I looked around a long time trying to figure out what to do in my new garage.  I didn't like the solid color look or the cost of the good epoxy products.  But I refused to do the cheap floor paint that you find at big box stores.  I had done that before and it didn't last well at all.  I wanted something I could apply with a roller, basically gave a gloss shine to the concrete, was durable and was reasonably priced.  I finally landed on the Legacy Industrial HD6525MMA sealer and couldn't be happier. 

These guys basically have it covered. 
14 ga= 15 amp max   
12 ga= 20 amp max

I concur ...

Also remember that they specific type of light bulb you plan to use is irrelevant (LED, CFL, incandescent, etc.).  You have to assume that somewhere along the line, someone may put 100 watt incandescent light bulbs in each and every socket.  So size the wire and breaker accordingly.  In my new garage addition, I have 8 bulb sockets each with a 9W LED bulb.  A whole whopping 72 watts!!!  But I still used 12ga wire assuming I could later change bulbs to 100 watt ones for a total of 800 watts.

I agree, they get credit for meeting all the owner's requirements.  That is pretty clever.  Just add some large antennas to the back for the final touch of realism.

The accelerator pump is basically a rubber diaphragm.  I have had similar idling issues when it dried up and cracked.  I chased jetting for days until finding that the crack in the rubber pump.  Might be worth a look.  Either that or your idle circuit got plugged with dirt.

That looks like a ton of work.  Nice job.  How will you test if it's water tight?

I was hoping the repair would be as simple as ordering a new tie rod end.  However in Deere's infinite wisdom, someone concluded that it was more important to make the steering cylinder as short as possible.  So the ball joint is welded to the end of the shaft.  The only way to replace it is to buy an entire new power steering cylinder for $350.  I decided that was stupid.  So I cut off the parts and drove to the store.



They were able to size the ball end mounting shaft with a caliper.  It was a tapered shaft, which I thought would be a problem.  After trying several different off the shelf tie rod ends, he was successful.  They had the exact correct tapered shaft, same size and thread for the nut even.  The cup side of the joint was threaded, typical for most cars, but I didn't care since I was going to cut it off anyway.  For all of $10 I was on my way.  It even had a grease zerk!

When I got home I welded it to the power steering cylinder shaft, applied some paint, added fresh grease and checked this problem off the list.

Looks much mo betta!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!  I should have noted that the traction with these seems to be a lot better so far.  But to be fair my turf tires were totally bald.

I bolted the tires back on, well tried at least.  Would you believe that the tolerances are so perfect that the thickness of the paint would prevent the new center from fitting?  So I sanded the paint back off the center holes and out from the bolt holes.  Once again a perfect fit.  The rear wheels now made the front ones look really old, rusty and dirty.  Someday I might repaint them to match.  Or not, it's a tractor that lives in the mud.

I have heard in some states the middle two digits that are separated by a dash should match the year of your birthday.

I forgot to note that I did prime it all first.

This paint was available at my local farm and fleet, so I thought I would give it a try.

It was mixed at 8 parts paint to 1 part each hardener and naphtha.  Sprayed at 25 psi with a cheapo harbor freight gun.  Yet I was very happy with the spray pattern and consistency.   The paint layed down smooth and thick.  My second coat had one run near the valve stem, my fault.  Otherwise I am happy with it.  Pics don't show well but it ended up very shiny.

Now that I was confident that it would work, I started welding in the centers.  First I just tacked them in.  Mounted it up and spun the wheel to measure for true.  Luckily setting the wheel on the concrete floor and just using a small level was enough to get them square.  The outer lip of the wheel wasn't perfectly true, but was very close, within 2mm left to right and also up/down.  I think it will work just fine for a low speed off road vehicle.  I started welding small sections across from each other to avoid warping it.  Then over the course of many days as time allowed, they finally became completely solid.





The red in the background is primer that was sprayed on the backside of the stock wheel center.  I know this area will be hard to paint after it's complete so I wanted to get it primed well.



I was concerned about using a 110v mig welder for this application.  But after the first tests, the heat pattern on the back side of the rim appeared to indicate that I was getting sufficient penetration.  So I continued with it.

Now lets see how the rims line up using the new center.



Here the rim is just friction fit onto the center.  Clearances look good between the rim and the tractor frame.



Unfortunately it is clear that my impact sockets don't have enough clearance to access the lug bolts.

That would be fun...

Sounds like you found the perfect spot!

That looks awesome!

Could you use a small folding receiver hitch mounted basket, or possibly a small foldable trailer to haul back the game?

That looks really amazing!  Can't wait to see it all done.

Thats my son.  I think I posted a pic of him on top of our ranger if that's what you mean.

That's what I was thinking as well.  But he made it sound like it wasn't too bad.  He may have left them in the sun to soften, it was like 90 here today.  So maybe that helped?

Sounds like you had a lot of fun!  I still remember the first time I tried Maker's Mark when visiting some friends in Nashville.  I naively assumed it was some local specialty until I got back home and found it at my local liquor store sitting only a few feet away from my typical bottle of Jack.  I was both excited to add variety to my drinking experience and frustrated that my friends tricked me into thinking it was only available down south.  But what good are friends for anyway?

Too funny

Took a while for me to catch up with this.  It's looking great.  But is it my eyes or did the new paint not quite match the OEM paint color?  Was the Val spar stuff guaranteed to match or did you just pick the closest Green?  It still looks really good, just curious for when I might be ordering paint.

Red RTV ...  .  But maybe you won't see any of it anyway.  Good band-aid solution.

Except those skid steer one run off fast hydraulics not a gear box. You were a pilot so I'll refrain from covering the basics of that difference assuming you already know where I'm going.....

Where's Duane when you need him? ???

Maybe I missed it, but I was assuming he would just modify the current one to look like these so that it could be used to back over trees.  Not actually mount skid steer equipment on a tractor.  Which I agree is difficult for many reasons.

So your typical oil change then?

Should this be it's own build thread?  It is sounding worthy.  I am curious to see your LED lights.  I just purchased a 20" one to mount on my roll bar.  Bench testing proved it was way brighter than I expected, which is awesome.  But it also showed the pattern is very focused on a small area.  I was looking more for a flood type output, so still debating whether to use it on the tractor.