Author Topic: Rusted rocker panels (Read 6796 times)

longball · « **on:** July 06, 2016, 01:03:43 PM »

It seems as though you men know a lot about body work so I would like to trouble you for some advice. My 2004 LB7 and I migrated to down south from Missouri, where's there's a lot of road salt. Naturally, my rocker panels are starting to rust through on both sides. I took it to a body shop (I have zero knowledge of body work) last week and got some bad news. $1,100-1,200 to patch the panels, spray with rust converter, and hope for the best or $4,500-5,000 to replace both complete rocker panels and fix it right. It's been a great truck but with 183,000 miles I can't convince myself to spend the $5k, especially since we are talking about having kids and it is an extended cab. So, I think what I'll have to do is let them patch the spots that need it and put rust converter everywhere they can reach. They said in the past they've had decent success with drilling some small holes and spraying converter inside the panel with a fog tip they made. What do y'all think? Is there another option I'm not considering that I should look into? Like I said, I know nothing about body work.

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KensAuto · « **Reply #1 on:** July 06, 2016, 02:16:08 PM »

No expert here, but some input until one shows up:
You really don't know how bad it is until you break into it, ie, start cutting it open, and once you do that, there's really no turning back. That being said, if they think they can at least stop it's progress and get it sealed up against further moisture intrusion, then that might be a decent way to go until you can afford to do it right.

From what little experience I have had with rust, it's usually been 10 times worse than what's on the surface...there's a reason they call it cancer.

longball · « **Reply #2 on:** July 06, 2016, 02:50:56 PM »

It definitely is a cancer. The cost of the repair only bothers me because of its relation to the remaining value of the truck and because I've been looking to upgrade to a 4 door for some time now. If I could find a low mileage LBZ in good condition that wasn't $35k it would be someone else's problem. Thank you for your input sir.

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 06, 2016, 10:13:34 PM »

Here's what you do:

Cut the rocker panels out completely, leave nothing and grind all the welds flush. Insert a piece of box steel tubing, say .125" wall cut to fit. Weld that in there and have an instant fix, a rock rail, and a place to jack the vehicle up. Spray the outside with whatever you want and the inside with some of that amber body coating stuff. Pester me enough and I'll come up with a name. You can cut and grind it out for free. You can purchase the steel for probably less than $75.

Any welder can stitch it in there for you and you have a cool permanent repair!

longball · « **Reply #4 on:** July 07, 2016, 01:01:42 PM »

I'd never considered something like that. A quick Google search revealed it to be fairly popular with the jeep fellas. I'll keep searching and see if I can find a picture of that on a GM truck. I suppose it'd also be pretty simple to incorporate some steps.

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 07, 2016, 07:26:26 PM »

Quote from: longball on July 07, 2016, 01:01:42 PM

I'd never considered something like that. A quick Google search revealed it to be fairly popular with the jeep fellas. I'll keep searching and see if I can find a picture of that on a GM truck. I suppose it'd also be pretty simple to incorporate some steps.

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Take a photo of your truck, then print it

Draw in the 3" X 3" or maybe a 2" X 4" steel bar and see what you think

stlaser · « **Reply #6 on:** July 07, 2016, 08:01:41 PM »

A lot of EB's were done this way.....

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 08, 2016, 04:13:24 PM »

Hell I like he idea of that too. Now to buy a welder and a plasma cutter

Raising boys into RealMen!!

longball · « **Reply #8 on:** July 10, 2016, 10:05:25 AM »

I've been researching this a little more and I like the looks of something like this.

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Sammconn · « **Reply #9 on:** July 10, 2016, 12:25:20 PM »

I can guarantee that an option like this will be economical enough to pay for the tools to do it and be between he two prices you mentioned.
There are a lot of different styles, all including a few hundred bucks of metal and time.
I do like that as well.

BobbyB · « **Reply #10 on:** July 10, 2016, 04:59:03 PM »

Quote from: longball on July 10, 2016, 10:05:25 AM

I've been researching this a little more and I like the looks of something like this.

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That's what I want mine to look like when I eventually buy the steel and have my friend weld it up.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 13, 2016, 09:50:43 AM »

Quote from: BobbyB on July 10, 2016, 04:59:03 PM

Quote from: longball on July 10, 2016, 10:05:25 AM
I've been researching this a little more and I like the looks of something like this.

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That's what I want mine to look like when I eventually buy the steel and have my friend weld it up.

Well, when you finally come down here, you and I can fab that up for ya'

BobbyB · « **Reply #12 on:** July 13, 2016, 10:01:54 AM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on July 13, 2016, 09:50:43 AM

Well, when you finally come down here, you and I can fab that up for ya'

Probably be faster and cheaper for me to knock it out up here. I'll have to arrange shop time at my sister and brother in law's shop.

longball · « **Reply #13 on:** July 24, 2016, 10:50:37 PM »

Quote from: Sammconn on July 10, 2016, 12:25:20 PM

I can guarantee that an option like this will be economical enough to pay for the tools to do it and be between he two prices you mentioned.
There are a lot of different styles, all including a few hundred bucks of metal and time.
I do like that as well.

