REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Bikes Motorcycles, S x S's, Tractors, and Mowers => Topic started by: Flyin6 on May 12, 2022, 09:07:12 PM
-
In lieu of doing a bike build on my adventure thread which I am saving for trip pics, I'll just build the Kawasaki here.
I thought I'd keep this one sane and simple and inexpensive. After all the KLR is an adventure bike costing 1/2 to 1/3 the price of its competition that it really does not have.
So job1 will be to just buy less or the least expensive parts. I have found that you can pay double, triple or more if you are going for the snooty very best of the very best. Come down a paltry 10%-20% in capability, or quality and you are looking at half to a third the price. So you get a lot of bang for the buck for a much lower price point.
Next, keep it sane and focused. For this summer/fall, the pre-ranger will essentially be learning. So we aren't going to do anything crazy. We have to get good on the street, get good at low speed riding, and somewhat proficient on easy trails, two and single tracks.
So, it already has everything needed to be a good commuter and street rider, so it really needs very little there. I was thinking a throttle friction device to serve as a poor man's cruise control so I can get my hands off that buzzing bar every once in awhile. Oh, and I'll need a GPS/Phone holder so I'll score one of those.
For trail riding, I already think the stock rubber foot pegs are a non starter and with my height, standing and riding in the attack position forces me to lean slight forward placing more weight over the forks. That's not good, so I'll have to raise my handlebars. Next up it needs just a touch of armor. I am thinking a good bash plate and maybe just ride that for awhile before deciding to buy crash bars.
It already has panniers although they are small at 21 liters. They never the less fit the bike so I'll see how to develop that. I'll need some tools and things like a spare tube or two, an inflator, some irons, a hillbilly center-stand, some duct tape, spare nuts and bolts, and locktite.
I always like a bit of an exhaust note so I think I'll lead off this build with a cool exhaust.
-
Just for fun, I went on Amazon and searched KLR650 thumper exhausts.
They had a bunch
So my search criteria was to find the least expensive one I could find.
Where these things normally run close to more than $500, for a paltry $219 I scored this Delkevic American made stainless can
-
Exhausts are always fun on bikes so after it I went. First documenting what the gaudy stocker looked like, I proceeded to remove it starting with the Pannier and the side plastic. That came off in maybe five minutes. Three screws and the turn of a key and those parts were on the floor!
-
That stock exhaust was big and heavy (guessing 15-20 pounds) and even had a heat shield
Taking this apart, I started to really appreciate Kawasaki's build quality
-
Look at this boat anchor...Huge. The bottom half is a catalytic brick, thus the need for all the heat shrouding.
-
The new exhaust was on in just minutes, including applying some supplied high temp RTV
-
That won't get anywhere near as hot as the stock piece did. No cats, lyticing in there. Notice the muffler has a silicone gasket on the clamp? Really how hot can it get. Anyway the factory plastic has a layer of heat shielding
-
That took three screws, allen head, thank you berry much, and it was back on...
-
I tossed the pannier back on. That takes 10 seconds max and it was tool clean up time
I punch of the starter button and right off I was reminded why these big singles are called thumpers. What a powerful exhaust note. No hiding from anything from here on out...
-
The exhaust wasn't the first thing I did. I raised the windshield 2", and cut off two gaudy reflectors, and of course added my obligatory decals so everyone will think I am somebody...or not.
I'll bet no one gets the one beside the 101st patch. No sir, that's a rare one right there...
-
Is there any further restriction on the exhaust header?
Air filter upgrades?
I assume it’s EfI. Can you get a programmer for MO POWER!?
How does it handle the weight of you and wife?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I would assume that the stock EFI feedback loops would have some ability to adjust AFR within a certain range, so freeing up exhaust and intake (K&N) should increase power to a certain amount.
https://procycle.us/model/kawasaki/klr650/controls
Might look at a vibration isolation bar riser set up to help with the buzzing
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Now that’s a good idea! I put some bars in my off-road bike that did the similar idea and it made an enjoyable improvement
I have not put a pair on my current bike but the Seemed to work as designed
https://dirtbiketest.com/product-tests/brp-4-post-rubber-mounted-triple-clamp/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Is there any further restriction on the exhaust header? No, Mandrel bent header pipe all the way back. No restrictions I can see
Air filter upgrades? None at this time
I assume it’s EfI. Can you get a programmer for MO POWER!? Yes you can. Spendy, like $500 and this bike doesn't make much power, so not sure it would benefit...Adding a little to not to much already and all that. Besides, part of its character is this lumbering great old ADV bike from the 80's. I don't think it needs to be powerful.
