Author Topic: LR-10 .308 Build (Read 12158 times)

KensAuto · « **on:** August 24, 2016, 11:43:03 PM »

I started off by purchasing a few 80% lowers, before they become non-existent, a couple being 308, and a few AR 15s versions. They were supposed to sit in the safe collecting dust, but then I realized that I needed a 308 to go with the 556s.
So, here's a billet 308 (top) and a forged 5.56, both in 7075 aluminum.

KensAuto · « **Reply #1 on:** August 24, 2016, 11:48:34 PM »

I purchased the jigs from the same company, 80% arms.

For those that don't know what an 80% lower is, it's one that hasn't had the trigger pocket milled out, nor the safety and trigger pin holes drilled. Until these milling operations are completed, it's not considered a firearm by the atf, and as long as you complete the work yourself, it doesn't have to have a serial number and doesn't have to be registered. (this may change shortly with the upcoming election).
That being said, you aren't allowed (legally) to sell or give it away, and it counts as one of the homemade firearms that you can build per year.

Here's some of the different jig pieces:

This one is used to drill out a large portion of material before hitting it with a router (it's a bunch of Very Hard material...harder than mild steel):

KensAuto · « **Reply #2 on:** August 24, 2016, 11:56:21 PM »

I won't bore you with all of the details, but here's the basics:

First set the drill bit to the proper length and tighten collet, and make sure it doesn't come loose!

I didn't have to drill out the rear pocket, so those 2 holes in the template were taped over.

...All 7 holes drilled in the trigger pocket:

KensAuto · « **Reply #3 on:** August 25, 2016, 12:01:52 AM »

I used a trim router (like they suggest) to start the process, and it's not fun, only going about 1/16" deep at a time:

After a couple hours of vibrating your hands to pieces, you end up with this:

In that pick, I had already turned it on it's side and drilled the safety and trigger pin holes. There's also a template for cutting the trigger hole in the bottom of the pocket (also with a router)

stlaser · « **Reply #4 on:** August 25, 2016, 12:04:02 AM »

Dumb question, ;D you own a flipping mill! Why did you use a router?

KensAuto · « **Reply #5 on:** August 25, 2016, 12:08:12 AM »

I cleaned it up on the mill, but I was trying not to destroy the templates (MADE for a router) on the very first one. I have since done most of the work on a couple 556s on the mill. I feel more experienced now. lol

KensAuto · « **Reply #6 on:** August 25, 2016, 12:08:31 AM »

After some sandblasting and cleaning, it went in the oven, along with a 556 version, to prepare for Cerakote:

BobbyB · « **Reply #7 on:** August 25, 2016, 03:19:24 AM »

Nice job.

stlaser · « **Reply #8 on:** August 25, 2016, 08:22:36 AM »

Quote from: KensAuto on August 25, 2016, 12:08:12 AM

I cleaned it up on the mill, but I was trying not to destroy the templates (MADE for a router) on the very first one. I have since done most of the work on a couple 556s on the mill. I feel more experienced now. lol

Copy, nice work there Ken!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 25, 2016, 09:20:49 AM »

Ken,

How about the non forged lowers, are they even worth messing with?

Anderson Arms, being one town over would/might be a good source for the unfinished receivers, but I don't think they are forged.

BobbyB · « **Reply #10 on:** August 25, 2016, 09:31:33 AM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on August 25, 2016, 09:20:49 AM

Ken,

How about the non forged lowers, are they even worth messing with?

Anderson Arms, being one town over would/might be a good source for the unfinished receivers, but I don't think they are forged.

Unless I'm mistake Anderson Arms lowers are forged.

KensAuto · « **Reply #11 on:** August 25, 2016, 10:28:12 AM »

When it comes to lowers, billet is the best, starting out as a solid chunk of aluminum. When they say forged, it's not what you think...that's why they're cheaper.