What kind of tools would I need? I wasn't kidding when I said I don't have a clue where to start on a project like this. Heck, I don't even know where the rocker panel stops and the rest of the body begins.

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Bear9350 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 25, 2016, 07:59:39 AM »

Biggest ticket item would be a welder. You wouldn't need anything to large but I wouldn't opt for the cheapest one you can find either. Other than that you would probably only really need a grinder. You can get some cut-off wheels for it and use it to cut steel as well as use the normal grinding wheels for grinding. I'm assuming you already have a drill to punch any mounting holes etc.. you might need.

Bending the tubing would be the difficult part. Cheapest option would be cutting a couple angles instead of a nice sweeping radius. You could use the cut off wheel on the grinder to make slices in the back of the tube and bend the front around and weld closed. Or you might be able to find a shop locally that would be willing to bend them up for you.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 25, 2016, 09:55:36 AM »

To keep the cost minimal, I'd skip on the tubing part and just do a section of rectangular steel tubing, say 2" X 3" X .125" wall would work.

use a cutoff wheel on a grinder or a cut off tool to cut the steel away as close to the seam as you can get.

Next you'll have to inspect what you have there when the rocker has been removed

Likely you'll have a rusted mess, but not to worry. Using a wire cup tool, clean the rust down to steel or work the holes out to better metal.

Use goggles and a mask for all this

If it is mostly good, spray it with a couple coats of a weld through zinc primer

Next cut and shape the rectangle tubing into the form you desire. Use clamps and floor jacks and your overweight uncle (Joke there...no offence intended...) to hold that thing in place then apply sparkage in a skip-weld fashion until most of your sleeve or skin has burned away.

At this point you'll either be:
1. Finished welding
or
2. In the emergency room.

In either case do what you have to do to recover or finish the project

Best of luck, and if you tackle this, being a beginner, we all would appreciate pics of the progress and a good "Lessons-learned" write-up. If it's good enough, I'll use it again for the next "Rocker-Man"

If it's bad, we all will use it to ridicule you on a daily basis

Note: Not every one of my comments is true...Use deductive reasoning to ascertain the truth in this

Good Luck, and if not

call 911 ;)

Sammconn · « **Reply #16 on:** July 25, 2016, 10:18:40 AM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on July 25, 2016, 09:55:36 AM

To keep the cost minimal, I'd skip on the tubing part and just do a section of rectangular steel tubing, say 2" X 3" X .125" wall would work.

use a cutoff wheel on a grinder or a cut off tool to cut the steel away as close to the seam as you can get.

Next you'll have to inspect what you have there when the rocker has been removed

Likely you'll have a rusted mess, but not to worry. Using a wire cup tool, clean the rust down to steel or work the holes out to better metal.

Use goggles and a mask for all this

If it is mostly good, spray it with a couple coats of a weld through zinc primer

Next cut and shape the rectangle tubing into the form you desire. Use clamps and floor jacks and your overweight uncle (Joke there...no offence intended...) to hold that thing in place then apply sparkage in a skip-weld fashion until most of your sleeve or skin has burned away.

At this point you'll either be:
1. Finished welding
or
2. In the emergency room.

In either case do what you have to do to recover or finish the project

Best of luck, and if you tackle this, being a beginner, we all would appreciate pics of the progress and a good "Lessons-learned" write-up. If it's good enough, I'll use it again for the next "Rocker-Man"

If it's bad, we all will use it to ridicule you on a daily basis

Note: Not every one of my comments is true...Use deductive reasoning to ascertain the truth in this

Good Luck, and if not

call 911 ;)

I just about spit my coffee out through my nose.!

Like Don said, cutoff wheel on a grinder will get you in.
Like Bear said, get the 'best' welder you can afford.
You don't necessarily need a 212, but if it's in budget go for it.
I've been running a no name mig for years I bought cheap at princess auto.
It is a 230 unit that can weld at 150/180 amps, so it's not a baby either.
Then take your time and figure out the welds on similar metals to on the truck.
Would hate to see a melt through and subsequent mess on the truck.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #17 on:** July 25, 2016, 11:12:24 AM »

my two cents here. When working with cutoff wheels wear heavy gloves and a face shield. They can fragment at the most inopportune times and bits coming off at 10,000 rpm can be detrimental to your health.

I might take an alternative approach to the weld through primer and just clean everything, weld it and then apply POR15, which is a paint over rust coating.

If hte metal you are welding is thin, you might consider using gas sheilding and solid core wire. Much prettier weld on thin material.

And remember. Do what I do if you are working without adult assistance or in remote wooded areas. Give your phone to your small child to be able to call 911 in case you are unconscious.. "honey, if daddy falls out of that tree with the chainsaw, call 911 for me, ok?"