How does it handle the weight of you and wife? Never had anyone but me on it. KLR's are known to be soft sprung. Gen 1's way too soft. Gen 2's got a little stiffer spring. I hear this new Gen 3 got a bit more spring and some stiffer valving. No plans to ever ride two up except to take grandkids down the field they live next to.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
-
I would assume that the stock EFI feedback loops would have some ability to adjust AFR within a certain range, so freeing up exhaust and intake (K&N) should increase power to a certain amount.
https://procycle.us/model/kawasaki/klr650/controls
Might look at a vibration isolation bar riser set up to help with the buzzing
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
It's not bad at all. Only starts to annoy after 30 min or so. I already ordered 2" Roc Risers and a cruise control friction thingy
-
Today in between mulching flower beds, pulling weeds and cutting grass, I took maybe 30 minutes to install one of Enduro Engineering aluminum bash plates
It is one well built piece. They didn't have one in black, so I just picked up this straight-up aluminum piece
-
4 8mm head screws later and the factory plastic piece was off. Looking at it after removing it, I have to say, it is pretty robust. That plastic is something roughly akin to what Glocks are made of. I'd say it could take a decent hit. but not a sharp rock, and the KLR oil drain plug has a thick head which pokes its head downward a bit too much. I never liked seeing that down there just waiting to get hammered into the case cracking it and leaking all the oil out.
-
The skid plate did not mount into the same holes as the factory one did according to the directions. The Adventure models have an engine crash bar which bolts into the frame further aft. That Enduro Engineering piece actually had holes for the crash bar mount, so I just found some longer bolts and used that mount.
The oil drain plug is now recessed and safe.
Nice little 30 min job
-
I know you will love this but if you pull that metal plate back off and add some of that aluminum foil backed sound deading stuff to it. You will block a large amount of motor noise. I have added these skids to every bike I have rode and they work great with the exception of the sound reflection from them.
Well worth it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I know you will love this but if you pull that metal place back off and add some of that aluminum foil backed sound deading stuff to it. You will block a large amount of motor noise. I have added these skids to every bike I have rode and they work great with the exception of the sound reflection from them.
Well worth it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very well then. I'll go buy some and the next time the plate comes off, I'll make it so...Thanks
-
Fluid change has begun!!
-
Did a bunch more...took pics, downloaded them onto this new MacBook...Now I can't find them
I don't like Apple laptops yet!
-
Wife has had hers for a couple years and still dislikes it…..
I have a 7 yr old windows Lenovo, no issues yet
-
Wife has had hers for a couple years and still dislikes it…..
I have a 7 yr old windows Lenovo, no issues yet
My 10 year old windows 7 ASUS has a hard failure. Displays a message saying something has failed and the computer can no longer communicate with itself or something like that
-
They can pull the stuff from it.
I like windows
-
Wife has had hers for a couple years and still dislikes it…..
I have a 7 yr old windows Lenovo, no issues yet
My 10 year old windows 7 ASUS has a hard failure. Displays a message saying something has failed and the computer can no longer communicate with itself or something like that
You should be able to pull the hard drive and use an external reader hooker upper thing. Based on your description I think it sounds like a bus failure so your drive is maybe ok to read still.
-
I don't like Apple laptops yet!
Neither does Hunter Biden
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I don't like Apple laptops yet!
Neither does Hunter Biden
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
His was a Mac?
Figures...
-
Did I mention I don't like MacBook or Apple computers/phones/politics/anything.
Fell for it. Listened to my friends, "Apple is so easy, you just sit down, it reads your mind and does all your work
Poppy Cock!