...forgot to add the "winkwink"

KensAuto · « **Reply #12 on:** August 25, 2016, 10:44:13 AM »

Here's where I "cheated" a little. Instead of building an upper (I have zero experience with this) I purchased one complete. This one came from a local shop, Veriforce Tactical, and it consists of a dpms upper, a Ballistic Advantage barrel in 1:10 twist, melonite coated, with something they call a "Tank Brake" which looks super loud, and of course a nitride BCG. They also test fire when done.

I also purchased the skeleton stock (Guntec), small parts kit (guntec), and vise block from them. Note: the trigger is absolutely horrible .

here's the lower assembled:

KensAuto · « **Reply #13 on:** August 25, 2016, 10:45:58 AM »

I had issues with how the grip fit in the beavertail area, so I took a heat gun to it to form it better.

...before:

...after:

KensAuto · « **Reply #14 on:** August 25, 2016, 10:48:19 AM »

Next up the buffer tube/stock with ambi sling mount...also painted to match in FDE:

Then I changed out the charging handle catch to an extended version:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 25, 2016, 10:52:23 AM »

I ran a "Tac-Latch" on my real combat gun in the Stan

Big woolly aviator gloves in the winter...

KensAuto · « **Reply #16 on:** August 25, 2016, 11:52:21 AM »

...and here it is completed to that point:

I found these keymod plugs, to keep from burning my fragile/delicate hands, in desert tan. Only time will tell if they last or start popping out like popcorn!

stlaser · « **Reply #17 on:** August 25, 2016, 11:54:53 AM »

Quote from: KensAuto on August 25, 2016, 10:45:58 AM

I had issues with how the grip fit in the beavertail area, so I took a heat gun to it to form it better.

...before:

...after:

If I recall my grip was really tight going on too, but I just used a vice to force it on.... ;D

Editted by yours truly. :)

KensAuto · « **Reply #18 on:** August 25, 2016, 11:55:01 AM »

Some more goodies came in yesterday, like this nice padded sling from Troy:

KensAuto · « **Reply #19 on:** August 25, 2016, 11:57:55 AM »

....an over the rail sling mount and qd swivel:

..and a no frills bipod:

KensAuto · « **Reply #20 on:** August 25, 2016, 12:04:10 PM »

I needed to tighten up the upper-to-lower slop so I installed one of these wedges under the rear take down pin:

Then came a cheapo qd scope mount:

...to go with a mid range scope. I didn't want to go balls out on a scope until I see what this gun is capable of as far as distance/accuracy. If it works out, and allows me to shoot 6-800yrds, I might throw my Trijicon on it from the 300 weatherby, and get a Nightforce for it since the Trigi is about maxxed out at 1000 yrds, at 20x power. The 300 can go much further, I think.

...getting it level:

KensAuto · « **Reply #21 on:** August 25, 2016, 12:22:07 PM »

The sling attached. Troy builds their slings wide on the top...1.5", so my latched hook wouldn't fit, and it would be to noisy, so i went old school and wrapped around the buffer tube:

KensAuto · « **Reply #22 on:** August 25, 2016, 12:31:46 PM »

Here's the obnoxious brake;

...and more stuff like a new soft case that holds (in theory) 3 long guns...up to 42":

...and finally, a box of mags, both steel and plastic, to see which ones work best:

stlaser · « **Reply #23 on:** August 25, 2016, 01:25:51 PM »

Quote from: stlaser on August 25, 2016, 11:54:53 AM

Quote from: KensAuto on August 25, 2016, 10:45:58 AM
I had issues with how the grip fit in the beavertail area, so I took a heat gun to it to form it better.

...before:

...after:

If I recall my grip was really tight going on too, but I just used a vice to force it on.... ;D

Editted by yours truly. :)

Only an H supporter would think using a vice to manipulate a gun build would be ok..... ::)

Btw, why would a weenie who uses a heat gun to assemble his rifle buy a 3 gun case? You already know you're too old to be toting that many around at once..... ;D

BobbyB · « **Reply #24 on:** August 25, 2016, 02:00:50 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on August 25, 2016, 11:52:21 AM

I found these keymod plugs, to keep from burning my fragile/delicate hands, in desert tan.