Flyin6 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 26, 2016, 10:12:59 AM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 25, 2016, 11:12:24 AM

my two cents here. When working with cutoff wheels wear heavy gloves and a face shield. They can fragment at the most inopportune times and bits coming off at 10,000 rpm can be detrimental to your health.

I might take an alternative approach to the weld through primer and just clean everything, weld it and then apply POR15, which is a paint over rust coating.

If hte metal you are welding is thin, you might consider using gas sheilding and solid core wire. Much prettier weld on thin material.

And remember. Do what I do if you are working without adult assistance or in remote wooded areas. Give your phone to your small child to be able to call 911 in case you are unconscious.. "honey, if daddy falls out of that tree with the chainsaw, call 911 for me, ok?"

RN, on the POR thing, good stuff, agreed
But
Once he covers up what will be an inside corner, with a piece of steel, he will not be able to get anything in there except for salt spray from the highway department. I'd still say weld through zinc primer, then something like that Amber cosomoline like spray afterward...

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #19 on:** July 26, 2016, 10:17:11 AM »

agreed.

longball · « **Reply #20 on:** July 30, 2016, 08:23:34 AM »

https://youtu.be/0oNpJ6_mfFo

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #21 on:** July 30, 2016, 10:07:03 AM »

Nice find.

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 30, 2016, 11:49:03 AM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 30, 2016, 10:07:03 AM

Nice find.

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I'd still say with something as old and as utilitarian as a heep, just weld in a piece of rectangle steel tubing.

BobbyB · « **Reply #23 on:** July 30, 2016, 04:11:28 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on July 30, 2016, 11:49:03 AM

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 30, 2016, 10:07:03 AM
Nice find.

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I'd still say with something as old and as utilitarian as a heep, just weld in a piece of rectangle steel tubing.

I'm already in talks with my buddy to accomplish this before winter, along with unibody reinforcements welded in.

stlaser · « **Reply #24 on:** July 30, 2016, 06:09:13 PM »

Say it ain't so! The XJ is gunna get some love after all..... ;D

BobbyB · « **Reply #25 on:** July 30, 2016, 11:38:49 PM »

Quote from: stlaser on July 30, 2016, 06:09:13 PM

Say it ain't so! The XJ is gunna get some love after all..... ;D

Hey I drove XJ to the Post Office once and took her on a 12 mile jaunt to explore the area in advance of future ruck operations. I also price checked some new lift gate supports, as well started to think about removing the interior so as to completely fix as much of the rust as possible before winter.

longball · « **Reply #26 on:** July 31, 2016, 10:13:36 AM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on July 25, 2016, 09:55:36 AM

To keep the cost minimal, I'd skip on the tubing part and just do a section of rectangular steel tubing, say 2" X 3" X .125" wall would work.

use a cutoff wheel on a grinder or a cut off tool to cut the steel away as close to the seam as you can get.

Next you'll have to inspect what you have there when the rocker has been removed

Likely you'll have a rusted mess, but not to worry. Using a wire cup tool, clean the rust down to steel or work the holes out to better metal.

Use goggles and a mask for all this

If it is mostly good, spray it with a couple coats of a weld through zinc primer

Next cut and shape the rectangle tubing into the form you desire. Use clamps and floor jacks and your overweight uncle (Joke there...no offence intended...) to hold that thing in place then apply sparkage in a skip-weld fashion until most of your sleeve or skin has burned away.

At this point you'll either be:
1. Finished welding
or
2. In the emergency room.

In either case do what you have to do to recover or finish the project

Best of luck, and if you tackle this, being a beginner, we all would appreciate pics of the progress and a good "Lessons-learned" write-up. If it's good enough, I'll use it again for the next "Rocker-Man"

If it's bad, we all will use it to ridicule you on a daily basis

Note: Not every one of my comments is true...Use deductive reasoning to ascertain the truth in this

Good Luck, and if not

call 911 ;)

You really know how to give a guy the warm fuzzies about a project. ;-) I'm still exploring options and trying to learn more about this. I cannot overstate my ignorance of this subject. If I were to start this project now I would do the cutting, undercoatings, and finishing, but outsource the welding. Although I would like to learn to weld, I don't know that this project is the place I should start. I'm wondering now if the rocker should be cut below the level of the door, so the boxed steel sticks out past the door, or if it should be tucked in behind the door. I suppose it may depend on how bad the rust is when I get in there.

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #27 on:** July 31, 2016, 10:38:48 AM »

I'd go 2x8 so you get a nice running board look. Or flush but then add a tube. You can always cut off more but adding it back after you cut is a bit more challenging.

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longball · « **Reply #28 on:** July 31, 2016, 01:28:42 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 31, 2016, 10:38:48 AM

I'd go 2x8 so you get a nice running board look. Or flush but then add a tube. You can always cut off more but adding it back after you cut is a bit more challenging.

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I think that is where I'm leaning. Since I removed the running boards that were on it I like the idea of having protection from rock chips that 2x8 would offer.

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #29 on:** July 31, 2016, 11:16:41 PM »

I am sold

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