To resize an image in windows. You click on it, right click it, select your size, then enter, and it's done.
This POC, you open some program up. Then you open photos up. You'll probably have to enter a password or something because this POC detects someone, probably an unauthorized user (never) then you have to highlight and drag the photos to this other program and drop them. Then select some custom size. Don't know about you, but I don't have the time to memorize what size equates to what quality.
Then you resize to some custom size, then export that file. I had to create a new folder and that of course is NOT in the photos folder, I mean, why should it be? Photos ought to be in a document or Excel file or maybe some other never seen before application. So you have the pics resized and you've developed an age spot.
No telling if you can ever find that file, but there is a large partitioned section of the hard disc named "The Twilight Zone." Lots of stuff goes there and that's where the 76 passwords needed to do anything are stored.
So you glance down and there it is, a second age spot and you notice several days have passed and your wife left you because you haven't spoken to her and ll she hears from you are curse words.
At this point who gives a flip about and gosh darn pictures anyway? I just want to kill some software engineer, R e a l. S l o w.
I don't even know what I'm doing here. I was trying to do something a couple days ago, but with the wife living me and the six new age spots, I just want back in Afghanistan with a minion. Heck, skip that, I'll only need a sharp stick and some time. But time is something I no longer have any of thanks to this F#_)$!! Apple POChit!
-
I'm not better but I wanted to load some of the lost pics to show what I'm doing to the bike.
I replaced the factory pegs with some cheap enduro pegs which were lighter, bigger, easy to install, and cheap
-
One thing I will say is that somehow the apple iPhone automatically downloads the photos I take onto the Mac block confuser and time waster and absolute joke of a computer.
So, next I pulled the factory hand guards which had zero protection and were really just wind guards, and installed some real-deal bark buster guards
-
Finally, I screwed on a phone holder and added a power chord. This holder is substantial. It's like working out stretching those padded fingers wide enough to fit the phone. I half expect them to crush the phone to dust during some ride...We'll see
-
If its an Apple phone, whats the harm?
I need mounts for my tractors. Digging it from my pocket is a joke and I normally have gloves on.
-
I got this one for the mini dozer JR. This one has a strong magnet. Not cheap but worth it imo. I have a spring style in the excavator but it gets dirt in it and makes it not open/close.
Mob Armor Mount Switch - Magnetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BINV9P2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
-
Looks good except that phone mount looks sad in my book
I’m more of a positive retention kinda guy.
This here isn’t going to toss your expensive phone into the bushes at the first good jar of a tree branch+barkbuster contact.
Quad Lock Motorcycle Handlebar Mount for iPhone and Samsung Galaxy Phones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08741BFFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CBXQZVYMQS15RQ1EHDZ9
Just sayin.
I actually don’t mount my phone on my trail bike, it’s in a padded zipper pocket hidden behind my bars because I have seen phones on bar mounts get smashed in wrecks. No call for help ( if ya had service anyway) when the phone is destroyed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I have a case on mine so something like that won't work Dave. Magnet is cool, but $60 for a holder isn't.
Sure there is something, just haven't looked real hard yet.
I like the pegs Don, shoes slide off wet rubber!
-
I have a case on mine so something like that won't work Dave. Magnet is cool, but $60 for a holder isn't.
Sure there is something, just haven't looked real hard yet.
I like the pegs Don, shoes slide off wet rubber!
That’s why you get the matching case jr. A magnet is just as Likely to fall off with a solid bump.
If I can loose a orange flag on a 75lb rated magnet I wouldn’t put my phone on it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Looks good except that phone mount looks sad in my book
I’m more of a positive retention kinda guy.
This here isn’t going to toss your expensive phone into the bushes at the first good jar of a tree branch+barkbuster contact.
Quad Lock Motorcycle Handlebar Mount for iPhone and Samsung Galaxy Phones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08741BFFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CBXQZVYMQS15RQ1EHDZ9
Just sayin.
I actually don’t mount my phone on my trail bike, it’s in a padded zipper pocket hidden behind my bars because I have seen phones on bar mounts get smashed in wrecks. No call for help ( if ya had service anyway) when the phone is destroyed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I like that!
