REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Everything Trailer, Camper, or RV related => Topic started by: Flyin6 on October 05, 2019, 11:33:58 AM
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Let's get started on a brand new project. Last year I built my 2002 Suburban 2500 into an overlander with some tactical aspects. I created it with a roof top tent to be able to haul my boys and I around on various trips. Unfortunately, because of ongoing endless build problems, mostly electrical, I did not make the departure gate for that trip. We were all to sleep either in the back of the Burb or in the rooftop tent.
Back at the start of that project, I envisioned completing that trip somewhat smarter about what we needed and incorporate those lessons into a overland trailer created from a surplus Army 1011 HMMV trailer. Initially, I was just thinking I'd fit it out with water, more stuff and move the roof top tent to it and drive on. But while researching that I began to notice the teardrop type campers that people were building specifically for off roading. That peaked my interest. You know, blank sheet of paper sort of thing...Just build everything I ever wanted into a smaller camper and mount that on a robust frame and suspension with some big truck style off road tires.
Back then I stumbled across a rather brilliant young engineer also hailing from Kentucky who built a really cool overland camper and published vids and even plans of his excellent work and design. Link below:
https://www.facebook.com/Shawneehillswoodworking/
So, I watched his vids, then ordered the plans which I downloaded and studied. Then I got started on Sketchup on some designs based around the basic size and concept of Wes's design and came up with this initial concept shown below
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That was only a starting point. I liked the shape, but the idea of walking around back to get to the vittles was not making it with me. That's when I shook up the design to one that had a cooking area and pantry built into the drivers side that just flips open. In its initial incarnation, it looked like this:
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Taking that design, I stretched it 16", designed in an integral water tank, and added some features that yielded useable interior space. The camper will have a queen size bunk that converts into a sofa in 30 seconds and even with it stretched out will still afford some floor space to stand, sit or if a potty is in there, talk to a man about a horse!
I think I'll utilize The Wes designed outside foldable shower just because it is one trick and great design. Notice that I added a box to the front of my design that on the drivers side will house a cooler/frig, and a 2.5K generator on the other side. In the middle will be two 6VDC batteries recharged by either the generator or a solar panel. The roof will raise to give plenty of standing room and even open up a spot for an additional person to crash. The roof opening mechanism will differ from the one in the Wes design to be simpler and more robust. Not digging on the Wes design at all, I just want mine a bit more robust.
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That is quite the undertaking! Checkout wander the west they have several rebuild and a handful of from scratch builds. All kinds of camper info. And of course expedition overland.
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I'll take a look...
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Once you start moving things around or adding things check wheel weights so you don’t get too heavy on one side and tongue weight also.
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Just gonna leave this here, there is a whole forum dedicated to these things full of great information
This guy seems to be about as detailed as needed and full of knowledge
7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=39727&share_tid=65498&url=http%3A%2F%2Ftnttt%2Ecom%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D65498&share_type=t&link_source=app
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Once you start moving things around or adding things check wheel weights so you don’t get too heavy on one side and tongue weight also.
Roger that.
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So with the decision made to build this thing, I started back in September with moving things around in my 25 X 25 woodshop to optimize available space while still being able to get at various tools and work stations.
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Then I built this table with wheels to build the thing on and be able to motor it around as necessary. I used some notching and a lot of glue to ensure the thing was rigid and strong...It is!
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Troop helped with the tenon joints!
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The table will carry the bulk of the approximately 1,000 pounds while these two saw horses got a layer of my farm's eastern cedar atop to flush them out and provide a smooth sacrificial surface
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Then I started tool collecting
I added a new woodworker vise to hold things steady on the new work bench
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Knowing I was going to have to make tons of angular precision cuts on sheet goods, I picked up this Makita track saw with a 55" track. After having used it for some time now, I can report it has done a great job on making long, perfectly straight cuts at 90, 22.5, and 45 degrees.
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After checking over the field of track saws, I purchased the Makita because in addition of having everything I wanted, it had something no one else I looked at had, this little slide that locked the saw into the track, so you could cut on a side or even upside down if you so desired
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Knowing I was going to have to but join sheet goods, I decided early on that I was going to use a spline to accurately locate the panels and to additionally add strength with the additional glue surface.
To cut the groove, I purchased a plate joiner which would normally be used to cut slots for biscuits, but if you just drag it along, it cuts a pretty quick 5/32" groove which is just asking for a piece of red oak and some glue
Speaking of glue, after researching, I settled on the gorilla wood glue because of its enormous strength, complete water proof finish, and the rapid early bond and finally the quick dry time.
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With the blade protruding outward as far as I can get it, I was able to accomodate a 1 1/4" X 5/32" spline and still have a little room for glue. Having already used it, I can say it provided for super tight and accurate joinery.
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I added another table surface or two as I knew I'd have one project clamped up and drying while I was fabricating another. Flat space is always welcomed!
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And I did some of that hastily so that I could easily undue it after the camper build if I wanted to add a new tool in there later on.
So, if the truth be known I have been building the camper for awhile now, but just held off on posting it, hoping to first be able to report the Burb was completed, so I didn't have one project hanging while another was in full swing. But, I guess I really wanted to get the box completed well before Christmas so i could spend the following 5-6 months building the steel parts and fitting the thing out. In any event it is currently something you can climb into and walk around in.
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I am not fond of pop up trailers. The roof gets heavy. Canvas can leak. It gets torn. Mice eat holes in it. How much taller would it be to make the roof high enough to walk around in?
If it must be a pop up maybe consider hard sides rather than canvas.
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Glad to hear about the track saw. I have that same saw in my “saved for later” on Amazon.
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Chief, I guess I’m not following completely... is the end goal to put this in an 1101? Or use an axle from an 1101?
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That track saw is great. I’ve had mine for at least 5 years
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Don: "So, if the truth be known I have been building the camper for awhile now....In any event it is currently something you can climb into and walk around in."
Uh, so where's the pics?
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Typical democrat move, hey look over here forget about the suburban build..... :evil:
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I am not fond of pop up trailers. The roof gets heavy. Canvas can leak. It gets torn. Mice eat holes in it. How much taller would it be to make the roof high enough to walk around in?
If it must be a pop up maybe consider hard sides rather than canvas.
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Jon, its about weight, CG on off camber, and did I mention weight.
I'm going with the poly canvas and roll with it. If it gets dinged up, I'll just repair.
And, a bit too late in the build process for any changes that big, but thanks just the same!
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Don: "So, if the truth be known I have been building the camper for awhile now....In any event it is currently something you can climb into and walk around in."
Uh, so where's the pics?
They're comin' Kenneth
Patience...Patience ma friend!
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Chief, I guess I’m not following completely... is the end goal to put this in an 1101? Or use an axle from an 1101?
T- Not going into a 1011. Its a stand alone will have its own steel frame and independent high clearance trailing arm suspension.
I was just eluding to where this started in my mind a year or so ago. To build out a 1011 and roll with that. But that size limits me somewhat, so I just went blank sheet of paper.
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So the actual camper build started here with 12 fresh sheets of 3/4 ABX plywood from Menards
This was the best material for the money I found anywhere...And they loaded it for me!
Scha-weet :grin:
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You can see that I have been berry, berry, busy cipherin'
And let me tell ya, piluts do a lot of cipherin
Word around these parts is that only dem engineers cipher any more than piluts!
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So day one was a slow go with lots of measuring, marking and cutting.
The track saw started to feel familiar after the day was done.
Here are the three pieces which later formed the floor
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And then the front section of the sides were cut minus the door and window cutouts. I didn't get the door and windows until about a week after cutting these, so I wanted to wait to be sure I didn't relegate some sheet goods to the burn pile!
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I ripped pieces of red oak down to just under 1/4" then planed them until I had them just under 5/32".
These are the splines used to but join adjacent sheets of plywood
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So employing the plate joiner improperly, I abused it in the making of the long slots cut into the ends of the ply
The test piece shows how well the pieces fit together afterward
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Now somewhere in here I started spending days and nights at the children's hospital watching yet another MRSA infection in my youngest. But in true ranger tradition, he attacked this superior force and defeated it, allowing me to drag our fatigued buttoxes back home to sleep it off for a day
But back to it, here is the very first glue/spline joint going together.
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I scabbed over it with a 5" wide section of ply because I could. The walls and floor will receive a layer of 3/4" foam board, so a piece of ply won't take up any more space.
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Don, at heart you’re a wood guy. Wood guys start these builds with wood first, steel guys would start with the steel frame and suspension etc then build out the wood on top of that. In my mind (steel guy speak here) it is easier to keep the wood square etc after having a steel frame built. Probably makes no difference just how my brain works.
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Here is most of the floor assembled together. The gorilla glue dries faster than the titebond I have used for years. Even the scabbed sections are glued and screwed.
Frankly, later on, I may just remove all the screws as they are really not needed.
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Don, at heart you’re a wood guy. Wood guys start these builds with wood first, steel guys would start with the steel frame and suspension etc then build out the wood on top of that. In my mind (steel guy speak here) it is easier to keep the wood square etc after having a steel frame built. Probably makes no difference just how my brain works.
Copy that, ghost rider!
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Showing that cool track saw at an angle held in place with that little tab thing-ah-ma-giggy
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I really like that saw. Especially not having a table saw and hating cutting long straight lines with my circular saw.
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Chief, I guess I’m not following completely... is the end goal to put this in an 1101? Or use an axle from an 1101?
T- Not going into a 1011. Its a stand alone will have its own steel frame and independent high clearance trailing arm suspension.
I was just eluding to where this started in my mind a year or so ago. To build out a 1011 and roll with that. But that size limits me somewhat, so I just went blank sheet of paper.
Ok this makes sense! Thanks for watering down the mud so I can see through it! Good call on blank slate. My brother finished his truck camper about two months ago, he started from nothing as well! Good luck and stay positive!
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This all adds up with the plywood question a couple weeks back. Good call on the gorilla glue, its great.
Yep, most would have built the frame first, must be a wood guy :cheesy:
I agree on not using the 1011, it is wide and tall. They do tow good though and have lots of room :beercheers:
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Typical democrat move, hey look over here forget about the suburban build..... :evil:
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Forgot to show this...The 22.5 degree cut made in a 72" edge of the 3/4" for the front piece
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Front face going on, held with a handy 90 degree temporary brace
All panel sections are screwed together with #8 X 2" on 8" centers and glued as well. So far the joints are proving to be rock solid
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The sides were fitted with the windows and a door, marked, then cut out before assembly
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Then assembled to the floor and front panels
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Still way early in the assembly process, but its beginning to show its size
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So lets discuss weather proofing a little
For the inside, I think just some deck type water proofer stuff like Thompsons or similar may be plenty. Much the same as the entrance to one's house, the inside should see very little in the way of water/rain and snow. Plus the walls will be covered with foam insulation board, then with some interior cladding/panel, possibly mapel sheeting which would be spar varnished
But the outside will have to fend off the elements.
I have pretty much settled on spraying tintable Raptor Liner onto the underside and at least 30" up the side as a final outer coat, but I need to start with some base coat.
Right now I am thinking I prime the entire wood surface with Kilz or similar primer, then top coat that with a quality garage floor epoxy, probably in gray. Now stopping right there would constitute a pretty good moisture barrier and fend off scratches as well, so could I possibly stop right there for some surfaces? And would garage floor epoxy be UV resistant enough to hold up under years of sun?
Anyway, I will top coat over that in part with the Raptor coating, but should I coat the whole thing in Raptor? Could I possibly get away with the primer/epoxy two coat system?
Thoughts?
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I would use a polyurethane based clear coat for the sealer. Will remain flexible and soak in really well and EASY to spray.
Just me, but I would gusset the 90* joints, glued and screwed or not. That's in theme with the plate on the but joints and would coast no room at all.
I would fiberglass coat the outside with a light cloth for the best finish and undercoating the bottom. Otherwise the wood grain will come through.
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I wouldn’t use garage floor epoxy for wood, find a suitable finish for wood. I like the raptor liner idea
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hughes_H-4_Hercules
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Can't believe they cut out those windows and doors on it.
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I put the rustoleum garage floor paint down and the 4 wheelers and SxS are parked in there regularly. It hasn't held up and I wouldn't recommend it. I used the etching that came with it. It was not new concrete.
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I would use a polyurethane based clear coat for the sealer. Will remain flexible and soak in really well and EASY to spray.
Just me, but I would gusset the 90* joints, glued and screwed or not. That's in theme with the plate on the but joints and would coast no room at all.
I would fiberglass coat the outside with a light cloth for the best finish and undercoating the bottom. Otherwise the wood grain will come through.
It already has gussets, just not shown yet, you'll see
And polyurethane, hadn't thought of that. So you're suggesting poly in lieu of kilz as the base/primer coat?
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I do like Kilz for wood, but thinking long term it may be better on the outside. I use poly for wood that shows and it works well.
If you glass the outside I would not seal the wood, the resin will do that. If you use resin, go epoxy and not poly. Epoxy remains flexible and doesn't crack like poly does.
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Getting a little out in front of myself here, but I will fill all voids and screw holes with bondo, then sand it all smooth. I was planning on a double coat of Kilz, then allow that to dry.
I would go over that with an orbital sander using 150 grit, then go over with another coat of kilz. I may shoot an good sealer paint over that without sanding or maybe allow to dry and sand again. Not sure, but I want to avoid any wood grain showing up. I'd like the thing to be partially glossy which will require a pretty flat panel, and half Raptor in the same color as the Suburban, but again, undecided on that at the moment.
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Next I cut in the door. I purchased a quality unit measuring 26" X 36" which was the largest I found for a teardrop type camper
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I stuck a small 12" X 24" window in the drivers side also
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This panel is about ready to get attached
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At this point I started adding in 1" X 3/4"gussets held in place with screws until the glue dries. THose really stiffened the thing up
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And the other side is attached
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Are the wheel wells going to be metal of some type?
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Next to me up here is a wells cargo trailer facility, they will sell replacement material for say my enclosed trailer in rolls, why not cover you exterior like thAt or source the flat Fiberglas panels they use for these large RVs running around.
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Are the wheel wells going to be metal of some type?
You will see in tonight's installment my friend!
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Next to me up here is a wells cargo trailer facility, they will sell replacement material for say my enclosed trailer in rolls, why not cover you exterior like thAt or source the flat Fiberglas panels they use for these large RVs running around.
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I just really like working with wood, and after coating it with several layers, it is really a composite panel anyway.
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Lets answer JR's question right now
The wheel wells are also made from the same 3/4" ABX as the rest of the body. I plan for the entire body to be a monocoque construction with internal stiffeners and bracing that would allow the box to be a stand alone unit. Starting with that strength, bolting it onto a stiff steel frame should allow for a long leak free life (I hope!)
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Here both sides are boxed in. There was a wee bit of cutting all those angles to make for large flat glueing surfaces
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Next up I added the front angle plate that sweeps back at a 45 degree angle for one foot of lateral distance
I opted to add in a gusset to the long seam to allow for robust strength, not the usual kind of girly-man strength ;-))
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I cut the top and bottom panels on a 22.5 degree miter that matched up so well, I almost just left it in glue alone...but didn't
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Just keep the rangers away with the Sawzall!
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That design almost screams for a tilt roof panel.
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Sawzall? I was thinking heating element or lighter lol.
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I have mixed feelings about the raptor liner. Not sure how good it would stay stuck on primered, sealed, finely sanded wood. It would suck to have that stuff start peeling off in sheets (like it is on my aluminum ranger bed).
...plus you need to spray clear, or paint on it to keep it from fading (like my bumper, and I think yours also).
I'd fiberglass the whole thing, externally for sure. Maybe aluminum sheeting for the roof.
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I have mixed feelings about the raptor liner. Not sure how good it would stay stuck on primered, sealed, finely sanded wood. It would suck to have that stuff start peeling off in sheets (like it is on my aluminum ranger bed).
...plus you need to spray clear, or paint on it to keep it from fading (like my bumper, and I think yours also).
I'd fiberglass the whole thing, externally for sure. Maybe aluminum sheeting for the roof.
Ken, did you look at the one I used for a basic design to modify? Wes first covered the plywood with fiberglass resin, and a thin sheet of frabric, then primed over that then painted it with Tractor Supply Company tractor paint. He then covered the lower segment with the raptor and after seasons and many overland trips it seems to be holding up.
True to what you said, he did start with the poylester resin to seal the wood.
I have another product that you will see in the coming installments that is a two part epoxy made by sherwin-williams that is kick-butt. It is very expensive, but talk about a one and done coating that is as thick as catfish snot, I may go to that. We have several installments to get through before we are there, but when we do get there, I'd like an opinion at that point.
And fellas, the Sawzall is locked up on this one!
And Tex, If you look at the renderings I drew up early on, the thing did have a tilt up roof, which it just may get. Disadvantages is that it limits headroom a little bit. Bennies are less space to heat and cool, simpler design, and stronger than having the whole roof hangin' out in the proverbial, breeze. So ya, the floor's open on that discussion to be sure.
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I would think about a liner above the wheels maybe running back a bit. Built great is good but getting hit with road junk all day on and off road will chisel anything away.
Since it is flat, how about a sheet of ABS contoured to wells and bottom, something like this; /-\___ Just an idea,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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What Sherwin Williams product did ya go with?
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hughes_H-4_Hercules
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Hour away from me and i've never been to see it... driven right past though on the way to the beach many a time.
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What Sherwin Williams product did ya go with?
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A two part epoxy IAW our conversation...
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hughes_H-4_Hercules
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Hour away from me and i've never been to see it... driven right past though on the way to the beach many a time.
It's in Oregon at the Evergreen aviation museum at the moment.
I was given a tour of the plane, well the cockpit and inside the wings. I sat in Howard Hughes captain seat and put my hand on all those throttles, or whatever you call them...
At the time I sat in it, it was the worlds largest aircraft.
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Lets do some more assembly
Next up I added the "wings" or the extension panels to the sides
Just like before I used the joint planer to cut a slot that I glued an oak spline into that aligns and joins the two panels
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Then with an abundance of glue, slid the wing panel into place and clamped it to dry
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I had to create some clamping blocks to grab onto for the right side
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And with that in place, I was able to glue in the right side wing panel
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I mentioned an integral water tank earlier, well, here is the forward bulkhead going in
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That was screwed and glued from all sides and was given a gusset/bracing to the floor panel
After installing that the back slant panel was cut with 45's at either end, then fitted, glued/screwed and installed
This trough that was created is the integral water tank.
Most of these teardrop type overland campers have 20 gallon water tanks, and you may see 30 gallons. This tank will hold 57 gallons allowing for frequent showers if desired.
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Showing the inside of the tank...
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hughes_H-4_Hercules
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Hour away from me and i've never been to see it... driven right past though on the way to the beach many a time.
It's in Oregon at the Evergreen aviation museum at the moment.
I was given a tour of the plane, well the cockpit and inside the wings. I sat in Howard Hughes captain seat and put my hand on all those throttles, or whatever you call them...
At the time I sat in it, it was the worlds largest aircraft.
Evergreen aviation is now closed/out of business. The museum is still there and still has the name on it. There is a member on of this forum that lives 1 mile from that museum.
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To bad its closed. Funny they can't find a real home for it with all that history, just hard to move!
Sat by the Queen Mary for many years when I was down there.
Build looks great, like to see the setup for the axle and frame? (seal it good and put a trolling motor on the back)
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Holy moly, 57 gallons rear of the Axle!! I mean I see most of the camper is front of the axle but dang, that’s 456lbs of water. Then you add your spare swing out bumper mix thing you’ll have back there...that’s a lot of weight back there but, I guess because there’s only two feet behind the axle in total
Maybe you need that much weight to balance it neatly!
I look forward to seeing this continue to come together!
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Holy moly, 57 gallons rear of the Axle!! I mean I see most of the camper is front of the axle but dang, that’s 456lbs of water. Then you add your spare swing out bumper mix thing you’ll have back there...that’s a lot of weight back there but, I guess because there’s only two feet behind the axle in total
Maybe you need that much weight to balance it neatly!
I look forward to seeing this continue to come together!
Yea, looking at it as is with all that weight out back, you may think it is rear heavy, but there is a lot of stuff still going to be added. Like 24" compartment in front of the camper along with a steel frame and interior fit out and gas bottle, frig, generator, batteries and other things, all going to be added well forward of the wheels.
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Holy moly, 57 gallons rear of the Axle!! I mean I see most of the camper is front of the axle but dang, that’s 456lbs of water. Then you add your spare swing out bumper mix thing you’ll have back there...that’s a lot of weight back there but, I guess because there’s only two feet behind the axle in total
Maybe you need that much weight to balance it neatly!
I look forward to seeing this continue to come together!
Yea, looking at it as is with all that weight out back, you may think it is rear heavy, but there is a lot of stuff still going to be added. Like 24" compartment in front of the camper along with a steel frame and interior fit out and gas bottle, frig, generator, batteries and other things, all going to be added well forward of the wheels.
Yea this is what I was figuring. It’s amazing how much things forward of the axle add up. Figured this out the hard way on our last 5500 mile trip pulling with a bed load in the taco. Very nice work by the way! Wood is not something I’m very good at.
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Thanks T
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Next I constructed a lip all around the top of the tank to give me something to screw the lid to
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Using drywall mud, I rounded out the corners to help the fiberglass lay in better
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Showing the cubic inches of water I'll have if everything is full. This number does not account for space lost to the gussets and the rounding out of corners
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Then I cut a piece of plywood to use as the lid of the tank
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Then I started the fiberglass work. First the entire inside and the underside of the lid was given a coat of polyester resin and allowed to set up until it was very tacky
The first layer is a very heavy 24 oz layer that is thicker than tent or tarp canvas. I had pre-cut many pieces, so I could proceed quickly
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I was not bashful in the use of the resin. I used well over a gallon on this 50+ gallon tank interior in several applications
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Can you go ahead and finish this tank so all my questions are answered? Thanks, I appreciate it!
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Can you go ahead and finish this tank so all my questions are answered? Thanks, I appreciate it!
It's finished T!
Just haven't posted all of that yet
I know, I'm a bad man...
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I've been down farmside, beating cedar trees into submission for a couple days. Well that and cutting firewood, bush hogging, putting up tree stands (Other menses actually) and generally havin' a purdy gud time!
So, since I didn't do any work on the camper, I can still post pics, because I am daze ahead of what I'm postin'
Next I started adding fittings to the semi completed tank. The large fittings are two drain plugs that will be glued into the bottom of the structure (Obviously). The brass fittings are for the 1/2" pex lines that will feed water to an on demand water pump. and the gray nipple thing is the fill hose attachment bung
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Just before drilling holes I went around and added material over areas I thought might need some strengthening
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Here's the core sample so to speak and the holes in the tank bottom
You can see there is a substantial overlayment of fiberglass
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I marked the hex on the bushing, then chiseled out to fit it to the proper depth into the plywood
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Water fill pipe nipple going in the lid
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And the 1/2" PEX pickup and supply pipe
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Once I worked the resin around everything, I taped the bushing in from the bottom to contain the liquid resin, then poured the cavity full. I topped that with fiberglass cloth and a little more resin
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The outside of the tank lid about to get its "primer" coat of resin
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I feel the full tube is a bit small, that’s a massive amount of tank to fill, most RVs use 1 inch I think
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I feel the full tube is a bit small, that’s a massive amount of tank to fill, most RVs use 1 inch I think
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That tube is 1 1/2" dave
Gets filled with a garden hose...
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That little blue pex tube is 1 1/2?
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That little blue pex tube is 1 1/2?
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no, that is the supply line to the pump...The gray tube on the other side is the fill port
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Copy
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Next I went after suspicious areas and did some reinforcing
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Then after quite a bit of sanding and smoothing with 36 and 80 grit, I laid in some bondo over some spots and areas to provide a good seal
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...Nasty, gooey stuff, I know...
That hardened pretty quickly and was also smoothed out some. I didn't really need a super smooth or regular surface because of the nature of the final coat that was going on next.
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Here, the underside of the lid is scuffed off and smoothed in preparation for the top coat
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And here is what I chose to finish the tank.
After a conversation with Salt-Lake Dave (SLD or just "Slowed" for short) where he had suggested I find a food grade epoxy, my quest landed me at a Sherwin-Williams commercial paint supply.
This stuff is real live epoxy, the old part "A" and "B" stuff that hardens up like woodpecker beaks and is as thick as week old whale snot!
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I specified I needed a food grade coating for use on the insides of water tanks and the gentleman handed me that stuff. It was low to no VOC, which I understood to be one of the earmarks of food grade stuff.
I laid it out on the lid at first to get the feel for the stuff. It is thicker in consistency than paint so you have to work it in to level it and I did not see many instances where it would drip off the edge
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Then I brushed/slopped it onto the actual tank innards:
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This is only the first coat! It looks like a porcelain bath tub when fully coated, and man, it was really COATED!
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You also can sand and recoat in short fashion. The cure time or re-cost time is hours after cure. You could sand and re apply and lay it off flat with a foam roller for a smoother finish.
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The whole business got a second coat, taking out another couple sacrificial paint brushes. Coat number two went on + 24 hours and also allowed to set up over that night. The following day, it was time to fit the lid
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Which is setting up here with its final coat
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But just before installing that, I noticed a couple small pin hole looking openings. I am pretty sure nothing survived all those coatings, but none the less, I went over them with more bondo just to be sure
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You also can sand and recoat in short fashion. The cure time or re-cost time is hours after cure. You could sand and re apply and lay it off flat with a foam roller for a smoother finish.
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Yea, copy
But
Too late, it's already done, as you will read about shortly...
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And so, yea, It got yet another coat of the slimy stuff
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You don't measure this stuff in "mills" of thickness, but in "inches" :-0
Ah, what the hay, I laid it on the top as well, I mean why not?
Oh and by the way, that stuff retails at $186 per gallon!!!!! I used a discount and paid $62 a gallon which was six times better than prudy darn gud!
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And BTW, I have been walking all over the top of that lid which is currently already installed while assembling other things above it. I don't think it is even showing scratches!
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Sounds like you might want to consider glassing and putting that epoxy over the entire exterior!
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Sounds like you might want to consider glassing and putting that epoxy over the entire exterior!
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I am definitely considering doing exactly that
In another configuration it is used to cover surfaces on watercraft and protect against a salt water environment
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Nice stuff but pricey!
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The stuff you have does not like UV light, it will dry and turn chaulky. Unless my knowledge is old. Exterior I would suggest other stuff
What are you using to seal the lid on top?? Rubber gasket, silicone?
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SLD asked the question I have been waiting to see answered.... sealing the two! Will wait for more to see th answer
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SLD asked the question I have been waiting to see answered.... sealing the two! Will wait for more to see th answer
Dont you have your own square d to finish first before bustin dons B@//$ about this version of the (dare i say it) tac t○pp€r..... :popcorn:
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Oh schiff!!! Shots fired!!!! Been a min since I seen Ye Ol Ban
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:popcorn:
:popcorn: :popcorn:
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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SLD asked the question I have been waiting to see answered.... sealing the two! Will wait for more to see th answer
Dont you have your own square d to finish first before bustin dons B@//$ about this version of the (dare i say it) tac t○pp€r..... :popcorn:
I do, but I have been curious what he has in mind and now used to seal the two, from the get go of the water tank build. If I get these hats finished up this morning I’ll probably get the truck back on the road... ie re install transmission and corresponding pieces.
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Get to it slacker
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Get to it slacker
I guess we have to let this slide coming from you Ken. No way we could consider you a slacker knowing how you haul cankles around daily...... :tongue:
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Yep, I got to it alright, and fought my machine all day, just to get 8 hats done. I asked my wife today if she ever gets tired of wasting time, because that’s all this machine made me feel like I was doing today.
Made this as a test, not for a customer. And it worked flawlessly. Customer hats, just about brought out the sledge to solve the frustration with this machine.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191017/76569c95ffdfdd1f5b1ec1f66189f796.jpg)
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Yep, I got to it alright, and fought my machine all day, just to get 8 hats done. I asked my wife today if she ever gets tired of wasting time, because that’s all this machine made me feel like I was doing today.
Made this as a test, not for a customer. And it worked flawlessly. Customer hats, just about brought out the sledge to solve the frustration with this machine.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191017/76569c95ffdfdd1f5b1ec1f66189f796.jpg)
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The stuff you have does not like UV light, it will dry and turn chaulky. Unless my knowledge is old. Exterior I would suggest other stuff
What are you using to seal the lid on top?? Rubber gasket, silicone?
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If I use this on the exterior, it will be only to seal the very bottom, then spray over that with raptor liner
I sealed the lid with a double bead of Gorilla white silicone.
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After installing the top of the water tank, on went the back. It pulled up very nicely, hitting on all sides to the mating structure
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View from the inside at the door
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Then came the stiffener/flush out pieces. I used Eastern cedar, because I cut it off the farm and I just wanted some of it in there, and because bugs just can't stand the smell of cedar. And the wall will get a layer of 3/4" styrofoam then get overlaid with whatever I decide to use as a wall covering, so the boards glued in strategically give me a surface to later screw into to hang things
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And speaking of hanging things, some interior cabinet spaces are structural, purposely designed and placed to add strength and stifen certain areas. This little 5,000 BTU air conditioner will reside in a rear corner below where the roof will mount to provide additional strength
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Picked it up for a mere $129 so, why not. Here is the start of its cabinet:
The cabinet was created from 3/4" Birch plywood left over from another job/project that was donated to me
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The cabinet unit will fit in a corner on a 45 degree angle. Here it is going together, built from more cabinet grade 3/4"
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Fitted with the removable front facia to allow me to access the AC unit should I need to
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Some stiffening added to the back side
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Inner structure
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The thing will attach to the back, a side, and a top panel. Just before adding that top panel, I added some blocking to screw/glue to
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Does it require a fresh air vent?
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It should penetrate the outer wall and the back should be open to the outside and a water drain to the outside as well for condensate
Is that unit have heat as well so you have heat and ac?
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Does it require a fresh air vent?
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Yes
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It should penetrate the outer wall and the back should be open to the outside and a water drain to the outside as well for condensate
Is that unit have heat as well so you have heat and ac?
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It will. That part of the corner will get opened up and be covered with a vented/louvred panel(s). They are actually due to arrive tomorrow.
No heat, just AC
Heater will be a propane catalytic unit mounted on the front wall
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It should penetrate the outer wall and the back should be open to the outside and a water drain to the outside as well for condensate
Is that unit have heat as well so you have heat and ac?
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It will. That part of the corner will get opened up and be covered with a vented/louvred panel(s). They are actually due to arrive tomorrow.
No heat, just AC
Heater will be a propane catalytic unit mounted on the front wall
Have you bought your heater yet? Seems there is a wide variety out there, When brother Was building his 4wheel camper look alike He ended up with the wave 3, but after this season he is considering changing it next year.
He did what your doing, but with aluminum frame and siding, for a tacoMa sized pop up slide in camper. Modeled from the company 4Wheel Campers.
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T, I do have a heater sort of picked out. Going with the one Wes used in his build. He was out in it over the winter on the KAT with temps hovering near zero. He said it stayed toasty warm inside the whole time, and those things are thrifty on gas consumption...Unlike that Suburban!!!!!!!
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Here is the shelf piece that is going in the back.
Several reasons:
Can sleep a kid (Or a grunt if he is a smaller grunt)
Is a storage place
Beefs up the structure back there
The water tank below
Spare tire on the back
Hinge point for the pop up top
Acts as a top for the multiple cabinets all going in there
Serves as a barrier for the top and discourages one from going back there
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Then I cut some of it away and rounded the edges
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Still a decent size
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It attaches to several panels and in several planes
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With taking care I can pre-drill the holes and get a 2" #8 screw in there on 8" centers to provide plenty of strength even without the glue. But after the glue dries, I could actually pull all the screws out, and I have pulled some, but are leaving most of them in place.
Now I have a ceiling to attach the AC enclosure to
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The AC cabinet was cured or dried or whatever that stuff did, so it was time to attach it. Using one of my Japanese coping saws, I cut out for the stiffener and flush out strips
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It will install in this corner:
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Now for some reason that corner coupled with my limited flexibility in some directions conspired to make getting at the screws an act of sino-masochism! Ya, it hurt!
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And yes, I didn't notice that I got the right wing in off flush
And the darned glue is all set up
ERRRRRRR
Gotta figure out what to do. Not a simple rip out and redo. That wood is like it grew that way with that strange expanding glue stuff!
So, I'll just sit on it a bit and decide how to fix that
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any particular logic to why you put the AC in the corner instead of cutting a hole to the exterior and having the unit hang out about 3 inches to clear the drain?
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any particular logic to why you put the AC in the corner instead of cutting a hole to the exterior and having the unit hang out about 3 inches to clear the drain?
Actually, I do have an answer to that
Watching videos of Wess "Wheeling" with an XJ pulling his adventure camper of the same DNA, he was negotiating a section of the KAT. The rut or cut or ditch or whatever it was driving through was deeper than the top of the camper and off camber. The view narrowed to focus on the clearance between the side of the camper and the rocky side of the ground. That clearance got down to an inch or two. Anything sticking out 2"-3" would have been scraping along.
I do actually have some parts of the camper that protrude an inch beyond the sides, but they are "armored" to some extent as you will see in a couple of days.
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:thumb
CM sir
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I was with Tex on that one. Will refrain from further comments until after proof of concept.
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All right then!
Copy: CM
Wilco
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Pressing ever onward, it is time to cut out and place the outdoor kitchen cabinet into the side. It will go here:
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And this stack of confederates will be that cabinet
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I'm keeping it to 8" depth, which is a compromise, as is nearly everything in a limited space build like this one because I do not want to take up interior space if I can help from doing so
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An essential tool for making square corners
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The inside surface remains at 3/4" thickness because this cabinet is actually structural, joining the wheel well area to the top and the side
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All glued up and lookin for a home
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The fit was really nice, pretty tight on all sides and took some tapping to move it in there
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The plan is to allow the box to protrude 1" out of the side, then provide these 45 degree pieces to both make the fitment stronger and to provide a "ricochet" surface should I encounter "wait-a-minute" brush or drag on a vertical surface
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A view if the inside stikin-in part ;-)
Remember that 3/4" of foam insulation, then some interior panel will still flush out the wall, so the "IF" (Invasiveness factor) (double ;-)) ain't soo bad!
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I think I mistakenly mis-spoke earlier when I said the kitchenette shelf/cabinet thing would tie in the wheel well and the top and sides.
It is actually the pantry box/shelf dubisary-thing-ah-ma-jig that does that. To be cut into the side like the box we just saw, it started like this:
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And ended up like this after first smearing that weird gorilla glue between my fingers.
It's all good, I needed some layers of useless skin yanked off so I could nurse some wounds over the next day or so.
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For all that gluing I think gloves are needed with GG. Black fingers look nasty!
Maybe the gussets should be solid wood, might be stronger and easy to find make?
Looks good, how about some overall pics and a glimpse of the frame idea?
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I would like to see a glue stress test.
Butt two ends together with glue only. Than two in a t shape
Than go ahead and take a photo of the aftermath of you breaking the joint please.
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I had an internship at a company that made laminate beams for covered bridges. We were gluing 2x6 and 2x8 lumber together to make very large beams. I would cut the laminated beams up and break the joints in shear using a hydraulic press. Then grade the joint based on how much of the wood failed compared to the glue. Most of the failure was always in the wood and not the glue.
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I think it would be an interesting test, os I'll do it tomorrow
I can tell you that the joints are absolutely solid. There is no deflection anywhere panels are joined. Now with this ongoing reinforcing the overall box is getting stronger by the day. Just a monocoque construction, I would be super surprised if I had any failure anywhere in this structure. I am really taking my time on this one and so far results are good.
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Estimated weight to date? 7,000lb.....
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I cut some sections of cedar wood into right triangle cross section. I then cut that on a 45 so it met flush at the corners. This is the ramp surface to deflect things and additionally add to the total gluing surface holding the cabinet in place. Look carefully and you can see the glue expanding into the crevices
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Estimated weight to date? 7,000lb.....
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In the hundreds of pounds pounds, I'd guess
But we can do better than that
An average sheet of 3/4" is 84 pounds
At the point I am at tonight, (Not represented by tonights pics) I have cut up 12 sheets of ply. From that I'd estimate I have 3-4 sheets of waste, so call it 8.5 sheets for a total of 714 pounds
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Just chops bustin in the virtual O Club, Chief!
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Looking messy, but it is installed, screwed and glued
Although it looks like a mess in this pic, after sanding it looks great...That's where I am currently in the assembly
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Just chops bustin in the virtual O Club, Chief!
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I knew
But it was a good place to get some factual information out there
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Next, I cut the access for the pantry cabinet
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And attached that in the same manner
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Inside view showing minimal intrusion of wood molecules
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^^^ Hmmm, that was weird. I put the pic in upright and it went sideways!
Here you can see the glue doing its expansion thing between the wheel well and the cabinet bottom. It creates a multi piece "I" beam construction which made that region of the box as solid as could be.
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Another view:
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State of the build to this point:
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Just chops bustin in the virtual O Club, Chief!
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I knew
But it was a good place to get some factual information out there
Why would we let facts get in the way of a good argument (says every liberal who hates DJT)
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:likebutton:
Just chops bustin in the virtual O Club, Chief!
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I knew
But it was a good place to get some factual information out there
Why would we let facts get in the way of a good argument (says every liberal who hates DJT)
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:likebutton:
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BTW, looking at generators at the moment for this camper.
So far, I think a 2000 Watt unit will do the trick
The Honda !U 2200 is the standard, but is also a grand
This generac lists for around $749 and is substantially less at Lowes. If I buy it there I get 10% off mil discount so this is a strong candidate.
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Do the generacs have tandem kits like the hondas? Handy in case you need mo powa later
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Do the generacs have tandem kits like the hondas? Handy in case you need mo powa later
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Sure do
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Waiting for purchase of generac. I’d like it for my house also.
Is the glue foaming In your joints?
As for glue tests
My boss continues to try and use glue on finished surfaces like the pre finished Burch ply of the white melamine. It doesn’t bond to anything and breaks very easy.
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Looks just like my WEN, but will it run the AC? Just 8 amps but nice and quiet. Similar Champion is $400 at Cabelas, free shipping.
Like those gussets much better, but bet you could have used 1/2 on the boxes and so forth without using any strength.
Sure the wood will give long before the glue in your test too. But edge/joint glueing is nothing like gluing panel to panel.
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Like JR asked, will it run the AC? Those wall units take a few more amps to get going, also.
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That generator will do just fine. If you need more power then you can get a second one. Personally I would just go with a 3500. Then there is no question you will have plenty of juice. And because I over do everything.
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Food for thought on generator sizing too. Operating amperage is misleading on devices with an electric motor. What needs to be sized for is the LRA or locked rotor amps. When an electric motor starts, like a compressor, the initial inrush of current is usually double the operating amperage. You can usually find it on the label of the compressor or AC noted as LRA
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Great advice folks
I use this, but have long understood the start up amp draw of electric motors. Luckily we are looking at small electrical devices here.