Gloves, or embrace the burn!

KensAuto · « **Reply #25 on:** August 25, 2016, 02:53:03 PM »

You guys are harsh!

Shawny, the case has a nifty shooting mat inside that will protect the ONE gun that will reside there. :P

stlaser · « **Reply #26 on:** August 25, 2016, 03:47:14 PM »

Hey, I think I figured out why Ken uses all those fancy coatings on his gun builds.

You know at first I thought maybe he was just one of those pretty boys you see at the gun range and he wanted to look GQ with his firearms. Hey it's not my thing but maybe for some guys depending on how they lean?!?

So I thought no that can't be right, somewhere I saw a pic floating around and I couldn't for the life of me see anyone thinking ol Ken & pretty in the same sentence. However, there are a lot of crazy out west here....

Then I was thinking maybe he's worried about them guns a rusting away. Wait, nope he lives in the desert. Rust shouldn't be an issue.

Finally, I was driving near hippy land & saw a Hillary bumper sticker & said I Got It! It all fell into place with the bumper sticker. When his fav girl H comes for a visit I bet he buries those guns in the desert & wants to make sure they don't get all scratched up.

Now see with the bumper sticker that's what you call "coming full circle"! 8)

KensAuto · « **Reply #27 on:** August 25, 2016, 04:27:06 PM »

stlaser · « **Reply #28 on:** August 25, 2016, 05:11:33 PM »

Sorry Ken, but on the bright side you do build really nice firearms! :)

EL TATE · « **Reply #29 on:** August 25, 2016, 06:37:48 PM »

Shawn, 1 Ken 0, LOL

KensAuto · « **Reply #30 on:** August 28, 2016, 10:50:57 PM »

Got the bipod mounted and took her for a spin:

KensAuto · « **Reply #31 on:** August 28, 2016, 10:51:17 PM »

...and it didn't want to run......missing on a few cylinders. It would hit on the first round, then lightly punch the next primer. I tore it down and found the buffer was smacking the buffer retainer. It's not supposed to even touch the retainer unless the upper is removed, because it's only function is to hold the spring/buffer in place during teardown. I believe the lower was not milled correctly, or the bcg is not far enough back, but not sure. I've read where it can cause bolt bounce if the buffer doesn't keep pressure on the bolt at the end of travel, which will cause a light pin strike.
I decided to just mill an offset buffer retainer pin from a grade5 1/4" bolt. The hardest part was drilling out the inside to except a spring.

...buffer slightly dinged after only 20 rounds:

..bent buffer retainer:

...offset retainer:

KensAuto · « **Reply #32 on:** August 28, 2016, 10:56:37 PM »

Now the buffer sticks out quite a bit, and I was able to screw the buffer tube in farther than before (hopefully that will keep the bcg from contacting the threads shown in the one pic).

One of the trigger pins also walked out and the gun did a multi burst, which kinda freaked me out. hopefully next time it will go better, especially when I get the Timney trigger installed.

stlaser · « **Reply #33 on:** August 28, 2016, 11:11:43 PM »

So when you say you don't think the lower was milled correctly you believe the buffer retaining pin position was incorrect?

I will reiterate this & maybe I'm way off but "all" of my problems rose from the system being over gassed.

http://heavybuffers.com/ar10carbine.html I spoke with this guy when building mine & used his parts from the start. He came highly recommended. I would give him a call & tell him what's going on, pick his brain.

KensAuto · « **Reply #34 on:** August 28, 2016, 11:21:22 PM »

Yeah. But you know my experience level with these.....just been reading a bunch and I guess it does happen from time to time.

stlaser · « **Reply #35 on:** August 28, 2016, 11:23:25 PM »

I just updated my prior post Ken.

Also my pins are very tight & the upper & lower were a matched set from the machine shop.

Here's an offer too, i could tear down one of mine tomorrow & get you location measurements if needed?