I think I'll switch to this thing and put the other mount in the Kubota SVL-97
OK, so where is the case?
Edit: Its ordered
-
Looking good chief.
Now on the MacBook thing.
My wife fell for it too, our boy was the big pusher of his “easy” it all was.
He now has said MacBook.
-
Looking good chief.
Now on the MacBook thing.
My wife fell for it too, our boy was the big pusher of his “easy” it all was.
He now has said MacBook.
I hate the thing so far.
But
Staying with it.
I feel similarly about our president, but for the next almost three years, I'm stuck with him too
Its like that
So anyway, I raised the handlebars with the 2" ROC Risers
-
Its a simple enough install. Loosen four handlebar clamp bolts, then install the ROC risers, then reinstall the handlebars into the saddle of the risers, then reposition the bars
-
Installed:
-
Everything clears
Before/after:
-
Next up, I installed some front fork stabilizers
-
You pop out the dust boots, then install the fork braces into the recessed spot, then slip the boots back on. Really nice modification
-
Handlebars finished off with a TUSK bump pad
-
Finally, I zip-tied the brake line to the swing arm
-
Not to be “that guy” again but
Notice your handle bars have some knurling on them. That is so the clamps have something to bite into. The bar riser you installed are a smooth shaft on smooth clamp aluminum on aluminum. It won’t take much for them to slip. You can remedy this by adding some metal mesh screen window material. Has to be metal but will provide loads more friction
The ideal solution would be to simply order some high rise bars that will accomplish the same thing. You can get bars with more sweep or less sweep taller or shorter. I prefer ProTaper bars on all my stuff
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
The handlebars have two circles of knurling that is clamped by the risers. A little protruded because of how the risers fit. It's good, and I know about that...been riding more than 50 years, but thanks anyway
-
Glad you fixed the rear brake line. I remembered from the first pictures and it hanging low caught my eye, just kept mum though.
-
Not trying to get into a pissin match about years riding
But this is what’s wrong
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220519/ab1cc69ce053175d8589ebb05215de8c.jpg)
There is zero abrasion on this part that mates with your stock clamp surface. It will slip at some point. You have now added more leverage on the part by raising the bars taller which will add to the slipping.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Well, we will see.
It is a popular mod for the KLR community
So if it's happening, no one is writing about it that Have seen so far.
But like you pointed out, I can always add a piece of screen as you so or #220 grit sandpaper..Old school stuff I used to do.
-
So far those ROX bar risers are holding fast, no movement yet. I did some hefting on those bars while trail riding on the farm. Tried to fall over a few times but managed to dab just enough to stay upright
I'll need crash bars, but almost none available at the moment for this new Gen 3 bike
Anyway, today i added a throttle friction lock, a poor man's cruise control from Atlas
-
It went on PDQ, but I had to trim a wee little bit of rubber from the grip to get everything to fit with the factory handlebar end weights
-
You push on the lower button and the throttle locks. Get done, then push the opposite button and it releases.
The throttle isn't actually locked and can be rotated easily with or without the lock being applied. Pretty cool!
-
Oh and Dave, I upgraded the phone mount to that quad lock thing you recommended
I like it. Phone stayed on there during the pounding
-
Did you just drop the "dab" bomb?
-
Dave Atta boy?
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
-
Dave Atta boy?
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
I know, I know...
-
Did you just drop the "dab" bomb?
Not Cannabis!
dab
To touch one's foot to the ground while bicycling. Considered to be a lost style point among trail riders, mountain bikers, bike polo players, among others. Since a lot of technical tricks can be avoided by simply walking the bike over a log or a stream, refraining from dabbing a foot encourages pure cycling and the attempt to negotiate obstacles by technical feats such as hopping or holding a track stand. Sometimes called a "foot down."
-
Took a 1.5-hour long test drive of mostly country roads, all paved. The Atlas throttle lock works great. It allowed me to give my hand a rest several times during the ride. Speaking of the ride, I bugged an Army buddy to ride along on his bike. He is quite renowned, currently a Captain at a major airline he was a part of the BlackHawk down thing and a Night Stalker Flight Lead. If anyone saw the history channel show about the event, he was the narrator.