I will only have (Running at the same time):
The AC, my coffee pot, the TV, a fan, a small arc welder, or plasma torch, the winch, the outside flood lights and two electric space heaters, along with the portable air compressor and battery charger, oh and the water pump and water heater too.
Should handle that with ease! :-0
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^^^ Mr. Engineer!!
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I don't disagree with Farmer Jon about the 3500, but I didn't build a whole lot of size in there. Think it's gonna have to remain the Honda 2000W size unit
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Great advice folks
I use this, but have long understood the start up amp draw of electric motors. Luckily we are looking at small electrical devices here.
I will only have (Running at the same time):
The AC, my coffee pot, the TV, a fan, a small arc welder, or plasma torch, the winch, the outside flood lights and two electric space heaters, along with the portable air compressor and battery charger, oh and the water pump and water heater too.
Should handle that with ease! :-0
Funny boss, but probably not far from the truth.
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might need one of these: https://proteng.com/
rv automated fire suppression system
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Don’t forget your electric blanket and heated mattress pad.
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Isnt the generac a 2200 watt with 2000 running
Errr, just got my keyboard wet and the new one is not working right!
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Don’t forget your electric blanket and heated mattress pad.
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Ooh, I did forget those...Got em! :-0
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Isnt the generac a 2200 watt with 2000 running
Errr, just got my keyboard wet and the new one is not working right!
Not sure JR. Either 2000 or 1800 running, should handle some light welding and popcorn poppin'
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That glue expands into everything. Crevices, empty screw holes, my back pocket, phone tap screen and my drill trigger. It does a good job of stickin' things together!
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Even foams up its own bottle!
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I ran around it with a #80 grit flap wheel which made quick work of the bubbly stuff and cleaned the surfaces right up!
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Next up lets build the front box
This thing will be a three compartment appendage that will store a cooler or fridge, and also a generator mounted on slides.
In between those areas, there will be a battery compartment and electrical compartment where I will store flammables and explosives...Should work out OK
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It will attach right here:
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I have hollowed bulkhead panels meant to add strength more than seperate stuff.
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The larger compartment is for the cooler. It should fit the large Pelican cooler I already have
In the middle will be batteries, and the smaller compartment will house the gen
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It came together pretty well
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I set it on a saw horse and slid it into approximate position. There is quite a bit of work yet to do here, but you get the idea
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https://www.amazon.com/Generac-7117-Portable-Inverter-Generator/dp/B071VNCWGL?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B071VNCWGL
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I guess they have several models. I was looking at one with a fuel level indicator and the rotary choke/run/off knob was on the side.
I was actually looking at some way to remote the fuel level output so I could look at it from inside.
I am adding a 5 gal fuel cell as well, so looking at run times of around 60 hours @ 25% load factor.
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Do they make these gens in a similar size that is powered by a fuel I always have? Diesel?!
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These are on sale and getting good reviews;
https://www.harborfreight.com/3500-Watt-Super-Quiet-Inverter-Generator-63584.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMjU0NDQyMDAiLCJza3UiOiI2MzU4NCIsImlzIjoiNjk5Ljk5IiwicHJvZHVjdF9p%0D%0AZCI6IjEyMTcyIn0%3D%0D%0A&utm_source=1021&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=4319b_Unbeatable_Tool_Deals&cid=mEmail_s1021_4319b_Unbeatable_Tool_Deals&lid=15,610,885&uid=9ec29797267009fcefe0ca1bd499542e45162fc27b079d2846b2e92264e8ad15
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That’s not a bad price Jr
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Do they make these gens in a similar size that is powered by a fuel I always have? Diesel?!
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Ya, Onan makes them for RV's
I look for them but don't see many diesel ones laying around used
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These are on sale and getting good reviews;
https://www.harborfreight.com/3500-Watt-Super-Quiet-Inverter-Generator-63584.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMjU0NDQyMDAiLCJza3UiOiI2MzU4NCIsImlzIjoiNjk5Ljk5IiwicHJvZHVjdF9p%0D%0AZCI6IjEyMTcyIn0%3D%0D%0A&utm_source=1021&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=4319b_Unbeatable_Tool_Deals&cid=mEmail_s1021_4319b_Unbeatable_Tool_Deals&lid=15,610,885&uid=9ec29797267009fcefe0ca1bd499542e45162fc27b079d2846b2e92264e8ad15
That's pretty impressive JR.
I'll have to swing over and check that puppy out. Thing is, I believe my Gen compartment is 14" deep and that thing is 17" wide. So still possible to fit it by cutting some and perhaps getting creative with the door...
Thinking...
Which is unusual
Mostly I just stare at pictures...
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FWIW..... I have the Predator 2000 (Honda clone). I bought it as a back up for my onboard Onan5500 on my toy-hauler. I reluctantly bough the predator unit based on recommendations from a guy that knows generators & small engine repairs. HF had them @ 399 during some sale and it fit the budget. The expert said Predators are well made and nearly as good as the Honda's in terms of reliability. I can tell you Ive done nothing to that unit except change the oil regularly. It always starts and has yet to give me a single problem in the 5 years Ive owned it. I don't use it much for the trailer unless my onboard fuel tanks are empty and i just need lights, heat or just top up the batteries, but i do use it on the property to run tools and such if i need remote power. I always use ethanol free fuel in it and its been a trusty unit. just my 2 cents.
Previously..I had IMO the best generator ever (Yamaha EF3000is). Large enough to run a/c and so quiet sometimes i didn't know it was there. also very reliable. Wish i still owned it.
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Diesel generators are stupid expensive compared to gas.
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Diesel generators are stupid expensive compared to gas.
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Yep!
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Diesel generators are stupid expensive compared to gas.
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Yep!
You do realize that Don will take that as an endorsement to buy one, right?
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It's his money to do with what he wants.
I recently found that Kubota makes a diesel generator at a more affordable price. I haven't had a chance to research them yet don't know anything about them.
Eventually I'd like to dump the Onan off my toter and replace it with a diesel generator of some sort.
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Picked up some new squaring and clamping tools
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That T-Square was slightly off. I had been noticing some pieces I cut were not square, requiring me to cut again. After checking I discovered that HF drywall T-Square to be off, so I replaced it
This one does multiple angles and locks down tight on 90 degrees
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About to get into a lot of gluing and clamping with no screws or brads to hold in place. Clamps are always useful
And this larger framing square is good for holding things on a 90 while attaching or fitting
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I'll be attaching that storage compartment pdq and I want a good nailer or gluing surface for it to catch onto. I decided to make up some 45 degree sections. First I planed some SYP 2 X 4's to get a good square corner
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Then I ripped them on the 45
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Then after carefully measuring and marking, I attached those pieces to the main cabin
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From the sketch-up configuration made on day one, I added a beveled upper edge to the box, so I cut it in on the box before it was attached
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Then laid in a section of plywood to give me that angle I wanted
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It all finished out quite well, and later on sanded to a perfect shape
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After marking out where the pieces of the box meets up with the front of the cabin, I drilled and installed a bunch of screws. Next I used copious amounts of glue prior to attaching the two big pieces
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Then the two parts were mated and screwed together. Glue came out everywhere and continued to expand for some time. Afterward these two pieces became one and at + 24 hours were super strong!
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I finished the attachment with that large 45 degree piece to strengthen up the attachment and carry the slope lines I was creating for a finished look.
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You can see how well the glue has expanded into every crevice and really bonded the whole thing up
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Will the frame support both the main cabin and new front box?
I have the same atlas square, great item and its machined for a 90* angle to lock in.
I hade a few of those squeeze clamps, loved em until they all broke.
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And here I have marked out for the cutting out of the door for the battery compartment
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Will the frame support both the main cabin and new front box?
I have the same atlas square, great item and its machined for a 90* angle to lock in.
I hade a few of those squeeze clamps, loved em until they all broke.
Yes, the whole thing you see here will rest on a 3 X 3 box steel frame
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I have been pulling out screws that are absolutely not needed
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I may pull out every other screw on all but critical joints because the gluing and spline joints already exceed the strength of the raw materials.
Oh, and I have not forgotten out little test to test glued joint integrity. I have several pieces glued together in various configurations to see if we can find a weakness.
I tried this one test joint where I glued a section of board on end to a flat plate. Next I butt joined another piece to the north end of the first vertical piece. It would stay put but after 10 minutes it would crash to the floor. The expanding nature of the glue was pushing up on the wood causing it to teeter, then fall apart. I finally gave up trying to get that to stick together.
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Neck, they are in and only can add to strength, why mess with em. jmho
That frame should hold up. Like to see a scetch and the axle.
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Neck, they are in and only can add to strength, why mess with em. jmho
That frame should hold up. Like to see a sketch and the axle.
I have the basic design on the sketchup but that is far from finalized. I find it easier to build in everything I need then "Fit" the frame to that configuration. Just my technique. One of the bigger factors is that I didn't know the dimensions of the timbren axles which will in part dictate the location of a crossmember at least. That and I have not fully researched information on the relationship with the location of the rear axle/CG/turning radius/desired tongue weight/and other factors I may not know about. Bob seems smart about such things and I can read, so the frame final design is liable to come together scarce minutes before it actually becomes steel.
And as for the screws, I don't think they add any strength as the glue already exceeds the strength of the wood itself. I see them as problematic as the wood expands and contracts over time with temp changes. Much like nail pops in drywall, they could cause a compromise in the waterproofing layers in the years to come, so like removing the appendix which does nothing to aid the modern body, with it being gone, the root of future problems arising from an infection of it are also eliminated
(Man, that was a prudy gud analogy, eh?)
(^^^Canadian influence right there...Tex, my master Corporal Armee friend from squatch would be proud!)
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I took a #80 grit flap wheel and ran it over the seams and around the screw holes and screw heads wher4e they remained. The plan is to treat this like an auto body panel and spend some time finishing it.
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Good old bondo was next. I wanted to treat it as a single panel before cutting out the battery compartment hatch
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I had a bunch left over, so I smeared it into the holes where the screws used to be holding the cabinets perimeter frame in place
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So the plan is to simply cut out the hatch, reusing the piece I harvested from the box. After making the cuts on the top side I screwed a piano hinge into place, then continued cutting
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Finishing out the corners with my handy Jap hand saw. I cut the bottom edge on a 45 slanting upward and inward to cause moisture to travel downhill with gravity and away from the box innards
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And just like that, I had a hatch!
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But wait, there's more!
That lid would not stay that way without some reinforcing so I created two ribs from 3/4" Plywood
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Everything is turning out to be really strong. These glued joints are very robust. You can't budge anything. This thing is becoming very rigid indeed!
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And speaking of glue strength, Salt Lake Dave asked for a glue strength test.
This is what I came up with. A section of 90 degree connection, a butt joint, a section's end glued to a board, and two sections joined butt end to butt end, then one free end glued to the base panel
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That test will only be partially complete as you will soon see. The expanding glue kept toppling the two piece vertical and thus it did not live to become cured while still attached to the base.
This is a standard RV water filler door assembly. The large port is to pour water directly into the tank, and the other is called a "City water" port that you would attach to a garden hose (Food grade) to provide pressurized water. I will have both hooked up
It will reside in the right rear above the water tank inlet
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I carefully cut it into the panel
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You can see from the inside view how simple the hookup actually is
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Don, you do very good work. I can only guess but if you can fly as well as you wood work I would say you could exceed the limits of the aircraft. Job well done
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Don, you do very good work. I can only guess but if you can fly as well as you wood work I would say you could exceed the limits of the aircraft. Job well done
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Thank you, but,
I'm just average. Almost everyone on this forum is far better than me. The important thing is 1. Did it bring some joy to someone? 2. Did it make someone happy or interested? 3. Does this contribute the building of community which, most importantly:
4. Does it show someone that people of God, trying to do it right, can have fun doing cool things?
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So preliminary results from the glue up test
The one double stacker would not stay put, tilted by the ever expanding glue and fell onto the saw-dust covered floor, so it's a no go. You may noticed the miniature leaning tower of pisa, that did not topple and is as hard as a rock at its precarious angle.
I'll get to breaking all this in a day or so
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Next, I made up a guard of sorts for the H2O door which is plastic. Nothing should be able to rub over and crack it with this frame fixed around its perimeter
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Here is the inside of the battery compartment door which got a lip on which I'll affix a weather seal
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And here is the first of several doors which will overlap the opening and share the same bevel, a 45 degree angle, hopefully to allow branches to just slide over and not hooking onto anything
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Fits like this:
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And the larger fold down stove/sink door:
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Then came the front storage side doors. The frig door opens forward to allow the cooler/frig to be pulled out for ease of access, relative to the door/pantry areas
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Contrarily, the generator door will open aft, providing somewhat of a noise deflector for the gen when it is out and running
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The water fill port door surround:
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After cutting a 45 bevel on all sides of the pantry door, I decided I actually needed the bottom side to be square to more easily mount the hinge. So I had to glue the bevel pieces once removed, back onto the panel
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And here it is so far:
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Well, I was messing around with hinge ideas today, experimenting with this and that
I finally settled on a multi finger design made of multiple layers of plywood connected to another set of "Fingers" with a steel axle pin about 1" in diameter.
I'll get some pics of it tomorrow.
Right now I am thinking I'll just hinge the top on the back and tilt it up a good amount toward the front since that is about the only place you could stand up considering the location of the bed/sofa.
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Here are the components of the hinge, of which there will be two
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Utilizing a 1" solid steel axle
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Assembled for test fitting with a section of CPVC
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One half of the hinge will be affixed to the back wall and the other half will attach to the roof frame
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I cut down the steel bar and ground off the rust, then gave the axles a light coating of grease
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I smeared a light coat of grease into the holes bored into the hinge parts
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With that done, I slipped the axle into the bores, and separated each segment with a rubber O-Ring. That really made the thing work well. THe hinge action is really good, solid, with a little drag and almost a machined feel to it.
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Next, I mixed up a batch of that Sherwin-Williams epoxy and coated the hinge "Fingers" and set them aside to dry.
I also gave the battery compartment a coating to seal it against the elements
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I followed that with sealing the pantry and stove/sink compartments
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And exhausted my supply of the stuff on the frig compartment.
I total, I still have nearly a gallon of the epoxy remaining, that I will use as a sealer for parts that will likely be exposed to moisture.
For places like an exterior facing compartment, I feel like a single coat of this epoxy is all that is needed to make for a weatherproof surface
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Looking good, lots done.
Do you really need a solid pin or would tube work, even PVC? No real weight on it and plenty of support.
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Looking good, lots done.
Do you really need a solid pin or would tube work, even PVC? No real weight on it and plenty of support.
It's just what I had sitting around. I think a piece of Copper pipe may work in the end if I can get one to fit properly
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Or a piece of pvc conduit
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Or a piece of pvc conduit
The only thing about PVC is the fact that it becomes brittle in very cold climates.
So, I could see camping out on the KAT on a cold winter night when a wind pops up, like the winds today and rocks the top which is tantamount to a big sail. The embrittled PVC breaks apart causing loss of the nice cozy heated sleep BDD (Big Daddy Don) is gettin'
That's a no-no in my world
Nossir, kopper it is!
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Now that the epoxy coating has dried, The hinges were assembled
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Then glued onto the block that will be attached to the back of the camper (Vertical piece) and the section that will be affixed to the top (horizontal section)
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I shortened the top fingers to fit the top panel
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Then cut the corner off at a 45.
Later some time I will spend some time blending these hard angles some when I reach that stage of the build
And that will finish the hinges until after they are attached at both ends and can be massaged some more
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Here, the cooking area cabinet got its outside door attached
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Utilizing some left over aluminum extrusion, I attached a short section inside the cabinet
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That piece will hold the end of this sliding arm which will also attach to the door to hold it in any position I choose.
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I'll shorten the hardware in time, tonight was just fitting everything up
Attached at either end, this is how it will support that door/table
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It works great, closing without so much as whisper
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Next up, the pantry door was attached
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A simple length os stainless steel cable routed through eye bolts holds everything level
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And that is that for this project day!
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Maybe a late question. But.... do you have a door big enough to get it out of the basement
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Maybe a late question. But.... do you have a door big enough to get it out of the basement
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We Dave’s must think alike. I’ve pondered that question a few times but kept telling myself, “c’mon, this is don. He wouldn’t do that.”
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If you 2 will reference this thread, you will see pics of the huge double doors he has under that monstrosity of a deck.
http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=4072.0
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Plus you need to add in the weight of this. Between 1” steel bar for hinges on wood doors and 12.7 layers of epoxy. I hope the boss lady gets a video of the move party. I keep thinking piano with no room to get it out the door.
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Maybe a late question. But.... do you have a door big enough to get it out of the basement
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I do
Double door which is 80" tall
Will require me to roll the camper onto its side to slide out, but it will fit
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I decided to relocate the AC unit from the back to the front
After looking at it for a week now, it seems to make more sense to be up front.
I was about to cut the rear corner out to mount the needed vent panels when it occurred to me, that particular area is the same needed to carry the roof loads where the roof hinge mounts
So I set the AC unit on top of the front box and just like that I saw the possibility
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I started construction of the cabinet with the side panels
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Which I cut out for the vent panels
These aluminum vent panels weigh about nothing, are made for foundation ventilation and are 12" X 12"
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And fit that space rather well
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Then I cut out the front panel to fit the AC unit
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Which will fit the AC unit about like this:
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With that, time to glue in the sides:
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Then the permanent part of the roof panel. The opening remaining will be covered with a door
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Minor blowout:
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And the current configuration:
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Good idea on moving it. Have you actually run it to see where it needs venting.
Also on my unit they allow a lot of airflow wen not in use. A cover of some type might be a good idea on cold nights.
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Good idea on moving it. Have you actually run it to see where it needs venting.
Also on my unit they allow a lot of airflow wen not in use. A cover of some type might be a good idea on cold nights.
JR- I have run it for awhile to see how things work, can't say I learned anything
I do have a cover(s) planned for the vents...
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Made up the interior section and glued/screwed that into place.
Seems I am not running out of screws. A few days after the glue sets up, I end up pulling every other screw out and in some cases, all of them. The screw is just a department of redundancy department thing and is really not needed at all.
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The blocking around the edge serves to make the attachment stronger and provides a lip I can use to later attach the interior trim
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Next I doubled up the floor of the AC enclosure to add a ton of strength. That ply in there is 1.5" thick
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Next up I created the front door/hatch
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Then cut out for the vent
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Two vents now installed with the right side remaining solid. I am thinking I do not need another vent in there, but I could add one to encourage spiders, mud daubers, crickets, wasps, and the like to take up residence in the cabinet
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A single piece of fir cut on a weird 100 degree angle strengthens the door a bunch
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A single hole provides a way to get the power cord into the electrical compartment
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The same style of limb guard will provide some protection to the aluminum vents
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That glue surely does expand a bunch!
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The strips of ply being glued into place form a lip I will use to mount the gasket to keep most of the wet stuff out of the cabinet
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The cooktop cabinet door needed some beefing up, so I glued down another sheet of 3/4" birch plywood
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And that is where I stopped for the evening
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That should be enough air for it, don't forget the water drain.
Why no beveled edges on the inside AC box?
Wondering what kind of latches you will use on all the doors?
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Can we start a pot where we all enter a chance to guess the final dry weight of the finished unit?
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Can we start a pot where we all enter a chance to guess the final dry weight of the finished unit?
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There will be a fair amount of tongue weight I think. That is built way heaver than a standard camper trailer. Normal trailers wold have a this skin of fiberglass or aluminum an inch of styrofoam and some paneling.
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I do
Double door which is 80" tall
Will require me to roll the camper onto its side to slide out, but it will fit
Now that's funny
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That should be enough air for it, don't forget the water drain.
Why no beveled edges on the inside AC box?
Wondering what kind of latches you will use on all the doors?
I guess I'll use several different types
For the actual bay doors a door handle cut in to the panel that is designed for campers.
For the fold down cook top, one of those rotating handles that pushes out steel rods that engage holes in the chassis
For the AC and electrical compartment, some lever latch mounted on the exterior, I am thinking
For the main cabin door, Just plan on using a curtain made of bamboo and an old Armee blanket! ;-))
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Can we start a pot where we all enter a chance to guess the final dry weight of the finished unit?
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I believe it should fall in the 2000-3000 range with a full tank of water and my flip-flops, along with a salt and pepper shaker ;-)
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Where are the prerangers and a sawsall?
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Where are the prerangers and a sawsall?
Court ordered remain clear by at least 500 feet or one physical floor!
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I took the brush guards and machined them for screws that would be recessed and also square to the panel they mount to
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THen fitted to the cabinet. I used #10-24 machine screws in lieu of wood screws so I had some rebuildability
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Seems to work
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Snugged up
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I added a thicker guard to the front panel
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The more or less somewhat finished installation
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I purchased this outside shower unit to serve as the only shower on the camper
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I cut that into the right side above the water fill port
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It will get an entire privacy enclosure in a little while when the body is coated and mounted on the chassis
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The old repurposed AC cabinet now starting to fill with water system parts
The water pump is on order and I already have the filter unit. I am about to plumb in the H2O system so it was time to get the big parts fitted
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Front electrical compartment door/hatch fitted:
With this all complete. I have a short punch-out list of things to do, then I'll start building the top
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I am sure you covered this already and I must have missed it. But, where is the water from the AC unit drain?
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I am sure you covered this already and I must have missed it. But, where is the water from the AC unit drain?
Not there yet, plan to plumb a drain tube downward
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I am sure you covered this already and I must have missed it. But, where is the water from the AC unit drain?
It's the hole he drilled for the A/C power cord into the electrical compartment... :tongue:
zzzzzzaaaaaap!!
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I am sure you covered this already and I must have missed it. But, where is the water from the AC unit drain?
It's the hole he drilled for the A/C power cord into the electrical compartment... :tongue:
zzzzzzaaaaaap!!
Funny man!
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I got started on the roof
To give it a stable place on which to rest, I will build a channel all the way around the upper/outside edge
To do that, I picked up some SYP #1 grade for the ends and some #2 pine for the sides.
After cutting the pieces 2.5" wide and a bit long to allow for precise fitting later, I cut grooves into them to hold the upright portion of the upper mating surface
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Then using screws sparingly and the expando gorilla glue, I created this semi I-beam construct:
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It is amazing how much stronger the pieces of wood become with the addition of another identical piece attached at a 90 degree angle
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After some kicking around and measuring while standing inside the camper, I decided to can the finger hinge idea and go for a true pop-up top configuration. I will be looking for something a tad over seven feet of vertical space in there and to do so, I came up with an interesting way of raising and stabilizing the roof.
So, on either end there will be two 18" tall X 48" wide panels, hinged together that fold nearly flat in such a way so that they lay atop each other and rest at a horizontal position. One at either end with the apex or hinged portion facing inward.
With such a configuration, all one would have to do is to push outward at the hinge and the resultant force would push the roof straight up. The ends of the plywood halves of the hinge have received a 10 degree cut so that as you push outward they over center just a bit at the moment the hinge arrests movement. With either end over-centered outward, the top is held in position and should resist movement when aided by a taught fabric and maybe a cable system to hold it up and a couple of gas cylinders to assist in the raising.
I neglected to snap any pics of the "Hinge" but do have a shot of the mild angle set into the table saw.
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I wanted to get those upper rails glued on today, but messing with the hinged top raising mechanisms kept me occupied for sometime. Well that and my little assistant who wanted to know everything and do everything...
So here is how the hinge will overcenter which should serve to keep it open and add some stability to the top
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After running a fir 2 X 4 through the planner on each side, I cut six 12" lengths to serve as positive stops for the over-centering hinge. They are cut with 10 degree angles on each facet of the meeting parts to give me 20 degrees of over-center.
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The top panel of the hinge got three of these stops which were screwed and glued into place
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Then I added a stiffener beneath the area the piano hinge will be attached
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Then the continuous hinge was attached with a bunch of stainless screws
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It folded and opened perfectly, and I would have been on to building the second one, but my little assistant was in the process of finding little treasures on the floor.
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She found the door of the camper so now it is starting to get used a bunch!
I just started on the second one when "Mimi" showed up with some chicken...off to a good slow night!
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Second one done
This one is about one inch shorter to give a small slope to the roof to help shed water molecules
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The three holes are to fit a handle affair used to push on to erect the roof
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Then the handle was glued in place
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Two down and somewhat completed, off to build the roof support
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After sanding flat and scratching up with a belt sander using #36 grit, I laid down the gorilla juice thus creating the aft roof mount/flange/bulkhead/header/top-thing
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Then the right side top rail.
Gluing and screwing these sections to the plywood top really stiffened up things and made straight any plywood bowing or warping.
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Front edge emplaced
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All four sides are in place, but I made a couple mistakes that left two of the sections too short. I'll section in the proper pieces to bring this to completion
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Anyone else confused with these roof panels?
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Anyone else confused with these roof panels?
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Yep
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...One end attaches to the camper body and the other end to the roof.
When folded, the roof is resting in its cradle which you see going together now
Push on the handle to expand the hinge panels and the roof rises
Panels then over center allowing the weight of the roof to effectively hold them open in the extended position
Make sense?
The roof will have a fabric sealing it to the body
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The sides of the roof will add 7" to the overall height. I wanted to build them from ply, and given the lengths of the sides, I had to spline and butt end join two pieces to make one long one. They will be dry in the morning
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While those were setting up, I got busy mounting the tailights
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I built a 2" tall perimeter box to protect the units from branches
I immediately the girls thought I was building a picture frame!
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They are so stinkin cute!
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When they finished playing with them, I mounted them PDQ
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Ought to get the job done
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Then I mounted the doorway illumination light
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And now that I am starting to mount components, time to get one of the fuse panels installed. In this case the 12VDC for the DC stuff. I'm using a marine unit manufactured for use on a boat
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Prominently placed with super easy access it will go in this corner:
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I scabbed over the ABX with some cabinet grade 3/4" birch to both finish that particular spot and provide more strength to the top, side, and kitchenette box
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What does the blond see in the first picture?
Why mount the junction box in the open, or will it be covered?
What angled lights are those?
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What does the blond see in the first picture?
Why mount the junction box in the open, or will it be covered?
What angled lights are those?
Blonde: Who knows!
Fuse box out in the open where I want it to be, easy to see and check
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That butt end joint turned out strong and flat
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First longitudinal piece added to the left side. Top sides are spaced 3/4" from the inside rail to allow for fabric thickness top and bottom
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Keeping the 45 degree angle theme going
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Then the back plate was added
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The right side longeron is in place and here is the first of several parts of the front edge
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I ran out of plywood and had to source my ready stack of cedar from the farm, planed to a proper harness
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Next I added a vertical 3 1/2" piece of SYP, then reinforced the backside with a 45 degree piece of fir glued on all sides
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This single stiffener really did the job of tightening up the whole front
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And here it is with the top hat in position
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And tonight the youngest preranger was awarded a varsity patch for football as a 9th grader! He actually won his varsity letter in wrestling as an eight grader.
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Thats awesome!
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Letter as a 8th/9th grader in Varsity is awesome.
Work looks good on the camper.
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This is the boy who has missed a bunch with the hospital visits also right?
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This is the boy who has missed a bunch with the hospital visits also right?
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Yep, had to work extra hard to make up for time lost to sickness
Notice the West point hoodie?
Has wanted to go to WP for years and become a US Army Infantry Officer and Ranger. In fact he has no other plans.
He got a "B" in algebra and came to talk to me about how he had to pull his GPA up!
And, No, Bobby, he has no interest in flying...Just wants to be a grunt.
Maybe not my child...dunno...#confused#crazy#can'tthinkstraight#WTH
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The fact that you just dropped all of those hash tags..... :facepalm: :popcorn:
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#notinstagram lol
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In preparation to mount the rear hinged lifting device, I doubled up the top rail to 1.5" thickness
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Then installed the piano hinge onto the lower edge. This hinge will soon be attached to the lower part to that doubled aft rail
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Here it is completely attached to the aft wall top rail and shown in the fully extended position. Just imagine the top being attached to the upper end and you get an idea for the height I'll have inside
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When raised it has this gap beneath. I think I'll look at the design and come up with a way to lock it out in the erected position just incase one of the curious grand-girls decide to pull on it while doing some curtain climbin'
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So I needed a way to actually assemble the hinge to the top, but because of the way the hinge needs to be attached I could only do it if I was inverted in a parallel universe. Heisenberg device is in the shop for a time flux gate calibration so I just decided to create something that would attach to the hinge and then attach to the hinge. I decided on a number of #10 X 24 screws and threaded inserts into a piece of ply. The holes on the top of the hinge is where the screws go to capture the bottom hinged up piece
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Another view of all that business:
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How that works:
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It was easiest to just bolt the whole thing to the bulkhead in the top, snug up a few screws, then slide the bulkhead/rib into the top frame
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Once I had it down in the top outside framing I attached it with 10- 1.5" blocks with glue only
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A bunch of clamps get used but none were hurt or abused in the making of tonight's thread installment.
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The door latch for the fold-out kitchen is done:
I may do a little more work on it...dunno.
Kintuckee proud!
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When raised it has this gap beneath. I think I'll look at the design and come up with a way to lock it out in the erected position just incase one of the curious grand-girls decide to pull on it while doing some curtain climbin'
I would think a piece of rubber ( think bike tire tube) if stapled or glued onto both edges could be flexible enough to move, keep water or what not out, keep fingers from being smashed
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Been a busy couple of days
Thanksgiving, wood choppin' then pickin' up things
So, wasn't an abundance of time to get much done.
But I did get some things done
I decided to lighten up the hinge apparatus thing used to raise the roof. I started by punching a 5" hole in it
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Then I punched a whole bunch more into it
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Saving this much weight:
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It actually made some noticeable difference. I did not mount it because I have not completely laid out how it will mount. I need to take care that it is removable and does not block the entrance when the top is lowered.
I did cut out the banding for the top of the chassis that will form the rest of the lip and drip rail that the top will rest on. It will eventually have a foam tape layer sealing the tpo to the chassis
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But wait, there's more!
It is about time to put the thing on the ground, so I scored some furniture dollies from HFT which were on sale today for $10.99 ea. That isn't bad for a carpet covered hardwood rectangle 30" long with four casters. I picked up five.
I also ordered all the door latches for the various doors located just about everywhere. I'll cut them in, then build sturdy mounts for the top latches, 4 ea. which I also ordered.
Add to that, I started listing out the Electrical plan for the interior. I thought I'd start there, then draw boxes where everything gets located, then start routing and pulling wires.
The electrical plan will include:
Overhead Fan 12VDC
2 ea. Overhead lights, LED 12VDC
Reading lamp, right 12VDC
Reading lamp left, 12VDC
Water pump, 12VDC
Electrical outlet Left 115VAC
Electrical outlet right 115VAC
Cigarette lighter outlet 12VDC
2 ea. USB ports for recharging 5VDC
On demand (gas) H2O heater 12VDC
exterior outlet in pantry 115VAC
Exterior outlet in Kitchen 115VAC
outlet located in electrical compartment 115VAC
Tail Lights (trailer to vehicle harness)
2 ea. Exterior lights, LED 12VDC
door/entry light, LED 12VDC
Exterior shower light 12VDC
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And now I have a lot of the electrical stuff ordered
But I could use some advice on how to set that all up
I will have two 6VDC deep cycle batteries in series to make 12VDC. That will supply all the 12 volt requirements.
I will have a rectifier to provide the 115VAC stuff, but I will also have the 2000W generator.
On that point, I am not sure if I just have the gen power a battery charger, or maybe figure out how to have it feed the AC side of things in tandem with the rectifier. Again, not real clear how to set that all up
Additionally I will have a solar panel which will recharge the batteries, and finally, a shore power cable, make it 20 amps, 115VAC.
Some things will obviously run strictly off of AC, such as the coffee maker and AC unit, and some things strictly off of DC such as the water pump and LED lights.
I'll have to self educate some on electrical theory and application to get that sorted, but in a macro sense, that is where I am going.
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Have you thought about going with a Lifo battery at all? Rated for 3k discharges and you can fully discharge them without damage.
Most are made with cells inside the case so you can build your own for less. Just have to keep from freezing and about twice the price pf AGM.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ICCNexergy-Lithium-Iron-Phosphate-Battery-07-56178-002-12-8V/202754880272?hash=item2f3521f310:g:ptUAAOSwrHRdUImC
https://youtu.be/L43bArxyszU
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Got the trim piece installed. I cut it in around the taillights and glued it on every surface it touched
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Then I made up the shower door guard. I clamped and glued it on a board covered with parchment paper and got zero sticking
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It came out as strong as expected. I roughed up the back side with a belt sander and #36 grit then glued/clamped it in place
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Next I got after the roof, starting to build in the top panel support structure. I had to taper the first section from 1.25" out to 2" to clear the lifting hinge
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Then added a section section which thickened up to 3.5" installed height
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All of this is very rigid and the top is actually screwed to the chassis during this part of the build with spacer blocks to keep everything fitting well and playing together.
Next up was another "Rafter" if you will to create a space for the fan
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This is where the seam of the roof sheeting will fall so I created a wide "Nailer" ledge which I will also box in for some added strength at mid span
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The fan is now roughed in as it were. Not far from starting some wiring
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I cut this board twice and its still too short!
So I glued some back onto the end to see if I can make some magic!
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How heavy is the top so far (est) ?
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How heavy is the top so far (est) ?
Its light so far
As you will see with tonight's installment it lifts and tilts. In the end it will have 4 ea gas cylinders assisting the up, so it shouldn't be much to worry about. The SYP framing is very light. The fan is light, about the only thing of substance is the 3/4" plywood sides.
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In these pics, I have removed the screws holding the top to the body so that I could get at an area to install a hinge. The up effort is not much to speak of, maybe 30 pounds ish
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Attempt #1, I screwed the hinge to the upper bulkhead, but I did not like the angle, so I added another piece of ply to the vertical rib to strengthen it and push the hinge aft just a tad for better alignment
Key here is getting the hinge to hang in such a way that it does not interfere with access through the door
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And here it is hanging in the proper position, and I have attached the top piece (Which is on the bottom in this pic)
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And now it is attached as it should be
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Now, back at the framing. First up, I boxed that center beam leaving it hollow. The cavity will be used to run wires to the lights, fan, solar panel and possible an antenna
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Then I finished adding in the roof ribbing that will support the plywood top cover
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Is there any reason for 3/4 on the roof. Why not a thinner material. Covering the exterior with fiberglass or something anyway?
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Is there any reason for 3/4 on the roof. Why not a thinner material. Covering the exterior with fiberglass or something anyway?
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3/4 is used for the 8" tall sides only. Top cover will be 3/8"
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That’s makes sense. I thought you were going to put 3/4 on top so you could use it as a shooting position. You know, like a tactical top, er something like that. ;)
Build is looking good. I’m really interested in how the final build.
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All kinds of things keep coming in
Hard to stay ahead of everything. Shown are the roof can lights, the roof clamps, some electrical stuff, and a bunch of door latches/handles which I'll be cutting in next
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I finished installing the roof ribbing and blocking. The roof has become a pretty rigid and lightweight structure, time to cover it up
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The first section of roof panel is glued/screwed into place. The 3/8" Birch cabinet plywood was very light, like 10 pounds a sheet, and I only used six of the eight feet
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I installed the second piece starting at the front, leaving the center section open
I'll set up a rain collection system in the middle to stay hydrated
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...Or not!!
Got cha, Dave
Cool down, thought you had me in a big catch...
Count down slowly from 10....
Here is the center void all filled in with some nicely cut in pieces of Ply.
This finishes the covering of the roof, now, I'll cut some access holes for this and that, then pull it off and cover it with glass
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This guy the mountain dog has been spending a considerable amount of time inside there. You think he knows what's coming someday???
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It's becoming more and more complete!
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I guess it’s the typical after the fact but you could of added some slope to that roof. One direction of the other. But flat is good too
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Thought that was an old tac topper pic at first!!!
Fill those roof voids with sheet foam?
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Good winter project Don. Btw how’s the boiler working??
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I guess it’s the typical after the fact but you could of added some slope to that roof. One direction of the other. But flat is good too
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So here's my thought on that
When at rest it should have a slight down angle to the front if my estimate is correct on its finished height
When moving, well its too dynamic for water to puddle
When erected, I built the hinges two different lengths, so they will incur a slight tilt when the top is in the up position.
Although, like you said, it won't matter
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Thought that was an old tac topper pic at first!!!
Fill those roof voids with sheet foam?
Yes, the top will get 2" 3M fomular insulating foam board
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Food winter project Don. Btw how’s the boiler working??
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Boiler has finally hit its stride (Or I finally figured out how to use it.
It now runs at least 12 hours delivering all these thousands of cubic feeteses nice warm air. It stays 71-73 throughout the house all night.
Had a very windy/cold day recently. We remained toasty the whole time. The thing does eat some wood, but it gives it right back and I haven't spent a dime on wood, save spending to have chains sharpened and fuel for the truck.
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like a tactical top, er something like that. ;)
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Next up: Door latches/handles
Prior to installing the first of many, I installed the lip around the inside edge to hold a future gasket
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Then I cut in the lockable pull latch that will secure the fresh bananas against monkeys of all sizes!
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To secure the AC access door, I used a cam latch that is frequently used on aircraft cowlings.
These are lockable should one so desire
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One for each side
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I used the same cam-latches on the pantry access door
They pull things up nice and tight
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I used them on the kitchen door as well
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Now I did something I may live to regret, but when building the generator area, I made it so that the door will not close completely at the top corner, and needs to be winched shut.
The reason I was thinking was possible ventilation should I ever want to run it inside the compartment, or perhaps to vent gas fumes or who knows what.
Anyway a simple pull latch handle solved the closure issue easily enough.
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I still need to install the inside metal striker plates for the door latches, but that phase is nearing completion.
I will have to remove the hardware before finishing to get the good water proofing I want, but the current alignment shouldn't change much
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Continuing to build, at the moment I am cleaning up the exterior build out and getting prepped for painting.
To do that, all latches have to be fitted, hinges installed, gasket surfaces installed, holes punched for a myriad of things and then endless filling of holes and sanding.
This sliding shelf is where the sink bowl will reside once the camp is set up. The fitting is tight, but when the leaf is extended there is no slop and it feels strong
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First coats of spar varnish going on
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Body filler and smoothing still remaining, but it fits and works well
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I am replacing any wood screw attachment on service items with star nut plates that use 10-24 machine screws
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Gen compartment is finishing up nicely. Will get the sliding tray, sound proofing and paint
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vacuumed off, ready for next coating of bondo. After this one and sanding it will start to look like a solid unit and not just panels.
I ordered the Raptor liner, quite a bit of it, as in gallons. Some will be sprayed on black and some will be tinted.
I was going to follow the color of the Suburban, but I think I am now liking that new TRD Pro color, "Army Green"
Should the burb ever be repainted, that would be a cool choice too!
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I'll start another thread to discuss the frame build, materials discussion, but that is coming right up
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Looks good and good idea on the blind nuts.
For the Gen slider. Are you making your own or getting bearing drawer slide outs?
