Hide Site/Bug out Site construction thread, Part 3

[Flyin6]

That stuff latched right onto the acrylic panel. I'll have to use a saw to remove the clear stuff if I ever need to. I used a saw, then some sand paper to contour in the edges enough to hold paint and not look like a complete mess

[Flyin6]

Then I placed them into the cutouts in the structure

And trimmed around them creating a flange which I can attach weather stripping to the backside to help seal in the heated air

[Flyin6]

I created a ledge just above the acrylic and beveled the edge so that water will drip away from the plastic (I think)

[Flyin6]

Then after taping off the doors, I started painting the trim

[Flyin6]

And then started painting some of the trim.

Note: Most of the trim is not installed yet. I plan to create it, then paint it seperately and assemble once on site

[JR]

I'd say drag it out and try it, but no fans yet?

[stlaser]

This is quite the interesting contraption, guessing with tuck mild winters this may in fact work. Good job Big D.

[Flyin6]

This is quite the interesting contraption, guessing with tuck mild winters this may in fact work. Good job Big D.

It's been working in Wyoming doing the same thing. Ought to work here

[Flyin6]

I'd say drag it out and try it, but no fans yet?

Fans are coming

[moto123]

I am not sold yet on the clear corrugated panel.  I have three main issues with it and am thinking a clear single pane glass would be better.  It would be very interesting to compare the two directly.  Will your panels work?  Yes. But will they be the most optimum, premium, best possible solution?  I think more testing is required.   

1.  not completely clear, anything less than totally clear will block sunlight and reflect the energy back outside instead of letting it in.
2.  corrugations increase surface area, increasing the heat loss through the window
3.  corrugations have so many different angles, it would diffuse the light into some strange angles, again seems less efficient.

[JR]

Dark colors absorb heat.

Maybe another about the same size to see the diff with glass.

[stlaser]

This is quite the interesting contraption, guessing with tuck mild winters this may in fact work. Good job Big D.

It's been working in Wyoming doing the same thing. Ought to work here

Wyoming, well that's a real man state so I would have to agree.....

[dave945]

that looks pretty sweet, I'm really interested on your temperature differentials when all is said and done since I'm only a few.miles north of you.

Dave

Should have it installed early in Feb, so we'll know soon.

I'd offer to lend a hand, but I'm afraid I'd end up face first in the back of your truck with my head in a gunny sack to keep the location secure.  That being said, I'd probably still be willing to help if you needed it, I'm a little odd like that.

Dave

I run the local security ministry where I am teaching a bunch of folks stuff like you just described. If you showed up, we may treat you as a training aid!
Dunno, it'd be fun for us!
Wanna show up at a training session?
Think about it... ;-)

Sounds like an adventure I might be willing to try. If its going to happen to me I guess it would be better in a somewhat safe environment the first time. Next time it might not be so friendly. But I'm just weird when it comes to getting oddball learning experiences.

[OldKooT]

I'd enjoy the training mission...but they would have to sign a injury waiver.

Pretty sure it's been long ago proven clear glass works the best. But it has t's drawbacks...like hail

[Flyin6]

I am not sold yet on the clear corrugated panel.  I have three main issues with it and am thinking a clear single pane glass would be better.  It would be very interesting to compare the two directly.  Will your panels work?  Yes. But will they be the most optimum, premium, best possible solution?  I think more testing is required.   

1.  not completely clear, anything less than totally clear will block sunlight and reflect the energy back outside instead of letting it in.
2.  corrugations increase surface area, increasing the heat loss through the window
3.  corrugations have so many different angles, it would diffuse the light into some strange angles, again seems less efficient.

I'm just using the same material that is recommended by others over on the solar site.
Glass is a good transmitter, but it can be broken easily
THis stuff is a bit more robust and is less expensive.
Folks have a lot of success with the corrougated clear panel, and the light transmission is pretty close to clear glass from what I have read.
I am not going for the most and the best here. I am only trying to keep water from freezing, nothing more. This should accomplish the task so it solves a major problem for me.
Collectors I make later on might have better panels, like a clear poly-acrylic, but those would have cost $90 per collector and blown the budget up.
Part of the "Charm" of this is that it is quick, easy , and cheap. Na it works, so it checks the block, and that's all I need it to do.
Thanks for the comments though, they are all valid, mostly...

[Flyin6]

Those doors turned out great. I am using Bear ultimate paint, I think its called. It's not the best, but the next step down. I think it is warranted for three months not to fall off or spontaneously combust and it is hippie approved!

[Flyin6]

Then I threw some color on the collector panels

[Flyin6]

And hung one door, but something weird happened, and the door doesn't fit well now. I have to cut a section out of the center frame which isn't easy to get a tad more room

[Flyin6]

Next I drilled and installed the permanent anchor bolts (Which are removable for break-down) and removed the interior 3" wood screws that had held the business together up to this point

Those corners will get trimmed out with 4" X 3/4" painted pine board

[Flyin6]

Then I started covering myself with fiberglass shards and even managed to get some of the stuff on the walls!

It will get covered with that purdy pink foam board you ladies like so much! ;-)

[Flyin6]

Its getting there

[Flyin6]

I just about have the structure completed and ready to transport down to the Farm

I just couldn't get the doors which are pretty thick, to fit well, so I cut out the center post and built another thinner one

Then hung the second door

[Flyin6]

Now I am getting a nice snug fit. I am settling for the tighter fit, since I do not envision getting into that space very often.