No, not name dropping or anything like that, just giving him a "sort-of" honorable mention (Since I did not mention his name)
-
Ah, screw it:
https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=869138
Just one of the best friends I have ever had.
Short story: When my middle son was being born, I was a part of all that. Afterward, with Kat sedated I wandered off to the waiting room. In it was her sister, my pastor, and Gerry Izzo, my friend and a couple other folks. I called my dad to tell him the good news. He, a WW2 B-17G pilot himself, asked, "Who's there with you?" I told him everyone, ending with Gerry. And that's when he said the words which made me realize just how good a friend Ger has always been.
After hearing me name the names, dad cut me off, "Did you say Gerry, did you mean Gerry Izzo?" "Yes, dad, Izzo." "Dad said, "Seems to me he has always been there."
And those words sank into my core. I realized he had been at my wedding, my first day ever flying as a commercial airline pilot. Birthdays, deaths, celebrations Holidays and everything else. I'll bet he is the one picked to speak at my funeral. He just shows up sometimes and when we were junior Army pilots a Russian helicopter crossed into Germany and I was nearby on a mission in a Huey along with Gerry. I heard the calls and immediately turned to intercept the Russian. Gerry tells the story much better than I, but it was quite the excitement for two guys still peeing flight school water flying in Germany trying to think we were somebody.
The man is a no-crap American Hero, I admire him greatly.
-
So installed a new bit, a pair of 3-D Cycle windshield risers. They take the stock windscreen and move it 5" forward and tilt it aggressively forward. The net effect is a large reduction of bugs passing into one's mouth, ears, nose and everywhere else around your face.
-
Couple cool concept pics for kitting out the bike
-
Thats a lot of stuff on a bike. I like to move a little.
-
I like the stuff on it. You can lean onto the tank bag and rest your back. Just don’t doze off…
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Cogent makes a "Moab" shock for the bike. I need to swap out the spring anyway because of my size, so I was considering...
The shock can be "Pumped up" with a supplied handle thing while on the bike to carry an extra 100 lbs of cargo. Then when you get to camp, you bleed off the pressure and ride it lightly weighted
-
I like the stuff on it. You can lean onto the tank bag and rest your back. Just don’t doze off…
Guess you've seen me. I fall asleep all the time.
-
I like the stuff on it. You can lean onto the tank bag and rest your back. Just don’t doze off…
Guess you've seen me. I fall asleep all the time.
I was speaking from experience
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Really enjoying this bike. From such humble beginnings...
I like the size and the fit and how it handles.
Dirt performance is not great, but neither are the tires. I ordered some meatier dirt grabbers which will hopefully fix that
Ordered a set of rear suspension riser links which raise the rear a bit but more importantly, stiffen the shock response a bit. The stock shock is a no go and bottoms fairly easily. It will be coming off in favor of a Cogent Moab unit in the future.
The wind now catches just the tippy top of my helmet so that's better.
Looking at Eagle manufacturing, a nice winter project will be a 700 ish cc big bore kit, better cams and a head port and polish for a 20% bump in power. That's later on, we still have the Daniel Boone National Forest to ride this summer and maybe a part of the Kentucky adventure trail.
Oh Yea, let the fun begin
-
I hear the Dunlop has great all terrain tires
-
Ordered Shinko 804/805 big block tires. These are a 50/50 tire. I ran a Shinko rear and a Continental TKC80 front on the Triumph. I swear that Shinko just wouldn't wear. Inexpensive and available. Bike tires have gone the way of toilet paper at the beginning of Covid. Shinko's were in stock, Continentals and some of the other favs of mine were not.
-
Had my first ride in the rain today. Not a long one, just a "cool-down" ride after tossing mulch in the heat today. I'll have to do a piece on my riding clothes. All Adventure bike specific, the rain managed to get in everywhere. So much for waterproof!
Brakes faded big time until I heated them up. Stock tires worked fine, but I reduced speed significantly. Windshield does not keep rain off my face, so there's that.
Still really enjoying this bike!