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Looks good and good idea on the blind nuts.
For the Gen slider. Are you making your own or getting bearing drawer slide outs?
I bought roller slides that support a couple hundred pounds
The frig sliders are 36" long and rated for 500 lbs.
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Tonight's post is not all that exciting, but reflects 6-7 hours of panel prep.
While I continue to mount things as they come in, I am also pressing ahead with prepping the thing for the layers of coatings it will get to waterproof it.
Starting with body putty, I fill all the holes, then sand smooth, then repeat until the surface is more uniform
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All the felt tip marker circles point to areas needing another coat of body filler.
I worked the filler with #50 grit on a vented orbital sander, then once satisfied, the whole thing was sanded with #120
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Then vacuumed off, wiped down, then covered with a rolled on layer of primer. This product fights mold and mildew and seals the wooden surface.
This is the first coat. I will progress over the body in areas until I have it all completely primed, then sand it and apply another layer or maybe just the paint layer...undecided on that at the moment
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Parts are just flowing in at the moment
I have the solar panels, solar controller, electrical panel, inverter, sound proofing, generator, and all manner of electrical bits.
You'll see me start to toss those things inside where they will only require being hooked up to finish.
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Looks like a second coat of primer wouldn’t hurt from my experience. As for your wood bondo prep it looks on point.
Would you please post a link or identification for your roller glides you have for the fridge and the generator?
We installed some 4” pull out glides for a home. $150 a drawer but rated for 800 or so pounds in the drawer. Terrible install process but man where they smooth!!
Do we get a video of this roof open and closing?
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Looks like a second coat of primer wouldn’t hurt from my experience. As for your wood bondo prep it looks on point.
Would you please post a link or identification for your roller glides you have for the fridge and the generator?
We installed some 4” pull out glides for a home. $150 a drawer but rated for 800 or so pounds in the drawer. Terrible install process but man where they smooth!!
Do we get a video of this roof open and closing?
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Slides, I just went online and found the ones I needed, when I install them I'll shoot a pic of the packaging
Vid on roof opening, I guess I could
As soon as I get it on the floor
I don't have the clearance to open it all the way, only about half way. My plan is to get the bottom side coated, then put it on the floor and concentrate on the roof.
I still haven't found the correct gas cylinders to raise something of, what, 100 pounds, upward 36 inches. The hinges will do it, but it's quite the effort.
Any ideas about the gas struts??
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I’ll just leave this here.
http://www.glasteel.com/images/Product%20Range%20Catalogue_yes785
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not sure if we have ever asked this question yet or not?!…….
is the frau going to be or willing to stay in this?!
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Your looking for a single strut? Why not double up. Two in each corner. Not sure the math but if one pushed 25 pounds wouldn’t two push 50?
What about electric motors to lift it up?
BEMONOC DC Linear Actuator Motor 24V 300mm 12" Stroke 16mm/s Speed 600N 132Lbs Force https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1NO6HF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NJneEbQBHQV67
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I’ll just leave this here.
http://www.glasteel.com/images/Product%20Range%20Catalogue_yes785
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You always do this!
After the fact sort of guy...
;-))
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not sure if we have ever asked this question yet or not?!…….
is the frau going to be or willing to stay in this?!
She says no way, but set up and move out for parts west for a two week excursion and I'll bet she finds herself a part of this
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Your looking for a single strut? Why not double up. Two in each corner. Not sure the math but if one pushed 25 pounds wouldn’t two push 50?
What about electric motors to lift it up?
BEMONOC DC Linear Actuator Motor 24V 300mm 12" Stroke 16mm/s Speed 600N 132Lbs Force https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1NO6HF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NJneEbQBHQV67
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Dave, I plan to bolt on 4 struts opposing in direction which is opposite to the over-center of the hinge to become very stable when raised
Linear motors too complex for this simple thing.
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You will already have 12v system running. And what’s complicated about up and down motors pal? Surely
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Electric struts are a great way to go. Cheap, self limiting and can do lots of work.
Plus it would be cool to just push a button.
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You will already have 12v system running. And what’s complicated about up and down motors pal? Surely
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Not complicated, just not necessary
But for grins, where is a 36" stroke linear actuator to be found?
I see the link for a 12" stroke thing, but 3 feet?
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Lots of sanding and painting today
I started with taking everything apart so that all surfaces were exposed to get a good coat of paint on everything, including a little dog's nose!
As per Dave's recommendation, everything got the second coat of primer and now looks much more "covered"
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Along with the various hatches and doors
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And all surfaces of the inside of all compartments in the front
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Got this area sanded and most of the holes filled...Still more to go here before color
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Speaking of color, I went for a distressed look on this slide out shelf (to ve a wash basin holder)
I really like how that turned out
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And the final coat of spar urethane is now laid down on the kitchen shelf
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Ask and you shall receive.
Newsmarts 32 inch Stroke Linear Actuator Motor DC 12V 1500N/330 lbs Maximum Lift (Includes Mounting Brackets) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FLY7X89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CaweEb13ANNR7
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What more can you ask for?
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I think push button would be way better then hydro shocks, I can’t keep a set on my truck shell for more than a year. At least with an electric motor you have ease and longevity. Plus when Don adds solar panels, a bike/kayak/kobota rack to the roof. The rams will drive them selves.
How is the suburban doing?
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2-1/2 minutes to full extension? Don would lose his mind
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What more can you ask for?
the 36" lift that I actually require!
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What more can you ask for?
the 36" lift that I actually require!
So move it back 4” from the end of the door...... :knucklehead: :popcorn:
Did Ken hijack your account? What did you do with Don?
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Less travel with a lever=faster, probably cheaper. Those will lift 1200lbs!
:popcorn:
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Now I was trying to figure out how to draw something for him but my first thought was space consumption, A boomerang style lever like they use for suspension on the trophy trucks.
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Cantilever suspension is what comes to mind.
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More electric stuff = more stuff to break.
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Who are you kidding it’s don. It’s gonna break!
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Who are you kidding it’s don. It’s gonna break!
Yeah, he seems to test things to the limits.
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More electric stuff = more stuff to break.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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So more nugg work today. Have to get the whole thing with body filler, then primer, then paint. All necessary prior to applying the Raptor Liner Urethane top coat
So it's just work right now. I have the entire front end all the way to a second coat of Epoxy paint which is the last coat for the insides of the compartments, and the last coat of anything before the bed liner spraying.
2 coats of epoxy paint, this is the first
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This stuff:
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Second coat
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And a final touch-up coat applied where I felt it was necessary
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These just came in from "Nuttys" where I purchase my bulk hardware.
Star nut plates in 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" which will get drilled in tomorrow all over creation to allow me to hang things that are now piling up all over the place
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I think I mentioned it over in the "Steel" thread that I have the Timbren independent axles/hubs/brakes coming in. That pallet of parts weighs in at 250 lbs, so not some little flimsy parts.
I went with the HD3500 axle assemblies after talking to a tech up there. He said the HD model was specifically designed for off road trailer applications. The heavier steel prevents twisting and the rubber pillows are made is a softer material to allow for more axle travel and mo-easilyer.
These are the parts as pictured on the Timbren site:
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It’s almost a shame with all of this prep and paint to cover it with raptor. Looks good gray.
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Most likely this color with a black roof, black highlights, and black underside/frame
Toyota TRD Pro color of the year, "Army Green"
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I purchased 2.5 gallons of tintable Raptor Urethane. Each bottle, about a liter takes only 3 ounces of urethane paint to tint it to color
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My vote is not for black on the roof if you do any camping in warmer weather. It’s going to absorb heat and transfer it to the interior.
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My vote is not for black on the roof if you do any camping in warmer weather. It’s going to absorb heat and transfer it to the interior.
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OK, I'm listening, what would you suggest? A gray perhaps?
I know which color you would like to see, but, no, you may not have that color, kind sir
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I’d go with a white edpm roof coating and a closed cell spray foam on the underside of the roof. You should only need about 1-1/2 inches of closed cell foam to get to like R-10
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Lighter the better, EDM is good and just roll it on.
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How long does this EDM coating last?
Like the 7 year stuff on campers?
If no not gonna work, I want something that lasts next to forever
Bed liner will!
And I already have it (Its heavy!)
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EDM will last 5-7 easy and can be recoated easy. It’s flexible. If you already have the bed liner, just paint it white or roll some white edm on it after you put in the liner on
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You can get bed liner in just about any color you want. So it doesn't have to be black.
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:popcorn:
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What if don is winter camping and the dark color attracts warmth
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You can get bed liner in just about any color you want. So it doesn't have to be black.
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I have 2.5 gallons of tintable urethane, so, yes, I could tint some white for the top if I so decided
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Green n white doesn’t look bad
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https://images.app.goo.gl/3KziKqgELgX4FRJe6
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Tucked this slide back in the table. I rubbed candle wax all over it, and it will slide, although it's a tight fit
I still need to cut out for the wash basin, I just haven't gotten one yet.
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Then I prepped the inside area, filling in some imperfections, then sanded the entire thing
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Then gave it a coat of the gray epoxy
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On to the slides, the gen slides are in and fitted to the shelf
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And those mugo refrigerator slides were so heavy and so tall, I ended up mounting them flat instead of sideways.
They would support either 500 or 800 pounds mounted on their side, so I am betting on them being able to support, say 75-85 pounds sitting on their backs
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Then the slide bottoms were treated to two coats of primer, and two coats of epoxy over a 3-4 hour period
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Along the front and the hatches, I made some more corrections after seeing what the surface looked like with dark paint
It looks better now and the layers of protection is continuing to build up
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The inside of the compartments which I think may see moisture like the AC cabinet was treated to a third coat of epoxy
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Most of the undercarriage has two wet coats of primer now rolled on. I will brush on some seam sealer where needed, then paint with epoxy. Then I'll move the saw horses supporting the thing and get the spots I missed
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So I got this sound proofing insulation stuff with an adhesive back for the generator compartment and the top of the frig compartment to give that thing a break from the heat. We'll soon see how it works
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Can you take a closer photo of the glides you put horizontal vs vertical. My thinks is they will pop with some weight on them.
It looks like a standard drawer glide and if you pull it apart the arm from the bearings. The only thing holding the weight is the bearings in the track. I’d suggest building a tray like in the burb or Teflon skids or I can go through a catalog at work and see but I am guessing your limited to height because of the cooler dimensions?
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Can you take a closer photo of the glides you put horizontal vs vertical. My thinks is they will pop with some weight on them.
It looks like a standard drawer glide and if you pull it apart the arm from the bearings. The only thing holding the weight is the bearings in the track. I’d suggest building a tray like in the burb or Teflon skids or I can go through a catalog at work and see but I am guessing your limited to height because of the cooler dimensions?
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Dave, they are of the same design as a drawer slide, I think, but way, way heavier.
I was pushing down on the slide with it extended, and I could get deflection, but that's it. Have you worked with the industrial slides? That's what these are, maybe 30-35 pounds for the pair.
I'll check all that out tomorrow when I get back from cutting firewood
And yes, had to go flat or I'd be sacrificing 3" height to get them in there vertical.
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Can you take a closer photo of the glides you put horizontal vs vertical. My thinks is they will pop with some weight on them.
It looks like a standard drawer glide and if you pull it apart the arm from the bearings. The only thing holding the weight is the bearings in the track. I’d suggest building a tray like in the burb or Teflon skids or I can go through a catalog at work and see but I am guessing your limited to height because of the cooler dimensions?
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Dave, they are of the same design as a drawer slide, I think, but way, way heavier.
I was pushing down on the slide with it extended, and I could get deflection, but that's it. Have you worked with the industrial slides? That's what these are, maybe 30-35 pounds for the pair.
I'll check all that out tomorrow when I get back from cutting firewood
And yes, had to go flat or I'd be sacrificing 3" height to get them in there vertical.
I have worked with lots of and many types
I pose you build a U shape tray to hold your cooler. You can save your height and continue to have the structural strength of the glides. Width would be sacrificed but... I think it’s worth it
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So is this a way to make money off the Air Force guys? ... this travelling Hilton on wheels?
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Can you take a closer photo of the glides you put horizontal vs vertical. My thinks is they will pop with some weight on them.
It looks like a standard drawer glide and if you pull it apart the arm from the bearings. The only thing holding the weight is the bearings in the track. I’d suggest building a tray like in the burb or Teflon skids or I can go through a catalog at work and see but I am guessing your limited to height because of the cooler dimensions?
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Dave, they are of the same design as a drawer slide, I think, but way, way heavier.
I was pushing down on the slide with it extended, and I could get deflection, but that's it. Have you worked with the industrial slides? That's what these are, maybe 30-35 pounds for the pair.
I'll check all that out tomorrow when I get back from cutting firewood
And yes, had to go flat or I'd be sacrificing 3" height to get them in there vertical.
I have worked with lots of and many types
I pose you build a U shape tray to hold your cooler. You can save your height and continue to have the structural strength of the glides. Width would be sacrificed but... I think it’s worth it
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That's not a bad idea.
Let me take some measurements
But not today...spent all day outside in the cold cutting trees down, then loading and stackin' firewood...I'm beat!
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Started today with sound proofing the gen compartment
Well, I'm sure "not soundproofing" but maybe taking a little of the buzz away
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I overlapped some but overall very easy to work with
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I ran the remainder of that sheet in the electrical compartment
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Then I went around every surface that will fit a door, hinge, vent, latch, or similar with single stage bed liner. Most of the surfaces will get coated over with the good two part urethane stuff in due course, but with wanting to get some reassembly of the doors and hatches done, I chose this method to get something permanent beneath all the hardware
The stuff sold at Harbor Freight, as inexpensive as it is, is the best stuff I used on my Chevy this year. I sprayed the bumpers early in the spring and after a spring/summer/fall and a lot of rough use, it has held up just great. It is even still shiney, so I am more than comfortable with using it for spotting in areas
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Then I took Dave's advice and removed and reinstalled the frig slides correctly.
He was right, and I was trying to get away with a fast one, but I want it strong and not some compromise.
First I had to fir out the compartment sides to fit the opening
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Just check out how beefy these slides are:
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Dave suggested I build a "U" shaped tray to retain as much height as possible, so that's what I did, and it turned out great, although I did lose some width.
I had my older pre-Ranger sit on the slide as I pulled it out and slid it in and it moved like greased hot butter!
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Then that compartment was treated to some sound proof/insulating blanket.
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Then I added the remaining insulation to the AC compartment and bolted that unit in for good
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I didn't feel like getting all covered with paint again, so I pressed ahead with mounting the battery. I made a tray from 3/4" ply which will soon be sprayed with bed liner or rubber...undecided
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I fashioned up a battery retainer and using those nut inserts drilled for 5/16" bolts to hold it all down.
I'm happy with how that turned out
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And that's how far along I got on this work day...
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Nice work Don. Since that is a standard battery, maybe add and absorbent pad under it. Adding that to my skid as sure it will get bounced around some, like your trailer.
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When I worked in the stereo shop business ( think long ago) we used the Dynamate product which has many others like it for sound deadening. Trunks, roofs, inside fenders. Everywhere that a box full of subwoofers would make rattle.
We used to use these to press In that type of liner.
NEICOTOOLS Heavy Duty Outside Radius Steel Seam Roller for RV Roofing Tape and Vinyl Plank Flooring (2" x 2") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q4S8TS9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DtagEb4N4PXEJ
MARSHALLTOWN The Premier Line E54D 2-Inch Flat Commercial Grade Solid Rubber Seam Roller with DuraSoft Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1EFKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BxagEbZ7TG3CC
They helped make it lay out a whole bunch. Ripping the foil didn’t make any difference in sound transfer or rattling.
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Then I took Dave's advice and removed and reinstalled the frig slides correctly.
He was right, and I was trying to get away with a fast one, but I want it strong and not some compromise.
First I had to fir out the compartment sides to fit the opening
lions have lain down with lambs!! Say what!!?? Dave was right???
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Then I took Dave's advice and removed and reinstalled the frig slides correctly.
He was right, and I was trying to get away with a fast one, but I want it strong and not some compromise.
First I had to fir out the compartment sides to fit the opening
lions have lain down with lambs!! Say what!!?? Dave was right???
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Once! That's only one in a row...
Don't make it anymore than it is...;-))
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I have proof of other time, screenshots
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I guess this build has become much more the collaborative effort.
I just got a heavy box of 60 mil EPDM Rubber matt, 10 X 15 I think.
And I ordered a gallon of the purpose made adhesive and for some strange reason, they sent me 4 gallons of the stuff.
So, the rubber covered roof would be a direct result of input I got from Tex, I believe.
Some things you folks will know far better than I because of personal experience. I am the only person who knows what I want and need, so that's my part.
At the end of this season, I want to own and operate one super cool homemade creation that is 100% useful, and actually gets used.
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Here is the 2000W/4000W inverter...Big sucker!
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While working around the electrical installation, I mounted a 30 amp shore power receptacle in the side of the AC cabinet
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The fitted the electrical compartment door.
I found some #8 panhead screws at "Nuttys" and used them in 3/4" and 1" length
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Then I mounted the remaining hatches/doors
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Next I got after the main power distribution/fuse panel. I chose a 55 amp unit made for the RV market
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I will mount it in the crew compartment sunk into the bulkhead between it and the electrical compartment. To facilitate that, I fashioned a mounting collar from 3/4" material to properly space it for the final position
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Here is the location, already drilled in and marked out for cutting
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As has become the technique, I used nut plates so that I will have a solid and permanent installation utilizing #10 machine screws
A dab of glue applied before "Setting" them insures they will stay put
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It's slowly coming together
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Don are you adding any vents to the roof for airflow in temperate weather?
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Vents-and-Fans/Fantastic-Vent/FV801208.html?feed=npn&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgebwBRDnARIsAE3eZjSLKedeA2Hq8LhuBekY1YkHOe3GVNKMmENbjs1Na-O7B_3b3NVbpWIaAkWGEALw_wcB
https://youtu.be/PUYgEZxxVDY
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Charles, he should have one of those from the tac topper demolition
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Ooh. Shots fired!
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Who locked this thing :facepalm:
Didn't I see a 12v fan earlier?
Is that a pure or modified wave inverter?
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Don are you adding any vents to the roof for airflow in temperate weather?
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Vents-and-Fans/Fantastic-Vent/FV801208.html?feed=npn&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgebwBRDnARIsAE3eZjSLKedeA2Hq8LhuBekY1YkHOe3GVNKMmENbjs1Na-O7B_3b3NVbpWIaAkWGEALw_wcB
https://youtu.be/PUYgEZxxVDY
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Yes, I posted pics of the roof fan unit way back when I was building it, did you miss it?
Fantastic RV fan...
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Charles, he should have one of those from the tac topper demolition
Actually the shawn is korrekt!
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Who locked this thing :facepalm:
Didn't I see a 12v fan earlier?
Is that a pure or modified wave inverter?
No klueee. Sine wave, clear, pure or methodist, who kares? Its a converter! Or something like that...
Cops...same as NCO's...
Actually, is there something I should have known before I purchased the thing, burned up the box, and tossed the receipt?
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Pure sign wave, better for electronics in the long run. Modified will work, but some elec don't like at all.
Hey, I remembered the fan. That's better than some NCO's.
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Pure sign wave, better for electronics in the long run. Modified will work, but some elec don't like at all.
Hey, I remembered the fan. That's better than some NCO's.
VERY true!
And I'll check to see what I bought...
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Electrical distribution center installed
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Perfect fit in the electrical compartment
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On top of that goes the large inverter
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A little detail work here. I drilled the holes into the battery hold down to help contain the coming birds nest of wires. My goal is to keep things neat and sorted
I then bolted in a 100 amp shunt from the hot side of the battery just in case
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And put in a ground through the bulkhead that will attach to the generator and the chassis as well as other components
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The goal today was to get a lot of things hung onto the various walls so that I could start to figure out how to run the wires
Here is the on demand water heater, a propane unit, it actually runs on two D-cell batteries. But its position then defines where the pump and water lines will run
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The water pump seemed best placed on the underside of the upper shelf/kids bed area
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I had previously coated the AC vent panels with paint and bed liner. I mounted those
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And the shore power attachment
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Starting to run wires, stemming off of the power center will be a right and left trunk that will exit through the two holes shown here
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And exit to a wiring "Artery" system that consists of adjacent pieces of 3/4" material. The wires will be stapled in the resulting channel, then when complete, the void will be sprayed with an expanding foam, allowed to cure, then sawn/sanded flush before covering with the interior panel
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And here comes the very first wire:
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Busy man on the job! Looking good, like thinking out of the box for the pump.
Where do the cannons fold out. Need some self defense.
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Two questions.
Why are you going to spray foam the wire compartment? Wouldn’t that impede further expansions for for what reason? Damage wire that needs replaced?
Need to add power to a side light for the kitchen oops I foamed my wire tray.
Second.
Where are the links to these things?
Water pump:
Electric inverter:
Water heater powered by D cell batteries and propane? :
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Don, can you add some more sound proofing or mounting rubber for the water pump area? Those things can be quite noisy.
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Don, Dave is on a roll. Yes I think a conduit would be ideal so you can pull wires after the fact. Or a removable panel so you can access the channel later..
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Don, Dave is on a roll. Yes I think a conduit would be ideal so you can pull wires after the fact. Or a removable panel so you can access the channel later..
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I think with his wood interior it would look just fine to skin over the gap with his 3/4 strips he used. Just simply hide the wires inside.
I am going to actually run metal conduit on my walls when wall covering is done. I did see one where a guy polished copper pipe and ran that as conduit. It looked cool for sure
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Don, can you add some more sound proofing or mounting rubber for the water pump area? Those things can be quite noisy.
That's a good idea Bob
I just ordered a couple more rolls of the stuff. I'll pad the top side of the panel which will dampen vibrations
Note: Should not be running while I am getting my beauty sleep, only when I'm cookin' or washin'...
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Two questions.
Why are you going to spray foam the wire compartment? Wouldn’t that impede further expansions for for what reason? Damage wire that needs replaced?
Need to add power to a side light for the kitchen oops I foamed my wire tray.
Second.
Where are the links to these things?
Water pump:
Electric inverter:
Water heater powered by D cell batteries and propane? :
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here, got ya some links:
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Don, Dave is on a roll. Yes I think a conduit would be ideal so you can pull wires after the fact. Or a removable panel so you can access the channel later..
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I think with his wood interior it would look just fine to skin over the gap with his 3/4 strips he used. Just simply hide the wires inside.
I am going to actually run metal conduit on my walls when wall covering is done. I did see one where a guy polished copper pipe and ran that as conduit. It looked cool for sure
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I thought about running a piece of 1/2" PEX in there for future growth...donno. May be over thinkin' it.
Let me think about it a little
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I don’t think you need conduit but a simple piece of 1/4 inch ply over the two pieces of 3/4x3/4 like in this photo.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200114/8dc763883fdd61696bd9ac3a715c11ff.jpg)
Just simply cover the wires, reasoning I say anything is you mentioned spray foaming the wires. Did you mean just the entry hole into the cabin of the trailer?
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:popcorn: and more coffee
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I don’t think you need conduit but a simple piece of 1/4 inch ply over the two pieces of 3/4x3/4 like in this photo.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200114/8dc763883fdd61696bd9ac3a715c11ff.jpg)
Just simply cover the wires, reasoning I say anything is you mentioned spray foaming the wires. Did you mean just the entry hole into the cabin of the trailer?
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I was going to foam up the whole cavity since I'l have 3/4" foam board everywhere else.
The 3/4" wood pieces are essentially nailers for the 1/8"-1/4" panel that will go on last. Plus those channels could become homes for unwanted critters
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Looking good. I run a modified wave inverter in the freightliner for my fridge. It dont seem to mind it. I will be installing another one in my camper hooked to six 6 volt golf cart batteries to run that fridge. That will limit run time on the generator.
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FYI for fridge loads. I have small fridge upstairs with internal freezer, about 3cf.
Monitored all summer with a wattmeter and it draws 370mw all the time, opened little. At that rate a good battery would run it for days. Well figure 500watts if you open it time to time x 24hrs and you get 12 amp hours. Figure your battery will give up about 70% before inverter shutdown. So a 100 amp battery should last about 5 days.
Any inverter should run it fine, its electronics that don't like a modified wave (most common and cheaper)
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Good info gents, danke'
Today's update hits a solid 2 on the 1-10 fun meter.
More surface prep and painting.
I sort of switch it up frequently to keep things interesting and tend to put off the monotonous stuff until it just needs to get done.
Here I have filled all the holes with the body filler and getting to the numerous screw holes one at a time
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Having achieved a point where the gaps were mostly filled and the contours were sanded in, I slapped on a coat of primer to see where it stood with respect to getting a top coat.
I will top coat with a good paint before covering with the 60 mil EPDM stuff
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I filled some of the seams in the top panel and removed protruding screws, and pushed others a bit deeper into the panel to make room for filler, so that is tracking nicely. The back is maybe 70% right now and the right side a bit further along.
Not long for the Epoxy coat now
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Looking good
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I added some tail lamp base plates. Theory here is making the thing removable from the outside which would be easier than fishing around inside and behind all manner of stuff. Lens attaches to the base, and the base screws to the body
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I spent some time installing nut inserts for 5/16" X 18 bolts where the awning will bolt to on the side of the roof over the door and kitchen area
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Made up this quickie tool to utilize a bolt and dc impact to seat the nuts. I apply glue to the things first which dries and makes the final installation secure
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You can see them spaced about every 18" down the side of the top
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Then more were installed on the right rear for the future folding shower apparatus
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Finally the water filler and shower head unit also got nut-serts for the #10 X 24 machine screws. Once the glue hardens, I'll grind the exposed flanges even with the sides
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Next up the stiffeners and reinforcement plates for the upcoming spare tire mount were created from 3/4" ply. That will create a sandwich construction that is 2 1/4" thick
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The holes will connect to an outside steel plate that will be a base for the spare tire/wheel
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The threaded nut inserts installed and glued to the inside of the inside panel
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Inside plate going in. It was glued and screwed to the back wall
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I wasn't bashful with the wood glue!
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Well, that's another piece of this puzzle in the bag!
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Cut out the roof for the fantastic fan
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Now on my third bottle of this stuff and on the second gallon of the regular wood glue
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The roof is finally to a point where it got its first coat of primer
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And so did all these parts
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Hard to see because of the over exposure, but all the inside structure that may remotely be exposed to the elements got a coat of primer as well
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Next I went after some of the seams that needed filling. This polyurethane product is waterproof and paintable
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I went crazy with the stuff running out well before completely sealing all the seams. I didn't even get to the underside, so off to Menards for a couple more tubes...
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And since it calls for drilling some holes that will penetrate to the outside, I started running some of the plumbing
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To keep the 1/2" PEX lines from moving around too much I created these mounting blocks to capture the lines and rigidly affix them to the body
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And the first line is the supply line from the tank to the pump
You can see one of the pillow blocks holding the line fast to the back wall
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Started running the hot water lines as well
First one runs over to the kitchen closet where it will terminate and turn into a flex line routed to a spigot
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At this point the primer coats had dried, so I applied a coat of the gray porch and deck paint. This will be the surface that I apply the Dicore glue to, which will cement the rubber roof material in place
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Got a coat on some other parts as well
And that is it for the roof, minus the rubber membrane and glue
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The paint color is a light gray. I change colors with each layer so I can see to get good coverage.
I threw the balance in the roller pan onto the side for good measure, but frankly, it will only get sanded.
Now that most of the body is painted, the next step is to fill and correct imperfect areas, then sand it all to get it smooth, and then finally, finally, I can spray on the Urethane bed liner
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Are you really not gonna let me know what the brand or model of the water heater is?
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Looking at the pictures, I think it’s a Gasland AS150. We Dave’s gotta stick together.
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Nice job on the water lines. My trailer, take off the coroplast bottom and uncover a rats nest of wires and plumbing.
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When Don builds, you don't need armor.
Question, venting the heater, where?
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Looking at the pictures, I think it’s a Gasland AS150. We Dave’s gotta stick together.
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Thank you Dave. Your a gentleman and all around nice person
I didn’t see the pictures in post #644 image 5656. That does give a clear photo:)
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Are you really not gonna let me know what the brand or model of the water heater is?
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No David. Gas something...
I'll see if I can remember to snap a pic of the box mon amis
Kool?
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When Don builds, you don't need armor.
Question, venting the heater, where?
Heck, didn't think about that!
Good one JR
I'll check to see. But in any event I know of no scenario that it may be running with someone inside and not aware. It only runs when someone turns on some hot water. But venting would be easy peasy, have to read up, and I'm working in that area at the moment.
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Second.
Where are the links to these things?
here, got ya some links:
That's funny as heck
Trailer's coming along great!
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Still feel you need a metal liner for those wheel wells. Hate to see rocks and such doing their thing to that wood.
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Still feel you need a metal liner for those wheel wells. Hate to see rocks and such doing their thing to that wood.
Noted...
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First of all
Dave
Here is the instant water heater info:
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Time to set up and check the generator for fit and plumbing.
It's the Predator brand 2K unit featuring quiet operation, 1600 continuous and 2000 peak watts and a 12 hour run time on 1 gallon at 25% demand
It looks to be well sorted and built
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The cover comes off with three screws
I am using a full synthetic oil engineered for small air cooled motors. THis little guy takes just 1/3 quart which is kind of scary to me
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The operators manual is fitted to a waterproof sleeve and taped to the wall of the gen compartment
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And it fits!
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I covered the door with the sound deadener and added a second layer to softly cradle the generator during movement
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The foam alone seals the door, but my plan is to trim it away and add real weather stripping
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And the area between the gen and the electrical compartment holds 25 feet of 12-3 cable which will allow me to position the generator 20 or so feet away when not in california and other high crime regions.
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The poly sealant is starting to set up but still very pliable.
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I covered the frig compartment door with the insulating material as well
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The outside shower unit was temporarily installed so the plumbing could be sorted
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Started with two 90 degree swivel to 1/2" PEX fittings
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Finished the left rear piping, and connected the pump to the water tank
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Then over some time experimenting settled on this simple plumbing installation to connect everything up
There's still a few things to plug in, but they will be simple cut and splice additions
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Hot and cold supply lines are plumbed to the kitchen fold out. I'll terminate them with some fitting, then connect them to a folding faucet
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For tonight's installment, there won't be one!
Don installed a bunch of chicken n' dumplin's in himself and just felt like kickin' back and watch the night come into view
But we can discuss a couple of things
Bigger purchases coming up
Tires/wheels
Horizontal frig
Some thoughts. First sizing: The Frig needs to fit a space that is 36" deep X 21.5" tall X 19" wide at the base and 21.5" wide just above the drawer
The tires should be 35" to match the size of the Burb, and the wheels share the same 8 on 6.5"
Beyond that, at this point anything is possible. THe cooler I purchased before is too large, given the changes I had to make to the frig slide.
I was thinking about an inexpensive AT tire and steelie wheels. Keeps the cost down and can still be used as a spare for the burb
Looked at a couple friges, seem to be stuck in the 65 quart arena. the one I like the best is the IceCo 65 for 65 liters or 68 quarts
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Don, curious as to the source on the fridge. I like it.
Lots of good progress. Starting to come together nicely.
Also, regardless of when water runs, I would really suggest getting the venting figured out on that heater
In reading a bit on it, assuming I looked at the right model, it is direct vent outdoor only. That area above the vent is going to get really hot and if there are any clothing, bedding, curtains, etc, near it the risk of fire is real.
Its outdoor rated, so couldn’t you surface mount it next to the spare tire on the other side of the wall there and plumb through?
Also, If I read correctly its not suitable for altitudes above 2000 ft? Just remember to include a valve under the outlet and inlet to drain the water out of it in sub 32 weather.
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I really like the cooler also. Group purchase?
Tires. I believe you sad in previous you wanted to upsize tires on the burb to 37’s. If I am not correct? I’d say stay the same wheel and tire combo on both so they can all be rotated. Easier to rotate a set of trailer tires in to daily use and not let them dry rot like so many trailer tires do.
I thought you were mounting that shower on the outside in one of the boxes you painted already?
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Why not mount the heater on a door (have enough of them, whats 1 more) Like the kitchen or Gen? Another option are quick connects and just hang it on the outside when needed.
Cooler and the tire ideas are good. Get good use out of them and something you can find if needed on the road. Plus that's a real fridge, not these 30 degree cooler than ambient things.
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I guess we could always see how warm and what toxic fumes come off by starting this thing up. Than since most things are exposed in the build already re configure if needed. Looking back at photos I think the location I though it was going is what your using for the kitchen sink cabinet area.
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The water heater may just need a heat shield and vent like on the generator. Looks like May vent above the unit and be a simple tweak.
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https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/forklift/propane.html
CO and CO2 in the sleeping quarters is no bueno.
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I really like the cooler also. Group purchase?
Tires. I believe you sad in previous you wanted to upsize tires on the burb to 37’s. If I am not correct? I’d say stay the same wheel and tire combo on both so they can all be rotated. Easier to rotate a set of trailer tires in to daily use and not let them dry rot like so many trailer tires do.
I thought you were mounting that shower on the outside in one of the boxes you painted already?
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Burb tire size: I am going to stay with 35's to keep the overall size and height no more than what it is. I may, however, change the gear ratio in the future back to 4.56 to take the edge off, but in the grand scheme of things, I could just drive slower or put up with the higher RPM. I suppose the proof is in the pudding that will become self evident once I start driving it in its final supercharged incarnation.
Group purchase on the ICECO, maybe, I could check. Would you be in for sure? These are not inexpensive. I am switching to the IV75 model which is all frig and no freezer in the same size package but 10 more liter capacity, and that is listing at $806
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Don, curious as to the source on the fridge. I like it.
Lots of good progress. Starting to come together nicely.
Also, regardless of when water runs, I would really suggest getting the venting figured out on that heater
In reading a bit on it, assuming I looked at the right model, it is direct vent outdoor only. That area above the vent is going to get really hot and if there are any clothing, bedding, curtains, etc, near it the risk of fire is real.
Its outdoor rated, so couldn’t you surface mount it next to the spare tire on the other side of the wall there and plumb through?
Also, If I read correctly its not suitable for altitudes above 2000 ft? Just remember to include a valve under the outlet and inlet to drain the water out of it in sub 32 weather.
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Tex, you have some good and valid points.
To be transparent here, I didn't dig that deep into the purchase, and now, I must say, that may be the wrong model for interior mounting. I missed that completely, thinking it wouldn't matter given that shower and cooking activities occur mostly when one is outside, but what if?
I'm going to have to really look at this.
I see possibilities of:
1. Testing, to see how hot the exhaust is on the adjacent panels
and then doing nothing or changing it out
2. Moving it to an enclosure outside, perhaps below the right hand tail lamp.
3. Getting a unit designed for interior mounting
4. Giving the pre-rangers the sawzall and turn the whole project into firewood
Hmmm... ;-)
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https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/forklift/propane.html
CO and CO2 in the sleeping quarters is no bueno.
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I know
1976 or 1977 a tank recovery vehicle (M-88) crew turned on the heater and went to sleep. It was the winter in Grafenwoehr, Germany. The following morning we discovered all four of them dead, inside a warm vehicle...Carbon monoxide
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The water heater may just need a heat shield and vent like on the generator. Looks like May vent above the unit and be a simple tweak.
This may be the ticket...Good suggestion
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ICECO group buy...started another thread, register if interested
http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=4344.0
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They do make co2 monsters for really cheap. Maybe ya buy one and mount it anyway. Some obnoxious gas from personnel could set off also lol
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I'm using this handy and proven Eureka propane gas stove. To get it to fit into the kitchen workplace I constructed two new feet from angle aluminum
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And it fits well into the space vacated by sliding out the sink shelf
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Going to have to sort out the gas line which comes out on the wrong side to make things easy
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It will store in the kitchen closet along with other pots/pans and utensils
Remember the angle aluminum base which extends a lip out one end? Well that will slip into this groove to hold the bottom in place
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Next the whole thing was lined with the insulating adhesive mat
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Then the hot/cold water supply was stubbed out into two male 1/2" NPT fittings
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...Which are held securely in this block of Walnut
It is a two part clamp that can be split to mount, then the top screws through the base into the back board
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That stove needed a top something that would hold it securely against the aluminum blanket. This apparatus has two arms which are assembled in such a manner as to create a friction fit and require force to pivot the arms. Otherwise gravity holds them in the correct position to hold the stove in place. They actually fit snugly against the stove and nothing is moving at all
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And that works quite nicely!
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To secure the large pancake grill plate, I used a section of wood with a 45 degree slot to capture one side, and another pivoting arm to capture the other side
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And with all those additions, everything still fits with a closed door
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Next up is a fixture destined to hold a collection of camping pots and pans
Which
Was still clamped up and drying when this build day ended
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How large is that stove? It’s either really small or the box you have made to hold the kitchen stuff is massive. With that grill in there it looks like a doll house toy compared to the cabinet!!
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Good place for the water heater,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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How large is that stove? It’s either really small or the box you have made to hold the kitchen stuff is massive. With that grill in there it looks like a doll house toy compared to the cabinet!!
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Its not all that big, just a standard Eureka two burner. Quite efficient actually
Get both burners going and it will cook a bunch of silver dollars or two big flapjacks at a time
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Timbren suspension arrived this morning, did a chilly lift off the truck tailgate with ma traktore and shoved them into the garage.
Then went inside and ordered three brandilly knew Mr. Richard Cepek extreme country 35 X 17 tires and tree pro-komp whals in the 8 bolt patten n' 9 inches wide fitment, mit der 4.75 back spacin'
Next, measure and order der steal, den start makin' some electricity into sparks!
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Korrecktion. Order the pressure treated 2X4's for da frame. Spray on termite pruffin and slop on some thompson's deck seal and I'll be ah' wheelin'
;-)
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Not that it might matter but all the trailer wheels I have had were/are 0 offset.
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Not that it might matter but all the trailer wheels I have had were/are 0 offset.
Maybe for the trailer, but I think he is going for universal use on these. Kinda like the 1011 trailer with H1 tires for my sub.
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True but I believe what Bob is hinting at is the bearings are designed to have 0 offset and any offset places stress on bearings leading to potential early wear
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True but I believe what Bob is hinting at is the bearings are designed to have 0 offset and any offset places stress on bearings leading to potential early wear
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ding ding ding! but I get his perspective. cut a tire on the truck, you can ditch the trailer w/ 3 wheels, borrow a shoe and head to town to fix it up
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I actually was wondering about clearance in the wheel wells. wide tires and negative offset could lead to tire problems as well as the additional wear to bearings. But then again unless he actually uses the trailer it will never be a problem.
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Come on now, it’s made of ply wood. Just get out the sawzall and mak em fit!
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I actually was wondering about clearance in the wheel wells. wide tires and negative offset could lead to tire problems as well as the additional wear to bearings. But then again unless he actually uses the trailer it will never be a problem.
Wow, shots fired, lol.
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True but I believe what Bob is hinting at is the bearings are designed to have 0 offset and any offset places stress on bearings leading to potential early wear
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I'm planning on using hardened wood bearings. They should handle the strain.
