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Nice thing about those is if you get a large enough door you really don’t need to split much wood
So, Bobby...being the calculating trained warrior NCO that you are. Take the appropriate action, Execute!
your standard grunt level CQB is just putting rounds and rounds on scary stuff till it stops scaring you!
Alot of the farms and houses out in the country have those. They aren't too popular with people who have neighbors nearby as the smoke blows into their place. However, if I ever build a house I'm getting one of those. Digging trenches aren't hard.
Who are you hiring to dig the trenches? You wouldn't even think of doing that yourself given your track record with equipment would you.... Good way to get rid of the scraps at the farm. Will the cedar slab wood work ok or burn too fast?Taking turns filling up the stove or you just get to do it since you changed the heat source.
Definitely interested in this, what with only being about 20 miles away from your house and being all electric as well. Have plenty of Woods around the house to keep it stoked too. I am starting to look into alternatives to the heat pumps, so this is very timely. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice project! Echo what Bobby said that up here in MN there are many of those and they work great even in 20 below weather. Lots of shops with in floor heat run those also. Plus added bonus you can position it so that your favorite liberal neighbor is downwind and can enjoy the aroma.
Cedar might burn to hot and fast to be efficient. Another important factor in determining the correct wood selection will be which species will leave the most ash behind for you to clean up. I am guessing you will not want to burn cedar slabs without stripping the bark off for this reason but the larger burners are more efficient so maybe it won't be an issue. My uncle has one that appears to be of similar size. His also takes about 3 foot pieces. Anything that is too small to go for lumber is small enough to go in the burner. I think he is able to fill it up once and it will last all day except for on the coldest of winter days when the high never gets above 0 F. He has converted old wagon running gear to stack wood on so he can pull the wagon right up in front of the burner to fire-up from.
do you have a backhoe on one of those green machines? how are you digging the lines to the house?
Quote from: Nate on September 18, 2018, 02:59:02 PMdo you have a backhoe on one of those green machines? how are you digging the lines to the house?Not going to bury them I thinkBoiler only has to be five feet from the house, so what 7-8 feet of insulated line? I should be fineI have read quite a bit on this already, and many others left the lines exposed for a year or more and the unit worked just fine. Heat loss is almost non existent.
Quote from: Flyin6 on September 18, 2018, 03:05:05 PMQuote from: Nate on September 18, 2018, 02:59:02 PMdo you have a backhoe on one of those green machines? how are you digging the lines to the house?Not going to bury them I thinkBoiler only has to be five feet from the house, so what 7-8 feet of insulated line? I should be fineI have read quite a bit on this already, and many others left the lines exposed for a year or more and the unit worked just fine. Heat loss is almost non existent.7 to 8 foot and you aren’t going to bury the lines? Really? Rent a trencher for two hours from HD if your knee is too jacked up to trench that far or the boys are too busy with football....
Did you ever look into a wood gasification unit? little to no ash to clean up & can be 2X more efficient, but can only take seasoned hardwood.
Don, my welder had one of these (a large one like yours) and he started with two separate runs. Granted he was heating a 40 x 60 insulated shop too however in the end as you don’t want your garage, shop or work space overly warm what he did was ran it to the house heat exchanger first then in return to wood burner he ran the water through the exchanger to the shop. It kept the shop comfortable. This way worked best for his situation, something to consider maybe.
Quote from: stlaser on September 19, 2018, 05:07:58 PMDon, my welder had one of these (a large one like yours) and he started with two separate runs. Granted he was heating a 40 x 60 insulated shop too however in the end as you don’t want your garage, shop or work space overly warm what he did was ran it to the house heat exchanger first then in return to wood burner he ran the water through the exchanger to the shop. It kept the shop comfortable. This way worked best for his situation, something to consider maybe. That is exactly how I plan to route the linesCircuit 1 goes from boiler to the 20 X 20 HE to the 20 plate hot water heater then to the garage heater. Tim tells me the 180 degree water will be down to around 130 when it reaches the garage air handler, plenty enough to keep that room toasty.Circuit 2 will go to the smaller air handler 18 X 20 first, then on to the 100,000 BTU big garage (30 X 36 X 12) heater.Luckily for me, there is a lot of experience out there that is readily available that I am reading.
Interesting idea, In Utah you can only burn at certain times in fireplaces, I don’t know how this type of system would work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don, is the unit set up for burning coal? Kind of dirty to store but wouldn't it hold fire longer if you were going to be away for a day or so?
OK plumbers render an opinion for meGetting ready to start installing the various pieces of the wood boiler inside the house part of the system.I will be using 1" PEX to transfer the hot water. PEX is rated to 200F and the water it will transport will start its journey at 180F then as heat is siphoned off will end somewhere around 110-120F I would imagine.From everything I have read the regular PEX is fine for this application. The only warnings I see is to stay away from Chinese manufacture. Ploy PEX draws its strength from a cross linking of the poly molecules. This cross linking process occurs over a 12 hour process where the plastic is kept at (I think) 120F. From what I have read the Chinese will oftentimes just extrude the poly and package the tube up and ship it off for installation into Dave's new house.So, I'll pick up some high quality (Expensive) US made PEX and begin with a 200 or 300 foot roll of that.Specifically, I am seeking advice on the attachment method of the line to the fittings. I can buy fittings that the tube is pressed onto and grabs all by itself through barbed flanges. I can also use the standard PEX fittings and use a hose clamp, a specially designed PEX stainless clamp that one uses special pliers to install, or I could use the crush rings I have so often used in the past for the 1/2" and 3/4" applications.Finally there are shark-bite fittings that one simply inserts the PEX line into a fitting containing an O-ring and teeth which simply capture the line and seal it with the rubber gasket.My inclination is to use the stainless rings which are squeezed to proper tightness with the special pliers, but no decisions have been made. THe installation begins tomorrow!