Oh, ordered crash bars which were out of stock, but just got restocked. I got the first set. I probably already mentioned all this...can't remember everything I forgot! ;-)
-
Getting ready for some bigger changes to the KLR
But before doing those I treated the chain to some fresh lube:
-
Not sure if I ever showed the tool kit and location. I intended to use these, but they were pretty useless. So, I'll have to come up with an alternate tool kit design
-
The stock tires are coming off in favor of more dirt-oriented rubber. The front wheel is a breeze. Loosen two axle pinch clamp bolts, then screw out the axle. No nuts not carter keys to concern yourself with.
-
The rear wheel is a bit more challenging, but still pretty easy
I decided to get the shop to change the tires for me
-
That stock 130/17 was upsized to a 140 to get a bit more meat on the ground
I liked that quad lock phone mount Dave mentioned earlier that I tossed my home-made mount in favor of a purpose-built installation
-
Then I pulled off the 15-tooth factory sprocket and replaced it with a 16-tooth to lower highway cruise RPM. I don't think this is where I'll stay, just a big macro jump. Next, I'll increase RPM a little with a 1-2 tooth change on the main sprocket.
-
Kind of what I'm looking at for the moment
-
Next, I bumped the shock spring preload up to the max for a couple of rides. I discovered the factory spring is intended for use with a 155 lb rider and far outpaced by a 255 lb one (Me).
To remedy this, I ordered a Top-Gun 7.4 spring intended for riders from 250-300 lbs (Including riding clothes and all their kit.
Along with that, I lengthened the shock linkage pieces which will effectively raise the rear a bit, giving me more travel. I believe I had it all "Squashed out" up to this point.
The final fix will be with that Top gun spring and some heavier springs/oil in the front forks. That will be coming right up.
A quick check of the engine oil shows everything to be right in spec
-
Nice mods. Like to see how you like the tires, normally for off road you want some stagger in the lugs.
Factory tool kits are a joke for sure. They can get you by, but.
Maybe a custom built rear shock when you pull the forks?
-
Do you have brake and shift pedal options for these? Hammerhead has always been my go to for them. Just not sure if they have options for the klr
A good break away foot lever is always nice for those rocky tip overs
I have also seen some pretty decent tool storage options made from some black abs pipe and some screw on caps. Held in place with some pipe clamps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Do you have brake and shift pedal options for these? Hammerhead has always been my go to for them. Just not sure if they have options for the klr
A good break away foot lever is always nice for those rocky tip overs
I have also seen some pretty decent tool storage options made from some black abs pipe and some screw on caps. Held in place with some pipe clamps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tool tube: On my list
gear shift lever, Tusk makes one. Kawa already folds in a crash
I'll lower the foot pegs first, then see if I need the longer one. Just picked up some new Adventure boots...have to see how that all fits
-
New tires installed
-
With those shorter shock linkage links, the bike sat a bit taller
The kickstand was suddenly too short, as it was in my view, already too short, so I lengthened it, making it adjustable with a bolt/nut welded inside the tube.
Looks ugly because there are deep rose welds, but it works
Good for now, but I'll pick up an extended stand soon.
-
Tires look good, see the front has some stagger.
Is that your shop boss? Makes mine look clean.
-
Tires look good, see the front has some stagger.
Is that your shop boss? Makes mine look clean.
It's one of them JR.
That's my personal 3-car garage. Have a two-car garage and of course, the 30X50 down at the farm.
-
Working quickly to get this bike where I want it to be.
Since I'm a heavy rider and the bike is set up for a 155 lb rider, it is all wrong in the handling department.
To that end, a couple of days, I gave Rod at "Top-Gun cycles," a call. He manufactures rider's weight-specific springs for the rear shock.
He's a great goy and has been riding these bikes nearly since their creation a century ago. He has more experience on the KLR than almost anyone and was a real joy to chat with. He is thinking of retiring soon, so if you are thinking of picking up one of his springs, I'd move quickly.
After some ciphering, he came up with the #74 spring for me which fits a guy from 270-300 lbs. The guy, includes the man's carcass, his boots/clothing/helmet/and whatever kit he normally carries like a tool kit and spare tube.
