please explain the little pieces on the one side? What fur?

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stlaser · « **Reply #26 on:** March 27, 2020, 11:29:08 PM »

See the frame, right side has short pieces of angle laying from left to right across pictures left side of frame has none. They are cut and marked out just not installed. These short pieces are what wood decking will screw or bolt to eventually.

stlaser · « **Reply #27 on:** March 29, 2020, 04:36:06 PM »

Upper frame welded up, c channel for lower frame and tongue due in tomorrow

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stlaser · « **Reply #28 on:** April 01, 2020, 10:26:34 PM »

Took apart the suspension from the donor axles I received from Jon. Wire wheeled them and used graphite paint on the springs. The shackles were worn out so I am building new ones and waiting on new ubolts and frame mounts for the springs. Steel showed up and laid the lower frame out on cad to calculate angles and notches and measurements. Starting to come together bit by bit

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stlaser · « **Reply #29 on:** April 07, 2020, 04:21:22 PM »

So we have a problem, I had believed these were 7200# axles because of hubs (did seem odd being 6 lug hubs) and today I found out they were 5200# units. After some further research it appears the 7k axles are all 8 lug so still not sure why the casting on the hub is marked 7200. Anyway I’ve decided to cap overall length at 22’ Will be keeping the 20’ upper frame as is and tossing a short 2’ dovetail on the rear.

stlaser · « **Reply #30 on:** April 07, 2020, 04:22:20 PM »

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 07, 2020, 05:55:15 PM »

Why are you making it short? Why not source new axles?

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stlaser · « **Reply #32 on:** April 07, 2020, 06:41:44 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on April 07, 2020, 05:55:15 PM

Why are you making it short? Why not source new axles?

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Well, it’s not just axles. It’s suspension, hangers, wheels, mounting hardware etc etc. so I’ll finish building this as I haven’t cut and notched long channels for the tongue and sub frame. 22’ will do 90% of what I needed and the parts are bought and paid for.

Bear9350 · « **Reply #33 on:** April 07, 2020, 10:31:03 PM »

So are you just shortening it up a bit to reduce trailer weight? Doesn't seem to me that you will be trimming off that much weight and it sounds like your intended cargo would keep you under 10,000. Will the shortened trailer cause any concern for weight distribution when loading?

stlaser · « **Reply #34 on:** April 07, 2020, 10:54:36 PM »

Quote from: Bear9350 on April 07, 2020, 10:31:03 PM

So are you just shortening it up a bit to reduce trailer weight? Doesn't seem to me that you will be trimming off that much weight and it sounds like your intended cargo would keep you under 10,000. Will the shortened trailer cause any concern for weight distribution when loading?

The idea with 24’ was to get two short wheel base vehicles on there with heavier axles. These axles won’t give me capacity to safely do that at least in my opinion and I’ve broke several trailers overloading them (steel industry). My initial thought upon learning of my error was to cut loose back 4’ of the upper 20’ frame and dovetail it making a 20’ trailer overall. After cleaning up the axle tubes for paint I decided not to mess with the upper frame and just do a short 2’ dovetail to be able to load a single truck with or without ramps depending.

Your right I could make it 24’ and then I’d probably overload it at some point and would rather not so that’s my logic and probably flawed.

stlaser · « **Reply #35 on:** April 08, 2020, 01:19:14 PM »

Pulled out the mobile painting booth. Cleaned up the “5200#” axles and sprayed them with etching primer and then gloss black, the spring packs were blown apart then coated w/ graphite paint and reassembled w/ new grade 8 hardware

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 08, 2020, 02:03:02 PM »

How fast can you paint on the freeway?

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stlaser · « **Reply #37 on:** April 08, 2020, 04:08:20 PM »

Dave, can’t recall painting on the freeway but we may have wrenched on race rigs inside and enclosed on the highway once or twice......

stlaser · « **Reply #38 on:** April 08, 2020, 04:24:40 PM »

Interesting info, so I looked up bearings and brakes. It would appear those are all the same 5200-7000# axles....

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #39 on:** April 08, 2020, 05:48:42 PM »

So.... with the bearings being the same what gives? Springs?

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stlaser · « **Reply #40 on:** April 08, 2020, 05:50:01 PM »

Lower frame rails, notched and bent by hand then welded at appropriate angle (both ended up within half a degree that same way, overbent)

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stlaser · « **Reply #41 on:** April 08, 2020, 05:52:46 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on April 08, 2020, 05:48:42 PM

So.... with the bearings being the same what gives? Springs?

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Yes and my guess is the spindles are identical & just as strong but the tube is thinner. So as Mike has stated (not sure if it was in text or here) I should have just cut them and sleeved the outside. Which could have been done but, forward progress and all. I missed out on a smoking deal today if trailer was done I could have flipped a truck.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 08, 2020, 06:37:46 PM »

Back up just a little, been spraying lacquer all day lol

Sleeve the axles? Cut the spindles off, slip the tube inside a bigger tube and call it 7k axles after you weld the spindle back on. Is that really how simple ?

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stlaser · « **Reply #43 on:** April 08, 2020, 06:59:47 PM »

Couple ways to do it, bear spoke earlier of widening them. Cut in half after measuring camber, length by slipping each side into tube. Weld on new spring perches. Or just cut spindles off and weld onto new tube (how I would do it after bending camber in new tube in press).

stlaser · « **Reply #44 on:** April 09, 2020, 08:34:24 PM »

I got about this far today on the trailer..... kept getting sidetracked with jobs that pay me money.

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KensAuto · « **Reply #45 on:** April 09, 2020, 10:18:08 PM »

Looks good Mr clean. 2 angle cuts in one day? Wow. Stay strong

stlaser · « **Reply #46 on:** April 09, 2020, 10:23:14 PM »

Technically 4 (cut with a torch) and I ground the cross braces I notched the night before......

Thanks for vote of confidence though

KensAuto · « **Reply #47 on:** April 09, 2020, 10:29:48 PM »

The Mr clean was a reference to how often you cut your hair.

stlaser · « **Reply #48 on:** April 09, 2020, 10:45:15 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on April 09, 2020, 10:29:48 PM

The Mr clean was a reference to how often you cut your hair.

When I was dating my wife (and prior when I was on high school baseball team) I shaved my head with a bic. It didn’t bother me too much because back then they actually thinned my hair when cutting it. Now nature has done that for me! So I am considering the bic razor and a little scared I won’t need that much longer either! Lol

stlaser · « **Reply #49 on:** April 10, 2020, 04:06:06 PM »

At this rate the trailer will be done by the time they find a cure for the wutang flu....

Removable hitch for front of trailer so I can remove at storage yard.

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