The spindles are 5200 lbs rated, fitted to a beefed up 3500 lb trailing arm all carrying, what, 3000lbs???
I think the bearings will be just fine
And if not, well, I'll replace them and I was wrong
You people...!!! ;-))
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I actually was wondering about clearance in the wheel wells. wide tires and negative offset could lead to tire problems as well as the additional wear to bearings. But then again unless he actually uses the trailer it will never be a problem.
Believe me, Bob, I have wondered about this myself many times.
So
I plan to just fit the stuff as I go. Now that I have the Timbren parts, and today will have the tires and wheels, I plan to build in that area of the frame, then set everything in there the way I want it to fit, then place the frame member that the trailing arms actually bolt to in the desired position.
I could have possibly cadd'd the thing to get dimensions, but it seems I am the type who measures with a micrometer, marks with a crayon, then cuts with a chainsaw and an axe!
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True but I believe what Bob is hinting at is the bearings are designed to have 0 offset and any offset places stress on bearings leading to potential early wear
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ding ding ding! but I get his perspective. cut a tire on the truck, you can ditch the trailer w/ 3 wheels, borrow a shoe and head to town to fix it up
Well, the trailer wheels/tires are the exact same tire/wheel currently sitting on the Burb. I have a spare for the burb as we all know, and I have a spare for the trailer. Gives redundancy and lessens the chance I'll run out of inflated tires. As for the bearings, remember these bearings are oversized for the 8-lug setup, whereas this trailer could get away with 5 lug. So, in a sense, the bearings I am using are upsized two sizes larger than needed and would be 2 or three times more capacity than called for. Again, I think we will be fine. Timbren thought so and also thought this setup was overkill for the application.
Since no bushhogs are involved in the operation of this camper, it just may actually survive!
;-)
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The tires showed up too!
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Three mixing bowls, err, I mean center caps for a Pro Comp 1069 wheel. $1,000 each or free, your choice to anyone who wants them
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Stack of Timbren suspension and electric brakes
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Here's that pot rack mounted in the kitchen cabinet
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That's quite the stack of cooking, eating, and drinking vessels
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So here is the faucet loosely attached to the supply fittings. I think I either got the wrong part or ordered the wrong faucet, because the pipe swivels, but the base does not pivot, so I'll have to get creative with the mounting of that thing.
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To start with something I glued up this stack of Chestnut which has a hole the size of the mounting bib in the first two pieces, then a larger one in the remaining three to allow for the nut to tuck inside the cavity. Once all this business dries, I think I'll cut it into some angle and find a way to mount it to the table so that it allows everything to still fit and have the door securely close
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Since that was drying, I unrolled the EPDM Rubber onto the roof to allow it to settle out prior to cutting and gluing
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This is the 60 mil stuff
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And here is the Dicor, the proper adhesive for rubber against a porous wood surface. I took it out of the freezer where it was stored safely for a couple weeks ;-)
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Crank up the heater!
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The technique is to apply the adhesive with a paint roller onto both the surface and the EPDM. Put the tow together by rolling the rubber sheet over the glue surface. Then I rolled the dry side of the rubber with a fresh paint roller to push out all the air pockets and get a good contact. It worked!
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Front half done
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Repeat the process on the back half and just like that you're all done
With Caveat
I only glued to the flat surfaces. I have to study and learn how to glue up the sides and corners since there is a heavy flap there that may need some special cut.
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Found the generator tool kit about to get chewed up by the new f#$)!@#!! puppy, so I snatched it, literally out of the jaws of death and taped it to the door of the Gen compartment.
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Then I popped a couple of shut off valves to control water supply to the kitchen faucet
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1st attempt at a wash basin failed miserably. Just a tad too big I think!
It's a 30 quart. I just ordered a 24 quart. See if that fits better
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So, anyone know how to paint rubber?
Can it be done?
I'd like to make that a light gray to prevent summer heat build up.
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Roof looks great. Good choice IMO.
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I like the roof, I wouldn’t paint it.....
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You can get a white EDM coating for it almost anywhere.
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You can get a white EDM coating for it almost anywhere.
Hmmm. If I can get white, I may be able to tint it.
So when I install the solar panels and maybe a hard deck somewhere to stand on, I'd want to put something on the "feet" to pad it. Was thinking I'd glue on some of the left over rubber pad. But I could paint that and get a partial coverage without painting everything.
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Have to get the belly painted and coated so I can set it down.
Then job 1 will be to figure out the roof raising/assist system. Those electric actuators would do it, but are active and require electrons. Gas cylinders would be passive and need nothing except for the parked/capture clamps to be released...
Measuring for steel this morning. Ready to order that. So 1" X 1" is G-T-G?
;-)
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It’s a good laugh but if you could spread out the load a bit from the timbren mounts it’s would probably be fine.....
If you’ve ever looked under an aluminum (exiss) enclosed trailer it’s what they do by have a subframe of steel for the axle mounts that bolt to the aluminum structure.
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Roger, 1'x1'
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Here is the generator extension cable with an incorporated ground wire. Used the wire loom sheath to keep it all organized and spiral wrapped the ground wire around the 12 gage cable
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Using a spare new extension instead of the romex, connected the shore power to the hot bus
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I may have to disconnect the cables and redo if I find out this box uses bulkhead fittings, but I obviously didn't have any, and, its plastic, so no shorting on the case is possible anyway
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I'm using sheathed clamps to keep cables about where I want them to stay
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NExt, I threw in some LED light fixtures made for marine use in some cabinets
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The kitchen, pantry...
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Then the electrical compartment
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And then this simple GFCI outlet that plugs directly into the large inverter to supply power to the air conditioner and the frig
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Keeping the wiring straight
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And noticed a good spot to mount a lamp I could use to illuminate forward if I had to fuss with the gas bottle or something else in the front
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Photo quality is poor, but the inverter powered up when I switched on the remote controller. And for the first test, I turned on the air conditioner...It worked!
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I came up with these rotating dogs to help hold the wires in place while I pull and sort them
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Here is how that faucet mounting block is progressing:
I need to purchase a folding faucet, this one was the wrong part
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Got both sides of the top EPDM glued down. That Dicor can be tricky to work with. when both sides are wet, the rubber will not stick. However as the glue cures a little the adhesion picks up a bunch. So the trick is to keep going back after it over a couple of hours
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Piddling around, I screwed a piece of aluminum stock onto the inside of the electrical compartment latch to get a very positive engagement
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I went over the whole body again covering whatever holes were not blended in and touching up any areas that showed a defect. The front was still not perfect, so it got some bondo too
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While that was curing, I got after the main electrical panel where I will control things
I created a box that has the panel front cut into the face.
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So, that will have to set up overnight, so next, the faceplate was created after tracing out holes for the inverter controller, Solar panel charge controller, four switches, a multifunction outlet and a reading lamp
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The whole thing got a coat of bondo to fill in the imperfections
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About two thirds of the camper panels got sanded to smooth out the panels and blend in what may be the final coat of bondo
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You may have noticed that I covered the polyurethane seam sealer with two coats of bedliner material to seal that
My little assistant never stopped asking questions! :cool:
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Then two more coats of exterior paint. I am nearing completion of body prep prior to spraying the urethane rhino liner top coat
So time to ask for some opinions.
Regarding the color of the camper, I have tintable base material which can be made into any color I can imagine. I either want to coat it in the 2020 Toyota, "Army Green" color, or go with the same color that's on the burb, the dark gray metallic.
I was all gung ho on the green, but it would look pretty tasteful mirroring the color of the truck. Make it look like a complete camping/overland system
Opinions?
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I was thinking the green too, but if you can match the burb that would have my vote.
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I know it’s a long shot but tint isn’t going to match perfect. Any way to tint smaller portion to see how close the match is?
I like color matched but if it’s to far from identical it will look silly I think.
So maybe green is the solution. Or. Pink for breast cancer
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Assuming you won’t get the tint right or close enough go for a complimentary color.
Dave, pink is an interesting consideration. Not surprised it came from a guy named Dave. Begs the question though did momma give you instructions to paint your trailer pink? Thinking maybe you were hoping Don would do it so you could be twinning or something silly..... :popcorn:
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Nope mine is pre finished aluminum, White. I did try for an American flag wrap but she said no.
Grey floor, grey carpet walls and I won’t be doing any pink.
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I think the color can be made to be an exact match, although, the texture would be really different.
To tint this stuff, you have the paint store mix up some urethane base coat minus the additives that build volume. That concentrates the color pigment. They you mix a few ounces of the color into the bottle when you add part "B" and shake it all up.
Since last night, I had an idea of a two color scheme using the burb silver toward the front of the camper and breaking to the Army Green toward the back. Playing with that idea. Along with the black doors/window/top/trim and maybe some accent color somewhere, I think I could come up with something interesting. I'll play with the idea, but tending toward matching it to the burb for the "Integrated system" look to them hooked together.
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Married the electrical control center to the face panel. The photo makes the panel look messed up, but I think its the lighting, as it looks fine.
The components are mounted as well
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After separating them, the box was mounted to the inside wall. It will stand proud of the wall about 2" once the insulation and panel is installed
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The camper will sport two 100 watt Renogy PVC panels. After assembling the feet to the panel. I glued a patch of rubber to the roof side to keep any gauling from happening.
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They were attached to the right side of the roof straddling the central beam
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The wires will pass through the roof into that central beam which has an accessible cavity designed to hold these and other wiring
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Hooking up the wiring is easy. Male ends (+) and female ends make mixing up the two impossible until you get to the end of the wires which are identical. I marked mine with masking tape to ensure correct connections at the control panel
Using this coupler joins both panels together as one
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I did manage to connect all the wiring but forgot to route it through the roof cap waterproof fixture, so I'll get to redo some work tomorrow
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Next up, I cut out the roof fan access and set that in place for wiring, but did not fasten it down just yet. I need some sort of sealer which I don't have to make all of that waterproof
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The wiring is starting to get fitted
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The temp sensor measures battery temperature. Apparently the solar charger looks at the bat temp as a function of charging. I taped that sensor to the side of the battery using aluminum tape.
I'm working hard to keep this electrical compartment cleaned and organized. So far so good, although four more circuits have been added today
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Yunpo Butyl Sealant Tape 4M/13Ft Waterproof Butyl Rubber Sealant for Car Headlamps Window Door Windshield Butyl Tape Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRXRF9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hBooEbPJ60W4H
This is what I put around my windows. Not sure why it wouldn’t work for you.
Can you explain how you attached them to the roof? Did you use the second layer of rubber and screw into the roof or glue the rubber on?
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The upper device is a blue tooth device which connects the soral charger to my phone so that I can keep a watch on battery condition even when I'm not in the camper
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Yunpo Butyl Sealant Tape 4M/13Ft Waterproof Butyl Rubber Sealant for Car Headlamps Window Door Windshield Butyl Tape Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRXRF9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hBooEbPJ60W4H
This is what I put around my windows. Not sure why it wouldn’t work for you.
Can you explain how you attached them to the roof? Did you use the second layer of rubber and screw into the roof or glue the rubber on?
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Rubber pads are glued to the feet, then two #8 X 1" pan head screws attach each foot to the roof. I plan to glue some 3/4" blocks to the underside of the roof so that the screws will engage those in addition to the thin roof panel
Good call on the butyl tape! Forgot about that
Will run over to the RV store in the morning and score some along with some of that liquid rubber to seal the roof fan and screw heads
Thanks!
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We used to use a product called shoe goo for skateboarding things. Seemed to seal stuff really well. I also thought since it’s rubber. What about the rubber glue that you use on a bike tire tube to patch a hole. What about that as seem glue?
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https://www.campingworld.com/maintain-your-rv/rv-hardware-maintenance-repair/repair-maintenance/sealants-patches-caulk
For seams and bolt protrusions.
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Eternabond tape around the top of the vent flange and then cover with a self leveling lap sealer that is made for your roof material. Do not use silicone sealer. Self leveling lap sealer works really good on the roof, but use non sag lap sealer on vertical surfaces. Lap sealer does need to be checked a few times a year and touched up if showing cracking or pulling away from seams. You can apply over the old as long as you remove any loose material first.
And yes a good butyl strip between the flange on the vent and the roofing is important. The eternabond tape over the top edge is just good insurance and is not mandatory.
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The two 100watt panels on my container keep the batteries up easy (two 6v AGM) but they do not like even a moderate 800watt load (5 cup coffee pot), but they are older. They handle all my lights and chargers easy. 14.4 all day and 12.6 at rest.
Should run something on that setup to see what the battery/inverter will do so if you do need another battery you find out.
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I have what supposedly calculates to 10 kW of storage.
8 Trojan T 105 batteries.
1100 watts panels connected.
I can run my cabin like a house for one day in the summer with no sun.
One day in winter with a few hours of charger time @ 24 volt 25 amps.
Coffee microwave water plant etc. Like a house zero care about power.
Temperature is huge when we talk -30. Less so in heat, however heat is not good either above 80 or so.
200W of panel will maintain and run a lot on one battery but not AC for an hour I would guess.
Suggestion of a load test is a good idea.
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What battery monitor are you using? So you know how full the batteries are.
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My solar company owner brother in-law really wants me to buy these $500 batteries for my trailer
https://www.centennialbatteries.com/centennial-battery-cb6-400-6-volt-400-amp-hour-sealed-lead-acid-agm-battery
All of this solar stuff is way over my head
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AGM or lead acid still don't like under 50% use. AGM are good because they are sealed, no fumes but do not like heavy loads. LA don't mind heavy loads, but you get fumes and spill worries.
Wish the optima was as good as they used to be.
For full use of the power there look more to lithium. Lots of good info on youtube. High $ is not always the best.
That's great out of those batteries Sam. You inverter and use has a lot to do with it too.
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And I have mama trained not to deep cycle them.
24.3 is where the charger and generator is turned on.
Which is still fairly deep into state of charge.
I believe the ones I have are good for 500 cycles to 30% or about 23.6 volts.
The higher charge they say the more cycles they can take.
April 30 this year will be three years on these batteries. 1095 days, gosh would have to be close to 500 cycles I suppose. Anything beyond there is a bonus in my eyes as they have been used hard a lot whether hot or cold.
Three years was also my calculated break even point as well on the whole system. That included a new generator as mine has a bazillion hours on it and replacement was on my mind. I had even been shopping for one but held off in hopes this worked as well as it did.
But alas. Here we go inadvertently DOTing up a camper build.
I think I’ve only burned 5, 5 gallon cans of gas in the generator since turning this on.
Was burning one a weekend prior or more. Stale gas is now my problem rather than do I have enough.
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Can you get alcohol free gas there? I have some OLD gas in the TH with stabilizer, still runs fine.
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Yes. I only buy alcohol free. Spensive but I don’t want the ethanol.
Stabilizer helps but the Honda I2000 or whatever the heck it is doesn’t allow running the carb dry. Unless you run it out totally which can take hours. The premium is good for a few months alone and longer with stabilizer. I just switch the Jerry’s out for boat or sled to keep the bulk fresh.
Found an interesting battery calculator on the Trojan site just now.
I know what my new batteries will be next time. 4K+ cycles to boot 8 year warranty.
http://www.batterysizingcalculator.com
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Heck, the 2 cart batteries I got from Costco are just 1 year (interstate)
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Eternabond tape around the top of the vent flange and then cover with a self leveling lap sealer that is made for your roof material. Do not use silicone sealer. Self leveling lap sealer works really good on the roof, but use non sag lap sealer on vertical surfaces. Lap sealer does need to be checked a few times a year and touched up if showing cracking or pulling away from seams. You can apply over the old as long as you remove any loose material first.
And yes a good butyl strip between the flange on the vent and the roofing is important. The eternabond tape over the top edge is just good insurance and is not mandatory.
What you said Bob. Got some tubes of self leveling lap sealer going on today
Its another dicor product like the adhesive, only a sealer
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I have what supposedly calculates to 10 kW of storage.
8 Trojan T 105 batteries.
1100 watts panels connected.
I can run my cabin like a house for one day in the summer with no sun.
One day in winter with a few hours of charger time @ 24 volt 25 amps.
Coffee microwave water plant etc. Like a house zero care about power.
Temperature is huge when we talk -30. Less so in heat, however heat is not good either above 80 or so.
200W of panel will maintain and run a lot on one battery but not AC for an hour I would guess.
Suggestion of a load test is a good idea.
I think I'll be on the generator when running the AC. Simple enough, deploy it and pull the starter lanyard then instant AC
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What battery monitor are you using? So you know how full the batteries are.
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I have a couple of them Jon. The Renogy panel controller you see monitors several parameters of the battery. I have another separate independent battery monitor I have not talked about yet, that's coming up
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Wiring is coming together. But before one can wire stuff, that same one needs to install stuff. That being said, in go the taillights.
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Here is that putty stuff used to seal things added to the top of campers
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Slap it down, lay your fan or _____ on top, smush it down, screw it down, then trim the excess
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I was careful to slice up the rubber where I trimmed because I want to always be searching for pesky leaks!
Here is the Dicor product used to seal everything to rubber. Squeeze it on and it will slowly flow out some and make for a decent installation.
That stuff will stick to your T-shirt and chin, so just be prepared. I think working around this stuff is a lot like flipping a peanut butter sandwich with one side buttered. It will always fall peanut butter side down. You won't be able to catch it until you fumble it onto your chest, lap and one or both knees.
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Next I installed the second outside "porch" light and reinstalled the one by the door. They were later wired into the fuse panel
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A few more wires and it remains more or less organized
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The inside is staying organized, but I am accumulating some wires...
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Those movable dogs are making short work of creating wiring and keeping it organized.
I took the control panel, fitted two eyelets to the backside, then suspended it adjacent to the box. From this point I started connecting things.
It wasn't long before the PV panels actually started charging the battery from the shop lights!
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Some of this is looking messy, but having it in the "Exploded view" does not lend itself to tucking wires just yet
If I come back in the morning and a couple of mice have moved in, I'll do something about it!
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Most of the wires are marked for future reference and I'd have to think I am half way or a bit more toward completing the wiring
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Hey Don, your shore power plug is 30amp, yeah? Shouldn’t you use a 10 gauge romex for that to be sized properly to the 30amp potential?
You have the yellow stuff which is 12 gauge which is for 20amp max. Orange is 30 amp.
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Hey Don, your shore power plug is 30amp, yeah? Shouldn’t you use a 10 gauge romex for that to be sized properly to the 30amp potential?
You have the yellow stuff which is 12 gauge which is for 20amp max. Orange is 30 amp.
Yep
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Hey Don, your shore power plug is 30amp, yeah? Shouldn’t you use a 10 gauge romex for that to be sized properly to the 30amp potential?
You have the yellow stuff which is 12 gauge which is for 20amp max. Orange is 30 amp.
Ah Fuss!
One step forward, one step back...
and: Good catch!
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Since I'm wiring 30 amp circuits with 20 amp wire, I think I'll get busy installing the inside fire pit today! :facepalm:
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If the 30 amp supply goes to a distribution panel, and everything comes off the panel, and the plug- ins are 20 amp rated style, can't you just replace the wires from back of service plug to the panel to handle the 30 amps. The rest should be protected with 15 or 20 amp breakers. Don't know about the 12 volt side I don't do solar, and am only a diy not certified electrician.
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If the 30 amp supply goes to a distribution panel, and everything comes off the panel, and the plug- ins are 20 amp rated style, can't you just replace the wires from back of service plug to the panel to handle the 30 amps. The rest should be protected with 15 or 20 amp breakers. Don't know about the 12 volt side I don't do solar, and am only a diy not certified electrician.
Correct! Yea, that's all I'm going to do, replace the wire with a larger one...
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Back to the faucet, I ordered a new one, it came in, and I cut down the block and fitted it all together:
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Using this piece of angle and two oblique screws from the opposite side I secured it to the table
I had to remove and sand a slope into the side of the wash basin top slide out to clear the water handle
Poor pic, I know...
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It works well, but does not completely clear the aluminum arm which holds all that stuff up. I confess I don't like the arm anyway, so I'm going to remove it and just do a simple cable stay to hold it all level. Ideal? Not quite, but will it work? Better than your grandma bakin' apple fritters
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These 1/2" nipples are required so I can attach two extension lines to complete the water connection
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I also decided to add a master battery disconnect. With all the checking of things I'm doing at the moment, It would be nice to be able to shut the whole business down for maintenance or storage, or messing with the grandkids.
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I picked up a HD propane bottle mount and attached it using 5/16 X 18 thread adapters set and glued into the structure on the opposite side of the panel. It will rest on the frame proper once that thing magically appears
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Then came the smittybilt spare gas can mount. Five gallons along with the gallon in the topped up gen will allow for 60 hours of run time at 30% average load.
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The thing is getting busy!
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Several wiring items are completed. The solar is in, the inverter control panel is complete, one post light is complete. The fantastic fan is wiring complete. The outside porch lights are complete and much more is well in progress
This is the outlet box which will sit on the wall, opposite the door above a fold-up table leaf
It is constructed from the same wormy chestnut that I made the electrical monitor panel from
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The wiring chase on the right side is completed, but no wires are installed on that side just yet.
That's where I left it for tonight. I have a double lung infection that hit me Saturday. It has kicked my but and thank God that Duane prompted me to go to the doctors, because I think they caught it with an antibiotic just before I fell off the cart. As it is, I am good to sit in a chair inside this thing and wire away, But sanding or working panels or driving around is not in the cards at the moment.
Back at it in the morrow.
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Looking good Don. I still want to see the scale slip when it’s done. I bet its solid.
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Think with all this stuff on this thing, going to nickname it the Warthog, just like the A-10.
This thing has so much stuff on it or hanging from, can do so much and is about as aerodynamic as the A-10.
Not and Armee name for sure, but I like it!
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Looking good Don. I still want to see the scale slip when it’s done. I bet its solid.
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I want to see him shimmy it out the double doors of the wood shop...
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Looking good Don. I still want to see the scale slip when it’s done. I bet its solid.
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I want to see him shimmy it out the double doors of the wood shop...
I am not looking forward to that day
I'll have to move a support column holding up a steel beam, then use several hoists to bring up one side, then walk it onto a sled which I have to build. then use the tractor or possibly the winch on the Duramax truck to pull it through the doors. Once outside, again I'll have to use several hoisting and tension cables to roll it level, then finally lift it up about 36" and suspend it while I maneuver the frame beneath it.
It will be a day in itself to get it out and marry the two parts.
Maybe use a time delay camera, snapping a shot every 20 seconds or so.
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Delay video would be cool
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Maybe use a time delay camera, snapping a shot every 20 seconds or so.
Just don’t run over it with the tractor or c-max.
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Only if painted orange,,,,,,,,,,,
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Looking good Don. I still want to see the scale slip when it’s done. I bet its solid.
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I would bet its heavier than expected. I'm wondering if the axles are heavy enough.
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Looking good Don. I still want to see the scale slip when it’s done. I bet its solid.
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I would bet its heavier than expected. I'm wondering if the axles are heavy enough.
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I think they should be fine
They are officially "3500" lb axles
However Timbren builds two versions, a standard series and a heavy duty series.
The HD series which I am using use a thicker gage steel intended to absorb shock loads from off road and HD usage.
Then the spindle used is for a 5200 lb axle. I had to use that to accommodate the 8-lug hubs and brake stuff.
So if I had to guess, I'd say those axles are closer to being 5,000 lb axles than 3500 lb.
But just to be safe, I'm going to put helium in the tires and use "light" colors all over it
;-)
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So your "wood" camper is heavier than the burb?
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Aux receptacle box is a work in progress
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May not look like much but this thing is actually nearing completion
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Shouldn't be that much longer when I can shove it into the base and call it all done. I'll run everything through a through function and load test prior to buttoning up
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I now have the romex and 110VAC circuits at 90% complete
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Today I had two assistants instead of my usual one.
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This remote fuse block is starting to flesh out
Only a couple circuits left to install
To keep everything neat, I fashioned a strip of wood with cutouts on the backside to hold the wires flat and separated
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Using the light wire, I wired in some of the LED light circuits
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And set myself up with one more 110 Vac outlet.
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That right side wire chase got some color today.
This may not look like much but I spent eight solid hours nugging out the tedious chores.
I gotta get this done, I gotta get this done, I gotta get this done, I gott...
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You asst switching glasses or clothes?
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You asst switching glasses or clothes?
Those are my readers. They were just on my lap while I posted tonights update...Both wearing some reading glasses!
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Spigot lines are now connected
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And that aluminum arm device has been removed and replaced with a single steel cable. Everything fits and the thing closes up nicely
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All the wood parts got a coat of spar urethane
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The rubber cement came in so I cut and glued down the epdm corners
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Then I covered over that with butyl rubber repair tape that has adhesive on one side. The corners came our snug and well covered
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Next the solar panel cables were cut and rerouted through the proper fixture to transition from inside to the outside environment completing the solar installation
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Then I taped down the power cables permanently to the roof with the butyl tape.
That dicor flows out well
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Then I created a storage compartment for the water filter that would be attached to the water filler neck when replenishing the H2O tank
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The electrical outlet box is finished and ready to throw in. This will get me to finished with the 115VAC circuit...except that I am thinking about adding an exterior outlet in the pantry to possibly power a coffee pot
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Just got a little 5cup unit from Wally for $10. Works good and only draws 800watts (110v)
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Might add some of this to your mess. 100ft - 1 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving - BlackRed - Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GM133X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_713qEbHFHNRTH
Thinking the Hot and Cold braided lines might be better managed held together. We used lots of it while wiring antenna for your flying machines.
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Besides that, leaving connectors in the open, on the roof to bounce around??
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Might add some of this to your mess. 100ft - 1 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving - BlackRed - Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GM133X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_713qEbHFHNRTH
Thinking the Hot and Cold braided lines might be better managed held together. We used lots of it while wiring antenna for your flying machines.
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Good call!
I've seen that stuff on many preflights
I just ordered 25 feet of each size...And not too late to get it in there before covering...
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Besides that, leaving connectors in the open, on the roof to bounce around??
JR, I considered covering them, but you can't budge them. With the bulkhead housing and the wires taped down those connectors are solid and don't move at all
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Long as you're happy with the warthog :grin:
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Assembling the outlet receptacle box for the right side
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And that's in!
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This "electrical panel" will get the lacquered black treatment
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I installed a 110VAC outlet in the pantry box for possible use outside...coffee maker?
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Getting power to the circuits
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Things are turning on...about half way or a bit more at this point.
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Map light operational. I have it switched, but it is also a tap on/tap off lamp
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Creating another electrical panel
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Started the polyurethane build up of the pantry shelf
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Then gave this side its final coat of paint following working the body filler and sanding for the last time
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Don are you not using plastic or metal electrical boxes around your 110v outlets?
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Don are you not using plastic or metal electrical boxes around your 110v outlets?
Nope, sure aren't
Space is so limited, essentially the box the outlets mount in are the receptacle boxes. Another box would just be the department of redundancy department. It all fits nice and snugly
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The next box turned out well. Kind of what I was just talking about, the box is the box...
The finishing technique I am using is to finish the object with body plastic, sanding to smooth. Then three coats of black epoxy. I follow that the next day with another coat of paint. I sand that when it's dry and spray with two coats of spar urethane.
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Final coat of epoxy on everything except for one big patch on the belly where it rests on the table. That's next, then the bed liner
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The rear map light and receptacle box is in, screwed down to its base
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What kind of armor are you putting on this Don? Metal rock sliders? Metal rear bumper?
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Then I completed the wiring in the main electrical condition monitor panel and screwed the face panel to the cabinet. I then covered the upward bound cable in that flex weave stuff that Dave recommended. It works very well.
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What kind of armor are you putting on this Don? Metal rock sliders? Metal rear bumper?
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Well, the steel frame to start with.
I already have the buildups around any plastic compartment door to protect against branches
I think I'll add something to the rear to cover the water tank area and maybe a nudge bar on the sides, don't know. I'm thinking of a roof rack thing that is really just steel bars to ward off branches.
Passively, I built all those angles into the front slope to lift and move branches, and recessed almost everything, or eoclosed them like with the taillights. Finally, I thought about some aluminum diamond plate for the front.
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And here's the start of the rear storage cabinet. I plan to finish it with the bondo and black laquer treatment with some interior lining. It's getting mocked up here
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While I was messing around back there, I wrapped some cables with the dave stuff
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Next I added this rear sloping shelf. I'm thinking things like shoes, cans, batteries, tackle box and the like. The slope should keep things where they belong.
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A couple shots of where it all is at the moment.
You will start to see insulation panels, some paneling and flooring in the not too distant future.
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I just did an inventory of everything, and I mean everything that I assembled into that camper, then added everything I have yet to construct
I used actual item weights or calculated weights that I found online, like the weight of steel rectangular tubing per foot, or the weight of EPDM per square foot.
Adding up everything in a very long spread sheet I calculate a dry weight of the thing, finished of 2438.5 lbs
Adding almost 550 lbs of water, food, clothing and things, I get a fully ladened mission weight of 2988 lbs.
Well under the 3500 I was estimating.
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Don are you not using plastic or metal electrical boxes around your 110v outlets?
Nope, sure aren't
Space is so limited, essentially the box the outlets mount in are the receptacle boxes. Another box would just be the department of redundancy department. It all fits nice and snugly
A metal “handy box” takes up almost no additional room and gives you protection against something accidentally hitting the backside of those plugs, shorting and starting a fire.
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I installed a 110VAC outlet in the pantry box for possible use outside...coffee maker?
What, no GFCI?
The next box turned out well. Kind of what I was just talking about, the box is the box...
The finishing technique I am using is to finish the object with body plastic, sanding to smooth. Then three coats of black epoxy. I follow that the next day with another coat of paint. I sand that when it's dry and spray with two coats of spar urethane.
That box looks molded vs built, nice!
Lower rub rails and good bumper would be great ideas. and you have the GVW to spare now.
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I kinda had some 1.5 tube rock sliders bars down the bottom side of this, similar to Shawn’s he put on a Jeep not to long ago, the ones he added to a square tube I think... You could use them in addition to the frame but as also a step spot to reach things on the roof when the roof is all the way up( I have no idea final height of this).
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Here they are,
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200216/d2125233a84e1d5d28faf59c59a49ca6.png)Not exactly the square portion but you could outline the lower portion of the trailer and even go up and around the wheel well.. in the end this is made of wood and glue,, a good wrap around a tree or a larger then Kens GF size rock. The slider bars would look good, add some structural rigidity and function well.
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Yea, I can see it
and I have plenty of reserve weight to play with
Now, not guaranteeing to have those on before its maiden voyage, if I get the chance to do that this year, but if the build continues to speed along, I may get the chance to weld those on.
I do have the 110VAC on a GFCI, 20 amp circuit.
After church, and before training I stopped in to Menards and picked up the flooring and some packs of cedar T&G for the walls. Getting to that point pdq
I'm staying with neutral purple and yellow colors with camouflage and neon green trim. Should look great!
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Those sliders are made from 2x3 3/16 wall tube (sound familiar?) and the round is 1 5/8” hr x 1/8”
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Those sliders are made from 2x3 3/16 wall tube (sound familiar?) and the round is 1 5/8” hr x 1/8”
I'm smilin'
I'd have to bend up some longins!
Komrade Kamper is what, 12 feetses long!
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But think of the structural strength, the badassery in looks to have a exo cage around the bottom.
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I agree with Dave, if it were mine and it's not. I would do more of an exo cage style around the bottom. Which then has me wondering what is the total overall width of this camper? 102"? If its less then I would do as we used to do when I was a kid on our wood hauling trailers we pulled behind the tractors. What we would do to save the tires is ramp it out to the side in front of and behind the wheel wells. This would allow us to push and pull it around tree through the woods and tires didn't get hung up on the trees. In this case you could make two bars for each side. One in front of the wheels and one aft then wrap it around front or back for 12-18" or so...….
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I agree with Dave, if it were mine and it's not. I would do more of an exo cage style around the bottom. Which then has me wondering what is the total overall width of this camper? 102"? If its less then I would do as we used to do when I was a kid on our wood hauling trailers we pulled behind the tractors. What we would do to save the tires is ramp it out to the side in front of and behind the wheel wells. This would allow us to push and pull it around tree through the woods and tires didn't get hung up on the trees. In this case you could make two bars for each side. One in front of the wheels and one aft then wrap it around front or back for 12-18" or so...….
I think you peeps have me swayed like the willow in the wind. I think you're right, an exo skirt with some extra stuff would add to Dave's BAery quotient and scare hippies off to the next parking space.
It's not that wide at all. Outside to outside minus the bumps is 73.5" with bumpery make it 75" total. I could easily accommodate an additional 4" per side to get me to 83" total width and give me something to accidentally rub against a prius or two. ;-)
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Shawn, sketch out that idea of yers and snap/post a pic of it. Crayon on a shop towel is gud enough quality, just want to grasp the konsept.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200218/8ba222fba043a868e915977e4399d50a.jpg)
Sorry, for the crappy sketch. Spent a whole three minutes on it. But if your 2x3 tube frame sits under the outer edge and then you outboard the tires a bit. I’d start by building the fenders and angle out to them in the front and the back. Then I’d add round tubing as a step / rub rail along the side. Probably don’t need it to wrap around front as it’s narrower already than the suburban. You may want to put a full tube along rear though and I’d bend them in at each end and weld right to the 2x3 frame underneath. Nothing mad maxish but light and highly functional
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Yep!
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200218/8ba222fba043a868e915977e4399d50a.jpg)
Sorry, for the crappy sketch. Spent a whole three minutes on it. But if your 2x3 tube frame sits under the outer edge and then you outboard the tires a bit. I’d start by building the fenders and angle out to them in the front and the back. Then I’d add round tubing as a step / rub rail along the side. Probably don’t need it to wrap around front as it’s narrower already than the suburban. You may want to put a full tube along rear though and I’d bend them in at each end and weld right to the 2x3 frame underneath. Nothing mad maxish but light and highly functional
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Yes, I can see doing that, and looking at it, not sure why I didn't plan for that all along??
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After removing the cabinet. I built it up then spread bondo all over the thing, then sanded it with #60 then #120
I was sure to inhale most of the dust to keep it from getting on the floor!
After cleaning the thing off, it got a coat of primer
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Followed by four coats of black epoxy, then two coats of gloss spar urethane
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Not sure if anyone here has ever seen these before, but they are real live evasion maps. One of these two is the very one I was issued during Desert Storm and carried in my helmet bag. Now the cool thing about these hybrid maps is that they are made of the same stuff tyvek house wrap is made from. They are waterproof, and can be used as a makeshift tent, water bag, rain jacket and have the maps of the region of Iraq I was flying in at that time. Along the margins are pictures of hazardous and edible plants and dangerous wildlife along with celestial navigation information and a ton of information. They have been sitting in my closet forever, so I decided to finally use them for something
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...as a closer wall paper
I started first in the food pantry
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And right after gluing the map down, I finished the table top/door with two more coats of spar urethane
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In preparation for the installation of the insulation sheeting, I cleaned and vacuumed the inside.
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Then laid down half of the floor with some 3/4" R 3.3 foam board
The foam board fills the space out to the face of the 3/4" stringers and reinforcements I have placed all over
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I selected a good grade of vinyl flooring "boards" that clock/snap together. Meant to be a floating floor, I nixed that and applied some glue here and there to keep things in their rightful place whilst bouncing across the america.
Both HD and SLOWES were out of the 3/4" panels so I had to stop right here when I ran out of foam board to lay flooring onto. But at least I almost have it done!
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Great idea with the map Don. I’d shoot some ultra clear urethane over it too.
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Great idea with the map Don. I’d shoot some ultra clear urethane over it too.
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Wilco!
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Great idea with the map Don. I’d shoot some ultra clear urethane over it too.
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Wilco!
Well, that didn't work very well...
I sprayed clear spar urethane over the map and it caused some of the adhesive to let go and some wrinkles to appear. So I rubbed over the just sprayed areas with some flannel and managed to save the "wall paper" from a complete demise!
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Back to the flooring. I scored some fomular 250 insulation board today and laid it down. I covered the remaining foam with flooring to finish that task
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I finished the tray/table (again) with two more coats of urethane, and that project is complete
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Next I covered the back wall with an evasion map of Haiti (Yup, was there too!) gluing it to everything so I'd never be able to find anything again!
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Then screwed the recently finished cabinet permanently in place. It is actually a stiffening member adding to the rigidity of the rear end. With 400 + pounds of water pushing on things, some added strength is welcomed.
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I had already started to cover some components with the "paneling" which is actually T&G cedar boards
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More of that cedar will be showing up as I can now begin to close things in
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As a continuing part of the decor theme, I am using rare wormy chestnut as a trim element. The electrical boxes are made of it with a black lacquered front. The pantry inset will get topped with the decorative wood as well. Here's the actual piece prior to milling:
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The maps are nice touch. I really like that!
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The maps are nice touch. I really like that!
Thank ya Jon!
That top plate trim board was not quite wide enough so I stretched it some
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The floor stayed in place while the glue did its expansion thing
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I carried the cedar strips all the way back through the storage closet thing
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Then I had to wrap the window and door openings with some 3/4" ply to give me something solid to screw into when I secure the trim
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Once the openings are trimmed out, I can proceed with patchwork-quilting the remaining voids with the foam board. This stuff is actually Formular 250 which has a R4.0 resistance rating
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I discovered this flake of paint that cracked and peeled up. I'm going to have to investigate that more closely before going ahead with the final urethane bed liner top coat
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Other than that, the thing is progressing, albeit slowly. The work is very meticulous at this point with so many unique parts needing to be measured cut, fitted, then the next and so forth. I had wanted to have this wall finished today, but it looks like tomorrow at the earliest
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More work on the paneling:
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And I got the left side wall finished before COB tonight
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The trim cap piece came out great. After cutting it to size, I ran it through the planner then sanded the edges.
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That is the same wormy chestnut I used for the other cabinet fixtures. It was harvested from the bottom of lake michigan where it sat for over 100 years.
After fitting it, It was removed and so far has four coats of spar urethane applied to it
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Poly for the paneling too or natural?
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Nice work, bet it smells really nice in there
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Really coming together nicely. Great work.
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Poly for the paneling too or natural?
Spar Urethane.
I test sprayed a section and it really popped. Later on when it is all in, I plan on a detailed cleaning, taping, sanding of most surfaces, then spray it all at one time to get some uniformity, then take whatever comes out. Gotta keep movin' that frame is calling to me...
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Nice work, bet it smells really nice in there
Speaking of scent. When I saw a piece of that chestnut, the smell that comes out of that is something you could bottle and sell to guys who have wood shops. Very earthy, not like walnut, not like Oak, unique. But the urethane seals all that pdq, but its good working it...Man just had a thought...What if it's hazardous! Yikes! I've been deep inhalin' that earthy smell for months...
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When ever I run a bunch of white oak it smells the shop with what I think smells just like pickles. Poplar smells like fresh brownies or the garbage can pending on a condition I can’t pinpoint.
Is your tongue And groove rough or paint ready smooth?