-
The stock shock came out without too much fuss. Stock vs the Top gun spring
-
Then on to the spring compressors to compress/remove, then compress/install.
Unfortunately the automotive type spring compressor marred up the poly coating on the spring. Couldn't be helped, but it did the job
-
So no valve adjustment inside the shock, just a new spring??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I set the preload on #2 out of 5. After sitting on it, I think I'll back down off that setting some
-
So the suspension barely droops at all with my buttocks seated on it. So I will back off the preload. Before I would squash the suspension almost all the way. Now the bike stands so tall I am actually on my tip toes a little. The bike feels so much different just sitting on it and bouncing up and down.
-
So no valve adjustment inside the shock, just a new spring??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No. After talking to Rod, he feels the shock is well set up from the factory and says it is as good as most KLR riders. He suggested just replacing it if I wished to finetune it a bunch. I'm not that good, so I'll keep it for now. I will get a full fork setup from Cogent and set those up for me in a week or two.
-
A few rides will soften it out a touch. You may have to step up on damping.
All loaded up it may be a tad soft, a little firmer with just you on it sounds like a good balance.
-
A few rides will soften it out a touch. You may have to step up on damping.
All loaded up it may be a tad soft, a little firmer with just you on it sounds like a good balance.
Honestly, you could write a book on how much I do not understand about setting up shock absorbers.
I knew the KLR's were severely "under sprung" so that in itself was a "Makes-sense" step I felt I could take.
-
I read about this air box snorkel thing which is said to be a pretty big air restriction. The trick is to simply yank it out of thereby significantly opening up the airboix to more supply...So I did. First, the seat and side panel need to come off. The side panel was already off, so the seat came off next with just two big screws
-
Then you simply wrestle the snorkel out of the airbox. It is almost completely inside the box and hogs space up that could be used for plain old air volume
-
The muffler had this big old honkin' DB killer. I had noticed just how quiet the muffler was for a stocker. One little screw and the muffler got both lighter and louder. Now it booms out every cylinder pulse. There's a lot of power in that exhaust!
-
Next I removed the stock engine guard in favor of some proper crash bars
-
SRC Motorsports is one of two companies currently building crash bars for the Gen 3 KLR
They come well packaged
-
They are pretty robust. They bolt onto the foot peg mounts, to the front frame and to the front engine mount, and bolt together to form a complete cage
I am very happy with these. They even come with a couple of scuff pads for that eventual tip over.
-
Minus a good GPS, and its first oil change, the bike is ready to get out into the Daniel Boone National Forest
-
You could probably find another inner pipe and play with the noise by drilling some holes.
-
You could probably find another inner pipe and play with the noise by drilling some holes.
Now, that's an interesting idea!
-
Took me a min to find these. Used to use them on ATV’s to help with airflow but not allow all the debris inside the box. Simple hole and plug with little filter.
One point I had a Yamaha warrior with the hole air box lid covered with these
Might be useful
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/uni-filter-air-box-vents-p
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
These also popped up on my search. They look pretty awesome
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/kawasaki-led-auxiliary-light-set-p
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
These also popped up on my search. They look pretty awesome
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/kawasaki-led-auxiliary-light-set-p
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Those are pretty cool!
JR...I drilled a 1/2" hole in the "Bulb" end of that insert and popped it back in. Made a pleasing difference...Good idea!
So I have been test driving the thing around. It has the right spring for sure. I ride near the top of the shock, so I removed all of the preload, which helped some. I ride maybe an inch and a half down into the stroke, so by the time I add 50 lbs. of camping gear on the bike it should be perfect.
But
I am on my tippy toes, it has gotten so tall.
I believe I will need to take those "Lift links" from the shock linkage and go back to stock. It is my belief I should at the most be balls of my feet flat on the ground. Those links easily raised the bike an inch, so that will/should come back out.
I'll swap them back to stock and get another ride in. Oh, and the tires are Mucho-Bueno so far!
I am just beginning to see it, but when the front and the rear suspensions were both much, I was riding a mushy soup. Now that the rear has "thickened up" I see a bunch of play in the front I did not notice before. Meaning: I will need to add the appropriate springs in the front fork tubes as well, so that's the next project.
