Author Topic: 2002 Suburban 2500 build thread, Part 3 (Read 70806 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #150 on:** April 03, 2019, 06:59:00 PM »

And using a couple angle fixtures, created this sliding mount:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #151 on:** April 03, 2019, 07:01:59 PM »

And mounted a fire-stick antenna to that

Which can be held down, Armee style with a bungee

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #152 on:** April 03, 2019, 07:52:14 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on April 03, 2019, 06:55:18 PM

After Playing with that, I pulled it out, and finish sanded it, then coated it with duplicolor truck bed liner. I did not like how it turned out, much too thin, laid out flat, not textured like I wanted, so tomorrow I'll redo it with something else

I have seen somewhere that Ship Wreck Harbor has a decent rattle can bed liner. Try hat

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #153 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:24:22 PM »

Got a bunch of stuff in from REI

And started figuring out where to stash it

Flyin6 · « **Reply #154 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:25:28 PM »

And added to the storage shelf bin thing collection

Flyin6 · « **Reply #155 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:28:01 PM »

Some of the paint didn't stick well to the wheels, so I removed it all

Then I tried to find a way to just clear coat the polished surface, but nothing was turning out, so I threw the Muriatic acid on them and then cleaned and painted them just like the D-Max wheels

Flyin6 · « **Reply #156 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:29:47 PM »

Back on the rear axle now, this is the little ridge that prevents the brake assembly from sliding onto the 4" axle tubes

Flyin6 · « **Reply #157 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:30:26 PM »

So I pulled the die grinder out and quickly removed it

Flyin6 · « **Reply #158 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:31:45 PM »

And just like that, the stock Suburban brake backing plate and caliper mount (And emergency brake) slid on the mugo axle like it was made to!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #159 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:34:02 PM »

I slid the hub back on and snugged a single nut and started playing with rotors. First thing I discovered is that the 14 bolt semi-floater rotor will not fit overtop of the FF hub

It is maybe 1/2" or perhaps less smaller in diameter than the FF rotor

Flyin6 · « **Reply #160 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:34:46 PM »

Good news is that both rotors are the same large diameter

Flyin6 · « **Reply #161 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:35:59 PM »

Now the FF rotor is a bit deeper on the backside than the SF rotor and that will be necessary as you will see shortly

Flyin6 · « **Reply #162 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:38:47 PM »

Measuring from the hub meeting face inward we can see we will need 3.5" or a tad more for the emergency brake to engage into the rotor housing

So this is problem numba 1

I need to figure out which rotor will both fit the FF hub and have sufficient depth to allow the emergency brake shoes to engage the drum

Flyin6 · « **Reply #163 on:** April 03, 2019, 08:43:36 PM »

I would not be adverse to shimming the brake backing plate outward a little bit to give me full engagement of the parking brake shoes, but that is only an option. I want to find out which parts will make this combo work with more or less stock parts.

Following that will be the wheel stud issue. I will need to locate a 14mm X 1.5 wheel stud with a big knurl to properly engage into the hubs.

I am hoping I am not looking at some one off hybrid of a hub which will make things more difficult and costly. I suppose I could source some stock Silverado 14 bolt FF hubs which would already have the proper studs and go with those...Not sure yet what I need to do

Flyin6 · « **Reply #164 on:** April 03, 2019, 09:03:04 PM »

So did some measuring

Stock stud has a knurl size of .612"

The mugo axle FF hub studs have a knurl size of .685"

So not all that much larger, .073" larger.

Stock stud is 2.80" long counting the head

The bolt body length is 2.555"

So it's off to the parts catalog to see if this part of the puzzle can be solved

rpar86 · « **Reply #165 on:** April 03, 2019, 10:49:44 PM »

Quote from: EL TATE on April 03, 2019, 10:36:53 AM

Quote from: rpar86 on April 01, 2019, 10:42:50 PM
Quote from: Bigdave_185 on April 01, 2019, 11:33:28 AM
https://www.4-wheelclassics.com/vehicles/236/1999-gmc-suburban

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There’s paperwork in there from JiffyLube - wonder if there is any oil in the engine? ;)

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Ouch.

Was wondering when/if you’d see that Tate :)

Saw this story last week.

https://www.kgw.com/mobile/article/news/investigations/oregon-man-wins-9k-court-ruling-over-disputed-jiffy-lube-oil-change/283-3a4e736c-0d67-432c-9ec6-3ba16b8148c8

Sorry Don for the DOT. Carry on.