You could pre spray large amounts in full length sticks and then touch up as needed afterwords also
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When ever I run a bunch of white oak it smells the shop with what I think smells just like pickles. Poplar smells like fresh brownies or the garbage can pending on a condition I can’t pinpoint.
Is your tongue And groove rough or paint ready smooth?
You could pre spray large amounts in full length sticks and then touch up as needed afterwords also
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Its smooth enough to wipe down and spray. Yes, I could spray it then cut and install, but just choosing to do it this way, this time. I don't have the shop space to lay out a bunch of sticks and still have room to move and besides, I'm still creating dust which would settle in the wet stuff. Of course I could always spray them in the kitchen...I'm sure Kat would be OK with that..;-)
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I was just curious, installing all of kitchen crown in the homes. I have tried to weigh out the options of one finial coat on everything in place, doors, end panels and crown but I always come to the same conclusion, masking takes to much time, cure times are long for other trades, smell of lacquer is bothersome to others. But as you stated. Space is probably the limit.
What happened to you killing down a bunch of your own cedar from the farm? I imagine that would smell fantastic
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Looking over at the latest gun question post: what and where are you mounting your pistol grip12 in this camper? Hideaway box, very visible mount above the door with glowing tape around it?
Handgun under the night light?
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Looking over at the latest gun question post: what and where are you mounting your pistol grip12 in this camper? Hideaway box, very visible mount above the door with glowing tape around it?
Handgun under the night light?
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It will be in there...long gun and pistol
Locations already designed/built
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To make everything fit flat, I had to spend some good time (not so fun) scraping all the excess glue off
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Then repeated the same process. Glue in the nailer strips, the corner reinforcements, then cut a gig saw puzzle of foam board, glue that in place, then finally measure and cut the various lengths of cedar plank
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Just for reference so I have a record of which fuse is for what until I label the things.
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Meet the 6,000 btu catalytic heater. The proper size would have been a 5,000 or perhaps a bit smaller than that, but that assumes R5 or better walls. I'm guessing that with the fabric wrap providing less insulation, the next size up would be appropriate. Anyway this is a great unit that completely burns everything leaving nothing. I heard Jimmy Hoffa was laid out on one of these after he went missing...
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I decided it would be best to mount it solidly to some thick plywood, then attach that panel through all the layers into the solid plywood shell beneath
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I added more planking to the lower part of the wall prior to mounting the heater
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This thing is designed to mount directly to a wall surface, but just in case, I did apply a layer of heat barrier to the mount, then secured it to the wall. The heater works by radiating the heat. It does not directly heat the air, but heats the surfaces, which in turn heat the air. Its nice to sit in front of, if you have ever experienced radiant heat
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At this point I deemed the chestnut trim board to be dry enough after getting three more light coats of spar urethane, so I mounted it. All I have left to do is some trim pieces to bring it all together
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And I almost had enough cedar remaining to finish the front wall. I only lack a single 18" piece and a horizontal trim piece to close that wall off
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Next up will be the creation of a cabinet thing to encase the AC unit. I plan to use the same Chestnut I have been employing so far.
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Have you ever seen how the semi trucks heat the cabs?
Happybuy 3KW Diesel Parking Heater 12V Diesel Air Heater 3000W Diesel Heater Double Mufflers with LCD Thermostat for RV Boats Car Bus Caravan Motorhome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L88ZJMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nLkuEbWQBA72S
I know the thought is a little late but with blown air being dry with no CO2. The propane unit will cause moisture
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Heck, just run the water heater!!
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I think the weight of this thing just doubled with all the finish trim.
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I think the weight of this thing just doubled with all the finish trim.
You mean with the flooring. Each packet weighed 23 lbs, and I used 2 boxes + 2 pieces from a third. The cedar packs of 7, 4" boards weighs around 4 pounds. I have 4 packs installed at the moment, so an additional 16 lbs for the wall covering.
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Heck, just run the water heater!!
That thing is about to get an exhaust/vent duct.
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Started on the cabinet to cover the AC unit with some more chestnut
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After planing and fitting the main parts I clamped them up and let them set for 6-7 hours
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Then I switched the corner clamps to the back side and finished installing the balance of the pieces
I wasn't fooling around with this thing. I clamped it every way and every where I could think of
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Repeating the same laborious process on the right wall I got some of it done
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I wanted to get the planks past the electrical box before moving back to the cabinet. I wanted to finish assembling that so that I can sand it and spray with urethane tomorrow
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i am creating a storage bin/shelf unit for the dead space in front of the door and beside the AC. I'll need a place to store a broom and some other things, and these pieces which were cut and glued will be further cut and shaped to make that happen
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And, finally, I furred out the corner cabinet to get it ready for its trip panel.
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Noticed the lED lights in your last photo, been reading reviews on the amazon and honestly kind of scary with photos of burnt circuit cards and smoked wires.
Little bit nervous to pull the trigger on the purchase and thinking I’ll spend a little bit more for no fire insurance in my trailer
What did you find?
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Noticed the lED lights in your last photo, been reading reviews on the amazon and honestly kind of scary with photos of burnt circuit cards and smoked wires.
Little bit nervous to pull the trigger on the purchase and thinking I’ll spend a little bit more for no fire insurance in my trailer
What did you find?
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First I heard about it
I do know that just about everyone has pulled the incandescent bulbs out of their RV and replaced with LED bulbs, but that is different than installing a totally LED unit. So I just don't know.
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Out of the clamping maze, the thing dried square and fit just about perfectly. This is a trial fitting, fresh out of the clamps with no sanding or prep.
Following the fit check I sanded it with #80 then #120, and then applied eight coats of the glossy spar urethane. I'll steel woll it tomorrow, then shoot it with two more coats, allow to dry, then install the thing
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Installed more cedar panels and insulation
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Finally finishing that wall around 1930
I ordered a ten foot by eight foot awning and some HD cam style clamps to secure the roof section to the main body when travelling. I also ordered a folding 4" memory foam mattress that quickly folds up ont of the way or into a makeshift couch. It will be perfect for what I need for a dual purpose bed. The bed frame construction is coming right up.
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Which awning did you choose? Matching to the burb?
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Which awning did you choose? Matching to the burb?
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Yes, matching but not a 270 like the burb. Samer manufacturer so poles I have in burb storage could replace broken poles from camper if necessary.
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What holds the pop up frame parts that I see in the pics as you wonder threw mulch beds?
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What holds the pop up frame parts that I see in the pics as you wonder threw mulch beds?
Funny you should ask
I was just sorting that out today.
I have never settled on how I was going to lift and stabilize the roof, but I designed up something today that will use electric actuators and a linkage arrangement to both lift and to stabilize the roof in the longitudinal axis. The hinges already stabilize the roof in the lateral axis, so this should finish it. About to order the parts, but before I do that, I want to mock it up with wood parts to see it in action, then substitute in the aluminum mechanism.
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The AC trim surround is now installed. I'm pleased with how that turned out
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This is the corner shelf unit that will use the dead space beside the door
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And this is the trim for the corner box that will allow me to use that spot for storage
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Starting the trim work today, first I covered that pine stiffener that reinforces the flat and angle sections mating surface
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And this is as far aft as I plan to run the cedar planking. The area below the angle cabinet will be covered by a curtain.
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And now I am trimming out the corners with 1.25" sections of the same cedar
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And I cut the flooring into 2" strips which I am using as moulding to finish out the flooring. I discovered that the dicor I used on the roof is one excellent glue to hold these strips of vinyl in place
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Good thing its a pop up, nowhere else to sleep!
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Hopefully a fire retardant curtain
Looks good Don
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The convertible mattress showed up
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That corner storage thing got a couple more pieces and a couple of holes drilled into it. I decided it was going to be a broom or vacuum holder along with cleaning stuff. It has already been sanded and given many coats of the spar urethane.
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And this facia trim piece came out of the clamp up jig to be fitted, sanded and sprayed as well
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The water filter storage tube was sanded in and the cap given a lanyard to complete that modification
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The goal for today was to get the trim finished, and with the exception of not installing some pieces which were not completely dry, I met that mark
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The heater is really just hanging on the four screw heads, so I gave it some trim on the side and an overlapping cap to keep everything where it should be.
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In preparation to fit the sliding bed frame, I covered the wheel wells with some vinyl flooring since under certain conditions, that area will be visible
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Then I created a bulkhead to close off the area beneath the bed and create another storage area.
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Then that piece was covered with the cedar plank and installed. It will also make the floor structure much more rigid as it ties both wheel wells across the floor with a vertical structure.
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The bed frame will be an extending affair that can also collapse to free up more floor space when the occasion calls for it. I had to cut a bunch of 2.5" wide styles which will be fitted with perhaps 1/8" side to side clearance.
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The styles were cut from 3/4" fir, whereas the end pieces which will keep everything from flexing too much were made from a 2 X 12 SYP which I planned down to 1" thick
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I cut that down into the four pieces to be used as the end of the sliding "fingers."
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So while I was doing all that, one of the pre-rangers came down wanting to help. So I gave him the task of cutting insulation for the roof panels. He did a pretty good job!
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^^^ Yesterday he was my favorite. The day before he was not!
The broom rack is installed
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And the trim piece covering the front of the corner storage bin
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Then we teamed up and went to work on the bed. It was a cool father and son time and we got into a deep biblical discussion about God and all his majesty. So good to talk to them when they are open and approachable. Our job as fathers is to sow the word into the lives of our children, then watch it grow from our heavenly homes.
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Just hoping it will be strong enough, the interlacing fingers allow it to extend to accept the full 78" of queen size mattress or to collapse into a space saving sofa base size
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It interlocks but is fairly free to pivot and extend/retract
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I relooked at the location of the bulkhead and decided on a better approach which was to relocate it aft to allow for more floor space so we can practice dance moves in there when not sleepin'
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Ranger in there gives a better idea of the size. It always looks "small" in the pics, what are the dimensions?
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Ranger in there gives a better idea of the size. It always looks "small" in the pics, what are the dimensions?
It is 6 feet wide, 10 feet long on the inside with another two foot extension to the front and the roof raises to have full standing height + some inches.
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Here is the bed going in through the opening between the top and the body
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And here it is attached to the water tank top with a full length piano hinge
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And tilted to a 45 to show access beneath:
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And extended far enough to handle a 78" mattress
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I added three hollow feet to add stability and strength to the open end
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I cut down a pine project panel to 21" X 26" to use as a folding table top
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Then fastened it to the right wall. A support fastens to the front wall and allows the table to fold upward and lock into place and become strong and rigid
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Then I brushed on the first coat of spar urethane over the entire interior except for those things which were already complete
That clear urethane really made the grain of that cedar pop!
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If you've ever seen a vintage Alaskan pop up slide in, I think I have captured that classic look pretty effectively.
Looking in from the right window to give an idea of the expansive room in there for a (sort of) teardrop
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So, things are moving right along. The awning will be arrive in a day or two.
I am putting my order together for the steel and aluminum, but now breaking that down into two orders. All the small stuff in one order, then the frame pieces in another.
The electric linear actuators are inbound with a tracking number, two 36" travel with a 225 lb capacity each. I will pick up the square tubing which will be used to construct a compound semi-scissors linkage that will finish off the top construction. Well, after I secure the EPDM with some 1" aluminum angle, that is...
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That’s a whole lot of brushing Don. Looks good!!
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Thanks
Priority is to the big stuff now that almost all of the interior and little stuff is completed.
Get the rubber on the top pinned down
Get the lift mechanism built
Get the underside coated
Get the frame built
Get the two parts married up
Make the fabric part to connect the top and body
Go drive many. many miles ;-)))
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Looking real good chief.
That cedar sure popped with the finish!
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Looking real good chief.
That cedar sure popped with the finish!
Sure did!
I was waiting on doing the roof until I decided on what material to use. My son helped me, saying he thought it would look good with the same cedar, so I have several packs of the stuff here already waiting to go in.
Things are starting to consolidate. The aluminum and steel for the top and lifting mechanism is all in, the awning arrives tomorrow or the next day, and I am about to order the steel for the frame. I didn't want it to be sitting around very long so I have held off.
Today I got the bottom mostly coated with two coats of that harbor freight bedliner, which, is actually the best of that type of product I can find. I used about a half dozen of the air activated epoxy bed liner products and this stuff from HF is a standout. My bumpers that I sprayed last summer still look great, black and shiny and not falling apart.
Now that big assembly bench is under the camper and covering a big spot that will have to be coated. The plan is to move that tomorrow and get the primer, then the paint on. Hopefully with that working out, the rest of the belly will be coated and ready for a frame by weeks end.
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Couldn’t you have just done the bottom when you put it on it’s side to get it out the door? That is still the plan right?
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Couldn’t you have just done the bottom when you put it on it’s side to get it out the door? That is still the plan right?
Ryan, I could have done that. but I chose to do it this way.
Another factor is, I have to remove a steel post supporting an I-beam which supports the main floor. I figure I can pop in a temporary couple of posts to support the beam while I do the move, which I plan to only take a few hours. I would not be comfortable watching my house settle into the basement. And that darned post narrows things up just enough to prevent an aerial rotation with it being there.
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Don, when you get ready to migrate the camper to the outside, let me know if you need a hand. I’m about ready for a foray outside the house and I think my wife is about ready for me to get out for a bit too.
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10-4 chief. I vaguely recall mention of the steel post once before.
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Don, when you get ready to migrate the camper to the outside, let me know if you need a hand. I’m about ready for a foray outside the house and I think my wife is about ready for me to get out for a bit too.
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Dave,
I was thinking just today that we need to go get a cup of joe together
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I am just liking this stuff. Chinaman super muck numba 21. Or Harbor Freight bed liner for the record. It is the consistency of warm tar and dries on the super quick. I mean by the time you finish rolling the first coat, just go right ahead with the second.
Bring plenty of rollers though. Because it cures so quickly, it forms pills on the end of the roller which is rubbed off onto your otherwise smooth surface where it forms spongy balls. I was able to wipe them off fairly easily so no big deal really
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30 min of layin' on your back and undergoing an ethnicity change from white to black and I was done. Later I moved the supports and started the process all over
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I got the unfinished sections all the way through the second coat of epoxy, so tomorrow I get to expose everyone to hazardous fumes yet again.
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And, Dave, I found some space to coat the cedar boards before cutting and installing!
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Fixed the area of peeling and got a couple coats around the filter storage opening
I figured out why that paint lifted below the kitchenette. I had some red grease from the old hinge unit that was probably smeared around by a sander disc, compromising the paints ability to adhere
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Here is the folding shower mount loosely installed as a test fit
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Then I pulled the wire for the overhead LED interior lights. Now I'm ready to finish insulating and install the roof cedar panels
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Then I finished wiring the last of the lights, the electrical compartment lamp
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I applied a coat of bed liner on top of the triple thick spare tire mount. The black area gets a sheet of steel with the actual tire wheel mount welded to it. THis surface will never see the light of day
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When insulating the roof area, I seen the insulation doesn’t come flush with the studs. Air gap or going to fill it up more?
I have been wondering which direction would the air gap best be served? Inside the trailer or outside? Before rotomold coolers there was simply a air gap and plastic. The super eco homes will build up air gaps between the siding and the outside sheeting.
Just curious on others and your thoughts.
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When insulating the roof area, I seen the insulation doesn’t come flush with the studs. Air gap or going to fill it up more?
I have been wondering which direction would the air gap best be served? Inside the trailer or outside? Before rotomold coolers there was simply a air gap and plastic. The super eco homes will build up air gaps between the siding and the outside sheeting.
Just curious on others and your thoughts.
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I'm not putting that much thought into it. My plan was to shove the extruded insulating panel in there, then cover with the cedar, then fill the cavity with foam insulation to get the R-value up and the noise level down
You may see that happen this very day.
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Here's the almost flush mount LED interior lights I chose. These burn at a cooler temp producing a softer yellowish light. They fit nicely in a 2.25" hole
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The first two installed in the aft overhead structure
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This is making things go much quicker. It's running the 18 gage brads
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More of the overhead insulation stuffed in all the vacant rectangles
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And, a bit of a screw-up here. I ran the second piece of plank without cutting in for the connecting cable. I'll get to redo that as a consequence!
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I'm liking how this looks inside. Makes me want to go for a pine box casket some day...
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Like those lights, amazon?
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Like those lights, amazon?
Yes/Yes
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Let’s turn off The shop lights and leave on those pod lights.
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After cutting a slot to move the cable outboard, here is the fix to the added surgery
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Let’s turn off The shop lights and leave on those pod lights.
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OK, good idea...hadn't thought of that. I'll get a shot tomorrow
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The panelling is somewhat slow due to the many steps. Once a "Block" is covered up, I have to go back and fill the cavity up with the expanding foam.
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Two more lights installed overhead of the door. The small round one switches on with three other ones positioned at the four corners
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six long boards from finishing the main stretch of the roof assembly
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Way back when I was assembling the roof structure, I had to figure in the clearance for the roof panel to the lifting/support hinge. Look how close that came out:
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I have the roof tilted at the moment. I've not seen the odd resulting angle
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Still waiting to see how you vent that water heater?
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Still waiting to see how you vent that water heater?
I always put things off that I don't want to do!
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Dave asked for pics of the lights, so I turned off the shop lights, and it has no windows so I got to real dark, real quick
The shots show various configurations of interior lights on and off
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And the exterior lights that will illuminate beneath the awning
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Here's the electrical compartment
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The fold down kitchenette
And the pantry. I couldn't open the door after repositioning the thing for the belly painting
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I had a bit of expanding foam find a pathway to freedom!
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I finished the paneling of the main part of the roof. I will still need to tuck some in the rear and the extreme front
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Next I glued the EPDM rubber to the underside of the roof, the secured the underside with some 1" X .125 aluminum angle
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That really cleaned things up!
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The front piece finished that chore and sets me up to start fabbing the lift mechanism
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The 900 mm (36" stroke) linear actuators showed up finally. They will lift 225 lbs ea. So with 450 lbs total lift they should lift the roof, but I am thinking I need to incorporate a couple of gas lift cylinders to allow the actuators to run at optimum speed
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I ducked back inside to cut out around the roof fan and and install the trim piece, finishing that project
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I want to laminate the underside of this plywood, but I don't want to spend any time on the "fluff" stuff. I know that time is limited and the frame is not yet built, nor is the fabric top to body piece even planned...
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So this is where I left it enroute to munching some tacos with the grand kids
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The 900 mm (36" stroke) linear actuators showed up finally. They will lift 225 lbs ea. So with 450 lbs total lift they should lift the roof, but I am thinking I need to incorporate a couple of gas lift cylinders to allow the actuators to run at optimum speed
Hopefully they won't bend the undersized frame you are putting under it. :laugh: :cheesy: :beercheers:
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Lights looks really good, great output
You said there is a part you want to laminate? What is that part. I can’t tell from the photo. Your interior looks great
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Dave asked for pics of the lights, so I turned off the shop lights, and it has no windows so I got to real dark, real quick
The shots show various configurations of interior lights on and off
Looks Purdy!!
Notice the Capital P.
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Did you ever get your cooler you ordered?
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Lights looks really good, great output
You said there is a part you want to laminate? What is that part. I can’t tell from the photo. Your interior looks great
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That piece of ply is the aft "bunk" and the underside which you will see is still just the ply. Was thinking of going over it with some cedar. I think I'll put a piece of shag tiger stripe carpet in blue on the top side.
^^^Some of what I said is not true...;-)
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Did you ever get your cooler you ordered?
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No, but I didn't order it
I am working around a budget, so I was waiting on purchasing that until later provided I didn't have any major cost overruns. So far/so good. If I couldn't purchase one, then a cooler could get the maiden voyage done...
Getting after that lifting linkage today...Hope that thing works
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So this completes this phase of the belly water proofing. Two more coats of the bed liner stuff and four coats in the wheel wells. The wheel wells will get a further top coat of a rubberized undercoating to give the rocks something to hit and bounce off of. At this point the thing is going to be coming down to the floor and the top is going to be going up
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And look who showed up again!
The grease that I remember being on the plywood is causing me some issues. So my next step now is to take the area back down to wood, then spray it off with brake cleaner, then repeat the process as many times as necessary until I achieve a solid base to apply the two stage urethane bed liner top coat
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Found this in the garage...Not sure what it is, but I think I'll use it for a place to set my coffee while I weld over on the work bench...
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OK, on to the lifting mechanism. It starts, of course with the linear actuators which will be connected to a linkage assembly. First part of that assembly are the four linkage arms. I wanted some adjustability in the thing, so I cut down some 7/16 all thread into 8" lengths
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I welded a tightly clamped stack of 1/2" washers to one end to make a rudimentary rod end.
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I selected 3/4" square tubing with a .125 wall thickness. To create a non adjustable pivoting end I cut down some 1" X 5/16, notched the tube end, then welded the parts together.
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I welded a 7/16 X 14 nut to the other end, the ground the ends to the desired shape. The first bits screwed into the threaded ends, completing the adjustable arm assembly
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Next a short piece of rectangle tubing was notched and drilled, and the two arms fitted into holes in either end
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The "rod" ends will be attached to the top and the body respectively, and the linear actuators will push in the manner depicted.
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One side is complete, the other side to come tomorrow
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And look who showed up again!
The grease that I remember being on the plywood is causing me some issues. So my next step now is to take the area back down to wood, then spray it off with brake cleaner, then repeat the process as many times as necessary until I achieve a solid base to apply the two stage urethane bed liner top coat
In past instances with fighting a grease or oil I found the sandpaper was still spreading the grease and most affective was to sand back to wood and prime with Kills spray can primer. It’s mean stuff and might be the answer
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Will the actuator be on the inside of the V or the outside/pointed side?
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Will the actuator be on the inside of the V or the outside/pointed side?
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On the inside, way up high. It's all very compact at this point (Hope to keep it that way!)
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Getting closer,,,,,,,
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Yes I am!
Finished the second set of lift mechanism linkage
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Next job was to fit the base mount to the acuatorer
Starting with a small hole, I made a bigger hole of .75".
Then I drilled an oversized hole through the sides that the 1/4" clevis pin could capture the shaft inside
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The extra cleanance was tightened back up by welding two blocks on the outsides with the proper .250" hole
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Welded, cleaned and mounted
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With the linkage arms attached
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The whole thing will take up a space 78" long by perhaps 3.5"-4" tall
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And then I realized I had a problem in the design
I wanted to fit the things on the long axis on top of each wall
But
If I do that, there will be no where to gather the fabric to the inside!
Crap!
So I think I may need to mount the things on the outside
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At this point, I walked away from it.
Once I start drilling holes it is going to start to be too late pretty quick, so I have to really think about this
My first check of the acuatorer was good. They meet the IP65 standard which essentially means they are dustproof for solids, and can withstand a .25" stream of water running over them from above and be unaffected.
That all sounds good, but what about when you start mixing the water and the dust...Isn't that, MUD?
And mud has its own effect that tends to transcend the destructiveness of either of its component parts.
So, the warrant officer sits and ponders
But the smell of spaghetti ah cookin' in the kitch is causing this issue to fade into the background
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Would you be able to mount them to your existing hinges in the trailer? Make them just a clerks pin connection. Hook them up to lower and raise, once up, disconnect and stow. When you are ready to break camp, you can hook them back up and lower the lid. They’d be out of the way when on site but functional when needed. Might not be high speed, but they would be out of the weather and muck, would still work and you could properly stow your canvas sides.
Works in my head at least. I see the top going up and down. :)
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Would you be able to mount them to your existing hinges in the trailer? Make them just a clerks pin connection. Hook them up to lower and raise, once up, disconnect and stow. When you are ready to break camp, you can hook them back up and lower the lid. They’d be out of the way when on site but functional when needed. Might not be high speed, but they would be out of the weather and muck, would still work and you could properly stow your canvas sides.
Works in my head at least. I see the top going up and down. :)
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I wouldn't want to do that, but the mechanism is sized to fit along a longitudinal axis.
I am not thinking about it at the moment, but almost for sure I am having to mount the insect looking thing on the outside.
I never promised pretty!
Wife is leaving for a few daze, so time to spray the body. I just picked up the urethane paint.
Now that is a horse of a different color too. Turns out most paint is a bit of tint and a lot of filler and binder. If you remove the fluff you get berry, berry little paint. To get the three ounces per bottle X 6 I would have had to purchase almost one gallon of product and leave the store with like 20 ounces of the pigment. At the cost of a metallic Urethane, the cost would have eclipsed $200
So we picked an industrial non metallic color which matches and I got away with a quart for $25!!!!
It's here now, and she is about not to be so the lines are intersecting and BOD (Big ole Don) is about to spray bedliner all over his hand and power tools and likely get some on the camper too!
Let the games begin!
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Oh and I have a plan to blend the praying mantis into the side scheme
I found some gray 1.25" heat shrink tubing, so the plan is to paint the parts black, then heat shrink wrap them in the dark gray to blend in with the coming concrete siding
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Can you build a little tent room of plastic and add a box fan to vent your shop?
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Can you build a little tent room of plastic and add a box fan to vent your shop?
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I could, but I just use fans to push household air into the room, then open a door to the outside. I turn off the HVAC, then open doors/windows upstairs. The wood shop is in the basement.
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Don on the mud issue. Do you plan on pulling upside down? All the mech are up top protected right? Or put on little booty's for travlin,,,,,,,,,,,
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Don on the mud issue. Do you plan on pulling upside down? All the mech are up top protected right? Or put on little booty's for travlin,,,,,,,,,,,
I'm gonna try my very best not to be upside down at any point during my travels.
A lot of mud gets tossed by mud tires. The good thing is it will all be collected by my camper and shouldn't mess up any trails any worse than they are ;-)
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We got the thing on the floor today. Well actually onto four furniture dollies. The shop was cleaned which took hours and I managed to get the whole body sanded. This will be the last time. If it all goes OK, tomorrow it gets sprayed with the tintable rhino-liner.
It is also sitting at a perfect height to install the praying mantis lifting device and finish the interior fit out.
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You have a link for the outside lights? Been looking for something similar but only finding the little ones.
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You have a link for the outside lights? Been looking for something similar but only finding the little ones.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H362F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Nice but $20 smacker each, wow.
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Nice but $20 smacker each, wow.
Concur, a bit spendy, but they seem to be a quality item and work well...so far...
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So today was paint day.
As it turns out there will be another paint day to accompany this one it would seem
But for now, lets get into this
The boys and I worked the thing down onto some furniture dollies on the floor
And then I started sanding it so the urethane bed liner would stick
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And I sanded
And I sanded
And, still, I sanded some more...
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Then all the things which could be unscrewed were removed, then the holes filled up with tape and paper
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Here are the materials that I will be using
Custom tintable three part urethane the new shutz gun, and sundry items
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I opened the can of tint color and thought to myself, "self, that doesn't look like enough color to provide three ounces to all eight canes of urethane."
And
I was right
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You must add 3 oz of tint base color to the can of urethane, then another seven ounces of hardener, and that gives you the proper mixture to spray.
Well I did that to the first three cans and it seemed I was running sort of low.
After wiping the whole thing down with solvent, I started spraying the right side which is perhaps the largest expanse. I was a bit unsettled when the first bottle was consumed and I hadn't gotten very far out of the starting gate. Two more bottles and that side was complete.
But the math was not working out for the kid in the Army shirt and breathing mask.
I mixed but two more bottles up when I exhausted the tint.
Needless to say I did not get the whole thing sprayed, and all of that put me in a bit of a conundrum. I may not have enough material to even give the camper a first coat. And silly me, I was wanting to spray over a second lighter coat for texturing and coverage of the inevitable light spots.
I got this far:
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The freelance stuff ahead of the main body of spraying was just running the remainder of light spray out of the gun and getting it to stick to something.
So now I have to rethink all of this.
Here's what I'm going to do:
First thing monday I will dity-mau over to the pante stor and get them to mix me up a bit more of the color. But this time I am going to also pick up a gallon of single stage urethane paint in the matching color of the Suburban, metallic and all.
I'll run the bed liner product out and if necessary, finish with some raptor black I have, then shoot two top coats of urethane paint. Not an optimum solution, but these are desperate times.
So onward and upward!
Edit: I just found another gallon of the stuff, so I should be good to fire it up with the pigment and finish the job on Monday
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Vinyl fabric ordered. I purchased the same olive drab stuff that Army "temper-tents" are made of. That stuff worked in monsoons, it should work here!
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Ready to paint this thing? Well I was! It got sprayed yesterday and had dried by hard this morning.
I took some time and sanded the whole thing off again just incase, and because the urethane had hardened beyond what I thought would be safe to just spray over with paint
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This time I showed up with two quarts of urethane paint, and this time in the color of the Suburban, metallic and all
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The paint looks darker than the burb, but who knows, the basement lighting vs natural sunlight. I splashed some on the gray I had used to showcase how much darker I was going
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And then I began spraying and mixing and shaking and spraying and mixing and shaking like forever until I had exhausted all my urethane.
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I had enough to finish coating the rest of the camper with a pretty thick coat, then I just dusted the rest of the exterior with the remaining can.
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The urethane was a 4:1:1 mix
I sprayed it out of a new HF 20 oz HVLP gun that I picked up for $20!
And it sprayed just fine
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I laid down two coats of urethane paint with hardener over top of the existing bed liner material
It came out OK, but not perfect. Because of the metallic, I picked up some shading and a little streaking
and
Know what?
I don't care...the flippin thing is done!
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Some closeups. It's serviceable and with trail dust/dirt/mud will never be noticed
and
it will never be leaking through the wood either. That termite food is sealed for good!
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I had time to paint the lifting mechanism parts too.
After reassembly of all the stuff I took off, that project is the next rung in the ladder to climb
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I like that color.
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Untapped and going back together
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Coated hardware with epoxy paint instead of the powder coat it came with
And everything is fitting together just fine
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Tail Lights wired in for the final time
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Then I knocked out a simple template for the base of the spare tire mount
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Assembled!
This is where I went into the mounting of the lifting mechanism.
I mounted it, and after watching it "work" I decided to can that whole idea. It would bind and push outward, attempting to bend the linkage and a blind man could see that it would eventually fail.
So with time running short, I moved on to a 4-post lifting system which will use four of these actuators, one at each corner.
Yea, I know Dave suggested that about a hundred pages ago, but if I am to get this to work in time for a vacation, the four motors possibly assisted by some gas struts is the best course of action.
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That color looks great!
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That color looks great!
Thanks Ken
A bit streaky, but at this point, I am pressing on. Once it gets trail dust on it you won't notice anything
So the lifting mechanism I had built that bolted to the exterior was scrapped, but here is what it looked like installed. It has hence forth been removed
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I had covered the linear actuators with that abrasion resistant wiring wrap to make all that kinder to the roof rubber, but as it stands I am keeping that feature
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Then the roof hold down latches were installed, one at each corner
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And now getting tired of messing with the lift mechanism, I have decided to just add four actuators, one at each corner to directly push up and lift the roof. I ordered a duplicate set of the ones I already have. The ones I have tucked in pretty well. I hardly notice them being in there.
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Here's some fun stuff. Picked up an extending/folding broom and a paper roll dispenser and mounted the latter above the folding table
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And installed some pantry organization trays and holders in the pantry area
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And finally cut out the sink slide-out to fit that piece
I have been using a technique of using a torch to melt candle wax onto a surface, then rubbing it into the wood grain in this case. The wax both lubricates and waterproofs the part.
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Getting busy on installing the windows, first I cut spacers and glued them into place around the perimeter of the opening
A quick check fit showed things were spaced perfectly
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With tape holding the window in place, I backfilled the space and cavity with black silicone. The caulk will be the sole mechanical means of holding the window in place much the same as the double sinks I have in the kitchen
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I applied a generous bead of the smelly stuff to the door flange, then screwed that into place
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Then the drip rail was screwed into place thus completing the exterior installation of this cool door
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And it works as advertised
I slid the window down to expose the screen and air out the interior
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Looking more and more like a camper!
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The other window is setting up as well
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I have a metal interior trim piece, but I swear that I cannot figure out how it attaches to the window. It almost looks like it would screw into something around the perimeter of the window frame, but screw it. That window will never come out with that silicone holding it in, and I think I want to create some cool inside wooden window trim piece...I'll think about it
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There is a small channel on the inside. Some self rapper screws should do the trick to go through the Predrilled holes on your window trim on the inside.
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There is a small channel on the inside. Some self rapper screws should do the trick to go through the Predrilled holes on your window trim on the inside.
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Must have missed them, I didn't see any, but I'm on it
Those things are in there so well, they feel like they grew as a part of the panel
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Door trim is in
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And both windows as well
There is some detail work remaining, but at this point they work and are serviceable, so I'm moving onto other work. I may not get everything done before I pull up stakes here, but if it sleeps us, keeps us dry or warm or cool and doesn't fall apart, then it served its purpose
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Punched out all the rubber holes to uncover the threaded inserts which the awning will bolt to. I'll cover the ones up I do not use with that rubber tape stuff. It closes off and seals up things pretty well...hmmm, I wonder if it would work on a person's yap?
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And I mounted the I=Pad holdin' device. And yes, it clears the bed when i raise it
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The frame plan was completed this evening and I'll be ordering the steel tomorrow.
Have to get ahead of the business closings. Governor Beshear just ordered the mandatory closing of all non-essential retail stores. Hardware stores along with grocery, pharmacy, auto parts and repair, and services remain open. I am hoping to get the steel while its a gray area.
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Got the lift actuators wired in today. This simple module powers the top up or down by pressing the corresponding button
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The wiring ran all over the place. The heavy wire supplies power to the switch panel, while the speaker wire (Yes, speaker wire) carries power to three of the four actuators.
Because of the way I set it all up, I can easily bring a wire in behind the secondary fuse panel to get power
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The wiring spaghetti cleaned up nicely
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Same with the other side. Wires are run, now just waiting for the second set of actuators to arrive
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Those wires will be covered with a trim piece in due time.
With the simple touch of a button either on the switch panel or via a key fob remote, up goes the top!
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What is the total time for full extension?
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Guess they have no issue lifting/raising the heft. Probably smooth too.
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What is the total time for full extension?
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Dunno, only raised it a foot or so. The top of the things are not bolted to the roof yet. They are pretty slow, and rated at 225 lbs lift ea, they do slow down and grunt. I'd estimate that roof to be north of 150 but less than 175
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Wonder also how much juice from the batteries they four will take, how many ups n downs till dead battery
Do you have a way to still lift the roof if need be with out power?
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You can get a cheap wattmeter that will show the load and draw for testing.
https://smile.amazon.com/Analyzer-Precision-Digital-voltage-Measurement/dp/B07PF67T3P/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=wattmeter&qid=1585035258&sr=8-1
For no electric use, just get the rangers and quick releases on one end of the struts.
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Where did you source the lifting mechanism? The boss man has an old pop up with springs. He is looking to retrofit with an electric jack of some sort.
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Wonder also how much juice from the batteries they four will take, how many ups n downs till dead battery
Do you have a way to still lift the roof if need be with out power?
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I am not done with the roof lift design
I intend to add two or four gas struts to do the heavy lifting
The electric lifts are attached via simple tractor type clip/pins. Just yank em and the roof is free lancing!
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Where did you source the lifting mechanism? The boss man has an old pop up with springs. He is looking to retrofit with an electric jack of some sort.
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Ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Linear-Actuator-12V-24V-DC-Motor-6-40-Stroke-Auto-Marine-Robotics/273853377264?var=573631899671
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Thanks!
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You're welcome!
So the steel should be ready for pickup tomorrow or the following morning
And the frame came out to four, twenty four foot sections of 2" X 4", 11 gage weighing 450 pounds give or take
And there's more!
The second set of actuators came in today!
Yippee
And I cut the grass for the first time this decade!
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Can’t wait to seee these work, so nice to see my ideas play out lol
Looking more forward to seeing this thing behind that monster burb
Stuck in a mulch bed to keep Shawn happy
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Can’t wait to seee these work, so nice to see my ideas play out lol
Looking more forward to seeing this thing behind that monster burb
Stuck in a mulch bed to keep Shawn happy
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Well, it was your idea, so you can claim the credit
I think it will work well, but I still want to put some gas struts in there to help, and then chase that with some sturdy brace somewhere to steady that big sail when I hoist it. I recall seeing 70 mph gusts in the california desert when I'd go Armee kampin' there at various "recreation" spots.
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After pulling out the folding table top, I added this spacer which allows for a wall side mount of that front lift motor
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I reinforced the roof where each actuator pushed against with a minimum of a single plate of 3/4" ply with Cedar glued to the showing side
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While I had the table top out, I sanded it and gave it three more coats of spar urethane
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The final lift motor was the one beside the door. It went in easy as apple pie!
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^^^ I can't get that pic to stand up straight and I'm tired of trying to fix it, so just turn your head sideways!
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So I pressed the up button and darned if the top didn't start to uniformly rise!
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And then straight up until the aft motors topped out.
The front needs adjustment which it will get starting tomorrow
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Holly smokes that gets really tall!!
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Success!
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Wow. Nice.
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Still needs to be sorted...But onto the necessary modifications/adjustments
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You said you have a canvas for the sides when expanded?
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Waaaay too late now but I was just reminded of an 18 wheeler RV that used to be owned by Will Smith. It was two story. The top story actuated up but the sides were hard so it was like a box top lifting up
Would have been neat to see if that concept could have worked on this rig. Top half of the box overlapping the bottom and then actuated up. Could have had hard sides and windows
I know. I’m fired.
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I think I have seen that, some discovery channel show or something
Really neat design when you can drop it down to normal height for travel, I imagine road nose cut in half. I think the top section was actually two sections so the lower level didn’t have windows blocked while in travel position
Link
https://www.businessinsider.com/inside-will-smiths-25-million-2-story-movie-trailer-2013-10
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That’s the second one. The first one didn’t that many have slides on the bottom. It was bought by steve Elkington. I had dinner with him and a few other people in this one a few years ago.
Craig the driver is a cool dude. He’s a coffee officianado and I have a t shirt and coffee mug with the Big Show on it somewhere.
https://www.secretgolf.com/videos/rural-golfer/season-1/episodes/episode-20--big-show
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You said you have a canvas for the sides when expanded?
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Yes. Its the same material that is used in US Army Temper tents and for the flexible sides of Semi truck trailers with the fabric sides
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A good piece of cedar to hold things in place while I fit things and make them work together
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The front hinge mechanism is too large, both too wide and stands the roof up taller than the actuators want to extend. The rear fit is pretty good and the over centering feature of that hinge is working and holds the weight of the roof
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So I yanked out the front hinge and went to work on it
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While that thing was removed, I centered everything (I think) then screwed in some conduit clamps over the actuators
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I have decided to install a second strut controller so that if I so choose, I can raise the front only, say if I have an extremely windy night and all I want is to catch a quick nap. That thing is due in on 2 April. Until then I'll drive all four lifts from the same controller.