-
I picked up some JNS Engineering lowering foot pegs. These units are solid mounted unlike the rubber-mounted factory units, a feature I would have liked to keep. They move the rider's feet 1.5" lower and 1" aft of stock. That is just perfect for me. With boots, I was pretty crowded to the factory shifter and I felt my knees were a bit too tall in the saddle
Configuring a bike is a completely subjective personalization to get the factory machine to fit you better. I have raised the suspension, stiffened the rear spring, raised the handlebars 1.5", and now lowered the foot pegs 1.5". Going for a short ride today after modification, I have to say, I am really getting this bike to fit. I sit upright and tall in the saddle and centered over everything. The shifter fits better and the brake, is, well OK I guess, as I seldom use it.
Here's what comes in the package:
-
Easy to see the much lower and more compact placement of the foot pegs
-
They are pretty robust. I have experience with these. Some may remember bolting a set onto my DR-650 Suzy
-
While I was crawling around and getting greasy, I popped off the lift links that jacked up the rear until I was tippy-toed and bolted the stockers back on. Since the suspension only sags a little when I pop on now, the bike did not need to be sky-high tall. I can now almost flat-foot and tossing on 70 odd pounds of camping gear will level it out just fine, I think.
I used blue Loctite on everything since they will be more prone to loosening due to vibration, especially since there is no longer any rubber dampening
-
Nice they still sit above the frame but what about that little support? Not needed with non rubber mounts?
-
Nice they still sit above the frame but what about that little support? Not needed with nonrubber mounts?
No, not needed. That was the limit to keep from tearing the rubber bushings out of the mount...for high loads like standing on the footrests. Solid mounts no usey.
-
Put a good solid 120 miles of back country KY roads this afternoon.
I took it easy for awhile but in the end I was bending it down in the corners and riding it like I stole it.
The new shock spring is now showing me the rest of the bike wiggling around in hard turns with bumps. I will need to address the front forks for sure.
The riding position is now very good. The intake sound is now pronounced since the removal of the snorkel
It needs more power, say 10 RWHP will do it, so the 705 or 719 big bore kit just advanced on the list of "I wanna do" stuff.
The bike is great, if you don't mind waiting for the speedo needle to move clockwise. I guess, I don't mind so much. I would like the power to loft the front wheel in second, so maybe I'll go lookin for the ponies.
The Shinko tires work really well. When I'd hit a tar snake, it would slide a bit and then grab the pavement. I slid around on some gravel on the road, and it did so in a controlled manner.
Overall, I'm giving this bike high marks. With all the mods along with the cost of the bike itself, I am still thousands under the cost of a Temere700 or a KTM 890R, my other choices for a dirt oriented adventure bike
-
Sounds like fun. Less wight is HP too, so dump all the extra stuff when not in use.
10hp, sounds like a tune and intake work. It is EFI right
-
Sounds like fun. Less wight is HP too, so dump all the extra stuff when not in use.
10hp, sounds like a tune and intake work. It is EFI right
Yes, EFI
Adding just 5 hp to this bike is a challenge. But the overbores of the past were small, topping at 685cc A 719cc will be almost 100% more CC increase over the 685. Then some mid range cams will work better, and the next up valve size will seal the deal. 705's are putting down 47RWHP whereas stockers only put down 33-35. So almost a 50% increase. People that do it report a great running bike that still tractors up steep slow hills but can now hold with 70-75 mph highway traffic pretty effortlessly. Right now, I am pushing the top end of the envelope at 70 with very little left to wide open.
-
What about just a cam and tune? 70 seems a little slow really, no "get away speed"
Sue I haven't told you anything you don't know or thought about. But not having to tear the cylinder off and spend $$$?
-
What about just a cam and tune? 70 seems a little slow really, no "get away speed"
Sue I haven't told you anything you don't know or thought about. But not having to tear the cylinder off and spend $$$?
Ya, it's like Kawasaki purposely designed this motor to be a tractor engine with no real power. Not like other bikes at all, KLR's are really underpowered. Feels like a slow KTM 250