Don Edit: Fixed it ^^^ Change "Carry on to: CM (Continue mission) ;-)

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KensAuto · « **Reply #166 on:** April 04, 2019, 12:28:32 AM »

I don't think I've ever seen a hub that thick before. Crazy thick from what I can see.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #167 on:** April 04, 2019, 07:53:50 AM »

Quote from: KensAuto on April 04, 2019, 12:28:32 AM

I don't think I've ever seen a hub that thick before. Crazy thick from what I can see.

I've done some homework since buying this thing. It is rated as a 15,000 lb axle!!!!!!!!!

I think I figured out what to do. There are no such studs in the world that have a 14mm thread and a knurl that big, so the hubs would be a weld and machine at best.

I think it would be wisest to just pick up hubs and parts from a 2500 Silverado with a 14 bolt and install that. Keep it all GM architecture.

I just located a set of hubs, backing plates, rotors and calipers off a 2014 Silverado with a 14 bolt.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #168 on:** April 04, 2019, 07:58:49 AM »

The 2014 changed lug patterns to that 8-180 or something. No longer the 8 -6.5

Wouldn’t you need older?

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KensAuto · « **Reply #169 on:** April 04, 2019, 09:29:16 AM »

Exactly∆∆∆
You need 2010 or older.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #170 on:** April 04, 2019, 12:46:00 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on April 04, 2019, 07:58:49 AM

The 2014 changed lug patterns to that 8-180 or something. No longer the 8 -6.5

Wouldn’t you need older?

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Oh, good catch!

Hadn't realized that change affected the 14 bolt axles as well

Thanks

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #171 on:** April 04, 2019, 01:17:47 PM »

Trust but verify !! Your front axle is the 8x6.5. The back replacement I would think you want to match.

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Bear9350 · « **Reply #172 on:** April 04, 2019, 01:50:47 PM »

That is what he bought wheels for and what I built the spare tire carrier for.

KensAuto · « **Reply #173 on:** April 04, 2019, 02:26:29 PM »

If you really wanted to show off your talent, you could redrill all 16 holes.

cruizng · « **Reply #174 on:** April 04, 2019, 05:07:08 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on April 04, 2019, 02:26:29 PM

If you really wanted to show off your talent, you could redrill all 16 holes.

My money is on Don that he could do it!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #175 on:** April 04, 2019, 05:10:29 PM »

I am still stunned that Ken agreed with me!

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KensAuto · « **Reply #176 on:** April 04, 2019, 09:43:32 PM »

I so want to abuse the moderation powers bestowed upon me by our great leader, but I shall try to act like an adult, for once.
Mike, can you imagine drilling through that 1-2" thick hub, 16 times, with his harbor freight drill? Lol

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #177 on:** April 04, 2019, 09:44:33 PM »

Mag drill?

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rpar86 · « **Reply #178 on:** April 04, 2019, 09:48:02 PM »

I thought you were talking about drilling the holes in the wheels larger for the humongo studs?

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #179 on:** April 04, 2019, 09:51:13 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on April 04, 2019, 05:10:29 PM

I am still stunned that Ken agreed with me!

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Even more stunned that don gave you credit for the catch!

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #180 on:** April 04, 2019, 09:52:26 PM »

Quote from: rpar86 on April 04, 2019, 09:48:02 PM

I thought you were talking about drilling the holes in the wheels larger for the humongo studs?

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That doesn’t actually sound like a terrible idea. Hole should already have the acorn taper in the bottom. Just can’t rotate tires front to back

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cruizng · « **Reply #181 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:02:08 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on April 04, 2019, 09:43:32 PM

I so want to abuse the moderation powers bestowed upon me by our great leader, but I shall try to act like an adult, for once.
Mike, can you imagine drilling through that 1-2" thick hub, 16 times, with his harbor freight drill? Lol

If he wasn’t leaving until June he could do it. Pull some all nighters.

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stlaser · « **Reply #182 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:24:43 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on April 04, 2019, 09:43:32 PM

I so want to abuse the moderation powers bestowed upon me by our great leader, but I shall try to act like an adult, for once.
Mike, can you imagine drilling through that 1-2" thick hub, 16 times, with his harbor freight drill? Lol

I’m still waiting for the motorcycle wheelie video to surface just sayin...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #183 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:39:28 PM »

I see you boys have been busy again!

Naw, I need to do this right. I think right means get some mo-normaller stock hubs and put the brakes back stockish.

The only way to properly prepare that mugo hub would be to (in my opinion) weld the stud holes up, then get a shop to mill half to two thirds the thickness away, then redrill.

If a man was going to do all that, he may just as well just buy the correct hub and be done with it.

So, yes, Dabe saved Don from spending $150, I was about to have the owner ship those 2017 hubs to me. Not only would I have lost the money, but the time as well.

I checked another source today and that ended up as a dry hole, so I'm still searching at this point.

But work progresses. I got the diodes in for the AMP steps and started wiring them in

Flyin6 · « **Reply #184 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:45:29 PM »

But then I hit a snag. The instructions point to me fishing a single tan wire out of a bundle, then cutting and splicing in the diode. Problem is, there are three tan wires in the bundle.

So I called Amp technical support. The guy who took the call was of no help. Further he had no explanation as to why my harness had three tan wires. He told me, I'd have to buy an electrical tester, and see which wire went to ground when opening and closing the door. I asked him to pull the diagrams and maybe give me a pin number, but he wouldn't do it. I had the distinct feeling he just wanted me to go away.

I'll probably get the chance to rate this purchase and bet your bottom, I'm gonna tell the story.

So had to switch gears. I sprayed another coat of bed liner, the HF stuff on the shelves, and although not perfect, they turned out "Functional grade." That would not be acceptable to Tex, but for me, its ah-eite

Flyin6 · « **Reply #185 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:47:07 PM »

I decided not to install a backing as that would decrease the depth of the cavity. I will do a limo tint, and find some netting for the front, but it's OK for now

Flyin6 · « **Reply #186 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:48:28 PM »

Then a freight truck showed up and dropped off my tent.

I did not like reading about who assembled it

Flyin6 · « **Reply #187 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:50:20 PM »

^^^^Fingers look like crap

Tough winter, old skin, bad habit chewing the dead stuff off...

A couple more chairs came in today. I chose them for comfort, packability and strength. This one is plenty strong

Flyin6 · « **Reply #188 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:51:53 PM »

I started fitting out the tool box, and right away ran out of space. I'll have to switch to the next deeper L-Box to hole all this and the next pile of stuff

Flyin6 · « **Reply #189 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:53:59 PM »

Next I tossed a couple flood lights onto the rack, positioned to illuminae the sides of the road/trail.

Nothing will be wired in at this point, just fitting and placing things. I'll do a marathon wiring thing after the automotive modifications are complete

Flyin6 · « **Reply #190 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:55:11 PM »

In the center, I'll put a couple of old HID's that I once used on C-Max for a couple years. I freshened them up some

Flyin6 · « **Reply #191 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:56:52 PM »

I placed some no-slip strips onto the running boards on both sides. I jumped around and climbed on them, and sure enough, they work!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #192 on:** April 04, 2019, 10:58:34 PM »

And now, its basically axle time. I started by pulling it apart again, then spent some quality time with my grinder and wire cup tool

Flyin6 · « **Reply #193 on:** April 04, 2019, 11:00:01 PM »

^^^ That transformation right there took some time to get it to that point. Following that, I gave it a solvent bath. Next step will be the removal of the shock mounts

Flyin6 · « **Reply #194 on:** April 06, 2019, 09:36:40 AM »

Got more axle work done, but first a couple fun things

First, remember those mirrors Dave pointed me to?

Well, let's put them on!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #195 on:** April 06, 2019, 09:38:32 AM »

It is a really easy and quick job to R&R the factory mirrors. Stockers easily removed...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #196 on:** April 06, 2019, 09:39:08 AM »

5 minutes max to get the old stuff off. a bit longer to reassemble, just because you are dropping stuff and being really careful

But a quick reverse of the procedure and you're ready for the next challenge

Flyin6 · « **Reply #197 on:** April 06, 2019, 09:39:49 AM »

Next up, I mounted the two HID lamps on the rack. So that setup up there will have the two long range driving lights and two 120 degree floods mounted at an angle to illuminate to the sides as well

Flyin6 · « **Reply #198 on:** April 06, 2019, 09:40:39 AM »

That whole operation up there is coming around quite nicely. Some finish work and tweaking as always but I am most of the way there.

The bulk of the day was spent on the mutant axle. It got a lot more sanding and had the long stock like shock mounts removed

Flyin6 · « **Reply #199 on:** April 06, 2019, 09:41:31 AM »

I'll be reusing those shock mounts after some cleanup and shortening. Grinding and smoothing happened with a 7" 1 HP grinder with an abrasive wheel followed up with a 4.5" flap wheel with 36 grit.

You can also see that a great deal more smoothing and sanding has taken place