Back to the hinge, I narrowed it substantially and then took an inch or so off the length of each panel
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Then while I had some working room, reinstalled the folding table. It fit, functioned, and looked great
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Then the front hinge was reinstalled yielding a much better fit
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Improvise Adapt and Overcome
Wait....wrong branch
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As you can see, it overcenters nicely, however the roof can conceivably rock forward or aft quite a ways considering the hinge pivots 180 degrees fore and aft (Yikes!)
I knew that and planned to have opposing gas struts to control that movement, but wanting something bulletproof, I bent up and installed 3/4" steel conduit in such a way that it stores out of the way when the roof is lowered, but will swing down to fasten to the body and completely stop any roof movement.
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Improvise Adapt and Overcome
Wait....wrong branch
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Maybe so, but point us at an enemy and we all act the same!
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Here the second one is installed and both are clad in that wiring loom protector that Salt Lake Dave recommended some months ago.
And that completed the work list for this day, a good spring day!
Hope everyone remains healthy and happee!
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Holly smokes you have done some major work. Excited to see this again
The outside vs inside is two different creatures. Inside almost looks refined and they the outside. Well when ya open it. It’s not all what you would expect
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Holly smokes you have done some major work. Excited to see this again
The outside vs inside is two different creatures. Inside almost looks refined and they the outside. Well when ya open it. It’s not all what you would expect
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Yea, Its coming together sure enough!
And you've made some good suggestions. Looking now at the simplicity and compactness of the four post electrical actuators, that was a keeper.
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Another thing there chief.
The fabric sides will provide all the lateral stability you should need.
We had an old pop up when I was a kid.
Just a four post lift and fabric.
Don’t get too lost in the details of that.
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Another thing there chief.
The fabric sides will provide all the lateral stability you should need.
We had an old pop up when I was a kid.
Just a four post lift and fabric.
Don’t get too lost in the details of that.
I was thinking that too, but you know me...Department of redundancy department and all...
Hey you'll appreciate this
So I was working with Zack over at Motor ops on that duramax trans tune. While talking to him I noted that they had moved from Ontario over to Quebec...something he was not totally enthused about.
Like always, they figured out what was wrong and sent me a new tune which cleared up things.
I wrote him back to say that ever since I loaded the new tune, now my driver's information center reads out on french!
I hope he got a chuckle out of it
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In French...the humanity...
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In French...the humanity...
To fully appreciate it, you should know Zack is a total Ontario/Toronto guy...Was forced to move to Q because of emissions laws in Ontario.
He's not the happiest camper around
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To secure the prop rods. I sourced a couple of those hold anything rubber clamps, screwed them to the ceiling and that was done just like that
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Those store nicely out of the way.
With the roof up it was my intent to finish trimming that out, but I ran out of cedar before completing the job.
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Then I drilled 1/4" holes in the various roof cells formed by the various framing members and started filling the cavities again.
Something bad then happened that never happened before. The foam went to expanding and squeezing out every crack everywhere...What a friggin mess.
I spent the next 20 minutes chasing it all over creation, trying to wipe it off everything it touched. and it seems to have touched everything. I did the best I could, but I have one big mess. I literally threw the (sticky) towel in and walked away...I'll deal with that tomorrow.
Another issue cropped up. I'm not sure if all cylinders crank at the same speed, as the right front corner is several inches lower than the other three. That is putting a lot of strain on the roof, since it is so rigid.
Either that motor runs differently or it has to do with the placement, with that actuator being mounted further forward than the forward one on the left side.
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Take all o the actuators and run them up n down on the floor see if the have the same speed and throw....
What are you doing with your power wires from the ceiling with it moving p n down at the time
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Take all o the actuators and run them up n down on the floor see if the have the same speed and throw....
What are you doing with your power wires from the ceiling with it moving p n down at the time
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The wires enter from close to the floor level.
I am going to adjust them one at a time to attain a level roof, then run them up/down a few times and measure what's going on
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If one has wires significantly longer than others it could be a voltage drop issue too.
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If one has wires significantly longer than others it could be a voltage drop issue too.
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The affected actuator is the furthest away, but that will soon be remedied when i add the second control unit for the front acuatorers.
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I second what Tex said. With it being the furthest away, and you said you were running them on speaker wire it could just be loss over the line.....especially considering you probably pulled that speaker wire out of the Burb while you were working on it. ;)
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https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=13.17&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=12&distanceunit=feet&eres=5&x=40&y=23
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Lets build a frame for this thing
Here the two outside rails are fitted to the back lateral section
Again, the frame is 2" X 4" 11 gage with a .120 wall thickness
It looks like some sturdy steel, certainly overbuilt for this application
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All total it was a bit over 500 pounds, I think I remember hearing them say.
Next up the cross member that fits to the rear of the wheel well was tacked into place after checking corner to corner distance. It came in at less than 1/16" difference, so the initial setup was pretty square.
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The two sections of wood are cut to 36" length and represent the opening of the wheel well
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Next the center beam was added in
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There's a lot going on here.
The sections of pine are positioned where the two longitudinal frame rails will go that fit to the inside of the wheel wells. Since the suspension will attach to these, I extended the rails forward where they are captured by some more lateral beams. This should stiffen that area up to accommodate the forces of those big tires moving about and against the weight of the camper
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Next some intermediate cross sections were added in such a way as to catch the weight of the main body where the front storage box attaches. That attachment is brute strong, and I plan for it to remain that way for a long time!
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Next the 45 degree sections were tacked in that tie the outside rails into the main pulling center beam
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I didn't have any pine welding rod, only some old Oak rod, so I couldn't weld the 2X4 fir pieces to the steel (Shucks emoji!!!)
Anyone interested in buying eastern Kentucky?
If you believe the pine welding rod thing, you may be in the market for half a state!
When those two 36" sections get delivered and welded in, I'll cut away the outer longitudinal rails where indicated, freeing up the wheel well space
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And that's where I left it after this pretty productive day!
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Looking good Chief
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Frame is looking good, but I noticed you have the hood open on the Burb, you doing a fluid change? ;)
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Hopefully that frame dosent catch the square-d/tac-topper virus and infect the rest of the project......
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Hopefully that frame dosent catch the square-d/tac-topper virus and infect the rest of the project......
It takes over a year to actually catch the virus
I should have it sealed up well before then
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Frame is looking good, but I noticed you have the hood open on the Burb, you doing a fluid change? ;)
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Charging the battery, reworking some of the wiring I did. SOmething is causing the battery to drain, so I'm eliminating things until I find that happee place
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Hopefully that frame dosent catch the square-d/tac-topper virus and infect the rest of the project......
It takes over a year to actually catch the virus
I should have it sealed up well before then
:beercheers:
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Don, you keep that up we might be able to get you a job in an Elkhart IN rv manufacturing facility! :popcorn:
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Nooo thanks!
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I picked up the two 36" sticks and tacked them in place
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Then I welded one side, flipped it, then finished welding the other side
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Then some quick work with the plasma torch and the wheel wells were opened up. I left the edges unfinished for the time being, but those areas will be addressed
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Those Timbren axle assemblies are no joke. Very heavy and made from thick steel. Just take a gander at the steel and the hardware:
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Even the spindle is massive and made up of super thick steel as well
It bolts to the trailing arm with 4-9/16" fine thread bolts with locking nuts...Again, no joke!
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Their mounting surface is so wide I had to weld in a sideways piece of 2" X 4" just to accommodate the mass of those arms. I liked doing that, as it added a lot of strength where the business will be taking place
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I decided to just weld them to the frame. Heck, I'm never going to remove them, and they should outlast peanut butter.
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Picked up the lunette ring and mount, along with the safety chains and the wiring harness connector
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I took one parting shot, then set down the camera while I closed down the shop. I turned around to find a grand daughter with my camera.
She'll need some practice... ;-)
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I think she handled the camera well keeps that mug out of view lol
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I like the "welding-hoodie".
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I like the "welding-hoodie".
You sent it to me some years ago, remember?
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Fuzzy pic of the suspension hanging with the frame sitting on portable welding tables ;-))
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Amd I skip welded everything suspension related to the frame
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I tidied up the wheel opening corners with some angle
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Next the lunette ring mount was given a home at the front of the frame, just where you'd expect to see it!
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^^^ After I figure out the exact height, I'll shorten that front mount by a couple of bolt holes. That thing hanging down serves as a great "Wait-a=minute" device
I threw up the front leg/stand here on the outside of a frame rail while I sort all that out.
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The saw horses are holding the frame about 5" too high, so here you can see the aft stabilizing legs will fit fine without modification.. I cannot, however mount them to the side because they would have to stick out too far to be able to use the handle. I can't mount them directly to the rear frame, as the camper structure comes off that point at a 45 degree angle.
So, I'm going to have to come up with some sort of folding leg apparatus that tucks away for travel, but folds out when we hit the campsite
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Here's the 8-lug brake stuff which is big time overkill for this 3500-4000 lb camper
I sprayed the cosmoline type preservative on the inside face of the brake drum in an attempt to fight off rust and corrosion.
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THose brakes mounted up in a jiffy quick
Obviously the bearings were packed with the gooey stuff, and the whole thing bolted together
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I took a short break and created the emergency chain mount from a 9/16" bolt
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Two points
I have seen people weld on the rear stabilizers to a pipe that is removable. Think receiver hitch and hitch mating.
Pull a pin and the can be out of the way Easy
Second
Granted my trailer is lots lots lower then yours but it does have some built in skid points on corners and it drags them regularly. Almost need to replace them. But I think I would benefit your build to add some departure angle plates that can be sacrificed if need be
Thinking Moab trail rig and trailer in my mind
All else looks great in my book
Do You have spots to run wire under the trailer that the wires will be protected from shrubs in the mulch beds? Seen some trailers with pipe welded in.
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Rutt-Roo, Houston, we have a problem
I guess this setup does not like the modern inward spaced wheel offsets.
This dog right here won't hunt
There is an easy enough fix, just install some wheel spacers and I should be cookin' with bacon grease!
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Two points
I have seen people weld on the rear stabilizers to a pipe that is removable. Think receiver hitch and hitch mating.
Pull a pin and the can be out of the way Easy
Second
Granted my trailer is lots lots lower then yours but it does have some built in skid points on corners and it drags them regularly. Almost need to replace them. But I think I would benefit your build to add some departure angle plates that can be sacrificed if need be
Thinking Moab trail rig and trailer in my mind
All else looks great in my book
Do You have spots to run wire under the trailer that the wires will be protected from shrubs in the mulch beds? Seen some trailers with pipe welded in.
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Good points!
I'll look into armoring it up IAW our earlier discussion
As for the routing of wires, I have an idea to punch a 2" hole through the frame front to back, then weld in some 2" OD tubing to allow me to place the wiring and the propane line way up inside the frame
I'm undecided, but I could also hang an aux water tank beneath it, or even tuck one or two partially up inside the frame to give more H2O capacity
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Spacing of the tire in the wheel well looks g-t-g
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And to make the lunette ring more visible when backing in to hook up, and in honor of our Texas red neck friend, I painted the thing a bright red
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I approve! Also that inner tire clearance is fine. Think of it as a mud scraper.
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And to make the lunette ring more visible when backing in to hook up, and in honor of our Texas red neck friend, I painted the thing a bright red
I think you painted it red to match your shin after bashing it on the ring.
How about stabilizer jacks like this? Just make sure they’re tucked up high enough like Dave says.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200402/b05cdda6412c5f9920dff3c964e31b99.jpg)
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What about replacing the stabilizer jack handle with a nut you can power with a cordless impact?
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I like this power tool idea
The Jack’s in the above photo would need some added length. I am not sure the height of dons caboose and to my understanding those don’t fold down that far. But I imagine he could add some length to them to reach out
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What about replacing the stabilizer jack handle with a nut you can power with a cordless impact?
That's not a bad idea at all!
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And to make the lunette ring more visible when backing in to hook up, and in honor of our Texas red neck friend, I painted the thing a bright red
I think you painted it red to match your shin after bashing it on the ring.
How about stabilizer jacks like this? Just make sure they’re tucked up high enough like Dave says.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200402/b05cdda6412c5f9920dff3c964e31b99.jpg)
Ryan, I am familiar with that system, I have one on my camper.
It wouldn't work for several reasons. First it is flimsy. Second it cannot accommodate or adapt to uneven terrain like I would have to deal with on the trail.
But thanks for the suggestion...keeping the gray matter stirred up
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What happens if the drill battery is dead? Ratchet?
The pic I posted - do those type operate in tandem from the single crank point, hence your comment about not confirming to uneven terrain? Agreed, flimsy is not good.
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https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/Stallion/288-01892-2.html
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Saw those pop up too, Dave (see what I did there?? Pop up camper...). Doesn’t look like they really ratchet?
(Ps saw them cheaper on amazon).
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I think they are independent of each other, the should be able to put up high enough out of the way, you control the height with the tongue Jack, lower the Jack’s, raise the front to apply pressure
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On the tandems, like on my fifth wheel (and the photo above)they have a single crank point but the legs float meaning they self level. One touches the ground and then no pressure is applied until the second finds the ground what ever level that is. The electric ones have a manual backup with a wrench. (The nut showing on the end in the photo above) And generally you carry some plastic LEGO looking blocks if you are extremely uneven to make up the legs not being long enough. https://www.campingworld.com/rv-leveling-blocks-10-pack-56865.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyYLWpMzJ6AIVjoVaBR1g0QDWEAQYASABEgJnUPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200402/f70460a6a37c97ef0b490a6fc657be87.jpg)
You can see the rear leveling jack in the photo. Note how long those legs are. Between that and the block you should be able to level up just about anywhere with the small camper you have.
And you are going to want to be level. That top won’t like being pushed up off level and you don’t want your hearing aids rolling off the table while you are sleeping....
Of course the aviator option is hydraulic self leveling....
http://www.thebigfootleveler.com/ez-flip-4-point-system-qez-9f.html
Some have better reach and I’ve seen cylinders that pivot up when not in use.
You know you want to do it. Go Big or Go Home....
Burb with blower...check
Hand built trailer with self leveling hydraulics....check
You will be the most U-neak person on the trail.
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What happens if the drill battery is dead? Ratchet?
The pic I posted - do those type operate in tandem from the single crank point, hence your comment about not confirming to uneven terrain? Agreed, flimsy is not good.
Yep
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Charles, Charles, Charles
When does the man ever let up???
I was thinkin about being U-Neak in the context of my old profession
It was said that doing anything different would get you shot
(Same as trying not to do anything different)
But for now, these are peaceful daze, so...
But no, Don will not be addin' no hydraulicks to no kamper!
Now go to your room!
On another note that tuck up, extending leg jack is nice, but take a look at it and you'll see how low the thing would have to mount. ANd if electrified, how exposed those motors would be to trail damage.
Finally, I have the jacks on property so I think I will at least think through some simple design to integrate those to see if I can find nirvana with what I currently have.
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I like the pipe extension idea.
Dirt simple.
Weld on the included and make an extension of to where it needs with appropriate OD and ID.
OR weld on a new one of right diameter and length and be done.
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I like the pipe extension idea.
Dirt simple.
Weld on the included and make an extension of to where it needs with appropriate OD and ID.
OR weld on a new one of right diameter and length and be done.
Well Samuel, I sort of went with the concept you suggested, but a couple steps above dirt simple.
Before we go there, Here is the place where the wiring harness and propane gas line will enter the actual frame and transit its length toward the back to safeguard it from wait-ah-minute snags
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It comes out at the end of that long central piece of steel, then is given a way through all the crossmembers until it can exit in a protected fashion out the back
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And, Sam, here is the way I chose to deal with the stabilizing problem. The pivot arm provides a multi position mount for the screw jacks. It can fold against the back frame or it can pivot to about any angle to the back or side. I like that because maybe by swinging it six inches I might miss a muddy spot and catch a rock
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Here you can see it in some different positions. The jacks can ride right where they are or be removed and stored elsewhere. I plan to create a mooring station for them on the front of the frame somewhere
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To create them, I sawed a shackle in half, then thinned its width until it would slide into the 2" X 4" tubing. It was bolted to a suspension bushing then the whole thing was clamped up and welded via several rose welds from the side. After that it became very rigid, but swings freely with some resistance
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Then I cut a section of 1/4" plate to slide into the frame 8". I then opened up an irregular shaped hole in the side of the frame and welded the "paddle" end into the inside of the frame.
The weld you see is a heavy second pass over the first bead. I just wanted to close up the dip a little prior to filling and painting
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I think it was Dave's suggestion, or was it Ryan's, or??? to remove the crank handle then weld on a nut. Mission completed!
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^^^ That's a 13/16" lug nut which is pretty universal
With both sides completed, I did some lift testing. The jacks readily raise the frame, however they do flex upward some. I attribute that to the fact that I only had rubber bushings, and a set of poly bushings would go a long way to preventing that from happening. But flex as it may, the three "feet" along with the tires should create a stable enough platform for a gud night's beauty sleep.
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Nice jack set up.
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That will do the trick!
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The lord knows you need that sleep. The better sleep the better we like the self portraits lol
I like the swing hinge idea! Good way to handle and would make it easy to swing around any further bumper build outs. The pivot points and the ability to quickly detach and put in a non thief able location is nice
Any word on spacers?
Built in mud flap hangers or pending some metal skirts for the wheel wells?
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The lord knows you need that sleep. The better sleep the better we like the self portraits lol
I like the swing hinge idea! Good way to handle and would make it easy to swing around any further bumper build outs. The pivot points and the ability to quickly detach and put in a non thief able location is nice
Any word on spacers?
Built in mud flap hangers or pending some metal skirts for the wheel wells?
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Spacers inbound. Found they were relatively inexpensive. I'd rather do that than change the wheel, since that wheel is spec'd for the burb.
You folks keep mentioning the "Theft" thing. I don't think about that because we don't have that around here.
Funny how a free state like Kentucky with guns everywhere and people using them to shoot people who need to get shot drives the theft thing to a place where you don't even think about it...
So, I guess I'll have to make a lockable storage for them, and on that count, I have an idea.
Wheel wells, I haven't decided on anything. But I would like to put some aluminum cladding over the area aft of the wheel well.
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About to finish up on this frame. Just some grinding, then primer and bed liner for the score...after the wheel spacers come in and I run some wires
Here are a couple of reinforcing plates attaching the frame rails to the Lunette ring mount. This is overkill, but by keeping flexing to a minimum, I shouldn't see any cracks
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These angles cut from 1/4" plate reinforce the frame and will provide for points to through-bolt the frame to the body
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The triangle plates will carry one or two bolts and use fender washers on the top side, while the square plates will get 4-6 holes and use the same screws that you attach a metal roof to the boards beneath.
I am using both systems to secure so that I get a solid capture on either end and also catch the floor at many points in between.
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Lastly, I reinforced the stabilizing jack mount points which took some of the flex out, but with rubber bushings, there will always be some.
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We have a few trailer build companies here in ogden, lots of them powered coat things of that size. Is there anyone near you that would be able to take your trailer and powder coat the frame?
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Wheel spacers arrived. I've bolted them on and the wheels/tires fit perfectly!
Pics tomorrow after church sometime.
Oh, all you heathens can join me at church by tuning in at the following address. I believe we go live at either 1000 or 1015 EST
https://www.hfcus.com/
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You preachin or we listening in with you. Being in Utah it’s the 200th anniversary of the Mormon church and not a single person can actually attend
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Didn’t realize you were Mormon Dave? Guess there was a time we didn’t know Ken’s gf was H either though.... :tongue:
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Shoot I served a mission, was a faithful member of that religion for most of my life. Kinda distances myself from that kinda thing over the last few years but we all change we all grow different directions
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Chief, there’s a good chance I missed it, so forgive me if that’s the case... but do have any idea how much that frame weighs? I recall talking about the whole thing a while back being 3-4. But that frame looks heavy which makes one wonder if when your done it’s not going to be closer to The 5-6k mark. Will certainly be interesting to see! Good work either way, and both rigs will pull it with out issue id like to think.
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Shoot I served a mission, was a faithful member of that religion for most of my life. Kinda distances myself from that kinda thing over the last few years but we all change we all grow different directions
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Dave, I won’t toss any stones. I was raised Methodist and I haven’t had anything to do with them since I’ve been an adult and last count that’s about 25 years now. I’ve been in them for funerals and such in the past few years and can’t hardly stomach it. To each their own.
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Yep. Much of my family is and I keep to my self. Lots less drama on the outside of regular religion
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You preachin or we listening in with you. Being in Utah it’s the 200th anniversary of the Mormon church and not a single person can actually attend
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Not preaching, doing security
Next week the pastor just informed us we are having a 50 minute service every hour from 0700 until 1900! basically one each hour with a 10 min break in between. He wants some people to share testimonies. I'll let you all know if I am asked, although I would think not.
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I tuned in, older gent grey hair and a redish pink button shirt?
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Chief, there’s a good chance I missed it, so forgive me if that’s the case... but do have any idea how much that frame weighs? I recall talking about the whole thing a while back being 3-4. But that frame looks heavy which makes one wonder if when your done it’s not going to be closer to The 5-6k mark. Will certainly be interesting to see! Good work either way, and both rigs will pull it with out issue id like to think.
Its heavy but not as much as you'd think. The two prerangers and I can pick it up. The guy told me I was picking up 500 lbs of steel, but after handling it, no way it was 300. Well, a simple calculus is to multiply 3- 24 foot sticks of 2X4 11 gage and that equals 337 lbs. I'm guessing the two timbren suspension arms plus brakes is 90 lbs ea, so 180+337= 517 lbs
And remember, I'll be using warm air in the tires to lighten it all up ;-))
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I tuned in, older gent grey hair and a redish pink button shirt?
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That's him
Cleddy Keith
in his mid 70's and has pastored since early 20's
Was a boxer and a steel worker, hails from Waco Texas.
Good guy
I was there throughout
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Tyler
I have been updating a weight inventory spread sheet. Its the way we track weight in aircraft
I am seeing a weight of 3100 give or take...
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I tuned in, older gent grey hair and a redish pink button shirt?
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That's him
Cleddy Keith
in his mid 70's and has pastored since early 20's
Was a boxer and a steel worker, hails from Waco Texas.
Good guy
I was there throughout
Cut in steel cloth eh? Better keep an eye on that guy..... :wink:
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You preachin or we listening in with you. Being in Utah it’s the 200th anniversary of the Mormon church and not a single person can actually attend
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Not preaching, doing security
Next week the pastor just informed us we are having a 50 minute service every hour from 0700 until 1900! basically one each hour with a 10 min break in between. He wants some people to share testimonies. I'll let you all know if I am asked, although I would think not.
I was watching when he announced that part for next week, interesting idea, different topic/subject every hour. You can grow throughout the day or just have a good message for an hour and duck out.
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You preachin or we listening in with you. Being in Utah it’s the 200th anniversary of the Mormon church and not a single person can actually attend
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Not preaching, doing security
Next week the pastor just informed us we are having a 50 minute service every hour from 0700 until 1900! basically one each hour with a 10 min break in between. He wants some people to share testimonies. I'll let you all know if I am asked, although I would think not.
I was watching when he announced that part for next week, interesting idea, different topic/subject every hour. You can grow throughout the day or just have a good message for an hour and duck out.
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Correct.
The schedule is yet to be published, but in all of that will be spanish church for an hour, and french church for an hour, then a healing service at 1500, and a confessional at another time, and guests coming in throughout to give testimonies.
I'll pull a five hour hitch to cover stuff, then help as needed.
I think true christianity is about serving. If you don't or don't have the heart to, I'd check if you really have the spirit at all. Seems the spirit he gives us wants to:
1. Get back to him
2. Serve him
3. Help others find him
4. seek to better oneself
5. Live out the new creation you have become
6. gather with like-minded people
But if you're just sitting on the buttox and getting fed, but never giving back, never tithing, never getting involved, you are stuck as a baby Christian or not a Christian at all IMHO.
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I tuned in, older gent grey hair and a redish pink button shirt?
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That's him
Cleddy Keith
in his mid 70's and has pastored since early 20's
Was a boxer and a steel worker, hails from Waco Texas.
Good guy
I was there throughout
Cut in steel cloth eh? Better keep an eye on that guy..... :wink:
I do!
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OK time to turn this chat forum back into a build thread
The spacers came in and here they are:
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I had to space the wheel out 4" so here are two of them bolted together to give me the desired spacing, and you can see the spacing worked out great
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Next up I provided some solid mounting for the latches that I plan to use to keep the aft leveling devices secured in the travel position
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At this point I spent some quality time with my grinder, flattening the surfaces that will touch the camper body
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Next I took a cup twisted wire brush on a different grinder and went over the whole frame to remove everything I could and then washed the whole frame down with mineral spirits a couple of times
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The primer I like to use for bare metal is either the catalyst self etching stuff, but that is very spendy, and for new steel which I was able to "Scratch up" with the wire brush, I prefer a good red oxide primer.
THis stuff available at tractor supply stores is inexpensive, like $35 a gallon and is easy to spray and clean up afterward
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With that said, I got after the frame with that cheapo HF sprayer which has been doing a really job for me.
Just look how it laid down the primer:
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Do I know we’ve covered this but keep an eye on those wheel bearings with that much offset. They are designed for 0 offset
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I gave it 2-3 medium coats which took 1/2 gallon for this frame
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Do I know we’ve covered this but keep an eye on those wheel bearings with that much offset. They are designed for 0 offset
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Got a winner!
I said to myself, someone right away is going to point out the offset thing!
Couple of points Tex
first of all the wheels are negative offset and the 2" spacer probably brought them to near their CG
Secondly with the bearing actually subjected to 2" positive offset, remember these are the much larger 8,000 pound 8-lug brakes/spindles/bearings and not the light or even medium duty stuff
Finally with all that bearing in there, the camper is not all that heavy
My concern is more to do with unwanted loosening of all those lug nuts.
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I definitely got a bit of overspray on the floor!
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Don, are those true 2 piece spacers or just two spacers bolted together? Reason I ask is my guy makes legit 2 piece spacers that lock together.
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Do I know we’ve covered this but keep an eye on those wheel bearings with that much offset. They are designed for 0 offset
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Got a winner!
I said to myself, someone right away is going to point out the offset thing!
Couple of points Tex
first of all the wheels are negative offset and the 2" spacer probably brought them to near their CG
Secondly with the bearing actually subjected to 2" positive offset, remember these are the much larger 8,000 pound 8-lug brakes/spindles/bearings and not the light or even medium duty stuff
Finally with all that bearing in there, the camper is not all that heavy
My concern is more to do with unwanted loosening of all those lug nuts.
Asked and answered. The prosecutor will not badger the witness. Nor will I. CM Sir!
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I definitely got a bit of overspray on the floor!
A little is a bit of an understatement......
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Looks like they filmed a slasher movie in that garage.
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If you wet the floor the paint wont stick to it. Spray it down with a garden hose. When it all dries sweep up the paint.
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If you wet the floor the paint wont stick to it. Spray it down with a garden hose. When it all dries sweep up the paint.
And there’s a guy who’s done this before.
And yeah a bit of an understatement.
Looks like a kill floor in a slaughterhouse.
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Don, are those true 2 piece spacers or just two spacers bolted together? Reason I ask is my guy makes legit 2 piece spacers that lock together.
Naw, just two of em torqued uber tttight togedder!
I never knew there were locking together spacers
Who knew?
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Do I know we’ve covered this but keep an eye on those wheel bearings with that much offset. They are designed for 0 offset
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Got a winner!
I said to myself, someone right away is going to point out the offset thing!
Couple of points Tex
first of all the wheels are negative offset and the 2" spacer probably brought them to near their CG
Secondly with the bearing actually subjected to 2" positive offset, remember these are the much larger 8,000 pound 8-lug brakes/spindles/bearings and not the light or even medium duty stuff
Finally with all that bearing in there, the camper is not all that heavy
My concern is more to do with unwanted loosening of all those lug nuts.
Asked and answered. The prosecutor will not badger the witness. Nor will I. CM Sir!
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;-))
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If you wet the floor the paint wont stick to it. Spray it down with a garden hose. When it all dries sweep up the paint.
And there’s a guy who’s done this before.
And yeah a bit of an understatement.
Looks like a kill floor in a slaughterhouse.
You should see my shoes!!
Were nice Merrills
But now, freshly painted M's
Pity
I'll be sad over the whole mess for a few seconds...
OK, it passed, back at it...
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I moved the saw horses and placed the thing on jack stands which allowed me to get to the spots which had been covered and did not get primered. I touched those areas up with a rattle can acid etching primer
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I used Raptor Liner this time, and I have to say, it sprayed out a little better and I got more area coverage than the similar product I used on the camper body
I started by doing the bottom and the hard to get areas
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Then finished the areas above. I chased most of the trailer with a second coat, and even gave a third coat to the wheel well area, and the leading edges of the front diagonals
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I think the front parts go about where I have them loosely located at the moment
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Looks good chief. What’s the story with the final tune on the burb?
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Looks great. Looks professionally done.
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Looks good chief. What’s the story with the final tune on the burb?
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Nick worked on it today. He reports that the cold stumble is out of it. He was getting ready to adjust the transmission shift points around mid day, so I'm thinking that was completed.
It has an AC issue still. The AC unit switches on and delivers cold refrigerant to the evaporator, however that cold does not make it to the air to be distributed. I don't know if its the climate control motor or the BCM. I asked Nick to look into it
I didn't say before, but driving over to the shop I got on it for the first time. W H O A! That truck moves out, I mean it is pretty fast, surprisingly so. And I noted going up hills at 70Mph required very little throttle, and picking up from 70 to 75 to ease past a truck is effortless. You can feel the pulling potential of this thing. A trailer is not going to be a problem.
And then it exploded!
Some of what I just wrote is true...
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Looks great. Looks professionally done.
Thanks doctor Ken!
You gunna come up and see it in person if we can somehow put this trip together amid all this ruckus?
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Looks great. Looks professionally done.
Thanks doctor Ken!
You gunna come up and see it in person if we can somehow put this trip together amid all this ruckus?
Trying to get a trip in to Idaho, to help dig 2000' of trench. Not sure if I can do both.
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That’s a lot of dead bodies....
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Front jack is attached now for the record
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Back jacks as well
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The wiring harness has been run and attached to the 7-way plug
The fish wire is there to drag the gas hose to the rear from the front mounted bottle
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I plan to cut into the harness IVO the brakes to make that crucial connection.
The bundle will then attach to the camper back and enter into the cabin a few inches above the water tank
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I’d make those connections inside some kind of watertight box and NOT use scotchlocks. Heat shrink butt connectors are great for the connections at the brake drum.
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Dang, just caught up on this after it was going into my spam.
Beautiful work so far, like to see how the upper attaches to the lower. Great the linear servos worked too.
4" inch spacers, well that was covered, I feel the same.
I hate the front trailer jack, just always hated those bolted on that way. Have it on my boat, hate it.
This is really coming together nice and the burb runs too!!!!
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I agree with you on the jack. I like the weld on mount better. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/Bulldog/BD178203.html
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Agree, like the jack but dislike the mount. Fix that mo better boss! :tongue:
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Someone could steal it also, weld on seems more theft proof
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Agree on the jack. Don't like the jack itself either. You won't get any sleep with the way that thing will wiggle.
Someone passes gas and you'll roll out of the bed... unless you also plan on putting some of those crank down jacks like someone else mentioned.
Not trying to be mean but the back ones are probably going to wiggle also, even though they look awesome.
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Like others have said don’t just splice in the brakes.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/GRO821000
Something like these work well.
Personally I’d run a feed from the back forward to axles and not have a splice mid way.
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OK, nobody likes the front jack-Copy that!
But, I want to get this thing operational so for now, close your eyes!
I don't quite get what folks are saying about the junction box. I have a 6-foot connector/cable terminated into a watertight junction box. Then I crimped on terminal ends to the seven wires and fastened them to the corresponding posts. Something wrong with all that?
Now, the connection to the brakes
I take it I need to insure I have a good connection, so solder that.
I haven't seen which wires actually connect to the brakes, have to figure that out, but I plan to split the casing of the cable above the brakes, then scrape away the insulation f the applicable wires, then solder on the wires branching out to the brakes. Sound good?
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So I missed the junction box at the front.
I’d run a separate two conductor from there for the brakes.
Keep the sealed bundle sealed under the trailer.
I’m not a fan of splitting a perfectly sealed cable open unnecessarily.
That’s what I was getting at.
And yeah on the jack too. But it works.
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So I missed the junction box at the front.
I’d run a separate two conductor from there for the brakes.
Keep the sealed bundle sealed under the trailer.
I’m not a fan of splitting a perfectly sealed cable open unnecessarily.
That’s what I was getting at.
And yeah on the jack too. But it works.
I think I know another way
Purchase another junction box, then locate that on the frame above the brakes, then run the whole cable out the other end and the two wires needed, one for the e-brakes, and one for all the marker lights out one of the available ports...Check!
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Yeah electrically speaking the shortest run is best. The rest is about weatherproofing. You aren’t building a Hilton. Jacks may be sub optimal but it’s not a 42ft fifth wheel with a wife that complains she has to have a king size bed....
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Yeah electrically speaking the shortest run is best. The rest is about weatherproofing. You aren’t building a Hilton. Jacks may be sub optimal but it’s not a 42ft fifth wheel with a wife that complains she has to have a king size bed....
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A little venting mixed in with the wisdom??? ;-)
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Yeah electrically speaking the shortest run is best. The rest is about weatherproofing. You aren’t building a Hilton. Jacks may be sub optimal but it’s not a 42ft fifth wheel with a wife that complains she has to have a king size bed....
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A little venting mixed in with the wisdom??? ;-)
Yeah not saying that I have experience with that. But I’m not saying I don’t either.
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I like the second jbox idea back near the wheels. I also like to keep the wiring to each brake equal length so that the voltage drop is equal so one brake doesn’t grab harder than the other. Maybe I’m just overly anal about wiring...dunno.
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Chief,
I went back and did a rough over view of how you got to where camper is.... That being said, I did not see a canvas solution (roof to body connection). I did see you ordered some marmi tent material, but that is all I saw. Good chance I missed your plan in my quick read through, but if you don't have a full solution yet, please give me a call we would like to try and help if we are able. Of course if I missed your solution just ignore this and continue mission.
-T
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Chief,
I went back and did a rough over view of how you got to where camper is.... That being said, I did not see a canvas solution (roof to body connection). I did see you ordered some marmi tent material, but that is all I saw. Good chance I missed your plan in my quick read through, but if you don't have a full solution yet, please give me a call we would like to try and help if we are able. Of course if I missed your solution just ignore this and continue mission.
-T
T-I know where you are going with this, and NO, you are not authorized to spend your money on sewing that all up.
Therefore I will withhold critical dimensions from you so you do not get started spending the money THAT YOU NEED for YOUR FAMILY on this crazee project
So what I am going to do is glue the hook velcro to the bottom outside of the flange on the lower section and onto the inside of the lip of the upper section. I'll measure and cut the temper-tent material to the korrekt dimensions and glue the pile velcro to those surfaces.
I purchased the proper glue so hopefully, no issues with the thing pulling apart. I would have it sewn up, but I don't know of anyplace around here that would do something like that.
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I like the second jbox idea back near the wheels. I also like to keep the wiring to each brake equal length so that the voltage drop is equal so one brake doesn’t grab harder than the other. Maybe I’m just overly anal about wiring...dunno.
Ryan,
Hadn't considered the equal length wiring, but, by golly, I'm going to do exactly that
Thanks for the tip
On to the camper body again while I await the arrival of those junction boxes and some propane hose to finish the frame/chassis part.
Getting close to the "Great move" and mating of the two big pieces parts
Yippee!!
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Chief,
I went back and did a rough over view of how you got to where camper is.... That being said, I did not see a canvas solution (roof to body connection). I did see you ordered some marmi tent material, but that is all I saw. Good chance I missed your plan in my quick read through, but if you don't have a full solution yet, please give me a call we would like to try and help if we are able. Of course if I missed your solution just ignore this and continue mission.
-T
T-I know where you are going with this, and NO, you are not authorized to spend your money on sewing that all up.
Therefore I will withhold critical dimensions from you so you do not get started spending the money THAT YOU NEED for YOUR FAMILY on this crazee project
So what I am going to do is glue the hook velcro to the bottom outside of the flange on the lower section and onto the inside of the lip of the upper section. I'll measure and cut the temper-tent material to the korrekt dimensions and glue the pile velcro to those surfaces.
I purchased the proper glue so hopefully, no issues with the thing pulling apart. I would have it sewn up, but I don't know of anyplace around here that would do something like that.
Nah, I was just thinking of helping you sew it all together. Any upholstery shop should be able to help you sew the pieces into one big square.
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Started the final trimming out of the body after I ran the last of the wires. I placed panels like this over the exposed 3/4 and plywood
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I cut it in around everything, and created a hidden channel in which I hid the wires
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After the nugg work on the frame it was fun to get into something not quite as hard or dirty
More trim around the sides, front, and back
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The upper controller runs the front actuators, the lower one runs the aft two
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Trim, trim, trim
I have only a few planks to add to the roof, and trim those, then it is on to making the fabric membrane to connect the parts
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Skeletonized the rear lift hinge
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And continued to trim out everything I could reach. I'm at about 90% complete at the moment
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Next step: Velcro. Starting with the bottom, I applied the recommended glue and applied the hook part of the velcro to the sticky mess
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Then the top.
The lower flange gets hook applied to the outside, while the top inside lip got the same hook material
THis will provide for a 2" sealing surface and should prevent rain, or wind from pushing anything inside.
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That was the main task set for today, so with a lot of time remaining, I reinforced the table support strut with a piece of aluminum
That piece was pretty flimsy because of the grain orientation going the wrong direction, but this made it all mo-betterer
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Next, a folding shelf was added below the window so I can grow flowers or stack up M4 mags, whichever comes first
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And a second shelf was added just aft of that one. I can envision setting a drink or the evening's book on there whilst I drift away to the peaceful battlefield in the sky
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I hope to get to the rear shelf tomorrow so I can find an excuse to carve up this otherwise good carpet. I think I'll just glue it in place and dare any rug-rat to move it!
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So this is where it all sat at the end of the day
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All that's missing is an electric skylight!
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All that's missing is an electric skylight!
Well, that and fabric and a frame and suspension, wheels/tires. and a few other things, but its almost there!
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The kitchen cooking area got a fire extinguisher which required me to relocate the light. Man it's crowded in there, but everything fits!
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Then I added a 5 lb extinguisher to the inside of the camper.
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Now this one was a bit tricky. It is larger and I'm trying to fit into dead space that otherwise would be of no use to me
So I decided to squeeze it in between the actuator and the pantry cabinet. It's kind of heavy so I gave it a strong mounting base:
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And, I wanted the thing to tilt outward and tilt forward to give me a good angle to snatch it quickly. So with the addition of a block of SYP I got the angle that works
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It fit like a glove and sits at the ready, but out of the way of the door
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Next I started fitting that piece of carpet to the back shelf after a good cleaning of that area.
I'll trim it in tomorrow after the glue has cured
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If you recall, I have a cable and a propane gas line exiting the rear frame in the middle. Those will have to make a short run up the exterior of the camper body, so I made up this cover which will enclose and protect everything
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As you can probably figure out I am doing punch-out list items as I work to finish this thing.
So next up, I needed to add a water tank vent line which I forgot to install when I built it, so I milled a hole in the lid with this forsten bit running a vacuum all the while I drilled. Then it was a simple matter to crank the PEX NPT to nipple fitting into the lid coated with some RTV to create that vent.
I may make up some cover for the vent, haven't decided if its necessary
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I looked high and low for a one way valve so that I could plumb the city water supply bib into the pressure side of the cold water lines, but came up goose eggs. So I'll just mount this simple valve in a conspicious place to allow me to have that option of hooking my garden hose up to your house!
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Fire ext good, never enough. I still like my halons but they are getting pricey since the EPA says we will destroy the earth with them.
Note; Move you light again, you don't want in shining in your face but light the cooking area.
Note 2; That bog one inside will get hooked and bumped by everything. Good spot but not sticking out.
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Frame wiring today. The junction boxes came in so I installed one in the frame in between the suspension locations
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I installed two amber marker lights on each side and a required three red set on the back. The wires are in but still "roughed in" with no connectors. I don't want to make the connections permanent until I make sure the wires are hooked up correctly. LED's are backwards and polarity sensitive...
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I think I'll buy a couple spare marker lights. I'll bet they get torn off the first rough outing
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Buttoned up, and protective covering going on all the wires. I left them a little "Droopy" so I could attach them to the bottom of the camper body to keep them well up and out of the way.
The electric brake cables are the same length as per a suggestion by, who, Ryan? Mike? S? K? WHO?????????
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If you build those rock sliders like we talked about. All your lights would be protected
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If you build those rock sliders like we talked about. All your lights would be protected
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I for sure want to build sliders, but not on this round. As time compresses toward our possible meet date on the trans america trail. I don't have the time to get them done now. They will be a part of the Block-2 Mods.
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Fished the propane hard line through the frame. This will supply both the kitchen stove and the on demand hot water heater
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Then covered the wires with the convoluted covering after testing the circuits. All the lights came on so I twisted on shoe water proof wire nuts and called it done. The frame is now ready for the camper body (Minus still needing the tires/wheels bolted on)
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Bolted on the lisence plate holder/light and mounted the junction box where the frame wiring harness will terminate
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Next up, the street water isolation valve was hooked up and installed. This will allow me to run off of a garden hose or use the internal water tank for boon docking
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Yea, I know I still have to vent that gas fume generator, I'll get to it!
Then the heater was hooked up and the propane supply line secured out of the way. I'll still need to seal up the holes I created...
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Looks like space X up there^^^^^
Why do the wire and hose come out the back of the frame, does it overhang?
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Looks like space X up there^^^^^
Why do the wire and hose come out the back of the frame, does it overhang?
It sticks out a tiny bit past the frame but inside the steel sleeve that lies beneath. I wasn't going to run the main propane line inside the camper during the build for fear I would run a screw or brad through it and do to myself what haji failed a few times to do.
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Starting with the wheels, today was paint day. Started off in the usual way with a bath in muriatic acid (nasty stuff)
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Followed that with drying time, then acid etch primer, then paint
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Then we installed them onto the trailer
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Downstairs I created a hand hold to screw in above the door so you can grab and swing out for a not so graceful exit
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That bare lower shelf kept annoying me, so I glued down some of the flooring and trimmed it with wormy chestnut
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I did something up here, somewhere, for some reason...
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I got my mini-helpers to check out the carpeted shelf area. By golly, I do believe the shorter one can fit while the other one can grab the open floor in front of the bed. We'll fit em in there!
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I think I finished the plumbing, but I also think I need a port to directly pressure fill the main tank from a hose connection.
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I’ll have to go back and find my original weight estimate. May have to increase it. We are going to need a certified scale ticket.
Looking good chief. I’d like video of the extrication of the body from the shop.
Now...where is my popcorn emoji while I wait on my pink slip
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Can't wait to see it married up. Wondering what the tongue weight will be.
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He can adjust the tongue weight by filling up the water tank at the rear of the trailer. And if worse comes to worst, he can put extra air in the spare tire to weigh the back down more. ;)
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He can adjust the tongue weight by filling up the water tank at the rear of the trailer. And if worse comes to worst, he can put extra air in the spare tire to weigh the back down more. ;)
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Helium...I'm usin' helium! ;-)
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Installed battery powered smoke and CO monitor/alarms as the first order of business today
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Then I got after the electrical system. I set a goal of having it completely done and feeding off shore power by nightfall, but like always I ended with still needing some parts.
I had the wiring all ganked up, because I misunderstood what the central control unit actually does. Once I figured that all out, I rewired it and finalized that part. I now have everything working save for a pesky water pump.
This time I installed the proper connectors which now hold the wires entering the panel box securely
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With this proper setup, the AC will require I run the generator since its amp draw is immense and the battery could not maintain voltage very long at all. I will, however still have 115VAC on all the outlets without shore power (or with) or the gen set running.
Finally, that is all buttoned up and complete
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I had some strange (old) 30 amp plug which I could not find a mate for, so I swapped that out for the standard 30 amp plug. Now, here's the thing, I never plan to plug in a 30 amp cable, but only use a 15 or 20 amp rated standard extension cord to provide all my electrical needs. This thing doesn't require a bunch of power...I think...
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While I was doing my electrical study, it became obvious to me I would not do well on just one battery, so I did something about that
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And this cable will attach to the Bat hot wire in the camper to vehicle cable which will allow for the Suburban's 160 amp alternator to also charge these batteries while we are motoring down America's highways and byways
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This thing has been one massive effort, and its still not complete. It has gotten very busy inside and out where I strived to use every square inch for some useful purpose.
That grab rail from yesterday found its new home and works well thank you berry much!
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With this proper setup, the AC will require I run the generator since its amp draw is immense and the battery could not maintain voltage very long at all. I will, however still have 115VAC on all the outlets without shore power (or with) or the gen set running.
Finally, that is all buttoned up and complete
I am in the debate of this step with my trailer. I’ll have to get a phone call in to you for some info. My electric needs are much the same as yours just a larger box
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Very nice work, but still want to know where the hot water on demand tank vents?
Dave, when I built mine I put a big utility box on the tongue that held most of it.
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Very nice work, but still want to know where the hot water on demand tank vents?
Dave, when I built mine I put a big utility box on the tongue that held most of it.
It will go out the back, and I seem to be avoiding that step for some reason...???
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Very nice work, but still want to know where the hot water on demand tank vents?
Dave, when I built mine I put a big utility box on the tongue that held most of it.
I have the location for all of it I just honestly look at the electrical task as a nightmare. Wiring anything has always been daunting. I can do almost every other portion of a build myself but electronic wiring leaves like a millennial holding a shovel
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Very nice work, but still want to know where the hot water on demand tank vents?
Dave, when I built mine I put a big utility box on the tongue that held most of it.
I have the location for all of it I just honestly look at the electrical task as a nightmare. Wiring anything has always been daunting. I can do almost every other portion of a build myself but electronic wiring leaves like a millennial holding a shovel
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Well, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Just buy a unit like the one I have. It will take shore power, hook to the battery, take other inputs like a generator for example, and when shore power is attached it will be converting that to 12VDC and topping up the batteries via its organic smart charger, and provide a buss for standard home AC circuit breakers.
I am but a phone call away. I could walk you through it. Don't hesitate, its easy.
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This is the contraption I created today which plugs into my shore power 30 amp receptacle, albeit in a reverse order from a standard RV (Did that so my cable would be unique and less interesting to thieves). I plugged in to the wall, flipped the breakers and just like that I am full up electrically speaking. I even ran the AC for awhile. I can now use the organic lighting while working on various areas/projects
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Doing more punch-out items. I sealed all the holes in various locations in the forward bulkheads. The electrical configuration is more or less finalized so it is time to button those things up
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I made up the short cables to connect to the new second marine deep cycle battery, then made up the rest of the hold down bracket. All of it uses bolts and threaded inserts on the backside to make removal a snap
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With that done, its time to get after that hot water heater vent. I decided to build a cap of double wall construction on the top to fit over the heater and fit then to the aft wall. I'll make a pathway to the outside world through which the 1500C+++ hot turbine exhaust (When on afterburner) can be used to melt the spare tire.
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I made up a curved roof to move the rising warm air along the roof which has an air gap between it and the actual top piece.
The top panels are folded together to add strength to the flimsy prius fender material.
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A water line was in the way, of course, so I cut it away, and just slid the piece into place. The fit at this point is approximate while I take measurements and see how everything fits with its neighbor.
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Now your cooking,,,,,,,
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Don just consider that your exit needs an appropriate sized fresh air draw.
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Don just consider that your exit needs an appropriate sized fresh air draw.
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Splain that purdy please...
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How much of this stuff are you pulling out to get this out the door? Will these things stay put when you turn it over?
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I think he plans to leave everything as is and use the migration from the basement as his shakedown voyage.
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I think he plans to leave everything as is and use the migration from the basement as his shakedown voyage.
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That would do it,
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Don just consider that your exit needs an appropriate sized fresh air draw.
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Splain that purdy please...
Just have a small opening/vent about 3-4 inches in diameter so you get fresh air into the cabin and that will allow the gasses to exit the vent. Like smaller version of a jet. Gotta have air coming into get air to go out
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How much of this stuff are you pulling out to get this out the door? Will these things stay put when you turn it over?
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Most will stay put. Batteries will come out and some loose odds and ends, but most things like the AC for example are held in there with wooden blocks and are secured in all directions
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Don just consider that your exit needs an appropriate sized fresh air draw.
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Splain that purdy please...
Just have a small opening/vent about 3-4 inches in diameter so you get fresh air into the cabin and that will allow the gasses to exit the vent. Like smaller version of a jet. Gotta have air coming into get air to go out
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OK, that makes sense. I have the roof vent, and three windows, but was thinking of adding a vent anyway just to keep moisture and condensation to a minimum while sleeping. People make a lot of humidity!
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I think he plans to leave everything as is and use the migration from the basement as his shakedown voyage.
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Post one demerit
Think of it like a strike and you're up to bat
Three strikes and you're OUT!!!!!!!!!
;-)
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Added a couple of flanges to the hood/vent thing. SHould keep it just where I placed it
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Next up, let's build the outside fixture of this heater vent
I slash cut a piece of 3" exhaust tube, then split that along its vertical axis. Then a couple pieces of steel panel were wended in between to create the wide oval I was looking for
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Then it was grinding and finishing followed by painting
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Next the outlet pathway was created. Note 1. The proximity to the hot end and 2. The heater vents are facing the wrong direction
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Which I then corrected. Now the vents will direct air aft toward the outlet
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The outlet was given a generous coating of bedliner material. That pretty much stopped "vent development" for the evening. But come tomorrow, I'll have a proper surface to work around
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:popcorn:
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I did get the next layer of tin in place to form part of the thermal barrier I think this may need to keep fires inside the heater and not on my mattress!
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And this where I left it at COB today.
Tomorrow should see the completion of this heater project.
I want to remotely locate the battery pack that powers the thing, then reroute the water line I had to snip. But that will bring that part of the build to completion.
And BTW, the loop velcro showed up, so canvas stretchin' n hangin' is about to start
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Don that’s downright ingenious use of exhaust pipe on that vent. Very nicely done.
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Don that’s downright ingenious use of exhaust pipe on that vent. Very nicely done.
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I agree, looks good. Was it any harder now vs when everything was open or were you waiting to see what room you had?
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Anyone notice that strange looking piece of cardboard he’s welding on?
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Thanks gents!
That's welding approved cardboard
Came from the same place as some of my earlier welding tables :shocked: :grin:
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Don that’s downright ingenious use of exhaust pipe on that vent. Very nicely done.
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I agree, looks good. Was it any harder now vs when everything was open or were you waiting to see what room you had?
I wouldn't say it was hard, but probably would have been easier way back when it was less crowded.
Maybe I'm just used to working in cluttered spaces, at weird angles, where things are hard to reach...
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Added a water tank vent cover to make a better nesting spot for mud daubers
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Added the tin to the outlet hole. Heat barrier, rain block, whatever you choose to call it, there it is. I secured the tabs on the inside bending them around things, then hammered the 1/4" I had protruding into a lip which I later sealed with RTV
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I modified the heater to place the battery box on the outside facing the crew area to make change outs easier
Sort of reminds me of the flare dispenser mounted to the side of my hook!
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So why not direct wire to the main system?
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Louvres adjusted and additional mounts added to angle the operation toward the outlet and buy me a tad more room to access the bottom should I ever need to
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So why not direct wire to the main system?
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Well, it's three volts not 12 is the reason I decided not to do it and I did think about it!
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And after juggling things around I ended up with a pretty good fit and sealed it off with the aluminum duct tape
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Added a stubby gas line and reconnected the water supply line
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Then I gave in to adding the direct garden hose tank fill connection. The valve on the inside isolates the tank from the inlet
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Then that vent cover was secured into place and sealed with silicone. I plan to add some mesh to the inside so I'll have something to clean that easily clogs!
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The right rear corner seems to have become the business end of the box
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Picked up a new 5.5 amp (or is it peak HP??) shop vac
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Electrical system is still operating as designed. Batteries indicate 13.5 volts
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Yeah we can figure the resistors to drop 12v to 3v and connect to the main system
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Probably a 270ohm resistor but we need to know the current or wattage of the igniter.
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Think they also have 12v power strips that put out 3v, 5v, 12v so you could have USBs and other things running from your same battery system.
Bet a single 18650 would be perfect there otherwise replacing the heavy D cells.
It is all covered up though, right.
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I'm not going to over think or over engineer this thing at this point in time
The objective is to get it roadworthy next month and mostly usable for the early June trip out west
Block 2 mods will address whatever I learn from actually using it some.
And I do have 5VDC USB outlets scattered about in the cabin
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Not saying change a thing, sure you it all covered somewhere in there, just been a LONG thread and the Burb is going on too!
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Ordered the ICECO VL74 frig.
After looking at many units and taking some time to consider everything I landed back on my earlier first choice, and now it is enroute.
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You never heard back about the group purchase?
What was your finally shipped price
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You never heard back about the group purchase?
What was your finally shipped price
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Yea, Dave, they never wrote back.
I never pursue (Except when I was chasing after the prettiest girl in the world) so that's where that is, done.
They seem to have manufactured controlled minimum pricing. The VL-74 goes for a low of $809 found on Amazon and a normal price like I found on Ebay of $859.
I paid the $809 + Taxes, shipping was free.
The Whynter 85 quart for much less, $649 was a kun-ten-der, but in the end the feedback is overwhelmingly positive for the ICECO, and the handles of the Wynter did not pass muster. The ICECO unit seems to be milspec.
We'll soon witness it in action. I plan to plug it in on day one and never unplug except for short periods here and there. I want to evaluate how well the two solar panels manage the current draw of the thing while in action.
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You never heard back about the group purchase?
What was your finally shipped price
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Dave if you’re looking for a cooler, Ironman4x4 has theirs on sale through the end of the month with free shipping. They have a two compartment 68 qt that is appealing. Has a good warranty too.
https://ironman4x4america.com/ironman-4x4-ice-cube-dual-zone-twin-compartment-off-road-fridge-and-freezer-65l-powered-cooler/
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I am looking but my wife just reminded me I don’t need a cooler, the camp trailer I took apart had the fridge I needed lol
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The write up in that advertisement must have been done by Don....
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Iceman...
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Time to build the canvas part of the camper.
Starting with a reference mark, I measured the thing carefully making note of every detail.
Next those measurements were transfered onto the actual material
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The appropriate recesses were then cut out
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The velcro is a heavy duty type and laid out flat onto the glue surface on the fabric
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There was quite a bit of snipping and sloppin' on the glue but we managed to get the entire top run completed. That little helper seems to show up quite a bit. After working on the camper some more, we went outside and weeded and planted bulbs for a couple of more hours!
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Nice wrestling mats you have there!
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Nice wrestling mats you have there!
...And they do get used!
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First install of the fabric membrane connectin' the top to the bottom :smiley:
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In these pics the material is not trimmed for length and therefore all snagged up on things and not very free hanging
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And here it is getting trimmed to proper length
After trimming off the excess, I removed it again, laid it out, and glued the loop velcro onto the opposite end of the fabric.
I'll allow it to dry overnight, but it was already pretty much set up when I closed out this evening
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These contraptions will become a clothes hangar loom. I plan to mount them to the roof aft of center which will give me a spot to hang up clothes that will really be mostly out of the way and allow for 14 to 16 extra items of clothing to be carried
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Can you attach some clear to that green wall of China? Seems like your missing opportunity for some free light, fresh air if it had a screen of some type
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Can you attach some clear to that green wall of China? Seems like your missing opportunity for some free light, fresh air if it had a screen of some type
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I was thinking of making a few mesh panels to place overtop some "Windows" that I could cut out, then another closure window to keep rain out.
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Should be able to stitch in some clear with velcro and some mesh. Roll the clear up. Similar to a jeep top window?
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Should be able to stitch in some clear with velcro and some mesh. Roll the clear up. Similar to a jeep top window?
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Roger that
Just placed my order for both clear vinyl and vinyl coated mesh in black along with some more velcro. I'll add those winders jest as sune as de gets heer!
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Not sure if a zipper would work in this application like a tent trailer. Maybe Ken can inform us what his tent walls look like with his recent updates on the pop tent trailer roof repair.
Ken...
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Not sure if a zipper would work in this application like a tent trailer. Maybe Ken can inform us what his tent walls look like with his recent updates on the pop tent trailer roof repair.
Ken...
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I'm the last person he needs opinions from at this point in time. .. plus I can't lift my roof to see inside at this point in time. Lol
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So windows.... look at fourwheelcampers, as well as wanderthewest.com for ideas. There is a method to sewing them in so they don’t leak. And most builds that use that material, use Velcro for the clear vinyl over the sewed in mesh, only. The top and bottom is sandwiched in with aluminum sheeting and high bond strength double sided tape.
Check out posts 32&34. The whole build is amazing but, those two are relevant to windows.
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/14920-diy-camper-build-from-scratch/
I personally would advise against simply cutting a whole in it and sewing mesh and velcroing vinyl in it you want that portion mostly water tight. That being said, I look forward to seeing what you come up with and I have never sewn on that material personally so really don’t know anything about it other than theory.
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I now have the fabric installed and it fits great!
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A look aft and also showing the roof mounted coat hangar fixtures, one on each side. On those I drilled one with 1.5" spacing and the other with 2" spacing for heavier/thicker garments.
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Cooler is in!
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And I picked up the hardware to do the lift and rotate followed by the drag, followed by another rotation, then a final hoist and set in place
The system I am creating will utilize some sections of E-Track with locked in tie down rings. Those fixtures will be permanently affixed to the camper and possibly be used as tie-downs or some other purpose.
I plan to use a web sling around the front of the camper routed through the rings with one come-a-long 8K unit lifting the front, and two 8K units at the rear, one on each corner to lift the heavier section.
I should have all that bolted on tomorrow after church sometime
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So, it is somewhere in the ballpark of 10k pounds ;)
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So, it is somewhere in the ballpark of 10k pounds ;)
Yea, maybe
If the plywood
Turned into lead
;-))
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Set up a video this I want to see
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Give me a shout if you need a hand. I figure that if I stand on one side and you are on the other, we’re socially distanced.
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Dave can take video
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:popcorn: :popcorn:
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I am wondering if I should do a modification right about now and install a cassette toilet, like those Thetford units
Thinking out loud here, momma is coming along...We will be out in the wilderness for at least 7 days
All I have is that folding chair thing with a plastic bag...
I could cut an access in just below the folding table...I think, and get it in there
It would be inside a door...for her
But it would also have some unpleasant odors a couple feet away from the snooze site
Hmmm...
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No. Get a portable toilet shelter and put it 10 ft from the trailer.
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I saw those on some RV builds. They look great but the outdoor closure sounds good. Can always use it inside, but keep the room open.
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My cassette toilet broke the first time I took the girls camping, for reference.
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No. Get a portable toilet shelter and put it 10 ft from the trailer.
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Do this.
Get a shelter.
Get a decent porta pot. I can’t recommend one as a bag and bucket is my fare.
Iffin mamma ain’t happy...ain’t nobody’s happy.
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I bought one from REI last year. Sturdy fold up affair. Uses bags with liguid absorber inside.
Back then I also bought a Kelty shower tent which would also double duty as the outhouse. I plan to use that, but build a fixture onto the camper that folds into itself inside a guncase looking box. Just open, extend the arms and lock and the thing is g-t-g.
But I may just take the tent as is and set it up neat the camper so that we can shower using the campers unit I built into the side.
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So, here's my lifting strategy.
Bolt these E-Track sections to each of the four corners and use several come-a-longs to raise it bit by bit. Having timbers beneath for part of the lift, then sliding the table beneath, then finally when I am sure all is well, maneuver the trailer chassis beneath it, lower, and marry the two units
These are the E-Track plates
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Securely attached to the body with 10 ea #10 X 1" stainless screws
Using standard E-track tie down rings as the connecting point, the mount is complete and ready to attach to
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Then the little fabric loops were glued to the inside of the vinyl material. These will be used to hook bungee cords to so that when I lower the roof, something pulls the fabric inward. I do not know if it will work, but I'm about to find out
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I'm not sure what they make that glue from but it sticks those pieces together like Armee buddies!
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I've got them everywhere
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And they are even applied with patches of velcro to keep the sides from flapping to vigorously.
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So now its time to clean the thing out, pull all the parts and tools and debris out from all these months of building and see what I have.
That cable which supports one of the shelves, also doubles as a bed frame holder if you would like to dig around in the bin below the bed for that perfect blanket!
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Time to pull the bed frame out and throw in the mattress.
I can say I was a bit excited to see it coming together finally.
I crawled onto it and took a 15 min nap with the overhead fan on. It was nice!
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Then it was collapsed and turned into a couch.
I'll have to do something about the exposed framing
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Looks good. Just 15 min, mine are much longer!
Is there a min distance or cover for the water heater? Looks close to the mattress.
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Looks good. Just 15 min, mine are much longer!
Is there a min distance or cover for the water heater? Looks close to the mattress.
Now look man, I use cardboard boxes as weldin' tables. A mattress sittin on a propane water heater ought to be OK!
Geez...
;=)
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Know what you could use on the inside for pulling the fabric in? One of those truck bed bungee spider net things.
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Know what you could use on the inside for pulling the fabric in? One of those truck bed bungee spider net things.
Just turn the fan on full blast,,,,,,,,,
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Know what you could use on the inside for pulling the fabric in? One of those truck bed bungee spider net things.
Just turn the fan on full blast,,,,,,,,,
Frikin' brilliant JR!
Really, good idea!
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JR, as it turned out the fan was not necessary, it worked great as planned as you will see in just a bit
First, I spent the day experimenting and doing doo-dads here and there.
The wood frame part of the bed was an eyesore and uncomfortable, so I covered it with some carpet
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Then I started testing the top retraction with 48" bungees attached to those previously glued in straps
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It was about now that I realized I could simply create rope loops that spanned the wooden hinges from side to side and those should pull the fabric inward, and I was correct. That's some very old 11mm dynaflex climbing rope the 10th special forces group guys gave me back in the day. Sort of nostalgic! If you recall the crazy night I dropped those crazies into a lake at the base of a mountain under NVG, and they somehow climbed that rock all night long and I picked them up in the morning. The story where I had to back into the cliff and my aft rotor started pruning pine tree branches. This is one of those very ropes, still serving the nation!
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So here is the bungee jungle:
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And now for the collapsing roof and what happens inside whilst all that is going on. It was so easy, and worked so well, I had to check to make sure I actually did the work. Seriously, no splinters, no holes, no tearing, ripping, crushing, breaking, cracking, stretching, nadda! It just folded down and that was that!
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Still folding just fine!
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And all the way down!
If we wanted to we could easily sleep inside with the top down.
I ran the air conditioner for awhile and it powered down the temp very nicely, but really heated up the exterior enclosure. I'm thinking I may have to install a marine bilge fan to keep temps down in there.
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Outside picture
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With that done, I corrected the top hold down latches mounting location. I had them a bit too high. It appears as if I will need to install a spacer/collar between the top and the body to tidy things up. I'll build that tomorrow.
After that I taped a bunch of wires against the wall in the cabinets making ready those spaces for clothing that will not tangle sparky stuff.
Then i finished the water connection thing, adding a valve to the contraption. I plan to add a visual water level gage below the fill neck, the valve will help me top up, but not overfill the tank
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I did a couple of other things I can't recall and didn't take pics of, so that's it for now...
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JR, the pics you wanted:
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I'm still fixing and adding things before I push it out. Maybe I'm stalling...psychological thing, dunno.
I always wanted to install a weather station in my other camper, but haven't remembered to get around to it. But I remembered to put one in this build, here it is:
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That looks great, tucked in nice.
With all the electronics, did you add Wifi?
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I wanted one with an anemometer to measure wind speed. I figure it will be good to know if its safe to have awnings deployed. I'm thinking 13-15 knots constant wind or a five knot gust spread anywhere in there would be starting numbers to call it quits and pull the material things in and lock them down. I very well remember a night in the california desert where the wind picked up and we were later told gusts hit 70 mph. Well the short story is that it wiped our "Campsite" out. I was not sleeping in the temper tents or the GP mediums, but in an old hex tent I purchased surplus and would take to the field with me. I literally had the only piece of fabric that was not totalled, and my tent suffered several broken joints. The troops had to run for the trucks or the insides of the chinooks.
Well, I learned and therefore wanted something other than rocks hitting the side that things were getting bad so I added it.
As you can see it is remotely mounted and is battery powered and folds for transport
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That looks great, tucked in nice.
With all the electronics, did you add Wifi?
I do not have wifi, but plan to use my I-Pad as a local hotspot for internet. I will bluetooth link my TY and computer to it to stream movies and post here while on the road
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I used some farm raised cedar which I was shaping to use as main bearing saddles in an oak engine I'm building with cypress pistons and a safarass cam.
But until I turn that hickory root into a decent crankshaft, I'll use the cap right here!
;-)
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I have a remote temp sensor which I have temporarily beneath a solar panel, but will prob move to the back end somewhere
Anyway, now I have a rudimentary weather station
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Looking good. I’ll leave this here.
https://www.wilsonamplifiers.com/vehicle/rv-and-campers
You’ll be in some remote places.
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You're a bad man!
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My brother just bought something like that so they can work from the road. Takes two SIM cards and picks which one has the best signal. They won’t be as remote as you though.
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Ryan, Tex, I'll have to look into that
We discussed it when I was building the burb, and I never got around to getting anything.
Well today two big things happened. First it was Mother's day, and although my mom has long since passed on, My wife is still very much a mother. So that took a sizeable bite out of the day, and the other thing ate its good measure. We had real church! We were one of the churches represented by the foundation for freedom who took our governor to court on Friday. The lower court held that he could order a church closed but allow a liquor store to remain open, labeled as an essential activity...yea...human depravity...
Well, the lower court which has an activist judge was surprised when the freedom foundation immediately filed an appeal. Now get this. They filed Friday at 1400 with the courts closing at 1700 for the weekend. But the appellate court decided to remain open for the weekend to hear the case. That judge struck down the lower courts ruling and labeled us and other churches in the law suit as essential services. So today for the first time, just one day after stuffing that communist judge's decision we opened our doors.
We were flooded! Trying every way we could to stay six feet apart, we still got some 350 people into the sanctuary. We even had bikers who heard we had fought and won show up. There were people in waiting areas, outside the doors and our parking lot, two of them were filled.
People are hungry to hear the word of the lord and meet in his house again.
Oh and to hell with communism if I didn't say that already!
So where were we, build thread I think...
Here is how the anemometer installation turned out:
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Next I installed the final top trim/seal piece
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After doing that I lowered the top, then adjusted the accuatorers to level the top. I raised it back up, then laid down some weather strip foam tape.
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And then lowered the top to a perfect seal against the foam. The latches are really not necessary, but I adjusted them and locked them down. At this point the top is completely done and ready to go
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Then I went over the whole structure, sealing everything with RTV, making all final adjustments and began removing things for the lift/rotate/drag/rotate/and lift again exercise that could come as early as tomorrow
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Sure looks good.
Curious, why the weatherstrip on the bottom vs the top?
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I sure can’t wait for that lift and rotate levitate video
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And the sub going through mall mulch.
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Sure looks good.
Curious, why the weatherstrip on the bottom vs the top?
The weatherstrip is on the top and not on the bottom
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Sure looks good.
Curious, why the weatherstrip on the bottom vs the top?
The weatherstrip is on the top and not on the bottom
Not protected much down there, just wondering.
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Sure looks good.
Curious, why the weatherstrip on the bottom vs the top?
The weatherstrip is on the top and not on the bottom
Not protected much down there, just wondering.
Doesn't really need anything. All the sealing is going on inside the red filler piece. It just dresses things up some, provides a flat platform for the top to rest on, seals the bottom fabric velcro attachment, and provides for a dust seal for motoring. It is paint on bedliner on the bottom and will allow any liquids getting in behind it to weep out
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We started the day with a three man, massive cleanup of the shop. Figured it was easier to work around this bulky camper with nothing to slip on.
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Then little bit by bit, we raised the end while padding the opposite side.
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As we approached the critical tipping angle, we set up a ramp of 2X4's with carpet and cushions to keep it from going all the way.
Although a tense moment it was all about nothing at all. It just tilted and rolled a little and came to rest on the ramp
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Close to going on the frame!!
Love the shirt,,,,,,,,,,,
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From there with a floor jack supporting the weight, the 2X4's were removed and the camper was rolled up onto a few furniture dollies.
From this point we will push the thing over just a few feet, then winch it out of the door to the outside
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Close to going on the frame!!
Love the shirt,,,,,,,,,,,
Yea that boy is West Point or grunt style (or Grunt life??) all the way. Single minded pre ranger.
Like he says, "Yea, but dad you helicopter pilots don't really do anything!!!"
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Mamma know you had her couch cushions out there?
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Mamma know you had her couch cushions out there?
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old sofa, but I can neither confirm nor deny the actual useage of a real cushion or a stage prop
*No furniture was injured, damaged or abused in any way in the making of today's installment
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See you got the batteries on the bench. Load that puppy up!
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See you got the batteries on the bench. Load that puppy up!
We're gettin' after it!
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Coming through the door. It fits with very little room to spare
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I had plenty of help from the wrestlers from high school. This time we shoved it over onto a pile of 2X4's and cushions.
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Then I attached to three come-alongs to some temporary blocking I screwed into the joists overhead and began to lift...slowly
But the boyz had plenty of goof off time during the work
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We kept lifting and adjusting the chassis position, shoring up the camper body as we got higher
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I directed the boys as they carefully lowered the body a click at a time. We had to use a jack to move the frame laterally, and roll the nose around on the nose wheel, but eventually, I got it all where I wanted it to be
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Then came the magic moment when the two were joined. I quickly drove in 16 wood screws to hold things as they are until I can motor the thing back up into the garage for its final fitting out to be made road ready.
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And the first thing I noticed is it sits too low. The tires have barely 2" clearance with the wheel well, so I'll have to address that tomorrow.
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Now I have to ask why is the man door on the driver side of the camper, seems backwards for no other reason then. That’s not where they go
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Now I have to ask why is the man door on the driver side of the camper, seems backwards for no other reason then. That’s not where they go
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You just noticing that?
Cause I wanted it there
No place it has to be
Custom build, I could put it in the roof if that's what I wanted
I can see where it would work on the opposite side like most campers, but I was thinking it would be just a quick sprint to the truck drivers door in the rain.
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Looks good boss.
Unfortunate that you glued the suspension on so well. Could have been an easy add 2” if they we only tacked. I suppose you likely have a plan already in mind though.
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Was going to ask about the GVW, but the squat covers that. Can you address the height or do you need to space it up?
But, its ON!!!
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Doors in the US are on the drivers side. My fifth wheel had a door into the second bath on the passenger side. It made bathroom stops easier because it was opposite the traffic
Edit. Backward. Is is passenger but I had a door on drivers to the rear bathroom supposedly because in Australia they require a door on the side opposite traffic for roadside stops.
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Looks great, you do good work Sir.
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A little jab saw work should fix the clearance issue..... :popcorn:
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Was going to ask about the GVW, but the squat covers that. Can you address the height or do you need to space it up?
But, its ON!!!
Plan to shim the rubber block
Needs about 2-3 inches to make me feel OK
Not a lot of bounce though
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I’m awaiting the scale ticket....
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I’m awaiting the scale ticket....
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:popcorn:
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I’m awaiting the scale ticket....
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:popcorn:
:popcorn:
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Why on earth is that so important to you all?
If its light, it's light. If its heavy, its heavy
Whatever it is, its still going on trips...
Girls...
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Looks great. Close to end of job! :likebutton:
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Looks great. Close to end of job! :likebutton:
Yessir
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I agree, looks good. Even the suicide door :rolleyes:
Think we all thought it would ride way higher, looks like a low rider.
How is the attachment happening?
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I agree, looks good. Even the suicide door :rolleyes:
Think we all thought it would ride way higher, looks like a low rider.
How is the attachment happening?
About done...
But have to raise it about 3". Tires almost touching.
I had no way of really knowing how it would all fit together. The only way was to just toss it together and adjust the result to arrive where I need to be.
Short break, just washed it, cleaned out the bay and backed it in
Back to it
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I don’t know Don. I think it’s beyond fixing and will probably end up being an emotional drain on you during this already stressful. Pandemic. My deep respect for you as a fellow military man makes me feel obligated to say this: I’ll take it off your hands, that way you can take everything you’ve learned from this one and make one that won’t hurt as much. I only say it because I care. Just think about it at least.
:D
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I don’t know Don. I think it’s beyond fixing and will probably end up being an emotional drain on you during this already stressful. Pandemic. My deep respect for you as a fellow military man makes me feel obligated to say this: I’ll take it off your hands, that way you can take everything you’ve learned from this one and make one that won’t hurt as much. I only say it because I care. Just think about it at least.
:D
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OK, Air Force, I took two seconds to think about it...No!
Anything else?
Zoomies...
;-))
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Passing by the burb. Color is way off, and I have to say, the paint job on that camper is horrible. I can't believe I sprayed that. Seems that the metallic ran after I sprayed it. But the whole thing is going to have to be resprayed. Probably after the trip, but if I can spool a buddy's body shop in a day or so, you just may see the worlds fastest camper paint em up you've ever seen!
Oh and it's light. The J Deere pulled it with no spinning, no labor and almost no RPM
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Just washed and ready to enter the bay where it will be finished
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And so it begins, final fitting out
Batteries going in, fuel can mounted, electrical shore power plugged in and checked
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Frig dropped in and plugged in. With the AC running it cooled right down...Check!
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Next, to the suspension. It needed a couple inches of lift, I pulled it down, then fashioned up a spacer and reassembled. I retorqued the spacer bolts while I was in there. The fat hockey puck is the up limiter which I will have to cut to size once I get the height I want
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Spacers in, wheels back on and resting on the suspension, I realized a 2" lift...About right
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I agree, looks good. Even the suicide door :rolleyes:
Think we all thought it would ride way higher, looks like a low rider.
How is the attachment happening?
It rode low because ......
It’s heavy
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Have you filled your water tank yet?
Had to remind myself that puts some good weight behind the axle, and balance out the trailer and tongue weight. Sure a nice build.
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Have you filled your water tank yet?
Had to remind myself that puts some good weight behind the axle, and balance out the trailer and tongue weight. Sure a nice build.
No, has the drain plugs out, that is coming right up though
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Look, the sub is playing in the green mulch!!!
Metallic is hard to spray, a pewter grey would look nice though.
Still think it needs more lift. No water or gear really. Have you contacted the axle company yet?
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Look, the sub is playing in the green mulch!!!
Metallic is hard to spray, a putter grey would look nice though.
Still think it needs more lift. No water or gear really. Have you contacted the axle company yet?
I think I figured it out.
The suspension components are for a 5K or a 6K trailer, but the rubber block (Spring) is for a 3,000 lb trailer, so it compresses a lot more than it would if it were a more robust soring.
I think I'm going to add a pair of air bags to it so that I can adjust the ride height. Maybe keep it low for going down the highway and raise it a bit when negotiating high-center obstacles
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The color is pretty close, probably a perfect match after the sun goes down.
Seriously looks darn good.
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Why not just get the 5-6k puck?
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Looks good, Don! I think the paint is fine. Has a bit of a weathered look, plus, once you roll down a gravel/dirt road, the dust gathered will mask any imperfections. ;-)
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Looks good, Don! I think the paint is fine. Has a bit of a weathered look, plus, once you roll down a gravel/dirt road, the dust gathered will mask any imperfections. ;-)
agreed. looks like bedliner shot over wood grain to me. a pretty perfect example actually. different angles catch the light differently etc. just let it be. not a whole lot of wood construction, off road, hand crafted trailers out there for comparison;-)
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Looks good, Don! I think the paint is fine. Has a bit of a weathered look, plus, once you roll down a gravel/dirt road, the dust gathered will mask any imperfections. ;-)
Thinkin' like a tanker!
I always thought it was amusing the pains we would go through to camo our M-60A1's with paint and things, when really after one road march the thing was always the color of its surroundings!
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Why not just get the 5-6k puck?
JR, I ordered the air bag kit last night.
When one of U's mentioned the weight of the water, I came to realize the weight will vary widely as will the conditions I find myself in, so might as well make the suspension adjustable to accommodate
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Looks good, Don! I think the paint is fine. Has a bit of a weathered look, plus, once you roll down a gravel/dirt road, the dust gathered will mask any imperfections. ;-)
agreed. looks like bedliner shot over wood grain to me. a pretty perfect example actually. different angles catch the light differently etc. just let it be. not a whole lot of wood construction, off road, hand crafted trailers out there for comparison;-)
My concern is with what looks like runs. There aren't any runs per see, but the metallic grain seems to have settled in a waterfall pattern that makes it look like it is full of runs. It does not look good and will drive me crazy. I'll eventually fix it but for now it is game on with just a couple weeks to go.
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Looks good, Don! I think the paint is fine. Has a bit of a weathered look, plus, once you roll down a gravel/dirt road, the dust gathered will mask any imperfections. ;-)
Thinkin' like a tanker!
I always thought it was amusing the pains we would go through to camo our M-60A1's with paint and things, when really after one road march the thing was always the color of its surroundings!
My point, exactly.
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Propane line got a "Y" fitting and is starting to get connected. Front side:
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Back end, I had to make a hole to bring the gas and the trailer harness into the inside
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I also shoved some extra wires into the bundle for future uses I do not yet envision.
Once zip tied together, the area was given a liberal coat of RTV and the top cover screwed down
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I did some plumbing of H2O lines, but did not take any pics, I'll get them tomorrow
Here's the exploded view as this thing continues to grow in size and operational abilities
Looks like some of the weather stripping peeled off and stuck to the roof panel!
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:likebutton:
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Looks great Don. Was thinking about that AC. What if you made the cover removable when stationary to get better airflow?
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Looks great Don. Was thinking about that AC. What if you made the cover removable when stationary to get better airflow?
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It opens up Tex...
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I think the whole thing looks great honestly, The fire drill after you break wind in it for the first time will be fun to hear about
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Wow, that’s awesome. Great work. And who cares if it’s on the heavy side... biggest gripe with production campers is that they’re flimsy and weak.
Besides, it’s the aerodynamic drag that would hurt you more than an extra 1000 lbs, and you’re not going to have any drag to speak of.
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Looks great Don. Was thinking about that AC. What if you made the cover removable when stationary to get better airflow?
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It opens up Tex...
K. I thought a while back you were talking about needing to create more airflow. CM
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Looks great Don. Was thinking about that AC. What if you made the cover removable when stationary to get better airflow?
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It opens up Tex...
K. I thought a while back you were talking about needing to create more airflow. CM
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I remember that conversation, but I guess I didn't. Probably forgot to cut in another vent, but it is cooling the inside of the camper well enough. I'm just going to press on with what I have and see what works and what doesn't. Thinking about it using the features that work will be great, and dealing with what doesn't will likely be fun too.
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So the big bad bear today was the generator. Get it running, check it all out, see if it powered the unit, what works and what doesn't.
I started with a light disassembly and checkout. Everything was great, so I topped up the gas and pulled it four times before it rumbled to life.
It is way quiet. Like you can hear it, but it is not bothersome at all. I ran it a good six hours and had the AC unit on for part of that and then on and off several times to load it all up.
Once when it was running in eco mode, I flipped on the AC while the frig was running. THe motor sped up, then threw an overload code and rolled back to the idle mode. I reset it and it never did that again.
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You can see the fuel level after 6 hours. Very little fuel was used. I'd venture to say it would go almost 24 hours at that load, but with the AC on all of the time, I think it would run maybe half that time. The AC compressor kicking on causes the motor to spin up to full speed right away, so it is definitely taxing the little generator.
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My little assistant held the big nut while I tightened the small fitting.
The gas line is now in and complete, save for one worrisome fitting I need to carefully examine. Some sort of flat face technology and not the flare I was thinking. Inside those lines are all in now except for the branch running off to the stove. I think we'll just do this trip out of bottle coleman gas.
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The water system is almost completed. The clear poly tube will serve as the water level indicator and get mounted in a protective fixture on the side. The other side is a utility drain in 3/4" pex
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That and some little stuff is how far I got today. Had to run down parts in the morning, then I could only work part of the day. The pastor asked to have the whole security team show up for tonight's service. I had to start cleaning up at 1745, so it turned out to be a short day
Now, open discussion. Anyone think I should add a sway bar to the suspension? I am about to add air bags to either side which will control sway some, but should I add in a real sway bar?
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If you travel in side winds coming through the draws you will wish you had one. I don’t have one on my dump trailer but one time with a load of wood going down hill I wished I had one.
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I was concerned about that HD ratchet strap holding the propane bottle. Please tell me that’s not a permanent thing? That edge can cut that strap in no time at all
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I doubt a swqy will help the low profile.
I'm not sure about the exposed rear gas line?
Hows the hot water.
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Hot water? Not yet. no water in tank yet and I don't like a gas line fitting...
Ratchet strap on gas bottle, HD, yes, permanent, well for this trip, yes. Just pulls downward. the steel straps hold the bottle. Strap applies pressure down to pinch and hold the 2X4 blocking
Sway bar, still undecided, thanks for the input
Rear gas line: No more exposed than some in my travel camper. It has a steel lip below and a whole lot of camper hanging above, and spare tire yet to come
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I’m not sure on sway bar.
Those torsion springs are pretty good at not bouncing.
Square foot wise not sure if you need or not.
And we have yet to see a scale ticket.
Weight would play in as well, not just to get it on a scale for others.
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I’m not sure on sway bar.
Those torsion springs are pretty good at not bouncing.
Square foot wise not sure if you need or not.
And we have yet to see a scale ticket.
Weight would play in as well, not just to get it on a scale for others.
Well the air springs came in today, so likely get to those after the church tomorrow
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Finished wiring in the tail lights and other rear lighting
And did some crude labeling which will work for the Mrs if she's doing the chores inside
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Air spring parts:
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This is one of those kits designed to rapidly slam a low rider conversion, so I guess I'm perverting the intended purpose of these things
The mounts add a convenient angle which I'll use in this application
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Bu trial fitting the parts I discovered they would work with very little modification. This kit was designed for a late model Dodge Charger.
I cut down the mount and used the top plate as is. It fitted in there quite well actually
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Left side installed with line hooked up
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No air in the bag just yet but resting on the suspension. I'll pump it up a bit higher than this and adjust for the 400 pound increase it is about to get with a full tank of water.
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I was almost finished with the right side when the welder went on the fritz. For some reason the wire will not feed through the tip. Almost as if the OD of the wire suddenly increased.
I'm out of new tips, so tomorrow I'll run out and pick up some and get back at it.
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Self explanatory
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Here's how the water tank fluid level indicator will look, fit:
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I finished bolting the body to the frame, running a couple more bolts to fasten things together. The shock bushings are cheap body mounts. Above I filled the void with silicone a week ago. Compressing it effectively has the cabin structure riding on flexible rubber like material
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And both sides air bags are installed, lacking only a couple schrader valves and the fitting of the front snubber which I can't do until I set final ride height. You can see the difference between compressed and flexed suspension modes
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Don, I feel ya! At least you had gloves on. My wound is just starting to heal enough for me to bend the finger all the way without splitting it back open
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Rub some sawdust in it. It’ll be just fine lol
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Don, I feel ya! At least you had gloves on. My wound is just starting to heal enough for me to bend the finger all the way without splitting it back open
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I knew you would "feel" that.
This sanded away a grove in my joint. The skin/covering is completely gone. It sawed about 1/8" into the bone. We were looking at it after cleaning it out. I'd say 3-4 stitches would do it, but I am trying a field repair. Pulled together with bandaids, after packing with antibiotic cream, then covered with masking tape. Going to give it a week and see what I have going on.
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I did that a while back, but not to the bone. Wouldn't that call for duct tape?
Project is official, blood has been drawn.
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In my med kit i carry the 3m steristrips, superglue/dermabond in addition to the stapler and sutures.
Ive only had one that came close to having to use the stapler.
Those grinder type mishaps often leave so much of a ragged edge that its hard to suture or staple. Better just using the steristips to hold it together while it heals a bit. I put a piece of a tongue depressor under the finger and taped it to keep me from bending it too
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In my med kit i carry the 3m steristrips, superglue/dermabond in addition to the stapler and sutures.
Ive only had one that came close to having to use the stapler.
Those grinder type mishaps often leave so much of a ragged edge that its hard to suture or staple. Better just using the steristips to hold it together while it heals a bit. I put a piece of a tongue depressor under the finger and taped it to keep me from bending it too
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It's not painful (Nerve damage?) and I am not all that hampered. Burning metal at the moment...life goes on!
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Air suspension is now complete. It will go higher, but this is the ride height I think I'll work with
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Water tank level installed and that is complete now. Next step is to fill the tank...tomorrow maybe
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Those runs in the paint are really wearing on my nerves. To have put that much effort in it and to have it looking like this...
I can see it coming, I'll paint it again.
Anyway, I sealed most the compartments now with weather stripping. I have a very tight seal. With the new rubber, the pressure is stressing the hinges and the hardware. We'll see where it all sits tomorrow
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The electrical compartment is not cooperating!
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The seal in the frig compartment is very good!
I installed latches top and bottom to suck the door down. With the rear of the big sub so close, in rain, a lot of spray is going to be directed backward, so a good seal is essential
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Next up is the construction of the spare tire carrier. Starting with a sheet of 11 gage, I laid out the pattern and first drilled the many holes that will evenly distribute the weight over a large area. I will weld in some stiffening ribs here and there but I wanted to keep it on the light side if possible.
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Don, don’t worry about the paint. If that rig makes the trip and it doesn’t need body work when it’s over I’ll be surprised..... :popcorn:
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Don, don’t worry about the paint. If that rig makes the trip and it doesn’t need body work when it’s over I’ll be surprised..... :popcorn:
Yikes!
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Let's build this tire carrier. The plate was ground down and prepped
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Next I welded in four 14mm X 1.5 pitch bolts, one long and three not so long to give me a guide to hang the wheel on when lifting. That was fitted to a thick wall 3X3
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And that was then attached to the backing plate
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And then reinforced with two angle sections
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That was thoroughly cleaned, then sprayed with acid etch primer, then several coats of bed liner
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That came out OK. The spare is now securely mounted, aired and ready for the trip
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I'm trying to finagle this pipe into the design as storage for prop rods and fishing poles. You know the bamboo things we have in the tuck...
Anyway It's drain pipe, 6" ID which I added stiffeners to to create a more robust mount. It will mount above the AC and span the front which will expose it to branch rash, but will in turn deflect some of the pounding the front plate would have taken.
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Here is the awning getting prepped for the install. You may recall the threaded inserts I set and glued to the inside of the roof. This will bolt into those in eight different places
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First few holes drilled but things are fitting nicely
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I used stainless allen socket head bolts which allowed me to tuck them in there tight to the side rail
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So I have it sorted with the roof closed, but things will change drastically with the roof raised so I am working on a design to give me a sloping roof that is more rain and wind resistant.
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It just squatted 2 more inches. :facepalm:
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:popcorn:
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Can this travel down the road with the top up?
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Can this travel down the road with the top up?
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No
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Well it might be no but that doesn’t mean you won’t try at some point
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Can it be moved to position properly with top up? Yes, because this is feet moves at very slow speeds.
Can it be driven a couple miles with the top up? No, because well, wind. I also do not think the struts could withstand much movement in extended position.
Velcro is only so strong, and that would be one heck of a sail in its up position.
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Can it be moved to position properly with top up? Yes, because this is feet moves at very slow speeds.
Can it be driven a couple miles with the top up? No, because well, wind. I also do not think the struts could withstand much movement in extended position.
Velcro is only so strong, and that would be one heck of a sail in its up position.
When the top is up the hinges overcenter which stabilize it laterally to the point it doesn't move at all. Then with the side steel poles latched down the fore and aft movement stops. I guess you could move the thing with the top up at low speeds, say if you chose a spot that was flooding. You could easily drag it to higher ground. But to travel? The whole purpose of a pop up is to create a low profile while travelling, then "Explode" into position once you stop for the night.
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Don just said his camper is going to “explode”. His words, not mine.
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(https://media1.giphy.com/media/l0IxYWDltdHEqujnO/giphy.gif)
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:likebutton:
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Can it be moved to position properly with top up? Yes, because this is feet moves at very slow speeds.
Can it be driven a couple miles with the top up? No, because well, wind. I also do not think the struts could withstand much movement in extended position.
Velcro is only so strong, and that would be one heck of a sail in its up position.
When the top is up the hinges overcenter which stabilize it laterally to the point it doesn't move at all. Then with the side steel poles latched down the fore and aft movement stops. I guess you could move the thing with the top up at low speeds, say if you chose a spot that was flooding. You could easily drag it to higher ground. But to travel? The whole purpose of a pop up is to create a low profile while travelling, then "Explode" into position once you stop for the night.
Chief, I’m tracking, I was kind of expanding on your no answer. We owned a trailer with a tent on it for a few years, and every now and again, you set up the tent to find it’s not level enough for sleeping, so you might move it a couple feet to get it more level. But no they are not designed to be hauled in the open position.
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Can it be moved to position properly with top up? Yes, because this is feet moves at very slow speeds.
Can it be driven a couple miles with the top up? No, because well, wind. I also do not think the struts could withstand much movement in extended position.
Velcro is only so strong, and that would be one heck of a sail in its up position.
When the top is up the hinges overcenter which stabilize it laterally to the point it doesn't move at all. Then with the side steel poles latched down the fore and aft movement stops. I guess you could move the thing with the top up at low speeds, say if you chose a spot that was flooding. You could easily drag it to higher ground. But to travel? The whole purpose of a pop up is to create a low profile while travelling, then "Explode" into position once you stop for the night.
Chief, I’m tracking, I was kind of expanding on your no answer. We owned a trailer with a tent on it for a few years, and every now and again, you set up the tent to find it’s not level enough for sleeping, so you might move it a couple feet to get it more level. But no they are not designed to be hauled in the open position.
T-Copy
Well today was one of those days when you take one step forward and one step backward
I have been working on both the burb and the camper. On the burb until the daily thunderstorm hits, then on to the camper which is inside still. I'll cover the burb in its thread.
The theme of today was supposed to test the water tank and then move on to figuring out the awning system, how to brace it and compensate for the additional roof height.
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With the water hooked up, I pressure checked each valve and associated fittings for leaks...so far so good
There is actual water pressure against the system in the photos
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Then the filling began
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After some time I noticed a very slow drip start
Then I noticed another
I want to say I had three consistent leaks going and was frankly starting to feel pretty low, so I did some quick reading
Will wood expand to seal itself in time???
Well the answer is, yes it will, and I almost went with that, but this is interior ply and do I really want parts of it to expand and later seal? Take a chance it will not? Introduce moisture that will cause mold to grow?
Well, it is too late in this game to make small corrections. At this point you make big changes and go with it, or toss the thing and try something else.
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I decided not to repair the leaks for fear I may be chasing after one followed by a never ending number of leaks and never have satisfaction the system works. Here's what I went with. Its a flexible 52 gallon water bladder made for the boating industry. They shove these bladders in nooks and crannies everywhere, and that is what I am going to do here. In hindsight, I should have done this from the beginning, but it is what it is
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That long one at the bottom is almost the exact size of the cavity I have to work with, 69" X 27" X 10" and the capacity nearly matches the tank I would have had. So it's ordered and on the way. When it gets here I'll install it and make the necessary modifications to the system already inplace.
Wasting no time, I cut the tank open in preparation for the new bladder
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I added the two back up lights I wanted to augment the existing tail lamp bulbs
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^^^ Only the right one pictured
Then I started sorting out the awning, but stopped short of actually doing anything while I try and figure out exactly what I need to do
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You saying the many costs of epoxy, fiberglass are still allowing water out? Wth!
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You saying the many costs of epoxy, fiberglass are still allowing water out? Wth!
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Yea, I know. I can't find any evidence examining the interior of the tank either. Who knows, but has to be some small pin hole/air bubble somewhere.
I took an hour to think about ti. If I had these leaks at this point, then what might happen when I start pounding it on a rocky trail??? I feel settled in the water bladder concept. And in reality it will only set me back about a day.
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There are companies that sell plastic food grade tanks for about any size on eBay. I think a hard tank would be better then a bladder that would cause vacuum like a camel bag.
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https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-RV_Fresh_Water-sf-Water_Tank.aspx
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Chief, who made the awning? It looks like it works just as is in the risen position.
If not, maybe some 12” length of pvc just big enough to fit over the legs with a hole drilled through both for a pin. Quick, simple, practical.
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I like the bladder idea, but I think a poly tank from the get go would have been better. Think of all the work it would have saved.
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Chief, who made the awning? It looks like it works just as is in the risen position.
If not, maybe some 12” length of pvc just big enough to fit over the legs with a hole drilled through both for a pin. Quick, simple, practical.
Darche...
I thought about that, prop up the legs some and boom! A high ceiling open awning.
As for the water bladder, heck every aircraft I ever flew except for a jet or two had bladders fuel. I have refueled from fuel bladders all over the world. I slept on them and I sling loaded them. A big water pillow was all one village I worked ever had. Bladders are great and conform to the odd space like the one I have. Hind sight is always 20/20 but I wanted to do something different. Given time I could have worked out the bugs on this one, but I'm itchin' to get on the road.
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I like the bladder idea, but I think a poly tank from the get go would have been better. Think of all the work it would have saved.
Copy JR
Knowing what I know now, I would have designed around a plastic tank and called that done. Lessons learned...
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Well since you have torn into it now, I think rebuilding around a plastic tank would be the right way to go. Bladder might be ok but all the fittings could be incorporated into a plastic tank. After all that is an earthquake on wheels.
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Well since you have torn into it now, I think rebuilding around a plastic tank would be the right way to go. Bladder might be ok but all the fittings could be incorporated into a plastic tank. After all that is an earthquake on wheels.
Bob, with that forty five slant in the back at best I would lose a bunch of capacity. This bag is better than a hard tank in my view, as I have seen them used for decades in the aviation industry and am very comfortable with them, and it is enroute and I am taking no more time in designing anything, just correcting and fixing things at this point. Time to travel!
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Well since you have torn into it now, I think rebuilding around a plastic tank would be the right way to go. Bladder might be ok but all the fittings could be incorporated into a plastic tank. After all that is an earthquake on wheels.
Bob, with that forty five slant in the back at best I would lose a bunch of capacity. This bag is better than a hard tank in my view, as I have seen them used for decades in the aviation industry and am very comfortable with them, and it is enroute and I am taking no more time in designing anything, just correcting and fixing things at this point. Time to travel!
When are you guys leaving KY?
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Well since you have torn into it now, I think rebuilding around a plastic tank would be the right way to go. Bladder might be ok but all the fittings could be incorporated into a plastic tank. After all that is an earthquake on wheels.
Bob, with that forty five slant in the back at best I would lose a bunch of capacity. This bag is better than a hard tank in my view, as I have seen them used for decades in the aviation industry and am very comfortable with them, and it is enroute and I am taking no more time in designing anything, just correcting and fixing things at this point. Time to travel!
When are you guys leaving KY?
Well, soon I guess is the best answer I can give.
I am only waiting on this water bladder to show, then install that.
The larger issues are: This COVID overreaction has closed a bunch of options for us as far as places to stop and stay, restaurants and stuff like that.
That, and the prerangers are fully into conditioning for football by mid July. In fact this year the coach wants them conditioning by mid june, but I told them fat chance!
So we will be leaving soon, and if not west, then somewhere we can actually get some support at.
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Well with all this I’m prepared for doomsday a trip to wy from Ky would be a good test
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OK, back from a short break in the Florida.
Covid 19 or 20 has cramped mine and other's style and the trans America trail was all but impossible due to the state of WY more or less being closed to our effort. So I threw in the towel and provided a standard and very relaxing vaca on the beach for the family. Now that we are back and after some necessary farm catchin'-up I'll hitch the wooden box up and make some littlerer trips.
I did a few more things to it, and if I have the time I am going to repaint it because I just can't stand the sloppy paint on the passenger or drivers side. (or the front and back too!)
I ran the AC for hours on a few days and noticed the cabinet would get pretty hot and the AC efficiency was hurting, so I bent up a prop rod to keep the door more opener.
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Then with the 55 amp electrical control box doing some funny stuff, I just hard wired a battery monitor charger to the incoming 110VAC circuit. Ever since the dual electron collection boxes are holding 13-13.5 volts
I gave things some additional grounds as well
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Here's the new 52 gallon water bladder made for boats.
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I had to reroute some lines, but it was easy-peasy
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Almost all hooked up
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Glad you enjoyed the Vaca.
Now I see its time for more fluid issues,,,,,,
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All that is remaining is to fix the inoperative roof fan, mount up some pioneering tools and repaint then its off to the races with this one
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Glad you enjoyed the Vaca.
Now I see its time for more fluid issues,,,,,,
Yea, a couple.
Going to remove the commercial topper from the Duramax truck and build a rack to carry kayaks and junk, then all sorts of things on the H-D list (first word:honey) then I need to do something stupid to the suburban.
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Does the stupid thing you need to do rhyme with burbamax?
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Does the stupid thing you need to do rhyme with burbamax?
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It could
Maybe "Burbins"
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I have it all sanded down and about 40% masked up for the repaint. Will post up some pics when I get a bit further.
But recently, I repaired a faulty switch in the roof fan fixing that. I completely finished the water bladder installation and ran that system. That all works fine, but the on demand water heater is no-workie. I fixed a slow air leak from one of the air springs, but it seems to have come back...ERRRRR
I traced down some electrical problems and repaired all that.
I got the top all fixed up and working well enough to call that serviceable
Finally, I stripped it down again and sanded it forever, then washed with mineral spirits, and now I'm into the final masking. Goal is to use in in a week or two for some fall hiking in the colorful forests that are starting to show up
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New Update: First I worked all the bugs out and got the water system working. Pic shows bladder with 50+ gallons squashing down the suspension
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Then I ran down an electrical problem which was keeping the roof fan from coming on. That is fixed and it works now. I found a very slow air seep from an air line and thought I fixed that, but the air bag went flat after 24 hours again.
But I went on to prepping for the repaint
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That was a sanding with #150 grit on an orbital and a lot of detail work, then masking
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I re-primed all the areas where the bedliner was sanded through, as well as some metal parts. I then sprayed them with a fresh bottle of U-Pol Raptor bed liner to completely prep for paint
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I had a complete gallon plus a can of activator to spray so I ended up laying down four coats of Urethane paint in the same color as the Suburban
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^^^ I can see just a tad bit of striping on the big right side, but its OK with me and a world better than that hideous crap it covered.
I'm good
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I like grey, blends in much better than black.
Just saw a couple vids of people using the 1101 as a base for a build. Long as you have a ladder to get in!
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Looks good Chief. If’n it’d been me I’d have probably treated it like a working rifle. Throw it on the ground and hit it with some rattle can camo paint in a few different colors.
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i see that you have cats!....how do the cats and dogs get along?!
what is that huge lime green tube that you have sitting in the back of the garage?!
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Looks good Chief. If’n it’d been me I’d have probably treated it like a working rifle. Throw it on the ground and hit it with some rattle can camo paint in a few different colors.
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I can still do that
And if we ever got to a place where ancharists are everywhere, I could still rather easily do that
Although
I still say all you need to do is splash mud on a thing and throw a branch or two on it to make it blend in pretty well
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i see that you have cats!....how do the cats and dogs get along?!
what is that huge lime green tube that you have sitting in the back of the garage?!
No cats
Sled dog ate a few of them,
I shot one or two and the others figured it out and departed the staging area.
Green tube used to bury things
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i see that you have cats!....how do the cats and dogs get along?!
what is that huge lime green tube that you have sitting in the back of the garage?!
Waterproof toilet paper holder
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Green tube used to bury things
Like the cats? :)
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Green tube used to bury things
Like the cats? :)
Naw, leave em beside the road...feed the buzzards. They seem to like two day old cats
No, I don't care for catz
Good barn critters though
They keep mice and snakes down
and when you want to practice'
You can go into the barn and hunt cats
Kills off the slow ones
Darwinism
The faster more stealthy catz breed and make for more cat-huntin' and fewer mices
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Reassembled the camper
and
I put it back together again :rolleyes:
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Mounted up the air bag lines. Right one still leakin' :facepalm:
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In my biased opinion, it looks quite a bit better and better sorted, although less sinister
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So next up is the mounting of the pioneer gear. Here is a quickie-do mount for the tread things which will probably be more body protection than traction getters
Somple angle iron mounts with studs. On one end "Thumb-screws, aka homemade and on the other studs which accept retainer clips
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Fitz like dis:
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Hope to get them in paint today, got them into primer by the close of the day
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Get rid of those push fittings and get some proper compression fittings.
And by the way. I like cats. Miniature versions of the perfect killing machine.
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All it needs now is rotors. It has everything else !!!
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Get rid of those push fittings and get some proper compression fittings.
And by the way. I like cats. Miniature versions of the perfect killing machine.
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I agree with that
Still fun to hunt though...
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All it needs now is rotors. It has everything else !!!
:likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton:
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This build is sweet! Great work man!
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I got you mike!
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This build is sweet! Great work man!
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Danke'
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Paint scheme is very " A-Team" van looking.
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Paint scheme is very " A-Team" van looking.
That louvered front cover opens and closes for m14 fire, the sides are armored for ricochets that sound more like whistling petes, and after the firefight the paint will be like new.
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Back to this thing now...Some changes and finishing touches to prepare for the TAT, Wyoming trip in July
I have an awning installed way up high on the camper top. That places the thing uncomfortably high and will allow for a lot of rain to blow in from the side. Therefore, I redesigned that setup. Instead of just a single section, I opted for a good Danchel 270 degree unit that will keep all of the kitchen area beneath eight feet of roof.
I started with fabbing up the mounts which I bent from hardware store sourced angles
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And mounted them thusly:
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5/16" SAE bolts slid into the slot in the aluminum channel the Danchel awning uses for a backing
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To keep water from dripping down the side of the pop-up, I plan to glue on a 18" wide section of the same heavy gage vinyl already used for the top walls
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I also wired in a couple of 12 volt sockets, one for the frig, and one for future use
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Pulled the wheels/tires off today and carried them down to the powder coaters. They will be made the same color as the Suburban wheels.
Next is to figure out the suspension.
Discussion: So when I welded that assembly in there way back when I positioned it relative to the wheel house. That placed the wheel mounting flange about 4" inside the wheel well opening. If you recall, I added a double spacer onto the brake's, wheel flange. I think that is fine because the bearings are set up for 8,000 lb axles and these may carry 2500 each in extremius.
But there is another issue. With the suspension at the riding designed height, my camper is a low-rider with not too much up travel in there before body contact. The solution would be to position it 4" lower which would give me the ride height, and to kick the assembly outboard so that the tire is even with or even slightly protrudes from the wheel well. I could always wrap a shorty fender up and around and all the while, gain some stability as a bennie.
So tomorrow I'll get into the design mode to see if I can come up with something better and more streamlined than what I currently have...
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If I understand.... you want to put a lift on it basically and push the suspension a little wider is all?
Can you or do I not remember correctly, can you put a brace from right and left side to tie the block together?
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If I understand.... you want to put a lift on it basically and push the suspension a little wider is all?
Can you or do I not remember correctly, can you put a brace from right and left side to tie the block together?
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I'll have some pics tonight, but its set up as independent suspension.
I think it needs more, possibly longer travel, definitely a set of shocks, and very likely, a sway bar to keep the thing sunny side up
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So, this will be the last major work done to the camper prior to launch to Wyoming for the Real-Man meet-up and group hug.
The suspension just sits too low, and I think it needs a total redesign, but I just don't have the time to pull that off and get any tow-time on the unit prior to launch.
So I'm just going to provide a simple lift to get the clearance I need, add some shocks and a sway bar and call it good.
I still have a bunch of little things to sort so time is of the essence!
Here's the suspension blown apart. Look at the beef in that bushing...Insane!!!
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So after examination, I discovered the swing arm is built in such a way as to limit the amount of droop going on. It simply bottoms out. I cut the interference area away allowing the thing to droop much further. OK got that part solved easy enough!
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Next was to add some height without having to rely on the airbags which could fail and render me no-mo-go.
To do that, I will be adding a custom built spacer to sit on the rubber pillow block the factory designed
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This rubber block is sandwiched into the arm and mount assembly and is located with two studs on the bottom and one hole on the top which slips over a stud on the upper mount.
So, the plan is to fab up a simple wedge spacer to force the space the spring occupies, downward. Here is how I answered that requirement from 1/4" plate
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Drilling a one inch hole through one end and welding a stud to the other, then painting the thing with acid etching primer, I think I have what I'll need
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Did I spy a steel welding table? :popcorn:
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Think he has a HF welding table, but cover it with cardboard for "effect".
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Looks like he’s using the piece of 1/4 plate as a table as he cuts away at it.
Heavy looking unit though, huge bushing.
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Did I spy a steel welding table? :popcorn:
I weld on the wooden table. Steel table is for storing things
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The spacer I fashioned tucks all the way in when installed, but here's the stack-up
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And I have the desired height I was looking for. Nothing radical, but it was so low before I'm guessing I would be scrubbing the wheel well with the tire on every bump
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I needed to space out the airbag as well, so I simply cut a spacer out of a scrap piece of SYP. Simple, easy, and it did the trick.
I'm looking at this as a temporary thing, as I will likely chop out all of this and do a long arm suspension after the Wyoming trip
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And here it is put together:
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The HH-66 adhesive came in so I taped off where the rain deflector panel would affix, then with glue applied to each part, I carefully pushed them together.
Note: This glue is serious stuff. There is no getting the panels apart once they touch!
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Next I glued it to the awning case, which makes this all permanent unless I want to cut it all apart.
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:likebutton:
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So what happens when the wood evacuates that space under the air bag?
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That’s when it takes flight ;-)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210514/6e3d68ff4df08f9f9e1f1f45ffca8845.jpg)
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So what happens when the wood evacuates that space under the air bag?
in 20 years? after I have sold it? After I already installed a new suspension? After I'm dead?
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think he's just ribbing you Chief. if I recall someone here used some hardwood body supports on a fummins here someplace :rolleyes:
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think he's just ribbing you Chief. if I recall someone here used some hardwood body supports on a fummins here someplace :rolleyes:
I did, they still reside on that frame under the steel flat bed. They however aren’t part of my suspension design. Although I have some new alcan springs coming soon, maybe I can make some pine shackles for it too.......
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think he's just ribbing you Chief. if I recall someone here used some hardwood body supports on a fummins here someplace :rolleyes:
I did, they still reside on that frame under the steel flat bed. They however aren’t part of my suspension design. Although I have some new alcan springs coming soon, maybe I can make some pine shackles for it too.......
We need to introduce Don to Teflon blanks so he can cut em into other shapes lol
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think he's just ribbing you Chief. if I recall someone here used some hardwood body supports on a fummins here someplace :rolleyes:
I know he was. Was I too harsh? I have a reason for asking
Wife and kids say I am too harsh, to abrupt.
So I checked, and nope, systems all checked out fine
I seem to be perfectly balanced and normal
;-))
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Moving right along...
Looking at things long enough and you will see defects in design.
The air conditioner door has louver style vents which are open on the bottom side. From there moving inward, the AC unit takes up most of the cavity, but not all.
Picture my driving through a rain storm. The rear tires are going to pump water up toward that vent/door at just the right angle. Without realizing I could be throwing all sorts of water into the interior.
So I made up a simple fabric flap for travelling which can be tossed up for overnights when I may want to run the AC
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Next up was finding a place to mount a sway bar.
Since I deviated from the engineers design with this robust suspension, I will add both a sway bar and a pair of shocks.
To facilitate attaching of the sway bar link, I created this tab/extension and welded it to the end of the trailing arm
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The bar is the universal one I once had hanging on the Dodge project truck.
I'll use these weld on blocks to secure the bar to the frame of the camper
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After a lot of wire brush action, and flap wheel smoothing and then a solvent cleaning, I painted the parts with the red paint I had left over from painting the calipers
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I picked up this theme from the cool off road campers the Aussies are importing. They get all red or yellow with the undercarriage, which in my estimation, looks pretty snazzy.
The other parts either got acid etching primer, painted, or coated with bed liner.
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I only have to fit some shocks, put it all back together, and remount the wheels (When they get back from the powder coater, and I'm done with the hard stuff.
Coming up will be an interesting process where I go to create a title from thin air, the the thing registered and tagged for use all over these sometimes united states
Getting closer all the time!
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I was wondering what happened to this project. Coming along real nice.
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I only have to fit some shocks, put it all back together, and remount the wheels (When they get back from the powder coater, and I'm done with the hard stuff.
Coming up will be an interesting process where I go to create a title from thin air, the the thing registered and tagged for use all over these sometimes united states
Getting closer all the time!
Everything is looking good !
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Pushed ahead, finishing the sway bar installation, well 99% done. Still have to source some new hardware tomorrow to button it all up.
That KBS Motor-coater paint is really good stuff. This was just one coat!
The sway bar bushings are greasable as are the control arm bushings, so that's a good thing.
Here it is all test assembled:
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I was able to reuse some factory sway bar end links off (I think) a Toyota.
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I welded the sway bar mount to the camper frame after adding a doubler to provide more area to spread out the load. It all seems to fit very well, and the camper is resting on its suspension in these pics
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A little bit of eye candy from the outside looking in
Left to do: Find some shocks and build some mounts for those
and
Remount the tires/wheels when the powder coater folks finish with them
Now off to find suitable shocks. I have an extended length of 15" and a collapsed length of 11"
I think I'll find some with a bit more stuff, but keep the extended length in there as a built-in suspension limiter.
4" of travel doesn't sound like much but that's 8" from side to side, and keep in mind, the guys who designed these suspension arms designed it to have less travel that that!
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What sway bar is that from the dodge? Need something for the burb and Dmax, getting ideas.
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What sway bar is that from the dodge? Need something for the burb and Dmax, getting ideas.
Yes, I had it on that W250 build...Kept it
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Got the three camper wheels/tires back from the coaters
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Started/finished the shock mounts this afternoon. Keeping it simple I sawed off equal sections from a 4X4X.250 angle and created lower and upper mounts.
The lower mount contains a standard bolt-through-bushing setup, while I opted for a simple stud mount for the top
The big holes are for weldment
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Rancho RS5000 shocks with the stud top mount. Makes it all pretty easy
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Test fitted. Shocks will have plenty of stuff and droop to allow the suspension to cycle a lot more than the designers had originally allowed for
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Couldn't leave the shocks alone
Tex will like this
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First pic is resting on the rubber pillows. Second pic is with some air added. Third is the RMTUA (RealMan thumbs-up Approval)
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All done save mounting the shocks tomorrow after the paint has cured.
Pre-rangers hoisted the spare onto the mount
I'm happee
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:likebutton:
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Looks good.
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Couldn't leave the shocks alone
Tex will like this
I approve..
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Couldn't leave the shocks alone
Tex will like this
I approve..
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Thought you'd like that!
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Back at it on this thing...as the days tick away until its go time for the summer's Real-Man meet in Wyoming.
On the inside I worked out some bugs on the lift mechanism. I had some binding of the lift actuators which was due to a slight shift of the top fore-aft as the hinge mechanisms unwind and stand up. I elongated the holes for the aft lifts, relocated a couple mounts and just like that, I had that working fine. I plan to semi-permanently mount a couple of spare mechanisms inside just in case I see a failure on the trail.
I have come up with all manner of modifications and changes, but all of them will be tabled until after the trip is finished. The floor is perfectly set up for hard foam board to provide insulation. In the middle is a large framed out rectangle in the framing that I think I will convert into a generous storage box which could be accessed through the floor. But again, that can wait until a later time.
I removed the upper awning and worked out the bugs on the 270 unit.
Here it is opening:
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At this point I realized I needed some reinforcing of the hinge point at the rear, so I quickly fashioned up a couple of braces.
Not pretty at this point, and really just quick production work. I'll get to pretty and powder coat later on, but for now, I need functional
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That allowed for the full opening:
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That immediately brought out a big problem: There is no roof over the cabin door. That means rain could blow straight in, getting in/out would be directly into the precipitation, and there could be a nice mud puddle directly below the last spot you had to step prior to entering the bedroom area...NOT GOOD
Have to come up with something to fix this!
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^^^^ If you blink after each picture, you get a slow-mo hand wave... ;-))
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Now, the area beneath the awning is nice and very workable. Plan is to walk around the back under cover and into the shower/potty tent when fully set up. So far this is the scene:
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Next: Under awning lighting:
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Don't open the door when it rains.
I'm sea sick,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Threw the shocks on and zip tied the electric brake cable and the air lines up out of harms way
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I’m really curious about that porch light you have there.
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So this part will constitute an experiment.
I need some sort of cover over the entrance door
I looked all over the RV stuff, and frankly I was pretty underwhelmed over the offerings I saw out there
So I started to think about what one might look like if I just created it myself.
I know the thing would have to be compact, and pretty robust. It would have to be simple and easy to deploy, and once out there in the breeze be pretty fuss-free.
I started out with some sticks of PVC Conduit, just cutting pieces and sticking things on the side to see what a fitment might look like and to see if there were any issues. I noticed right away, that if I simply built a single leg on each side that hinged on the bottom and rolled out from the top, I could get something done, but it would require a bit of a squat to get in/out of the camper, and the forward bar would get in the way of opening the frig.
So I had to come up with some compound folding thing, and I started to think about landing gear linkages I have seen over time.
I started with a long and short length of the PVC and bolted one end of each stick together
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I’m really curious about that porch light you have there.
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Its a 36 foot length of LED strip lights
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The box of timbers represents the vertical wall of the camper.
The series shows approximately how the compound linkage would unfold to place the longer pole up higher
This is all very early at this point, but I do think I may be onto something.
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That will attach at the forward edge of the cabin and just behind the door
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Thinking I want to really build something along these lines, I created those same lengths of tubing from some galvanized electrical conduit. I fish-mouthed the ends of the tubes, then welded some 1/2" I.D. bushings to the ends of the tubes which will in turn use some 1/2" hardware to keep everything aligned under load.
The tubes were drying when I stopped building for the day
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They will attach to the body by way of simple aluminum "L" brackets.
Not sure what may be going on with the other end, but I'll need to create a spool about 36" long where I can roll up what looks like four feet of that rip stop vinyl material I am already using for the expandable top. I just need to figure out how to put a spring in the bobbin end to make the thing naturally want to recoil. Then I'll have to figure out some sort of over-center stop to keep everything at the correct angle to put the overhead where it is tilted down a little bit outward to shed water away from the entrance, but still retain some head room.
Hmmm...Thinking...
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Don, check out how the company that built your other RV trailer handled opening the door when it is raining. Almost all awning literature says to roll up awning in wind or rainy weather. Get a beach towel to wipe up a little water that enters the trailer and don’t leave the door open in a storm
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Don, check out how the company that built your other RV trailer handled opening the door when it is raining. Almost all awning literature says to roll up awning in wind or rainy weather. Get a beach towel to wipe up a little water that enters the trailer and don’t leave the door open in a storm
Bob, I'm not looking for something cheap like those RV things, but with these short steel arms and that super tough mil-spec vinyl, it should easily stand up to some moderate gusts.
I had a tent made of that stuff and aluminum tubing that stood up to 70mph gusts in the California high desert. Not a big awning, I am only talking 4'X4'at the largest.
Copy on the towel, good idea. But I was trying to keep the ground just outside the door somewhat rain free(er) if possible.
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My first thought would be a small fiberglass rod that would make a triangle and stitch some more of that green fabric into that rain fly on top of a tent type shape and roll it back up when not used, snap to body of trailer or maybe some simple twist ties. But you’re one past that now
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See the simple tri angle on the front?
One rod straight out over the door that fits your required dimensions and it could match what your have on the upper portion?
Zipper pocket to roll it into, maybe some more Velcro, a few snaps possibly. But easy sewing machine work and you probably have some scrap material.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210524/efcb8a9b1f21dd787bdf74dc0bed739f.jpg)
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Or carry along a small entrance step with shoe brush attached. Short legs to keep you out of the lake at the entrance to the camper. Or, don’t park with the door opening over a low spot that collects water.
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Or carry along a small entrance step with shoe brush attached. Short legs to keep you out of the lake at the entrance to the camper. Or, don’t park with the door opening over a low spot that collects water.
I plan to carry a stool, or weld on some foldable steps.
And Dave hit on something I hadn't considered...A tent rain fly sort of thing on flexible rods...Have to give that some thought.