I used a simple gate latch to hold the doors closed, although I'll double up on that once I get the thing final assembled on site

[Flyin6]

The pin captures both doors and holds them within an eighth of an inch from closing. I plan to build a flange behind the doors and set some foam sealer strip on it to really seal that area up

[Flyin6]

I was running pretty low on the pine board, but with what I had remaining, I cut out the roof trim front and back

[Flyin6]

Remember the roof is actually two halves which must be coupled and completed once fastened to the structure, so the trim has a gap which I will cover with this patch

[Flyin6]

Trim pieces already cut and fitted are stacking up awaiting some paint

[Flyin6]

The corners trim out with opposite and overlapping joints

[Flyin6]

The underside of the roof is similarly trimmed and will get a bead of calk once final assembled

[Flyin6]

I came up with this little key way section to tie the underside trim pieces together

It's a bit crooked because the roof panels are not attached, but just resting there. It will all tighten up with some of those long screws!

[moto123]

Looking great!  Can't wait to see it all broken down for transport.  Then to see if it reassembles again without any issues.  Good luck!

[Flyin6]

I finally finished distributing fibers of glass strands in and around my neckline, and the inside of the structure...YIPPEE!

[Flyin6]

Yes, and thank you for asking, I did tape the adjacent pieces of insulation bat together. Found this super tape that is used in the military to tape rotor blades back onto helicopter rotorheads when they fall off...Good stuff!

I created this flange surrounding the inside of the door to which I plan to affix some foam gasket stuff

[Flyin6]

And added another latch

Because

I guess I purchased two of them and just noticed the one laying on the floor in a pile of debris.

[Flyin6]

Then I started covering the itchy mess with that foam board Shawn swoons over. Personally, I don't care for the color, but he does, so I continue using it to keep him and other folks happy

[Flyin6]

And more, concentrating on overlapping joints and good seals

Side note: At this point, around 1530, the Scout dog escaped, but I hadn't realized it. I didn't realize it until I was showering at 1745 and realized the dog wasn't around

So off we went hunting the thing

and found him

In a mud puddle in the back of the neighbors, several houses up the street

[Flyin6]

The door seal detail is shown here minus the foam gasket that will get applied over some paint

[Flyin6]

I cut up the scrap foam board and stuffed it into every remaining nook and cranny

[Flyin6]

Then covered the remaining exposed wood

I want to say I have a minimum of R17 walls and roof. Not the best, but much better than bare studded and sheeted wall. Considering the potential for thermal storage of 500+ gallons of water, I shouldn't see any problems out of this setup excpet under very severe conditions.

[JR]

I was going to suggest tyveking it, but that works!

[dave945]

Just a thought, not sure if it really a concern pr not.  What about moisture levels and mold inside the structure, particularly in the warmer months. You are going to have 500 gallons of h2o stored in there, so there is a good chance of humidity and condensation.  Not sure what the fix action would be,but I would guess it would be preferrsble to remediation.

[cj7ox]

Just a thought, not sure if it really a concern pr not.  What about moisture levels and mold inside the structure, particularly in the warmer months. You are going to have 500 gallons of h2o stored in there, so there is a good chance of humidity and condensation.  Not sure what the fix action would be,but I would guess it would be preferrsble to remediation.

How about creating a collector for all that condensation, that transports it to the water supply? I don't know how you'd do it, specifically, but I'm sure the vast amount of ingenuity and intellect that Big D has in his BHG (Brain Housing Group) could figure it out.

[EL TATE]

Smaller version of this stuff: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_water_generator

[dave945]

I may be just a dumb Kentucky hock, but isn't that just a dehumidifier with a filter and a spigot?

[Wilbur]

I may be just a dumb Kentucky hock, but isn't that just a dehumidifier with a filter and a spigot?

Yeah but its lots cooler looking with the arrows and colors.

[Flyin6]

Just a thought, not sure if it really a concern pr not.  What about moisture levels and mold inside the structure, particularly in the warmer months. You are going to have 500 gallons of h2o stored in there, so there is a good chance of humidity and condensation.  Not sure what the fix action would be,but I would guess it would be preferrsble to remediation.

I don't know what to design/modify for at the moment. I just can't guess at what might happen once I get the thing running. I would expect some moisture, but with all the insulation, temp changes should be less than what we see in a normal shed. And speaking of which, how much moisture and or mold do we see inside sheds?
The tanks will be fairly well sealed, hooked to a filler pipe and rain gutter collection pipe which will have a vent as well. So the transfer of water vapor outside the tank should be minimal.

But the structure will sit atop a gravel base (Read: Porous) so again, who knows yet???

[JR]

I think you will be OK. It is not a air tight area and you are moving air though it.

[Flyin6]

I just suffered a Catastrophic PFE! (Picture Fail Event)

I worked a bunch on the containment building yestertag, dutifully snappin' up the good pics, then went to down load them on the confuser last night, and all I know for sure is they were on the camera, and on the card. But somewhere between moving the pics from the card to the hard drive, then were sent to another dimension.

The pictures would have told the story of some cool tools and my installing the water fill pipeage and foolin with some pesky stuff called PEX.

Now this PEX stuff is strange. Not the semi felible tube, but the fittings. So I started wout with brand new RV parts. A Sur-Flow pump, a filter and an accumulator. It would seem the threads on the PEX are not 1/2" NPT. They are some Chinese, hungul, Hajji, Eskimo thing, because they did not fit.

Not so much that they didn't fit, but that in not fitting, I destroyed my Sur-Flow pump, which to my knowledge has not seen it's first spark, and the dandy pressure bladder (Accumulator) with it's plastic threads. Both of those threaded nipples are now discolored, twisted, and pointing off in some unnatural angle that they did not come with.

So what the heck is it with this PEX thread adapter fitting curse?

[Flyin6]

Hold on, not so quick there beaver!

I found em'

So let's start with a pic of the floor

Cool hugh?

Actually, the tape represents the area of the floor that the actual water tanks will soon occupy

[Flyin6]

And the cool hole saw (Expensive!!) that will carve a neat hole through all the layers in this thing