KensAuto · « **Reply #36 on:** August 28, 2016, 11:28:41 PM »

Gotcha. I did take care of a significant issue....that buffer should never touch the pin whether overgassed or not... just don't know if it was the only/right issue. I think I need to shoot it again before asking for help.

stlaser · « **Reply #37 on:** August 28, 2016, 11:32:17 PM »

Copy, let me know if you need any measurements. Wouldn't take me long, I know it's not the kind of offer you're accustomed to :o but however I can help....... ;D

Ain't ar-10 builds fun?!?

KensAuto · « **Reply #38 on:** August 28, 2016, 11:45:34 PM »

Gun measurements right? lol

You know, I was quite happy with the grouping on this gun at 100, when it actually went bang a few times.
I guess that's what I get for trying to do something myself and mismatching parts. :(

stlaser · « **Reply #39 on:** August 29, 2016, 12:01:47 AM »

Don't be trying to sidetrack the hippy here, I was talking about the measurements for the AR-10 ;D

JR · « **Reply #40 on:** August 29, 2016, 01:13:15 AM »

Must resist looking at these builds. I do not need an AR10, repeat, I DO NOT NEED AN AR10.

From my reading many of the AR10s are diff from other in specs. Not Mil-spec like a 556 AR. I would look at the BCG since that would keep the buffer off the pin.

stlaser · « **Reply #41 on:** August 29, 2016, 08:59:07 AM »

Quote from: JR on August 29, 2016, 01:13:15 AM

Must resist looking at these builds. I do not need an AR10, repeat, I DO NOT NEED AN AR10.

From my reading many of the AR10s are diff from other in specs. Not Mil-spec like a 556 AR. I would look at the BCG since that would keep the buffer off the pin.

JR, but everyone needs an ar-10..... ;)

& you may be on to something, if that bcg was ever so much shorter then the same thing could happen.

KensAuto · « **Reply #42 on:** August 29, 2016, 10:14:16 AM »

Agree^^^ but the fact that it was taking out threads from going too far rearwards also tells me there is/was an issue with the extension. It's also hard to find a set of measurements for these, because, like JR said, they're not all the same.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #43 on:** August 29, 2016, 08:14:21 PM »

Quote from: JR on August 29, 2016, 01:13:15 AM

Must resist looking at these builds. I do not need an AR10, repeat, I DO NOT NEED AN AR10.

From my reading many of the AR10s are diff from other in specs. Not Mil-spec like a 556 AR. I would look at the BCG since that would keep the buffer off the pin.

I was feeling the pull...Right up until the moment I laid my hands on my Sig-Sauer 716!!!

stlaser · « **Reply #44 on:** August 29, 2016, 08:55:10 PM »

I admit, buying a ruger was ALOT easier & more cost efficient than building my ar-10......

KensAuto · « **Reply #45 on:** August 29, 2016, 11:55:23 PM »

Hey Shawn, can you tell me if your bcg is flush with the back of the upper. Mine is actually recessed. I checked a couple of my ar 15s and they are about perfectly flush. Hmm...might not be the lower after all.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #46 on:** August 30, 2016, 12:16:47 AM »

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #47 on:** August 30, 2016, 12:19:10 AM »

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

stlaser · « **Reply #48 on:** August 30, 2016, 12:45:42 AM »

Ken, I'll text you a couple pics first thing in morning. Headed out to DIA to get my wife in a min. Long story short, bcg is flush with back of upper. The buffer sticks out or towards the barrel (when upper is off) around a 1/16 from the barrel side of the lower buffer tube mount. This was on my Ruger 762 as it was easiest to get to & check (my ar-10) was built off the same upper & lower receiver, came from same machine shop that makes them for ruger. So it "should" be the same.....

KensAuto · « **Reply #49 on:** August 30, 2016, 09:49:35 AM »

Thanks guys, guess I'm calling those guys today, maybe after I practice some yoga.
Charles, is your buffer getting chewed up a little in that pic...kinda hard to tell from this angle.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk