VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS > General Vehicle Related Discussion

Cummins in my Suburban?

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Flyin6:
So, let's have a discussion and some fun here

I probably won't, but I just may swap a early 6BT 12 valve into the Suburban

* Here's why: It only gets 10mpg on a good day

* I can sell the 6.0L with the LS6 heads and cam, and the supercharger, and the injectors, and the headers, and the exhaust, and the torque converter, and the fancy dual fuel pump setup, and maybe even the transmission

* Duane and I have struck up a deal for me to purchase a 1993 W250 chassis with a good 6BT (Rotary pump) with a Getrag 5-speed and the iron 205 transfer case. He is keeping the Dana 60 front and I will trash the Dana 70 rear axle.

* I have wanted to make my own fuel forever, WVO from the local truck stop to make an endless supply of free fuel, well, like .30 a gal when you amortize the centrifuge price.

* I want a non-electronic "survival" vehicle just in case.

Concept of the operation:

Starting with my 2002 Surburban which is in super excellent condition, I would rebuild the 12 valve and do a mild performance mod. I think I'd just keep the rotary pump since it's easier to start, simpler, bulletproof, and inexpensive. Give it good injectors, a better turbo, and a lift pump, and call it a day. Looking for 350-400HP/900-1200 ft/lbs. ish.

Not sure if I wouldn't just drop in the 5-speed with a clutch or not. The flip side is to just use the 4L80E. It can take a mildly warmed-up Cummins with a low-stall converter. I'd run it with a stand-alone controller. (But that wouldn't be EMP-proof)

I am going to just dump the whole ECM/TCM thing and only use the BCM to run the heater and do other interior things. I would fashion a custom analog dash cut by folks who build Aircraft panels and use a matching set of VDO or similar gages.

I'll just use the factory fuel system, albeit with a lift pump, and call that done. A stock Dodge W250 MBRP exhaust should fit, and after deciding what trans/transfer to use, have the driveshafts shortened or lengthened as required.

I wouldn't call any part of this proposed swap super difficult except for sorting out the wiring harness to keep the BCM things that I still need to work. Dash lights would be a thing of the past and I'd have to just can the anti-lock brakes since I doubt I could sort that.

With that, let the discussion begin

cj7ox:
I think it's a great plan. Just remember what happened last time you tried an "oil change" on a 6BT. Keep it simple.  :wink:

Flyin6:

--- Quote from: cj7ox on October 13, 2022, 04:01:57 PM ---I think it's a great plan. Just remember what happened last time you tried an "oil change" on a 6BT. Keep it simple.  :wink:

--- End quote ---
...Still relatively fresh in my memory

wyorunner:
We’re talking about writing a check, right? If you don’t use the getrag, please put my name on it.

Flyin6:

--- Quote from: wyorunner on October 14, 2022, 02:17:52 AM ---We’re talking about writing a check, right? If you don’t use the getrag, please put my name on it.

--- End quote ---
No, I'll do it myself
I may well use the Getrag. Has a .77 OD which is not good...But all I'll need to do is to rebuild it, then buy a decent clutch and hang some pedals. If I use the 4L80E, then I'll have to buy the box, sort that crap all out, and buy another torque converter. If I do an Allison, I'd have to purchase the converter...Purchase the adapter...find then rebuild an Allison, then find some stand-alone control unit that would be subject to EMP. Seems likely I will just freshen up the whole stock 1993 engine/trans/transfer case and drop it all in.

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